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Okay, I tested all those connection. First us3 the continuity setting the the the resistance to verify the actual ohms. - Black wire on dash harness side to ground shows “short”. With a reading of 1.2 ohms, - Blue white (LW) on dash harness to neg post of coil. Shows “open” with 2.23 k ohms - Then tested Bluw White (LW) on diagram to the resistor and it shows “short” with .3 ohms - other side of resistor to neg coil post shows “short” with . 3 ohms -resistor itself tests ar 2.2 kOhms -when I put a jumper where the resistor it goes I get a” short” reading with 1.6 ohms This all looks correct to me. Of note the thee gauge lights to the tachometer do not illuminate with all the other lights on the dash. New bulbs in there also.

I’ve been lurking for months now, just learning. It’s a 72 240z. Bought about a year ago and slowly getting it back in shape. Did the usual rust repair in the dog legs. Added a mild cage so my chances of dying in a mild accident are lesser [emoji6] And now just trying to get the panels fitted properly before heading off to paint. Just ordered lower fender patch panels from KF vintage because mine are beat to death. Goal is to just have a good daily driver. Here’s a pic of the car when I first got it and at present. Yes, it looked more complete in the first pic, but there was a lot hiding under that paint… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah Eiji said it sounds normal too. I appreciate the reassurance. I'll just drive it and enjoy it.

I have an air/fuel gauge on here and it sits at 13.8 at idle which is pretty standard. Cruise is 14.2-14.7 depending on speed and WOT is around 11ish.

Have you checked all the grounds? Among others, I am pretty sure there is a ground under the car in the area of the right tail light. I have found loose grounds will make for some weird electrical issues.

Y'all were right I had the wrong numbers! Getting Old...bad Eyes. Laughs.

That's very kind of you Kats. Thank you. Japanese engineering of the 19th and 20th centuries is a fascinating topic, mixed up with all kinds of politics and social history. A period of rapid changes with extreme highs and lows. I am intrigued by it.

Hey, I have a 1973 240z and I have what I believe is the original key. I wanted to get a replacement made and the code on the key is just a 4 digit number (5XXX) with no prefix. I thought the keys generally had a prefix for the type of cut? The key does work on everything (ignition, both doors, glove box, and trunk) I took a look and there is no glove box code sticker. I attached a picture of the key (with a repro blank I was hoping to use) to show the style (and edited it a bit to remove the last 3 code digits and some of the key length) Any idea what might be up? The key is super worn so I was hoping to avoid having a duplicate made directly from the key

Follow up to this. I removed the front carb and recentered the butterfly ever so slightly to make it close completely. There was a very slight gap on the bottom half of the butterfly plate. You really couldn't see it unless you put the carb up to the light and looked through. I didn't think it would make a difference, but sure enough it did. The car will now idle as low as I like.

That was probably a really good buy

They are hand made, one at a time. The color does seem off but Steve is very obsessive about making accurate reproductions. I feel confident the color is correct. He would be my first choice if you can figure out shipping.

Last knob I had that problem with, I filled the inside with RTV silicone. Changed the weight and I think the elastomeric properties of the silicone helped damp the resonance.

Well, I think it blended nicely. I took the switch out of that car so I could look at it and possibly incorporate a similar one in the future. I’ll have to dig it up. I think if it were a black rocker switch it would be very discrete.

If you follow the date code : 3C = March 1973 GLWS

I'm trying to achieve nearly "perfect panels" on the 240z I am restoring. I had many months where I couldn't move forward because the hardware was off to be plated. Recently, I received the fender bolts, washers, etc. So, I have mounted the fenders. I used close cell foam in the locations that the factory used foam strips on the inner fender support and backside of the fender. Interestingly, this weather stripping caused the flat expanse of the fender behind the front wheel wheel to bow out slightly. Something I have learned with these cars is that the sheet metal "moves" in various areas, either from foam supports behind, or from tightening down the fasteners. I absolutely do not recommend doing bodywork on the fenders or cowl panel while off the car. A couple of videos showing the latest progress:

I'll go ahead and step aside here. Get a meter or test light and leave the key at Start. Start probing. Good luck.

View Advert ISO Oil Spray Bar (E88 Head) Looking for a good, useable oil spray bar for a '71 with an E88 head Advertiser Tweeds Date 05/22/2022 Price $50 Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z  

Hi , this is the front windshield for S30 series cars . 72631-E4100 is a tinted glass which was applied to all S30 cars except PS30-SB ( Fairlady Z432-R ) and 1969 HLS30 and HS30 .There might be some exceptions . I checked the secret codes , this windshield could be made either February 1974 or 1984 or 1994 or 2004 or 2014 . The part number label is not the earliest type for S30 series cars . Also it is not the later type . So I guess this could be made either 1984 or 1994 . Kats

Hey 87mj! I only live about 4 miles from Gas City speedway. Update: Saturday I checked float level and set them a 9/16. Pulled both carbs to verify the throttle blades were closing all the way. Reinstalled both carbs but left off all the linkage including choke cables. Fired it up and had to actually turn the idle screws to get it to idle at 800 rpm. Reinstalled all the linkage and still have good idle so evidently it was linkage related but I can’t see anything different. Time to start putting some miles on it!

While reviewing @zed2's thread on unchained vs. chained gas caps I spotted @26th-Z's comment about undated supercedes on that item. I recalled seeing a similar catalog notation on door lock assemblies while recently doing research for a friend. Today I was cleaning up some door lock assemblies and spotted a unicorn the probably confirms the timing of this particular supercede (80501-E4100, undated supercede 80503-E4100). The lock on the left is a left side unit, date coded 9 - 7, it has two clock-style coil springs, Note the position of the long arm is down on the smaller spring. The unit on the right is also a left side unit, date coded 9 - 11. It has only one clock-style spring with a different shape and positioning. The other major change is the elimination of the clock-style spring for the primary latch in favor of a tubular coil spring. This type spring is on all later dated units I have. Differences in the pin stamps can be seen in the second pic. Another difference I spotted: internal bumpers for the various levers were clear plastic on the early unit, black plastic or rubber on the later units. Unfortunately I have only the one 9 - 7 unit, no matching right side.

View Advert 1973 240Z Pedal Assembly I'm after a manual pedal assembly for a 1973 240Z. It needs to be a 1973 with the wider booster spacing, not one from the earlier 240Z models. Willing to pay for shipping. Thanks Advertiser Modern240 Date 05/22/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240Z  

Ah...Here you go. 17251-E4101 is the original filler cap superseded without date by 17251-E4102 (with chain). The filler neck 17212-E4101 changed to E4102 with it, but again, no date listed in the parts book. The rubber flap, 78818-E4100 is the only listing. My cars have the flap. I still have a brand new one that I bought in 2013. It is labeled E4100.

Well so far I've only knocked out the driver's side and haven't tried fitment of that front left fender yet. But that is a good point and I will check into that. For my car, that area of the rocker was completely rotted away so there wasn't anything mechanically holding it on (I used magnets). That and the tab on the fender itself had also rusted off. So I figure it can only be better in my case lol. On the passenger side we will have to be more careful. I'll try and get a picture when I check fitment for the driver's side fender..

TO: Terrapin, 26th-Z, CanTech Z, Dave Thank you ever so much fellows! Your input will be of great help. Happy Motoring, Richard

I used Rivnuts to attach my flares. The curvature of the flare brings the top edge of the fire snug with the fender. There are a couple places where I could insert s sheet of paper snuggly between flare and fender, but I believe that is more due to irregularities in the flare or the fender. A solution to eliminate even the smallest gap is to run a section of vintage VW Bug fender welting between flare and fender. I had initially planned to do that, but was pleased with how closely the flare fit to the body without it. The welting is wide and you would need to cut triangular shaped pieces out of the lower part to facility bending/curving and leaving a gap for the attaching screw that goes into the Rivnut. Here's a link: https://www.jbugs.com/product/6730.html?utm_content=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBiqriBdDnm73bShSLTwe7wbl9b8efluH6ub93oOYRCG-rVc4Rjo2tAaAmZ9EALw_wcB