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Found 195 results

  1. Alrighty, Ive got a stock 1978 280z and I'm currently installing an MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coil into the car. After reading any and all forum posts on the topic I came to the conclusion that I would need an MSD Tach Adapter 8920 in order for the MSD box to Communicate to the EFI by upping it to 12v. All my wires are in place and I'm getting a good strong spark. I put a voltmeter on the purple wire coming out of the MSD tach adapter and I'm getting 12v. Only problem is that I'm getting no fuel. It must not be communicating with the EFI somehow. Here's my Setup. MSD 6A: Heavy Red goes to battery + Heavy Black is going to battery - Red is going to Black wire with white strip (Ignition Key Wire) Orange is connected to blaster 2 coil + Black is connected to blaster 2 coil - White is not being used, I do not have a points system Violet and Green are connected to the Magnetic Pickups (I was told it didn't matter which way, I put green to green and violet to red) MSD Tach Adapter 8920: White goes to Tach Output on MSD 6a box Black is ground wire Red is connected to Black wire with white stripe (so two reds and black with white stripe all connected) Violet is connected to the blueish green wire that was connected to the coil negative terminal. Summary: I don't know what the **** I did wrong. Someone please tell me.
  2. View Advert 1978 Datsun 280 Z 1978 Datsun 280 Z - Original owner Vin HLS 30463465 Automatic transmission 127900 original miles Original rims and hubcaps School bus yellow with black pinstripe-Custom repainted Body condition: Excellent-no dents or scratches New alternator Stored in garage for 42 years Rear window lover cover Driver's seat slightly worn $11,500 Advertiser Casper Date 02/08/2020 Price $11,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280 Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS 30463465  
  3. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    1978 Datsun 280 Z - Original owner Vin HLS 30463465 Automatic transmission 127900 original miles Original rims and hubcaps School bus yellow with black pinstripe-Custom repainted Body condition: Excellent-no dents or scratches New alternator Stored in garage for 42 years Rear window lover cover Driver's seat slightly worn $11,500

    $11,500.00

    , California - US

  4. Hey Team I have spent a lot of time on this forum and i want to say thank you all so much this is an incredible community. I have hit a brick wall and looking for a little help. Background story; I'm helping a friend of mine fix his 280z with 30,000 miles on it all original. Car has been garage kept all its life. Really really well taken care of. Apparently some one A-hole mechanic tried before me and failed miserably and i don't know what he/she messed up or touched. After them the car didn't even start. Fixed that issue. (FACE PALM) 🤦‍♂️ When you try to start the car it tries to start but never does on its own. If you give it gas than the car starts but it is runs rough(motor shaking). Have to keep the gas paddle pressed in just a little to keep it running. Car smokes white/bluish smoke from the tail pipes. (running rich) ( Gas smell). Changed the oil after the previous Mech worked on it smelled like gas was in it. Did a double flush much better now. Things i did and tested on the entire car: Spark Plugs - New Spark Plugs Wires - New Battery - New Battery Terminals - Cleaned Distributor cap - Cleaned and polished Dizzy - Cleaned and polished Pick Up - Adjusted to correct distance from roller according to 0.08in or 0.2mm Distributor Vacuum - Good Ignition Coil - NEW (built in resisters original ceremic resistor was missing) (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/super_stock/parts/8140C) Fuel Pressure - 22-25psi in when engine is off, while the car is running at low rpm 30psi+ ( 700 to 1k) Smoke test - No leaks AFM - Refurbished still sealed was installed last month AFT Idel screw - Did not mess with Throttle Body Screw - NO EFFECT when turning clock or counter clock Electrical - 12V all over from Body, Engine, - All good Ground Connectors - Clean Coolant Temp Sensor - Ordered Arriving tomorrow (CANT IMAGINE ITS THE REASON) Timing - Seems good 10 degrees of from original zero marking Cylinders Compression Test - 125 + on all Cylinders Injectors connections - look good Injectors - listen to them with stethoscope sound health strong tick HELP!!!? Thank you again for reading. I will be testing tomorrow.
  5. I just got a thottle cable to replace my throttle linkage. It's a 24 inch. Was wondering if yall could drop some pics of the throttle cable replacements yall have done. Need ideas of routing and connections. Please and thank you for the help.
  6. Hello all. I have been browsing Z site for the last 2 month and this sight has been the most hopeful. I figured it was time to become a member. My Z is at a stage between I love it and I want to set it on fire. Time and money but trying to have it back to road worthy again by spring 2020... fingers crossed. A giant thank you to all of yalls post that has help me in the last few months.
  7. I have finally narrowed down a shake in my steering wheel and bounce in my car to the 41 year old aluminum wheels. These issues, along with having to run a spacer for one of my Toyota 4x4 Calipers has led me to look for new wheels for the Z. I'm looking at the Konig Rewinds and Rota RB's but don't know what size and offset I should get to fit the car as best as possible. If anyone has upgraded to these wheels or has advise in general, I would love the feedback.
  8. View Advert 1977 280z 2nd Owner, Mostly Original For sale is my 1977 280z in metallic blue. Just over 65,000 on the odometer. 2nd owner. Mostly original except wheels, radio, & exhaust. Manual transmission, 4 speed, factory A/C (needs to be charged). Runs and drives great. Please contact me for additional info and pictures. Advertiser Chuck Chouteau Date 10/04/2019 Price $13,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1976 Model 280Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
  9. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    For sale is my 1977 280z in metallic blue. Just over 65,000 on the odometer. 2nd owner. Mostly original except wheels, radio, & exhaust. Manual transmission, 4 speed, factory A/C (needs to be charged). Runs and drives great. Please contact me for additional info and pictures.

    $13,500.00

    Liberty Twp, Ohio - US

  10. Wondering if any of the historians out there can tell me when the 2-piece oil pan stiffeners started (and were discontinued?) being installed on S30 engine types (240/260/280). Thanks.
  11. Greetings, Ive been a Z owner in my own right since 2008 (1992 300ZX N/A) but inherited I inherited a 1971 240Z which needed a lot of work. In 2012 I unfortunately had to sell it to a good friend (ortegadrives on youtube). My father told me when I sold the 240Z that his 1977 280Z was as good as mine. My father has a friend interested in buying my 300ZX, which currently has electrical issues but overall solid car regardless. I purchased a Rebello 3.1 Stroker (actually from Dave Record in 2007 to install in the 240Z, still best purchase of my life). The stock 280Z engine was removed roughly 3 years ago by myself and OrtegaDrives and the engine bay is empty. We have a 5 speed transmission from an 82 280ZX, and a R200 LSD rear end. I have a list of to do items: Remove and clean fuel tank remove rear end/install R200 drop in Rebello w/5 speed transmission new fuel filter/fuel pump New fuel line (possibly) new tires/wheels brake job bushings Other than that, this car hasn't ran since July 1996. Is there anything I may be overlooking that must be checked out? Thanks for any helpful hints or advice! Mike
  12. Hello all, Before I go out and buy a timing gun, I was hoping to hear your thoughts on this short video clip. Finally got my 76 280z running and idling after finding a vacuum leak at the booster, but the idle is still really low, and I believe I hear it missing/bogging when accelerating 🤔 idle adjustment screw seems to do nothing in either direction. New plugs, new plug wires, new water temp sensor, new battery, cleaned the injector plug connections, but that's about it. Thank you, Oscar VID_20190802_074213.mp4
  13. 240z70

    Quiet Muffler

    I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
  14. So the electrical saga continues with my z... I have a 1978 280z and it recently developed a tendency to turn itself off when I'm driving. It started with it just turning off when shifting into reverse but has evolved into turning off with the right blinker once (I could hear the a relay in the passenger foot well clicking on and off with the blinker) and also just randomly while driving. Today it died in my neighborhood before i could leave and wouldn't turn back on until I jiggled the main wiring harness around. Because of all of this I suspect two wires shorted together since the turn signals and reverse are on the same circuit and removing the fuse for them fixes the problem but if someone could help me track down where in the harness i should be looking and what wire to the main ignition relay or other relay that would kill the car might cause this.
  15. Hey guys I’m new to this website but I have read a ton of stuff on here and it’s been a great help so that’s why I’ve joined. Anyways my 78 280z has been running fine for a while, I have all new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and afm. My fuel pump relay was bad so I wired up a switch to the wires where the fuel pump relay normally connects to and it’s worked fine. Recently however it has been idling horribly at around 500 rpm, but when I flip the fuel pump switch to off it jumps right back up to 1000rpm and idles fine until it dies from fuel starvation. It will also occasionally die out in addition to not accelerating sometimes. I’ll be driving and suddenly the power will not exactly cut out but not change if that makes sense. It’ll hold steady but stop reving and accelerating. It also blows darkish white smoke out of the exhaust when I rev it. I know it’s a lot of info but I can’t figure this out if anyone has had a similar problem or a solution please let me know!
  16. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, front suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 65$ + shipping /set of 2.

    $65.00

    Montreal , Quebec - CA

  17. View Advert S30 front suspension mounting brackets S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, front suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 65$ + shipping /set of 2. Advertiser ZCarFever Date 07/03/2019 Price $65.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  18. This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug and Have tested for voltage when the ignition is in "Start" and not just "On". Some troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated since I have already tried to look through the FSM and wiring diagram.
  19. Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color electrical diagram. According to the parts manual Pos 19 is the two (outside) links A and C with a value of 1.25 Pos 18, link B and D have two values, which doesn't make sense, 0.3 and 0.5. That corresponds with one brown 0.3 and the green 0.5. Did nissan get this mixed up? Looks like I should have two blacks for A and C, one green for B and one brown for D. That doesn't match the three reds and a black on the diagram. Could be just color changes over the years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks Eurodat
  20. Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any help you can give me. My 1976 280z was running fine last time I drove it, but after sitting in the CA sun for 2 years, I'm struggling to get it back on the road. After draining out the old gas, I have a new battery, new spark plugs, and a couple gallons of new gas in. When I go to start it, all I get is cranking, and no turn over, and I have yet to hear the fuel pump cone on. I've tried moving the new battery to the rear and getting 12v to the fuel pump directly, but this doesn't get the fuel pump going either, just a click. I also don't seem to be getting power to the fuel pump when cranking. Any ideas on what might be going on, or existing threads on this that I can go off of would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Oscar **Also zero fuel pressure when cranking** *Reading taken under the hood, after the fuel filter*
  21. Hey guys I’m new to this website but I have read a ton of stuff on here and it’s been a great help so that’s why I’ve joined. Anyways my 78 280z has been running fine for a while, I have all new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and afm. My fuel pump relay was bad so I wired up a switch to the wires where the fuel pump relay normally connects to and it’s worked fine. Recently however it has been idling horribly at around 500 rpm, but when I flip the fuel pump switch to off it jumps right back up to 1000rpm and idles fine until it dies from fuel starvation. It will also occasionally die out in addition to not accelerating sometimes. I’ll be driving and suddenly the power will not exactly cut out but not change if that makes sense. It’ll hold steady but stop reving and accelerating. It also blows darkish white smoke out of the exhaust when I rev it. I know it’s a lot of info but I can’t figure this out if anyone has had a similar problem or a solution please let me know!
  22. Finally we made these brackets that DOES NOT require any cutting or modification to fit 240Z bumpers. In Japan, all the cars made between 1969-1978 have early 240Z bumpers. However for US market, Nissan did heavy body modification to clear strict "5 mile-bumper" rule and fitted bog bumpers. These kit give those who wants to have JDM/Euro look to their car an option! Precision cut, bend, and drilled by latest technology using OEM gauge metal. http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/240z-front-bumper-conversion-bracket-kit-for-us-1974-78-datsun-260z-280z http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/280z-rear-bumper-bracket-conversion-kit-for-us-1974-78-datsun-260z-280z-late-s31 These will be available from Motorsport Auto from this week!
  23. I've been working on getting the electrical side of my '78 280z back to working and have run into a few issues. First off, my low beams do not work and I have confirmed its a grounding issue somewhere between the headlight plug and the switch by grounding it manually which makes them work. This also makes the high and low beams run at the same time which is not good. Second, while I was installing an upgraded wiper motor to replace my broken original one I had the motor working for a few minutes before lengthening the wires for permanent install then it stopped working completely even rewired multiple times. Third, My Blinkers do not work because I don't get power to the turn signal stock. When in the middle position it has 12v but in the two turn positions it has 0v. I have taken apart, cleaned, and made sure my combo switch works so I don't believe that works. I have also looked at the FSM but I am not sure where to go from here.
  24. 1978 280z Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with under 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it just isn’t fair to the car. Well maintained, never failed a smog test. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 240z. This car is a joy to drive. When I’m on the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day! Best conversation starter, ever, but you probably know all about that... Will have a price once tune up and general check up done. - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised— as you can see. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has transferred rust stains to well. Next up: service and repair record, or as much as I can lay my hands on. Let me know if need further photos. Thank you for interest and advice!