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Found 12 results

  1. Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock! Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler KVID0467.mp4 KVID0466.mp4 KVID0864.mp4
  2. Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley
  3. Hi all, I've been really cranking away at my Z (11/70) and put my stroker in as well as the new 5 speed. My issue is fitting the old clutch cylinder to the new clutch fork. On my old 4 speed transmission the fork had a hole in it for the threaded rod to go through and I could compress the clutch fully. However on the new one, this hole does not exist and I can't compress the rod fully to bolt the clutch to the new transmission. Really hoping for some suggestions on this and thanks in advance for the help. Chris
  4. First off, hello there, my name is Brad. I am new here... and yes this is another SHOULD I BUY THIS post so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching my local area and nearby states for a Z car (specifically pre 1979... no ZX). I am planning on doing a budget build and not a restoration. I will be going for the classic JDM look (fender mirrors, flairs etc.). I am a performance car enthusiast and currently daily drive a 2011 Subaru STi, however performance is not my end goal. I already have a great performance car so I want something that looks different for cruising and taking to some shows. I love the way the classic Z cars look, even stock they are gorgeous. This may upset purists but imperfections don’t bother me and this car will be far from perfect for some time. The imperfections are character and show history. That being said I don’t want a complete ROT project, as many don’t. After searching I found what I think is the best deal I’ve seen so far and plan on going to check it out today with CASH in hand but would love to hear some opinions and words of caution from those more experienced than I. Here is the ad: 1974 Datsun 260Z Turbo This car is just up the road so it’s a lucky find in my opinion. Some more information from the guy after talking with him and looking at pictures he sent me. - The floor pans are not rusted through, only surface rust. - The electrical issue is because he had someone else wire the car and they used the wrong harness. Everything works (lights, turn signals etc) just some of it is mixed up, like the wipers are turned on VIA the defrost button . So nothing major and something I will fix. - He checked the wheel wells and strut tower areas and said nothing was rusted through (I will confirm this) - The car was originally from Texas but spent 2 years in Connecticut, that’s where the little bit of rust came from. It now resides in Columbia, SC. I originally set out to find a carbureted setup to eliminate EFI and having to work with ECU/tuning. I currently do that on my STi but it can be tougher than making adjustments to a ye ol’ carb setup. However he said it runs great and has no issues so I shouldn’t have to touch the engine much at the moment. The only issue comes in when I do have to. Maybe someone can shed some light on this part, is it a good setup, easy or hard to work with and so on. I think that is the only thing holding me back at the moment (besides the obvious that I haven’t seen it in person yet). I know I’m forgetting some small details so I will update if I can think of anything. Thanks in advance!
  5. does any one know what year honda fan motor swaps into early 240 z's?
  6. Hey everyone, I know you guys are all about keeping things lightly modified or stock. 2 pretty straight questions for what could become a large modification (just to get me started). I was told the engine in my 71 240z is a 260z engine/transmission. Are there any numbers on the block that would tell me what the truth is? Same for the transmission? If it is a 260z, can I bore it to make a 280Z engine out of it (since a 280 is a bored 260, this makes sense, unless i'm missing something)? The end result I want is a carbureted 280Z that runs well and fast with a 5 speed transmission, for as cheap as i can do it (i'm pretty good with a wrench, dad welds, need to hire boring/milling) Thanks!!
  7. Gday! New to the forum so if i am posting in the wrong section, please forgive me. I have done lots of homework and have been looking all through the forums to build an idea, so this isn't my first stop Really keen on finally getting a start on my Z car dream, just worried my ambitions are getting in the way. Local bloke here in Florida has a gutted 75 280z for 1500: generally rough in most factors, but is rust free and the body is pretty clean. She has no engine, just a P30 block / E88 Head... I'm confident everything else is mechanically sound with the trans, suspension etc... What can I expect to pay to get her back on the road? ie: Replacing the engine here in Florida. Please give me a ballpark figure of common turbo-engine swaps. I would like the SR20DET or something strong enough to slaughter my arch-enemy's stock 370z... but I am sure an L28 could do the job. Is it reliable to buy a complete engine from craigslist? Would anybody fit it if I brought it to them with my 280z? I see there are tons of complete engines all over craigslist for good prices, is this a good place to start? Will respect and appreciate your wisdom!!! Please don't send me to Hybridz.org, already reading through the forums. Thanks !!!
  8. I am sure it has been beaten to death, but I need to ask it," what do I need to do to put a L28 out of a 1977 280Z into my 1972 240Z?" My '72 has the factory L24 with the SU's, a 3-2 header with a cobbled up exhaust. I found a '77 280z car with it's fuel injected L28, manual trans drive train. My Z has a 5 speed manual currently. I would like to keep the fuel injection on the L28, what do I need to do? I am new to Z cars, I bought my first today, I like the idea of the larger displacement of the L28, I also like the reliability of fuel injection and ditching the SU carbs on my 240 sounds good. Please help, I am curious about wiring, fuel system, exhaust....clutch....whatever else you can think of. Thanks everyone.
  9. I want a 5 speed but cant find any zx or z around that seems to have them. I want to know if there are other models of Nissan or any other car that share a similar trans. hopefully you can tell me also if the 280zx 5speed and the 240-280z splines will match when swapping in a 5 speed. thank you
  10. I have a 1975 280z with a four speed. When I bought it, the guy had a 5 speed as well that he gave me. It is an earlier wide ratio 5, but I'd still like to drop it in there to see if it's good. My brother, the pro mechanic, may pull it apart, just to see if the inside looks ok before we put it in. So, aside from the internals, is there other things I need to worry about? i.e.: - Do the 4 and 5 speeds use the same clutch and throw out? - same driveshaft and flange? - same tranny mount hardware? - I seem to have read a thread that suggests the shifter is a little long. Is that long on the top end, where I just cut an inch off the top, or is more finesse required? Is this a real incompatibility, or just a preference for a short throw shifter? - Anything else I forgot? I drive the car pretty regularly (it's my daily driver, when I'm not on my motorcycle), so I'd rather not get everything apart to find out I need part X, that is back order for 4 weeks. thanks the the info. Geof
  11. Hello everyone, I have a 78 280z 2+2 with a 4 speed. I recently had issues with the engine that made it run rich enough to gas up the oil and it wouldn't run without flooring it basically. I had the AFM adjusted leaner, the cold start disconnected, and had it running well and one day it did this. so we swapped the engine out of my dad's 80 280zx because he wants a SBC in his. I had to move my temp sensor to the thermostat like on the old engine, use my distributor and replace the temp gauge sending unit, along with a few other swaps to configure the cooling and the vacuum to work right. The engine ran GREAT in his car, and we just put his AFM into it with the engine. we couldn't get it to start, so we did a ton of simple checks like plugs, wires, etc. figured out the firing order was wrong on the dist cap and after we got it right it started up and ran rough. we checked the timing and got it running smoother, but the next day we went to start it and now it won't start at all. it gets fairly close but only if the timing is really retarded, and the pops thinks it's loading up with too much fuel. any ideas on why? it's getting to be really annoying sharing 2 vehicles with 3 people when I have my car licensed and it's not running... any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks everyone who takes the time to read my novel thread.
  12. ok so i have a 72 240z that i just swapped a rebuilt l26 into with 1971 round top su's the car is running awesome but something sorta weird is going on. the tube that comes out of the crank case to the pcv valve isn't exactly the same as on the l24 and their is a rubber line that went to it on the l24 that that is about the size as a vac advance hose that no longer has a place to hook up. it comes from the drivers side fender well. there is one hose coming in from the back of the car to a splitter and two coming out. the bottom one was never hooked up but the top one went to that crank case tube. now that this is not hooked up my breaks seem bad almost like the break boost is not hooked up. is this related? thanks in advance for any input
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