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Found 207 results

  1. Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gear ratios) -Planning on getting the MSD Ignition Soon I got the car running (extremely loud as its open headers atm) didn't have to adjust the Weber's really besides to get the idle down, drove the car and definitely have to ease into the gas, straight full throttle the car stumps for a second, could just be the car wasn't fully warmed up. My questions is if the Jets TopEndPerformance provided with the Weber's are perfect for my setup and what some of you guys think should be changed? I am very new to the Weber game and plan on learning how to tune these things properly in the future but for now I definitely would like some guidance before I get tuned. I will list below the Jets provided with these Webers Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 115 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 40 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75 I will keep this post updated as I get my webers tuned and change out the jets
  2. I am in the process of developing a game right now, and i want to use the S-chassis as the main vehicle, the problem is i need either very precise and detailed measurements to make a 3d model, or i need a CAD model, would anyone know where i could get such things, for free that is, i would spend money on this, but as this is purely a passion project im not ready to spend 100 bucks on a model that is not accurate. If anyone is wondering i plan to fill the game with tons of different parts,(engine swaps and individual pieces, suspension parts, body parts, some interior bits.) When finished i will post the download link on this thread for anyone that wishes to try it out. Game is not currently licensed so things will be named differently to avoid any legal problems.
  3. Hey all, I did the transistor ignition unit upgrade as described here: Given this though, I have had some problems after doing it. Given that I have a '78 I don't seem to have a resistor below the ignition coil but I think I wired the HEI module in correctly. I think it is correct since it ran for over 6 months, and the last 7 weeks of that was the car being driven daily. On the 7th week though, problems began. The car became slowly harder to start taking longer and longer to crank until it eventually stopped firing all together. I have checked and the car has fuel and air, just no spark. Seeing this, I replaced the HEI. After replacing the HEI the car stumbled as if it would fire and then resumed cranking with no spark. So, have I installed the HEI correctly for a '78 280z? If so, what else could be killing HEI modules when I replace them? I have attached pictures of my module installed:
  4. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I'm a former owner of two S30 Z cars, looking for another. From PA, but willing to travel for the "right" vehicle. I've been a Z owner since 2004, and sold my '72 240Z in 2015 to help with bills. Now that I am back on my feet, I am looking to return to the Z car once again. Middle-aged enthusiast as well as former mechanic.

    $15,000.00

    Factoryville, Pennsylvania - US

  5. View Advert Wanted: 240Z I'm a former owner of two S30 Z cars, looking for another. From PA, but willing to travel for the "right" vehicle. I've been a Z owner since 2004, and sold my '72 240Z in 2015 to help with bills. Now that I am back on my feet, I am looking to return to the Z car once again. Middle-aged enthusiast as well as former mechanic. Advertiser Magus80Mods Date 11/06/2020 Price $15,000.00 Category Cars Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z  
  6. Hello and thank you taking a look at my issue. I've just finished turbocharging my NA 1978 and have been running into many issues. Firstly, the car will crank for days but never starts, I've narrowed it down now to spark. I have disconnected the transistor ignition unit as it has an e12-80 module and distributor from a 1980 zx, with a new cap, rotor, and aftermarket ignition coil. Verified rotor is spinning. On the ignition module I have C going to Negative post on coil and B going to Positive. I have the Blue/Black wire & Blue wire connected to Negative on the coil, and Black/White connected to Positive. (There's a skinny white/black wire that I have no clue what to do with, can't find anything on it). I also have a wire connected to a post the distributor going to chassis ground (that wire got a little warm while trying to start the car, strange, disconnected and still no start.) The coil is getting 12~VDC at both posts with key at ON, and 0.00 with key at OFF. Any leads would be greatly appreciated, just want to drive this thing again 😔
  7. Hello all, I'm struggling with a recently acquired, stock 78 280Z running very rich. As in 13-15 mpg combined, and all plugs are getting carbon fouled to the point one or more start misfiring completely. I changed the previous owners BPR6ES with fresh BPR5ES plugs, but after around 1000 miles I could again hear the 5 cylinder "brrt-brrt-brrt" and soon after the 4 cylinder "cho-cho-cho" ? I've been troubleshooting using my multimeter and the 1980 EFI bible, it's all well within specs except for the test 1- (3b) - Air flow meter resistance #2 (ECU pins #7 and #8). It gave a reading of 360 ohms, well above the 150 suggested by the bible. I pulled the AFM to test it more thoroughly according to the FSM, which gives the following instructions: 4.: 12v DC to terminal #6 and #9 5. Test voltage between terminals #7 and #8 6. Gradually open the flap and if there is a proportional decrease in voltage, the potentiometer checks out. And it did check out, the transition was really smooth. But I have no idea if the start and final voltages were within spec, as they arent mentioned in any of the manuals. With closed flap the differential was 8 volts. +8 at #7 and 0 at #8. At full open it was +8 and +8 for a 0 volt difference. Still not convinced everything was as it should I tested the resistance again. And this time it was 180 ohm, almost within spec. Weird. So I gradually opened the flap fully, and the resistance jumped erratically back and forth between 200-500 ohms. Then I closed the flap and made a new measurement: 260 ohm. Repeat: 230 ohm. Also confident the fault is not in my multimeter, it's brand new and doesn't hesitate measuring the correct resistance of anything else. So naturally I'm wondering - is my AFM actually working as intended? Or is it broken, but perhaps fixable? And if broken, is this the likely source of running rich? I haven't yet opened the AFM to fiddle about inside, but it certainly looks as if someone else has in the past.
  8. Tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle
  9. So i just recently got my 280z to start and idle for about 5 seconds and then it dies while idling it runs rough any gas makes it die, fuel pressure tested at 38 psi and bleed down was slow and stayed at 20 psi. have good spark new plugs,wires, and distributor. Coil primary resistance is 1,6 ohms which is more than the recommended 0.6 ohms so i dont know if thats a issue. Cleaned all connections best i could and ran i new wire for the pin 1 on the ecu to the negative side of the coil along with swap ecus and drop resistor packs, i havent been able to verify timing yet waiting on a extra set of hands. just wanted to see if anyones had the problem before and knows some tricks. Also the car has sit for about a year prior to this first start ups, has fresh gas and new fuel pump and filter. I attached some videos of what it does Snapchat-1512447466.mp4 Snapchat-776157692.mp4
  10. Anyone have any idea what this body kit is? I've asked around some known suppliers, and none so far have any idea what this is? https://www.pinterest.com/pin/257971884883106901/ Got a 280z, and trying to find a body kit I like... ? Thanks in advance...
  11. Dear all I am new within this group and I like to offer you a large amount of parts for a 280Z. The interior parts belonged to a dark red car. the parts are all used and mostly not yet cleaned. Please feel free to contact me either for all or just some parts. See attached pictures for more information --> some parts could be sold already - therefore - please ask - Thank you Cheers Roland
  12. View Advert 280Z parts - used - in Switzerland Hello all I have a large amount of parts for a 280z --> see pictures. Should you have any interest - please feel free to contact me. Price is depending on part as well on quantity, ... --> please ask Shipment could be organized if prepayment is accepted. Personally I am looking for 240z parts - specially a back panel Cheers Roland Advertiser Roland468 Date 05/20/2020 Price $280.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  13. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Hello all I have a large amount of parts for a 280z --> see pictures. Should you have any interest - please feel free to contact me. Price is depending on part as well on quantity, ... --> please ask Shipment could be organized if prepayment is accepted. Personally I am looking for 240z parts - specially a back panel Cheers Roland

    $280.00

    Buonas, Zug - CH

  14. View Advert 1977 280z 2nd Owner, Mostly Original For sale is my 1977 280z in metallic blue. Just over 65,000 on the odometer. 2nd owner. Mostly original except wheels, radio, & exhaust. Manual transmission, 4 speed, factory A/C (needs to be charged). Runs and drives great. Please contact me for additional info and pictures. Advertiser Chuck Chouteau Date 10/04/2019 Price $13,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1976 Model 280Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
  15. Version 1.0.0

    19 downloads

    A number of people refer to this document for repairing the 280Z clock. The thread where it was originally posted is no longer available so I'm posting it here in the tech articles. This is where is should be. No credit on my part. That goes to E. Bettio for writing the article and Monkey Man for posting it

    Free

  16. Alrighty, Ive got a stock 1978 280z and I'm currently installing an MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coil into the car. After reading any and all forum posts on the topic I came to the conclusion that I would need an MSD Tach Adapter 8920 in order for the MSD box to Communicate to the EFI by upping it to 12v. All my wires are in place and I'm getting a good strong spark. I put a voltmeter on the purple wire coming out of the MSD tach adapter and I'm getting 12v. Only problem is that I'm getting no fuel. It must not be communicating with the EFI somehow. Here's my Setup. MSD 6A: Heavy Red goes to battery + Heavy Black is going to battery - Red is going to Black wire with white strip (Ignition Key Wire) Orange is connected to blaster 2 coil + Black is connected to blaster 2 coil - White is not being used, I do not have a points system Violet and Green are connected to the Magnetic Pickups (I was told it didn't matter which way, I put green to green and violet to red) MSD Tach Adapter 8920: White goes to Tach Output on MSD 6a box Black is ground wire Red is connected to Black wire with white stripe (so two reds and black with white stripe all connected) Violet is connected to the blueish green wire that was connected to the coil negative terminal. Summary: I don't know what the **** I did wrong. Someone please tell me.
  17. View Advert 1978 Datsun 280 Z 1978 Datsun 280 Z - Original owner Vin HLS 30463465 Automatic transmission 127900 original miles Original rims and hubcaps School bus yellow with black pinstripe-Custom repainted Body condition: Excellent-no dents or scratches New alternator Stored in garage for 42 years Rear window lover cover Driver's seat slightly worn $11,500 Advertiser Casper Date 02/08/2020 Price $11,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280 Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS 30463465  
  18. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    1978 Datsun 280 Z - Original owner Vin HLS 30463465 Automatic transmission 127900 original miles Original rims and hubcaps School bus yellow with black pinstripe-Custom repainted Body condition: Excellent-no dents or scratches New alternator Stored in garage for 42 years Rear window lover cover Driver's seat slightly worn $11,500

    $11,500.00

    , California - US

  19. Hey Team I have spent a lot of time on this forum and i want to say thank you all so much this is an incredible community. I have hit a brick wall and looking for a little help. Background story; I'm helping a friend of mine fix his 280z with 30,000 miles on it all original. Car has been garage kept all its life. Really really well taken care of. Apparently some one A-hole mechanic tried before me and failed miserably and i don't know what he/she messed up or touched. After them the car didn't even start. Fixed that issue. (FACE PALM) ?‍♂️ When you try to start the car it tries to start but never does on its own. If you give it gas than the car starts but it is runs rough(motor shaking). Have to keep the gas paddle pressed in just a little to keep it running. Car smokes white/bluish smoke from the tail pipes. (running rich) ( Gas smell). Changed the oil after the previous Mech worked on it smelled like gas was in it. Did a double flush much better now. Things i did and tested on the entire car: Spark Plugs - New Spark Plugs Wires - New Battery - New Battery Terminals - Cleaned Distributor cap - Cleaned and polished Dizzy - Cleaned and polished Pick Up - Adjusted to correct distance from roller according to 0.08in or 0.2mm Distributor Vacuum - Good Ignition Coil - NEW (built in resisters original ceremic resistor was missing) (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/super_stock/parts/8140C) Fuel Pressure - 22-25psi in when engine is off, while the car is running at low rpm 30psi+ ( 700 to 1k) Smoke test - No leaks AFM - Refurbished still sealed was installed last month AFT Idel screw - Did not mess with Throttle Body Screw - NO EFFECT when turning clock or counter clock Electrical - 12V all over from Body, Engine, - All good Ground Connectors - Clean Coolant Temp Sensor - Ordered Arriving tomorrow (CANT IMAGINE ITS THE REASON) Timing - Seems good 10 degrees of from original zero marking Cylinders Compression Test - 125 + on all Cylinders Injectors connections - look good Injectors - listen to them with stethoscope sound health strong tick HELP!!!? Thank you again for reading. I will be testing tomorrow.
  20. I just got a thottle cable to replace my throttle linkage. It's a 24 inch. Was wondering if yall could drop some pics of the throttle cable replacements yall have done. Need ideas of routing and connections. Please and thank you for the help.
  21. Hello all. I have been browsing Z site for the last 2 month and this sight has been the most hopeful. I figured it was time to become a member. My Z is at a stage between I love it and I want to set it on fire. Time and money but trying to have it back to road worthy again by spring 2020... fingers crossed. A giant thank you to all of yalls post that has help me in the last few months.
  22. I have finally narrowed down a shake in my steering wheel and bounce in my car to the 41 year old aluminum wheels. These issues, along with having to run a spacer for one of my Toyota 4x4 Calipers has led me to look for new wheels for the Z. I'm looking at the Konig Rewinds and Rota RB's but don't know what size and offset I should get to fit the car as best as possible. If anyone has upgraded to these wheels or has advise in general, I would love the feedback.
  23. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    For sale is my 1977 280z in metallic blue. Just over 65,000 on the odometer. 2nd owner. Mostly original except wheels, radio, & exhaust. Manual transmission, 4 speed, factory A/C (needs to be charged). Runs and drives great. Please contact me for additional info and pictures.

    $13,500.00

    Liberty Twp, Ohio - US

  24. Wondering if any of the historians out there can tell me when the 2-piece oil pan stiffeners started (and were discontinued?) being installed on S30 engine types (240/260/280). Thanks.
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