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About My Cars

Found 155 results

  1. UPDATE 10/8/2017: Decided to make this my "build thread". Summary: I recently bought a 1978 280z with an L28ET swapped into it. The owner did the swap in 2005 and left the car almost completely stock otherwise while driving it 1k-2k miles per year. It is a perfect base car for a fun project! My goal is to make it drive/handle like a modern car and eliminate any weird noises. I don't know much about the Z's or older cars in general, but I have done a lot of suspension work with my Nissan Xterra and several motorcycles. Once I freshen it up and get suspension and looks down, I'll likely start adding to engine power. Key: [x] = Done [-] = In progress [ ] = Want [x] = Removed Exterior: [ ] Fix rust spots! [ ] Add rear spoiler [ ] Add front spoiler [ ] Add some cool decals or get a new paint job Interior: [ ] Fix/cover split seams in top of dash (use this cover?) [ ] Get new shift knob (the old one has the gear indicator thing broken off) [ ] Fix missing dash lighting when lights are on Wheels/Tires/Brakes: [+] 4Runner four-piston front brake calipers with stainless steel brake lines [ ] Disc brakes conversion in the rear with stainless steel brake lines [-] 205/60/R15 Sumimoto Tires [-] 15" wheels - XXR 557 (15x7 4x114.3 +15mm offset) [-] 1" (25mm) wheel spacers to fit wheels (final offset after spacers is -10mm) [x] Stock 14" wheels Suspension/Steering: [-] Stance Coilovers with Camber Plates and 5k/4k spring rates rear/front [-] Adjustable front control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] New tension rods (techno toy tuning) [-] Adjustable rear lower control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] Aluminum steering coupler (techno toy tuning) [-] New tie rod ends [-] New swaybar bushings in the front [ ] Power steering! Engine/Driveline/Exhaust: [-] Rebuild half shafts with new u-joints [ ] Mandrel bent 3" exhaust and downpipe [ ] One of those mufflers with 2 vertical pipes coming out the back (I like the look) [ ] Upgraded turbo + an intercooler + boost controller [ ] Megasquirt II (instead of stock '82 ZX ECU) Other:
  2. Selling many cars and parts. This is just the start. There will be more cars and parts eventually added. So many parts and cars to go through. Some are merely parts cars and some are builders. These are pick up or buyer responsible for shipping. We cannot ship parts or cars to you. If you are looking for certain items you can call or message and we will find out if we have it or not. Very extensive collection of parts being sold. So your patience is appreciated. 1974 260Z $2000 Has 1/74 build date, 4 barrel intake, Holley carb, ceramic coated header, motor, Repairable car, needs work or use as a donor. No seats, some rust, small bumper 260, Orange color. 1972 240Z parts car $500 Has 9/71 build date, parts car or donor car. Rough and has rust. Has some interior. Still has usable parts and metal. Orange color. 1983 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 11/82 build date, mostly complete, w/ motor, 5 speed. Silver color. 1974 260Z $1500 Mostly complete, 4 barrel, 4 speed, w/ motor, has rust, builder or donor car for parts. 1979 280ZX parts car $1000 Has 5 speed, w/ motor, blue and silver color. 1978 280Z automatic $3000 Automatic, complete car, has air dam, rear spoiler, side skirts, headlight covers, better condition, may have minor rust. This car is in building couldn't inspect it completely. This was running when parked years ago and has sat. Black color. 1978 280Z $3000 5 speed, mostly complete, w/ motor, has ZX seats, air dam, fiberglass molded to body fender flares not completely finished, This is also in a shed and couldn't be fully inspected yet. Also ran when parked years ago. Gray primer color. 1974 260Z 2+2 $2000 Comes with another 2+2 parts car. Will post more info on this car later. Forgot to inspect it. 1990 Z32 $1500 has all parts, some removed, new set of headlight buckets, automatic, ran when parked, burgandy color. w/ title 1 Cartech style 4 barrel intake. These bolt to SU intake so you can run a 4 barrel. $125 1 set 1972 240Z bumpers $300 1 set of 1972 240Z front turn signals $150 3 Jim Cook Racing body kits / front fenders/rear quarters and whale tail, NO air dam. $1000 each. There will be more cars and specific parts added to this as we can sort though everything. It will take time to do this. We will try and answer questions as soon as possible. And will check for parts you are looking for. This is a huge collection assembled since the 70's and will require searching for parts. I will edit and update this as cars and parts are added. REMEMBER: We will not be able to ship anything. This is pickup or arrange for shipper to pick up for you ONLY. Also, these cars are not perfect and do have some rust, need repair, or rebuilt or used as donor cars to complete your projects. You can message here or call or text 423-457-2958 423-504-3237
  3. I recently pulled the fuel tank out of my 1975 280Z to have it cleaned and so I could work on reducing the smell of gas in the cabin. I'd love to replace the 17mm (5/8") vent hose that connects from the tank to the vapor reservoir and the 17mm hose that connects the filler to the vapor reservoir, but I can't seem to find these parts. I question whether or not the existing hoses are presenting much of a barrier to gas vapors. Anyway, I was thinking about replacing them with 5/8" fuel hose; however, the hose wants to kink when bent in a fashion similar to the old hoses. Is there still a source for replacement hoses, or a good solution to using the hoses that are readily available from the auto parts stores? I have another fuel system parts question. Has anyone seen a source for obtaining a new grommet in the plate that screws into the body? Once again, this is for a 1975 Z. Thanks!
  4. Complete set of triple Weber 40DCOE carburetors ready to bolt on. Includes velocity stacks, air filters, choke cable and throttle linkage all connected and ready to install on your motor. Also includes a modified throttle spring mounting bracket and a Ferrari throttle spring recommended by another Z enthusiast that had triple Weber's. Works Great! I removed the Weber's from the 240Z I had them on after I missed a gear, over revved the motor and bent an Exhaust valve. I pulled the motor and decided to rebuild it. When it was completed we put the original SU's back on because I wanted to sell the car and get another one with less rust. I wanted the Weber's for the next Z I bought. Well, I never got another Z car but instead defected for a Porsche 911. (Also have an original orange 240 Z air box. Please see other post.) $1,150.00 + Shipping
  5. Zrallysport

    81 280z part out

    Parting out an 81 280z, complete engine, with wiring, turns over by hand, 5 speed(spins smoothly) with flywheel pedals dust cover and driveshaft, complete trim, misc interior parts and pieces. I'll post pictures asap. Feel free to message me with any questions
  6. Hi Everyone I just joined, wanted to say Hi to everyone. Ken
  7. Dude locally is selling front hub assembly off a 1977 280z for $200. He says that rotors, wheel bearings, etc. are in good shape. I need them to cut for my coilover conversion so I don't care about the strut itself. Is $200 a fair price? https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/240280z-parts/6514563435.html I saw them in the bottom left of this pic:
  8. bhorecky

    75 280z complete engine and more

    I have a complete 75 280z L28 with brand new MSA 6-1 header and all new head mounting hardware for the maniflolds. Also intake manifold is partially shaved and polished. Brand new starter with relay mod installed. Car ran good and pulled hard has 86k miles. I am asking 800 for engine and all harness since the header is 320 and i just installed it. I am selling due to finding a good deal on an LS swap. I also have trans that has brand new bushings in the shifter and fuel tank that has recently been cleaned out very well. Also, have a bunch of interior stuff i wont be putting back. Let me know what you need. Located around Akron, OH. Call/ text (330) 317-9501 Brian
  9. mklyons

    Dashboard Repair Guide

    Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark
  10. Blue is now 240260280

    1978 280z Factory Service Manual

    Version

    77 downloads

    1978 280z Factory Service Manual

    Free

  11. Jdizz07

    L28 280Z Car engine problems!!!

    Hi all, I have recently bought a 280Z 1978 in London UK. It was an ex Cali car and from the license plate hadnt been driven since 2007. Ive spent the last couple months trying to get her to run right, however She went from initially running a bit rich/smokey to now not running at all. Ive replaced the fuel pump as the old one was dying on acceleration (Installed a fuel pressure gauge). Ive replaced all normal things, spark plugs, oil, etc. The loom was very corroded so I have replaced the injector plugs with new ones, making sure to keep the right wire numbers/code from the handbook illustration.The AFM has been siliconed shut as in it has been perhaps tinkered with before. However I have diagnostic tested it and all readings read are that of factory. All readings from the ECU are fine. I have a vacuum leak somewhere, as is sometimes runs when all the hoses are off, if i go to reconnect say the breather hose back on to the rocker cover it just dies. Im stumped on that one.Starting to get really frustrated and have even thought of ripping out the F.I and chucking in some old carbs off a 240 or even still, breaking the bank and going with triple webers! Obviously this is not the desired outcome I just want the bloody thing to go!Any help would be great as like everyone here, I want to enjoy her, especially now that summer is here!Thanks JD
  12. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    My 1976 280z won't rev past 3500 when not in gear, and about 2000 when in gear. When in neutral it will blow clouds of black smoke at higher rpm. It has run way to rich like this since I bought it. I have checked the wiring and sensors and rectified the issues I found to no avail. The water temp sensor was the first place I looked, I replaced it when I first got the car. It is giving the correct reading all the way to the ECU and has a noticeable effect when I unplug it. My only guess would be a AFM, I have two but don't know the condition of either. They both passed the ohm tests, could there still be an issue with them? If not what else could be causing such a rich condition, especially at higher rpm.
  13. AlbatrossCafe

    WANTED: 280z 5-speed red shifter knob face

    I am looking for a replacement shifter knob face (pendant?) or whatever it is called. Mine fell off and none of the numbers can be read on it anyway. I can't seem to find a replacement knob or face anywhere on the web. Anyone have one? It should look like this: Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Datsun-280Z-Red-5-Speed-Shift-Knob-Quadrant-Pendant-Insert-only-/302491993969?rmvSB=true&nma=true&si=%2Fs8QomOaONdt1mTkk5bu%2BWKPp5E%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I would consider buying the whole knob if you have that instead and don't want to tear it apart.
  14. AlbatrossCafe

    1" (25mm) wheel wheel spacers (NEW)

    Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  15. KHaydock

    Engine crank no start

    Hello everyone, new to the club. I'm working on a 1978 280z and this thing has been sitting for years. So to start out I drained the fuel tank and put new fuel in, changed engine oil/ filter, installed new spark plugs & wires. All while I was waiting for a new ignition switch to show up. So once I got the ignition switch installed I started to crank it over trying to get a start. It wouldn't start so I took off the air measuring device and tried some starting fluid. It backfired on me. I verified I had spark at my plugs. I ended up going under the car and checking the voltage at the fuel pump while cranking and I had 0 volts going to the pump itself. Can someone help me out with wiring diagram and or description of up stream components to check from the fuel pump? (relays/fuses) and the location on the vehicle. Thank you all for the help and the add.
  16. AlbatrossCafe

    Help removing front valnace

    I am trying to remove front bumper and valance on my 1978 280z to make way for a new air dam. I am stuck removing the valance. I got all of the obvious bolts out, but there are 2 issues: The side fender and valance appear to be "fused" together? The last few bolts have some kind of gunk/material that is nearly hard as rock stuck on them and I can't get to the bolts. I thought the valance was 3 pieces. It looks like where the middle and side piece attach, there is a ton of gunk around the bolt that holds them together. WTF is this stuff? 2nd pic is zoomed in on area of first pic: Secondly, why do the fender and valance appear to be fused together at the seam? I didn't really want to take a screwdriver and hack at it... also, behind the valance in the 2nd pic below is another bolt that has a ton of gunk. No way I can get a socket or wrench around it. Any tips for getting these last few pieces out?
  17. I went to start up my 1976 280z and it didnt fire up, so i checked the spark and it was fine. So i took off the cover of the air flow sensor to check the fuel pump and i heard the relay click but not the fuel pump. So i took the pump out and it works then checked the power to it and had 11.8 or 11.3 volts or something. I plain to re hook up the pump to the connectors to see if it works now, and there was just something in it that i shook lose when i took it out. Is there anything else i should check or another shut off for the pump. -Thank You
  18. Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley
  19. 70 Fairlady Z

    Maryland Z Club

    If you live in Maryland, lookup the club on Classic Z Car Clubs and if interested check us out on the web and join us. http://www.mdzclub.org/joinus.cfm If you join, select "Internet Site" and list ClassicZCars.com in the comments as "How did you hear about us?"
  20. Datsun_Driver

    1977 280z Restoration

    Hi all, I'm new to the forum and I need to soak up some Zed knowledge. I purchased a 280z a few years ago and I'm starting the process of restoration now. It's slow going for me. Also, if I've posted this in the wrong section, please let me know. The car has 69k miles on it and it no modifications. It does have a little rust in a few places, and a cheap respray job over the original light metallic blue paint. Right now my goal is to get it back on the road for under 3k (this does not mean 'restored' condition), and drive it occasionally as a second car while I slowly restore it as I am going back to school. I'm tired of paying the storage fees. lol. Well, at the moment I'm working my way through the electrical system and engine. Engine has compression as follows: cylinders in order from firewall, 115, 120, 90, 120, 120, 45. I also just did plugs and wires, a new fuel pump, and a new fuel filter. I did get it to start briefly on starter fluid. I also confirmed it did turn the fuel pump on when the air flow meter was held open with a screw driver. I'm hoping the low compression might just be stuck valves, but we'll see. Anyone with some knowledge to lend on the process of reviving a Z, I would greatly appreciate the input.
  21. Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.
  22. hello everyone im new here. but ive loved z cars since i played with them as a kid and new id still be playing with them as an adult but i have abit of a problem. My efi system is just a mess. im pretty sure the car might of had some water damage so i decided to switch to carburators. is there a major difference between n33 and n46 intake manifolds? which one fits my 1997 (cali model) 280z better. are there preformance difeerences? also which are better carbs for my car. i just wanna cruise and have awesome acceleratoin. should i go with twin su's or the triple weber setup? also if anyone has any carbs for sale at a reasonanble price please contact me thanks so much!
  23. Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
  24. jbond

    Datsun 280Z for sale

    My restored 280Z is for sale now. See: spies@nwflorida.net https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/datsun-280/6330462965.html
  25. 78zcar_blue

    WTB 75 280Z Fuel Tank

    Looking for a 75 280Z fuel tank that is in fair condition or restored already
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