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Found 140 results

  1. Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color electrical diagram. According to the parts manual Pos 19 is the two (outside) links A and C with a value of 1.25 Pos 18, link B and D have two values, which doesn't make sense, 0.3 and 0.5. That corresponds with one brown 0.3 and the green 0.5. Did nissan get this mixed up? Looks like I should have two blacks for A and C, one green for B and one brown for D. That doesn't match the three reds and a black on the diagram. Could be just color changes over the years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks Eurodat
  2. Version N

    117 downloads

    The 77 280z wiring diagram in color. PDF Support Topic in our forums:

    Free

  3. https://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30 ***** SPECIAL CLASSICZCARS.COM DISCOUNT FOR US MEMBERS! ***** PM me for details on how to get a discount on your order from Silvermine Motors! Hi everyone! I am documenting the installation of the Silvermine Motors EPS system in my 1976 280Z Restomod. My car is currently in the restoration and rebuild phase and I have purchased the system to help improve the steering and response of the 280Z. I will post pictures and document the system as it goes in and gets hooked up to the various components for all to see. My first impressions are very good. The system is compact and looks extremely well made. I mounted the steering column into the firewall using the supplied firewall plate. I had a small alignment issue which located the steering column down and to the right of the mounting tabs on the pedal box assembly. A small amount of pulling on the shaft allowed it to align with the mounting tabs and no further issues were encountered. No negative impact to the firewall or the adapter plate. This may have been due to the variation in positioning between different cars during manufacturing of the firewall etc, or it may have been a bad day for the positioning jig at Silvermine! Not that it really impacted the installation in the end... The other side of the firewall was straight forward. Attach the U-joint adapter to the shaft and to your connecting rod and you're done! The connections were precise and well made with quality looking fittings. The splines were clean and fit perfect. The splined edges of the connecting rod are beveled to allow the connecting bolts to lock the parts together. All that remains at this point is to: - locate the proper place to mount the control box. This will wait till more of the underdash components are in place to allow proper placement. - wire up the controls! Edan's @silverminemotors website has simple instructions for the wiring. I will post more as the restoration progresses and the system gets wired up!
  4. A few months ago I started this thread on this site but had to leave for school and couldn't work on the car. From this point, I have tested a few things and found at least one problem. Previously it was suggested to check the fuel pressure and after the engine dies it is still at 32 psi. Also in the previous post I mentioned the first time the car died like this was on the road after I clutched in, upon looking around the clutch pedal I found this red wire in the ECU loom that was worn away by the pedal. I haven't traced it yet so this could be part of the problem. Just to save a click here is the original problem post from me : I have a 1978 280z that I've recently put back together after rebuilding the engine, rust work, and paint. I've gotten the car to the point that it has run three times for various lengths of time. The second time running, I timed it and got it as close as possible but ran out of adjustment on the distributor. When it ran this time I had it on for around 25 minutes and with the initial break-in done decided to go for a ride. I made it 1/2 a mile down the road before it died grabbing fourth and wouldn't run afterward. After an emergency tow home, it would briefly fire up for maybe one second and then die. The next afternoon I tested to see if I had fuel flowing to the rail (I haven't tested pressure) and there is definitely fuel flowing while cranking. Knowing this, I tried running it again and it fired right up and idled for about a minute until I pushed the clutch in to back out of the garage where it died and would not restart. At this point, I have done lots of troubleshooting to get it to this point and any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock! Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler KVID0467.mp4 KVID0466.mp4 KVID0864.mp4
  6. 240z70

    Quiet Muffler

    I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
  7. I have a 1978 280z that I've recently put back together after rebuilding the engine, rust work, and paint. I've gotten the car to the point that it has run three times for various lengths of time. The second time running, I timed it and got it as close as possible but ran out of adjustment on the distributor. When it ran this time I had it on for around 25 minutes and with the initial break-in done decided to go for a ride. I made it 1/2 a mile down the road before it died grabbing fourth and wouldn't run afterward. After an emergency tow home, it would briefly fire up for maybe one second and then die. The next afternoon I tested to see if I had fuel flowing to the rail (I haven't tested pressure) and there is definitely fuel flowing while cranking. Knowing this, I tried running it again and it fired right up and idled for about a minute until I pushed the clutch in to back out of the garage where it died and would not restart. At this point, I have done lots of troubleshooting to get it to this point and any help would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Version

    82 downloads

    A high resolution wiring diagram for the 280z.

    Free

  9. Greetings, Ive been a Z owner in my own right since 2008 (1992 300ZX N/A) but inherited I inherited a 1971 240Z which needed a lot of work. In 2012 I unfortunately had to sell it to a good friend (ortegadrives on youtube). My father told me when I sold the 240Z that his 1977 280Z was as good as mine. My father has a friend interested in buying my 300ZX, which currently has electrical issues but overall solid car regardless. I purchased a Rebello 3.1 Stroker (actually from Dave Record in 2007 to install in the 240Z, still best purchase of my life). The stock 280Z engine was removed roughly 3 years ago by myself and OrtegaDrives and the engine bay is empty. We have a 5 speed transmission from an 82 280ZX, and a R200 LSD rear end. I have a list of to do items: Remove and clean fuel tank remove rear end/install R200 drop in Rebello w/5 speed transmission new fuel filter/fuel pump New fuel line (possibly) new tires/wheels brake job bushings Other than that, this car hasn't ran since July 1996. Is there anything I may be overlooking that must be checked out? Thanks for any helpful hints or advice! Mike
  10. Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.
  11. Hey everyone, I have been a long time lurker on many forums and I have decided to post some questions because I am at the point where I believe I need guidance on next steps and want to make the right decision. The car I am working on is a 78 280z California Car. It is not my car, it is my parents car that I bought them as a gift 10 years ago. It has been a long time since I have driven the car so I don’t recall its characteristics but it always had a presence of fuel smell in the exhaust. The car was parked because the fuel smell and rough driving started getting worse. The car then sat for a year and a half and now its time to get it back up and running. All the items addressed have been done within the past four months. Disclaimer: There is a lot of information here and if I am unclear on anything please let me know. I am trying to get some conversations going and wanted to put my best foot forward. Symptoms Bogging/hesitation/stuttering under any load to the point where the car can’t be driven, can’t emphasize this enough. Car idles immaculately Backfiring through the AFM Fuel smell through exhaust Current State Timing: 10° BTDC Idle: 800 RPM Aftermarket exhaust header and muffler EGR deleted Air regulator removed Coldstart injector still on rail but disconnected electronically Thermotime switch disconnected electronically Items that have been addressed Spark: New Plugs (NGK at .039in gap) New Wires (NGK) New Coil (MSD Blaster) Rebuilt ZX distributor (RockAuto) Vacuum advance confirmed working New Cap New Rotor Fuel: New fuel injector connectors Injectors reconditioned from Fuel Injection Services (confirmed working) New Walbro 255 fuel pump Tank removed and checked for rust Fuel hard lines cleared with compressed air New fuel filters (pre and post pump) Inline gauge added between filter and rail Air: AFM has been calibrated per atlanticZcar site rebuild guide Bench tested for smooth sweep (open to close) Calibrated spring force with water weights New PCV valve Engine: Valves adjusted to: Intake: .008in Exhaust: .010in TDC mark confirmed correct on main pulley Distributer shaft confirmed 11:25 position Leakdown test performed Compression test performed Electrical: New coolant sensor New coolant sensor connector New TPS wiring connector Contacts cleaned with deoxit ECU Harness tested in car to EFI Bible specifications Results Leak down and compression test performed cold because the vehicle was not running at the time. The AFM sweep was performed using a 9VDC battery and an arduino. I did two sweeps of the door by hand as smooth and slow as possible. The third sweep I intentionally pulsed the door through the sweep motion by hand to see if something else would happen. I did not see any signs of a bad circuit. The FSM provides a table relating resistance to temperature for the air temperature sensor and coolant temperature sensor. I generated a chart using this data in both °C(Blue) and °F(Orange). The trend is not linear so a polynomial trend(Thin Orange) was generated so I could plug in a measured value to determine a temperature. The table also provides acceptable ranges within specific temperatures so I added error bars to show this acceptable range. The test environment(Green and Yellow circle) was what the temperature should be and the measured (pink) value was within the error bar at that condition. I went through the circuit testing per the FSM and found nothing alarming. Observations Advancing the timing beyond the timing marks helps but doesn’t resolve the overall issue. Timing at 10° makes the car impossible to drive. Timing at 25°-30° makes it bearable but only above 30% throttle. Future State I have worked through what I believe to be the cheapest items to inspect and now believe it is time to find a new AFM and ECU set. Everything appears to be correct and by the book. Should I try to find a 78 280z ECU/AFM for a CA car, or should I find one for any 280z car (non CA). I have toyed with going standalone because at this point I am tired of poking around in the dark trying to troubleshoot this car. I need some assistance from people who have experience with the FI systems on these cars and I don't know anyone locally to reach out to. If I am unclear on something, please ask and I will provide.
  12. Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
  13. Evans 280z front pully gear 36-1 tooth.dwg I made it out of 1018 steel used a CNC water jet to cut it. I know I was in need of some specs and I finally broke down and made my own and I want to share it with other people who need this. Everyone feel free to use it or modify it. Enjoy!!!
  14. Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
  15. I have a 1977 280z with running issues. What's wrong is that when I start the car, it cranks over fine and will start fine but after the initial start it will immediately bog down and either die or run on like 3-4 cylinders :sick: It helps tons when I push the AFM in about 25% of the way, but If I let it go on its own the car sputters and bogs down again or dies. With the AFM pushed on full (the top cover is off) I can slowly push the car up to a fairly high rpm, 5000 or so, but I can't seem to do quick revs or the car will backfire even with it in all the way. Here are some of the things I've replaced: -New cap and plug wires (with relatively new plugs; they're NGK, don't worry) -New fuel filter -New seals for the fuel injectors -New fuel regulator -New coil Here are some things I've done: -Cleaned the fuel lines -Set the timing -Tested the fuel pump (It works and puts out about 36 pounds of pressure between the new filter and the rail) -Tried a different ECU and a different AFM (Both came with the car and both give the same results) -I did do a compression test awhile ago and everything was fine, and I should be able to do another compression test tomorrow afternoon -I checked to see if the injectors work by taking them fully out of the car starting it and see them all work correctly -I did check the voltage of the clips going to each of the fuel injectors and those all work fine -I checked the points in the ECU that go to both the AFM and the fuel injectors both also came out fine -I checked the electrics in the AFM itself and everything seems fine (it's also possible to hear the fuel pump working when the AFM is puched in slightly) If anyone has an idea of what might be going on please reply, I feel like by now everything should be working at least sort of correctly. I'm at the point where digging into my pocket and sending it to a mechanics shop or buying a Megasquirt system would be better than wasting anymore time on it. Would maybe replacing the whole AFM do me any good? Could it be a bad sensor sending a bad signal to the ECU? I appreciate anyone's input! ZDrummerGuy is online now Report Post Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
  16. Just wanted to know if anyone uses parts off a nissan 350z, other than the R200 rear end swap, are the disk/calipers easily mountable? or what other vehicles can you use parts off of like Brakes and or struts even...? To put onto a 78 280z with a 305. Thought i would throw out an idea and see what might come back
  17. I just finished reading Taryn Croucher's write up on building her silver 1975 280Z in NZ. It's nice to read through all the details and see where her team ran into trouble and how they overcame the issues. Not a 100% real-world build as they are clearly sponsored and have a pile of experts helping, but still pretty great. Project Z: From The Beginning Project Z: L28s And Heartbreak Project Z: L-series Inspiration Project Z: The Quest For Perfection Project Z: New Revelations Project Z: Light At The End Of The Tunnel Project Z: Return of the G-Nose Old Soul, New Life: A Datsun Reborn Drive Your Dream
  18. I have a 1975 280z. I purchased a new Fuel Pump (Airtex Products - Master Parts). Does any one know where I can get a strainer for this part? The old strainer is a little bit to large for the new one (plus I tore it a little bit trying to get it out anyway) and I can not find the strainer at Autozone or O'Reilly (they both sell the pump but it does not come with a strainer) The part number on the pump is E8312. Otherwise can anyone recommend a different fuel pump at a reasonable price(one that comes with a strainer) for my Z (and where can I get it)
  19. http://www.luckyoldcar.com/2016-fall-classic/ Lots 408 and 510 August 27th, and 28th in Tacoma WA Might go for low dollars considering the condition that they are in.
  20. Finally we made these brackets that DOES NOT require any cutting or modification to fit 240Z bumpers. In Japan, all the cars made between 1969-1978 have early 240Z bumpers. However for US market, Nissan did heavy body modification to clear strict "5 mile-bumper" rule and fitted bog bumpers. These kit give those who wants to have JDM/Euro look to their car an option! Precision cut, bend, and drilled by latest technology using OEM gauge metal. http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/240z-front-bumper-conversion-bracket-kit-for-us-1974-78-datsun-260z-280z http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/280z-rear-bumper-bracket-conversion-kit-for-us-1974-78-datsun-260z-280z-late-s31 These will be available from Motorsport Auto from this week!
  21. Hello! I picked up a 78 280z a month or so ago and I've been working my tail off to get her going. She's now starting up just fine and now I'm working on making her idle steady and accelerate appropriately. So in doing so, I need to know where this line should go. Please see attached. It's circled in red. It's on the driver side of the engine close to the master vac. Any help would be appreciated. Additionally, I circled something in yellow. Any help identifying this part? I don't think it's the EGR valve but I'm not certain. TIA
  22. Hello, my baby is having trouble idling and accelerating. I just recently installed MS2 in her so I could surpass the issues I was having with the electrics. However, the problems I was having before are almost the same as the problems now. A very rough idle and no acceleration in the rpm. I have replaced the coil, distributor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, ECU (to MS2), and the fuel regulator. I hooked the distributor up to my laptop and the board and spun it around with a drill and got rpm on the screen, so I think that works. The coil is working too because cranking it over unhooked give plenty of spark. I did a check on the fuel pressure after the fuel filter and got 37psi with the ignition on (the pump wont shut off when the car is on on, not start.. Maybe some feedback with this too please? I know it needs to be linked to the MSII board) while cranking it over I received 34-35psi so I ruled fuel pressure out... I know the plugs get spark because after the initial cranking the car will run for 30 seconds perfectly (from the CSV) then start to idle rough then die. That is, IF the car starts. Sometimes it just cranks over and doesn't start.. instead what happens is a big sneeze and puff of white smoke pours from the intake, along with some oil from the PCV system. Another thing that isn't up to shape is the tach, which doesn't work anymore... which I think should be hooked up to the negative side of the coil but has decided that it doesn't like the new coil or the new EFI system... I have many issues... Maybe an enthusiast who knows their way around these systems can lend a helpful hand! Thanks!
  23. Specs: 1977 Datsun 280z, 4/77 L28 Engine, everything original / stock Oil change 100 miles ago - 4 qts of 10w30, new oil filter Issue: For a few days now, i'm noticing that the Oil Pressure gauge shows the oil pressure dropping from ~40 psi down to ~5 psi over the course of 15mins of variable speed /rpm driving. Engine is sounding less smooth, running a touch rougher at idle. After reading previous threads, it looks like there's a few things i need to check first: 1) Check oil w/ a mechanical pressure gauge 2a) If mechanical gauge matches readings with stock electrical Oil Pressure gauge, then look at Oil Pressure Relief Valve to see if it's functioning. 2b) If mech gauge doesn't match electrical gauge, replace Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor Questions: 1) How / where do i connect a mechanical gauge to the engine? from same port as the Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor? 2) I'm noticing a lot of people mentioning a Oil Pressure Sending Unit often fails, but I don't see that part in the Service Manual - or haven't found a picture of one. What are they referring to? Isolation: 1) Engine does not cut out when Oil Pressure gauge shows what should be 0 psi Thanks in advance!
  24. Hello all I'm a first time poster here. Picked up my 1976 280z auto last week and began picking up turbo parts. I plan on running a holset hx35. Now I've gathered: P90 head, which is missing a rocker arm. This will get machined and ported/polished. Megasquirt 1 extra. Not sure what sensors I need to pick up that my l28 doesn't already have on it. Also picked up an intercooler and piping. Now I know I need a tps off of a 240sx but have yet to find one. Is there any other options? To complete the list I believe all I'll need is: BOV, wastegate, turbo manifold, supra injectors (what year?), and I'll do the downpipe and 02 sensor bung myself
  25. I have a Fiberglass (recently just sold the urethane one before installing it) Type 1 airdam for my 280z. Of course, it did not come with any hardware. Just looking at it, it seems like I'll need 6 bolts, 6 nuts, and 12 washers. What size bolts did you guys use for hardware? Anyone remember? And I'm assuming I should use stainless?
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