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Found 64 results

  1. View Advert L24 Engine & Transmission - For sale I have a spare L24 engine & transmission that I would like to sell. My restro. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/10812-crshowers/ is all most complete and spare parts no longer needed. What is missing? Just the thermostat inlet housing. All other parts are intact. This has flat top carbs that you most likely want to replace. The engine has not been run in the past 10 years. It has a performance cam installed. I do not have any details, as the prior owner has passed away. I would like to see someone is the Northeast be the new owner to minimize delivery costs. I think that $1K is a fair price for both. Advertiser crshowers Date 08/10/2020 Price $1,000.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  2. Time Left: 11 days and 1 hour

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have a spare L24 engine & transmission that I would like to sell. My restro. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/10812-crshowers/ is all most complete and spare parts no longer needed. What is missing? Just the thermostat inlet housing. All other parts are intact. This has flat top carbs that you most likely want to replace. The engine has not been run in the past 10 years. It has a performance cam installed. I do not have any details, as the prior owner has passed away. I would like to see someone is the Northeast be the new owner to minimize delivery costs. I think that $1K is a fair price for both.


    Center Harbor, New Hampshire - US

  3. View Advert 280Z parts - used - in Switzerland Hello all I have a large amount of parts for a 280z --> see pictures. Should you have any interest - please feel free to contact me. Price is depending on part as well on quantity, ... --> please ask Shipment could be organized if prepayment is accepted. Personally I am looking for 240z parts - specially a back panel Cheers Roland Advertiser Roland468 Date 05/20/2020 Price $280.00 Category Parts for Sale  

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Hello all I have a large amount of parts for a 280z --> see pictures. Should you have any interest - please feel free to contact me. Price is depending on part as well on quantity, ... --> please ask Shipment could be organized if prepayment is accepted. Personally I am looking for 240z parts - specially a back panel Cheers Roland


    Buonas, Zug - CH

  5. I posted the other day about sputtering at high speeds (100mph) and received some great suggestions. Thanks There seems to be an issue I just discovered, bubbling in the fuel line, I guess it is air. I orginally thought this to be vapor lock as I am in AZ and it is very hot. However the other day I took the car out and it began running poorly in seconds, well before vapor lock should have occured. I have included a photo it seems there may be air in the line and it is causing bubbles and I guess that is causing an inconsistant fuel flow. I am guessing I have a hole in a line or some loose connection that is causing air to be sucked into the fuel lines. Has anyone had an issue like this, or any suggestions. I do not see fuel line for sale for me to replace the current lines. In any case any insight would be appreciated. I guess this could be why the car begins to sputter as the fuel demand increases at the upper mph level. Thanks Glenn
  6. The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph
  7. I have a complete 75 280z L28 with brand new MSA 6-1 header and all new head mounting hardware for the maniflolds. Also intake manifold is partially shaved and polished. Brand new starter with relay mod installed. Car ran good and pulled hard has 86k miles. I am asking 800 for engine and all harness since the header is 320 and i just installed it. I am selling due to finding a good deal on an LS swap. I also have trans that has brand new bushings in the shifter and fuel tank that has recently been cleaned out very well. Also, have a bunch of interior stuff i wont be putting back. Let me know what you need. Located around Akron, OH. Call/ text (330) 317-9501 Brian
  8. Rebuilding an f54 block and p79 head, only have two questions I haven't really been able to find an answer too. Probably simple questions. I"m looking for main bearing studs for the 83 f54 block and all the bolts I can find say 70-78 which would be an N42 block, right? Will those studs fit the f54 block? I was hoping to use arp hardware for the main studs, rod bolts, and head studs. Also, I'm going to be doing the "high compression mod" for the p79, which involves shaving the head .080" , shimming the cam towers .080" (which I found proper shims for on datsunspirit.) running n47 valves, which I have, that are .080" longer, and shimming the valve springs by .080". I read about this on datsunzgarage, and he mentions that the valve springs come with a .040" shim from factory, and to add two more. I can't for the life of me find those anywhere. Does anyone who has done this or knows about it know what I should use to accomplish this? He specifically says not to use washers, I assume because the metal is too soft or something. Additionally, having a little bit of trouble finding oversized flat top pistons in stock anywhere. Datsunspirit has them listed on his website as out of stock, I'm sure if I contacted him about buying some he could get a hold of them for me.
  9. I have a 78 280z with 0 compression in cylinder 1 and limited in another. I had car to.classic mechanic who suggested rebuild of the engine. It starts but makes loud ping sound running. He did not want to to do work because he was not familiar with Datsun. Could not find replacement engine either. How do I find a mechanic to do work, and what is realistic cost? He said 5k which seemed high. Body is solid so fixing seems right idea, but I could use advice.
  10. Has anyone here ever removed the emissions mess above the intake manifold on their L24? There is no emissions required for cars older than 30 years in my state, and I love the look of my engine bay save the emissions vacuum line maze. What do you think?
  11. I recently installed the Crane xr3000 and used the 14 gauge wire - per the Crane instructions. However my tach is not steady and it will drop sometimes between shifts. It just generally works poorly. I have heard of a fix for this - anyone know what it is.
  12. Version 1.0.0


    L6 engine calculator submitted to the club many years ago. It was written and submitted by the Sydney Zcar Club of Australia in 1999. A discussion about this download can be found in our forums here:


  13. Good evening, I just purchased a second L28 motor to rebuild into a stroker. I currently have a 72 240z with an L28 but want more power. I just came across an 82 Maxima Diesel that has 160k on the motor, the engine is running and for sale $1k, I have some questions and need advice? It appears the LD28 cranks arerunning about $2k on eBay, this appears to be a good deal but I am not sure if I need to do anything to the crank once I extract it, based on those miles, should I have any concern about that crank? Is there anything else from that engine that is valuable (less worried about that). Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.
  14. Carbs and manifold removed from strong running 240Z and stored with all openings taped shut, in plastic, inside garage in dry climate. No problems when removed from car that was totaled. Make me an offer.
  15. Hi CZC! Long time lurker and first time poster. I have much enjoyed the content that is provided here on CZC forums. I am in a pickle however. Long story short. My 280z was placed in the garage for nearly a year. I am trying to get her running smoothly. When I crank the car, the car will run roughly (as if some cylinders were not firing.) My car would shake all over the place. A friend told me that it was mis firing so I did the easiest and most common things first and that was to replace the spark plugs, spark wires, cap and rotor. After installing all the said things, it ran and idled under 1000 rpms after gassing the car for maybe 5 mins (still rough shaking...). Now, here is the weird part. I turned off my car in attempt to screw the battery on tightly (i left it loose). I approached the battery with my wrench and sparks flew from the positive terminal. Boy... did I have to change my underwear... I detached the battery cables and then reconnected them in positive then negative fashion. The car will now only crank....It wont start. My friend assumed that I short circuited a fuse when I made the battery spark but I couldnt tell where to start. Any suggestions as to how to approach this dilemma? Best, Jalapeno Business
  16. I went into my garage to start up my car and it began to run,then the car just turns off and won't even start up anymore. We think it might be because of the fuel pump or the engine because when we try to start it up it will try to run for a while but the smoke isn't black it's more of a whiteish color. Another symptom is that the oil on the dipstick is of a chocolatey color, which means water. The car also misfires a lot. We asked a retired Datsun mechanic what would be the cause of this and he responded that water might have been going in the engine and that the year for the 1978 280z developed a crack in the cylinder head and in order to save the engine we had to drain the oil and let the car sit for 24 hours. And put new oil and hope the engine is fine. 2nd we went to oriellys auto parts to see what it would cost to buy a new head cylinder but the guy wanted to know what was wrong with the car and we told him the symptoms, and he decided we needed some head crack sealer that goes in the radiator. And now we're stuck. need help. Skype could be a good way to see what's going on with our car.
  17. Old Hat

    Christine - Engine

    From the album: Christine

    © John Petkovich

  18. Hi all, This is pretty much my first time on a forum apart from a short time on rotary car club, so please excuse me if I do things a little wonky starting off. Anyway, I absolutely love s30's and intend on rebuilding one in the near future. I'm here to try and get started. My plans have changed over time from an ls swapped 300zx to a 350sbc swapped s30 to just realizing I wanted to retain the L platform in these cars and just go for lightweight, and great throttle response and handling with modest power. So I'm set on an L28 and after a bit of research here actually have come to the conclusion I'm looking for a p54 block with an n42 head in need of rebuild, or at least clean up and assembly. The problem is, I can't seem to find anything near me that seems like a reasonable price. The best thing I've found right now is a guy selling "l28 blocks with dished pistons" for 350 and a range of heads from 500-800. He seems to have a large warehouse full of parts and I will probably contact him with what I'm looking for. But I figured it would be worth a shot to hop on a forum that seems to be filled with nice, helpful people and see if anyone has these in the area(washington state, not afraid to drive). If you have any information feel free to send it my way, and thank you for your time. I hope to be on here troubleshooting in the near future, working on the Z. (:
  19. Hi all, new guy here. I will take this opportunity to introduce myself and my car. About me My name is Mario, I live in Cedar Rapids, IA. I'm in my low 30s (for those who care), I like to work on cars, but I don't have a whole lot of detailed experience, however I'm very willing to learn. In early April igot the car (I wasn't necessarily looking for one, it found me). I've knew about 2X0Z for a while (my father in-law has two of 240Z sitting in his backyard rusting away ) but when this deal came I could not refuse. About the car 1978 280Z, 59,XXX miles when I got it. Original, survival (I have all the original paper work including signed contract from the dealer and window sticker). Never saw snow, rarely any rain. Previous owner had it for over 25 years and drove it maybe a 1000 miles a year. Always garaged. Few things he did to car: lower suspension with Tokico springs and adjustable shocks, big brake kit upfront, SS brake lines,cold air intake, newer spark plug wires, 2.5" exhaust form MSA, including down pipe and all the way to turbo muffler. Other than that all was stock, including all the engine gaskets! What I did when I got the car Replaced the fluids: engine oil and filter, rear diff, MT oil, coolant. replaced the spark plugs with with the stock NGK ones, replaced fuel filter, distributor cap and the rotor, replaced battery cables, installed new 16x8, 0 ofset XXR513 black/silver wheels that came with the purchase. The issue I have hard time starting the car after it sits for a while (for example a day at work). The car did not have this issue when I first got it, but slowly it developed it. One point to mention is that it started BEFORE I did any part replacement under the hood. Here is the link to a youtube video of wha the car does. Sometimes it is more sever, sometimes it is less sever: One additional point to mention is that the RPMs are typically low for "cool start". I would expect the RPMs to sit around 900-1000 when the engine is warming up and slowly come down to 700-800 rpms. It's as if the engine does not recognize the "cool start" and perhaps does not go into fuel enrichment period.The starting issue is there regardless of the outside temperature. It could be 85 or 60 degrees, still acts the same. Based on what I noticed this morning when I sarted the engine I'm thinking it has something to do with the air delivery. Right after I started the car (RPMs were hovering around 700) I went in and unplugged the vac hose between intake manifold and fuel pressure regulator. As soon as I unplugged it at the FPR and left it opened (therefore providing more air to the system), the engine reved up to around 800-900rpm. When I plugged the vac hose with my finger engine would drop rpms. After few minutes of running, this drop and rise of rpms was much lesser, if any at all. Here is what I did for troubleshooting so far I do have EFI bible and the Service Manual and I actually have performed quite a bit troubleshooting in the cold start department: replaced water temp sensor as well as water temp sensor connector, cleaned thermotime switch and replaced its electrical connector. I performed continuity/resistance/voltage tests as described in Service Manual at the ECU for water temp sensor, themotime switch, Cold Start Valve, and Auxiliary Air Recirculating valve. All checked out OK, unless I misinterpreted the results. I pulled out CSV, cleaned it externally and cleaned its electrical connector. I pulled the AAR valve and made sure that the internal flap was moving freely. I took out Air Flow Meter and made sure the flap was moving freely. I wiped it inside. Having AFM out gave me inside look at the throttle body, so I sprayed some electrical connector cleaner and wiped it clean (there was actually quite a bit black gunk that came out)...the starting problem persists.The fuel pressure is not maintained in my system. I installed inline fuel pressure gauge right after the fuel filter. The pressure drops to 0 after few hours of car being off. However, before I crank the car I prime the fuel pump by turning ignition to ON/OFF position 4-5 times, until I see that pressure gauge reads around 31 psi. Even then I still get the problem. ...I started to run out of ideas. ​What else can it be? One of the comments in my youtube video says it could be a vapor lock. If so, what could cause this vapor lock? Beside this starting issue I believe car drives well (I say believe, because I have never driven a Z so I don't have a benchmark to compare to). It feels like it pulls all the way through the RPM range. The only other thing I have noticed is that when I drive it harder I get slight afterfire when up shifting 1-->2 and 2-->3 gear. Help...
  20. Hi. My name is Arnoldo, I'm from south of Mexico. I own a 1977 280z that will be in a future restauration process (as soon as I have enough cash). Recently I noted a leakage in the coolant tubes on the engine block, and in the one in the thermostat housing, so I purchased new ones to replace those. The problem came when I actually tried to replace them: I found that my car had an extra line that came out of the tube on the front of the block and to a part that sits on the upper side of the intake manifold, that has a lot of what I think are vaccum lines to different parts of the car, and another line to the thermostat housing. I didn't found those in the diagram that comes in the FSM (then again, I'm kinda bad reading diagrams), and I don't know what are those line for. The parts that I bought are for that model in particular, but the tube doesn't have this outlet. As Celia Cruz used to say: "My english is not very good looking"... so a picture is better that a thousand words.
  21. Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
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