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Check valve lash. You sound like you have a noisy lifter or two. I don't think its an exhaust leak...

I would argue that the steel used was excellent. Just look at how well the blocks hold cross hatching. The problem with the early cars wasn't the steel, it was the complete absense of any rust prevention. They didn't start galvanizing bodies until 78 or so??? A modern car would get a full passivatin dip, so thats not a problem. Also modern cars use a wide range of exotic alloys to make them light but pass crass test. So not a significant issue. Also most modern cars are mono coupes, no frames anymore...

@Muzez I just picked up a 280ZX and has the exact same problem, unable to shift into reverse. 1 - 5 feel fine. Was there anything specific that allowed you to get to reverse? Did you fiddle with the lockout mechanism? Or when you removed the gearbox did it just come good somehow? Thanks!

Ha! Yeah this is part of the newest software update. Badges and ranking system. I will add more just for the fun of it. 😉 We need more badges for anniversaries, subscribers, and other fun stuff. Let me know if you have any ideas. And I do like the idea of changing the name to "Flair" ... haha m

We had a thread not too long ago about the 73 fuel gauge. Read through this for some ideas and watch the video of the bench test that is linked in the thread.

Makes sense. Do you think that clutch will work for my Z if I do a 5speed swap? Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Terrapin Z- Thanks. I will first search for the original hole in the dash and give it a try. If it works it will be much easier that I thought. Appreciate your effort.

I'm , as you know, also busy in the engineroom and i know that i many years ago also took out the tray out of the 240z. I didn't weld it back.. in stead i took a set of big steel selftapping screws. That way i can always take it out as it is a bit of a fragile spot!

Wonder what the thinking was with the big hang overs front and rear. Was it something to do with aero leverage? If so it would result in sensitive aero setups due to that leverage.

Analog would work too, really...

When I did my set of Toyota calipers I seem to remember having to notch the backing plate about a 1/4 inch.

I don't care for the comments from the peanut gallery of restorers on these auctions either, especially regarding current valuations, or future valuations, or costs to restore. It is a good entertainment experience to see a nice car or one that is a nice restoration candidate, presented well in the media supplied by the seller, and to see an engaged seller answering questions from interested buyers.

I use Sata jet 3000 HVLP for my standard gun and I have a minijet 4 for small projects. Before using Sata, I would always dread painting because I never knew what I was going to run into. After switching, I find painting enjoyable😀. My brother in law, who is a professional painter said that he tried out the high end HF gun and it is surprisingly good. Cant beat it for $220. The other key is to have contstant air supply pressure. If you don't already have one, invest in an air regulator.

It was a slow day in the office today so I figured I would make good use of it and pull the motor and trans. The benefits of working from home🤣 I have off tomorrow so I'll continue the disassembly through the weekend. For some reason I can't upload photos anymore? Error -200? Any suggestions?

I just came across this video with what seems to be an unbiased comparison of helicoils, timeserts and key locking type inserts. It's very long but shows some interesting results. I won't spoil it for you. Lol Cheers, Mike

Thanks that makes sense! Great idea to have a surefire way of the carpets fitting. If a 240z carpet isnt a good fit in a 280z I'll follow that route. Edit: I think I found a good solution. Zspecialties has a 5 piece kit: 2 front carpet pieces, 2 underseat, 1 rear cargo deck carpet. Seems to be just what I am looking for. They even have sewn bound edges and they have a high quality dense padding glued to them!

Any updates on how the kit has held up over the past 2 years?

This is the configuration that I’m planning on for my ‘75 280Z. Well, once I free up some time to put my close ratio ZX 5-speed back together. I’m still trying to decide if I want to spring for a LSD upgrade to my stock diff.

I just disassembled the N47 intake manifold off of the head, and started to work on the rest. Then discovered about 4 days later about the specific details around emissions. It was a pain! The sale is currently pending, with a down payment. Now looking for a 240z!

Cleaning up the engineroom was my last task on the 280zx, and it's slowly taking place.. I'm rarely in the garage to work on it.. my gas heater is broken down and with these natural gas prices.. I'm busy with electric heaters.. And for the time i have no solar collectors.. thats also expensive..(High electric bill.) As energy prices overhere also exploded we are all in the race for those solar collectors! And YES also made in Holland is an option! So i'm more often seen behind my pc..pfff.. Also my energy level is a bit low these days.. So i looked up my 240z and 280zx op Hagerty's and it seems that the 280zx is following the 240z's lines.. (I restored my 280zx just in time it seems!! ) Datsun 240z 1971... Datsun 280zx.. Double the price in one year!! My 240z is not an "excellent" car but i have more than enough parts to make it that way already in storage for years.. I finally assembled the engine in October.. was to sick to do anything in November.. Here some pics of the result. Still hanging upside down.. Inlet plus injection.. underside Taking out the old broken bolts with a good heatup by welding it... it was a easy job! New bolts installed with some red (very tight) lock-tite. And some new self locking nuts. Assembled the under the hood light also.. At this time the engine is ready to go back into the engineroom, i have to clean that up first, paint the inner fenders and just give it a good clean for the rest of the parts, most are already done. As it is a daily driver it has a black anti rust bottom and i leave that as it is, also on the lower beams in the engineroom. (I took off a bit of it from a brakeline and... surprise surprise.. the olive green ORIGINAL Nissan brake line paint came out looking brand new!)

i like 280 up (or 82 or what ever it is, gets confusing with so many shared rd numbers) from tifton all the way to phenix city. nice divide hiway, very low traffic (until you get to columbus anyway) interesting sites (like the little grand canyon) along the way. just have to watch out for the dear esp around ft benning.

PETG, it has good resistance to gasoline and should be ok with the temps, if it has issues then i can switch materials and resolve it. i’m currently soaking a sample part in E10 gasoline for a few days to see how it reacts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I just snapped one of those off while trying to remove my front bumper and the cosmetics that go along with it. Always surprised these things hold together as well as they do with soft fasteners.

Tuners probably have a tail pipe o2 sensor that they use while tuning, and and then they can feel out how the car is reacting while test driving. But having a number there really takes all the guess work out of how the engine is burning while you drive. When i got mine it was one of those "why the **** did it not do this sooner". Maybe the shop can install one for you if you don't have a welder.

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