Search the Community

Hi all Really looking forward to starting this project and getting all of your input and advice along the way! Im new to this forum, Ive spent lots of time lurking though! I have been posting on the australian forum but traffic is quite low on there so hoping to get quicker input on here. I did also consider hybridz but I think my resto will be more in line with classiczcars as Im not transplanting a V10 into mine... Names Ryan, I am the long time owner of a 1971 240z here in Perth Western Australia. Vin is HS30-001063 I have owned the car for 10 years. When I bought the car it was in rough condition, tried to get it running to enjoy for a while but the previous owner had neglected it too much. So I decided not to waste money or time and wait for a ground up resto. Then it took me 8 years to find a decent space to start the resto (my dads new shed). I started the tear down in late 2018 but then had my son so it went on the back burner for another 1.5 years. Now I am almost finished the tear down and excited to get some real work done. Unfortunately I have another baby due in November! Damn! Lol I have also started a YouTube channel to document the restoration. At the moment they’re pretty boring dismantle videos but I plan to make them better quality and more exciting in the future. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHZhre0vm7sL2Kl7hUQFVkg About the car: History unknown, bought it from a very energetic guy who pretty much ran it into the ground, was completely neglected and unmaintained. I knew I wanted to do a full restomod however, so this was not an issue for me. Car has a L20 engine and may be an originally automatic gearbox, hence the L20 swap and that the gear lever barely lines up with the hole in the trans tunnel. L20 will be thrown in the bin. Car is green originally and has had a terrible quality respray. Car had a relatively minor front end collsion, bent sugar scoop/front bumper support and some light repairs to radiator support Basically everything on the car needs replacing/restoration, nothing is reusable in a sense I can just rebolt it on the restored car. Plans for the car: Due to the car not having the original engine I see no point in going back to stock original. may as well create the car I want, so many things will not be stock - Color change, unsure as to color just yet, was leaning toward white but recently I have been liking safari gold - L28 stroked out - Triple Weber set up but thinking of keeping SU's initially to save some $$$ - BC Coilovers, techno toy tuning 3 point strut brace in front and 3 point apex engineering strut brace in rear - Initially all suspension components will be restored and reused to save $$$ (however I havent ruled out installing some pretty techno toy tuning/ apex engineering components at a later date) - Brake upgrade to front and disc upgrade to rear. not going big brakes as I dont like big rims on the 240z - Custom interior - I am an upholsterer by trade and am going to be doing the interior myself and upgrading some it. Think Alcantara and leather - wheels are undecided but something of the period, watanabes/rotas etc - Fender Mirrors for that classic japanese sports car look - Majority of the chrome will be painted in a satin black, I am not a chrome fan unfortunately.... (I know this will upset many of you) - Exterior besides the lack of chrome will be very stock, no flares etc, thinking about maybe doing a BRE style lower lip air dam thingy Here are some photos just before I started stripping it

Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.

Hi everybody, i'm currently restoring a total wreck of a 240Z and i'm slowing down and it's getting me down. So something I can do now is replace the seat covers and foam which have had rats living on them for over 20years! I looked on the other threads but could find a discussion specific to the quality of the companies now supplying these kind of reproductions. So advice is gladly accepted hahaha. Thanks for your time everyone and hopefully i won't be the only person to gain from the answers! Matt

I need your advice regarding my '72 240Z. Can't get either of my front end strut inserts out of their strut housing after I removed the gland nut. They should just slip out. They do not. Perhaps they are rusted in? I've saturated them in penetrant, heated the housings with a propane torch, tapped the housings with a hammer, and of course pulled on 'em like crazy. Got any ideas for me, please?

I am in the process of developing a game right now, and i want to use the S-chassis as the main vehicle, the problem is i need either very precise and detailed measurements to make a 3d model, or i need a CAD model, would anyone know where i could get such things, for free that is, i would spend money on this, but as this is purely a passion project im not ready to spend 100 bucks on a model that is not accurate. If anyone is wondering i plan to fill the game with tons of different parts,(engine swaps and individual pieces, suspension parts, body parts, some interior bits.) When finished i will post the download link on this thread for anyone that wishes to try it out. Game is not currently licensed so things will be named differently to avoid any legal problems.

View Advert Wanted: 240Z I'm a former owner of two S30 Z cars, looking for another. From PA, but willing to travel for the "right" vehicle. I've been a Z owner since 2004, and sold my '72 240Z in 2015 to help with bills. Now that I am back on my feet, I am looking to return to the Z car once again. Middle-aged enthusiast as well as former mechanic. Advertiser Magus80Mods Date 11/06/2020 Price $15,000.00 Category Cars Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z  

DISCLAIMER: I did this on a '71 240z - I cannot confirm this works for later models. Preliminary Notes: In searching for new weather-stripping, I came across many forum posts recommending late 90's to early 2000's Kia Sportage weatherstrips. In some of the comment sections there was mention of McMaster-Carr, and one thread dedicated entirely to this stripping. I followed exactly what the guy did in his post, so I am ripping him off, however I thought it'd be worth making a post of my own not only to back up his findings, but also to (hopefully) give this weatherstripping a bit more publicity. Now, I originally had Precision's weatherstripping set, however their stuff made it impossible to close the doors, and was a bitch to get on in the first place. I looked into the Kia Sportage, however the weather stripping was discontinued, making it both very hard to find and exceedingly expensive. McMaster-Carr's weathersrtipping is everything you'd want - it's relatively inexpensive, easy to install (no glue required), and well made. I spent $80 in all (for both doors!) not including shipping, and the weatherstipping arrived 1-2 days after order. I may have bought more than I needed, but even so, it cost around half of anything else. Parts Bought: I bought two different kinds of weather-stripping from McMaster-Carr: 25ft of 1120A331 and 10ft of 1120A581. 331 is a bit smaller than the 581, however 331 is too small for the upper parts of the doors. Originally I only used 331 for the whole door, however, after vigorously spraying the car, water was allowed in at the top of the door - with the 581 this did not happen. This is evidenced by the third picture, where you can see a line of water across the weatherstripping that the water does not go below - if it did, I would have gotten wet. The forth and fifth picture are taken directly below, perpendicularly to the weatherstripping, and you can see quite obviously in the fifth picture that the 331 does not extend far enough to cover the gap of the original weatherstripping (this is where the original silver paint of the car meets the newer red), whereas the majority of the silver is obscured by the 581. Instillation: First, I cut the weatherstripping in half, leaving me with two 12.5 ft. pieces of 331, and 5 ft. pieces of 581. Next, you measure the length from the top corner of the door, down to about where the side window ends. You'll cut a little more than this length from the 581 - one cut will be at a 45 degree angle so the 581's will meet nicely in the corner, and the other end will be where you will connect the 331 to the 581. You connect the 331 to the 581 by cutting about an inch of the vinyl part off of the 331, leaving just the rubber hose, and inserting the 331 hose into the 581. You do the same with the other connection. [NOTE: Before you make the 45 degree cuts on the 581, practice making these cuts on the 331 and connecting them at the corner such that they fit flush together (something like in the picture) as, by the end of this, you will have plenty of excess 331, but you will use all of the 581. Making the 45 degree cuts aren't hard, it's quite intuitive, but it's best to figure it out by trial and error with the 331 before you make any permanent decisions (and mistakes) with the 581.] You make the other 45 degree cut on the longer piece of 581 and run it as far as it goes down the frame, connecting it with 331. Cut the 331 to the necessary lengths such that the tube inserts into the 581, and the vinyls of both kiss each other. It's easiest to start at one connection of the strips, get that one right, and then cut the other half as necessary to acquire the desired result. The stripping holds on to the door by a pinch welt, so all you really have to do is push it on with your fingers, though you could use a rubber mallet if you needed to. Also, don't pull the weatherstipping itself while applying, just press it down naturally - pulling it will allow it to invariably move back to it's natural length, thus not resting in the position you had intended worst case scenario leaving gaps at the seams. Be careful when applying on any curved parts of the door, such as the bottom right and left - you want to be sure they fit snugly on those corners, not letting them come off their grip as you continue farther down the weatherstripping. Conclusory Notes: As you can see in the second to last picture, the design of the Precision stripping is entirely different. The Precision rubber, particularly on the curved bit, is far too thick and rigid, not allowing the door to fully shut. The design of Precision's is a bit more like OEM stripping in that, rather than be a full circle of rubber, it's only about half a circle - not connecting unto itself. Also, the lip where the Precision stripping fastens to the door is far too short to get a good hold, so it requires glue to hold it in place, and then a separate piece of vinyl over top of it to further hold it steady - a piece of vinyl which, if you wish to suffer through installing the Precision stuff, you hopefully kept from the original stripping, and a piece of vinyl that comes pre attached to the McMaster. The door closes all the way with McMaster (evidenced by the door being locked in the final picture as the lock won't engage otherwise), though it does require a bit of force. This, however, could be chalked up to the fact I only just installed the stripping, so it hasn't had time to 'break-in', as it were. The corner piece with the 45 degree cuts may also need some slight pruning. When testing the reliability of this stripping, I absolutely blasted the doors with a hose, subjecting it to forces and quantities of water no storm short of a CAT5 hurricane could posses. I even blasted directly into the seams of the doors, but the stripping still held strong. Water did, however, just barely find it's way into the bottom of the door, but I think this is because I need to replace some gaskets. At any rate, McMaster-Carr survived my brutal tests. Hopefully the weather-stripping stays as resilient as it is now after it breaks in, otherwise I have jumped the gun on this post. I have yet to do the driver side, so if anyone wants me to make a video of that installation to better explain the process, I'm willing to do so - but you'd better ask fast because I plan to do it tonight or tomorrow. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

View Advert Unknown part Do you know what this fits? Left over part, new. free for price of shipping PM me Advertiser 7tooZ Date 10/18/2020 Price Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert '72 240Z - Great Shape... Proceeds to Humane Society This classic 1972 240Z, with a clean paint job and rebuilt engine, is being sold at auction to benefit the Humane Society of the Pikes Peak Region. Details for the car and the auction can be found at Bid.SchurSuccessGroup.com Bidding closes Oct. 22, 2020. Advertiser Schur Success Date 10/12/2020 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  

@zKars Do you know if the check valves from the Nikki 510 pump are the same as the Nikki 240 pump? I noticed in the FSM that specified PSI for the L20 is different than the L16. Is it the Check Value that control that? Anyone?

Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle

In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.

Dear all My name is Roland - I am from Switzerland and I am restoring a 240Z (1972) from scratch. The car I bought in the US and like to make it as original as possible. For the restoration I urgently need a back panel for my Datsun. Is anybody out there who can help me? Please see my pictures attached Thank you so much for your help in advance. Cheers Roland --> The pictures show the actual situation which have to be repaired

View Advert 1970 240z Original Paint, Original CA Pinkslip last registered in 1990's, ive got the original small pink slip for the car. it is a true 1970 below 5k vin. Paint is original, the car is very very solid, dog legs, battery tray, floors, rear trunk panel, and spare wheel well also rust free. A perfect canvas for someone who wants to enjoy the car as is or for a complete restoration, the car could use some body work as it has quite a few dings and dents. The car is so original that it even has its original early hood which is quite hard to find in such an early car as most 240z cars have had some type of front end accidents, not this one.. the car still has its original HARD to find parts such as: metal emblems, original vented front rotors, original series 1 radio, a perfect center console, early style steering wheel, early 69 SU carbs which also came in very early 70's, also have the early style heat shield, the original early Alternator which is also very difficult to find. unfortunately for me do to my busy work schedule i do not have time to work on the car nor do i have to finish it. if anyone is serious and interested please contact me if i dont sell it on here i will try and find time to list it on BAT. thank you im asking 25,000 USD Advertiser 2fourtyzee Date 05/14/2020 Price $25,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1970 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  

Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading.