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  1. Good evening everyone, I think I have posted about this before but I am in need of help. A little background, my grandfather left my family around 20 cars or so but thanks to the neglect of my dad they have rotted in the warehouse. I am 18 years old and going off to college next year but have successfully restored a 1994 cobra from the same warehouse. I am based near Houston, Texas and want to make this car a drifting machine. I plan on engine swapping this car but I am unsure on where to start. I will include some pictures, I have started by removing the seats and other items from the interio
  2. Dear all My name is Roland - I am from Switzerland and I am restoring a 240Z (1972) from scratch. The car I bought in the US and like to make it as original as possible. For the restoration I urgently need a back panel for my Datsun. Is anybody out there who can help me? Please see my pictures attached Thank you so much for your help in advance. Cheers Roland --> The pictures show the actual situation which have to be repaired
  3. I currently have the stock 240z differential and I was looking to swap it for a z31 differential. Just wanted to ask you guys some questions. 1) would it be easier to rebuild current differential ninstead of swapping? 2) if I should proceed with swap what else would I need to modify or buy to install it, along side a 5 speed u currently have
  4. Bought a 85 300zx base model with 96k miles. Ran decently for 2 months until the tranny blew. When I drained her I saw multiple teeth, a washer, a screw and shavings galore. I couldnt find any worthwhile transmissions to purchase so I decided to cut out the middleman and attempt to rebuild it myself. I'm only 19 and have been working on cars for less than a year so I can definetly learn it but I need some guidance as to where I should look for learning material and if there is anything in particular I should know before I start dissembling. My tranny is already out and I split it from the bell
  5. I need help, im trying to restore a 240z. The engine I currently have is the original one but I was gifted a 5 speed transmission, l28 engine and Weber carbs. I just need help with assembly. I've been doing some research and I have a basic idea but here are some questions I have. Are the crankshaft and other pulleys interchangeable with current engine and new l28? Does fuel line material matter? Is there anything else I need to replace in order to complete the swap?
  6. Hello all, Before I go out and buy a timing gun, I was hoping to hear your thoughts on this short video clip. Finally got my 76 280z running and idling after finding a vacuum leak at the booster, but the idle is still really low, and I believe I hear it missing/bogging when accelerating ? idle adjustment screw seems to do nothing in either direction. New plugs, new plug wires, new water temp sensor, new battery, cleaned the injector plug connections, but that's about it. Thank you, Oscar VID_20190802_074213.mp4
  7. Looking for any tips/tricks to replacing the windshield rubber on my 71 240z. I have the FSM but was wondering if anyone who had actually done this repair had any tips or suggestions to help me out before I start
  8. I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank al
  9. What is the biggest tire you can put on a 240Z with Panasports 15/7 -0-offset WITHOUT RUBBING? Original OEM were 195/70 Currently I have 195/50/15 ZR and i want to go taller and wider....but dont want to rub.... Thinking of a 215/65x7, would love to go with 225/60/7 Changing rims is not an option. I like these.
  10. anybody have a source of plastic body plugs for an early 71 Z, have to fix antenna therefore remove plastic panels, plugs will break, hence need a source. Any info helpful. thanks
  11. I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.
  12. I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the pa
  13. Hey everyone, this is my first time posting here on the forums. I've poked around and read on here and a few other sites for a couple of years now and have finally gotten around to making an account. Majority of my problems I've been able to solve either by reading on here or in one of the manuals but I've come across a bit of problem. I own a 1981 280zx 2+2gl N/A 5spd, over this last weekend I started tearing the top end of my engine apart to have head work done. I have the car torn down at a friends house and his dad is really wanting the car gone so I need to hurry up, figure it o
  14. Update: Just want to thank everyone who has replied. I haven't fixed the problem but its great to hear other peoples opinions and suggestions! So i just want to start off by saying I am in no way an experienced mechanic. I am having a problem with my 1977 Datsun 280z and am willing to hear anyone's thoughts. So I haven't driven this car much. i bought it and it had a leak in the exhaust manifold. Since i had to take it all off i decided to buy headers. While removing the EGR tube, the tube was damaged so I decided to remove the EGR. I remove the EGR use a block off plate from a Z s
  15. Hello! Im looking at buying a 1975 280z. I found one for sale for $5500. Its a 75 280z with a 4 speed manual. 76000 miles on original motor. I got to test drive the car today. All of the gears work well, it shifts really smoothly and drives really well. Headlights and side lights were just replaced, blinkers work just fine. Gauges are all there and work. A/c isnt working but thats normal. Problems: 1. the driver seat is a little rough2. theres no carpet3. The car drives just fine up until about 3500 rpm and then struggles. Owner said he adjusted the timing and it helped a little but the proble
  16. 2 days ago I noticed that my switch on my right lever (that controls the headlights driving lights etc ) was a little "sloppy" which is the only way I could describe it , I would turn it to the driving lights only at it would not work until I gave it a little extra push and it would work just fine . Now my driving lights won't come on , my dash is pitch black and even if I turn them all the way until my headlights come on , still no driving lights or dash lighting . Any ideas ok where should I start ?
  17. Okay so I've been restoring a 75 280z and it's so close to being finished but for some reason my fuel pump won't kick in when the engine is turning over unless I direct connect a wire from the fuel pump to another wire source that is getting current. Is it okay to do this? If so, where can I hook it up so that it's safely getting enough power, isn't stealing too much power from something else and won't burn up any wires or create a huge electrical problem. Oh, also, where would I hook the negative side to?
  18. My problem happened after i replaced my alternator belt, my 77 (technically a 76 because of its production date) used to run at around 180-185F , now the norm is 210-230 or really close to over heating after a 7-11 minute drive and considering the weather in california is fairly cool/cold this problem is really weird to me. I already replaced the thermostat and its gasket (no luck) there are no leaks , other things that ive done to my car during this period where , an hks smf filter (mostly for looks) and replaced some worn rubber hoses that run across my intake manifold (which fixed my bad id
  19. Im looking for cast flattops to rebuild my 83 f54/p79, having a hard time finding ones that arent forged but I stumbled upon these. It says theyre for 75-79s but as far as I can tell those were the same as the pistons in the f54 block. Can anyone see any reason these wouldn't work or if I shouldn't buy from this source? https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/piston-set-of-6-pistons-l28-020.html?search=piston
  20. My l28 n42/n47 will be needing a bit of head work soon, specifically a valve job. Wondering if there is anyone located in Washington that has any recommendations for a shop to go to have this done in the near future, probably around January/February. Western Washington would be preferable, I'm located near Olympia.
  21. This little switch is located on the passenger side of my 73 on the far right, the wiring looks new, but I dont have a battery yet nor have I tried to hook one up to the ancient leads to see what it does..but it doesn't quite look stock. Does anyone have any idea what this is for? Additionally, that choke looking pull, there are about 3 of them on the driver side if I remember correctly. Have no idea what those are for either. I've never heard anyone mention these bits on the inside of Z cars nor have I seen them, or I wouldn't be asking.
  22. For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spar
  23. Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made po
  24. Hello, I have a 260z with the original engine. When i bought the car it wasn't running and so after changing the fuel pump, ignition system, and carbs (from flat tops to su carbs) I FINALLY got it to start up!! Only problem is that it is running at a very high pace, and releasing a lot of smoke through the exhaust now I'm no car expert as this is my first car project so i have an idea on what may be wrong but am not sure, so I wanted to see if any one could identify the symptoms on the video below (in link) and provide a solution to help me solve the issue before I dive in and try to figure it
  25. Hi everyone I'm currently restoring a '75 280z and am running into some problems with cleaning the gas tank. I've tried cleaning it with acetone and some bb's but for some reason I believe the fuel hose outlet is still clogged. Ive tried compressed air and pouring acetone directly into the pipe but cannot seem to get anything through it. This is my first restoration and Im faily new to the whole process is there any suggestions sort of taking it to a radiator shop or buying a new tank that I could try. Thanks!
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