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  2. This is the image of the M/C sold on ZcarDepot . I contacted wilwood technical support to see what they have to say about master cylinders and disc/drum brakes. His response was absolutely, f/r makes a difference. Page two of the master cylinder data sheet ds439.pdf explains the residual pressure valve and how it's necessary for the rear brakes and not for the front brakes. I'm sold. I think I'll go with the Wilwood explanation. ds439.pdf
  3. I think barrier hoses are used with the R-134 re smaller size mole. that being said new hoses are prob in order regardless if you plan to use different condensor and compressor. If you want to go with just changes to under the hood, I would go with a PF condenser generic that fits the opening in the core support. You may have to relocate the drier as I think most PF have fittings on the same side. Not sure about this...
  4. I have used Valvoline 20/50 racing oil/VR1 in my 5/71 240Z since 1972. All temp ranges (Eastern Wa, Montana, Florida, and New Mexico) with no issues. Of course no winter time driving. Amsoil has Z-Rod which is high-zinc formula.
  5. Today
  6. I have. The AFM worked fine though. Notice that the ratio is still 1.8, just like if you had 180 and 100. I don't really know how the AFM works so can't say if that means anything.
  7. Dan, you are clearing the trail for me. My turn signals don’t work either, I haven’t tried to diagnose the problem yet. I have bigger fish frying right now and the back burner is smoking. I have too many Z task I’m working on….I’m trying to focus 🧘 . I look forward to seeing how your repair work out. I actually get a lot of satisfaction on wiring repair. As a former USAF avionics mechanic they trained me pretty well in the menial task of building and repairing wire bundles. Put on a good podcast and get the soldering iron, multi-meter and shrink wrap ready.
  8. The S20 airboxes have carburettor trumpets/funnels integral with the cover:
  9. Adding a rear anti-sway bar reduces body roll and oversteer. Brings the 240Z closer to neutral handling. On the downside - you lose some of the warnings as you approach the limits of tire adhesion. Body roll and tire squealing are warnings that you are approaching the limit….. so with no warning spin-outs happen suddenly and unexpectedly if you are not experienced and right on top of your game. I think that is where the old saying “you don’t know your limits until you spin out” comes from. You also lose the ability to use trailing throttle oversteer to set the rear of the car out where you want it attacking fast corners. For that reason about 8 or 9 out of 10 240Z’s are road raced without a rear anti-sway bar. A better solution is a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar. It reduces body roll but maintains throttle control for faster corners. FWIW, Carl B.
  10. NISSAN calls them the releasebearing? and i'm surprised that you needed to press them on? I just fit it to the axle and ready.. And btw, i don't have a machinist.. (My engine needed just a clean up.. (after 120000km.)) I only took the head to a machinist to clean it in a special washing machine.
  11. Hi Kats, I'm still having trouble getting a full set together. I now have 3 narrow Kobe Seiko mag wheels and 1 wide wheel, so I need either 1 more wide and 1 more narrow. I did find a wide 1 on YAJ! But was outbid by someone on the East Coast of the US of A. I have a possible lead on another lot but haven't pursued then yet as I'm sure the asking price is outside my budget. So the M-speed ones will give me a complete set and require less special treatment.
  12. That's why I opened up a topic on taxation values. How the hell to they justify these prices? So basically because its not restored and family owned it's worth big bucks?
  13. Oh thank bejeezus! I was having a mild panic attack about having put a lot of effort and money into something that was maybe going to be a boat anchor.
  14. I've learned, have them tested before you leave. They're about half junk for sure but eventually you'll get a good one.
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