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  1. Today
  2. Restored wiper linkage and motor mounting bracket, along with the Honda wiper motor upgrade. A jumper harness was made so that from the firewall forward the wiring would appear stock. Harness also allows for easy replacement of motor if it should ever fail.
  3. The seals would fold over instead of laying flat against the body. Like there wasn't enough space to allow them to lay flat while the doors closed. Ill see if I can make a picture
  4. Dusty Hill's passing reminded me of this song;
  5. Next dumb 2 questions... 1- Did you use a 6 + 3mm rubber washers because there wasn't a 9mm rubber washer? 2- I presume the metal washer is oriented away from the mustache bar?
  6. Auto Panel Solutions is in the UK so you may want to check KlasicFab first.
  7. Took motor to a Bench with battery. Hooked ground up abs tried pos. One worked with a clicking. That was after I put motor back together. Does that mean motor is done??
  8. Yesterday
  9. Pretty car! I didn't spend alot of time in the gallery but I like pretty much everything about this car But that's a lot of money
  10. Not my car unfortunately, pix were grabbed from the internet as examples.
  11. Nice work. I use a sanden 709. Just an FYI. Your drier is backwards. The word “In” is on the sight glass and is pointing towards the firewall. Should be pointing towards the condenser discharge line. If you have 42 degree air on a hot day, and no leaks might just leave it be though. Good luck.
  12. Good suggestion, I did check all of the shifting mechanisms once I removed the transmission housing before disassembling everything. The coupling sleeves and selector forks were aligned and everything clicked into placed pretty smoothly. The forks were held onto the selector rods tightly by the pins. Seemed like the detent balls/springs were doing their job as well. I mentioned in post #31 that I might have found my issue, or one of them. The main shaft adapter plate bearing seemed like it was starting to fail once I removed it from the plate and inspected it further. I didn't really not
  13. I'm of the opinion that your car did not originally have bellows, as they appear to have started for the 1972 model year in 9/71. I have never seen what are called complete assemblies (early type) offered for sale with them. Not saying there is anything wrong with adding them. Here are some measurements that might help with adding them. The travel required for full motion of the choke linkage is 1-1/8" and the compressed length of the bellows must be 3/4" or less. This is based on open and closed measurements I just took from my carbs, and I also checked at the choke lever on a drawing fr
  14. Have a look at this thread. Both my 12/70 and 6/71 cars had this tough, black coating applied to the bare metal before the bodies were sprayed with color. Additionally, if you look very close at the pic showing the transmission tunnel in that thread, you will see a reddish over spray that came through the shifter opening onto the black coating. That overspray... is the first coat of primer that was applied at the factory. You can see it here on the fender I stripped back to bare metal: Over this red "oxide" primer, which was sprayed over the entire top
  15. View Advert Fair price paid for 240z parts I need Hi, I am attempting to restore to a high standard, a 6/1971 240z. Here is my wish list of parts I'd like to track down: original radiator without automatic transmission cooler fittings - need upper and lower tanks to be in good to condition for the radiator to be usable seat recline knobs (not cracked) -- item #6 in the picture here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/seat-slide/type-1-adjuster-seat/6 metal engine fan blade assembly and possibly mounting hard
  16. I can't tell exactly, never taken one apart, but it looks heavily corroded. Check the motor and gear.
  17. I noticed today that after taping up that burned wiring sleeve that the car starts up WAY faster. I don't think I'm nuts, it's pretty noticeable.
  18. HaHa! It steers like a hot knife through butter. Very precise and quick but I feel every everything which is good and bad. I replaced everything on my 240 then bought new Rewinds and performance Hankooks. "The devils is in the details" is very true on the steering.
  19. So if I’m reading this correctly, it’s saying that the cam cover / rocket cover works to suck blow-by gasses at full throttle through the airbox and at idle it’s done via the block breather and PCV valve. So - let’s choke get my own thinking: does this mean that blocking the block on and just using the rocker cover outlet is sufficient if you just plumb it into a tank!? Could that be the logic behind the DSI thinking on blocking them? As the captain pointed out, the bottom and top aren’t sealed from each other. So blocking the bottom one shouldn’t pressurise the crank case. But does blockin
  20. I’m far away, so tough to get them to you quick, but I have a set. Let me know. Another option is to just get a pair of the front bearings from RockAuto, and put those in the rear isolators. That is all the rubber ones really are, just substitution to fill the space in the isolator that the bearing does in the front. It will not cause your rear struts to tend to steer or anything strange. Will add about 1/2 lb of weight
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