Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'problem'.
I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching my clutch fork and still I'm having the same issue. System has been bleed completely and I cant take anymore away from the shank on the slave cylinder. Later I will try adjusting the clutch pedal from under the dash see if that gives me any improvement. Any advice or suggestions would help thanks for the read!!!!!!
I've been trying to diagnose this problem for a while now and I'm stuck now, so I decided to post on here. vehicle: 1982 280zx non-turbo, automatic tranny here is the problem: My car will turn on (initially). I mean all the way to the on position and the dash will light up. I can hear the fuel pump, etc. Once I turn the key to the start position I hear one click and the the dash turns off and the volt meter on my dash goes all the way down. When I put the car into the on position (after attempting to start it the first time) the dash doesn't turn on and the voltmeter (on the dash) goes all the way down again. I tested the battery 12.6V when I checked the volt drop between the pos post on the battery and the battery cable it dropped almost 12 V. The only way that I have been getting it to start is taking off the neg battery cable for a while (I think to reset the ECU). after I wait like 10 seconds, I can put my car into the on position and the dash will light up again. When I try to start it, it sometimes kicks over and the engine will turn and idle at about 800-900rpm(nothing to do with temperature I dont think). But as of now, this trick does not work. what I know: new battery new starter alternator seems to be weak (haven't tested it because I can't start the car.) any help or guidance from a seasoned z car owner would be much appreciated. Thanks!
I'm a new owner of a '71 240Z; I've posted on here a couple of times. While the car was in the process of restoration by the previous owner there were periods of long sitting and I am getting everything up to snuff. To help others help me here's what I've done so far: - Rebuilt transmission with new gaskets, bearings, synchronizer rings, and oil seals. Temporarily refilled with synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 (ouch; I know now), now has Red Line MT90. - Replaced clutch friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder - Replaced distributor cap, rotor, O-ring, breaker points, condenser, and ignition coil with OEM-spec Beck Arnley parts - Replaced plugs and wires with NGK BPR6ES and NGK wires, gapped per FSM specs - Dropped fuel tank and had it boiled at a local radiator shop; replaced fuel filter and am currently running a can of cleaner additive through with premium-grade fuel - Disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt carburetors with the aid of the ZTherapy rebuild kit and video - Checked dwell, measured at 37 degrees, timed at 5 degrees (second notch from bottom on crank pulley when viewed from passenger side) with electronic multi-function light I'm now driving the car daily to and from work, ~40 miles round-trip. I do my best to keep the engine in the 3000 to 3500 RPM range while driving. The car starts well with the now-functional choke, but the choke/fuel nozzle assembly sticks and I'm planning to re-adjust and calibrate this weekend. I know that I've got an exhaust leak under the hood where the twin pipes meet the manifold; it's missing the flange gasket which I've ordered and will also be installing. The rear hatch also doesn't seal quite right and the original bad gas made quite the odor in the car, so I usually drive with my window down. Although the blower motor/switch don't work the control levers are functional and I can get forced air venting through the ducts into the cabin. This week as I've been driving I've noticed faint white smoke rising from the hood vents (the car has a 280 hood on it.) This morning while making a left turn I also noticed the smoke entering the cabin through the blower vents. I have not noticed smoke from the tail pipe while driving, neither while under load or idling at lights. When I got to work I popped the hood and took a look. I know that I have coolant seepage around the thermostat housing; I'm replacing the thermostat, both its gaskets, and both radiator hoses. I also saw that the frame was wet where the radiator filler neck hose rests near the front driver's side of the engine bay. Finally, there was faint smoke/steam coming from the valve cover breather and where its hose connects to the air cleaner box. Removing the hose cause condensation and puddling of what appears to be oil. I do get some hesitation/lag when starting from standing in first gear. Once it gets past that point the car will accelerate fine up to highway speeds through the other gears. Deceleration, whether in neutral or gear, often includes one or several backfires or pops, I believe from the tail pipe. If you've made it through all of that you now know what I do. I've been doing a lot of reading and searching through the forums, but I still have a few questions: - First and foremost, what should I be looking at for the above circumstances? - What is the "best/proper" way of setting float adjustment? I do believe that I am running too rich. The video shows the float horizontal at .55 in. while I've read on here about holding the lid vertical and tilting while blowing in the fuel inlet to measure. I sent Bruce an e-mail; maybe they've been busy but I haven't heard back. - What are common locations for vacuum leaks? The car has a later N33 intake manifold on it with the corresponding emissions-control balance tube. However, no air pump is installed and there aren't any devices installed on the balance tube. Perhaps related, the vacuum tap on the front carburetor is not there. The hole is not plugged, but the residual broken tap appears to be in place in the carb. Instead, a line runs from the manifold vacuum tap to a three-way join, then a line runs to the distributor advance. Does it make a difference which location vacuum is tapped from? Are there any good images showing definitively what needs to be plugged on the balance tube? - The engine no longer has the coolant line running around the back (firewall end) from the manifold on the driver side to the three-way joint on the passenger side. Instead, the line runs through the manifold and is then capped, with a corresponding cap at the 3-way joint. I am planning to remove the residual line and plug at the thermostat housing instead to eliminate the dead zone; are there any problems with not running coolant through the manifold? The carburetor spacers don't have cut-outs for water flow. As always, all help is much appreciated.
Hey so ive got a 73 240 with the 72 SU's with the emissions removed vac lines on carbs capped. only engine mods besides carbs is 79 electronic distributor, and electronic fuel pump. Well when I start the car it idles around 800 but after about ten minutes of driving the idle works itself to 1500 and doesn't come down from that. A friend told me it was was probably a vacuum leak because sometimes wen i turn the car off the engine runs for a second, and my heater vents blow cold air and defrost blows warm, and you can kinda hear a hiss from the engine when i turn it off that i cant find anywhere.... so I unplugged and capped the distributor advance and the brake booster but neither helps. I also sprayed starting fluid all over suspicious spots like intake and hoses. and only around the the throttle shaft where it meets between the two carbs did it seem to make any idle fluctuation. maybe this could be the problem? warn out? any help would be greatly appreciated:)