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  1. Today
  2. I've never used this service, but i see lots of people on Instagram use http://kyushahouse.com/
  3. Just an FYI, in case you didn’t see them in the Datsun Showroom at the time: That image and another was printed on one half of a Showroom Poster - each image was about 3w’x2h’. So the total size of the Poster was about 3’ wide by 4’ high. The images were printed head to head, or top to top. The Poster was then folded in half - and hung over a support wire that ran wall to wall across the center of the showroom. There were two or maybe three different Posters - that featured the EAS Rally 240Z’s and the Monte Carlo 240Z's.
  4. I got most everything back from powdercoating and started assembling the struts. New bearings, seals, KYB inserts and brake hardware. I ran into two issues. 1. Powdercoater must have dropped one rear strut and dinged the threads for the stut gland nut. Should have left the old gland nuts in the struts. I played with it for a while and a friend was over that was headed to a machine shop to get something done, so I handed it to him to drop off. I hope it can be chased, because I have a lot of time in the rear bearings! 2. On one front strut the caliper was barely scrapping the rotor on the outer edge. I thought that I didnt seat a bearing race completely, so I tore all back apart and races were fine. I tried another caliper, and it is the same, so I am thinking the rotor (Centric) is a little too thick. I noticed the other rotor appears out of round. I may have them turned or try a different brand. It just barely scrapes. Both rotors measure very close to the same dimensions. Weird. I also hooked up with 240 rubber and got some goodies in the mail today. Glad it worked out as his stuff looks nice and only took a couple of weeks once we got the order settled. I saw on BAT where a very nicely restored 73 240 sold for $88,888, so that justifies a few orders for me 🙂.
  5. Thank you for your very kind comment Guy. Cheers
  6. Yesterday
  7. I was at work all day, looks like Steve answered your question. The earlier cars had this long pig tail box and the later 240's had a shorter pig tail. You'll see which one you have I am not 100% sure when that change was made. Same principle though. If your fuse box has melted terminals (common) the up grade is a good idea.
  8. Just acquired a 78 2+2 myself. Have you been able to find a source for 2+2 body panels? I'm looking for rear lower half of the quarter panels myself. I knew 2+2 parts were going to be challenge, but didn't realize how tough.
  9. Greetings, new owner of an old 78 280Z 2+2, my 1st post so be gentle..... I put a hole in the filter screen of the fuel pump when I was trying to take it out to clean. Didn't realize it used a screen. Is there a place to buy replacement/alternate filters screen? Would adding an inline fuel filter such as the Fram G3 in front of input nozzle be good enough? NOTE: I search through this forum and ran across a reference to http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html which was where I realized there was a fuel screen. The image below is from the link.
  10. I did my hood emblem with those. Quarter sides may be different? Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.
  11. I've took advantage of the weak British pound and purchased some leather interior parts from the UK. I installed the door covers this past weekend and will do the center console next with the dash sometime this winter. The leather panel cover looked plain so I added some quilting to it using a sewing machine I barrowed from the library and 1/4 and 1/2 inch foam. The panel looks OK but I need to try and get some wrinkles out with some heat and leather conditioner. I also need to get the door latch straightened out and find a replacement plastic chrome piece for the top of the door pull. (Anyone have a used one they want to part with?)
  12. Evaporator Bracket no. 3: This one was a MF to get done, and I’m still not 100% happy with it. I would change a couple of things about it if I were to do it again, but I already have too much time invested and it’s doing the job well enough. Overall, I think this series of brackets is the right approach vs using the flat bits they provide, but the geometry is ever so slightly off on all three of them due to minor differences between the real evaporator and the mock-up. don’t get me wrong, the mock-up made it way easier, but I wish I had a CNC machine so I could take the next step and make these in aluminum and tweak the angles to fix the errors. The evaporator is a few degrees off from square on the yaw axis, which is why it was hitting the glovebox. It could also stand to move forward about 1cm and down the same amount. Not bad for hand made and rough measurements, though. You can see where the original bracket they provided with the mock-up evaporator was scratching the paint. The one of the actual evaporator is just as in the way, so I deleted that entirely. It is unnecessarily tall.
  13. You might be disagreeing about two different situations/cases. In Mr. Uemura’s book he tells us why the Datsun 240Z’s were not undercoated at the factory as regular production began, and that the Dealers were advised to undercoat the 240Z's on Delivery. https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=Datsun+240Z By the 1972 model year (and perhaps some time before) Nissan was using more galvanized sheet metal in the floors, firewalls and hood bracing. So you have to be specific about which model years you are talking about when it comes to undercoatings/paint etc. Big Difference between 70/71 and 72/73. 72/73's were undercoated at the factory. To get primer/paint to stick to galvanized sheetmetal, the sheetmetal had to neutralized (cleaned/cleared of zinc hydroxide) in order to get the primers to adhere to the metal. Nonetheless over longer periods of time the primers/paint would start to peel off as the galvanized metal continued to oxidize under it. If you see a lot of 72/73 240Z’s that haven’t already been repainted etc - you will usually see the paint peeling off - on the firewall and front hood braces. When the original primer peels off the metal, it takes the paint with it. So you see bare usually grayed bare metal. When you see the factory applied undercoating peel or flake off exposing bare metal - it is because the primer/paint under the undercoating is peeling off the galvanized metal - not because the undercoating was applied directly to the metal.
  14. I was trying Captain and you saved me, a lot of explaining.
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