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  1. Today
  2. Sorry to hear that! Must have been very scary!!! Glad the car is fine. I hate those filter type things as they invariably get “wet”. Here’s a photo of my set up (except I now run an airbox). If you look bottom left you will see my catch can. It’s a 0.3l cheap eBay one with two inputs and one output. The best catch cans (unlike mine) are baffled. The top of that filter can sometimes smell eggy - you can always route a pipe away from the top to somewhere in the engine bay where it doesn’t matter. Also note the home made heat shield that works amazingly in keeping the carbs cool and divert
  3. The quality of replacement carpet from stockinteriors is good also.
  4. Finally got some new photos! The painting of the engine bay went smooth. It’s nothing permanent, but at least it will all be one color now :)
  5. Ha, that makes sense and honestly it never crossed my mind! (Not here fishing for compliments. Just dense sometimes.) I always like talking to other people about their cars, but who did the work seems to rarely come up.
  6. Orange classic 72. But he has urethane on the front. Somebody tell him. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-183/
  7. Actually my bad, I am getting Cusco for the front with the tri bar option from T3. and T3 Tri bar for the rear. Before my sway bars upgrade, the rear end of my car would wobble really bad coming out of a turn. I got ST sway bars and the problem went away. I am sure there is some flex going on that I just can't feel but it's nice to know strut bracing will make a decent difference.
  8. Yesterday
  9. That would be cool but I was thinking several tire calculator links could be posted in the same article all in one place Options, ya know...
  10. I think it was a short bolt. The bolts in the end are the long ones it appears because the intake flange is thicker there compared to the inner ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Mike

    battery chargers

    I run an Optima red top battery and use their matching charger. It's nice because I installed a quick release directly to the battery and this unit is a small footprint with a tough casing. https://www.optimabatteries.com/products/chargers/digital-400
  12. Saturday the Colorado Z Car Club (Denver area) had an autocross at a Sheriff's training center where there is a nice asphalt area...they even provided the cones for us! I hadn't driven an autocross in about 22 years. My 280ZX has fairly new all-season tires, as they were about the only thing I could find in the original size, but what the heck. I aired them up to 39 PSI all around and had at it. There weren't many cars there - about a dozen - so we all got in plenty of runs. I had about 8 runs. It was a tight course, and I ran the whole thing in first gear, but that wasn't all ba
  13. Also some copper to back the hole Helps close them up too. Mind that the copper gets hot very quickly!! Do you not have a metal shop that can brake a section like that for you? I would consider replacing that or at least the worst sections. By the time its clean there wont be much metal left. Several years ago I would have chased those holes. I have come around to the idea that it's overall just easier to get rid of that rotten metal and the chassis is stiffer for it
  14. Lots of tuning to go! But she is alive IMG_3354.MOV
  15. View Advert 1988 300ZX NA for resto or parts Car needs bodywork. GLL model with digital dash and leather seats. Doesn’t run but sputters with starting fluid. I suspect old fuel. Advertiser SurferD Date 07/26/2021 Price $2,500 Category Cars for Sale Year 1988 Model
  16. There are both very affordable reproductions and not that much more expensive OEM ones available from all the usual vendors. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o02e01
  17. I'm sure i got a set of 4 bumperretttes in good used state.. i sold one set some years ago local for 250 euro.. excl. shipping let me know if your interested.. (mind.. i'm in europe..)
  18. On mine, the serrated washers were missing their teeth completely as they had been washed off with British weather over 40+ years. The moustache bar used to clonk going over bumps or undulations in the road when accelerating. As they are NLA, I used some 9mm and 3mm washers (60mm OD, 24mm ID -22mm if you want a very tight self centring fit) to make my own version. NEVER a clunk since and I’ve been pushing very hard. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-pick-own-size-Solid-Neoprene-Rubber-Washer-Washers-3mm-thk-upto-60mm-dia-/262163888110 I think the engineers put them there for a very good re
  19. I actually spent more time installing a couple of lights in the garage than I did working on the car. Since I had to do the install with the garage doors open, it got pretty warm in there today. However, I now have good light over the engine bay, so I think that will be to my advantage going forward. The overnight bath in EvapoRust was good for the steel parts of the float bowl. After taking the parts out of the bath, I put them in a bath of fogging oil. I put the new valves in the float bowls and installed the floats and the vents. The lids are secured with new gaskets. I orde
  20. door latch was seized and would not latch or stay closed... needed to take whole latch out and lube it like mad.. hard job as needed to take window from out to do this.. still working on re assembling door..
  21. I found the time to pull the lines out of the box of hardware. Here's what I have: The line which is attached to the compensator is the NOS (new old stock) one. It is series 1, or per the parts manual up to 9/1971. The line just to the left is one of two that came with the car. Other than the bend towards the top, it looks like the same part as my NOS one. The line at the right in the pic is the other one that came with the car. It looks very similar to the correct series 1 line for the front circuit, but it won't line up with the correct master cylinder as is. It woul
  22. Last week
  23. Thanks @Zed Head Update: I was able to push the 12mm bolt thru what I believe was gasket sealant. For the upper 10mm, I had an extra bolt that I ground to a point. That one pushed right thru the sealant too. All's well in Seattle again. Thanks much as always for the support! JH
  24. Hmmm, I was always under the impression that tube was one-piece and soldered (to seal the tank) at the plate it goes through. The plate is soldered to the tank itself. IF the tube is 2-piece, and if it's swiveling at it's solder joint at the plate, it also has to be "disconnected" from to the second piece that remains unmovable while you're twisting the exposed feed tubing. If it's soldered (supposed to be soldered) to the pickup tube inside the tank which does not move, that solder joint is broken also - either that or the tube itself is cracked or broken. Most fluid pumps don't work well if
  25. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm
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