- Past hour
I always get the phrase "You ain't from around here, are ya boy?
Cliff knows the interpretation - ya better state your business before I introduce you to my Winchester.
Sounds like you have quite a bit to get done. Just set up a cot in the shop and order in food. You only really need 4 hours of sleep and since there's 24 hours in every day, you'll have plenty of time. 😁
I removed the oil pan to have a look at the big end bearing on cylinder 3 and check the end float (I was worried about piston slap.)
No metal shavings or anything shiny looking.
I wiggled all of the other big ends while I was at it, and number 4 also moved a bit more than the others, although checking with a feeler still under .3mm. It's an L28 block.
So I removed number 4 and noticed that the bearing had a groove down the middle unlike number 3.
From pictures in the manual, I know that main bearings have that groove and big end bearings are smooth.
Would this cause an issue?
Now I'm gonna have to dig through my storage shed and find my OEs.
I have a '72 so I'd like to know.
Thanks for the tips, guys. Made a deal with Woody for the part. Can't wait for it to arrive!
I working on a restoration of 73 240z. Although I'm not trying for a concourse restoration I'm trying to keep it as much as possible original looking. It appears one of the previous owners did most the body work with an axe and a truckload of bondo. As I work my way around the vehicle repairing and replacing body panels, I do not know how the original panels were assembled. Currently I'm working on replacing the rear panel below the tail light panel and the rear corner panels that connect quarter panel to the rear panel. My questions are: does the corner panel mount on top of the rear pan
Unfortunately, no. I am too busy to make it this year.
I used a place in Ft. Wayne Indiana called Reckon Plating. I liked the fact they were local and within driving distance to me (I live in Valparaiso). They did a great job and they answer the phone when you call with a real live person. I'm working on a 73 240Z, I had them do the front and rear bumpers, the rear over bar and the bolts. It cost me about $1200. They'll do and estimate if you send them pictures and descriptions (length, width, height, etc.). Just be aware the the actual cost once they actually see the parts will likely be more than the estimate. A lady that worked there, S
I've seen the KD tool on ebay from time to time.
After causing a race DNF and a lot of money, I learned that the crank damper bolt needs Loctite. It can and sometimes will come loose and destroy the engine. I also learned that stock L-Jetronic EFI does not play well with an aftermarket cam. If you want stock EFI, stick with the stock cam. If you want a performance cam, go with carbs or a modern EFI.
I get this stuff at Lowes or Tractor supply for less than $40. Spray cabinet for small stuff or a big plastic tub or a tarp on the ground for the big stuff lets me reuse it many times after sifting it through a Walmart sifter.
Yep, seems redundant to me as well. But... I 'm not a Nissan engineer in 1969 trying to get on top of emissions.
Thanks for the replies, guess I’ll look for a locksmith or a pipe stretcher…. The new one works fine, it just doesn’t look as good.
Yes, I have some spares…. At least they are shiny, most have rust pitting but not enough to affect strength.
The threads at the bottom end of those pins are just M12x1.25. Easy to find a washer and nylock or Stover lock nuts.
Send me a PM, we’ll get what you need on the way.
Made that, 1" dia Oak dowel with a hole drilled in the center and a threaded metal insert epoxied inside. I made it on a lathe but it could easily be made on a drill press too.
It's then the thickness of the liquid that makes it overheating. I agree. But let one thing be also clear, a brass/copper made radiator will always be better than a aluminum one ! Brass/copper is always a better cooler than a aluminum (or aluminium) one. Only in this case of thinner (Normally also better) tubes makes it worse..
A copper radiator with bigger tubes would be the best of all. ( Sorry but .. I personally hate that alu junk .. not in my car! esp. those chinese junk rads..)
Can anyone help with a couple of Zcar magazine back issues?
I'm missing the following;
Vol 1 #2 (Jan/Feb 1995)
Vol 2 #3 (Fall 1996)
Pic is for reference only & not the ones I'm looking for.
I also have several doubles I'm selling if anyone is interested.
Today's episode is "While I'm at it..."
Since the seats are still out of the car, I figured it would be a good time to replace the center console with one I've had lying about for 8 years or so. I removed the console and removed the ash tray cover. The cover was pretty dirty, so while I'm at it, it would be good to clean it. I transferred the clean cover to the replacement console, and then I proceeded to remove the outer shift boot. Well, it was pretty old, and some of the threads broke. Then I looked at the rubber shift boot. It was torn. While I'm at it, I might as well find the replac
Yes, the fuses are in the same locations.
The outer labels on the stock fuse box cover (Acc, Ign, Bat, Ammeter) give the power source.
Very nice documentation and good pix of the A/C installation. Too bad that portion couldn't be lifted in total and pasted into this forum topic group.
Datsun/ Nissan Z posters.
13X19" Glossy heavy weight photo paper. Free shipping within the continental U.S. These are arrangements of my personal drawings.
Woman talks to ex on phone while new boyfriend practices guitar...
Thanks, I also find it interesting to reflect on the design and assembly techniques that were used by Nissan, as the technicians assembling our cars would surely have been under pressure to get things done quickly. This one of the reasons I have been going slowly with the disassembly process. Taking the time to smell the roses, so to speak.
Is the distribution unit still available?
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