Topics Last Week

I have dealer installed AC. So it's behind that beast! Darn

Several good excuses to come down to the Atlanta area in your Z: The Mitty - Vintage racing weekend at Road Atlanta on the last weekend in April https://hsrrace.com/themitty2022/ Fall Historics - More HSR vintage racing at Road Atlanta https://hsrrace.com/fallhistorics2022/ Z Nationals - I usually just go to the track day on Friday when the show is at Z1 Motorsports. With their expansion, they don't have space on their grounds for more cars. This year track day is at Atlanta Motorsports Park. https://www.znationals.com/

. . . and mom is from Beaver Falls. Hah.

I looked yesterday for bcdd threads with you in it but couldn't find any with sage advice on the process...

Hey, good tip, thanks!

Holy cats, will check that out ASAP. Thanks.

I appreciate all of this info, guys - learning a lot here in a short time. priceless!

Well after hours of reading over numerous attempts and lots of admiring of z parts porn photos I finally got through this build thread! what a journey and very enjoyable, Loved seeing all the cool parts you've collected and don't want to know how much you've spent on them all! cant wait to see more progress on your build. Ryan

Easiest way to gain the right clearance on the rear gear is to add a shim between the large washer (in your photo you are holding it with your finger and thumb). If you buy the thin brass shim stock you can cut a washer with a good pair of scissors. Add the shim stock to the gear side of the washer to add clearance. When I'm home I will take some photos of what I mean with Plastagauge and how to use it on the bearing.

Last year to be build in Japan. 83 changed to Nissan and built in the US. Dutch you would fit in a King Cab

Charles, I will get a list together and give him another shout. Thanks.

This past weekend, I finally felt it was appropriate to do some wet sanding. Up to this point, I have done all body work sanding dry, with grits of sandpaper including 80, 120, 180, 240 and 320. Mostly, I have used 80 grit and then 120 grit on body filler. And mostly, I have been using 180 grit for everything else. I have been using 240 grit and 320 grit on fender lips and other areas which require more precision, such as where the forward edge of the body belt line terminates on the front fender. Truthfully, I have likely been too conservative in that regard. I have learned a lot about doing body work, as I knew I would. I just wish I could have learned faster. Anyway, it was exciting to do some wet sanding. For wet sanding, I am going over the whole car with 240 grit first. As I go, I am seeing small areas which will need a bit more primer filler. However, I am seeing the end of bodywork on this car coming... finally. I am trying to make sure my belt line is consistent and sharp. I don't believe I will keep it this sharp when it is to be sprayed with color, but I think it is a lot easier to round off a consistent, sharp line to achieve a consistent finished shape than to attempt to round off a line that is not entirely consistent, if that makes sense. Right side front fender (pics 1,2,3: front to back, back to front, back portion of fender close up of beltline): (pics 4,5, and 6: middle portion of fender close up of beltline, front portion of fender close up of beltline, close up of termination of beltline At the termination point above the wheel well opening, the belt line dips downward a touch. That should be easy to fix (to be made straight instead of dipping down) by wet sanding the area that still has guide coat on it. I just need to be careful there.

Started clearing brush yesterday. Got the ZX free, and half of one of the 280Zs exposed. Six more to go. I stopped to take a break, texted Mrs. Racer some progress pictures, then went into the shop to take a break. Had a race on the TV. A few minutes passed, and I heard what sounded like someone in distress. Turns out Mrs. Racer was coming out to see the progress, slipped and fell on the back porch steps, and broker her lower leg/ankle. I had to call the aid car, they hauled her to hospital, and we were up all night. Now I am missing work to get her into see an orthopedic surgeon. Good times, eh?

You’re welcome!

After a little research, I would concur with your assessment.

@SteveJ Thank you. That makes a lot more sense now.

So I think I may have it sorted out. Don't want to speak too soon though... I installed an extra fuel filter inline next to the tank. I also installed a new primary fuel filter and the new fuel sender unit, o-ring and lock ring. I had to re-solder one of the connectors and use the heat gun on the rubber boots to get them soft enough to push over the terminals. I also blew out all the fuel lines with my air compressor turned down to 40-50 psi or so. Started the car after a bit of cranking to fill the filters, and it seemed to run...OK. Still missing and hunting somewhat, but I got it into a state where I could drive it around the neighborhood. After some more tinkering, it was alright, but then it died again the way it did last week. I coasted into the driveway and pulled the top off the rear carb fuel bowl: Dry as a bone. 😡 Really frustrating, but then I noticed that I forgot to put a hose clamp on the fuel pump inlet line. Also, it was kind of loose. I wonder if the fuel pump had been sucking air, creating a kind of vapor lock condition in the fuel lines? Regardless, I put a clamp on it, and the car seemed to run a lot better. I was able to drive it down the road a little ways and it didn't threaten to die at any time. I didn't want to get greedy so I came home and decided to wash it. It's the first bath it's had in almost 20 years. The paint cleaned up really well and looks fantastic; the painters did a great job with it. There are a couple of tiny water leaks but nothing major. I don't plan to drive it in the rain anyway. Current engine bay status: Yes, that's blue painter's tape protecting the left shock tower from getting scratched by the air filter wingnut.

I noticed that too. Plus they edited in footage from behind the car but didn't change the soundtrack. The guy said that he took four trips down the mountain to get the footage. Pretty sure I heard a gear grind in the video also. I think that they just over-produced on the video. It's in the "collector" zone, early car, very original, etc. Collectors don't want to see people beating on their dream car.

No doubt that's what was involved in making it, but both Izumi and Nissan called them 'Wood Rim Steering Wheels' so I think it fair to follow suit. So, high-pressure moulded, heat-cured, oriented strand wood fibre (quite a mouthful), but certainly 'wood'.

Sounds about right. Nice work.

I have lowering springs so there really isn't any spring compression when the car is in the air or when the strut assemblies are not mounted.

That shouldn't be ok though I'd think, right? Guessing it's at least a sign of it needing to be replaced sooner rather than later, no?

I can tell you I have see both the prothane is much harder then the hyperflex. The hyperflex bushings I saw were not for a 240z but they seemed much softer witch is what I’d prefer

Anyone have any idea if these are new shocks for the 240z seems like there not by instructions saying to drill the top hat curious if anyone knows the part number or possibly what vehicle they fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/313860725388?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zvNvzpoxQie&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5tQC030BQXm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Of course, your good links are not the only ones available, but the point is the same; as you have aptly noted, this could be anyone's tale of woe from a direction that few could, or should, have any reason to expect. As for comparos, the telling shot would be end to end, to see the difference in clocking gear to drive tang. But of course, one can tell that from the dist. end with the shaft still in place, when you know what to look for.