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  1. I'm having intermittent issues with starting up. I believe it is related to the ignition startup. I have read all FSM manuals. The only way I can get it to start is by using a jumper wire from the battery to ignition circuit on the fuse box in the pasenger kick panel. Does anyone know what that means?
  2. I've had my '73 240z for a couple of years and its always run pretty decent, but it overheats in city driving. Last fall I was driving and hit some rush hour and it got pretty hot (about 3/4 of the gauge). After a while I got out of traffic and it started to cool down some, but about a mile from my house it started running really rough and 1/4 mile from my house it died completely. I coasted downhill to my house and pushed it into the garage. It wouldn't start, but I was so tired of the overheating I took the radiator out and got it rodded out. I also installed a fan shroud. After I got
  3. Hello everyone I had a question about voltage. I am a newbie when it comes to wiring and electrical but I did my research and read the forums. I have a 1977 280z and it looks like someone’s been in there trying to figure out the issue. Missing bolts etc. anyways with my multimeter I tested the coil and the resistor and voltage. the voltage was off.. well there was none with the key on the on position, testing on the first terminal on the resistor. so this is what I checked, I went to the battery and checked the cables those are good, car turns over. I looked at the wiring d
  4. Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it
  5. Hey guys, I'm brand new on here. I have a 75 280, and I'm having some issues. As most know, datsun is really weird about switching up their transistor ign modules throughout the years. Mine came with the E12-06, but I had a buddy who had a E12-27 that he'd sell me for cheap, so I grabbed it. However I've run into an issue. The 06 is a 7 pin (non cali), and the 27 is 5 pin, missing a brown and white wire. From what I've seen, the brown is a ground of sorts, but the white goes through the water temp relay to the water temp sensor (I'm assuming to advance/ retard turning when cold or at O.T
  6. My 1974 260z haa uad some difficulty starting. I read up and found the engine has a reset button so I tried this and it would finally turn over, after i had replaced starter and ignition switch, but every wire in the ignition system got so hot they started to smoke... I'm not going to pretend es and I have any idea what's happening. The car has an electrical points upgrade, and an ignition coil from a 240. Currently not messing with it for fear of burning all my wires completely. Please help!
  7. I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the pa
  8. I have a question for the electrical experts: I bought a Beck Arnley aftermarket ignition switch to replace the 40-year-old OE switch in my '70 Z. Seemed like a good preventative maintenance step, with the steering column currently out of the car. However, I've found puzzling difference in the operating logic of the two switches. It has to do with the switches' 'R' circuit, which I'm pretty sure means, 'Resistor' (as in, ballast resistor for the coil/tach circuit). With input power applied to each switch module by way of the 'B' (battery) terminal and output monitored at the 'R' te
  9. Hi all, have been reading these forums for a long time but first time poster. Happy to be here I bought a 71 240z that was sitting for 4 years. Engine is complete, and cranks well but does not start. I already suspect a carb rebuild... But I thought I'd start with spark. When I first got the car in my garage I noticed no spark at all from the coil to the valve cover, cranking or not. Saw that the guy i bought it from wired the Pertronix Ignitor negative wire to the positive post on the coil, and the positive wire from the Ignitor to the ballast resistor. Since its a 3ohm coil, I wired the
  10. I recently acquired a 71 240Z. The car was sitting for the better part of 4 years however it started on first turn. The gentleman who owned it before did what's necessary to keep it in running condition. Although the car was drivable it would occasionally hesitate or sputter in 3rd or 4th gear at cruise speeds. It was evident there was a sediment in the fuel filter. I decided to due a tune up for good measure and ordered major tune up kit from MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4700). I changed the fuel filter first then started the car to ensure it started. Success. I th
  11. I recently installed the Crane xr3000 and used the 14 gauge wire - per the Crane instructions. However my tach is not steady and it will drop sometimes between shifts. It just generally works poorly. I have heard of a fix for this - anyone know what it is.
  12. Is any one out there knowledgable about the Crane Fireball ignition system? I have a 83 zx turbo I bought about a month ago.When I first got car, I had to tear dash and heater out and go through all wiring. PO had a dual battery system installed with fuel pump relayed through rear battery Ive got everything back as close to stock wiring as Ime able,not being too electrically adept myself. Ive got fuel pump operating through relay, as Iwasnt able to get power back to fuel pump through stock wiring, even though all relays tested good.Anyway, thats all solved.My problem now is that Ime getting no
  13. Hi all, new guy here. I will take this opportunity to introduce myself and my car. About me My name is Mario, I live in Cedar Rapids, IA. I'm in my low 30s (for those who care), I like to work on cars, but I don't have a whole lot of detailed experience, however I'm very willing to learn. In early April igot the car (I wasn't necessarily looking for one, it found me). I've knew about 2X0Z for a while (my father in-law has two of 240Z sitting in his backyard rusting away ) but when this deal came I could not refuse. About the car 1978 280Z, 59,XXX miles when I got it. Original, survival (I
  14. Installing a GM HEI Ignition Module into a 1976 280Z (which already had a ZX ignition) This article describes how to upgrade a ZX ignition module to a GM HEI module. In this particular case, the ZX ignition module happened to be installed in a 1976 280Z which had been upgraded to a ZX distributor/ignition module using the Atlantic Z Club instructions. The purpose of the HEI install was to fix a sudden engine cut-out problem and a jumpy tach problem. Heat Sink The first thing I needed was a nice heat sink and, afters scouring the basement and considering attacking an old Western Electric te
  15. My 280Z uses an MSD 6A ignition. I need to hook up the tachometer, but I don't know what to do. More specifically, the 6A has a grey wire that is related to the tachometer. I imagine the tachometer has some input wire that is looking for a specific voltage. My 6A is in my engine bay on the right side (near the relay box). Is there some convenient way for me to hook this up? I would prefer not having to run a wire through the firewall and splicing stuff onto my tach. Also, I do have the 8910 MSD module that is apparently required for correct functioning. Thanks! EDIT: Here is what I see in the
  16. Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done
  17. I've been asked by many members and non members about my ignition set-up and after writing the info so many times, I figure it would'nt hurt to post the needed info here at CZCC. And now you can send this thread link to others who may be looking for the same info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I typically put a lot of praise on the Unilite, versus the worn bearings and parts of the stock distributor. Changing the set-up from points to infra-red is always a great idea but it's like putting a New head on an Old block, the head can't perform optimumly because the pistons and rin
  18. This has happened at 50 MPH and when slowing down at a redlight. The tach goes crazy and then the car quits. If the car is moving, it restarts itself.... when I slow down for a redlight and it quits, I am able to restart the car and continue on. I have been told this means the Ignition Module is dying. Do ya'll agree? If so where can I get an Ignition Module for a 1977 280Z Coupe, base model. Thanks for any help Tommy 678-763-6939 jthill3@att.net
  19. I have a 74 260 z. She has had some troble with starting. I rebuilt her but the wireing is so back wards I literaly can't get it straight. It died on me on my way back from a dent. app. luckily i had a timing light in the car so i could tell the coil stoped getting power. So I ran a wire straight from the battery to the coil for about 45 miles until I found the EGR valve wire was running 6/8 volts and hooked it to the ignition coil. Having long ago removing the EGR entirely. Then a month later the starter just stops working, New starter btw, and rechecked. Tried to wire the seat belt saft
  20. Hey all, So I'm a bit new to working on cars, done a little work here and there but am still pretty much an amateur when it comes to this stuff, so any help would be greatly appreciated! I have a 1978 280z, did a tranny swap and made it a manual a few months back, but lately I've had a few problems with the ignition. It usually does one of the following: 1. Start right up. 2. Start up and slowly whines and dies. 3. Turn the key and it clicks (under the dash, I believe it's the relay) and then there's a second click somewhere from the engine and it either starts or it doesnt. 4. Turn the key a
  21. So, working on the project 280z today, I grabbed my key and turned the lock. It immediately felt like a weird turn of the key, like the key had kind of fallen out a bit mid turn. Afterwards I realized that this key (got 6 with the car) is a bit smaller than the key I normally use. Must be an older key, or a door key or something. Oops. After the turn I was able to pull the key out easily. It goes back into the lock fully and easily too. The 'real' key doesn't really fit in the lock now, but the smaller one I used goes all the way in. Getting it to OFF though is another matter. It's stuck in O
  22. I have a 1974 late model 260z. I am getting no power to the coil in any ignition position. I have replaced the ignition switch and lock. Needed a new lock anyway. I tested for continunity at the switch connector with the switch in the different positions Seems I have continunity. I checked the coil with a multi meter with the negative end grounded to the strut tower bolts and the positive on the coil positive, no power then I did the same for the negative side, no power. I did the same with the coil resistor at all connections...same thing no power there either. Where could I be losing power
  23. I am trying to determine if my ignition switch is bad. Some history on the issue: I have a starter button which connects directly to the starter. The starter will engage without the key by pressing the button. It will however not start if the ignition switch is not in the on position. I believe this is because there is no electrical flow or spark. Currently I have no electric flow when the key is in the arse or ON position, ie no wipers, blower etc. Also no spark. I used a multi meter and tested all 5 wire connectors that hook to the ignition switch, I have power in one only it is the white /r
  24. I hooked a timing light and with with the dist lined with the timing mark at the adjustment nut the crank pulley timing mark is not even close to the timing degree tab. If I remove the dist nut and crank it as far as it will go towards the drivers side the timing mark gets closer to the crank pulley and timing tab but still a good 1/2 inch away from the entire degree measurement tab. Whats the deal. It also seems to idle way too high. All the carb idle throttle speed screws, balance screws etc are backed out to the point they are not even touching anything but the rpms are 1200 to 1300. It doe
  25. '73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Ch
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