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Showing results for tags '240z'.
Found 246 results
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Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
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240zrubberparts.com is the home of the original cast rubber and plastic parts, not a 3D printed copy of our product. We own ALL the molds. We provide many reproduction rubber parts that are NLA, or No Longer Available from Nissan. All of our 240z reproduction rubber parts are made in house and we don't outsource any of the rubber parts. Each rubber part is made from the best materials available to ensure you a quality product. You can be sure that these rubber parts will last for years of continuous use. All of our rubber parts are made in the USA and hand inspected for a finish you can be proud of.
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Looking for these parts: Throttle lever and Knob 240z door springs -(springs only) Functional Volt Gauge Let me know if you have it and if so how much to buy it - shipping included- to San Jose California USA If you need parts, also let me know.. I have some misc. available.
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Hi everybody! Thanks a lot for yor feed-back. I’ve got some news and that’s why I’m here again. Last Tuesday I went to Mr.vitorino shop and started do dismantle the Z…honestly I thought it was a dificult task, but it wasn’t…well, only in some little details. The ca ris in excellent shape as photos will show…I guess this car was restored or deep painted some years ago. Next week We’ll have at least one door rebuilt, below the doors and inside need some intervention. Here are some photos… Rear window acquisition…the car has the horizontal defrost lines and aren’t the correct…I found one vertical and job done…a few years ago I bought one in the USA and came broken…never bought or find anoter one..they are getting rare this days!!! The beggining… Door parts ready for the treatment…Nickel plating Rear floor…not bad!!! I got scared, but fortunately the brown zone is glue…no rust… Door ready for Mr.Vitorino! Original floor carpet…but has to be removed!!! Rear luggage accomodation in excelente shape And now the surprise…the original blue…It can only be seen on some detailed parts..this is one! Replacemente tyre floor…not bad…no rust… The seats will be rédone, but I will only take care of the parts that are completely off… No plastic cover…but I have 2 here…offered by a mate!!! Passenger side floor…the usual…46 years and some bad treatment…the reason…the jack tool…but Mr.vitorino said that’s a part to be redone… Drivers side floor…the usual again…but this one has no concerns…ist’s 75% good…a little intevention. By the end we will apply some Soundproofing board to avoid rust and noise. My helper keeping all the bolts in place! Under the plate no surprises!!!! Datsun logo temporarily off… In my opinion this s the exact moment to restore the car…it has some details that need intervention, and now that he has no rust holes and unrestorable parts the process will be much easier. Hope you like it…next week some more news!!! Regards Mário
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Up for sale is a 1974 Datsun 260z. Bought it two years ago with plans on fully rebuilding it to a period correct build. Like most stories, life got in the way and rather it go to someone that has the time and finances to get this automobile to proper running condition and be used. This is the best info I can give regarding the car.... Bought it from a man in Georgia and had it shipped up to NY. Original owner was in Tampa, Florida as per title history. 2nd owner rebuilt / refreshed engine to oem specs besides being bored out .20 over. Vehicle runs if you spray starter fluid on the intake. It is equipped with triple Weber carbs. Besides the usual maintenance that it will need, I believe it needs a bigger fuel pump, carb maintenance and reworking the throttle and choke cable. Otherwise, new tires and fluids. I don't see rust on the usual areas but I never got to dig around the car too much. Been busy working and never got to it. Now the business requires I pick up a truck, hence the car being up for sale. I can provide towing prices, just need an address. Vehicle is located in Oceanside, NY 11572. Best contact would be via email alex (at) realautodynamics.com Would like to get my initial money back, $8k for the car. Thanks!
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Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.
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Version 1.0.0
5 downloads
1972 240z Owners ManualFree
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I have decided to sell my 918 Orange 1971 240Z. This is an original restoration with most of the work documented on this website link at: (Unfortunately some of the earlier work on this thread was accidentally deleted by the site admin due to some external spammers) I would consider the car a Category 2 restoration based on Hagerty's scale. This car placed 2nd in the Z car category at the 2016 JCCS which had nearly 50 entrants, arguably one of the most competitive Z car shows in the nation. The car runs great and all electronics work well including an original radio, antenna, wipers and clock (quartz mech) The car has also been featured in the 2018 Fall edition of the GQ style magazine and can be seen at this website: https://www.gq.com/story/datsun-240z-oral-history Many new and original parts on the car. Freshly chromed bumpers and 'Just dashes' dash just to name a few. Rims and hubcaps are epic (they were carefully stored for over 45 years) and are a bit hard to part with. While many parts of the car would be considered condition 1 by Hagerty's, I would consider the paint it's weak link and a category 2 ( I personally would give it a 7.5 or 8 out of 10). It is a beautiful high end single stage paint that could probably use a little more color sanding. On the flip side of this, I was praised by one Concours car show judge on how the paint replicates the original factory paint in its' appearance. Other minor issues would be a gap near at the drivers side door that is a bit wide and the original 47 year old exhaust that sounds a bit like a motorboat at low RPMs. I will also include a new aftermarket (motorsport) exhaust in the sale. Below are some recent pics. Will be listing on BAT soon Many more pictures available upon request Thanks, Rich
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Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
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Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
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Strut Cartridges Stuck (Rusted In?) Strut Housing
Jerryz240 posted a topic in Suspension and Steering
I need your advice regarding my '72 240Z. Can't get either of my front end strut inserts out of their strut housing after I removed the gland nut. They should just slip out. They do not. Perhaps they are rusted in? I've saturated them in penetrant, heated the housings with a propane torch, tapped the housings with a hammer, and of course pulled on 'em like crazy. Got any ideas for me, please? -
Where: Southern New Jersey. USA I have 3 pretty rotten but complete(mostly) 240Z cars. The two yellow ones are both early 1970 models. The silver is a 1972. I have both front fenders/wings and grill. All are manual trans and have complete stock drive trains. They have been sitting out in the New Jersey elements for over 25 years. I also have a couple of doors, hatches, a hood, and brand new front fender/wings that are in a dry storage container. I have a few spare blocks, heads, transmissions, rear diffs, etc. I would like to sell this as one complete deal. If I had time I'd just break apart the cars and sell the parts myself, but that is not a project I need right now. I think the lot is worth $5,000 but I'm open to options, ideas, trades. Only contact me if you are truly interested. Thanks, JD
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Stunning Body Style, which was how Nissan originally designed the 240z. However the safety laws in the United States became stricter and the 240z was only built as a Fastback with a hatch (that commonly leaked in the rain and caused many 240zs to rust out in the back). Fiberglass kits were sold years ago to turn the 240z into a convertible. This is one of those cars. Originally sold in San Diego, it went to Utah. I bought it 10 years ago off Craigslist. During that time I got it running and made it safe to drive. It is registered legally in California. Because it is a 1973, it does not require a Smog Certificate ever. This car has the L28 (280z) engine with its matching 5-speed transmission. It has the stock SU Carburetors with the stock air cleaner and electronic ignition. It has a brand new super high-output Optima Yellow Top battery. The interior is gutted. It has rust in the center of the car underneath (not inside) but is completely clear with no rust at all from (and including) the firewall forward and from the back of the seats rearward. If you want to replace the frame rails then here is where you purchase new ones http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1 . The body has bracing to strengthen it throughout. There is a front upper strut tie bar. The previous owner made a lattice brace to tie the rear struts for structural strength. The fiberglass kit does not allow easy access and I would have modified it. With the weight of the Fastback metal removed this car, unmodified, is faster than most 240zs. It is right at the point where someone needs to complete this project. I have decided to not complete the project that I have started on this because I wanted to make this my Daily Driver. I do not want to sell it but it is too far away to complete the project, so I have decided to go in a different direction. This car will only be available during this month. Next month I will not need the money for my next purchase and then it will never be for sale again. If you have ever wanted something that nobody else has then this is your car. It starts and runs perfectly. Headlights work. Brakes are stock and work fine. It is wicked fast and stunning.
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Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240Z - First Look
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Hi all! Just thought I would let you know that even down in "darkest Africa" the Z is alive and well. Although not many are seen on the roads anymore, there are a handful of decent ones left. I'd like to think that mine is one of those. I've posted a couple of pix, but hopefully I'll get some decent ones done soon. If there are any other members from my neck of the woods (South Africa) please drop me a line.
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i just bought a 1973 240z for my first car. it turns over but doesnt start. it turns over really smooth but just wont fire. what should i do first to try to get it to start? it has original su carbs. any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Hey so ive got a 73 240 with the 72 SU's with the emissions removed vac lines on carbs capped. only engine mods besides carbs is 79 electronic distributor, and electronic fuel pump. Well when I start the car it idles around 800 but after about ten minutes of driving the idle works itself to 1500 and doesn't come down from that. A friend told me it was was probably a vacuum leak because sometimes wen i turn the car off the engine runs for a second, and my heater vents blow cold air and defrost blows warm, and you can kinda hear a hiss from the engine when i turn it off that i cant find anywhere.... so I unplugged and capped the distributor advance and the brake booster but neither helps. I also sprayed starting fluid all over suspicious spots like intake and hoses. and only around the the throttle shaft where it meets between the two carbs did it seem to make any idle fluctuation. maybe this could be the problem? warn out? any help would be greatly appreciated:)
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We are ready to clean and degrease the underside. After that we will start to paint
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So within the next year when i have more cash im getting new wheels and tires. most likely konig rewinds, but during this process I was thinking of possibly putting on the bolt on fender flares. Ive seen many pics with the flares but I have a 112 lime 240z and I have never seen that color with flares so Im debating whether it would look good on my color. Im a pretty indecisive person so any comments would help. I also am wondering if the fiberglass one or the carbon fiber one would look better.
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edit - that should be non non-op... When I moved to So Cal from Martinez I parked the Z in my dad's garage and it's been there ever since, non-op. My dad passed away last year and I'm getting ready to sell the house and need to decide what to do with the car, problem being that I don't want to pay 15 years of DMV fees for the non-op. The car looked and ran fair, but at this point I'm about ready to give it to an auto wrecker just to be rid of it. any suggestions? thanks Mike
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240Z - First Look
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240Z - First Look
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240Z - First Look
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Hello Everyone, I've been on the forum for a few years; I'm finishing the rear suspension on my '73 right now. I've been buying/selling Datsun parts and cars here and there to supplement my income and to fund the '73. ---------------------- I cannot believe I found this 71. I am still in a bit of shock. I live modestly and can only afford drivers. Now I am debating which car to keep. The 3rd owner '73 that I've dumped thousands of dollars into, or start fresh with an original '71 in my favorite color? I'm starting this thread to document my progress, and mainly, for everyone's expertise. My plan is to get this Lucky Lady as close to original as possible this year, then decide which one to sell. I'm at the airport so I'll give more details and photos tomorrow. BLUF: 1971 240z, 109k miles, 3rd owner. Professionally reupholstered leather seats. Unmolested. Series 1 crossover vertical defroster lines, gas lid, lighter, etc. Original paint? If so, touched up in spots. Rust/bondo at driver's dog leg. Floors, rails, rockers solid, quarter sized hole in driver's floor. Original owner lives locally and I have his contact info. I'm hoping to get in touch with him, pick him up in the Z, and sit down over a beer to hear some history.
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