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About redfairladyzee

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 31435

  • Rank: ApprentiZe

  • Content Count: 15

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  • Joined: 09/15/2016

  • Been With Us For: 1951 Days

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  • Map Location
    San Bernardino, CA
  • Occupation
    Student/Amazon.com warehouse

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    '76 280z project car.<br />
    Persimmon Red #110<br />
    Stock L28

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redfairladyzee's Achievements


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  1. Hello all, Before I go out and buy a timing gun, I was hoping to hear your thoughts on this short video clip. Finally got my 76 280z running and idling after finding a vacuum leak at the booster, but the idle is still really low, and I believe I hear it missing/bogging when accelerating ? idle adjustment screw seems to do nothing in either direction. New plugs, new plug wires, new water temp sensor, new battery, cleaned the injector plug connections, but that's about it. Thank you, Oscar VID_20190802_074213.mp4
  2. It doesn't run as great as I remember, but I did get it to start!!!! Thanks to all of you for your replies!! Smacking the unit didn't work this time, so I went with a cheapo part from my local store just to get the project going. Will definitely look at an OE option soon. ??
  3. Awesome, thank you all for such quick replies!! Will definitely check out the EFI Bible linked and also give the fuel pump a smack just in case it can save me a few bucks ? Will update you guys soon. ?
  4. Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any help you can give me. My 1976 280z was running fine last time I drove it, but after sitting in the CA sun for 2 years, I'm struggling to get it back on the road. After draining out the old gas, I have a new battery, new spark plugs, and a couple gallons of new gas in. When I go to start it, all I get is cranking, and no turn over, and I have yet to hear the fuel pump cone on. I've tried moving the new battery to the rear and getting 12v to the fuel pump directly, but this doesn't get the fuel pump going either, just a click. I also don't seem to be getting power to the fuel pump when cranking. Any ideas on what might be going on, or existing threads on this that I can go off of would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Oscar **Also zero fuel pressure when cranking** *Reading taken under the hood, after the fuel filter*
  5. Not at all! You and your kids definitely have the right idea. Waaaay too much technology in the newer cars, too distracting in my opinion. My dad just bought a 2016, and he has no use for half the technology in there since he doesn't own a smartphone haha
  6. Exactly right, CO! Since I'd never driven a car older than '97, I guess I just assumed the brake feel was normal to the older car. I do remember telling the previous owner after the test drive, that the brakes were going to take some getting used to. but he did not mention the bad booster, and I didn't notice the blocked off line, so that was the extent of it. Rock hard brakes, is definitely spot on! I'm glad to learn that I'll have a softer pedal to look forward to, and I'm sure I'll appreciate the booster so much more after experiencing the work out that is braking without one. I'll have to start looking for a booster soon. I just bought some pricey text books for school, so maybe I won't get one right away. But it's definitely on the list after I get a few more work weeks in. Thanks for the recommendation, I'll start my search local then. I know from time to time, part-out z's come up in my area, so maybe I'll luck out and find a functioning used one.
  7. So this morning I woke up determined to find the bolt I'd misplaced, and in doing so, I'd hopefully find some answers to my idle issues. I believe I found both. For starters, here's the vacuum line to the power brake booster, once again blocked off as it was when I purchased the car. (I found the bolt) With crossed fingers, I then went into the car and turned the key to the now hopefully better idling car. This is what resulted. It's idling pretty good now, nowhere near the 500rpms I was getting before, and most importantly, the car did not shut off, nor did I hear a vacuum leak after turning the car off. I think it's pretty safe to say that I'll need to look into replacing or fixing my power brake booster. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions, knowledge, and for my restored idle. Next time I post it will hopefully be about a steady idle without the need of the bolt, and rather, one that's due to a well functioning brake booster. Thank you, -Oscar
  8. Thank you CO for all of your help! I'll be sure to block off the vacuum at the green arrow and confirm, but I'm sure you've got it right. Any recommendation on rebuilt brake boosters? I tried doing a quick search for new ones, and at first glance, no luck. I'll keep looking in case replacing the unit as a whole ends up being my solution.
  9. Sorry for the delay, but I was just now able to pop open the hood and take some pictures. Unfortunately I didn't find the hardware/bolts that were used to cap the hoses by the previous owner, so the car is not back to where it ran good. Hopefully the pictures will still be helpful. Where the arrows are pointing to, there used to be a bolt, and that bolt blocked off the hose there. All I did was remove the bolt and connect the hoses. In the first photo, to the carbon canister. And in the second photo, I thought was to the BCDD, but now I don't know. -Oscar
  10. I appreciate both of your inputs and advice on where to start troubleshooting! Exactly the type of responses I was hoping for. It must of slipped my mind, but I did also end up unplugging and reconnecting the I believe purge vacuum line to the carbon canister. So I'll have to go over the lines once again when I get home. Maybe a few photos will also help me explain which hoses I've since unplugged and reconnected. I have the efi bible, and I'll be sure to download the FSM tonight. Thanks again, both of you. - Oscar
  11. p.s. - only even considering water temp sensor because I had to replace water pump because it began to leak coolant.
  12. Hello, everyone. I've got a '76 280z that I've taken on as a second car. I bought it earlier in the year, and it ran like a champ. I drove it home from Temecula, CA to San Bernardino, CA. Same day, no problem. Problems started when I went to change the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and old vacuum and fuel lines before taking on the smog test. Turns out the BCDD was disconnected and lines running to and away from it had been blocked off. So of course, I reconnected them and since then, the car is not a fan of smooth idling. Idle starts out at about 1k, and it quickly drops down to 500 rpms and even lower at times. After I turn the car off, or if it dies. I'll hear a vacuum leak. I'm assuming I've got a bad BCDD? Thoughts? I'm also considering a bad water temp sensor, and have purchased a new one. I'll have to install it in the following days and I'll report back if it's fixed the idle at all. Also have considered once again blocking off the bcdd, and fixing my problems that way. But that's a step backwards as I need to pass smog. Thanks for reading, and I'd appreciate your knowledge. I'm a first time z owner, and I think it shows. haha -Oscar
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