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About My Cars

Found 240 results

  1. jdking

    Field-Find 3 Datsun 240Zs

    Where: Southern New Jersey. USA I have 3 pretty rotten but complete(mostly) 240Z cars. The two yellow ones are both early 1970 models. The silver is a 1972. I have both front fenders/wings and grill. All are manual trans and have complete stock drive trains. They have been sitting out in the New Jersey elements for over 25 years. I also have a couple of doors, hatches, a hood, and brand new front fender/wings that are in a dry storage container. I have a few spare blocks, heads, transmissions, rear diffs, etc. I would like to sell this as one complete deal. If I had time I'd just break apart the cars and sell the parts myself, but that is not a project I need right now. I think the lot is worth $5,000 but I'm open to options, ideas, trades. Only contact me if you are truly interested. Thanks, JD
  2. Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
  3. Stunning Body Style, which was how Nissan originally designed the 240z. However the safety laws in the United States became stricter and the 240z was only built as a Fastback with a hatch (that commonly leaked in the rain and caused many 240zs to rust out in the back). Fiberglass kits were sold years ago to turn the 240z into a convertible. This is one of those cars. Originally sold in San Diego, it went to Utah. I bought it 10 years ago off Craigslist. During that time I got it running and made it safe to drive. It is registered legally in California. Because it is a 1973, it does not require a Smog Certificate ever. This car has the L28 (280z) engine with its matching 5-speed transmission. It has the stock SU Carburetors with the stock air cleaner and electronic ignition. It has a brand new super high-output Optima Yellow Top battery. The interior is gutted. It has rust in the center of the car underneath (not inside) but is completely clear with no rust at all from (and including) the firewall forward and from the back of the seats rearward. If you want to replace the frame rails then here is where you purchase new ones http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1 . The body has bracing to strengthen it throughout. There is a front upper strut tie bar. The previous owner made a lattice brace to tie the rear struts for structural strength. The fiberglass kit does not allow easy access and I would have modified it. With the weight of the Fastback metal removed this car, unmodified, is faster than most 240zs. It is right at the point where someone needs to complete this project. I have decided to not complete the project that I have started on this because I wanted to make this my Daily Driver. I do not want to sell it but it is too far away to complete the project, so I have decided to go in a different direction. This car will only be available during this month. Next month I will not need the money for my next purchase and then it will never be for sale again. If you have ever wanted something that nobody else has then this is your car. It starts and runs perfectly. Headlights work. Brakes are stock and work fine. It is wicked fast and stunning.
  4. mklyons

    Dashboard Repair Guide

    Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark
  5. Selling many cars and parts. This is just the start. There will be more cars and parts eventually added. So many parts and cars to go through. Some are merely parts cars and some are builders. These are pick up or buyer responsible for shipping. We cannot ship parts or cars to you. If you are looking for certain items you can call or message and we will find out if we have it or not. Very extensive collection of parts being sold. So your patience is appreciated. 1974 260Z $2000 Has 1/74 build date, 4 barrel intake, Holley carb, ceramic coated header, motor, Repairable car, needs work or use as a donor. No seats, some rust, small bumper 260, Orange color. 1972 240Z parts car $500 Has 9/71 build date, parts car or donor car. Rough and has rust. Has some interior. Still has usable parts and metal. Orange color. 1983 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 11/82 build date, mostly complete, w/ motor, 5 speed. Silver color. 1974 260Z $1500 Mostly complete, 4 barrel, 4 speed, w/ motor, has rust, builder or donor car for parts. 1979 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 5 speed, w/ motor, blue and silver color. 1978 280Z automatic $3000 Automatic, complete car, has air dam, rear spoiler, side skirts, headlight covers, better condition, may have minor rust. This car is in building couldn't inspect it completely. This was running when parked years ago and has sat. Black color. 1978 280Z $3000 5 speed, mostly complete, w/ motor, has ZX seats, air dam, fiberglass molded to body fender flares not completely finished, This is also in a shed and couldn't be fully inspected yet. Also ran when parked years ago. Gray primer color. 1974 260Z 2+2 $2000 Comes with another 2+2 parts car. Will post more info on this car later. Forgot to inspect it. 1990 Z32 $1500 has all parts, some removed, new set of headlight buckets, automatic, ran when parked, burgandy color. w/ title 1 Cartech style 4 barrel intake. These bolt to SU intake so you can run a 4 barrel. $125 1 set 1972 240Z bumpers $300 1 set of 1972 240Z front turn signals $150 3 Jim Cook Racing body kits / front fenders/rear quarters and whale tail, NO air dam. $1000 each. There will be more cars and specific parts added to this as we can sort though everything. It will take time to do this. We will try and answer questions as soon as possible. And will check for parts you are looking for. This is a huge collection assembled since the 70's and will require searching for parts. I will edit and update this as cars and parts are added. REMEMBER: We will not be able to ship anything. This is pickup or arrange for shipper to pick up for you ONLY. Also, these cars are not perfect and do have some rust, need repair, or rebuilt or used as donor cars to complete your projects. You can message here or call or text 423-457-2958 423-504-3237
  6. Beginning the installation of a different head (E31) on my 72 stock engine. Are new head bolts a good idea? Non turbo or Turbo? Where would you buy them? Are new studs better than new bolts? Where to acquire the timing chain wedge? Other recommendations are a[appreciated Don.
  7. Hi guys, Just bought a 1973 with a re-done interior and center console in good shape. But there is an empty slot where the choke handle would normally be (car has triple Mikunis so previous owner probably just yanked it). Am out looking for Series 2 240Z choke assembly with handle and cables, wondering if anyone knows if the 260z choke assembly will also work - they look almost identical. Also, anyone know what is supposed to go over the holes to the right of the choke lever slot? Thanks
  8. Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading.
  9. In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.
  10. Blue is now 240260280

    1972 240z Factory Service Manual

    Version

    49 downloads

    1972 240z Factory Service Manual

    Free

  11. Hi folks, I have a stock 1972 240z and the steering shaft is lightly rubbing against the drivers side motor mount. All suspension is relatively new, motor mounts were replaced, the rack and pinion was replaced with a rebuilt unit from CA. Datsun. Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.
  12. I'm about ready to install a new gasket on my intake/exhaust manifolds and I'm looking for some opinions about the use/need for some kind of high temp gasket sealer.
  13. Would like to purchase a stainless steel header for my '72 240Z ... stock engine ... just wanted the longevity of stainless. Unable to find "state side" dealers that sale stainless headers. Anyone have suggestions or contacts? I looked at ZStory (nice product) but by the time I buy it and ship it it's +$700. Someone in the states needs to fill this gap with supplying stainless headers for the s30. Any leads appreciated. Thanks
  14. Guest

    [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    I am looking for a stock survivor/restoration series 1 240Z with matching #'s, preferably grade 4 or 5, to add to my collection of Datsuns/Nissans that ranges from a 67.5 2000 Roadster to modern NISMOs. It's a missing piece in the garage. Documentation is a must and I am willing to pay for quality. I am not looking for a project car, rather one that presents as it should for grade and drives just as well. I live in Florida, but have a network of enthusiast friends/collectors across the country who can inspect/test drive on my behalf and can travel for the right car. I know it is difficult to part with these cars, but I can ensure it would be going to a good home where it will be loved by myself, sons, and generations to come. Respectfully...
  15. AlbatrossCafe

    1" (25mm) wheel wheel spacers (NEW)

    Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  16. DaEviil1

    Help with headlights

    I'll try to give you a little history and my problem. Had the car since 2000 ,put an LS1 /T56 in it plus other mods one being the headlight relay up grade . So I drove the car and wore the motor and decided to redo the whole car . So the car is all fresh now paint ,wheels ,motor , tranny , ect . So my old dash harness was pretty much cut up and I got a clean one from Ebay. So I used my old headlight harness and just spliced into the new one. But now no headlights,parking lights, and the two headlight fusses seem to be grounded . I can't figure out how to fix it . Any help would be greatly appreciated
  17. I have been having issues with my OER SK 40mm carbs. The problem is very elusive and I have not been able to find the source. I will do my best to describe the problem and I am willing to clarify if needed. I am going to refer to carb(#1) as cylinders 1 and 2. Carbs #1 and #3 are perfectly fine, it is carb #2 that is acting up. I started to sync the carbs, first by disconnecting all the linkages. I managed to balance #1 and #3 using an unisyn tool. However, #2 (cylinders 3 and 4) would be run leaner than the others. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws for #2 a few turns, and it leaned out even more resulting in popping out the carb and a nearly white spark plug. Also the #2 would draw a lot more vacuum than #1 and #3, and I unscrewed the idle speed screw for #2 and #2 still ended up drawing a lot more vacuum. #2 has enough vacuum that when I touch the unisync tool on #2 the engine will nearly die and then fuel spills out and then rpm picks up a lot. However, I got the car to idle smooth enough by tuning by ear and I would hold rpm at 2.5k and 3k and the #2 carb would cough and the exhaust would back fire, checking the plugs (cylinder 3,4) they were even whiter than at idle. Meanwhile the other plugs were a nice brown. This issue has bee driving me mad. Issues list: 1. carb #2 runs lean 2. (all linkages disconnected)(speed screw backed off 100% for #2) carb #2 still draws more vacuum that #1 and #3 3. Carb #2, touched unisycn tool the engine nearly dies, fuel drips out of throat, engine speed rises rapidly 4. #2 meaning cyl3,4 mixture screw(1 turn), nearly white plug, all others are a nice tan 5. #2 mixture screw(2 turns), completely white plug, all others are a nice tan 6. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 cough and exhaust back fire 7. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 (plugs 3,4) are bone white, all others are a nice brown 8. no binding in the linkages, linkages move very smoothly 9. Sprayed carb cleaner on all joints and seals, no increase in rpm 10. float levels all set to the same factory settings
  18. trevorgrubb

    new 1972 240z

    I just got a new 1972 240z this past Christmas. I am new to the forum and the car community in general as this is my first car. My dad grubb240z has been on the forum for a while.
  19. Strat067

    1972 240Z Rebuild

    Hi guys/gals, I have had a few people on various posts here and on reddit asking for a full build thread, so I am going to try to make that happen. This will be a documentation of the restoration and modification of my 1972 240Z. This project really started a year ago, so I will give a quick background. After that I will try to post regularly; it may take a week or two to get this thread up to date with the work I have done so far, but it is what it is. Some things will be out of order as I find time. If you want to follow real time then follow me on instagram if you like (d_stratton). Okay - this started in October of 2016 when I got my first 240z. I picked up this car (lets call this "the blue car") for 500 bucks. It was incredibly rusty and dirty 1973 model; it looked like it was parked outside for 20 years. The last tabs where 1988 and it was FILLED with rat/mice poo. But hey, for 500 bucks I got to enter into my dream car since I was a little boy. This turned out to be kind of a gold mine of a parts car - I didn't notice when I bought there was a whole separate dash with all the gauges and two sets of carburetors in the back trunk under a tarp. I disassembled this entire car down to a bare shell and sold quite a few parts off of it. I kept the suspension and the good dashboard from this car as well as some odds and ends. The shell was way to rusted to do anything with, ended up giving it away for free. These are all the pictures I have left of this car; unfortunately all my pictures from this time frame are lost.
  20. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and DO NOT include shipping prices. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Will get you a quote once you let me know where the items are shipping to (I can usually ship pretty cheap from work). Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dAuXnCWC6Tf1iL6HcD1UY-jAl-Lmutxj?usp=sharing Interior Fresh Air Intake Vents (2x Left side and 1x Right side) $10 each Dash Defrost/Vent Set (Everything shown in the pictures) $25 Engine Bay fresh air vent (Left Side) $10 Heater Fan $15 Heater Wiring Harness $15 Heater Controls $20 for the one without knobs, $30 for the one with knobs Heater Control Panels (Both are cracked on top, one on the bottom) $25 each I should have more 240z and 280zx items posted shortly. Chris
  21. he following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and ship FREE in the continental US. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HXipGdIWp2IHk6SfDUrX3aJfp6l_r2HR?usp=sharing Series 2 Fuse Box Cover $40 Series 2 Combo and Turn Signal Switch (Turn signal switch has some cut wires) $100 pair SOLD Fan Switches $20 each Series 2 Hazard Switch $40 Series 1 Antenna Switch $50 Series 1 Cigarette Lighter $40 Inspection Lamps $10 each Assorted Electronics $5 each
  22. Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley
  23. Check out this listing on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/112673464064
  24. CDL1542

    Series 1 Update

    It's been a while since I've posted back on the forum but I wanted to check back in and show some progress of my 11/70 240z. I bought the car about 3 years ago and have done quite a bit of work on it since. I wanted to build a mostly period correct Japanese influenced race car for street use. It's in it's final stages now and I know it might not be some of the purists cup of tea but I know some of you may enjoy it and some of the rare bits and pieces I've compiled together. A lot of time, effort, money and blood and sweat has gone into it so far. This is how the car started, a mostly stock series 1 car with dealer option seat covers and wheels, blown out struts, unreliably dangerous brakes that probably hadn't been touched since 1970 and a tired L24. Still a beauty but needed quite a bit of work. Not a bad place to begin, but over the past 3 years I've slowly transformed it into what I thought the car should have been from the start. Not all of the pictures reflect the current status of the car but I'll post some more when I can. Interior is complete with Competition Bucket seats, T3 harness bar mount with a quick release extinguisher, Watanabe Falcon Steering wheel, Skyline shift knob, new door panels, Z embroidered carpet, rally clock, and some other bits and pieces including a radio delete panel with an AFR gauge cutoff switch and some switches. Also have a competition mirror in there and some other neat bits like a works bell QR. Exterior has gotten a refresh. I chose to keep the number rounds and get rid of the other vinyl that was on there. Straightened the black line along the door as well. Went with flares, a 432 spoiler, air dam and external oil cooler. Wheels are staggered 16x9.5 255/55/r16 rear and a 16x9 225/50/r16 on T3 coilover suspension. Brakes are totally redone with the silvermine stage 3 front and silvermine stage 4 rear (toyota 4 piston and mustang gt) with classictube stainless brake lines, 280z booster and wilwood 1" with wilwood proportioning valve. (ride height is a little high to help get a jack under the air dam. I also went with the zstory exhaust with the over under 432 style exhaust. Went with fender mirrors and note the sport corner sticker and other little bits and pieces! As for the engine, I swapped in a 3.1L stroker with some datsun competition mikuni phh44's. SK intake manifold with OER linkages, Zstory exhaust, Datsun spirit heat shield, JDM big Nissan Valve cover, mishimoto radiator and a bunch of other goodies both performance and dress up. Again, pictures are a little old but give you a good idea. Car's almost done and back on the road after quite a long time, but will get some better and more updated pictures when it is. Here's a side project of mine at the moment for "the next car": Competition 44's on a FET manifold paired with a Kakimoto 3100 cover and technical garage Ti stacks with some OER linkages.
  25. There is this listing on eBay with 100's of new parts most in boxes It states some of the parts numbers are for 620 truck. Would most of them be usable on 240Z i.e. 3/4" vs 7/8 master cylinder
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