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About My Cars

Found 59 results

  1. Hey guys, I'm brand new on here. I have a 75 280, and I'm having some issues. As most know, datsun is really weird about switching up their transistor ign modules throughout the years. Mine came with the E12-06, but I had a buddy who had a E12-27 that he'd sell me for cheap, so I grabbed it. However I've run into an issue. The 06 is a 7 pin (non cali), and the 27 is 5 pin, missing a brown and white wire. From what I've seen, the brown is a ground of sorts, but the white goes through the water temp relay to the water temp sensor (I'm assuming to advance/ retard turning when cold or at O.T.) My question is what should I do with the white wire? I may have to manually flip the relay somehow with a switch, but I might not have to. Any input will help!
  2. Seans260z

    Ignition circuit wires all smoking

    My 1974 260z haa uad some difficulty starting. I read up and found the engine has a reset button so I tried this and it would finally turn over, after i had replaced starter and ignition switch, but every wire in the ignition system got so hot they started to smoke... I'm not going to pretend es and I have any idea what's happening. The car has an electrical points upgrade, and an ignition coil from a 240. Currently not messing with it for fear of burning all my wires completely. Please help!
  3. orangething

    Mystery switch?

    This little switch is located on the passenger side of my 73 on the far right, the wiring looks new, but I dont have a battery yet nor have I tried to hook one up to the ancient leads to see what it does..but it doesn't quite look stock. Does anyone have any idea what this is for? Additionally, that choke looking pull, there are about 3 of them on the driver side if I remember correctly. Have no idea what those are for either. I've never heard anyone mention these bits on the inside of Z cars nor have I seen them, or I wouldn't be asking.
  4. For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spark issue because its getting flooded so it only happens the first time, however, since this problem started happening i've tried the following. - checked the fuel to the carbs. i took off the hose and cranked the engine and got a lot of fuel coming out - i made sure that the plug wires corresponded correctly with TDC and that the firing order was all correct - got a new battery - got new spark plugs - cranked it with a $^!# ton of start fluid. I havent adjusted the timing but i'm guessing it should be fine if it was fine before and I never took out the distributor. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Captainhaak

    Starts, but dies when revved, now...

    after searching the forums i was unable to find anything that would help: Here is my current situation: Vehicle: 72 240z stock l24 w e88 head, 3 screw roundtops stock 4 speed manual, only modification would be a fuel pump mounted at rear of car. Had the vehicle out one day, driving well, all was good. i hit a bump and the wire i have running next to the driveshaft for the fuel pump got caught on the driveshaft and tore, needless to say the car died. flash forward, fixed the wire, secured it better this time and all seemed good, fired her up, and she was once again idling. i hop in to drive after she was warmed up, blip the throttle and immediatly lose power, the car dies wait a couple minutes, start her up, same thing, idles, rev it up, and it dies. a week passes, and now she will barely start. battery fully charged. im assuming it is electrical, maybe i blew something when the positive wire for the fuel pump got tangled in the dri eshaft, but dont know where to look. any help would be much appreciated
  6. I keep being asked to show pictures of my LED converted tail lights, Front markers, LED sidemarkers, custome tail light panels and other similar items. So If you have had your Panel modified, Tail lights swapped for something else, or if I did your LED Conversion, PLEASE Post a good picture of your rear-end. (no pun intended)
  7. Hello all, I have dug through the old threads but cant seem to find anything that addresses testing the combination (dimmer) switch for the headlights on my '78 280z. I have narrowed down the problem to the switch, I think. Bulbs are good, fuses are good, continuity of circuit from the switch to the bulbs is good, even the ground return path (red with black stripe for low beam return path, red with white stripe for high beam return path). The headlight switch shown in in the picture has a white wire with red stripe that feeds constant power from the positive terminal of the battery (through fusible links first). When the dimmer switch for the headlights is in the high beam position, the switch completes the circuit when allowing the white with red stripe wire to feed power to the solid red wire which then goes on to the fuse box, and then splits into solid red (right headlight) and red with yellow stripe (left headlight). However, when the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the solid red wire does not receive power since the rocker arm does not connect the white with red stripe wire (hot from battery) to the red wire as it does when in the high beam position. Is this how the switch is supposed to function? I already cleaned it thoroughly, contacts between rocker arm and pins are good. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72653[/ATTACH]
  8. OK my tach,fuel gauge,temp and oil preasure as well as the choke light have stopped working a few times in the last couple days. Then they just start working again, wow its the magic Z. In any case this magic is not quite as entertaining as it is a pain in the butt. Any ideas what it could be, the car is a 1974 260z. Thanks Glenn
  9. I explained to the guy who's shop it's in there are three ways I can do re-wiring. Fast, correct, and beautiful. Choose two. Reliable might be a fourth, or an aspect of "correctly." Soldered and heat-shrunk connections are going to take far longer to complete and last years longer than crimped connections, as well as being impervious to water. I discovered a new technique. I use safety wire (or twister ties) to bundle all my wires until I'm all done. I put off taping and looming until EVERYTHING is complete, tested, and the vehicle running. That way adding or subtracting a wire from a particular bundle doesn't mean repeatedly looming and unlooming. Another trick I do is to include a "spare" 14AWG wire in every major bundle, for the circuit that inevitably got forgotten. Big bundles sometimes get two.
  10. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights at all. I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  11. I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the passanger side didnt smell any thing. I took out the igniton relay and took it apart and all the wiring harness conectors. Checked the relay and filed the contacts and hooked it back up and still nothing. If I turn the lights on the voltage gauge pegs below 12 volts and the lights dont turn on the head lights will on the second click. I tried unhooking all the wires connecting to that control arm and still nothing when i tured the key. I could still hear the clock ticking aswell. I am thinking about taking the dash out I also need to replace the heater core, do some rust work on the fire wall and under the battery, and carpet aswell as some lights and what not behide the dash. Thank you.
  12. zewald

    Fuel Pump gets no power

    Hey guys, i have a 75 280z, and it's taken me about 2 months of spinning my wheels to finally get on here and ask about this problem. I've looked at everything i can think of in the car. my fuel pump will not pump gas into the engine, it's not getting any power. i've checked the connections, and gone through as much of the harness as i can get to at the moment. and i haven't been able to find any problems, i replaced the pump to no avail. (i tested the old one and it definitely was faulty anyway) but i was wondering what else i should check to find the problem. this car has been my dream car for a long time, and i really want to get the thing up and running. any help would be appreciated.
  13. i've been taking out my center console, AC controls and center vent finisher, prior to which my turn signals were fully functional. i forgot that my Z club meets tomorrow, and i need to get the turn signals working again so i can drive it over. i thought that plugging the hazard lights switch back in would do it, but it only makes it so i can turn on the hazards. what else do the signals run through that i should plug back in? the only peripherals that i unplugged were the hazard switch, defogger switch, heater fan control, AC control lamp, blower motor, and radio.
  14. Dank

    Overheat after Jump Start?

    hey guys so i just jumpstarted my car (cuz i left the lights on...otherwise the car's been running great recently) it was after that that i noticed i was overheating (like almost in the red) i checked out the radiator while it was still running and the fan wasn't running. is it supposed to turn on while the car is running or just once the engine is turned off? it looks like everything else works (no leaks or anything) but i havent checked out the thermostat or anything like that cuz i dont really know anything about how those work...womp womp... anybody got an idea of where to begin looking for the problem? oh also the temp gauge rises mostly when im idling but once i drive around a bit it tends to go down a little bit but not very much
  15. SilverSurfer

    Hello and Please Help me with my 280Z

    Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
  16. I found this on motortrend yesterday. Aside from the bar across the center of the headlamps these look like they could be a good upgrade over our standard lighting. However, they are quite pricey. Bright Eyes for your Retro Ride?Peterson 701C LED replacement lamps. - Motor Trend Blog
  17. I've been trying to diagnose this problem for a while now and I'm stuck now, so I decided to post on here. vehicle: 1982 280zx non-turbo, automatic tranny here is the problem: My car will turn on (initially). I mean all the way to the on position and the dash will light up. I can hear the fuel pump, etc. Once I turn the key to the start position I hear one click and the the dash turns off and the volt meter on my dash goes all the way down. When I put the car into the on position (after attempting to start it the first time) the dash doesn't turn on and the voltmeter (on the dash) goes all the way down again. I tested the battery 12.6V when I checked the volt drop between the pos post on the battery and the battery cable it dropped almost 12 V. The only way that I have been getting it to start is taking off the neg battery cable for a while (I think to reset the ECU). after I wait like 10 seconds, I can put my car into the on position and the dash will light up again. When I try to start it, it sometimes kicks over and the engine will turn and idle at about 800-900rpm(nothing to do with temperature I dont think). But as of now, this trick does not work. what I know: new battery new starter alternator seems to be weak (haven't tested it because I can't start the car.) any help or guidance from a seasoned z car owner would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  18. zcar1977

    Last Leg

    I'm new here. Have found this site useful in the past and hope that I can draw on this pool of knowledge. After registering I found there is much more to enjoy. My 77 280 needed a few things taken care of before I felt comfortable putting it on the market. I procrastinated the last thing..the brake warning light never went off. I checked the ebrake switch, leaks, pressure differential switch and bled the brakes. The last thing could fathum trying was the relay under the passenger seat. I unplugged it and the light went off, only now it won't come on and my oil pressure and fuel guage stopped working? It blows the fuel guage fuse! Is the relay under the seat connected to the guages or is this a strange coincidence? Additionally, since I unplugged the relay the white charge light stays on in the voltmeter..? The ebrake light will not come and the fuse blows with the relay connected or not. The electrical worked fine except for the brake warning light before I disconnected that relay. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. :disappoin
  19. First and foremost, I have searched multiple forums and believe I do in fact have the correct dashboard wiring harness, but due to the multiple part number changes, I thought I would confirm with the community before embarking on the dash removal Background: Last night I went to replace the gas gauge in my 6/70 Z. To my dismay and utter disappointment, the dashboard wiring harness currently in the car has been butchered and all the wires have been spliced together. Everything works except the gas gauge and all the radio connections are destroyed. i want to install the original radio when I replace the gauge, so installing the new harness is the only solution. Solution: I purchased a dashboard wiring harness a year or two ago, which the owner told me was removed from a 1970 Z. The part number tag is still on the harness and reads as follows: 24013 E4650 G 70 7 JAPAN 24013 E4651 G 70 7 JAPAN My hope is the harness is from a 7/70 car, but I wanted to get input from the gurus on the site. My car is a 6/70 build date with a manual transmission. Can anyone confirm that this is in fact the correct wiring harness for my car? Are there any potential issues I need to be aware of as I prepare the change over? Knowing the harness is correct would sure provide me with the extra confidence I'll need to tackle removing the dash and reconnecting the harness. Thanks for taking the time to read the post and provide feedback. Have a great day. Don
  20. well, after weeks of working on it, i'm finally done. and you can reap the benefits of all my work! below i've made available my new, full-color version of the 1976 280z wiring diagram. it is vector-based, so it can be blown up as big as you'd like without losing legibility. the text is copyable and searchable. i will warn you, i'm 110% sure that there are errors. you get a gold star if you point them out to me. a wire or object in hot pink denotes that i'm not sure of the true color of the item. i'll post updated versions on this thread as needed, so look at the most recent reply for the newest download. enjoy! download here: http://sridout.com/datsun/76circuit_COLOR v.1 edit: i thought i'd add an illustration that i just finished for Tim280z of his car. take a look at the thumb below...
  21. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights a all at night, I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  22. zdude1967

    I need everyone's help on this

    I have a short or something going on that when I pres the brake pedal the sidemarker lights and the dash lights come on in addition to the rear brake lights. Also when I have my headlights on the turn signal for the left signal lights up ...Anybody have an issue like this and how did you fix it. Thanks
  23. zdude1967

    What is this ???

    Could anyone tell me what this is on a 260z. If you also know how it is wired you rock!
  24. saridout

    no lights, no power, no nothing

    since i've gotten my engine back in the car, i've got no electrical power at all. no lights, no reaction to turning the key, et cetera. the battery seems to be fully charged, and i was very careful to reattach everything just as it was before the rebuild. i've replaced the starter unit and the fusible links, but that's all i've changed. if there's one thing i'm absolute pants at, it's electrical stuff. where should i even start looking? is this being caused by a short, possibly?
  25. saridout

    key ignition non-functional

    i'll preface this with the fact that i rebuild my engine and refreshed the engine bay which involved removing everything from it. i didn't touch anything under the dash. it's definitely not the starter; the engine turns over when the starter solenoid is connected directly to the battery. when the key is turned, the dash and body lights come on, but when the key is fully engaged, the seat belt alarm comes on and there's a clunking sound coming from the area above the fuse box. i've got continuity between the yellow wire on the starter solenoid and the black/yellow wire going to the ignition switch, but when i've got 12V going to the switch, it never gets to the yellow wire at the starter solenoid. is there anything else i'm missing that i should check? edit: forgot to say that my battery keeps going dead, and it was fine before the rebuild.
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