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Found 9 results

  1. I've had my '73 240z for a couple of years and its always run pretty decent, but it overheats in city driving. Last fall I was driving and hit some rush hour and it got pretty hot (about 3/4 of the gauge). After a while I got out of traffic and it started to cool down some, but about a mile from my house it started running really rough and 1/4 mile from my house it died completely. I coasted downhill to my house and pushed it into the garage. It wouldn't start, but I was so tired of the overheating I took the radiator out and got it rodded out. I also installed a fan shroud. After I got
  2. Hi everyone! So over the past year and a half I have torn my 1974 260z with an L28 and flat top carbs down to it's rusty britches and done my best to get her nice and shiny. This is my first project car, so I probably have no idea what i'm talking about. However, I have not been able to get the car to start and I am pretty stumped, even though the car ran when I bought it. FYI, I did disassemble the engine, clean it up, refresh it with new timing stuffs etc, and put it back together citing the FSM almost religiously. I also have been wiring the car myself using the speedway 22 circuit har
  3. Good evening guys, So I'm back for more help. It's almost time to drive my 240z for the first time, but the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. You might remember me. I'm the guy who bought the 72 with a seized engine(that I got unstuck). I'm here because the engine has a really hard time running when engine cold. It's about 60 degrees in Chicago now . So it will start and revs to about 2500 for 2 seconds and shut off, try again and again the same thing. Over and over and over again for about 5 minutes. I'm messing with the throttle the whole time. After a few minutes of that ,
  4. For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spar
  5. Found this today. Thought I'd share.
  6. Hey guys, i have a 75 280z, and it's taken me about 2 months of spinning my wheels to finally get on here and ask about this problem. I've looked at everything i can think of in the car. my fuel pump will not pump gas into the engine, it's not getting any power. i've checked the connections, and gone through as much of the harness as i can get to at the moment. and i haven't been able to find any problems, i replaced the pump to no avail. (i tested the old one and it definitely was faulty anyway) but i was wondering what else i should check to find the problem. this car has been my dream c
  7. Hello everyone, I have a 78 280z 2+2 with a 4 speed. I recently had issues with the engine that made it run rich enough to gas up the oil and it wouldn't run without flooring it basically. I had the AFM adjusted leaner, the cold start disconnected, and had it running well and one day it did this. so we swapped the engine out of my dad's 80 280zx because he wants a SBC in his. I had to move my temp sensor to the thermostat like on the old engine, use my distributor and replace the temp gauge sending unit, along with a few other swaps to configure the cooling and the vacuum to work right. Th
  8. i just got through a complete rebuild. i tried the first startup, and at first, it seemed like the car wasn't reacting to the key turning, other than the lights coming on. then i could hear a small clunking noise every time i turned the key, coming from under the dash near the fuse box. we ran a wire directly from the battery to the starter, and it turns over like mad, but won't start up. any ideas? update: there is definitely fuel coming up at least as high as the fuel lines over the manifolds.
  9. :disappoin I was warned and worried about fouled/contaminated fuel so I wanted to do a lot more fuel-prep work than just drain and refill the gas tank. I pulled the gas tank, got it cleaned at a local shop who gave it a Castic acid bath for a day, got it back last week but haven't reinstalled it yet. Blew all the bad gas out of both the feed and return lines with an air compressor (the feed line between the fuel damper and the fuel filter; the return line between the fuel rail and the fuel tank). The fuel in the feed line had some black flakes in it, the fuel in the return line had a bit of
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