- Past hour
I think barrier hoses are used with the R-134 re smaller size mole. that being said new hoses are prob in order regardless if you plan to use different condensor and compressor.
If you want to go with just changes to under the hood, I would go with a PF condenser generic that fits the opening in the core support. You may have to relocate the drier as I think most PF have fittings on the same side. Not sure about this...
I have used Valvoline 20/50 racing oil/VR1 in my 5/71 240Z since 1972. All temp ranges (Eastern Wa, Montana, Florida, and New Mexico) with no issues. Of course no winter time driving. Amsoil has Z-Rod which is high-zinc formula.
I have. The AFM worked fine though. Notice that the ratio is still 1.8, just like if you had 180 and 100. I don't really know how the AFM works so can't say if that means anything.
Dan, you are clearing the trail for me. My turn signals don’t work either, I haven’t tried to diagnose the problem yet. I have bigger fish frying right now and the back burner is smoking. I have too many Z task I’m working on….I’m trying to focus 🧘 .
I look forward to seeing how your repair work out. I actually get a lot of satisfaction on wiring repair. As a former USAF avionics mechanic they trained me pretty well in the menial task of building and repairing wire bundles. Put on a good podcast and get the soldering iron, multi-meter and shrink wrap ready.
The S20 airboxes have carburettor trumpets/funnels integral with the cover:
Adding a rear anti-sway bar reduces body roll and oversteer. Brings the 240Z closer to neutral handling. On the downside - you lose some of the warnings as you approach the limits of tire adhesion. Body roll and tire squealing are warnings that you are approaching the limit….. so with no warning spin-outs happen suddenly and unexpectedly if you are not experienced and right on top of your game. I think that is where the old saying “you don’t know your limits until you spin out” comes from.
You also lose the ability to use trailing throttle oversteer to set the rear of the car out where you want it attacking fast corners. For that reason about 8 or 9 out of 10 240Z’s are road raced without a rear anti-sway bar. A better solution is a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar. It reduces body roll but maintains throttle control for faster corners.
NISSAN calls them the releasebearing? and i'm surprised that you needed to press them on? I just fit it to the axle and ready..
And btw, i don't have a machinist.. (My engine needed just a clean up.. (after 120000km.)) I only took the head to a machinist to clean it in a special washing machine.
I'm still having trouble getting a full set together.
I now have 3 narrow Kobe Seiko mag wheels and 1 wide wheel, so I need either 1 more wide and 1 more narrow.
I did find a wide 1 on YAJ! But was outbid by someone on the East Coast of the US of A.
I have a possible lead on another lot but haven't pursued then yet as I'm sure the asking price is outside my budget.
So the M-speed ones will give me a complete set and require less special treatment.
That's why I opened up a topic on taxation values. How the hell to they justify these prices? So basically because its not restored and family owned it's worth big bucks?
Oh thank bejeezus! I was having a mild panic attack about having put a lot of effort and money into something that was maybe going to be a boat anchor.
I've learned, have them tested before you leave. They're about half junk for sure but eventually you'll get a good one.
So that means the MC "issue" is just the fact there's an R where an F is expected.
One reasonable explanation for the F and the R is that it makes it easier for the people assembling the cars to put the big reservoir on the right spot. The real discussion might be why they decided to switch the reservoirs. Maybe a decision was made to switch the reservoirs and the switching of the lines followed, logically, but had nothing at all to do with how the stacked hydraulic pistons operated.
Anyway, if you're restoring it or you're going to be at car shows, then making it look right is probably worthwhile. Otherwise you'll spend hours talking about F and R instead of the other cool things.
I only chimed in here because you implied that the previous owner did not know what they were doing, when they might have actually known exactly how things worked and decided it wasn't worth messing with.
Well, I thought I’d be smart ad clean up my steering shaft with a wire wheel, but I wasn’t thinking about what I was doing and I hit the rubber seals on my perfectly good universal joint and ripped them off. Now I have a problem.
I know you can get a u-joint from a Land Rover that fits in these staked shafts from later 240zs, but it’s the restaking that is the issue. I can’t find a machine shop willing to do anything with a staked u-joint, including removing them.
You gave enough details to get a good guess.
I'm glad it was that easy.
That's right. There should be 4 screws, but you only have 3 when you twist the head off one. That happened when I changed bulbs 22 years ago. Why did I need to change bulbs? I put in a new alternator and didn't know it was internally regulated. I was checking my new relay setup and running the car to test the new alternator. I measured the voltage at the battery and saw 17 volts! Before I could turn off the car, the passenger headlight went *poof*!
A little research on Zhome.com, and I figured out my problem, and bypassed the voltage regulator.
I absolutely need to get started on reassembling that engine. I am a bit stuck on some details. And of course, time is a factor. But I miss driving the car.
It has about 46k original miles. The only reason I took it out was to fix a leaking front main seal and ro cleanit up. Then I spotted oil staining on the exhasut gasket, which I attributed to worn valve guide seals. So I pulled the head. And now I want to clean the engine bay up too...
- Last week
I was searching around and found a 15mm x 39mm U-Joint on Amazon supposedly for a Land Rover. In the images they list the part number as AST-1539, and a quick google search makes it look like this is, in fact, a real thing.
AST-1539 is actually the manufacturer’s part number, the manufacturer being FEBEST. I think the Land Rover PN is QMN500230 (or LR071147 QMN500250 QMN500230).
I do like a good snuggle. But I imagine my wife might be a little frustrated sharing the bed with something else and its been a while since I slept on the floor. 😛
Its pretty clean now but I will probably deploy the hair dryer method. Worse case the shop I occasionally work out of has a few barrels of barrels of Iso for parts washing, so maybe I can grab a gallon when I'm there next.
My guess is that the slowness comes from database performance.
For me, only the 'unread content' page is consistently very slow - between 9 and 10 seconds to load.
Other pages (individual threads) are sometimes slow, but normally OK.
The 'unread content' page is more complex that most of the other pages I imagine- it could involve an unoptimised join in the database or the join happening outside the database (specifically, on the webserver).
Always easier putting in a clean tank than removing a dirty one.
Only looks like they have L?
Good advice above. Modern cars (not yours) have gaskets between electrical connectors. If you get water inside your connections like to the AFM etc you could create a short across a terminal. If the voltage is enough you could damage something like the ECU. Disconnect the battery before you do anything. You can power wash with care to avoid these connections. I power washed the heck out of my engine but it wasn’t running at the time and I let it sit in the sun and dry before connecting the battery. You can also pull connectors post wash use compressed air to blow out the water on the connections. You have to avoid the distributor for sure. Water will pool in the bottom and you won’t be able to start it. I like brake cleaner and simple green. Brake cleaner disperses water and has chlorine and evaporates quickly. I go Simple Green. Let is soak for 15 mins the lightly spray off with water. Get a bag of rags and wipe everywhere you can and follow it up with the brake cleaner. Cleaning the engine bay is a process. Get the big stuff and then over time focus one one areas and progress. Will take days or weeks to get it really clean but you need to get the caked off grime to get headed in the right direction and power washing with care in those areas (like oil pan and lower block areas) will help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
280 OEM Cam Core - For regrinding purposes
Nothing fancy or pretty needed - just something I can have cut to new specifications.
Specifically need one that is internally oiled.
Thanks for the functional pic's @CanTechZ I agree completely the intention was to exhaust the cabin pressure / flow. I was only stating there was no direct path between the two points.
To @Zed Head's point making some seals is the only option going forward.
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