Not that anyone here would ever need it, but, I found it interesting that 1 out of 4 people will be arrested for a DUI at some point in their life. Statistically that means that someone in our own club may be stopped. While I am NOT an attorney, nor do I condone or encourage drinking and driving, this article was an interesting find. I saw it in the Seattle Weekly during a visit to the Seattle area on New Years.
You can find the article here: http://eganattorney.com/sites/eganattorney.com/files/imce_html/What-you-should-know-BEFORE-being-stopped-for-DUI.pdf
We are not affiliated or sponsored by this attorney, I just found this to be an interesting article especially since they have an app that can help you determine if you are over the limit.
Back at it this past weekend after some much needed vacation! I removed the rear bumper, fuel expansion tank, and the interior. I had some help from my better half. We spent about 4 hours Saturday and 5 hours on Sunday. I started with the rear bumper. The original bumper has hole in the middle of the top, from what I presume was a hitch. The back side of the bumper has a good bit of rust. These two issues probably add up to a new bumper. Ouch!
Next was removal of the fuel expansion tank and the fuel filler neck. The neck came out easy enough, but the filler neck was was not so easy. The flange at the top of the neck needed to be folded in so it would pass down through the hole in the body. The neck was badly damaged, no doubt contributing to the fuel smell when driving.
Then we removed the interior, which was straight forward and has begun to reveal the extent of floorpan rust. The passenger side is worse, with complete rust-through just behind the rear most seat support, about one inch by four. I have about 75% of the floor insulation off and it appears it was good at holding moisture. As the plastic interior panels were removed, most broke since they have become so fragile with age.
Next week I will remove the front and rear suspension and get unibody mounted to a rotisserie so I can get a good look at the underside and rails. Thanks for reading.
This weekend I worked on starting the exterior teardown. I started with the rear finisher around the tail lights. This revealed more rust damage than what I expected. I knew the hatch sill would need to be replaced but now it seams like there is deeper damage. I will be able to determine the extent only after the sill is removed. I was also able to remove the hood cowl, wiper assembly and the front fenders. The first fender took a lot longer than anticipated. This was because the guide I'm using directed me to remove the top inner fender bolts, one near the rocker panel, and one in the door jamb. What it didn't tell me is that there are two near the rocker panel, seven along the top inner fender, two joining the front of the fender to the corner valance panel, and three behind the headlight. Only three broken bolt heads from both fenders. Not bad considering it appears all of them are originals! Once the fenders were removed and the areas were cleaned up, everything looked solid, which is amazing considering how much debris was accumulated there. I spent 5 hours working on the Z and no money spent. I'm still shooting for April 2nd to have everything off of the uni-body and I still feel good about that goal. Thanks for reading.
I continued removing hoses and the wiring harness from the engine bay. I labeled all the wires with duct tape and a sharpie. Also removed the gas tank. Other than 44 years of dirt and a small dent, it is in really good shape. I spent a total of about 4 hours working on it this weekend. No money spent this week, but I have started looking at the complete stainless steel hardware replacement kits. Looks like they run about $300, and for that price, well worth the convenience and quality upgrade. I've set a goal to have everything pulled off of the uni-body by April 2. I think short term goals will motivate me to keep going. I now understand why some restorations can take years! Lastly, I noticed that the pics in my first blog were not the best, so I tried to make a conscious effort to do better. Enjoy, and thanks for reading.
I will be restoring my 72z back to "near original" condition. I will utilize all original equipment that can be reused and replace what can't with new. I am not overly concerned with originality, especially if it is expensive. I have set a budget of $7,700, and must include some tools, but I will document that as I go.
I will be utilizing two primary resources as guides for the process; How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble and of course, the Haynes manual.
I began last weekend by disconnecting all wiring and hoses from the engine and transmission and, preparing for removal. Two of the rear drive shaft bolts did not want to break loose so I persuaded them with the sawzall. I used my floor jack to support and remove the transmission without much trouble. I used a 2 ton engine hoist to remove the engine with a 10 foot section of chain wrapped around the exhaust header and an M10 bolt inserted into the bracket hole(?) next to the fuel pump. I purchased a 750lb capacity engine stand from Harbor Freight for $46. You can see it in photo 108 attached. I had to purchase the mounting bolts ($9) which were M12x1.5, 75 mm long. Unfortunately they were too long for the stand and bottomed out in the engine block before tightening so I cut a little off. In all, It took me about 10 hours to get the engine and trans out.
Today I worked for about 5 hours removing the battery doors, front bumper, grill, hood hinges, windshield cleaner reservoir, coil, and started brake lines. The brake lines have been a pain! I went to the auto parts store and got flared tube wrench for $6. Well worth the money, but I still couldn't get one loose. It's in the proportioning valve so......
Thanks for reading. Feel free to post questions, comments, and suggestions.
Well hello and welcome back. As foretold in the previous updates I plan on starting up the second year of the Datsun rebuild. Looking at where I left off Iâ€™m starting to think I bit off more than I can chew with the build expecting to take three years with just the winters being the active time on the project. I know I said I would poke here and there on the Datsun in the summer, fortunately and unfortunately I did not do anything with the Z except for take parts from on location and place them in another location no cleaning of parts nor wrenches on the vehicle were accomplished during the spring summer months of 2015. Where I left off with the Datsun was the dash removal. That went relatively well all one piece and no did not take instruments out like I thought I would this summer. With the dash out the next step of my plan is to continue removing all interior pieces . Whatâ€™s remaining? The duct work , heater box/AC, interior vinyl coverings, pedals, steering column, gas tank odds and ends, wiring/conduit, and glass. Sounds like a lot looks like a lot less than that. After that then the next phase is body work. What this should initial, should be the purchasing of all replacement panels and materials for the cars welding and patching needs. The end goal for this stage is to have the car cleaned up inside and out , rust removed and stopped, patchwork welded and muddled, primer sprayed and ready for paint come spring 2016. Wow right, I am bugging out a little because I donâ€™t want to include the drive-train and suspension in this phase but I have to remove it to be able to clean and clear the under-body of the Z. Comments would be helpful with this but either I am too cheap to get a paid blog or you folks who have subscribed donâ€™t care to give advice, In either case comments and advise are welcomed good or bad.
My thought is to go ahead with the suspension and drive-train removal but, when it comes to replacing parts keep that at minimum. The only reason this is any concern is due to the need to have a way to get the body to the paint shop, I donâ€™t have a frame dolly with wheels to bring it on a flat bed. Although I could make one, but then I would be forcing work during the summer which may not agree with my family? I could maybe bust arse a little and try and get both drive-train and suspension done after getting the car ready for paint then putting the car for paint as soon as I am done, maybe get what is necessary completed on the drive-train with the knowledge that I will have to take off some of the parts again to add exchange or repair. For example I donâ€™t need to mess with the brakes, but I plan on doing the Toyota forerunner conversion to the rear wheels to upgrade to disc brakes so everything on the spindle would have to go, also I am going to swap for a 200LSD vs. the current 180LSD but that doesnâ€™t have to come off too roll the car into a paint booth. In any case this will give me something to rant about next update on the blog. The body in paint will free up room for prep for the last phase, the rebuild with new engine. If the body is in paint then I will have a open stall for a donor car with the engine or a engine and transmission separate. Then when the painted car is complete I can store it outside covered over a make shift outdoor covering or at another location for a short time to get the donor car emptied or move it back if I just have the engine and transmission to deal with I will be working on building a Car rotisserie for the Z in hopes to have it on the stand in November. I will need to modify the two stands with a piece of square stock steel and weld into place. I intend on continue to strip the interior and catalog the parts and remove the suspensions both front and rear in preparation for the rotisserie. A lot has to be done so wish me luck.
After countless hours of looking at multiples setups and years of dreaming , watching and reading manga cartoons about racing and JDM cars, I have decided on a plan or direction for the Z. I am looking to slowly build the car in stages with the ultimate stage having very similar things as the devil Z with a 3.1 liter displacement and twin turbo, should be able to claim at least 600hp in a car that ways less than 2300lbs is pretty sick. That's the idea for the performance aspect. Since I don't foresee a Ferrari in my future, I plan on capitalizing on the Italian design cues the 240Z has already captured. I ma not going to go overboard with it, I feel that would make the car tacky. I do however am going to attempt to do this tastefully and efficiently as possible. My next update will be in a months time with pictures of the remaining deconstruction and current status, till then thanks for reading.
Hi all, if you're a regular visitor you'll probably notice a new slider at the bottom of every page. The slider is a content feed that will show you relative and matched content from our forums. The idea behind this feature is to attract your attention to a few interesting posts that you may not find by opening every forum. The content of this slider are created automatically and typically include posts with graphics.
I've been looking at it for the past few hours and the content is very engaging. Considering that I do not have a lot of time these days, I find it very useful to browse through topics that entertain me the most. I hope you enjoy this new feature and, as always, let me know if you have any feedback about how it works for you.
Wanted to let you know about a small fix I just implemented. If you were looking to upload a custom Avatar (personal photo), this was not enabled for everyone. For some reason it was only enabled for admin. Anyway, I just enabled the feature and you should now have the ability to upload your own custom avatar from your profile page.
To do this, simply click on your name from the upper (left) menu bar, then select My Profile. From inside there you should see a small photo on the left side. Hover your mouse over the image and click "Change" when it appears. Everyone should now have the ability to choose "Select Custom Photo" and then choose a file on your computer. Please give this a try and let me know if you have any questions.
If you have not yet selected an avatar, this would be a great time to get rid of that empty space.
Source: Custom Avatars
Nissan has issued a recall of the 2014 model Rogue manufactured between June 11, 2013 and June 7, 2014 due to a problem with the fuel pump. In all, the recall affects 76,242 vehicles. According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, the nickel plating on the fuel pump can come loose and bind the impeller which can, over time, cause the car to stall while driving, or not start up at all.
Owners of a Nissan Rogue manufactured between the dates listed above can bring in their vehicle to get the defective fuel pump replaced with a new one at no charge.
Auto news brought to you by aaaratedinsurance.com
WE ARE IN NEED OF A BUMPER FOR A 1979 DATSUN 810 2 DOOR COUPE (NO WAGON). WE HAD A MISHAP WHILE AT THE CARWASH AND THE BUMPER WING (WHAT WE WERE TOLD IT IS CALLED) WAS DAMAGED. I'M NOT SURE IF THE REAR WINGS ARE SOLD SEPARATELY, OR IF THE ENTIRE BUMPER IS NEEDED. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. WE JUST WANT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE AT IT'S ORIGINAL STATE.
CONTACT ME AT VJONES352004@YAHOO.COM.
Theyâ€™re the cars that have captured our imaginations for decades. Weâ€™re talking about famous movie cars. Theyâ€™re famous for different reasons. Some had starring roles, some had a personality of their own, most were crucial to the plot, but all of them looked awesome which is why they are to this day the most iconic cars in show business.
1. Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder (Ferris Buellerâ€™s Day Off). According to the movie, less than a hundred of these were ever made. It was with great sadness that audiences watched the iconic car meet a tragic demise.
2. The Batmobile (Batman). There is some debate as to which version of the batmobile is the coolest. But no matter which version of the film you see, thereâ€™s no denying that the batmobile in it would be pretty fun to drive.
3. Ford Gran Torino (Starsky and Hutch). There are rules for driving this car. First and foremost, you never, ever place your coffee mug on top of or inside of this car.
4. Pontiac Trans Am (Smokey and the Bandit). This car manages to look fast and mean when itâ€™s not even turned on.
5. Cadillac Miller-Meteor Ecto-1 (Ghostbusters). Just about every part of this car was busted (pun intended). But that didnâ€™t stop it from becoming one of the most famous cars to ever grace the silver screen.
6. Aston Martin DB5 (James Bond). Wearing a tux is a prerequisite for owning this car. That, and having a British accent.
7. Ford Mustang GT 390 (Bullitt). Steve McQueen drove it, so you know itâ€™s gotta be good.
8. 1969 Dodge Charger (Dukes of Hazzard). Itâ€™s not the most practical car in the world (the doors are welded shut). But if you donâ€™t might hopping through the window to get in and out, itâ€™s a pretty sweet car.
9. VW Beetle (The Love Bug). The most lovable car on this list. While it doesnâ€™t look like it would be particularly fast, it does come in first place.
10. DeLorean DMC-12 (Back to the Future). The deceptively named, DMC-12, is not the 12th DeLorean to be made. It was the first and only car made by DeLorean Motor Company. No list of movie cars would be complete without this DeLorean turned time machine. Whatever you do, donâ€™t get it up to 88 mph.
Auto news brought to you by directinsurance.agency
Source: autoblog. com/photos/best-movie-cars/?icid=autoblog|trend|best-movie-cars#image-2
So i have a 1978 280Z and im having an issue with my alternator. Im not actually sure what the problem is.... Ive had my alternator rebuilt and tested. Ive also had my battery replaced and tested. Both work, but the alternator is still not charging the battery. Once the car is started it will run, but as soon as I cut it off and try and restart it... the battery is dead. So it must be a wiring issue, but im just wondering if this has happened to anyone els.... if so, What is the problem???:mad::mad:
So I have look and looked this is an odd one.. So like a dumb #$& I used a screw driver with a piece of sandpaper trying to scrape the rust out of the cig lighter and the fuse blew but the radio also cut out but the radios fuse did not blow. Heres where it get wierd. Its running extremely ruff.. Smell rich out the exhaust , backfiring , lack of power.. Any Ideas why the engine would crap out from shorting the cig lighter?
this is my first post on classiczcars.com and i'm super excited to let you all know that 3 days ago i found and rescued original Scarab #157!
I put a link below to a short youtube video of the car when we got it back to the shop. If the the link does not work just do a youtube search of scarab #157 and it should pop right up.Within the next 24 hours I'm going to post a ton of pics of the car and lots and lots of documentation. This is a 2 owner car from California that was moved to the Midwest in1990. The car has not been driven for almost 5 years. We are planning a full 100% restoration on the car.
If there is enough interest, once we strip the car down, i can find out what the process would be to make molds of the body kit and whale tail. The originals are fiberglass. I think carbon fiber would be the way to go if we redid the body kit.
What do you guys think?
This is the original fascia nut and odd looking squarish washer that came out with it:
One of the captive nuts on the fascia on my car was stripped out so to fix that I made my own captive nut by cutting a rectangle shape out of a repair metal from Thrifty hardware and drilling and tapping it for the 4MM original machine screw. I used a bench grinder to make the new nut have the same size as the original and to have the beveled edges the original has.
The existing machine screw size is 4 MM and according to my drill and tap sheet the drill size to use for tapping is 1/8" (or 3.3MM) which worked well. The fascia nuts I had were stripped out bad enough that I could not be sure what the pitch was so I won't list that to avoid posting inaccurate info.
The existing captive nut can be easily removed by prying open the two metal retainer strips that are in front of and in back of the nut that hold it captive. I had to use care to pry the strips just far enough so that the stripped nut was removable as otherwise the new nut would want to fall out if the strips were sprung out.
I am new on the site and see that there are some very nice Z cars out here. I have a 1975 Datsun 280z that is in near showroom quality, no rust, no dents, all original parts. 11,700 miles on the rebuilt engine. It has sat in a garage a few years but I have now released the beast and taken her to Custom Shop to get back to showroom quality. Looking forward to posting the progress.
Hi everyone. I pulled the plug and removed my tach and tried to bypass the harness and wire the tach with just the three wires and found out the car will not start without the harness plugged in. Can I keep the harness plugged and just tie into the wires that make the tach function? Thanks Tony
Greetings and welcome to the Classic Zcar Club BLOG area. We have set aside this area for members who wish to host their own private Z-blog. The idea is this area will be to write articles, show build-updates, and other items related to your own projects. Think of a blog as a "journal" of your adventure. While the blog can be used to create discussions, we encourage everyone to post 2-way conversations in our Forums.
Enjoy your own personal blog and please feel free to jump up onto your own personal soap-box and share. It's a way for you to express your opinions and ideas about your Z. I'm sure there are others who will enjoy your technical write-ups and progress photos...
PS: We will be cleaning out simple questions and non-blog-related items.
I sprayed all interior channels of the rear frame rails and interior of wheel wells of a 240Z with two cans of Transtar amber anti corrosion material using existing holes where possible. The front frame rails are more likely to rust but I had already sprayed the interior of the front rails on my car. A thread describing how I did the front frame rails is here:
The Transtar amber anti corrosion material I used is described on another blog here:
Hatch anti corrosion interior passageways - Blogs - Classic Zcar Club
240Z rear frame naming convention I used (is there some standard for this?):
Preparation of the four crossmembers:
1. Front two crossmembers- I had to drill two 5/16" (or 8 mm) holes behind the seats on the floor, one behind each seat to access the two crossmembers right behind the seats (what I am calling front crossmembers). Right side -passenger side in U.S. shown -other side prepared in the same way:
These two holes could have been made under the car to avoid having holes in the floor behind the seats.
2. Middle crossmember- I had to enlarge an existing slot at the bottom of one of the shock tower braces on the floor with a large screwdriver to allow access to the interior of what I am calling the middle crossmember. Only one slot needed bending to access most of this crossmember, that one slot can be bent back later if desired, I left it bent open for possible future sprayings since it won't show when I put the shock tower vinyl back down:
I also enlarged a slot on the floor inside the tower braces on both sides of the car to gain access to a two inch long portion of the middle crossmember on both ends of it. The slot I used is closest to the back of the car inside the brace, see the two drawings immediately below for further clarification. This step possibly could have been skipped but I like to spray everything. These two enlarged slots will never be visible in the car.
Total of two slots INSIDE the braces were enlarged, one slot on each side.
3. Rear crossmember- Removed rear plastic interior side panel finishers (not my car- thanks to whoever has this car):
Spraying operation (tip- cover spray nozzle and top of can with a ziploc bag when spraying as wand tends to pop off can sometimes- prevents getting Transtar on your car or hand):
4. Front crossmember right side (both sides done the same way):
Spraying inboard from access hole
Spraying other direction, toward side of car
5. Middle crossmember:
I sprayed the middle crossmember by inserting the wand into the slot I enlarged slightly with a screwdriver. See step 16 below for more info. I also sprayed inside the last two inches of this crossmember on both sides of the car by inserting the wand into an enlarged slot inside each tower brace. See step 2 above for more info.
Top of picture is towards front of car.
6. Rear crossmember (spraying towards middle of car from both sides):
7. Frame rail right side (left frame rail was sprayed in the same way):
Spraying forward from access hole
Spraying toward back of car
8. This drawing shows drilled holes location, one of the slots that needed prying open a bit and access for rear crossmember. It does not show the tower brace slots inside the brace that I enlarged for that detail see last two drawings in step 2 above.:
9. Existing holes and "walls" in the rear frame (I used the front four existing holes for spraying both frame rails at the sides of the car, vinyl on shock tower was peeled back for access to middle holes):
10. For spraying the two front crossmembers behind seats on the floor I drilled a 5/16 inch hole (8 mm also would have worked) in line with an existing hole in frame rails and 40mm from the front edge of the existing frame rail hole. A 5/16" (or 8mm) hole is just large enough to allow the transtar wand with its 360 degree brass spray head to fit through.
11. I pried open the floor sheetmetal slot a bit at the shock tower brace bottom by twisting slightly with a large screwdriver to give access for spraying the center crossmember.
I also pried open the floor sheet metal hidden inside the brace itself to access a two inch long closed off area on both ends of the middle crossmember. Although I did this someone else might want to skip it.
12. I removed the side finisher panels immediately in front of the tail light finisher panel to gain access to the rear most crossmember.
13. I peeled the vinyl up from the floor on the shock tower braces to allow access to an existing hole in the floor to spray the inside of the side frame rails.
14. I poked a hole in the bottom of a trash bag and taped the hole in the bag around the holes I would be spraying into to prevent getting spray on the interior of the car should a wand be pulled too far out of a hole while spraying is in progress.
15. The Transtar plastic spray wand can get kinked when spraying the side frame rails forward of the rear wheels. I actually broke an old wand practicing for the actual spraying and realized the frame rails that go forward and down from the shock towers make two turns, kinda tough on the stiff plastic wand. To minimize the chance of breaking a wand I inserted it gently until it met resistance at the second turn a few inches from the front crossmembers. I pulled the wand out and then inserted it into the existing hole behind the front crossmembers to spray the bottom part of the side rails just behind the seats. This existing hole is 40mm towards the back of the car from the two holes I drilled for the front crossmember. This bottom part of the side frame rails behind the seats is only about 4 inches long so after the wand goes in about 4 inches there will be felt resistance as it tries to turn up towards the shock tower. As soon as I felt that resistance I stopped inserting the wand as I had already done the portion of the frame rail the wand was trying to turn up into from the shock tower hole.
16. The center crossmember didn't want to let the wand go through the bent slot more than a few inches at first with the spray head on it so I used a wand with no spray head that used to come with the spray wand set from Transtar. The wand set I bought 26 Mar 2014 did not have a white third wand with no spray head however a brass spray head could have been cut off the 2nd wand that came with this recently purchased wand set and that headless wand used then. I used the old headless wand I had from the earlier wand kit purchase. I finally did get the wand with the 360 degree brass head to insert the full length of this middle crossmember, I just had to gently keep trying by trying different entry angles and by gently twisting the wand back and forth. Didn't want to kink the wand with brute force.
17. There is a blockage in the rear most crossmember in the middle that is maybe 6 inches long. To get around that I used a headless wand as that is skinny enough to go through the blockage and followed up with a wand with the brass 360 degree head on both side inserting it gently as far as it would go. The 360 degree head has a spray that sprays forward as well as spray towards the sides so the coverage is more than 360 degrees.
18. I made a mess, this project is a great job for the street as the Z frame has many joints for the Transtar spray to flow out of before it becomes waxy non moving anti corrosion material.
While I was at it department - (sung to the tune of that old Beatle's song "I should have known better"):
I also sprayed the interior of the wheel wells since they tend to rust and were accessible with the finisher panels out. After that since I had some Cosmoline handy I painted with a brush all metal I could reach including hidden areas not covered with transtar material. The Cosmoline I have is fairly thick and would not have flowed into the seam the way the freely flowing Transtar material did so I used the Transtar material first on the seam followed up by Cosmoline painted everywhere behind the finisher panel. If I had had no Cosmoline handy I could have dipped a brush into the Transtar spray by spraying the transtar on the bottom of the wheel well first.
Left side of car wheel well. Right side done the same way.