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Showing results for tags '240z'.
Found 258 results
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Hello, this is my first topic and I would like some help on my current project. I recently bought a 71’ 240z and I am planning on engine swapping an L28 w/ 4 speed that I also plan to turbo in the near future. I have a couple questions. 1. What driveshaft would I use for this conversion. Would I use a 240z driveshaft or should I use the 280z driveshaft? (I’m not sure if my Z is series 1 or 2 at the moment) 2. When turbo charging an NA L28 what components should I upgrade and what additional parts do I NEED. I’m on a tight budget so don’t tell me I need the most expensive parts. (Have a $1500-$2000 budget for the engine)
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Time Left: 12 days and 14 hours
- FOR SALE
- NEW
S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, front suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 65$ + shipping /set of 2.$65.00
Montreal , Quebec - CA
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In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.
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Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
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Looking for any tips/tricks to replacing the windshield rubber on my 71 240z. I have the FSM but was wondering if anyone who had actually done this repair had any tips or suggestions to help me out before I start
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View Advert S30 suspension mounting brackets S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 75$ + shipping /set of 2. Advertiser ZCarFever Date 07/03/2019 Price $75.00 Category Parts for Sale
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Where: Southern New Jersey. USA I have 3 pretty rotten but complete(mostly) 240Z cars. The two yellow ones are both early 1970 models. The silver is a 1972. I have both front fenders/wings and grill. All are manual trans and have complete stock drive trains. They have been sitting out in the New Jersey elements for over 25 years. I also have a couple of doors, hatches, a hood, and brand new front fender/wings that are in a dry storage container. I have a few spare blocks, heads, transmissions, rear diffs, etc. I would like to sell this as one complete deal. If I had time I'd just break apart the cars and sell the parts myself, but that is not a project I need right now. I think the lot is worth $5,000 but I'm open to options, ideas, trades. Only contact me if you are truly interested. Thanks, JD
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Hi everybody! Thanks a lot for yor feed-back. I’ve got some news and that’s why I’m here again. Last Tuesday I went to Mr.vitorino shop and started do dismantle the Z…honestly I thought it was a dificult task, but it wasn’t…well, only in some little details. The ca ris in excellent shape as photos will show…I guess this car was restored or deep painted some years ago. Next week We’ll have at least one door rebuilt, below the doors and inside need some intervention. Here are some photos… Rear window acquisition…the car has the horizontal defrost lines and aren’t the correct…I found one vertical and job done…a few years ago I bought one in the USA and came broken…never bought or find anoter one..they are getting rare this days!!! The beggining… Door parts ready for the treatment…Nickel plating Rear floor…not bad!!! I got scared, but fortunately the brown zone is glue…no rust… Door ready for Mr.Vitorino! Original floor carpet…but has to be removed!!! Rear luggage accomodation in excelente shape And now the surprise…the original blue…It can only be seen on some detailed parts..this is one! Replacemente tyre floor…not bad…no rust… The seats will be rédone, but I will only take care of the parts that are completely off… No plastic cover…but I have 2 here…offered by a mate!!! Passenger side floor…the usual…46 years and some bad treatment…the reason…the jack tool…but Mr.vitorino said that’s a part to be redone… Drivers side floor…the usual again…but this one has no concerns…ist’s 75% good…a little intevention. By the end we will apply some Soundproofing board to avoid rust and noise. My helper keeping all the bolts in place! Under the plate no surprises!!!! Datsun logo temporarily off… In my opinion this s the exact moment to restore the car…it has some details that need intervention, and now that he has no rust holes and unrestorable parts the process will be much easier. Hope you like it…next week some more news!!! Regards Mário
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Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading. -
240zrubberparts.com is the home of the original cast rubber and plastic parts, not a 3D printed copy of our product. We own ALL the molds. We provide many reproduction rubber parts that are NLA, or No Longer Available from Nissan. All of our 240z reproduction rubber parts are made in house and we don't outsource any of the rubber parts. Each rubber part is made from the best materials available to ensure you a quality product. You can be sure that these rubber parts will last for years of continuous use. All of our rubber parts are made in the USA and hand inspected for a finish you can be proud of.
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True Right Hand Drive Datsun 240z from Japan (foreign VIN plate to prove it), otherwise known as the Nissan Fairlady Z. Let me make it clear that great lengths have been taken to ensure no rust in this car. It's all steel and completely straight. 2.8L engine with triple Mikuni carbs, a 5 speed transmission, R200 rear, 3 core aluminum radiator. Brand new paint job completed August 2016 in correct original Orange 918. Disc brakes on every wheel with red calipers, rear kit is brand new. Brand new fully stainless steel exhaust. Brand new coilover suspension from TechnoToy Tuning. Brand new white interior including door panels and dog legs with heat-bonded chrome strip (4 months to make on a custom order). Brand new carpet, custom made for Right Hand Drive arrangement. Brand new weatherstripping kit. 1 key car. Original steering wheel completely restored. Brand new horn button with BLUE color Z emblem (JDM). Brand new from Nissan chrome lining strips for windshield and rear hatch, installed. Brand new exterior chrome door handles from Nissan. Brand new chrome bullet fender mirrors. Brand new exterior door window chrome mouldings. Brand new sound deafening and vibration reducing Dynamat installed on the entire floor and doors. Brand new Nissan Gas Cap. Alpine head unit with Sony amps and Sub ready to be installed. Gas tank was fully restored a year ago. Grille has been restored. Front AND Rear bumpers are included, although not pictured. Miscellaneous interior pieces are almost all there - arm rests, window cranks, window mechanisms, sunvisors, seats. No glass is missing. Clean CA title in hand. There is not much left to complete the project; this will make someone an amazing car. Please note that I am selling this car AS IS, and it has been sitting for some time. MAKE ME AN OFFER PLEASE, or check it out on eBay - just search for "Datsun 240z RHD JDM Nissan Fairlady Z 1972"
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View Advert Refurbished Kyosandenki Fuel Pump A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 03/11/2019 Price $225.00 Category Parts for Sale
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
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A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks.$225.00
Richardson, Texas - US
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I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
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Looking for these parts: Throttle lever and Knob 240z door springs -(springs only) Functional Volt Gauge Let me know if you have it and if so how much to buy it - shipping included- to San Jose California USA If you need parts, also let me know.. I have some misc. available.
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For sale 1970 240z runs needs restoration a great starting spot. Vin 003266 some rust engine runs good trans shifts 10,000.00
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Up for sale is a 1974 Datsun 260z. Bought it two years ago with plans on fully rebuilding it to a period correct build. Like most stories, life got in the way and rather it go to someone that has the time and finances to get this automobile to proper running condition and be used. This is the best info I can give regarding the car.... Bought it from a man in Georgia and had it shipped up to NY. Original owner was in Tampa, Florida as per title history. 2nd owner rebuilt / refreshed engine to oem specs besides being bored out .20 over. Vehicle runs if you spray starter fluid on the intake. It is equipped with triple Weber carbs. Besides the usual maintenance that it will need, I believe it needs a bigger fuel pump, carb maintenance and reworking the throttle and choke cable. Otherwise, new tires and fluids. I don't see rust on the usual areas but I never got to dig around the car too much. Been busy working and never got to it. Now the business requires I pick up a truck, hence the car being up for sale. I can provide towing prices, just need an address. Vehicle is located in Oceanside, NY 11572. Best contact would be via email alex (at) realautodynamics.com Would like to get my initial money back, $8k for the car. Thanks!
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Version 1.0.0
32 downloads
1972 240z Owners ManualFree
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I have decided to sell my 918 Orange 1971 240Z. This is an original restoration with most of the work documented on this website link at: (Unfortunately some of the earlier work on this thread was accidentally deleted by the site admin due to some external spammers) I would consider the car a Category 2 restoration based on Hagerty's scale. This car placed 2nd in the Z car category at the 2016 JCCS which had nearly 50 entrants, arguably one of the most competitive Z car shows in the nation. The car runs great and all electronics work well including an original radio, antenna, wipers and clock (quartz mech) The car has also been featured in the 2018 Fall edition of the GQ style magazine and can be seen at this website: https://www.gq.com/story/datsun-240z-oral-history Many new and original parts on the car. Freshly chromed bumpers and 'Just dashes' dash just to name a few. Rims and hubcaps are epic (they were carefully stored for over 45 years) and are a bit hard to part with. While many parts of the car would be considered condition 1 by Hagerty's, I would consider the paint it's weak link and a category 2 ( I personally would give it a 7.5 or 8 out of 10). It is a beautiful high end single stage paint that could probably use a little more color sanding. On the flip side of this, I was praised by one Concours car show judge on how the paint replicates the original factory paint in its' appearance. Other minor issues would be a gap near at the drivers side door that is a bit wide and the original 47 year old exhaust that sounds a bit like a motorboat at low RPMs. I will also include a new aftermarket (motorsport) exhaust in the sale. Below are some recent pics. Will be listing on BAT soon Many more pictures available upon request Thanks, Rich
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Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
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Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
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I need your advice regarding my '72 240Z. Can't get either of my front end strut inserts out of their strut housing after I removed the gland nut. They should just slip out. They do not. Perhaps they are rusted in? I've saturated them in penetrant, heated the housings with a propane torch, tapped the housings with a hammer, and of course pulled on 'em like crazy. Got any ideas for me, please? -
Version 1.0.0
77 downloads
This is a color copy of the 1973 Service manual wiring diagram, Section BE Electrical. (For Manual transmissions)Free
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Version 1.0.0
73 downloads
This is a color copy of the 1972 Service manual wiring diagram, Section BE Body ElectricalFree
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Version 1.0.0
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This is a color copy of the wiring diagram in the 1971 supplement Late model. No "Passing Relay" circuitFree
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