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Showing results for tags '240z'.
Found 272 results
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As many of you are aware, I brought my 72 S30 to SZR Pro, in Houston, Texas, for a top to bottom evaluation of the car, and for any resultant work. The car was there for many weeks. When I picked it up, I had a long conversation with the mechanic who did most of the actual work on the car. He told me that he really liked the car and had been doing burnouts in it. I’ve been extremely dissatisfied with the quality of SZR’s work. I’ve been recently going back and forth with Brad, SZR’s manager, about the propriety of the burnouts. He gave the following explanation: “No, he didn't admit that he did burnouts in your car, but burnouts in sports cars on private property in front of a performance shop aren't terribly uncommon. It's an effective strain check on the drivetrain of the car, similar in applied force to a spirited acceleration on the road. Oil pressure goes up, fuel pressure goes up, engine, clutch, trans, driveshaft, diff, and axles are under load, and the rear suspension compresses. All of this without leaving the parking lot, endangering anyone, or breaking any laws. We're not going to fill the lot with smoke or burn the tires down, but it is an effective test. That being said, I can see how one might consider that mistreatment. Though examining the physical forces applied to the various vehicle components would show that they're either equal to, or less than the forces applied by an enthusiastic drive down the road, some might be disturbed by wheelspin and tire smoke. If Raul did do burnouts in your car, and this is distasteful to you, then I humbly apologize for our apparent mistreatment of your sports car.“ Even if I were to accept Brad’s explanation that the burnouts were done for testing purposes (which I don’t because it contradicts what the mechanic told me), is road testing a car with burnouts at all reasonable? -
Looking for a little expertise from this forum. I have a Datsun 240Z that has been stored in my garage for over 25 years. It's all stock, but is missing the transmission. It's spent it's entire life in Southern California so the body is still in good shape. It hasn't been driven since 1989. I've been lead to believe that because it's one of the early cars imported into the USA, and because it's all original components, it's rare to find these days. The VIN is in the low 2000's. Is it best to offer this through eBay? What should I know or do before I offer for sale? Thanks all
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Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.
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New original style frame rail repair parts for Datsun 240Z. Replicas of the original floor support frame rails are now available at Z Car Depot. We went to a lot of effort on these to make them as close to the originals as we could. These are .060" thickness which is a little thicker than the original fram rail metal so we were able add strength but maintain the same proportions as stock. We made the gussets and the straight frame rail in two pieces because if you are keeping your original floor boards or replacing them, the fitment will be a little different. Once welded together they can be dressed to look like one continuous part. https://zcardepot.com/products/frame-rail-sheet-metal-replacement-240z-70-73?_pos=2&_sid=13acc1eea&_ss=r
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View Advert 1972 Datsun 240Z For Sale I am selling my 1972 Datsun 240Z as I have not had the chance to use it in the past several years and my wife is demanding the garage back. I bought the car in 2009 with 67k original miles and it currently has just over 70k original miles on it. I paid $5,900 for the car and am looking to sell it for $3,900, primarily because there will be some work needed to get it back on the road (possibly battery, tires) and I would like to be able to ship it to you before winter. The attached photos show the car in 2007 and today. (The Indianapolis Colts decals have been removed)... The car is in good condition and drives well. Both the previous (original) owner and i did not drive the car in the rain, nor did we put the car on the road between November and April... In addition, you will get a car cover, the original steering wheel (which was replaced), and the original Owner's Manual... I have not done this before so if you are interested and there are specific questions you want answered, please email me at avlevin@gmail.com and I will provide you a response. Andy Levin (Belmont, MA) Advertiser avlevin Date 09/26/2019 Price $3,900.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS3082152
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Time Left: 1 month and 6 days
- FOR SALE
- USED
I am selling my 1972 Datsun 240Z as I have not had the chance to use it in the past several years and my wife is demanding the garage back. I bought the car in 2009 with 67k original miles and it currently has just over 70k original miles on it. I paid $5,900 for the car and am looking to sell it for $3,900, primarily because there will be some work needed to get it back on the road (possibly battery, tires) and I would like to be able to ship it to you before winter. The attached photos show the car in 2007 and today. (The Indianapolis Colts decals have been removed)... The car is in good condition and drives well. Both the previous (original) owner and i did not drive the car in the rain, nor did we put the car on the road between November and April... In addition, you will get a car cover, the original steering wheel (which was replaced), and the original Owner's Manual... I have not done this before so if you are interested and there are specific questions you want answered, please email me at avlevin@gmail.com and I will provide you a response. Andy Levin (Belmont, MA)$3,900.00
Belmont, Massachusetts - US
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View Advert Selling 240Z 1971 Show Car Hot Rod I am selling my baby, ha, I mean my 240z I've had for years. She's been sitting for three years. So the battery needs to be replaced, and radiator cap. I don't have the time, and I've since married. So I am looking for someone to continue to put love into the car. She's a beauty, clean, and show car ready after some love since she's been sitting for three years. I am looking for $20,000, or part cash and a gas efficient car. Either will work. Please message me if you're interested. Advertiser AdamZ Date 09/16/2019 Price $20,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1971 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLDS
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Time Left: 26 days and 13 hours
- FOR SALE
- USED
I am selling my baby, ha, I mean my 240z I've had for years. She's been sitting for three years. So the battery needs to be replaced, and radiator cap. I don't have the time, and I've since married. So I am looking for someone to continue to put love into the car. She's a beauty, clean, and show car ready after some love since she's been sitting for three years. I am looking for $20,000, or part cash and a gas efficient car. Either will work. Please message me if you're interested.$20,000.00
Rancho Cordova, California - US
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I am attempting to tighten the shift linkage on my early '71. I had some new nylon bushings in "stock" so I thought I'd use those. When I got to the linkage, there was no match with the bushings. So, I think I have a Type A transmission. Can someone tell from the picture below? Also, how do I fix this linkage so I don't have to stir to find the gear? Just a different bushing? Thanks
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Hey guys, I've got a 71 240z that's nearing the end of a restore and I'm having a hell of a time finding replacement bumpers for it and chroming is astronomical. The bumper consists of a main(front) part and two sides with two guards in the center. The guards have a rubber strip, each. The two sides have rubber strips.
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Hey guys, I've got a 71 240z that's nearing the end of a restore and I'm having a hell of a time finding replacement bumpers for it and chroming is astronomical. The bumper consists of a main(front) part and two sides with two guards in the center. The guards have a rubber strip, each. The two sides have rubber strips.
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I need to replace the shifter bushing in my early 240Z, manufactured 8/70. I know that the very early Zs were different from the slightly later models. I suspect I have an early transmission, but I'll confirm that later. What I am particularly interested in is the gaining access to the bushings. Is it necessary to remove the center console or can they be access from beneath the car? I think of taking out the console to be a real pain, so if I can avoid it, so much the better. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
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Here’s the link to the auction, which will be on Saturday, July 27 at 12pm. My car will likely be closer to 2pm. My car is Lot 155a. I’m going to set a low reserve. https://lmauctionco.hibid.com/catalog/174945/lewis-and-maese-july-27th--2019-saturday-mancave-auction/ You can bid on LiveAuctioneers.com, as well.
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View Advert 1973 240z off fresh 2.8L build, SoCal Car & Head Turner Time to sell my 1973 240z- that I brought from Southern California to Pennsylvania 15 years ago. Since that time the Z has been kept in a garage and only driven during Spring, Summer and Fall. She's a head turner of a vehicle- Looks fantastic from 10 feet away. Up close, you'll notice some chips (filled and polished) and cosmetic blemishes, but mechanically this is a rock solid car. Freshly rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles on it. The Enkei wheels really set off the elegant lines of the 240z. Outside of a concours restoration, you won't fine a cleaner engine bay. I'm an engineer by profession and I saw to only the highest quality parts were used in every facet of the restoration. Documentation available for the mechanical work on the engine. I'll also include the 3 tomes that guided me through the restoration: Haynes, Chilton's, and "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe. Why am I letting this cherry go? Well, my wife says I can only have one project car at a time, so after 15 years, it's time for this Z to plaster a smile on someone else's face. FYI, this vehicle was previously listed, but I pulled it down so I could use it for a promotional event at my company. Now it's back on the market! Details on upgrades and parts: P79 Cylinder Head from California Datsun, See their product here (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-P79-Engine-Motor-Cylinder-Head-OEM-/153478322664?hash=item23bc0559e8) Work as follows: 1. Complete disassemble, Inspection and Pressure test 2. Re-Surface Intake Gasket Side, Head Gasket Side 3. 3 Angle Valve Job on Seats, 45 Degree on Valves 4. Cleaned , Inspected and Polished Rocker Arms 5. Cleaned, Inspected and Installed OEM stock Springs, Retainers and Lash Pads 6. Cleaned, Inspected and Polished Camshaft. 7. Full Set of new Valve Seals Installed. 8. All threads cleaned and repaired as needed 9. New Freeze Plug, Painted and Full Reassembly with Valve Adjustment F54 Engine Block Hot Tank Cleaning, Magnaflux, Resurface Deck, Rebore and Hone New +0.5mm Pistons, Fresh Paint, New OEM rings New Water Pump New Oil Pump New Timing Chain and Guides Every Seal replaced New Freeze Plugs. Other Upgrades and Restoration Work: 4 piston Front Disc Brakes (1989 Toyota 4X4) Wilwood Master Cylinder K&N Air Filter Fully Rebuilt Z-Therapy “Round Top” SU Carbs New Door Panels Replaced Dashboard Enkei Wheels New Centerforce Clutch 1979 Electronic Distributor 5 Speed Transmission New Front Seats 3 row aluminum radiator Electric Fan Electric Fuel Pump Reconditioned Fuel tank and replaced evaporative system hoses 6-1 Ceramic Powder Coated Headers Polished Intake Manifold with Euro Style Balance Tube (Polished and Painted) Inertial Safety Switch And much more! Advertiser luxetz Date 07/24/2019 Price $22,333.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1973 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) -
THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
Time to sell my 1973 240z- that I brought from Southern California to Pennsylvania 15 years ago. Since that time the Z has been kept in a garage and only driven during Spring, Summer and Fall. She's a head turner of a vehicle- Looks fantastic from 10 feet away. Up close, you'll notice some chips (filled and polished) and cosmetic blemishes, but mechanically this is a rock solid car. Freshly rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles on it. The Enkei wheels really set off the elegant lines of the 240z. Outside of a concours restoration, you won't fine a cleaner engine bay. I'm an engineer by profession and I saw to only the highest quality parts were used in every facet of the restoration. Documentation available for the mechanical work on the engine. I'll also include the 3 tomes that guided me through the restoration: Haynes, Chilton's, and "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe. Why am I letting this cherry go? Well, my wife says I can only have one project car at a time, so after 15 years, it's time for this Z to plaster a smile on someone else's face. FYI, this vehicle was previously listed, but I pulled it down so I could use it for a promotional event at my company. Now it's back on the market! Details on upgrades and parts: P79 Cylinder Head from California Datsun, See their product here (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-P79-Engine-Motor-Cylinder-Head-OEM-/153478322664?hash=item23bc0559e8) Work as follows: 1. Complete disassemble, Inspection and Pressure test 2. Re-Surface Intake Gasket Side, Head Gasket Side 3. 3 Angle Valve Job on Seats, 45 Degree on Valves 4. Cleaned , Inspected and Polished Rocker Arms 5. Cleaned, Inspected and Installed OEM stock Springs, Retainers and Lash Pads 6. Cleaned, Inspected and Polished Camshaft. 7. Full Set of new Valve Seals Installed. 8. All threads cleaned and repaired as needed 9. New Freeze Plug, Painted and Full Reassembly with Valve Adjustment (future adjustment needed after start up) F54 Engine Block Hot Tank Cleaning, Magnaflux, Resurface Deck, Rebore and Hone New +0.5mm Pistons, Fresh Paint, New OEM rings New Water Pump New Oil Pump New Timing Chain and Guides Every Seal replaced New Freeze Plugs. Other Upgrades and Restoration Work: 4 piston Front Disc Brakes (1989 Toyota 4X4) Wilwood Master Cylinder K&N Air Filter Fully Rebuilt Z-Therapy “Round Top” SU Carbs New Door Panels Replaced Dashboard Enkei Wheels New Centerforce Clutch 1979 Electronic Distributor 5 Speed Transmission New Front Seats 3 row aluminum radiator Electric Fan Electric Fuel Pump Reconditioned Fuel tank and replaced evaporative system hoses 6-1 Ceramic Powder Coated Headers Polished Intake Manifold with Euro Style Balance Tube (Polished and Painted) Inertial Safety Switch And much more!$22,333.00
Chester Springs, Pennsylvania - US
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Hello, this is my first topic and I would like some help on my current project. I recently bought a 71’ 240z and I am planning on engine swapping an L28 w/ 4 speed that I also plan to turbo in the near future. I have a couple questions. 1. What driveshaft would I use for this conversion. Would I use a 240z driveshaft or should I use the 280z driveshaft? (I’m not sure if my Z is series 1 or 2 at the moment) 2. When turbo charging an NA L28 what components should I upgrade and what additional parts do I NEED. I’m on a tight budget so don’t tell me I need the most expensive parts. (Have a $1500-$2000 budget for the engine)
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In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.
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Looking for any tips/tricks to replacing the windshield rubber on my 71 240z. I have the FSM but was wondering if anyone who had actually done this repair had any tips or suggestions to help me out before I start
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- NEW
S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, front suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 65$ + shipping /set of 2.$65.00
Montreal , Quebec - CA
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View Advert S30 front suspension mounting brackets S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, front suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 65$ + shipping /set of 2. Advertiser ZCarFever Date 07/03/2019 Price $65.00 Category Parts for Sale
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Where: Southern New Jersey. USA I have 3 pretty rotten but complete(mostly) 240Z cars. The two yellow ones are both early 1970 models. The silver is a 1972. I have both front fenders/wings and grill. All are manual trans and have complete stock drive trains. They have been sitting out in the New Jersey elements for over 25 years. I also have a couple of doors, hatches, a hood, and brand new front fender/wings that are in a dry storage container. I have a few spare blocks, heads, transmissions, rear diffs, etc. I would like to sell this as one complete deal. If I had time I'd just break apart the cars and sell the parts myself, but that is not a project I need right now. I think the lot is worth $5,000 but I'm open to options, ideas, trades. Only contact me if you are truly interested. Thanks, JD
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Hi everybody! Thanks a lot for yor feed-back. I’ve got some news and that’s why I’m here again. Last Tuesday I went to Mr.vitorino shop and started do dismantle the Z…honestly I thought it was a dificult task, but it wasn’t…well, only in some little details. The ca ris in excellent shape as photos will show…I guess this car was restored or deep painted some years ago. Next week We’ll have at least one door rebuilt, below the doors and inside need some intervention. Here are some photos… Rear window acquisition…the car has the horizontal defrost lines and aren’t the correct…I found one vertical and job done…a few years ago I bought one in the USA and came broken…never bought or find anoter one..they are getting rare this days!!! The beggining… Door parts ready for the treatment…Nickel plating Rear floor…not bad!!! I got scared, but fortunately the brown zone is glue…no rust… Door ready for Mr.Vitorino! Original floor carpet…but has to be removed!!! Rear luggage accomodation in excelente shape And now the surprise…the original blue…It can only be seen on some detailed parts..this is one! Replacemente tyre floor…not bad…no rust… The seats will be rédone, but I will only take care of the parts that are completely off… No plastic cover…but I have 2 here…offered by a mate!!! Passenger side floor…the usual…46 years and some bad treatment…the reason…the jack tool…but Mr.vitorino said that’s a part to be redone… Drivers side floor…the usual again…but this one has no concerns…ist’s 75% good…a little intevention. By the end we will apply some Soundproofing board to avoid rust and noise. My helper keeping all the bolts in place! Under the plate no surprises!!!! Datsun logo temporarily off… In my opinion this s the exact moment to restore the car…it has some details that need intervention, and now that he has no rust holes and unrestorable parts the process will be much easier. Hope you like it…next week some more news!!! Regards Mário
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Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading. -
240zrubberparts.com is the home of the original cast rubber and plastic parts, not a 3D printed copy of our product. We own ALL the molds. We provide many reproduction rubber parts that are NLA, or No Longer Available from Nissan. All of our 240z reproduction rubber parts are made in house and we don't outsource any of the rubber parts. Each rubber part is made from the best materials available to ensure you a quality product. You can be sure that these rubber parts will last for years of continuous use. All of our rubber parts are made in the USA and hand inspected for a finish you can be proud of.
