Jump to content

SeanT

Members
  • Content Count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About SeanT

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    seattle

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1976 280z and a 76 280z 2+2 parts car

Recent Profile Visitors

819 profile views
  1. So I got it working fine again i hooked it all back up and tried hitting the fuel dampener the thing after the pump and it seam to fix the problem and shes running again.
  2. I took the hose off after the filter and there was no pressure. I had almost 12v back at the tank. I took the pump out and put it to a battery and it works. I didnt check to see if there was 12v at the tank before taking out the pump.
  3. I went to start up my 1976 280z and it didnt fire up, so i checked the spark and it was fine. So i took off the cover of the air flow sensor to check the fuel pump and i heard the relay click but not the fuel pump. So i took the pump out and it works then checked the power to it and had 11.8 or 11.3 volts or something. I plain to re hook up the pump to the connectors to see if it works now, and there was just something in it that i shook lose when i took it out. Is there anything else i should check or another shut off for the pump. -Thank You
  4. I had a problem like this and i found there was a bad connection in the connectors of the two red wires with a blue strip comming from the actual part where you put the key.
  5. I measured the black and the black white wire connecting to the module.
  6. After i charged it for a bit i read 12.7 and 12.3 or so at the module i swiched it out and what do you know it fired up. Thank you for all your help really appreciate it.
  7. I switched out the pick ups and it sill didnt fire so i when to the tests for the module and i found that it only had 11.33 volts and the battery had 12.05 or something. Ill try charging the battery and see if the voltage changes. Will the module not getting 12 volts be the problem. I took the other module out but havent put it in yet, it had two cross threaded screws so ill have to switch out the thermal block to try the other one.
  8. Im not intimidated by it I already took it out and cleand the contacts, I also opened up the plate and looked inside and it all looked really clean and sprayed the whole inside down with terminal cleaner. Im just making my way down the list. If this doesnt fix the problem the module will be the next thing on the list.
  9. At the bottom of this thread EuroDat posted a check list and ive been going through it and found it helpful.
  10. Hey, so today i found that one of the pick-ups had no resitance the other had about 700 so i am switching them with two from a spare distruptor that came with 2+2. they both have good resitance. I also found that the condencer's blue male wire was brocken and just shoved into the hole and it didnt have a good ground so i put the one from the 2+2 in. The coil also read 1.3 oms so it sould be good.
  11. Alright tomorrow ill look into the distributor and ill clean the contacts on the module or switch it over and see what happens. Thank you for helping me out so far.
  12. Ill look in to the pick up in the distriutor i noiced that the tach doesnt move when its turning over i cant remember if it did before or not. I was looking on page EE-33 and noticed mine looked differentI also noticed that on my 1976 parts car it was diffent then the one on my car. the parts car one looks the same as the manual. This is what mine looks like.
  13. I took a muli meter and I hooked one end to a ground and on to the stud on the coil and there is 12 volts on both the positive and negative sides of the coil when the key is on. My grandpa said this should be happening and thats why he thinks it is the computer ignition uint that is bad.
  14. I cleaned the battery connecters and every thing and every thing is working again but there is still no spark. I was going through the wiring diagram and he believes that the problem is the transistor ignition unit under the dash. I was reading that some one disconnected the the condencer and his car ran again. There is a thing that kind of looks like a condencer by the coil. but it has a wire going it to it then comming out out of it that goes to the air flow meter. then there is a nother thing that look like a condencer with one wire going in to it on the altinator. does any one know about disconnecting the condencer and where it is. I havent had any smells or fizzes but ill keep looking. - Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.