Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '260z'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Interior
  • Exterior
  • Electrical
  • Engine & Drivetrain
  • Fuel System
  • Exhaust
  • Body & Paint
  • Suspension & Steering
  • Wheels, Tires & Brakes
  • Z News
  • Technical Articles

Forums

  • CAR TALK
    • Z Cars
    • ZX Cars
    • 510 Cars
    • 240K Skyline Cars
    • Aftermarket
    • Roadster
    • Racing
    • Fairlady
    • History
    • Concepts & Rumors
  • CLASSIC ZCAR CLUB
    • Chatterbox
    • Regional Forums
    • Video Center
    • Technical Articles
    • Club Website
  • SHOPPING
    • Vendor Marketplace
    • Classified Ad Forums
    • Garage Businesses
    • Group Buys
  • NW Arkansas Z Car Club's Discussions
  • Maryland Z Club's Discussions
  • Midwestern Z Club's Z Chat
  • Midwestern Z Club's Classifieds

Calendars

  • Zcar Events and Shows
  • Zcar Club Washington
  • Classic Car Shows

Categories

  • Wiring Diagrams
  • Microfiche
  • Service Documents
  • Factory Service Manuals
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
  • Manuals
    • Owner Manuals
  • Website Support
  • CAD Files
  • Software Tools
  • Tech Articles

Product Groups

  • Club Merchandise
  • Direct Advertising
  • Club Membership
  • Club Donations

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Z Cars
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
    • 350z
    • 370z
  • Other Models
    • 240k
    • 510
    • Skyline
    • Wagon
    • Trucks
    • Roadster
    • Sedan
  • Other Brands
    • Cars
    • Motorcycles
    • Trucks
    • Pets

Categories

  • For Sale
    • Cars for Sale
    • Parts for Sale
  • Want Ads
    • Cars Wanted
    • Parts Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype ID


Facebook Page


Real Name


Birthday

Between and

Map Location


Occupation


ZCCA Membership ID


About my Cars


Zcar 1 VIN


Zcar 2 VIN


Zcar 3 VIN


Zcar 4 VIN


Zcar 5 VIN

Found 67 results

  1. Hi Everyone, Completely stumped on this one. So my engine was running completely fine since it's first start about a month ago and then suddenly it just stopped working all together. I have spark, I have fuel pressure, and there is fuel in the carb bowls. I figured it's an issue with the carbs so I pulled them and cleaned them up + did the basic rebuild, but still no luck. Pretty sure I set the floats correctly, center shutoff to 0.5" from the machined surface, and power valve pickup 1/32", but when the bowls fill up it goes well above the dot in the viewing window. is this normal? I tried pulling the power valve to service it, but couldnt get it to crack open. Any tips here? Is there any way I can test the functionality of the carb other than trying to start the car? Just want to verify it is mixing fuel with air. Thanks!
  2. View Advert Refurbished Kyosandenki Fuel Pump A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 03/11/2019 Price $225.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  3. Time Left: 19 days and 6 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks.

    $225.00

    Richardson, Texas - US

  4. 240z70

    Quiet Muffler

    I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
  5. I'm working on my 12-'74 260z. the side door windows have everything I have seen online except the "Window Glass Roller Bumper Guide". This is just for the side to side movement and rattling. my problem is the front to back alignment when rolling up my window where i have to walk it back and forth with my hands on the top of the glass to make it roll up smoothly. I know I have to buy this part, but will it help me with my issue as well?
  6. 74 (early) 260Z, It turns over fine and will fire when started is engaged. As soon as the key is released it dies. I heard this may be the ballast resistor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I need to get this car winterized, but must get it to run again, before that happens.
  7. Up for sale is a 1974 Datsun 260z. Bought it two years ago with plans on fully rebuilding it to a period correct build. Like most stories, life got in the way and rather it go to someone that has the time and finances to get this automobile to proper running condition and be used. This is the best info I can give regarding the car.... Bought it from a man in Georgia and had it shipped up to NY. Original owner was in Tampa, Florida as per title history. 2nd owner rebuilt / refreshed engine to oem specs besides being bored out .20 over. Vehicle runs if you spray starter fluid on the intake. It is equipped with triple Weber carbs. Besides the usual maintenance that it will need, I believe it needs a bigger fuel pump, carb maintenance and reworking the throttle and choke cable. Otherwise, new tires and fluids. I don't see rust on the usual areas but I never got to dig around the car too much. Been busy working and never got to it. Now the business requires I pick up a truck, hence the car being up for sale. I can provide towing prices, just need an address. Vehicle is located in Oceanside, NY 11572. Best contact would be via email alex (at) realautodynamics.com Would like to get my initial money back, $8k for the car. Thanks!
  8. Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
  9. A whole hodge-podge of electronics available. Most pulled from a non-running 1973 260Z. If you see a part you like, but need more pictures to verify it's condition or plug configuration, etc...feel free to PM me. Prices listed do not include shipping, and all can be combined for shipping -- so the more you buy, the more you'll save! Seat Belt Interlock Unit, two available. Both in very good condition and both have the same plug configuration. $10 each; $15 for both. Voltage Regulator. Very good overall condition. $15. Transistor Ignition Module. Good condition. $15. Fusible Link Covers, two available. The clean white cover (left in the photo) is from MSA; the yellowed cover on the right is OEM. $3 each. Relays, multiple available. $5 each; $8 for any two; $12 for any three; $15 for any four. If you need a specific relay, feel free to send me a detailed photo of the desired relay and I will check if I have one. (I'm constantly finding new ones in my parts bins). Relay bracket, from the passenger footwell, currently pictured with several relays mounted. $5 (bracket only). Thanks for looking, and happy shopping!
  10. Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  11. My 1974 260z haa uad some difficulty starting. I read up and found the engine has a reset button so I tried this and it would finally turn over, after i had replaced starter and ignition switch, but every wire in the ignition system got so hot they started to smoke... I'm not going to pretend es and I have any idea what's happening. The car has an electrical points upgrade, and an ignition coil from a 240. Currently not messing with it for fear of burning all my wires completely. Please help!
  12. I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.
  13. Selling many cars and parts. This is just the start. There will be more cars and parts eventually added. So many parts and cars to go through. Some are merely parts cars and some are builders. These are pick up or buyer responsible for shipping. We cannot ship parts or cars to you. If you are looking for certain items you can call or message and we will find out if we have it or not. Very extensive collection of parts being sold. So your patience is appreciated. 1974 260Z $2000 Has 1/74 build date, 4 barrel intake, Holley carb, ceramic coated header, motor, Repairable car, needs work or use as a donor. No seats, some rust, small bumper 260, Orange color. 1972 240Z parts car $500 Has 9/71 build date, parts car or donor car. Rough and has rust. Has some interior. Still has usable parts and metal. Orange color. 1983 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 11/82 build date, mostly complete, w/ motor, 5 speed. Silver color. 1974 260Z $1500 Mostly complete, 4 barrel, 4 speed, w/ motor, has rust, builder or donor car for parts. 1979 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 5 speed, w/ motor, blue and silver color. 1978 280Z automatic $3000 Automatic, complete car, has air dam, rear spoiler, side skirts, headlight covers, better condition, may have minor rust. This car is in building couldn't inspect it completely. This was running when parked years ago and has sat. Black color. 1978 280Z $3000 5 speed, mostly complete, w/ motor, has ZX seats, air dam, fiberglass molded to body fender flares not completely finished, This is also in a shed and couldn't be fully inspected yet. Also ran when parked years ago. Gray primer color. 1974 260Z 2+2 $2000 Comes with another 2+2 parts car. Will post more info on this car later. Forgot to inspect it. 1990 Z32 $1500 has all parts, some removed, new set of headlight buckets, automatic, ran when parked, burgandy color. w/ title 1 Cartech style 4 barrel intake. These bolt to SU intake so you can run a 4 barrel. $125 1 set 1972 240Z bumpers $300 1 set of 1972 240Z front turn signals $150 3 Jim Cook Racing body kits / front fenders/rear quarters and whale tail, NO air dam. $1000 each. There will be more cars and specific parts added to this as we can sort though everything. It will take time to do this. We will try and answer questions as soon as possible. And will check for parts you are looking for. This is a huge collection assembled since the 70's and will require searching for parts. I will edit and update this as cars and parts are added. REMEMBER: We will not be able to ship anything. This is pickup or arrange for shipper to pick up for you ONLY. Also, these cars are not perfect and do have some rust, need repair, or rebuilt or used as donor cars to complete your projects. You can message here or call or text 423-457-2958 423-504-3237
  14. Hi guys, Just bought a 1973 with a re-done interior and center console in good shape. But there is an empty slot where the choke handle would normally be (car has triple Mikunis so previous owner probably just yanked it). Am out looking for Series 2 240Z choke assembly with handle and cables, wondering if anyone knows if the 260z choke assembly will also work - they look almost identical. Also, anyone know what is supposed to go over the holes to the right of the choke lever slot? Thanks
  15. Hi guys. Been a lurker here forever! Picked up a 74 last summer and haven’t had the time to sort it out. Anyone recommend a tech or mechanic in the LI or metro NY area? Car came with triple webbers but seem to be wired up or lined up wrong. If you spray starter fluid, she fires up and sounds pretty damn good. But the throttle and the choke seemed to have been routed at the same line by the previous owner 😑🤨. I own a business and really have not had any time to just sort out the damn thing. Any direction to a trustworthy guy that can take this job on would be much appreciated. -Alex
  16. This writing is not as technical as the majority of the content posted on forums. This is a personal account of my 260Z in a nutshell upto this point. If it were not for members of this forum my car would not be where it is today. Thus, I am very thankful. I hope that some of you get a laugh or some inspiration out of this story. You can also be critical of me as I am trying to hone my writing. Sometimes I just do not know what I am doing. I am spending a lot of money on my 260Z and there is no justifiable reason. Its money I have that I should be saving for the future or for my family, but strangely the car has called. The Z started as my college car 14 years ago and I have held onto it. I drove it regularly during that time going from school to home a hundred miles away, to the coffee shop where I studied, and to where ever I desired. It was the freedom of having a car; an American dream. I then went on to dental school and the largely original 260Z went to my best friend Rich’s backyard where it sat in the baking sun. My intent was to visit the car, cover it, or drive it. Dental school was way too demanding and the car was put to the back of my mind. Once I moved off campus a year later my dad and I went to Rich’s house. The 260Z had been my father’s car and he had loaned it to me as I needed my own transportation and he was at his wits end. The Z had broken down on him too many times. But when my father and I saw the car after that year of being in the open, tears welled up in his eyes. It had cobwebs, corrosion on the chrome and the paint was faded. That was all he saw, but all I saw was my car and its potential. It had not fared well, but there was nothing I could have done. My father would have preferred to get rid of it right then and there to start anew with some other car. I kept it and over the course of nearly ten years the car was used on and off and eventually it sat in a carport dormant and neglected once again. Layers of dust caked on its surface as I was too busy for the car. The 260Z was an eyesore and even more, a stab to my car enthusiast’s heart. I could not do anything with it and nor was I ready. It was blocked from my mind and the shear mention of the car from a family member put me in panic-mode. Sports cars had failed me in some way. I worked for a dentist that put himself before his patients doing too much work and at a sub-par level to fund his car hobby. I needed a break from having been obsessed with cars for so long. I also lived two miles from work so I rode my bicycle. My wife and I then had a newborn son and I was now the one at my wits end with the car. It was time to sell. I did all the necessary things to ready the car for the new owner; tires, fluids, new battery and a thorough cleaning. I still remember the day I started it up for the first time and drove it around the block. The wiggle needed to unlock the door, the finesse of the throttle, and the quirkiness of the four speed all for smooth driving. There was an understanding of this car I still possessed as though it had been on the road all along. What was happening? I was reacquainting myself with the Z from a better place in life. My wife said she had a buyer. Her father. Why? I thought. For his grandson. My son!!! I was crying. It would be at my in-laws in their backyard under a tarp. There was no way that I was going to let the little car be forgotten again. A new chapter was opened and the future was uncertain. I got reacquainted with cars and the car scene I had missed for so long. Life got in the way, but now I had a bit of time. Over the course of a year and a half I drove the car, made improvements and realized that this was my car. I have had the pleasure of driving many sports cars, but the 260Z fit me better than the rest. If I could describe why that is I would. Years of this car’s existence has been in dormancy. Prior to my father and me owning the car it sat in a garage in Wisconsin for seventeen years. My dad resurrected the car respraying it in the original color, new bumpers, new vinyl seat covers, and a set of 72’ SU carburetors. The history of the car is now changing and there is no turning back. As a college student I searched the internet and Japanese car magazines to come up with my idea of the ultimate Z. That idea was always there and now with the help of a highly skilled mechanic it is becoming a reality. I only wish I was the one doing the restoration, but with a carport, few tools, and no time outside of work and family I have placed this project in the hands of Rob Fuller at the Zcar Garage. My vision is to build the 260Z into something largely original down to the colors and the appearance of the engine bay. Underneath will lurk a beast. The engine will be a 3.0 liter built by Rebello, TechnoToy coil overs, a Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust, and a Datsun competition interior (driver's bucket seat, steering wheel, and shift knob). Much of the inspiration of my car is from a silver 72’ Fairlady Z in Japan owned by Dr. Suzuki. Exteriorly the only modifications are the ride height, Watanabe wheels, factory headlight covers, and the exhaust. Earlier I mentioned that I don’t know what I am doing and why I am placing so much effort and money into this car, but it has everything to do with my lifelong passion for sports cars. Since the time I can remember I have been afflicted with the car-bug. What is it that excites car enthusiasts? The sound, the speed, motorsport, the sleek lines of a sport cars? All of that I am not sure, but the persona of me the driver and the driving experience is what attracts me most. I have a passion for nearly all cars and to say I am a Zcar guy would be wrong. This Z encapsulates all cars in some unexplainable way and I can’t wait to share my passion when its finished. This writing has been long in the making and my story of the car will continue. My goal is to put as many miles on the 260Z as I possibly can. I ultimately want to do a cross country road trip with my son for the 50th anniversary of the Z. Thank you all for the knowledge and inspiration and I will keep you posted on my car’s progress. Sincerely, Ben inkbendental@gmail.com
  17. Variety of S30 interior parts and pieces available, all in very nice usable and functional condition. Prices do not include shipping. Storage Compartment Lids, two available. $15 each; $25 for both. SOLD Brake Boot Lever, MSA brand. $9. SOLD Radio Mounting Bracket. $5. Glove Box Door. $20 (door only; the glove box itself is sold). Glove Box Lamp, good working condition (two are pictured, but only have one available.) $5. Heater/Defroster Center Console Panel, two available: $40 and $15 respectively; or $50 for both. Both SOLD. -- The first one is in very nice original condition. Map light works; Seat Belt lamp works. Plastic and vent controls all in excellent condition. $40. -- The second panel is in ok condition, but has been slightly boogered up over the years. One of the vent control tabs is broken and the warning lamps panels have both been drilled for aftermarket indicator lights. The map light works well. $15. Thanks for looking!
  18. Heater blower assembly from 1973 260Z. In good physical condition, no damage or rust, fan spins freely, defroster flap operates smoothly and securely, bellows still soft and pliable. Blower works, but doesn't seem to be pushing air at full force like it should. May be compatible with other years if you have similar plug configuration. Includes the connecting "mini-harness" and cable for defroster flap as depicted. $15 Multiple heating and ventilation bits and pieces. All in good usable shape, moving parts function smoothly. $5 each, or $45 for the lot. Prices do not include shipping. Thanks for looking.
  19. If you live in Maryland, lookup the club on Classic Z Car Clubs and if interested check us out on the web and join us. http://www.mdzclub.org/joinus.cfm If you join, select "Internet Site" and list ClassicZCars.com in the comments as "How did you hear about us?"
  20. I need some help. I have fiddled with cars for the past 5 years but it has mostly been on newer models, like jeeps and broncos. mostly suspension and body work. i recently bought a 260z. it runs and drives fine but it smells really rich driving down the road. it doesn't bog down or loose power at any rpm. i never really messed with carbs before. i Have a haynes manual and i tried fiddling with the air fuel mixture screws but it didn't really do much. I like to think if i tuned it right i can get some more power out of it. also i wont be choking on fumes. Side note i bought it in colorado and brought it back to new mexico. should i re-jet it? if so it didn't tell me how. Any other sources i can look into for Carb adjustments. (also i do know about the exhaust leak)
  21. Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
  22. Hey guys, I need new coilovers at all 4 corners. Regardless of the fact that I have no idea yet which ones to get, I need a few questions answered: Where did you take your coilovers + strut tube to have them welded together? (do I need a specialty shop or what?) How much did it cost to weld all 4 coilovers? (I plan on taking them the new coilovers + disassembled part) What do I need to provide to the shop to have the job done? (which OEM parts, what kind of info do I need to provide in terms of ride height, etc.)
  23. Greetings - new member here. I realize this is like looking for the proverbial needle in a haystack, but I'm on a search for a 260Z my Dad had way back when. Any tips or ideas on how I might go about tracking it down? I do have the VIN, and it would have been titled and registered in Ohio (Warren county) in the late 80s/early 90s. VIN is RLS30041502. I've also posted the only pic I have of it, though it's mostly in the background. Still, it shows the original color, and the interior was a dark tan/light brown as I recall. Look forward to any guidance any of you might have. -Thanks
  24. So, first post. Tried searching and couldnt find anything, even tried the all magical, Google, and still came up pretty empty handed. Ive been having an issue recently with my Z dieing while driving under normal conditions. However, I can put it in neutral, and about a 30-40 seconds worth of turning the key gets it fire back up. I have started with the easy and cheap stuff first. I replaced both the positive and negative battery cables and cleaned and checked the ground wire. Then I replaced the in line fuel filter that is before the electronic fuel pump, which was very needed. It was running the best it ever was, I let it sit in my driveway and run for half an hour to make sure all was good. Went out for a drive and about 10 mins in, it died again. My next guess is the fuel pump relay, maybe that is causing my issue? I checked the two relays under the passenger glove box and the bigger one looks to be in bad shape. I am no expert but this looks pretty burnt??Also, I noticed that the previous owner was messing with these because the black w. white stripe wires were spliced together??
  25. I haven't been able to post on all the z forums I think this is the last one lol. I picked up a 1972 240z with Jim Cook Racing California Z body kit on it. This car was completely restored in 1981 by the first owner, I picked it up from the second owner who drove it from 83-93 and left it garaged since. I vacuumed out the rats nest, gave her a good wash today after 25 years of dust, did an oil change(so black and reeked of gas) wiped down all surfaces from rat pee, and treated the battery tray with acid treatment and painted it since it's empty and only surface rust currently.
  • Member Statistics

    29,259
    Total Members
    939
    Most Online
    Datsun7
    Newest Member
    Datsun7
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.