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About My Cars

Found 165 results

  1. A Delory

    ‘78 280z for sale

    1978 280z Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with under 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it just isn’t fair to the car. Well maintained, never failed a smog test. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 240z. This car is a joy to drive. When I’m on the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day! Best conversation starter, ever, but you probably know all about that... Will have a price once tune up and general check up done. - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised— as you can see. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has transferred rust stains to well. Next up: service and repair record, or as much as I can lay my hands on. Let me know if need further photos. Thank you for interest and advice!
  2. Moving next month, so time to let go of some parts that I know will not be applicable with the direction the build is heading. All prices are negotiable. Listed prices do not include shipping. We will discuss once I can provide you an estimate. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for looking! I tried to give two pictures per item (pictures will follow in response). Prices are as follows. ECU x2: $70 each PENDING Rearview Mirror x2 (one in good condition, second needs refurbishing on rear side): $10/5 respectively ONE SOLD (good condition mirror) Datsun Horn Pad (scratches around bezel): $5 Coin Tray (good condition, has expected oxidation): $3 SOLD Antenna Assembly: $15 SOLD Dash Air Vent (finish peeling around adjustment lever): $10 Driver's Side Armrest, Black: $15 PENDING 1977/78 Tachometer: $60 1977/78 Complete Speedometer with sensor: $60 1977/78 Fuel Gauge/Volt Meter x2: $30 each BOTH SOLD Water Temp/Oil Temp x2 (One is '75/76, one is '77/78): $30 each Clock: $20 PENDING Turn Signal Actuator: $40 PENDING Lights/Wiper Actuator x2 (one 75/maybe 76, will confirm, other 77/78): $50 each Air/AC/Heater Control Mechanism: $15 Bosch Fuel Dampner: $50 Center Console Vent/Light Piece (w/ Floor and Fuel Indicators): $20 SOLD Interior Panel, Black, Rear Hatch Tail Light cover: $15 SOLD Wind Shield Wipers x2 (Chrome Pair and Black Pair): $5 per pair Interior Door Handle Chrome Brackets (minor oxidation): $10 for pair Exterior Front Fender Indicator Lights (amber): $15 PENDING Exterior Rear Fender Indicator Lights (red): $15 PENDING 4Spd Shift Knob (black leather green face, with spare face): $15 Emergency brake leather cover, Black: $5 SOLD Wiper motor: $5 SOLD Evap Canister (normal wear and tear): $3 SOLD Rubber Intake hose with connectors (confirming application, possible ZX): $5 Blower Assembly: $40 SOLD Mark Ten B CDI System (unused with all documents and packaging): $40 77/78 Front Door Cards, Black with Silver/Woodgrain (some minor peeling along ends with chrome) : $70 for pair PENDING Updated 9 Jan 10:00pm (EST). Thank you again! -Chris
  3. I have a 1978 280z that I've recently put back together after rebuilding the engine, rust work, and paint. I've gotten the car to the point that it has run three times for various lengths of time. The second time running, I timed it and got it as close as possible but ran out of adjustment on the distributor. When it ran this time I had it on for around 25 minutes and with the initial break-in done decided to go for a ride. I made it 1/2 a mile down the road before it died grabbing fourth and wouldn't run afterward. After an emergency tow home, it would briefly fire up for maybe one second and then die. The next afternoon I tested to see if I had fuel flowing to the rail (I haven't tested pressure) and there is definitely fuel flowing while cranking. Knowing this, I tried running it again and it fired right up and idled for about a minute until I pushed the clutch in to back out of the garage where it died and would not restart. At this point, I have done lots of troubleshooting to get it to this point and any help would be greatly appreciated.
  4. 240z70

    PARTS WANTED

    Looking for these parts: Throttle lever and Knob 240z door springs -(springs only) Functional Volt Gauge Let me know if you have it and if so how much to buy it - shipping included- to San Jose California USA If you need parts, also let me know.. I have some misc. available.
  5. Mike

    280z Wiring Diagram

    Version

    79 downloads

    A high resolution wiring diagram for the 280z.

    Free

  6. Mike mcdade

    resurrecting a 1977 280Z

    Greetings, Ive been a Z owner in my own right since 2008 (1992 300ZX N/A) but inherited I inherited a 1971 240Z which needed a lot of work. In 2012 I unfortunately had to sell it to a good friend (ortegadrives on youtube). My father told me when I sold the 240Z that his 1977 280Z was as good as mine. My father has a friend interested in buying my 300ZX, which currently has electrical issues but overall solid car regardless. I purchased a Rebello 3.1 Stroker (actually from Dave Record in 2007 to install in the 240Z, still best purchase of my life). The stock 280Z engine was removed roughly 3 years ago by myself and OrtegaDrives and the engine bay is empty. We have a 5 speed transmission from an 82 280ZX, and a R200 LSD rear end. I have a list of to do items: Remove and clean fuel tank remove rear end/install R200 drop in Rebello w/5 speed transmission new fuel filter/fuel pump New fuel line (possibly) new tires/wheels brake job bushings Other than that, this car hasn't ran since July 1996. Is there anything I may be overlooking that must be checked out? Thanks for any helpful hints or advice! Mike
  7. Hello all, I'm new to the forum and also to the Z life. I have already looked around quite a few times and this forum was always very helpful. I was always fond of the S30's and earlier this year I finally found a 76' 280Z that I could afford (and that my wife would let me buy). I don't have a lot of mechanics notions, but the idea was also to learn as much as possible from this project, as it has relatively simple mechanics. So I have already started tinkering with it and repairing some stuff to get it on the road. This car has a L28 with twin carburetors, weird, because every time I see something about the 280Z it is injection, but the car does have signs of the engine having been removed or replaced at some point. Many things are disconnected, although the main stuff for the car to run is working. My plan with this car is to get it running reliably to take it out on the road and enjoy it. I'm not necessarily looking to restore it completely just yet or doing it all original. Partly because of time and mostly because my wife won't let me spend a lot of money. So my priority with time is to give it a new suspension and alter on a new paintjob and in between trying to get the little things done step by step. Now I had gotten to a point where the car was actually running pretty smoothly, but 2 months ago I started experiencing some trouble. The engine started hesitating when on the road, and after a lot of trouble shooting and you tube videos and carburetor twitching I am pretty sure my problem is that there must be rust in the tank and the rust is clogging the fuel line and not allowing the fuel to get to the engine. So my next step is going to be to remove the tank and clean it and hope that solves my issue. My problem is that I live at an apartment complex in Midtown Atlanta and, although I can work on the car, I don't have the space or possibilities to do anything major or leaving the car unable to run for a few days. That is why I only trust myself doing some minor repairs, as I don't have much experience yet. So if there is anyone in the area that likes to lend a hand I will be happy to accept it and provide the beer.
  8. kinser86

    78 280z Severe Driving Problems

    Hey everyone, I have been a long time lurker on many forums and I have decided to post some questions because I am at the point where I believe I need guidance on next steps and want to make the right decision. The car I am working on is a 78 280z California Car. It is not my car, it is my parents car that I bought them as a gift 10 years ago. It has been a long time since I have driven the car so I don’t recall its characteristics but it always had a presence of fuel smell in the exhaust. The car was parked because the fuel smell and rough driving started getting worse. The car then sat for a year and a half and now its time to get it back up and running. All the items addressed have been done within the past four months. Disclaimer: There is a lot of information here and if I am unclear on anything please let me know. I am trying to get some conversations going and wanted to put my best foot forward. Symptoms Bogging/hesitation/stuttering under any load to the point where the car can’t be driven, can’t emphasize this enough. Car idles immaculately Backfiring through the AFM Fuel smell through exhaust Current State Timing: 10° BTDC Idle: 800 RPM Aftermarket exhaust header and muffler EGR deleted Air regulator removed Coldstart injector still on rail but disconnected electronically Thermotime switch disconnected electronically Items that have been addressed Spark: New Plugs (NGK at .039in gap) New Wires (NGK) New Coil (MSD Blaster) Rebuilt ZX distributor (RockAuto) Vacuum advance confirmed working New Cap New Rotor Fuel: New fuel injector connectors Injectors reconditioned from Fuel Injection Services (confirmed working) New Walbro 255 fuel pump Tank removed and checked for rust Fuel hard lines cleared with compressed air New fuel filters (pre and post pump) Inline gauge added between filter and rail Air: AFM has been calibrated per atlanticZcar site rebuild guide Bench tested for smooth sweep (open to close) Calibrated spring force with water weights New PCV valve Engine: Valves adjusted to: Intake: .008in Exhaust: .010in TDC mark confirmed correct on main pulley Distributer shaft confirmed 11:25 position Leakdown test performed Compression test performed Electrical: New coolant sensor New coolant sensor connector New TPS wiring connector Contacts cleaned with deoxit ECU Harness tested in car to EFI Bible specifications Results Leak down and compression test performed cold because the vehicle was not running at the time. The AFM sweep was performed using a 9VDC battery and an arduino. I did two sweeps of the door by hand as smooth and slow as possible. The third sweep I intentionally pulsed the door through the sweep motion by hand to see if something else would happen. I did not see any signs of a bad circuit. The FSM provides a table relating resistance to temperature for the air temperature sensor and coolant temperature sensor. I generated a chart using this data in both °C(Blue) and °F(Orange). The trend is not linear so a polynomial trend(Thin Orange) was generated so I could plug in a measured value to determine a temperature. The table also provides acceptable ranges within specific temperatures so I added error bars to show this acceptable range. The test environment(Green and Yellow circle) was what the temperature should be and the measured (pink) value was within the error bar at that condition. I went through the circuit testing per the FSM and found nothing alarming. Observations Advancing the timing beyond the timing marks helps but doesn’t resolve the overall issue. Timing at 10° makes the car impossible to drive. Timing at 25°-30° makes it bearable but only above 30% throttle. Future State I have worked through what I believe to be the cheapest items to inspect and now believe it is time to find a new AFM and ECU set. Everything appears to be correct and by the book. Should I try to find a 78 280z ECU/AFM for a CA car, or should I find one for any 280z car (non CA). I have toyed with going standalone because at this point I am tired of poking around in the dark trying to troubleshoot this car. I need some assistance from people who have experience with the FI systems on these cars and I don't know anyone locally to reach out to. If I am unclear on something, please ask and I will provide.
  9. Complete set of triple Weber 40DCOE carburetors ready to bolt on. Includes velocity stacks, air filters, choke cable and throttle linkage all connected and ready to install on your motor. Also includes a modified throttle spring mounting bracket and a Ferrari throttle spring recommended by another Z enthusiast that had triple Weber's. Works Great! I removed the Weber's from the 240Z I had them on after I missed a gear, over revved the motor and bent an Exhaust valve. I pulled the motor and decided to rebuild it. When it was completed we put the original SU's back on because I wanted to sell the car and get another one with less rust. I wanted the Weber's for the next Z I bought. Well, I never got another Z car but instead defected for a Porsche 911. (Also have an original orange 240 Z air box. Please see other post.) $1,150.00 + Shipping
  10. FairAbrocoma

    280z Starting help

    Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
  11. Evans 280z front pully gear 36-1 tooth.dwg I made it out of 1018 steel used a CNC water jet to cut it. I know I was in need of some specs and I finally broke down and made my own and I want to share it with other people who need this. Everyone feel free to use it or modify it. Enjoy!!!
  12. Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
  13. AlbatrossCafe

    1" (25mm) wheel wheel spacers (NEW)

    Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  14. Washington state I purchased this Z new in April 1978; original interior in excellent condition, original engine and drive train all working well. All gauges and controls work; paint is decent for being 40 years old, has some mostly coin sized rust spots but none in the wheel wells, foot wells or spare tire area. More info. at the CL listing, see link. 211k miles, price 13000 negotiable. CL listing: seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/1978-datsun-280z-by-original/6668644145.html
  15. Hi, I’m rebuilding a 1978 280z. I want to swap it to SU dual carbs. Does anyone know of used carbs and all of the other required stuff? Or where I can find them? I can rebuild the carbs if they are in need. Thanks, Andrew
  16. UPDATE 10/8/2017: Decided to make this my "build thread". Summary: I recently bought a 1978 280z with an L28ET swapped into it. The owner did the swap in 2005 and left the car almost completely stock otherwise while driving it 1k-2k miles per year. It is a perfect base car for a fun project! My goal is to make it drive/handle like a modern car and eliminate any weird noises. I don't know much about the Z's or older cars in general, but I have done a lot of suspension work with my Nissan Xterra and several motorcycles. Once I freshen it up and get suspension and looks down, I'll likely start adding to engine power. Key: [x] = Done [-] = In progress [ ] = Want [x] = Removed Exterior: [ ] Fix rust spots! [ ] Add rear spoiler [ ] Add front spoiler [ ] Add some cool decals or get a new paint job Interior: [ ] Fix/cover split seams in top of dash (use this cover?) [ ] Get new shift knob (the old one has the gear indicator thing broken off) [ ] Fix missing dash lighting when lights are on Wheels/Tires/Brakes: [+] 4Runner four-piston front brake calipers with stainless steel brake lines [ ] Disc brakes conversion in the rear with stainless steel brake lines [-] 205/60/R15 Sumimoto Tires [-] 15" wheels - XXR 557 (15x7 4x114.3 +15mm offset) [-] 1" (25mm) wheel spacers to fit wheels (final offset after spacers is -10mm) [x] Stock 14" wheels Suspension/Steering: [-] Stance Coilovers with Camber Plates and 5k/4k spring rates rear/front [-] Adjustable front control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] New tension rods (techno toy tuning) [-] Adjustable rear lower control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] Aluminum steering coupler (techno toy tuning) [-] New tie rod ends [-] New swaybar bushings in the front [ ] Power steering! Engine/Driveline/Exhaust: [-] Rebuild half shafts with new u-joints [ ] Mandrel bent 3" exhaust and downpipe [ ] One of those mufflers with 2 vertical pipes coming out the back (I like the look) [ ] Upgraded turbo + an intercooler + boost controller [ ] Megasquirt II (instead of stock '82 ZX ECU) Other:
  17. I have a Fiberglass (recently just sold the urethane one before installing it) Type 1 airdam for my 280z. Of course, it did not come with any hardware. Just looking at it, it seems like I'll need 6 bolts, 6 nuts, and 12 washers. What size bolts did you guys use for hardware? Anyone remember? And I'm assuming I should use stainless?
  18. AlbatrossCafe

    WANTED: 280z 5-speed red shifter knob face

    I am looking for a replacement shifter knob face (pendant?) or whatever it is called. Mine fell off and none of the numbers can be read on it anyway. I can't seem to find a replacement knob or face anywhere on the web. Anyone have one? It should look like this: Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Datsun-280Z-Red-5-Speed-Shift-Knob-Quadrant-Pendant-Insert-only-/302491993969?rmvSB=true&nma=true&si=%2Fs8QomOaONdt1mTkk5bu%2BWKPp5E%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I would consider buying the whole knob if you have that instead and don't want to tear it apart.
  19. mklyons

    Dashboard Repair Guide

    Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark
  20. Hi Everyone I just joined, wanted to say Hi to everyone. Ken
  21. darrylschumacher

    1976 280Z JUST COMPLETED FALL 2015

    From the album: DARRYL SCHUMACHER

    TWO YEARS IN REBUILDING MY 1976 280Z. NEW ENGINE, UP GRADED TO 5 SPEED, ALL NEW MECHANICS, WIRING AND INTERIOR
  22. Hello! I picked up a 78 280z a month or so ago and I've been working my tail off to get her going. She's now starting up just fine and now I'm working on making her idle steady and accelerate appropriately. So in doing so, I need to know where this line should go. Please see attached. It's circled in red. It's on the driver side of the engine close to the master vac. Any help would be appreciated. Additionally, I circled something in yellow. Any help identifying this part? I don't think it's the EGR valve but I'm not certain. TIA
  23. I have a 1976 280Z non calif, with a 5spd (one of the previous owners must have installed the trans as 1976 did not come with 5spd). I noticed the wires on my vacuum switching valve were completely toast and I cant find a replacement part anywhere. To my knowledge the vacuum switching valve adjusts timing for 4th gear. Yet since I have a 5spd, is this switch even necessary? Does the trans have a top gear switch that tells the vacuum switch to engage past 4th? I took it apart and can attempt to clean and resolder the connection if its still needed. The car has only idled in the driveway since I bought it in the fall so I have no idea how it behaves while running through the gears. Thanks
  24. meng86

    front bumper ( air dam )

    I'm new to 280z car. I love z car. I had 1978 280z strip down. Now i need to order a front bumper (air dam) for my 280z. I like to get the one with the front bumper (air dam) with the chrome across. I found one on the z store but i think it look different. Z owner please tell me where to order I will be very appreciate. Thank you
  25. Just wanted to know if anyone uses parts off a nissan 350z, other than the R200 rear end swap, are the disk/calipers easily mountable? or what other vehicles can you use parts off of like Brakes and or struts even...? To put onto a 78 280z with a 305. Thought i would throw out an idea and see what might come back
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