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  1. Past hour
  2. I'll put one in the mail for this endeavor tomorrow Cap'tn.
  3. Today
  4. If you want results from within only one site, use site: followed directly by the site URL you wish to use. You must include the site's domain, i.e. Google Photos tips and not Google Photos tips site: pcmag. Use the search intitle: to look for words in the webpage title. For example grasshoppers intitle:gross will only return sites about grasshoppers that have "gross" in the title. Conversely, allintitle: will only return links with multiple words in the title, i.e. allintitle: cow meat yummy. Similar to the intitle: function, you can search only in the URL using inurl: or allinurl: example you can serach url through
  5. Nicely done Mart.. Windscreen seems a pain in the arse... You will get it sorted out soon. You should sell the 300zx tt and restore a 240 😲 I'm still not done with my cars either, will I ever be ?
  6. +1 for Flipping the rear vent tube. This would make replacement of that hose a lot easier. Great job though and the price seems very reasonable to me.
  7. View Advert S30 strut-brace bars Taking orders now for my S30 super-lite strut-bars, available in August. Lightest on the market not forgetting that 'light is right' ! 5% off the parts' price for the first 50x orders*. *8x firm orders already placed as at Independance Day. US$260 £212 CAN$358 AUS$381 Kits so far are : front and rear bars front bar only New nuts and washers for the strut tops front and/or rear Price list in multiple currencies attached. Later, new front and rear caps will be available for S30s and S130s along with a bar kit for the S130s. Advertiser Sean Dezart Date 07/05/2020 Price $260.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  8. Thanks for the heads up. I know you do a lot of background "maintenance". Just wanted to let you know we appreciate it😀.
  9. Yesterday
  10. A stiff long board should take care of those soft areas.
  11. Am I the only one waiting for Alan's book to be published to correct the many mistakes made by other authors about Z history, models etc? It's kinda fun in the cheap seats and the peanut gallery but it's still the peanut gallery and the cheap seats. I'm serious, i would pay good money for a book you would author Alan, if you would.
  12. Pull the bleeder screw all the way out and stick a bit of solid wire (something stiff and very small diameter) in there. There may be some corrosion just beyond where the bleeder seats.
  13. I thought you had to have throttle wide open on a hot engine for an accurate compressions test? It needs to breath between pressure readings right? Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  14. I've come across suggested Weber setups by cylinder cc and I'm curious if people have had success when starting with suggested textbook values? The only published Datsun specific values I've found are for 2.4L/2.6L and my L28 has a stroker kit making it 3.0L with the extra lift. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  15. I made a pdf with a lot of this info 4 or 5 years ago. I'll have a look for it and see if it needs updating and upload it to the tech section. It had all the clutch part numbers and most of the dimensions.
  16. I'm going to assume the floats are set correctly and the mixture screws are about 2 1/2 turns down, correct me if I'm wrong. Try lifting both carb pistons and drop them at the same time. They should be very difficult to lift but should drop at a much faster rate. Both should feel the same when you lift them and they should land at the same time or nearly so. Compare the piston heights when it's idling, accelerating and at about 3000 rpms.
  17. I'm pretty sure they stopped the sale of it here in Ontario but I see it is available again with an environmental tax on it now.
  18. Is the car level? If the back end is high you might have overfilled, the fluid is sitting in the front of the case. Or if it's tilted sideways, the fill hole might be high. I've always used less than the capacity shown because of fluid that didn't drain out. I always lift both front and back end also to keep things level.
  19. Last week
  20. My feb '71, 240z has the same coil. still working now for 49 years..
  21. From what I've seen of your car builds, they're just gorgeous! They only problem I'd have with them is I would be afraid to drive them. Carry on!
  22. Thank you sir. - glad to be of service. BTW, found an even cheaper solution on eBay. A Datsun 720 or 620 sensor would have also done the trick at £28 posted!! I would bet my left testicle* that the ohms will be the same on all these sensors as the main unit is identical, just the float and bends are different. (* not ever planning to have kids again, this is an easy bet! In fact, don’t do it gang!!! Dodge that bullet and live longer, happier, wealthier lives! But that sounds very similar to my S30 ownership too!! [emoji848] Maybe I should just go back to bed and stop prattling on.)
  23. I had the same thing happen! That's when it broke loose though and the car came back down. I now have a Bernzomatic torch head that works with those cheap green propane camping bottles. They get hot enough for my needs.
  24. I have heard that a lot about PU bushings, why I bring it up when folks start talking about upgrades to suspension. Really depends on what you what, for me since my plans are 0% performance driving, and mostly long distance trips, I wanted to keep it a quiet as possible. I replaced the OE cat back with the cheapo standard size one sold for something like 80$ delivered. it was a tad long, but other than that an easy bolt on operation and keeps the exhaust noise to a very low level. New window rubber keeps the wind noise out. Its no lexus but its not that far off from one either.
  25. I hope you succeed, dmuzial! I’m ready to buy, yesterday!
  26. Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart!
  27. Project Update: Finally got all of my new parts in and am starting reassembly this week! Replacing the worn out struts first. Went to pull the first one last night and the entire thing came out in pieces. Sprayed the whole bench with oil when it came apart 😞 . No idea what brand these are because there are no markings or part numbers whatsoever. Is it still best practice to backfill the strut housing with oil to prevent rust? And if yes, what kind of oil is recommended?
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