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  1. Can anyone tell me what these things are on a 1974 late model 260z Unknown item 1 is on the passenger side mounted above the frame rail.(silver box mounting screws on top, might have been black in the past) Unknown item 2 (rectangle metal box with wires going to it) is under the black cover on the passenger side in front of the battery on the fender well. It is under the black cover on the back side (towards back of car). item 3 is on the opposite side of item 2 under the black cover towards the front of the car.(smaller metal box with wires connected) Item 4 (the silver
  2. I have decided to rewire my aging wiring loom and upgrade it to execute all the little upgrades I have in mind. I am by no means an electrical master, but I know the importance even our 70's cars need. My plans for my '74 260z is to wire tuck, hide the wires in the engine bay to be nearly nonextant, and to also include motor sport techniques to make quality upgrades. All wires will be replaced by Tefzel wire and Raychem heat shrink. the point is to make a bulletproof wire loom and to have fun working on this project and making it special. Now for everyone's benefit i will be updating this with
  3. Noticed my brake lights weren't working on my 1972 240z. 1. Replaced the brake light switch, still not working. 2. Turn signals, lights, hazard lights all working and blinking. 3. Used a meter to test both new brake light switch, and wires leading to switch. power seems to be going to switch, and new switch doesn't seem to be faulty. Not really sure where to go from here. I've never really worked on cars before, so my mechanical/electrical expertise is minimal. I just successfully upgraded to an electronic ignition and new coil, and that's the most in depth thing I've ever
  4. Hey guys, I'm brand new on here. I have a 75 280, and I'm having some issues. As most know, datsun is really weird about switching up their transistor ign modules throughout the years. Mine came with the E12-06, but I had a buddy who had a E12-27 that he'd sell me for cheap, so I grabbed it. However I've run into an issue. The 06 is a 7 pin (non cali), and the 27 is 5 pin, missing a brown and white wire. From what I've seen, the brown is a ground of sorts, but the white goes through the water temp relay to the water temp sensor (I'm assuming to advance/ retard turning when cold or at O.T
  5. My 1974 260z haa uad some difficulty starting. I read up and found the engine has a reset button so I tried this and it would finally turn over, after i had replaced starter and ignition switch, but every wire in the ignition system got so hot they started to smoke... I'm not going to pretend es and I have any idea what's happening. The car has an electrical points upgrade, and an ignition coil from a 240. Currently not messing with it for fear of burning all my wires completely. Please help!
  6. The electrical harness on my Z is in wretched shape. P.O. cut through and spliced too much to name. I have no brake lights. And yes I have read an excellent no brake lights thread. I have one working turn signal (left), no hazards. I just reattached the hazard switch connector which is what brought the one turn signal online. Im thinking it’s the multifunction switch. But it’s hard to say there is so much electrical terror in my car. Maybe it’s the brake pedal switch. The most likely culprit is abuse by a PO. Any tips or advice?
  7. well, after weeks of working on it, i'm finally done. and you can reap the benefits of all my work! below i've made available my new, full-color version of the 1976 280z wiring diagram. it is vector-based, so it can be blown up as big as you'd like without losing legibility. the text is copyable and searchable. i will warn you, i'm 110% sure that there are errors. you get a gold star if you point them out to me. a wire or object in hot pink denotes that i'm not sure of the true color of the item. i'll post updated versions on this thread as needed, so look at the most recent reply for the newe
  8. I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the pa
  9. I'm finishing up the wiring as I near the end of the restoration of my '76 280z. There is a single black wire with a spade connector on the ignition switch. Any help on where it connects? You guys have been a great resource so far! Thanks!
  10. I have a 1972 240z, and the guy I bought it from got a viper security system and a beefy sound system wired in (very poorly might I add). I need to rewire a lot of the engine bay and the wiring diagrams available are not helping, a lot of wires are spliced and replaced that don't match up or are just taped off and lead nowhere. If anybody has a diagram of all the 10 pin connectors that are located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard it would help a lot, or if anybody has any self made diagrams that are at all related to engine bay wiring please post them, anything might help me out.
  11. I recently installed the Crane xr3000 and used the 14 gauge wire - per the Crane instructions. However my tach is not steady and it will drop sometimes between shifts. It just generally works poorly. I have heard of a fix for this - anyone know what it is.
  12. Could someone tell me the wiring color to color on the combo switch from the switch to the dash 9 pin connector. I had my switch redone and my 9 pin on the dash side was melted I had to put the wires into a new connector on the dash side and I am not sure if I got if right.
  13. I have a short or something going on that when I pres the brake pedal the sidemarker lights and the dash lights come on in addition to the rear brake lights. Also when I have my headlights on the turn signal for the left signal lights up ...Anybody have an issue like this and how did you fix it. Thanks
  14. Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewi
  15. This little switch is located on the passenger side of my 73 on the far right, the wiring looks new, but I dont have a battery yet nor have I tried to hook one up to the ancient leads to see what it does..but it doesn't quite look stock. Does anyone have any idea what this is for? Additionally, that choke looking pull, there are about 3 of them on the driver side if I remember correctly. Have no idea what those are for either. I've never heard anyone mention these bits on the inside of Z cars nor have I seen them, or I wouldn't be asking.
  16. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights at all. I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  17. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights a all at night, I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  18. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights a all at night, I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  19. For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spar
  20. Just finished a complete engine rebuild on my 1975 Datsun 280z (I named her Bonnie) a few days ago. I've owned Bonnie since 11/1/2015, just 6 months now, and began the rebuild the end of November. When I tried to start it, I have absolutely no power in the car, no lights inside, no headlights, no clicking in the ignition, nothing? Hoping I didn't kill Bonnie. Here is what I've done so far; I've cleaned and checked the battery and terminals, all new terminals. Checked for power from positive, the only power I have is to the starter, no power to the alternator or the ignition. I've check
  21. I have a 73 240Z which I converted a few years back from points to a Crane 700 electronic ignition. Ever since I did the conversion I have had difficulty starting the car when it is cold and the engine easily floods. The spark appears weak while cranking and often needs a shot of starter fluid to turn over. The real problem is that it generally only starts after I stop cranking the starter. As soon as I let off the key to stop the starter from cranking is when it generally starts. It seems like the starter is drawing too much current but I'm fairly convinced that it has something to do with ho
  22. Hi all: I searched here for the answer, and I Googled a bit for a source. But no luck so far, other than Ebay, which has connectors that don't look the same as mine. I noticed on my '77 (that I just bought) that the AFM connector does not seem to have any retaining means in the AFM. If I unbolt the AFM, the connector falls out as soon as I move it. I'm concerned the connector will fall out while driving. Is there a source for a replacement connector, aside from getting an entire harness? I can't even tell what is supposed to retain it. But I assume this is not an uncommon issue
  23. Completed my installation of a fuse block to replace the ageing fusible links. Used the same Mini ANL block that Mike W used in his 260, except purchased the 4 fused output block. One 80A ANL for the alternator feed back, and three 50A for the other circuits were the fuses I used. This model has 2 inputs so I will eventually run another cable from the unused port to a inexpensive 2 output small fuse block without the digital bling for the FI links. The display has 4 led's for the fuse status, and the system volts / current. The display cycles between volts & amps
  24. Hi Guys! I need advice on my left rear turn signal diagnostic. The left rear turn signal quit working. All the bulbs are fine. The left front signal works fine. Both right turn signals front and rear work fine. ALL the hazards work including the left rear. BOTH rear brake lights work. HOWEVER, When the brakes are applied the left brake light goes out when the left turn signal is activated and there is no flashing signal. With the right turn signal activated and the brakes applied, the right signal flashes normally over riding the brake light. I read a couple of threads and my diagnosis is
  25. Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting cle
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