Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '280z'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Interior
  • Exterior
  • Electrical
  • Engine & Drivetrain
  • Fuel System
  • Exhaust
  • Body & Paint
  • Suspension & Steering
  • Wheels, Tires & Brakes
  • Z News
  • Technical Articles

Forums

  • CAR TALK
    • Z Cars
    • ZX Cars
    • 510 Cars
    • 240K Skyline Cars
    • Aftermarket
    • Roadster
    • Racing
    • Fairlady
    • History
    • Concepts & Rumors
  • CLASSIC ZCAR CLUB
    • Chatterbox
    • Regional Forums
    • Video Center
    • Technical Articles
    • Club Website
  • SHOPPING
    • Vendor Marketplace
    • Classified Ad Forums
    • Garage Businesses
    • Group Buys
  • NW Arkansas Z Car Club's Discussions
  • Maryland Z Club's Discussions
  • Midwestern Z Club's Z Chat
  • Midwestern Z Club's Classifieds

Calendars

  • Zcar Events and Shows
  • Zcar Club Washington
  • Classic Car Shows

Categories

  • Wiring Diagrams
  • Microfiche
  • Service Documents
  • Factory Service Manuals
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
  • Manuals
    • Owner Manuals
  • Website Support
  • CAD Files
  • Software Tools
  • Tech Articles

Product Groups

  • Club Merchandise
  • Direct Advertising
  • Club Membership
  • Club Donations

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Z Cars
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
    • 350z
    • 370z
  • Other Models
    • 240k
    • 510
    • Skyline
    • Wagon
    • Trucks
    • Roadster
    • Sedan
  • Other Brands
    • Cars
    • Motorcycles
    • Trucks
    • Pets

Categories

  • For Sale
    • Cars for Sale
    • Parts for Sale
  • Want Ads
    • Cars Wanted
    • Parts Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype ID


Facebook Page


Real Name


Birthday

Between and

Map Location


Occupation


ZCCA Membership ID


About my Cars


Zcar 1 VIN


Zcar 2 VIN


Zcar 3 VIN


Zcar 4 VIN


Zcar 5 VIN

Found 176 results

  1. I've been working on getting the electrical side of my '78 280z back to working and have run into a few issues. First off, my low beams do not work and I have confirmed its a grounding issue somewhere between the headlight plug and the switch by grounding it manually which makes them work. This also makes the high and low beams run at the same time which is not good. Second, while I was installing an upgraded wiper motor to replace my broken original one I had the motor working for a few minutes before lengthening the wires for permanent install then it stopped working completely even rewired multiple times. Third, My Blinkers do not work because I don't get power to the turn signal stock. When in the middle position it has 12v but in the two turn positions it has 0v. I have taken apart, cleaned, and made sure my combo switch works so I don't believe that works. I have also looked at the FSM but I am not sure where to go from here.
  2. Greetings, Ive been a Z owner in my own right since 2008 (1992 300ZX N/A) but inherited I inherited a 1971 240Z which needed a lot of work. In 2012 I unfortunately had to sell it to a good friend (ortegadrives on youtube). My father told me when I sold the 240Z that his 1977 280Z was as good as mine. My father has a friend interested in buying my 300ZX, which currently has electrical issues but overall solid car regardless. I purchased a Rebello 3.1 Stroker (actually from Dave Record in 2007 to install in the 240Z, still best purchase of my life). The stock 280Z engine was removed roughly 3 years ago by myself and OrtegaDrives and the engine bay is empty. We have a 5 speed transmission from an 82 280ZX, and a R200 LSD rear end. I have a list of to do items: Remove and clean fuel tank remove rear end/install R200 drop in Rebello w/5 speed transmission new fuel filter/fuel pump New fuel line (possibly) new tires/wheels brake job bushings Other than that, this car hasn't ran since July 1996. Is there anything I may be overlooking that must be checked out? Thanks for any helpful hints or advice! Mike
  3. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    1978 280z, 5 speed transmission Smog certified on April 13th. Has never failed Runs great but needs a number of repairs and general attention. Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with around 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it isn’t fair to the car. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), carpeting, radio and speakers, new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 1976 240z. This car is a joy to drive. On the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day. Best conversation starter, ever—but you probably know all about that... - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised to it as well as regular maintenance. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch, in one wheel well, on two rails (not structural—apologies for ignorance of terminology!), other incidental spots—see photos - Window tinting needs removal and/or replacement - RPM gauge seems stuck. No, I lie, it has repaired itself—as it does - Driver’s side door doesn’t completely latch sometimes (when warmed up). I lock the door when driving but it’s gotta be fixed of course. - Removed several badges when had car stripped and painted but have them. - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has a rusty rim and has transferred rust stains to well. I do not believe the spare wheel well is itself rusting. Have included all the undercarriage rust photos I have but no room left for the rust-less majority. This car is in remarkable shape. And now I’ve organized the renovation receipts I can tell you that They cost about $15K. Maintenance and small repairs takes it beyond $20K... Hence her devastating allure~ Let me know if you’d like further photos or information. Thank you

    $8,000.00

  4. 1978 280z Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with under 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it just isn’t fair to the car. Well maintained, never failed a smog test. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 240z. This car is a joy to drive. When I’m on the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day! Best conversation starter, ever, but you probably know all about that... Will have a price once tune up and general check up done. - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised— as you can see. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has transferred rust stains to well. Next up: service and repair record, or as much as I can lay my hands on. Let me know if need further photos. Thank you for interest and advice!
  5. View Advert 1978 280z for sale 1978 280z, 5 speed transmission Smog certified on April 13th. Has never failed Runs great but needs a number of repairs and general attention. Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with under 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it isn’t fair to the car. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), carpeting, radio and speakers, new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 1976 240z. This car is a joy to drive. On the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day. Best conversation starter, ever—but you probably know all about that... - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised to it as well as regular maintenance. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch - Window tinting needs removal and/or replacement - RPM gauge seems stuck - Driver’s side door doesn’t completely latch sometimes. I lock the door when driving but it’s gotta be fixed of course. - Removed several badges when had car stripped and painted but have them. - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has transferred rust stains to well. Let me know if you’d like further photos or information. Thank you Advertiser A Delory Date 04/15/2019 Price $8,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS30445754  
  6. Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color electrical diagram. According to the parts manual Pos 19 is the two (outside) links A and C with a value of 1.25 Pos 18, link B and D have two values, which doesn't make sense, 0.3 and 0.5. That corresponds with one brown 0.3 and the green 0.5. Did nissan get this mixed up? Looks like I should have two blacks for A and C, one green for B and one brown for D. That doesn't match the three reds and a black on the diagram. Could be just color changes over the years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks Eurodat
  7. Hi, right now i am in the process of fixing all small issues with my Fairlady. Since you guys already helped me I want to try my luck a second time. I had a look at the vacuum lines and to me they seem to be set up in a weird way. The car is a '78 280Z with a 280ZX engine (L28E F54 block with P79 head) converted to Ztherapy SU carbs and original AC. The engine runs fine apart from a slight fluctuation in idle speed (every 3-5 second it goes up from 800rpm to maybe 840rpm and then back down again). I checked all the FSMs to use the correct terms in my drawing and I added three pictures of the current situation. Especially the wrong plumming of the servo diaphragm and control valve +the missing connection to the carbon canisters vacuum signal line seems odd to me. If i understand the original piping correctly then I would expect that the servo diaphragm is doing nothing in this setup (have to check if it moves during let go of the throttle) and that the carbon canister is only doing its job in 'idle mode' due to the bypass mentioned in the haynes manual (because the valve for the purge line is never opened by the vacuum signal line). Another point is the missing of the EFI specific FCID. The AC is not working at the moment so i don't know if the car runs fine without raising the idle rpm. I wonder if it would make sense to pipe the FCID magnet valve to the control valve to use it as a 'carb FCID'? My overall question to the experts is 'Do i need to be concered about this vacuum setup (do i need the servo diaphragm/carbon canister to do their work) or is this maybe a clever solution?' Thanks in advance for your time and help. Picture 1: Picture 2. Picture 3.
  8. Version N

    180 downloads

    The 77 280z wiring diagram in color. PDF Support Topic in our forums:

    Free

  9. https://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30 ***** SPECIAL CLASSICZCARS.COM DISCOUNT FOR US MEMBERS! ***** PM me for details on how to get a discount on your order from Silvermine Motors! Hi everyone! I am documenting the installation of the Silvermine Motors EPS system in my 1976 280Z Restomod. My car is currently in the restoration and rebuild phase and I have purchased the system to help improve the steering and response of the 280Z. I will post pictures and document the system as it goes in and gets hooked up to the various components for all to see. My first impressions are very good. The system is compact and looks extremely well made. I mounted the steering column into the firewall using the supplied firewall plate. I had a small alignment issue which located the steering column down and to the right of the mounting tabs on the pedal box assembly. A small amount of pulling on the shaft allowed it to align with the mounting tabs and no further issues were encountered. No negative impact to the firewall or the adapter plate. This may have been due to the variation in positioning between different cars during manufacturing of the firewall etc, or it may have been a bad day for the positioning jig at Silvermine! Not that it really impacted the installation in the end... The other side of the firewall was straight forward. Attach the U-joint adapter to the shaft and to your connecting rod and you're done! The connections were precise and well made with quality looking fittings. The splines were clean and fit perfect. The splined edges of the connecting rod are beveled to allow the connecting bolts to lock the parts together. All that remains at this point is to: - locate the proper place to mount the control box. This will wait till more of the underdash components are in place to allow proper placement. - wire up the controls! Edan's @silverminemotors website has simple instructions for the wiring. I will post more as the restoration progresses and the system gets wired up!
  10. A few months ago I started this thread on this site but had to leave for school and couldn't work on the car. From this point, I have tested a few things and found at least one problem. Previously it was suggested to check the fuel pressure and after the engine dies it is still at 32 psi. Also in the previous post I mentioned the first time the car died like this was on the road after I clutched in, upon looking around the clutch pedal I found this red wire in the ECU loom that was worn away by the pedal. I haven't traced it yet so this could be part of the problem. Just to save a click here is the original problem post from me : I have a 1978 280z that I've recently put back together after rebuilding the engine, rust work, and paint. I've gotten the car to the point that it has run three times for various lengths of time. The second time running, I timed it and got it as close as possible but ran out of adjustment on the distributor. When it ran this time I had it on for around 25 minutes and with the initial break-in done decided to go for a ride. I made it 1/2 a mile down the road before it died grabbing fourth and wouldn't run afterward. After an emergency tow home, it would briefly fire up for maybe one second and then die. The next afternoon I tested to see if I had fuel flowing to the rail (I haven't tested pressure) and there is definitely fuel flowing while cranking. Knowing this, I tried running it again and it fired right up and idled for about a minute until I pushed the clutch in to back out of the garage where it died and would not restart. At this point, I have done lots of troubleshooting to get it to this point and any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock! Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler KVID0467.mp4 KVID0466.mp4 KVID0864.mp4
  12. Moving next month, so time to let go of some parts that I know will not be applicable with the direction the build is heading. All prices are negotiable. Listed prices do not include shipping. We will discuss once I can provide you an estimate. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for looking! I tried to give two pictures per item (pictures will follow in response). Prices are as follows. ECU x2: $70 each PENDING Rearview Mirror x2 (one in good condition, second needs refurbishing on rear side): $10/5 respectively ONE SOLD (good condition mirror) Datsun Horn Pad (scratches around bezel): $5 Coin Tray (good condition, has expected oxidation): $3 SOLD Antenna Assembly: $15 SOLD Dash Air Vent (finish peeling around adjustment lever): $10 Driver's Side Armrest, Black: $15 PENDING 1977/78 Tachometer: $60 1977/78 Complete Speedometer with sensor: $60 1977/78 Fuel Gauge/Volt Meter x2: $30 each BOTH SOLD Water Temp/Oil Temp x2 (One is '75/76, one is '77/78): $30 each Clock: $20 PENDING Turn Signal Actuator: $40 PENDING Lights/Wiper Actuator x2 (one 75/maybe 76, will confirm, other 77/78): $50 each Air/AC/Heater Control Mechanism: $15 Bosch Fuel Dampner: $50 Center Console Vent/Light Piece (w/ Floor and Fuel Indicators): $20 SOLD Interior Panel, Black, Rear Hatch Tail Light cover: $15 SOLD Wind Shield Wipers x2 (Chrome Pair and Black Pair): $5 per pair Interior Door Handle Chrome Brackets (minor oxidation): $10 for pair Exterior Front Fender Indicator Lights (amber): $15 PENDING Exterior Rear Fender Indicator Lights (red): $15 PENDING 4Spd Shift Knob (black leather green face, with spare face): $15 Emergency brake leather cover, Black: $5 SOLD Wiper motor: $5 SOLD Evap Canister (normal wear and tear): $3 SOLD Rubber Intake hose with connectors (confirming application, possible ZX): $5 Blower Assembly: $40 SOLD Mark Ten B CDI System (unused with all documents and packaging): $40 77/78 Front Door Cards, Black with Silver/Woodgrain (some minor peeling along ends with chrome) : $70 for pair PENDING Updated 9 Jan 10:00pm (EST). Thank you again! -Chris
  13. I have some S30 parts from a parts box that I don't need anymore. 280z alternator(nearly new) - 30$ 280z external voltage regulator (even newer) - 10$ 280z thermostat housing with sensors - 30$ Sold S30 dash clock - 40$ S30 Temp and oil pressure guage - 30$ 280z charcoal canister - 20$ 280z light/turn signal combo switch - 80$ Sold 280z ECU A11-601-000 - 50$ 280z complete injection harness with ECU, AFM and ballast resister, uncut from running car- 200$ 280z 76 vacuum bottle - 20$ 280z Ac bracket w/ pulley - 40$ 280z starter - 50$ 280z 77 distributor - 40$ 280z relay bracket - 20$ 280z taillight set (will be cleaned) - 100$ see anything else in the picture you want let me know Parts located in 95926, Willing to ship for prices above + real shipping price
  14. Complete matched set of nearly NOS 1979-1983 Datsun/Nissan 280ZX 4 spoke Iron Cross wheels with center caps and chrome bolts. I purchased them from dealer parts department around 1978. They were pulled from a new car by the dealer (owner wanted wire baskets). They were never re-installed and have been in my garage almost 40 years. They should also fit earlier Datsun 280Z as that was the car I was going to install them onto. However, I traded the car for a new 280ZX and kept them as backup wheels in case of theft. A set of NOS center caps can go for as much as $250 on ebay. A very worn set of rims with center caps goes for about $300 plus shipping. I was quoted $890 for a refinished set (they are currently out of stock and don’t expect replacement for months) plus tax and shipping and would not include the bolts. These are like new. Asking $750. Barry - bfinck51@gmail.com
  15. 240z70

    Quiet Muffler

    I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
  16. 240z70

    PARTS WANTED

    Looking for these parts: Throttle lever and Knob 240z door springs -(springs only) Functional Volt Gauge Let me know if you have it and if so how much to buy it - shipping included- to San Jose California USA If you need parts, also let me know.. I have some misc. available.
  17. I have a 1978 280z that I've recently put back together after rebuilding the engine, rust work, and paint. I've gotten the car to the point that it has run three times for various lengths of time. The second time running, I timed it and got it as close as possible but ran out of adjustment on the distributor. When it ran this time I had it on for around 25 minutes and with the initial break-in done decided to go for a ride. I made it 1/2 a mile down the road before it died grabbing fourth and wouldn't run afterward. After an emergency tow home, it would briefly fire up for maybe one second and then die. The next afternoon I tested to see if I had fuel flowing to the rail (I haven't tested pressure) and there is definitely fuel flowing while cranking. Knowing this, I tried running it again and it fired right up and idled for about a minute until I pushed the clutch in to back out of the garage where it died and would not restart. At this point, I have done lots of troubleshooting to get it to this point and any help would be greatly appreciated.
  18. 97 downloads

    A high resolution wiring diagram for the 280z.

    Free

  19. Hey everyone, I have been a long time lurker on many forums and I have decided to post some questions because I am at the point where I believe I need guidance on next steps and want to make the right decision. The car I am working on is a 78 280z California Car. It is not my car, it is my parents car that I bought them as a gift 10 years ago. It has been a long time since I have driven the car so I don’t recall its characteristics but it always had a presence of fuel smell in the exhaust. The car was parked because the fuel smell and rough driving started getting worse. The car then sat for a year and a half and now its time to get it back up and running. All the items addressed have been done within the past four months. Disclaimer: There is a lot of information here and if I am unclear on anything please let me know. I am trying to get some conversations going and wanted to put my best foot forward. Symptoms Bogging/hesitation/stuttering under any load to the point where the car can’t be driven, can’t emphasize this enough. Car idles immaculately Backfiring through the AFM Fuel smell through exhaust Current State Timing: 10° BTDC Idle: 800 RPM Aftermarket exhaust header and muffler EGR deleted Air regulator removed Coldstart injector still on rail but disconnected electronically Thermotime switch disconnected electronically Items that have been addressed Spark: New Plugs (NGK at .039in gap) New Wires (NGK) New Coil (MSD Blaster) Rebuilt ZX distributor (RockAuto) Vacuum advance confirmed working New Cap New Rotor Fuel: New fuel injector connectors Injectors reconditioned from Fuel Injection Services (confirmed working) New Walbro 255 fuel pump Tank removed and checked for rust Fuel hard lines cleared with compressed air New fuel filters (pre and post pump) Inline gauge added between filter and rail Air: AFM has been calibrated per atlanticZcar site rebuild guide Bench tested for smooth sweep (open to close) Calibrated spring force with water weights New PCV valve Engine: Valves adjusted to: Intake: .008in Exhaust: .010in TDC mark confirmed correct on main pulley Distributer shaft confirmed 11:25 position Leakdown test performed Compression test performed Electrical: New coolant sensor New coolant sensor connector New TPS wiring connector Contacts cleaned with deoxit ECU Harness tested in car to EFI Bible specifications Results Leak down and compression test performed cold because the vehicle was not running at the time. The AFM sweep was performed using a 9VDC battery and an arduino. I did two sweeps of the door by hand as smooth and slow as possible. The third sweep I intentionally pulsed the door through the sweep motion by hand to see if something else would happen. I did not see any signs of a bad circuit. The FSM provides a table relating resistance to temperature for the air temperature sensor and coolant temperature sensor. I generated a chart using this data in both °C(Blue) and °F(Orange). The trend is not linear so a polynomial trend(Thin Orange) was generated so I could plug in a measured value to determine a temperature. The table also provides acceptable ranges within specific temperatures so I added error bars to show this acceptable range. The test environment(Green and Yellow circle) was what the temperature should be and the measured (pink) value was within the error bar at that condition. I went through the circuit testing per the FSM and found nothing alarming. Observations Advancing the timing beyond the timing marks helps but doesn’t resolve the overall issue. Timing at 10° makes the car impossible to drive. Timing at 25°-30° makes it bearable but only above 30% throttle. Future State I have worked through what I believe to be the cheapest items to inspect and now believe it is time to find a new AFM and ECU set. Everything appears to be correct and by the book. Should I try to find a 78 280z ECU/AFM for a CA car, or should I find one for any 280z car (non CA). I have toyed with going standalone because at this point I am tired of poking around in the dark trying to troubleshoot this car. I need some assistance from people who have experience with the FI systems on these cars and I don't know anyone locally to reach out to. If I am unclear on something, please ask and I will provide.
  20. Complete set of triple Weber 40DCOE carburetors ready to bolt on. Includes velocity stacks, air filters, choke cable and throttle linkage all connected and ready to install on your motor. Also includes a modified throttle spring mounting bracket and a Ferrari throttle spring recommended by another Z enthusiast that had triple Weber's. Works Great! I removed the Weber's from the 240Z I had them on after I missed a gear, over revved the motor and bent an Exhaust valve. I pulled the motor and decided to rebuild it. When it was completed we put the original SU's back on because I wanted to sell the car and get another one with less rust. I wanted the Weber's for the next Z I bought. Well, I never got another Z car but instead defected for a Porsche 911. (Also have an original orange 240 Z air box. Please see other post.) $1,150.00 + Shipping
  21. Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
  22. Evans 280z front pully gear 36-1 tooth.dwg I made it out of 1018 steel used a CNC water jet to cut it. I know I was in need of some specs and I finally broke down and made my own and I want to share it with other people who need this. Everyone feel free to use it or modify it. Enjoy!!!
  23. Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
  24. Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  25. Washington state I purchased this Z new in April 1978; original interior in excellent condition, original engine and drive train all working well. All gauges and controls work; paint is decent for being 40 years old, has some mostly coin sized rust spots but none in the wheel wells, foot wells or spare tire area. More info. at the CL listing, see link. 211k miles, price 13000 negotiable. CL listing: seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/1978-datsun-280z-by-original/6668644145.html
  • Member Statistics

    29,259
    Total Members
    939
    Most Online
    Datsun7
    Newest Member
    Datsun7
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.