Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,560 topics in this forum
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After driving my 280Z 500 miles this past weekend, I can honestly say I can't live with the 4 speed until the drivetrain conversion happens. Mine is in rough shape - 3rd gear whines like a tractor gear set, and in 4th, the shifter rattles & the whole thing sounds like it's gonna explode when I drive over 80 for any duration. There were a couple sprints on the way down & home where I got up over 90, and the car felt pretty good (I had previously felt the nose to be a little flighty at speed, however I think that is mostly the roadway I normally drive on - since I did not experience the same feel on the interstates going to Carlisle PA), but the trans, not so much. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 2 followers
- 7 replies
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Still sorting out my 280z after manual trans swap and r200 diff install. Transmission was rebuilt and diff was resealed after inspection (everything looked good). Upon first test drive when coming to a stop I can hear a rhythmic thunk/thump coming from the right rear of the car. The only thing that wasn’t touched in the swap was the donor half shafts so I rebuilt them with Japanese u-joints. Reinstalled them and still have the same thunk. The driveline is original but u joints seem fine (nice and tight). This *sounds* like a half shaft or driveline u joint problem but I can’t find any slop in any of them. Next step might be swapping the half shafts side to side …
Last reply by sboy79, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 204 views
Hey guys, I've got some replacement parts for the transmission, like a new shift fork boot and throwout bearing (now installed on the sleeve). I wanted to get all new bolts to reattach the transmission to the engine so I ordered them from ZCar Depot. I just want to give these guys a big public shout out. I got this E-mail: I think it was really cool that they checked it with me. I don't mind of course. Not like the bolts will be visible once it's all back together anyhow, but I know it might be an issue for some folks so it made sense for them to contact me to check. I just wanted to give them some recognition. Never had a bad experience with t…
Last reply by ArcticFoxCJ, -
- 6 followers
- 64 replies
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I'm getting back to installing an LSD in my R180 but I was concerned about the LSD heating up the differential during Auto-X. I drilled/tapped a hole in the fill plug for a temperature sensor but I also was looking into an alternate differential cover with extra volume and cooling fins. I located a family-run foundry operation that will do a one-off aluminum casting for $40 plus $3/pound so I designed one. Anyone want to comment on the design?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 7 followers
- 125 replies
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I have been rebuilding my differential for the last couple of evenings. It is a "K" R180 from the front of a Nissan 4X4 truck. From running it in my 240z, I know it was in good condition before disassembly. And, when I took it apart, I checked backlash and it was within spec. So, I don't believe it ever had been apart before. I purchased a Quaife LSD for it. I also purchased all new bearings and seals. For the differential case and the drive pinion shaft, I was very careful to install races and the tapered bearings, fully seating them in their correct positions. I also was sure to use the spacers and shims that were removed back in their origin…
Last reply by inline6, -
- 5 followers
- 26 replies
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Does anyone who knows more than me (which would be most) see anything wrong with this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/240z-oil-cam-spray-bar/283790259940?hash=item421337b6e4:g:0ccAAOSwcABeA7Cz My original is a little bent as I have seen in older posts. I could fix it I guess but would go this route in a heartbeat.
Last reply by Clay C, -
Vapor Tank Question 1 2 3 4 9
by chaseincats- 5 followers
- 96 replies
- 3k views
Hi guys, I'm honestly not sure which sub forum this was supposed to go in but here we are. Periodically I smell gas fumes in the car. One of the main culprits was the old-style hose clamps weren't sealing the hoses to the vapor tank well enough. I changed them to modern belt-clamps which helped a lot but not fully. I've been testing the leak by blowing in the hardline that connects the carbon canister to the vapor tank and scampering back there to sniff around (which is how I originally found the clamps were a problem) but I'm still smelling some fumes while driving so it's not fully fixed. At this point I can't seem to pin down the smell point and even …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 3 followers
- 23 replies
- 400 views
78 280Z 2+2 I finally got around to doing some more work on the Z, and for every step I take its almost as if its two steps back. Two days ago I changed out the engine/ecu harness because mine had virtually every clip broken. After I connected everything back up I started the car to verify it was running okay. Engine seemed to idle fine, rev fine. I did rev it once and it died when the RPMs settled, but it started right back up and ran fine from what I could gather. I shut the car down. I have not touched it since. Two days have passed. I go out to road test the car, and it wont start at all, just cranks. I will occasionally hear it try to …
Last reply by NocturnalEmber, -
- 2 followers
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I don't want to hijack the other thread on a R180 LSD installation. I have two photos attached on an LSD being installed. One from the internet from a Subaru that shows it just goes in nose first, is turned with two fingers, and slides into place. The other one is of my KAAZ LSD going in nose first and not moving beyond that position. The Subaru was replacing an LSD with another LSD while mine has never had an LSD. The ring gear almost clear the side of the housing. Are there any tips on what I need to do other than keep at it?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
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I don't see any other threads like this on here, so I hope this is not inappropriate. Honestly I don't care for the HybridZ website, so I don't feel inclined to post there much. This is my long term plan for the 280Z. A neighbor who is also an old car buff stopped by about a month ago, he told me his wife's uncle had an '06 350Z that wouldn't pass inspection in RI ( I had told him earlier that I was considering a drivetrain conversion at some point in the future). The car is mechanically sound, so having the entire vehicle for the cost of an used engine & CD009 trans of unknown pedigree made sense to me. My personal experience with buying JDM drivetrains has not …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
Hey all! I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel for my auto to 5 speed swap and just wanted some confirmation on driveshaft fit. After reading dozens of posts I assumed I'd need to either build or modify a driveshaft when going from 280z auto to zx 5 speed. I went to measure and test fit to see which of the 2 driveshafts (my original auto and the 5 speed zx 2+2 from the parts car) would be the best to modify and when I placed the auto driveline in it *appears* to fit! I took two pictures. In the first I have the driveshaft fitted. I marked the end of the slip joint collar on the tranny tail shaft and then removed the driveshaft in the second pic…
Last reply by sboy79, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 210 views
having a bit of an issue getting a knock sensor that will work with a 300zx turbo 1986 ecu and an L28et block. found a sensor from nissan but when I looked at the scope with it installed on the running engine I was getting all kinds of voltages that I would assume be problematic. My guess is the flat response vs resonate is the issue. Pretty sure the doughnut type I am using is a flat response type. the rc value was selected since the ecu seems to want a specific value to not set a code, there is a bias voltage that is dropped by this resistance. The r1 was selected as I assumed the lower value would pass more signal. The stock sensor in a L28et has…
Last reply by Dave WM,
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