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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
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Hi all Really looking forward to starting this project and getting all of your input and advice along the way! Im new to this forum, Ive spent lots of time lurking though! I have been posting on the australian forum but traffic is quite low on there so hoping to get quicker input on here. I did also consider hybridz but I think my resto will be more in line with classiczcars as Im not transplanting a V10 into mine... Names Ryan, I am the long time owner of a 1971 240z here in Perth Western Australia. Vin is HS30-001063 I have owned the car for 10 years. When I bought the car it was in rough condition, tried to get it running to enjoy for a while but the previous owner had neglected it too much. So I decided not to waste money or time and wait for a ground up resto. Then it took me 8 years to find a decent space to start the resto (my dads new shed). I started the tear down in late 2018 but then had my son so it went on the back burner for another 1.5 years. Now I am almost finished the tear down and excited to get some real work done. Unfortunately I have another baby due in November! Damn! Lol I have also started a YouTube channel to document the restoration. At the moment they’re pretty boring dismantle videos but I plan to make them better quality and more exciting in the future. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHZhre0vm7sL2Kl7hUQFVkg About the car: History unknown, bought it from a very energetic guy who pretty much ran it into the ground, was completely neglected and unmaintained. I knew I wanted to do a full restomod however, so this was not an issue for me. Car has a L20 engine and may be an originally automatic gearbox, hence the L20 swap and that the gear lever barely lines up with the hole in the trans tunnel. L20 will be thrown in the bin. Car is green originally and has had a terrible quality respray. Car had a relatively minor front end collsion, bent sugar scoop/front bumper support and some light repairs to radiator support Basically everything on the car needs replacing/restoration, nothing is reusable in a sense I can just rebolt it on the restored car. Plans for the car: Due to the car not having the original engine I see no point in going back to stock original. may as well create the car I want, so many things will not be stock - Color change, unsure as to color just yet, was leaning toward white but recently I have been liking safari gold - L28 stroked out - Triple Weber set up but thinking of keeping SU's initially to save some $$$ - BC Coilovers, techno toy tuning 3 point strut brace in front and 3 point apex engineering strut brace in rear - Initially all suspension components will be restored and reused to save $$$ (however I havent ruled out installing some pretty techno toy tuning/ apex engineering components at a later date) - Brake upgrade to front and disc upgrade to rear. not going big brakes as I dont like big rims on the 240z - Custom interior - I am an upholsterer by trade and am going to be doing the interior myself and upgrading some it. Think Alcantara and leather - wheels are undecided but something of the period, watanabes/rotas etc - Fender Mirrors for that classic japanese sports car look - Majority of the chrome will be painted in a satin black, I am not a chrome fan unfortunately.... (I know this will upset many of you) - Exterior besides the lack of chrome will be very stock, no flares etc, thinking about maybe doing a BRE style lower lip air dam thingy Here are some photos just before I started stripping it
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I am in the process of developing a game right now, and i want to use the S-chassis as the main vehicle, the problem is i need either very precise and detailed measurements to make a 3d model, or i need a CAD model, would anyone know where i could get such things, for free that is, i would spend money on this, but as this is purely a passion project im not ready to spend 100 bucks on a model that is not accurate. If anyone is wondering i plan to fill the game with tons of different parts,(engine swaps and individual pieces, suspension parts, body parts, some interior bits.) When finished i will post the download link on this thread for anyone that wishes to try it out. Game is not currently licensed so things will be named differently to avoid any legal problems.
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@zKars Do you know if the check valves from the Nikki 510 pump are the same as the Nikki 240 pump? I noticed in the FSM that specified PSI for the L20 is different than the L16. Is it the Check Value that control that? Anyone?
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Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
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In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.
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Dear all My name is Roland - I am from Switzerland and I am restoring a 240Z (1972) from scratch. The car I bought in the US and like to make it as original as possible. For the restoration I urgently need a back panel for my Datsun. Is anybody out there who can help me? Please see my pictures attached Thank you so much for your help in advance. Cheers Roland --> The pictures show the actual situation which have to be repaired
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View Advert 1970 240z Original Paint, Original CA Pinkslip last registered in 1990's, ive got the original small pink slip for the car. it is a true 1970 below 5k vin. Paint is original, the car is very very solid, dog legs, battery tray, floors, rear trunk panel, and spare wheel well also rust free. A perfect canvas for someone who wants to enjoy the car as is or for a complete restoration, the car could use some body work as it has quite a few dings and dents. The car is so original that it even has its original early hood which is quite hard to find in such an early car as most 240z cars have had some type of front end accidents, not this one.. the car still has its original HARD to find parts such as: metal emblems, original vented front rotors, original series 1 radio, a perfect center console, early style steering wheel, early 69 SU carbs which also came in very early 70's, also have the early style heat shield, the original early Alternator which is also very difficult to find. unfortunately for me do to my busy work schedule i do not have time to work on the car nor do i have to finish it. if anyone is serious and interested please contact me if i dont sell it on here i will try and find time to list it on BAT. thank you im asking 25,000 USD Advertiser 2fourtyzee Date 05/14/2020 Price $25,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1970 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
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last registered in 1990's, ive got the original small pink slip for the car. it is a true 1970 below 5k vin. Paint is original, the car is very very solid, dog legs, battery tray, floors, rear trunk panel, and spare wheel well also rust free. A perfect canvas for someone who wants to enjoy the car as is or for a complete restoration, the car could use some body work as it has quite a few dings and dents. The car is so original that it even has its original early hood which is quite hard to find in such an early car as most 240z cars have had some type of front end accidents, not this one.. the car still has its original HARD to find parts such as: metal emblems, original vented front rotors, original series 1 radio, a perfect center console, early style steering wheel, early 69 SU carbs which also came in very early 70's, also have the early style heat shield, the original early Alternator which is also very difficult to find. unfortunately for me do to my busy work schedule i do not have time to work on the car nor do i have to finish it. if anyone is serious and interested please contact me if i dont sell it on here i will try and find time to list it on BAT. thank you im asking 25,000 USD$25,000.00
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Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading. -
Our late father's 1972 240Z is for sale in Texas. He was the original owner. Please note the mileage listed is wrong, as the gentleman handling the sale for our mother was not initially aware that the odometer had rolled over. I would be happy to try to answer any questions you may have. I stumbled upon this site by accident, so hope it isn't inappropriate to post this. Listing is here: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/marion-1972-datsun-240z/7056714243.html
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Hi everybody! Thanks a lot for yor feed-back. I’ve got some news and that’s why I’m here again. Last Tuesday I went to Mr.vitorino shop and started do dismantle the Z…honestly I thought it was a dificult task, but it wasn’t…well, only in some little details. The ca ris in excellent shape as photos will show…I guess this car was restored or deep painted some years ago. Next week We’ll have at least one door rebuilt, below the doors and inside need some intervention. Here are some photos… Rear window acquisition…the car has the horizontal defrost lines and aren’t the correct…I found one vertical and job done…a few years ago I bought one in the USA and came broken…never bought or find anoter one..they are getting rare this days!!! The beggining… Door parts ready for the treatment…Nickel plating Rear floor…not bad!!! I got scared, but fortunately the brown zone is glue…no rust… Door ready for Mr.Vitorino! Original floor carpet…but has to be removed!!! Rear luggage accomodation in excelente shape And now the surprise…the original blue…It can only be seen on some detailed parts..this is one! Replacemente tyre floor…not bad…no rust… The seats will be rédone, but I will only take care of the parts that are completely off… No plastic cover…but I have 2 here…offered by a mate!!! Passenger side floor…the usual…46 years and some bad treatment…the reason…the jack tool…but Mr.vitorino said that’s a part to be redone… Drivers side floor…the usual again…but this one has no concerns…ist’s 75% good…a little intevention. By the end we will apply some Soundproofing board to avoid rust and noise. My helper keeping all the bolts in place! Under the plate no surprises!!!! Datsun logo temporarily off… In my opinion this s the exact moment to restore the car…it has some details that need intervention, and now that he has no rust holes and unrestorable parts the process will be much easier. Hope you like it…next week some more news!!! Regards Mário
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I'm in the process of purchasing a Jan 71 Series one car that's been garaged for 12 years. Wondering besides the obvious external hoses, battery and fluids if there are any seals, gaskets or electronic parts that tend to need replacing right away. It's a rust free car that's been garaged in a super dry climate. I'm gonna compression test when I pick up the car and will splash oil on the cam and rockers and manually rotate the crank until I see oil up high before doing the compression test. Current owner claims there was a rebuild 23K miles ago but he has no papertrail.
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View Advert 1972 240z - For sale at No Reserve at 12/7/19 Houston Auction Here is the link to the auction listing with more photos. https://lmauctionco.hibid.com/lot/16208-191870-92609/1972-datsun-nissan-240z/ One can bid on LiveAuctioneers. https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/78726134_1972-datsun-nissan-240z Advertiser 718Miata Date 11/29/2019 Price $15,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS30-70470 -
1972 240z - For sale at No Reserve at 12/7/19 Houston Auction
718Miata posted an advert in Completed Ads
THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
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Here is the link to the auction listing with more photos. https://lmauctionco.hibid.com/lot/16208-191870-92609/1972-datsun-nissan-240z/ One can bid on LiveAuctioneers. https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/78726134_1972-datsun-nissan-240z$15,000.00
Houston, Texas - US
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View Advert I put my Rebello 260Z on Bring A Trailer Since I've been a member here for the duration of my Datsun(s) ownership I'd like to share the sale of my last Z with you all: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-35/ Advertiser Kurbycar32 Date 11/21/2019 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 1974 Model Datsun Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
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Since I've been a member here for the duration of my Datsun(s) ownership I'd like to share the sale of my last Z with you all: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-35/NO VALUE SPECIFIED
Manteca, California - US
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As many of you are aware, I brought my 72 S30 to SZR Pro, in Houston, Texas, for a top to bottom evaluation of the car, and for any resultant work. The car was there for many weeks. When I picked it up, I had a long conversation with the mechanic who did most of the actual work on the car. He told me that he really liked the car and had been doing burnouts in it. I’ve been extremely dissatisfied with the quality of SZR’s work. I’ve been recently going back and forth with Brad, SZR’s manager, about the propriety of the burnouts. He gave the following explanation: “No, he didn't admit that he did burnouts in your car, but burnouts in sports cars on private property in front of a performance shop aren't terribly uncommon. It's an effective strain check on the drivetrain of the car, similar in applied force to a spirited acceleration on the road. Oil pressure goes up, fuel pressure goes up, engine, clutch, trans, driveshaft, diff, and axles are under load, and the rear suspension compresses. All of this without leaving the parking lot, endangering anyone, or breaking any laws. We're not going to fill the lot with smoke or burn the tires down, but it is an effective test. That being said, I can see how one might consider that mistreatment. Though examining the physical forces applied to the various vehicle components would show that they're either equal to, or less than the forces applied by an enthusiastic drive down the road, some might be disturbed by wheelspin and tire smoke. If Raul did do burnouts in your car, and this is distasteful to you, then I humbly apologize for our apparent mistreatment of your sports car.“ Even if I were to accept Brad’s explanation that the burnouts were done for testing purposes (which I don’t because it contradicts what the mechanic told me), is road testing a car with burnouts at all reasonable?
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Looking for a little expertise from this forum. I have a Datsun 240Z that has been stored in my garage for over 25 years. It's all stock, but is missing the transmission. It's spent it's entire life in Southern California so the body is still in good shape. It hasn't been driven since 1989. I've been lead to believe that because it's one of the early cars imported into the USA, and because it's all original components, it's rare to find these days. The VIN is in the low 2000's. Is it best to offer this through eBay? What should I know or do before I offer for sale? Thanks all
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New original style frame rail repair parts for Datsun 240Z. Replicas of the original floor support frame rails are now available at Z Car Depot. We went to a lot of effort on these to make them as close to the originals as we could. These are .060" thickness which is a little thicker than the original fram rail metal so we were able add strength but maintain the same proportions as stock. We made the gussets and the straight frame rail in two pieces because if you are keeping your original floor boards or replacing them, the fitment will be a little different. Once welded together they can be dressed to look like one continuous part. https://zcardepot.com/products/frame-rail-sheet-metal-replacement-240z-70-73?_pos=2&_sid=13acc1eea&_ss=r
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View Advert 1972 Datsun 240Z For Sale I am selling my 1972 Datsun 240Z as I have not had the chance to use it in the past several years and my wife is demanding the garage back. I bought the car in 2009 with 67k original miles and it currently has just over 70k original miles on it. I paid $5,900 for the car and am looking to sell it for $3,900, primarily because there will be some work needed to get it back on the road (possibly battery, tires) and I would like to be able to ship it to you before winter. The attached photos show the car in 2007 and today. (The Indianapolis Colts decals have been removed)... The car is in good condition and drives well. Both the previous (original) owner and i did not drive the car in the rain, nor did we put the car on the road between November and April... In addition, you will get a car cover, the original steering wheel (which was replaced), and the original Owner's Manual... I have not done this before so if you are interested and there are specific questions you want answered, please email me at avlevin@gmail.com and I will provide you a response. Andy Levin (Belmont, MA) Advertiser avlevin Date 09/26/2019 Price $3,900.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS3082152
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
I am selling my 1972 Datsun 240Z as I have not had the chance to use it in the past several years and my wife is demanding the garage back. I bought the car in 2009 with 67k original miles and it currently has just over 70k original miles on it. I paid $5,900 for the car and am looking to sell it for $3,900, primarily because there will be some work needed to get it back on the road (possibly battery, tires) and I would like to be able to ship it to you before winter. The attached photos show the car in 2007 and today. (The Indianapolis Colts decals have been removed)... The car is in good condition and drives well. Both the previous (original) owner and i did not drive the car in the rain, nor did we put the car on the road between November and April... In addition, you will get a car cover, the original steering wheel (which was replaced), and the original Owner's Manual... I have not done this before so if you are interested and there are specific questions you want answered, please email me at avlevin@gmail.com and I will provide you a response. Andy Levin (Belmont, MA)$3,900.00
Belmont, Massachusetts - US
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View Advert Selling 240Z 1971 Show Car Hot Rod I am selling my baby, ha, I mean my 240z I've had for years. She's been sitting for three years. So the battery needs to be replaced, and radiator cap. I don't have the time, and I've since married. So I am looking for someone to continue to put love into the car. She's a beauty, clean, and show car ready after some love since she's been sitting for three years. I am looking for $20,000, or part cash and a gas efficient car. Either will work. Please message me if you're interested. Advertiser AdamZ Date 09/16/2019 Price $20,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1971 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLDS
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
I am selling my baby, ha, I mean my 240z I've had for years. She's been sitting for three years. So the battery needs to be replaced, and radiator cap. I don't have the time, and I've since married. So I am looking for someone to continue to put love into the car. She's a beauty, clean, and show car ready after some love since she's been sitting for three years. I am looking for $20,000, or part cash and a gas efficient car. Either will work. Please message me if you're interested.$20,000.00
Rancho Cordova, California - US
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I am attempting to tighten the shift linkage on my early '71. I had some new nylon bushings in "stock" so I thought I'd use those. When I got to the linkage, there was no match with the bushings. So, I think I have a Type A transmission. Can someone tell from the picture below? Also, how do I fix this linkage so I don't have to stir to find the gear? Just a different bushing? Thanks
