Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I'm getting back to installing an LSD in my R180 but I was concerned about the LSD heating up the differential during Auto-X. I drilled/tapped a hole in the fill plug for a temperature sensor but I also was looking into an alternate differential cover with extra volume and cooling fins. I located a family-run foundry operation that will do a one-off aluminum casting for $40 plus $3/pound so I designed one. Anyone want to comment on the design?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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As the title states, I finally was able to start my Z up and let it run/drive it for the first time after buying it (brakes didn't work and neither did the clutch hydraulics; The car was backed into the garage so I didn't want to inhale exhaust fumes trying to let it run.) Now that it can run, change gears, and stop, I'm met with my next line of issues: - Car idles high warm or cold (1,500 rpm.) If let sitting while idling, randomly it will start to fumble and die unless you give it gas, then it generally will return to its high idle. - When driving, it feels like its misfiring a bit. It will respond to throttle and rev, but seems down on power and you can …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I'm restoring my dad's 1973 240z and since I'm doing the brake lines I might as well do the fuel and clutch lines. Here's my question. What is the difference between the 1972 fuel lines and the 1973 fuel lines. Buying a set it's a $200 difference, but when looking at clutch, return, and intake that adds up quick. The car has the round top carbs from 72. Can I run the 72' lines in the car or do I need to bite the bullet and get the lines for the 73? Car was manufactured in Sept. of 72.
Last reply by DocDavis, -
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The car: 1971 Datsun 240Z. Original motor, fresh rebuild (less than 2500 miles.) Original SU carbs freshly tuned, New spark plugs. MSD Hall Effect electronic ignition, Pertronics coil. Electric fans. Schneider Stage II cam and new springs. 6-2-1 headers with carb heat shields. 4 speed manual transmission. All smog components deleted. So, pardon the lengthy intro. Bought the car Jan of 2023. Fresh rebuild on the motor. Always smelled gas in the car, so after researching the forums, it seemed like fuel hoses were the place to start. Also I saw fuel dripping at the rear of the car. So I removed the fuel tank and all hoses and replaced said hoses because…
Last reply by Zooter71, -
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Are these two nipples joined by a hose? Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hey Guys, Every time I post on this forum it's due to bad news:( I really need advice on this one though from some diff experts. Decided to find the top speed of my car the other day and around 90mph the car started screaming from the rear. Luckily only about 2 miles from home so I limped it back. I took note that the noise was only under acceleration, and sometimes a slight grinding noise would occur. Ok, so I jacked it up, put on stands, and ran it in gear. Heard noise was from the differential. Drained diff fluid. Only about a cup came out 😭. I had a shop swap in this diff and transfer inner stub axles about 3 years ago. Apparently, they decided checkin…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Almost got stranded yesterday with a starter failure. Was able to bang on it with a hammer and get another start of of it. I’d just get one “click” when I turned the key. This is a remanufactured (AC Delco -premium) gear reduction starter. I love when they put crap like “premium” in the description….lies lies lies! I bought it on Rock Auto 27 months ago and as expected the warranty expired 3 months ago. With a little I drove this car it might have 100 -200 starts on it. This is the world we live in where stuff appears to break right after the warranty period as if they know this when the rebuild. My Toyota (OEM Denso) starter on my 08’ 4Runner is the origi…
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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I really need to change out the gear oil in my 5 speed transmission and differential. From what i can make out in the owners manual the transmission takes GL-4 and differential GL-5. I cant make sense of what weight oil i should use.
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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A while back, I heard that the original distributer cap was grey. Going off of that and a poor quality picture on BAT, I was able to find a grey YEC branded cap, but didn't know if it was close to the correct color. Today, I found a picture of an original Hitachi distributor cap: Putting that here for reference for others.
Last reply by DatsunZGuy, -
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Does anyone know of a shop rebuilding 5 speeds in the PNW? Close to Portland is preferred, but am willing to drive if there's someone who has a ton of specific experience with Datsun stuff. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by sboy79, -
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I have been rebuilding my differential for the last couple of evenings. It is a "K" R180 from the front of a Nissan 4X4 truck. From running it in my 240z, I know it was in good condition before disassembly. And, when I took it apart, I checked backlash and it was within spec. So, I don't believe it ever had been apart before. I purchased a Quaife LSD for it. I also purchased all new bearings and seals. For the differential case and the drive pinion shaft, I was very careful to install races and the tapered bearings, fully seating them in their correct positions. I also was sure to use the spacers and shims that were removed back in their origin…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I don't want to hijack the other thread on a R180 LSD installation. I have two photos attached on an LSD being installed. One from the internet from a Subaru that shows it just goes in nose first, is turned with two fingers, and slides into place. The other one is of my KAAZ LSD going in nose first and not moving beyond that position. The Subaru was replacing an LSD with another LSD while mine has never had an LSD. The ring gear almost clear the side of the housing. Are there any tips on what I need to do other than keep at it?
Last reply by grannyknot,
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