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Found 20 results

  1. First post here but have been a spectator for about 4 months trying to absorb as much information as possible. I recently obtained a 1975 Datsun 280Z from my neighbor who purchased the car new as an anniversary present for his wife. He owned the local Datsun dealership at the time so all maintenance was done by his dealership. She drove the car until it had about 106,000 miles at which time she got a new car with an automatic transmission (this was a 4 speed car). The car has had a pampered life. She always garaged it and took good care of it. He put a non op with the DMV, pulled the plugs and
  2. Still trying to get this 78 running...old mechanic working on it for me ( I know very little)...have drained tank, PO seems to have cleaned it; new fuel pump (walpro); gaslines blown out; fuel pressure tested at filter(new) at about 45#; he says he checked and cleaned(?) all electrical connections; new fuel injectors (ebay) and seals; AFM cleaned. Now he says he checked the TPS, cleaned contacts and it runs "better" but not like it should...aftermarket TPS seems to be only available now thru the zcar place in Ariz at $125.+ Any suggestions before I throw more parts at this thing?
  3. Hey everyone, I have been a long time lurker on many forums and I have decided to post some questions because I am at the point where I believe I need guidance on next steps and want to make the right decision. The car I am working on is a 78 280z California Car. It is not my car, it is my parents car that I bought them as a gift 10 years ago. It has been a long time since I have driven the car so I don’t recall its characteristics but it always had a presence of fuel smell in the exhaust. The car was parked because the fuel smell and rough driving started getting worse. The car then sat for a
  4. Z ran when parked Had it running in January after I chased down a misfire issue that came from a faulty ECU. She ran mint so I began my tear down, months later here we are and I thought Id have it running today but no luck. Heres what I got so far from trouble shooting. My battery is fully charged (tender says 100%), its less than a year old. My digital multimeter has it showing about 12.8 yet when I put the car on the "ON" position, my battery gauge in the dash reads about 8.5. I tested the ECU pins with a dmm and it will read 8 and change. Is this normal? Is this a fault in the vol
  5. Hello I just bought a 1976 280z, My first z but i have done a lot of research on them. It will start up easily and run cold well at around 800rpm. But once it warms up (the temp gauge is about in the middle.) It will drop down to 500rpm and stutter. If I give it barley any throttle to bring it to 800 rpm it is fine but if I go up to 1000-1200rpm it will back fire through the intake and exhaust. The plugs are back but not fouled. If I manually control the AFM it will run fine. I also unplugged the connector to the cold start injector but it did not seem to change anything. I am thinking th
  6. gwri8

    DSC01377.jpg

    From the album: 77 280

    1977 Bone Stock L28E, Bosch EFI
  7. Update: Just want to thank everyone who has replied. I haven't fixed the problem but its great to hear other peoples opinions and suggestions! So i just want to start off by saying I am in no way an experienced mechanic. I am having a problem with my 1977 Datsun 280z and am willing to hear anyone's thoughts. So I haven't driven this car much. i bought it and it had a leak in the exhaust manifold. Since i had to take it all off i decided to buy headers. While removing the EGR tube, the tube was damaged so I decided to remove the EGR. I remove the EGR use a block off plate from a Z s
  8. Hey guys got my fuel injection up for sale because im not smart enough for it..lol im located in salem oregon.
  9. gwri8

    DSC01371.jpg

    From the album: 77 280

    1977 Bone Stock L28E, Bosch EFI
  10. Hi Z enthusiasts. I have a '78 280Z with 64k miles and is in stock condition. I have never had the problem I am having right now with it in the three or so years I've had it. It has just started to run somewhat rough, almost like it is not running on all cylinders, maybe down one. It holds an idle but is not as smooth as it used to be. When driving, it feels down on power throughout the rev range and no matter how much throttle is applied. At idle, it will gradually accelerate overall fine but still with somewhat of a stumble, and as mentioned down on power when driving. When more abrup
  11. I have a 1977 280z with running issues. What's wrong is that when I start the car, it cranks over fine and will start fine but after the initial start it will immediately bog down and either die or run on like 3-4 cylinders :sick: It helps tons when I push the AFM in about 25% of the way, but If I let it go on its own the car sputters and bogs down again or dies. With the AFM pushed on full (the top cover is off) I can slowly push the car up to a fairly high rpm, 5000 or so, but I can't seem to do quick revs or the car will backfire even with it in all the way. Here are some of the things I'
  12. Hi I'm new to this page and the car only owning it for 2 months. Being 17 and being used to dealing with carburetors. So to the issue it is running rich I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the 7th injector plug, have adjusted the air/fuel screw also but still getting too much fuel, please help.
  13. I just had my tank media blasted, boiled, and sealed. While doing so I delivered a Competition Engineering sump to be installed as a part of my fuel system upgrade. When I got it back, instead of drilling out three - five holes in the floor of the tank and welding in the sump, they cut out the bottom of the tank the size of the while sump. As a result the sump is now not baffled. I don't like it and am not happy with it but the vendor basically said, "Too bad unless you want to pay us to fix it." I took my tank and left. I have a real concern about the sump not being baffled properly and in lo
  14. Hi, I wanted to clean my engine and the compartment yesterday. I picked up some spray from AutoZone, and was careful to cover and tape the coil (pulled the main wire to make it easier), the battery, and the distributor. I sprayed, let it sit, scrubbed a bit, and rinsed. I used a towel to wipe down, and then removed the tape and coverings. The engines started fine, idled fine, and I thought I was on my way. I took off down the street, but as soon as I got to 2,700 rpm’s the fuel seemed to simply shut off. It didn’t die, but picked back up around 2,200 rpm’s. I limped back home and found t
  15. Hey guys I need help converting my Datsun to fuel injected since I plan to put a l28t in her. I was just asking for tips and important things I need for the car. Also would be wonderful if you guys got any sites were I can obtain some parts
  16. I have a 1971 240z and i want to know how hard it is to put in a fuel injection system or how long would it take?
  17. Ok I have a 78 280z i bought not running and fully rebuilt internally. Something was "mentioned" about fuel problems when i got it but the internals were in need of rebuilding anyhow (slightly bent intake valves). I have got everything back up and going except that my injectors have NO POWER to them. I believe that charger wires were crossed on the batt also! So ive been checking for the injection relay-but there is much discrepancy between where it is located on the 78 Model. I found the one by the battery under hood, but the cabin one i did not see by the ecu or passenger kick panel? Anyo
  18. Ok I have a 78 280z i bought not running and fully rebuilt internally. Something was "mentioned" about fuel problems when i got it but the internals were in need of rebuilding anyhow (slightly bent intake valves). I have got everything back up and going except that my injectors have NO POWER to them. I believe that charger wires were crossed on the batt also! So ive been checking for the injection relay-but there is much discrepancy between where it is located on the 78 Model. I found the one by the battery under hood, but the cabin one i did not see by the ecu or passenger kick panel? Anyon
  19. I just bought a 280z engine for my 240z. It's got fuel injection so i'm removing it for carbs. I know what I need to do to take it off, but i don't own an air compressor or tools for them. Is it needed? or am i able to get by with had tools. I've also taken off the clutch and flywheel to mount it onto the engine stand. I assume to get the clutch back on it might take a little extra torque. Any help would be great. Thanks.
  20. The car starts up pretty well, though every once in a while it'll immediately die, and takes some coaxing with the accelerator to get it to stay running. When idling, at first rpms will hover around 800-850, then slowly drift down. The car starts running rough, rumbling, until it gets down below 700 rpms and dies. Also, when coming to a stop and idle after swift acceleration, the car stinks of exhaust fumes and gasoline. Is this a fuel injector problem? I was going to replace my fuel filter; would that be a waste before i know what's causing the problem? --------------------- 1976 280z Automat
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