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Found 33 results

  1. Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock! Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler KVID0467.mp4 KVID0466.mp4 KVID0864.mp4
  2. Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of lateral play in the shaft allows it to expand or contract almost three inches. ...on to the pics! First a shot of the shafts after I ran one through the media cabinet next to the other. The removal of the u-joints is straight forward, several well documented methods on line if you need help there. Now the science! Here you can see that the axles are identical in each dimension. Also note the layout of the snap rings, retaining rings and the balls and spacers. And for those that were still disbelieving, a shot of a 240 half-shaft next to the 280 half-shaft. 240 shaft with the u-joint still attached. Then on to refurbishing! You will need 4 new u-joints. SKF UJ393, MOOG 393, or Precision 393 will all work or any variation thereof. I media blasted the shafts and protected the bearing surfaces while doing so. I then painted the exposed parts in Cast Iron engine paint from Duplicolor. Love the look! I re-used the old boots as they were in great shape. After blasting the shafts and painting them, I turned the boots inside out and fed the wide side over the bearing shaft. I used the cut-off top of a funnel to aid the narrow end going over the shaft and up into position. Worked excellent. Leave the boot inside out for now. Slide the upper retaining ring and snap ring on to hold the shafts together, tuck them up by the boot. Refer to the above pic for proper order. Attach the lower retaining ring and snap ring. Put the cleaned spacers and bearings into a zip lock bag full of a good quality bearing grease and ensure they are coated nicely all around. Place them in the channels in the correct order, ball bearing at the bottom, spacer at the top. The grease will keep them in place. Add about 10g of grease to the top of each channel. Carefully slide the shaft back into the axle while ensuring the ball bearing and spacers are supported by the retaining tabs. Make sure the shaft is orientated correctly, the same direction as the axle end! Try and keep the bearings at the bottom of the assembly as it goes together. Holding it vertical helps. When the shaft is in the axle, add another 30g of grease to the top of the shaft, concentrating on the open groves of the axle that did not receive the bearings. Use the retaining ring to push it all together and seat the bearings. I used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the retaining ring flat. Worked great, didn't need much pressure. Reattach the snap ring to the axle at the top. Wipe up the grease you got everywhere... and pull the boot back down outside-in , ensuring the top fully inverts and seats in the groove, same as the bottom. Attach your favourite brand of cv boot clamp over the boot ends and securely tightly. Mine had not arrived in time for the pictures. Proceed on to installing the u-joints, being careful not to damage the pretty paint! Grease the u-joints and you are done! Another 40 years of glorious torque! Thanks to Jim @zKars for his guidance and wisdom.
  3. At the risk of sounding redundant, I wanted to put together a coilover list. There are a few of these threads/topics around the internet already, but lots of them are from years towards 2006 (I didn't even have my driver's license yet) and have old, outdated links, or are not very comprehensive and easy to read. I am looking at coilover sets for my '78 280z so these links will be specific to that (mainly so I can reference it later). Assume that all are ride-height adjustable. I didn't look super hard for lowest price, so the options may be cheaper somewhere else. Order: Expensive --> Least Expensive Format: Name | Cost | Colors/Special Notes | Link TechnoToyTuning Coilovers | $2040 | Maroon/gold, NO-WELD (send in your cores) | https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z + https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Arizona Z Car Coilover Set | $1600 | Red\Silver, camber plates | http://arizonazcar.com/coil.html Stance USA Coilover kit | $1295 | Black/Bronze, Camber Plates and Swift Springs @ +$300 each | http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension/ BC Racing Coilovers - BR Series | $1200 | Black/Gold, camber plates | https://coiloverdepot.com/products/74-5-78-nissan-260z-s30-bc-coilover-br-type?variant=16741482757 KSport Control Pro Fully Adjustable Coilover Kit | $1080 | Black/Orange, Pillowtop Camber Adjustability | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/ksport__cns361-kp.html D2 Coilovers - RS Series | $1000 | Black/Purple, camber plates | http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/d2-d-ni-01.html Megan Racing Coilovers | $900 | Black/Red, Pillowtop Camber Adjustablity | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/megan_racing__mr-cdk-280z.html CX Racing | $869 | Black/Red, Pillowball mount & Camber plate adjustable | https://www.cxracing.com/coilover/coilover-nissan-infinity/CO-B-280Z-0405-PB Ground Control Coilover Kit | $429 | Maroon\Yellow, No adjustability | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/ground_control__6020.01.html Other Evolved Front Coilovers (FRONT ONLY) | $1290 | Maroon/Gold, camber plates, NO-WELD (send in your cores) - Don't seem to list a matching rear set | https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/evolved-front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Intrax | $??? | There are 4 options on their site. Can't find any pricing. Made in Holland. | http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/ If I missed any, let me know and I can add them.
  4. Version 1.0.0

    752 downloads

    This is a full version of our copyrighted Zcar Microfiche CDROM. These files were originally distributed on a physical CD, but due to updated technology we are now providing it as a download. This is provided exclusively to members and the files within this download are the real-deal. You'll receive access for all 14 files for use on a single computer or mobile device. This document is a fund-raiser for our club. Note: This is a free download for subscribing members. Details can be found here. S30 - 240z, 260z, 280z Microfiche CDROM (c)Copyright 2000 Mike Gholson, Internet 240z Club Filename Description -------------------------------------------------------------------- S30_1a Introduction S30_1b Part Names S30_1c Part Numbers S30_2a Engine L24 & L26 S30_3a Engine L28E S30_4a Electrical S30_5a Powertrain S30_5b Axle S30_5c Brake S30_6a Steering S30_6b Body L24 S30_7a Body L26 & L28E S30_8a Body L26 & L28E 2+2 S30_8b Miscellaneous

    $15.00

  5. Evans 280z front pully gear 36-1 tooth.dwg I made it out of 1018 steel used a CNC water jet to cut it. I know I was in need of some specs and I finally broke down and made my own and I want to share it with other people who need this. Everyone feel free to use it or modify it. Enjoy!!!
  6. Version 1.0.0

    28 downloads

    The factory manual provided with early series S30 240z cars. Your DATSUN has been designed and manufactured with great care and effort to assure your satisfaction. However, to obtain the maximum in performance, proper operation and periodic maintenance are necessary. This book is designed to acquaint you with the many features of your new DATSUN. Proper break-in, maintenance, and operational methods are outlined, as well as technical information. Attention to these areas is essential if optimum performance is desired . Please familiarize yourself with this manual and keep it in your glove compartment so you many refer to it when necessary. If any problems are discovered on your new car, contact your local authorized dealer and request a complete check-up. A factory service representative will then make sure your car is serviced in accord with the latest factory approved methods.

    Free

  7. I need your advice regarding my '72 240Z. Can't get either of my front end strut inserts out of their strut housing after I removed the gland nut. They should just slip out. They do not. Perhaps they are rusted in? I've saturated them in penetrant, heated the housings with a propane torch, tapped the housings with a hammer, and of course pulled on 'em like crazy. Got any ideas for me, please?
  8. I have a Fiberglass (recently just sold the urethane one before installing it) Type 1 airdam for my 280z. Of course, it did not come with any hardware. Just looking at it, it seems like I'll need 6 bolts, 6 nuts, and 12 washers. What size bolts did you guys use for hardware? Anyone remember? And I'm assuming I should use stainless?
  9. Version 1.0.0

    124 downloads

    1976 S30 Microfiche EUROPE

    Free

  10. Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.
  11. I'm setting up triple 45s with the cannon manifold and conversion kit and I hit a snag. The plate that the throttle linkages connect to on each carb is so close that the head of the bolt holding them together hits a mounting point on the carb. I was thinking I would just flatten out this point since it's not needed and move on with my life. Do I just have it set up slightly wrong or is this common?
  12. Hi all, I'm from France and I'm interested in a Datsun 240Z that has been imported from the US in the year 2016. I know it could be crazy but I would like if someone in this big community could have informations about this Z. The VIN number is HLS3028417. It is a 71' Z. The plate number is 2SRX221 and the previous owner was from San Jose (CA). The car has the signature of Yoshihiko Matsuo on the passenger sunvisor if it can help. Here are some pictures of the car . Any help or advice welcome. Thank you
  13. Unused floor pans bought from Motorsport in California no reasonable offer refused rich 909 560-3095 rhchew@att.net
  14. EMGRHC

    Metal cowl

    Cowl for under windshield wiper for early Z's; purchased from Motorsport unused, still in brown protective coating; no reasonable offer refused so cal LA area rhchew@att.net 909 560-3095
  15. Unused floor pans bought from Motorsport in California no reasonable offer refused rich 909 560-3095 rhchew@att.net
  16. Ok so first off I have a 1977 280z. I am currently using an alternator from an oldsmobile cutless 1981. This is a 83amp alternator. Everything is mounted and wired correctly. As of recent I have been having the issue of charging. Now my charging light turns on with the engine off. I have checked the resistance in the yellow and black wire from the alternator to the battery and I read 40ohms. I believe spec is 35ohms. Now the factory volt meter is inaccurate. 14v charging looks like 16v (I have verified no over charging system charges at 14.7 when charging). Now heres where things get interesting I have seen the voltage drop when putting a load on the system lights, blower and even just brake lights. I have replaced the altinator a number of times thinking I have a bad or faulty internal regulator. and now the headlights will not turn on. From what I'm seeing in the wiring diagram I see one wire that comes from the voltage gauge and eventually ends at the headlight. Is it possible that all my problems are due to my voltage gauge? Thanks for your help
  17. Hi all, does anyone happen to have a top view (plan view) of a S30 - 240z, 260z, or 280z ? It can be a photo or drawing. I'm looking to do some work with our logo and I can't seem to find a good one.
  18. Mike

    Classic Mad Max Z

    I just love this classic Z in a Mad Max theme... Posted by Francisco Penha on Facebook.

    © Francisco Penha & Mike Gholson

  19. SIZZLING SACRAMENTO SUMMER SHOW AND SHINE W/DYNO ALL CARS WELCOME 2 CAR SHOWS IN 1 CLASSICS (1980 AND OLDER) & MODERN (1981 AND NEWER) 1 BEST OF SHOW RAFFLE -MUSIC -FOOD -GAMES FOR THE KIDS -PROCEEDS TO BENEFIT AFTER SCHOOL YOUTH ATHLETICS July 25, 2015 8am-4pm $40 Pre-Registration $50 at the Door 4100 Duckhorn Dr, Sacramento, CA 95834 Contact Herman at (916) 572-3775 or Hermanmahurin@gmail.com to register
  20. June 14, 2015 9am-2pm $25 registration @ Ninja Sush 8937 Folsom Blvd Sacramento, CA 95826 -Raffle -Live Music -Food -games for kids Contact Herman at (916) 572-3775 or Hermanmahurin@gmail.com to register
  21. Hey guys, Courtney here. I haven't posted since my last update on getting my orange Pumpkin Z home. Everything was great, until seemingly overnight, the car started to give me problems again... Last time I messed with it and fixed it, I had adjusted the timing to further advance it, and that seemed to fix the issue. After a fresh rebuild on the dual Webers, I thought for sure that I would have a good chance at getting the setup to work. Now I'm finding that it's not that simple. I took the car out around town the other day, and it started bogging. I now can't drive it over 2k rpms, because it bogs that badly, and honestly, it's a little scary. It even backfired from the carbs once, which was an issue we had before, but thought we had fixed when we adjusted the timing. (The timing is currently fully advanced.) At this point, I'm looking for any advice I can get. I've been told that dual Webers on Z cars can be the most difficult setup, and that running the stock SU carbs is the best way to go. But I've also heard that if you dial in your Webers correctly, they can be great. I'm really conflicted, and since I have no history on these carbs other than the fact that I rebuilt them, I'm not sure what to do. Ideally I would like to keep them, but I won't be able to decide until this mystery issue is fixed. If any of you know 510s, you probably know who Troy Ermish is. I'm thinking that I might just take the car to him, since he's local and builds race 510s running dual Webers all day long. Any advice or ideas would be appreciated! Thanks guys.
  22. This is my very first forum post... ever. Yeah, I know. I've scoured forums before for information, but never actually registered or posted! So here I am. My name is Courtney. I'm a freelance photographer here in the SF Bay Area. I mostly shoot automotive material, along with events, weddings, etc. I'm also a huge car enthusiast, and my soft spot sits with Japanese classics. My boyfriend bought his four door 510 about a year ago, and I had been searching for my dream car for about that amount of time. Fortunately, I now own it! This is my 1973 240z. To make an extremely long story short, all I can say is that this was one of the most stressful car buying experiences ever. If you want to read the entire story, please check out my website's blog, found here: Courtney Cutchen's Portfolio - Blog - Chasing A Dream: My 1973 Datsun 240z It covers the whole experience, and has lots of photos. I really only had a few requirements for my new car. It had to have minimal rust, had to be running, and it HAD to be a first gen. It took a lot of searching, and a lot of patience. I had dead ends and scam ads on CL that left me discouraged. But I can now say I own my dream car! It's in beautiful condition, and I'm a diehard fan of the classic, clean, stock interior. Regardless, I'm excited to start modding! My goal is to get it in solid running condition before any of that fun stuff, though. A couple weekends ago, we did a rebuild on the dual Webers, which was a success for the most part. They just need to be fine tuned, as I think the mixture is just a little off. I think there's also a little hiccup in the ignition timing, so I'm going to address those problems this coming weekend. I'm working on building my profile, and I look forward to reading about your builds! Cheers, Courtney
  23. Hey guys! First off, I was so happy to have received such a warm welcome to classiczcar from my first intro thread. I'm really glad you guys enjoy the car, and I'm going to do my best to keep consistently updating on my progress! So, here's what I did yesterday. (Get ready for a lot of words.) If you didn't read my intro post, you missed some info. Basically, when I brought the car home from Oregon, I was unable to get it back to the Bay Area that same night. I was fortunate enough to be able to leave it at my friend's shop in Sacramento (known online as CAtuned) to be able to work on it until I got the kinks worked out. The first day we went to work, we rebuilt the dual Webers. I really don't have a lot of history on these carbs, and the previous owner didn't tell me when they were installed, so I figured a rebuild definitely couldn't hurt. They also needed a good cleaning, since when we were struggling to make it up a mountain pass on the way out of Oregon, the car ultimately died on the side of the road after backfiring and sputtering incessantly. I had never rebuilt a carburetor in my life, so it was a learning experience. But it was successful! After the rebuild, we couldn't get the car to run right. It started and idled just fine, but under throttle, it spit flames from the carbs. Not good. After some observation, we started to think that it was more of a timing issue than a carb issue. I had failed to check the timing initially, so that was my fault. But at this point, we had been working in the hot Sacramento weather for almost nine hours, so we were ready to call it a day. When we returned yesterday, we brought with us a timing light and some faith. The battery had died since we'd last started it, so we hooked it up to a charger to get it started. However, when we got it started, there was an immediate knocking coming from the motor. I felt my heart sink, and my friends and I looked at each other and all said, "Oh ****." It basically sounded like an awful rod knock. We listened all over the motor, down to the oil pan, but there was nothing out of the ordinary. Just this stupid knocking coming from somewhere in the front right of the engine bay (from my pov in the driver's seat). Under throttle, it sped up, but then seemed to go away at around 2k rpms. We figured if it was a rod knock, the damage was done, so there was nothing we could do. We ended up advancing the timing just a tad, and that fixed the entire backfiring issue. The carbs were probably fine from the start, but now I have rebuilt carbs and a solid running motor, so I'm happy. But the knocking was still there. When my boyfriend went to flip the off switch on the battery charger, the knocking immediately went away. We all stopped for a second and just stared at each other. He flipped the charger back on, and the knocking came back. We laughed hysterically, and mostly out of relief that it wasn't a rod knocking in my motor. Has anyone ever encountered anything like this before? We had no idea what could cause something so weird. There's absolutely zero ticking/knocking from the motor now. After that, we went on a test drive. Everything went smoothly, and the car ran great. No backfiring, no sputtering, and no hesitation like before. I did notice that the throttle hangs up just a tiny bit, but it's nothing major and doesn't really affect the drivability. I'll address that next. I decided that it was time to bring her back home to the Bay. I wasn't 100% confident to bring her on an hour and a half trip of all freeway. After waiting a short while for the tow truck, we were on our way. All in all, it was a really successful day, and I'm beyond stoked to have Pumpkin home. (The blue 510 below is my boyfriend's.)
  24. Hello All, First off i am new to my Z, and new to the forum. Im sure my problem has been discussed previously but i am having some very odd symptoms! I bought my car maybe 2 months ago. After sitting 30 years in dry storage the whole brake system was shot. I purchased all new pads and shoes and retainers and rebuilt the calipers and the wheel cylinders, along with new flex lines. I also bought the correct master cylinder for my car, it being built in 12/1970. My problem is that even after bleeding the entire system, i cannot get pressure to the front calipers. The bleeder on the master to the rear has pressure, but the front bleeder, once opened, does not. The pedal pumps up and seems rock hard. Please I have no idea why i am not getting pressure to the front system. Oh and the reaction disk is glued to the back of the pushrod so that did not fall out of place.
  25. Alright so this is my first Datsun. Bought it about two weeks ago and how I assumed I got a deal on it I was quickly reminded of why I hate buying modified cars. I'll explain it like this: It's a 73 240z, I bought the car from a guy who said that the car had already been l28et swapped. He told me it used to run and that the cam gear had sheared off the previous motor and that he had just put this motor in he found in a savage yard from a 83 280zx turbo, and explained that he didn't have time for it anymore because he had another project he was too busy working on. I quickly looked over the car. saw it had a P90a head so I figured sure its a turbo head atleast, the car was low on rust, and the man seemed honest enough. Well I got the car home on a trailer and started looking over everything. Started well enough but would act weird above 2500 rpm. I started look at everything and realized that the O2 wire wasn't going anywhere. So I started looking for the male plug in for 02 sensor. Can't find it. I start wondering if I'm blind and start looking up diagrams to see if I can find what color wire it is to see if somehow the wire got placed somewhere else by accident and somehow itd still start. I finally got frustrated enough to check the ECM and found the tag: Part no.: A11-600-000 Lot no.: 5Z12 For: L28 Boom. I look it up and from what I can tell the ECM is for a 75-78 NA l28 and then I start looking and come to find out these don't have O2 sensors (never had a car that wasn't carbed and didn't have a oxygen sensor)?? This is where I start to get lost. I am beginning to think that the car was a l28 swapped car when he bought it. no turbo and this guy just threw a turbo l28 engine in it thinking he could just do that. plug everything in and "yay, I've got a turbo car" when he realized lifes not that easy he sold it. Okay so.... That ECM Part no. is that specifically for a 75-78 l28 non turbo car? Did they have oxygen sensors or not? How can I tell what the AFM is for? Whats the differences in the harness between a 75-78 l28 non turbo harness and a 83 l28et? If this is a AFM and a ECU for a NA could I just throw a header on this engine and call it a day or would this be hell to make work with this ECU or what? Anything could be helpfull. I know this is a very open ended question in a way and I realize I am a noob and I did search but I am so confused with what I have at this moment I'm alittle lost on what even to search for... Thanks for anything.
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