- Past hour
Those look like they would clean up very well. With plated hardware and a vapor hone. 🙈
I think there are rubber isolators between the carb and the manifold, check them out and make sure there are no leaks.
Nothing stands out too much, make sure the head/manifold gasket is not restricting airflow.
I recall the clamps I used were 6-7mm, (used braided hoses).
While waiting for a few small parts, I decided to redo the Lighter and Hazard Switch mounting. The rear mounting bracket made the hazard switch stick out about 3/8" of an inch too much, showing a lot of the brass threaded stem above the spanner nut. The lighter socket fits fine, but the switch bracket needs to be pulled back away from the dash to have a solid flusher mount. I saw this link which talks about the same problem and fix. First, I cut the bracket with some tinsnips, and after drilling a new hole for a sheet metal screw, and bolted the lighter half back in place and mounted the lighter socket.
I rounded up some spacers for underneath the bracket, add added some washers to the stem so it seats against the back of the dash. I also added a washer beneath the spanner nut so it doesn't twist directly against the new dash material when tightening. Not sure if the factory had one there, and mine was missing, but it seemed like a good idea. Used my snap ring pliers for the spanner nut, not the best tool to use, but it worked. Got a longer M5 screw and drilled another hole for the sheet metal screw.
Mounted back in place. It does feel more solid too.
I decided to create a new topic to continue the discussion regarding factory undercoating and whether primer / paint was used or not.
I understand and it makes sense that the factory may have done different things over the years with regard to undercoating so all I can really present and comment on is my 5/72 240z.
I would really like to see what @Carl Beck, @26th-Z, @bluezand others think about what I am seeing with my car, relative to what has been written and thought about the topic over the years.
My car is a 5/72 240z. It has original 918 orange paint that is in excellent condition. The car shows approximately 24k miles and in every way that I can think of reflects that number.
I am refreshing the car but am preserving the original exterior paint and pristine original interior.
The car was stored for decades after having a blown head gasket. This probably saved the car and preserved it.
I am refreshing everything else- engine, everything under the unibody, rubber, etc. I have refinished the engine bay and front unibody that the fenders, hood, valence, etc mount to.
I am currently refinishing the floors and underbody behind the floors.
My car has what I believe to be factory tar undercoating top coated with 918 orange (though thinly top coated). It is what 26th-Z describes as a "thicker textured paint finish".
In my opinion this is a typical tar undercoating with lots of texture, top coated with the same paint used on the exterior- in my case 918 orange.
My eyes and experience with stripping the undercoating tell me that what is beneath the tar undercoating is nothing but galvanized metal. I can remove the galvanization mechanically or with acid. This coating, to me, doesn't behave like a primer or paint and doesn't look like it either to my eye. It won't come off with aircraft paint remover. It only comes off with a wire wheel or acid.
Here are some photos that I hope show what I am seeing.
This is the floor before stripping. I used a heat gun and a putty knife to remove the "painted tar undercoating".
The photo below shows what the painted undercoating looks like when removed. The painted side is painted. The tar undercoating portion is what I know tar undercoating to be. And, there is no primer or paint on the underside of the tar undercoating (the black side). It is just black tar undercoating.
The photo below, to me, raises the most questions. To my eye, the left side shows what I now see all over my floors and tunnel- a mixture of bare metal and galvanized metal. Clearly the transmission brace is bare metal. The tunnel surrounding, to me, shows a galvanized / electroplated sort of coating. To me, this doesn't look like and it doesn't behave like a primer. Aircraft paint remover does nothing to it. The only way to remove it and make it look like the transmission braces is to either wire wheel it or treat it with acid. Am I seeing this wrong? Is it really some milky looking super thin primer?
The right side shows the painted undercoating. What I see where the undercoating ends and metal begins is painted tar undercoating where my tool has, at the edges, scraped away some of the paint leaving only black tar undercoating.
So, I am interested in what Carl, 26tth-z, bluez, and others think. Please let me know if I am wrong about what I am seeing. I truly want to know, and I want others to know, how at least the 1972 (or maybe just the 5/72) cars were delivered.
I also have a 10/71 1972 240z in Silver. It is not at all close to the condition of this car....but have seen the same where I have removed some painted undercoating in the past.....though all of it has now been refinished to preserve the metal.
Great info, thanks for the clarification.
Me too. It's my favorite house plant.
Thanks Carl for sharing that information. Unfortunately I was just a toddler, so I missed out! it would be something special to have that poster collection now.
Laughing a little bit to myself here about the display you describe, because there were probably very few US customers who even understood what rallying entailed. Most probably asked themselves why on Earth would they ever want to off-road their brand new Z, ha! Times have changed- today, everyone wants an SUV.
I know of no replacement for that screen but others might.
Yes, some of us install an in-line fuel filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump to protect the pump. I use Wix filters but I think the Fram G3 filters are the same. I think I use wix 3302 (5/16 hose fittings) for a 240z and 3303 (3/8 hose fittings) for a 280z. I replace the filter each year.
I got most everything back from powdercoating and started assembling the struts. New bearings, seals, KYB inserts and brake hardware. I ran into two issues.
1. Powdercoater must have dropped one rear strut and dinged the threads for the stut gland nut. Should have left the old gland nuts in the struts. I played with it for a while and a friend was over that was headed to a machine shop to get something done, so I handed it to him to drop off. I hope it can be chased, because I have a lot of time in the rear bearings!
2. On one front strut the caliper was barely scrapping the rotor on the outer edge. I thought that I didnt seat a bearing race completely, so I tore all back apart and races were fine. I tried another caliper, and it is the same, so I am thinking the rotor (Centric) is a little too thick. I noticed the other rotor appears out of round. I may have them turned or try a different brand. It just barely scrapes. Both rotors measure very close to the same dimensions. Weird.
I also hooked up with 240 rubber and got some goodies in the mail today. Glad it worked out as his stuff looks nice and only took a couple of weeks once we got the order settled.
I saw on BAT where a very nicely restored 73 240 sold for $88,888, so that justifies a few orders for me 🙂.
Thank you for your very kind comment Guy. Cheers
I was at work all day, looks like Steve answered your question. The earlier cars had this long pig tail box and the later 240's had a shorter pig tail. You'll see which one you have I am not 100% sure when that change was made. Same principle though. If your fuse box has melted terminals (common) the up grade is a good idea.
Just acquired a 78 2+2 myself. Have you been able to find a source for 2+2 body panels? I'm looking for rear lower half of the quarter panels myself. I knew 2+2 parts were going to be challenge, but didn't realize how tough.
I did my hood emblem with those. Quarter sides may be different? Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.
I've took advantage of the weak British pound and purchased some leather interior parts from the UK. I installed the door covers this past weekend and will do the center console next with the dash sometime this winter.
The leather panel cover looked plain so I added some quilting to it using a sewing machine I barrowed from the library and 1/4 and 1/2 inch foam. The panel looks OK but I need to try and get some wrinkles out with some heat and leather conditioner. I also need to get the door latch straightened out and find a replacement plastic chrome piece for the top of the door pull. (Anyone have a used one they want to part with?)
Evaporator Bracket no. 3:
This one was a MF to get done, and I’m still not 100% happy with it. I would change a couple of things about it if I were to do it again, but I already have too much time invested and it’s doing the job well enough.
Overall, I think this series of brackets is the right approach vs using the flat bits they provide, but the geometry is ever so slightly off on all three of them due to minor differences between the real evaporator and the mock-up. don’t get me wrong, the mock-up made it way easier, but I wish I had a CNC machine so I could take the next step and make these in aluminum and tweak the angles to fix the errors.
The evaporator is a few degrees off from square on the yaw axis, which is why it was hitting the glovebox. It could also stand to move forward about 1cm and down the same amount.
Not bad for hand made and rough measurements, though.
You can see where the original bracket they provided with the mock-up evaporator was scratching the paint. The one of the actual evaporator is just as in the way, so I deleted that entirely. It is unnecessarily tall.
- Last week
It sounds like they're making guesses based on pics? Part numbers are updated where its a different part with a new part number(is what Japan have told UK importer). They're waiting to be told what would fit etc.
Looking at it, the section to change, would be simple to fabricate to use the r180 diff cutouts in factory style.
Seems like we'll get there between the pair of us.
Most of the heavy rain went East of us. It rained hard last night and we had some wind but nothing too bad, thankfully
The previous owner of my Z thought it was a brilliant idea to "clean" all the emblems, holes and other stuff from the body. so this is what my hood looked like:
For reference, this is what it should look like, with the two holes to install the Datsun Hood ornament (my spare hood shown):
So i got to work and marked and drilled back the holes in the original location:
The result turned out perfect (ornement not pushed completely in in th ephoto, so i could remove it again, but the the holes fit perfectly)
I also gave it a layer of primer, to protect the holes from rust, until it gets a proper paintjob. Ok i know the area was a bit of an overkill 🙂
Datsun Z Shifter w/ new Bushungs
For Sale: Datsun Z Shifter with New Bushings
Part Number: 32841-N3101
Service: 12/73 on
Condition: Looks like new
Price: $25.00 plus shipping
Parts for Sale
Well I've been driving for over 55 years and I don't even know HOW to spell rheostat!
Clearly, the obvious best solution, and one I would have pursued were I not machine-tool disadvantaged. But then, the situation with press-fit gears on the spindle shafts has been previously well addressed.
The core issue of this thread is the symptoms of failed pick-up coils, the potential dire consequences in the event of their non-performance/failure, the complication of diagnosing such a non-performance/failure, and the current difficulties in sourcing properly operating replacements.
Bottom line, beware of Standard Products' replacement pick-up coils, and of Rock Auto's lack of due diligence in distributing products that are well below an acceptable level of performance.
As consumers, we should demand better.
Just $.02 from the cheap seats.
Went on a memorial cruise for a local car guy a few weeks ago and just found this photo posted. Nice photo of my car.
Eons ago, I road raced British cars with SU's and learned a lot about tuning them for performance. Hitachi's are just the same and I would say if you wanted to play carburetor tuner, the Hitachi's would be fun and simple. Read some SU tuning books. You can get a lot out of a set of Hitachi's.
Haha funny stories.. My 240z once had 7-8 owners in half a year!! (or so.. if I.R.C. ) This was back in the early nineties, in the States.. haha it had a terrible floor and a lot of people fell for the nice red color of this turd! I got some paperwork that came with it and on it are A LOT of names!
After that it was bought by a firm overhere in the Netherlands for peanuts i guess and someone bought it but never repaired it, then in 1998 i bought it and in 2000 i got it a licence plate and drove it, now for about 30000km or so..
Take a look at the headlines during Years 1963 - 1970. Those were heady times for Nissan and the Japanese auto industry. New models introduced. New assembly plants started around the world. New car transporter ships being launched and new harbour facilities built to service them. New headquarters building constructed. Motorsports entries and victories. New sales records set.
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