Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fuel pump'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Interior
  • Exterior
  • Electrical
  • Engine & Drivetrain
  • Fuel System
  • Exhaust
  • Body & Paint
  • Suspension & Steering
  • Wheels, Tires & Brakes
  • Z News
  • Technical Articles


    • Z
    • ZX
    • The New Z
    • JDM
    • 510
    • 240K Skyline
    • Roadster
    • History
    • Aftermarket
    • Racing
    • Concepts & Rumors
    • Shop Talk
    • Vendor Marketplace
    • Classified Ad Forums
    • Garage Businesses
    • Chatterbox
    • Feeds
    • Video Center
    • Regional Talk
    • Club Website
    • Technical Articles
  • NW Arkansas Z Car Club's Discussions
  • Maryland Z Club's Discussions
  • Midwestern Z Club's Z Chat
  • National Zcar Convention's Discussions
  • National Zcar Convention's Announcements


  • Zcar Events and Shows
  • Zcar Club Washington
  • Classic Car Shows
  • National Zcar Convention's Events


  • Wiring Diagrams
  • Microfiche
  • Service Documents
  • Brochures
  • Factory Service Manuals
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
  • Manuals
    • Owner Manuals
  • Website Support
  • CAD Files
  • Software Tools
  • Tech Articles
  • Club Graphics

Product Groups

  • Club Merchandise
  • Direct Advertising
  • Club Membership
  • Club Donations


  • For Sale
    • Cars for Sale
    • Parts for Sale
  • Want Ads
    • Cars Wanted
    • Parts Wanted
  • Completed Ads

Marker Groups

There are no results to display.

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



Real Name

Map Location


ZCCA Membership ID

About my Cars




Skype ID

Facebook Page

Zcar 1 VIN

Zcar 2 VIN

Zcar 3 VIN

Zcar 4 VIN

Zcar 5 VIN

  1. Hello everyone I had a question about voltage. I am a newbie when it comes to wiring and electrical but I did my research and read the forums. I have a 1977 280z and it looks like someone’s been in there trying to figure out the issue. Missing bolts etc. anyways with my multimeter I tested the coil and the resistor and voltage. the voltage was off.. well there was none with the key on the on position, testing on the first terminal on the resistor. so this is what I checked, I went to the battery and checked the cables those are good, car turns over. I looked at the wiring d
  2. This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug
  3. I searched a number of times, but couldn't find the answer to my simple question. When installing a mechanical fuel pump, how is the Permatex - "Permatex 85420 Permashield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Sealant", applied? Is it applied to each of the four hard surfaces? OR, each side of the two gaskets? Roughly, how much is used on each surface? Also, do I lubricate the pump before installation? Any help is appreciated.
  4. View Advert Refurbished Kyosandenki Fuel Pump A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks.


    Richardson, Texas - US

  6. I have recently taken ownership of a 1978 280z, original motor and everything. But, I am having a power issue with the fuel pump wiring. At the relay, I am getting 12V into the relay (the green/blue wire), but only about 3.4 volts out through the other green blue wire. My question is, is this a simple grounding issue, if so, where it the ground for the fuel pump exactly? I have looked at the wiring diagram still my eyes crossed and I have determined that the fuel pump is grounded inside of the ICM with a few other electrical items. So would my best option be to just cut the grounding off befor
  7. Hi, 11/70 Z converting from a mechanical to a electric fuel pump for my stroker with triple carbs. I have a couple questions on the wiring that I was looking to get some help with. I've consulted various different builds, threads and diagrams and am planning on wiring in a Holley Red Electric fuel pump. I have grounded the wire and the positive side will be going to a relay (which I have figured out already). My questions are firstly: Should I want the fuel pump to turn on when the key is in the ON position or the START position (Will it still be on if in the start position)? My second questio
  8. Hello guys! I'm new to this forum and recently new to the datsun world I purchased a 1981 280zx datsun that has been sitting outside a barn for about 4-6 years and since it still had the engine I decided to see if I can get it running before I even consider swapping the same l28e or if I get lucky the l28et. The first things I did was: change the oil, replace the fuel filter flush tank and replace gasoline (regular) replaced battery with terminals flush and replace coolant, spark plug wires (all in correct firing order) change ngk spark plugs (gap
  9. So, first post. Tried searching and couldnt find anything, even tried the all magical, Google, and still came up pretty empty handed. Ive been having an issue recently with my Z dieing while driving under normal conditions. However, I can put it in neutral, and about a 30-40 seconds worth of turning the key gets it fire back up. I have started with the easy and cheap stuff first. I replaced both the positive and negative battery cables and cleaned and checked the ground wire. Then I replaced the in line fuel filter that is before the electronic fuel pump, which was very needed. It was running
  10. Year/Model: 1978 280z I recently changed the original fuel pump to a compatible Airtex model. Before the work was done i had power to the fuel pump. After the install i went to start the car and I'm getting no power to the pump. I've chased wire from the pump, up behind the passenger seat, all the way to the fusible link and the battery. I'm thinking the issue MIGHT be the fuel pump relay. Is there any way that it could have been damaged in the process of changing the fuel pump? The first thing i did was disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to eliminate fuel in the lin
  11. Does anybody have a spare fuel pump relay for sale? part number 25230-79907 Thanks Shay
  12. Okay so I've been restoring a 75 280z and it's so close to being finished but for some reason my fuel pump won't kick in when the engine is turning over unless I direct connect a wire from the fuel pump to another wire source that is getting current. Is it okay to do this? If so, where can I hook it up so that it's safely getting enough power, isn't stealing too much power from something else and won't burn up any wires or create a huge electrical problem. Oh, also, where would I hook the negative side to?
  13. Rather than clutter up prior threads on rebuilding the Nikki fuel pump, let me raise this question: can a Kyosan Denki rebuild kit be used for a Nikki fuel pump? We have two great articles on the rebuild process, one from Arne in 2009: http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/fuel-system/rebuild-a-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump-r70/ and one from motivealloy in 2014 that is currently active: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50679-rebuilding-the-nikki-fuel-pump/ At least one of these articles stated the Denki diaphragm is "different" and will not work. The Nissan P/N for the diaphragm is disc
  14. I went into my garage to start up my car and it began to run,then the car just turns off and won't even start up anymore. We think it might be because of the fuel pump or the engine because when we try to start it up it will try to run for a while but the smoke isn't black it's more of a whiteish color. Another symptom is that the oil on the dipstick is of a chocolatey color, which means water. The car also misfires a lot. We asked a retired Datsun mechanic what would be the cause of this and he responded that water might have been going in the engine and that the year for the 1978 280z develo
  15. Hi all: First post, so go easy on me. I don't own a Z yet. But I'm going to look at one (a '77 280) that may become available for sale. Current owner says he let the car sit for a couple of years, and the fuel went bad. He drained the tank and refilled with good gas. The car will start, but won't run for long before shutting off. He says it starts right back up and then dies again. He and I discussed, and theorize that there is crud (probably rust) in the tank getting sucked into the tank outlet screen and clogging it. If that theory is right, I assume the tank needs to be c
  16. I am having problems with fuel pump pressure on my 240z. Can someone point out which is the best electric fuel pump for this stock carburetors? I was using a Carter P60504 and it only puts out 3 PSI. What will be the máximum PSI that both of these carbs will tolerate without overflooding the float valves. How much per carburetor?
  17. I am hoping someone has run into this before. I am swapping to DCOE45s from injection on #359550 '77 280Z - I bought an Advanced Fuel Products PN 56-012 fuel pump for carbed RX7s from BD. The outlet is M12-P1 parallel tread male stud - does anyone have a source of supply for, say - M12-P1 Female x 8mm barb fitting? or really any M12-P1 Female adapter to -6AN or 3/8FIP etc etc :stupid:
  18. Hello, it has been about a year since my last post. This car I bought was completely disassembled when I bought it. I am slowly getting it back together and I am not able to figure out where the fuel pump mounts to. There are two sets of holes going through the trunk area and it does not fit there and there are two holes going through the frame and it does not fit there. I have looked for photos of an original and have not been able to find any. I hope someone can show me a picture and help me out. Thank you for your time.
  19. My nice running '72 with 115k would not start one morning. Fuel was not getting to the carbs (SU-type) and the there was no fuel in the filter. Replaced the fuel pump without effect. Checked the fuel line and it was clear and unplugged. The engine starts with "starter fluid" but is not drawing fuel from the tank. I tried priming the system by adding fuel above the filter. This fuel drained OK to the tank. Carbs are "dry." My service manuals do not have a next step. Any ideas to try next? Thank you, RB
  20. I have a mid '73 240Z with an electric fuel pump in it, and it's not running. The pump is tested known good out of the car, there's just no power to it from the harness. The passenger footwell relay panel does not have any of the add-on relays for the electric pump nor are there any relays on the firewall by the heater fan like another diagram showed. I found the green wire that runs to the fuel pump on the large blue connector that connects the dash harness to the body harness, and the pump will run if I jump power to it off the battery directly, so the body harness and ground are fine. W
  21. We have been working on rebuilding a 1973 240z which we recently purchased and came across another puzzle that I was hoping someone else had experience with. We recently got the car running and took it for a test drive. After driving about five miles we stopped for anoint half an hour and then took off again. Almost immediately the car would buck and shudder any time we tried to accelerate. For a short time it would idle but then shudder and die under acceleration. We ended up towing it home. My initial thought was that the fuel filter was bad. We added some gas to the tank (just in case) and
  22. I have a '73 240z, stock. I finally got it to spark (see http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41386), and now I'm trying to get fuel to it. After a month of trying to get it to spark, I may have run all of the fuel through it. I put 5 gallons in the tank and cranked the engine for a good 2 minutes with no success. The fuel filter is dry. I looked in my Haynes and Chilton manuals. Each suggest that the '73 didn't have an electrical pump - only the mechanical pump up front. I crawled under and couldn't find an electrical pump, either. At least not an external one. I took
  23. Hello Does anyone know why only one set of points of my dual points 73 240Z automatic is sparking? Also, is it possible to try and get the engine running by using gas out of a bottle, since the fuel tank is being reconditioned? Thanks
  24. I currently own a 1978 280z. I recently replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and cleaned out all the lines and gas tank due to it running extremely lean reaching 4k RPM's. Now as i try to push the car harder into the 5k RPM range it starts to lose power and the RPM's drop then kick up then drop again. This has also been happening in any RPM range when ever i floor it. My thought is the new fuel pump is sending too much fuel(or not enough) and there isn't enough air getting into the engine because it has a stock air-box which i cleaned out in hopes of fixing something but I had no luck. Ill
  25. Hey I just bought a 1974 260z for $1200. Its in amazing condition for the price, no rust, good interior (original), original red paint with little oxidization, and new tires. I couldn't drive it when i bought it due to the fact that it was broken into and the aftermarket MSD ignition was stolen (why the price was low). But i figured if the 4 speed manual transmission was shot or the engine busted i could part it out for a decent profit. Well i bought the MSD ($189 at kragens) hooked it up and turned her on. The sound was amazing but before i could drive it she shut off. It wouldn't idle i
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.