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  1. Today
  2. Hihi.. don't.. please don't be angry with me but i'm here also to learn a bit of extra english.. (So correct me if i'm wrong but i wanted to "learn" you some hahaha) I think It's: to see what'S wrong and.. stay tuneD. Live and learn new thingS every day. (Hihihi.. i'm sorry for correcting already or is english not your first language?) ABOUT the fuses.. Zedhead is right.. and.. also, It could be a lose wire or one that's been damaged and sometimes makes a short to the frame. I've seen flashers that were rotten away on the inside and they blow fuses to. Most times you will find the problem near the flashers and other parts were there are connectors. Last place to look is the cables lying in the car on the floor and through the firewall, check your rubber grommets. Hope you find it soon because there is no problem in electronics worse then have a problem sometimes! (intermittent) One can take out a multimeter and measure but most of the time all is well and that's bloody frustrating, as an ex elec. engineer i know all about that!
  3. Some more photos from my 'autopsy'. This time from the outer surface of the rim where 50+ years of use has worn through the outer layer and revealed a naturally-grained surface below it:
  4. Radiator? Looks like the floor under the seat.
  5. Rockauto has multiple brands of new master cylinders, including Beck Arnley (about $65). You most likely can get one at your local NAPA auto parts store. I still think it is the vacuum booster rod adjustment. It only needs to be off a tiny amount to cause the brakes to drag (not release fully).
  6. There should be only cables on the back of the lock... never seen those on the side..
  7. That's pretty cool, I like the EX-cab. How does it run?
  8. Hi Keith , that is so nice , I just imagine how much passion and efforts has been put into the jute . You will be rewarded I am sure . We will get to know how the jute pads are shaped . There are a lot of good examples here and there . Kats
  9. Wow; great insight, sleuthing and tips! I searched high and low for a pic of the inside of the tank; nice find! Such a relief that it doesn't have screen on the end. And my symptoms sound very similar to yours: Seems to run better with more fuel in the tank. I think the added gravity of the extra fuel supplies a little extra pressure, and also dilutes the contaminants in the tank. Filter is on the way, and EVERYTHING is getting checked and blown out this weekend. I've seen folks run an extra inline filter back near the rear axle; I may do the same. Wish me luck, and thanks again!
  10. I think I will do the same. Finding parts for the old one is a pain
  11. I'll bring two damaged, but with working switches to the Club Meeting @7tooZ Just buy me a beer. 😎
  12. Yesterday
  13. Maybe the clicking/knocking noise is the fuel pump. Not turning. The engine does not seem to be spraying any fuel. You did not mention fuel pressure. Very important.
  14. Here's the "Queen bean with sweet tea". This has been like a ship's wheel for me, "driving me nuts" for the last 2 years. Finally starting to care about the cars again so I've drained the old fuel and will replace all filters tomorrow. Exmark is completely full BTW. Sitting off and on for 2 years. It ain't good. But no sign of Red-Kote! Hurray me.
  15. O2 Oxygen Sensor Stepped Weld Bungs (5 Bungs/5 Plugs) M18 x 1.5 | eBay maybe just weld on some mount ears and use something like this. I have not done much drilling into cast iron, maybe that is the expensive trick, tools hard enough to deal with heat cycled cast iron?
  16. Ok tested again today, this time with the plugs torque to spec, again passed with flying blue colors. Only thing I can think of is something in the coolant that had to boil off. Perhaps all that WD40 I used (filled it with the stuff then drained it out to prevent rust after rinsing the evaporust out. Maybe there was trace amounts still in there? I guess as a test I could simply dump some WD 40 back in and see if the test for gas comes back positive again. Or I could move on to the turbo install. With the 02 sensor I am able to monitor the Air/fuel ratio pretty well. I could just keep an eye on that and try it with boost on the NA setup. I did test the color change by sampling the exhaust from the muffler, turned yellow right away.
  17. View Advert Distributor Support 73 240Z Hi All, I need to replace my distributor support on my 73 240. The mounting bolt hole has broken, not sure where to get a replacement. Thanks for any help. Advertiser Halvernaz Date 08/08/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240Z  
  18. RIP indeed. What a way to go... Details on the car? (too soon?)
  19. Okay, this one is going to be a long one, so I will try to bust it up into pieces to keep the conversation organized, because the dash harness (or harnesses, as it turns out) was a doozy. In one way it wasn't as tricky as the engine, because it is the correct harness for the car this time, but it was trickier in another way in that there were few things I could identify before I disconnected them (being disconnected when I bought the car) and the ones with spade and bullet connectors are not in the FSM Body Electrical section, so I am juggling between several years of FSM, the diagrams I downloaded here, and lots of Google searches. For the purpose of clear communication I will refer to both of these harnesses as halves of the larger "dash harness." If I need to distinguish between them I will refer to the one with all of the lightbulbs as harness #2 and the other one as harness #1, since their part numbers are 24013-M3322 and 24013-M3321, respectively. --- @SteveJ, @zKars, @Zed Head, and everyone else, I am hoping to enlist your help in identifying at least some of the 13 things I couldn't figure out so I can fill in the blanks in the table. Hopefully some of you will know what these should be. Missing Wires: In capturing the wire mapping from the FSM, I found that my harness is missing a black wire with a yellow stripe from the blue connector, and a black wire from the green connector (not the heavier gauge wire that goes to the combination switch). After reviewing the FSM and the diagram, the only black and yellow wire running through the dashboard I see is the one from the ignition to the starter (via the inhibitor switch in automatic cars). I have accounted for that one and it is in a different connector. The black one could be anything, really. I don't have any black wires missing on the other ends that I can tell. Unidentified Connectors #1 & 2: There are several places there the two harnesses connect to each other via bullet connectors. I have figured out what all of the bullet connector are throughout the whole harness except for one on each half. One is a male bullet on the end of a 3-inch blue wire with a red stripe exiting Intermittent Relay plug. The other one is a female bullet also on a blue wire with a red stripe going to the fuse box. #3 (Harness 1): Next is a 3-pin connector with 3 wires (White w/ Black, White, Blue) on the branch that goes down the center console to the fuse box. The blue wire has a blue sleeve on it that may or may not be a repair from the previous owner. This one is right next to the connector for the antenna motor (left side of the photo above), so I thought this might be for the radio, but I have that one accounted for. There is no component on the wiring diagram with this combination of wire colors, as far as I can tell. #4 (Harness 1): This one might be power for the Air Conditioning, or it could be for the heater. There is a blue wire branching off the 30-amp fuse in the diagram for that. The trouble is, that fuse should have a red wire coming off it for the blower fan, but I am not seeing that in this mess. #5 (Harness 1): Another truly perplexing one is this 3-prong clip with two black and one green wire. This exits the center-console branch along with the ones above, but it's about a foot long. No idea what this is. it's missing in the FSM and the diagram, and I don't see a component with this color combination. #6 (Harness 1): There is a blue wire with a white stripe right next to the connectors for the fuse box. I think maybe this one is for the four-way flasher, but I am not certain. #7 (Harness 1): This 2-prong connector is down the console near the choke and seat belt lights. Wires are black with a white stripe and green. #8 (Harness 2): Again, on the branch going down to the fuse box, this time on the other half, there is a blue wire with a female bullet connector. Maybe this connects to the other stray blue with I thought was for the AC, or maybe this is for the heater. I have a feeling these two are for those two components, it's just a question of which is which. #9 & 10 (Harness 2): These last two are also on the fuse-box branch. One is a thicker white wire with a sheath and a female bullet connector (middle wire in the photo below), which should make it easy to identify, but I'm still confused. This one splices to the fat wire that goes from the engine harness to the Ammeter. The last thing I can't figure out is the 2-prong connector is the photo below. It is not in the FSM and I can't find a component in the diagram with this combination. Maybe it goes to the resistor, because I do have an unaccounted for black & white wire that I mentioned earlier on the other fuse-box branch, but they are both paired with other wires (green / red) that are not showing in the diagram for that component, so I don't think so. Anyway, that's what I have to figure out before I can wrap up this inventory. One thing all the Googling I've been doing is teaching me is there are a bunch of little harnesses I might be missing. I already know about the tail light, fuel pump, headlight, turn signal, and step light harnesses, but I just saw a center console harness I haven't seen before on eBay (may be for a 280z ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ). After this one I'll do the fuel pump harnesses and research the others. Then I can move on to deciding which materials to buy to make the new one. Thanks in advance for any help.
  20. Yes, I missed a zero. 🥹 It should be 0.035”. Sorry, eh?
  21. I think larger units tend to intrude into the passenger footwell. I think AC Autosolutions sells a kit that only partially intrudes into the footwell. A friend said he has talked with the guy who runs AC Autosolutions, and the guy is easy to work with. I noticed that on his website, there is some carpeting hanging down from under the dash to hide the evaporator. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/add-on-air-conditioning-heat-and-defrost-air-kit-with-integrated-controls-for-75-76-77-78-280z/
  22. I am in El Cajon, CA just outside San Diego.
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