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  2. AK260

    COVID-19

    My new shopping look! Especially when someone coughs!!!!
  3. Today
  4. Thanks. That's pretty much along the lines of the high-build products I mentioned and what I'll end up trying. It will take several passes to deal with some of the rust pitting in the TS reflectors.
  5. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/apr/08/lockdown-keeps-casualty-figure-low-as-italian-bridge-collapses
  6. Seeking the after market throttle shaft like the the one on my 1973z My 1970 shaft is dead in arrival loose cannot sinchro the carbs . I have no clue who offered the fine replacement! It is tight easy adjust . Maybe someone has what they would recommend doing. Using another used shaft.
  7. I initially bought M8 wing nuts, but they are quite a bit bigger than the M6 which are pretty much identical to the OEM wings (other than the silver zinc finish). I can these as an option however, as they would be much easier to tighten and loosen than the stock size wing nuts. I must be spending too much time with my Grand daughter and the Disney+ movies. All I see is
  8. Okay. As long as it's not hurting anything, I'll leave it alone for now and eventually fix it back to stock. It has around 120k miles on it. And yeah ik i wasted money haha. Cuz with the breather blocked off on the block, now I have to block the pcv too cuz it's just sucking in air. One more thing, I've attached a screenshot from another forum... Is this accurate? Like I said, I thought it was one or the other.. Kinda thinking that having two openings is gonna mess up the idle if it idles at all.
  9. 1. (DCOE and SU) Oil or grease paper gaskets. They last longer, seal better, and do not stick or tear when separating during future maintenance. 2. (DCOE) If you have the optional cold weather starter circuit on your carbs, the plungers that seal the openings to the throat can corrode and/or seal poorly. The trick is to remove the plunger, apply some valve grinding compound to its sealing tip area then use long needle nose pliers to seat it in place and to rotate it to lap a perfect seal. Be sure to flush out the compound after this work.
  10. Agree with what was said above. That book will walk you completely through tear down then rebuild yourself. There's a few things you have to take to a machine shop and get done but I got out cheap there, about $200 if I remember right. Take tons of pictures and write everything down you may not be sure about. A roll of cheap painters tape was a big help for me on the connections, wiring and plug-ins. You can do both sides with a piece of tape then add 1 & 1 or A & A. Get a box of quart size zip-locs for all the nuts and bolts then write what it is on a piece of paper then drop it inside the bag. I wrote on the outside with a Sharpie, bad idea as it smeared off. A gallon of lacquer thinner and some small brass wire brushes for cleaning from your local hardware store is about as cheap as you'll find. Cheap spray on oven cleaning foam also works good. It's like $.99 at walmart. A few 5 gallon buckets will be useful too. All 6 pistons fit perfect in the bottom for me, poured about 2 inches of lacquer thinner in there and they came out like new. Read, read and read. You'll see something helpful every time, have fun young man! Here's a days worth... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=ueSNXvXSLrCwytMPxNeXiA0&q=l28+rebuild+parts+list+classiczcars.com&oq=l28+rebuild+parts+list+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQA0oJCBcSBTEyLTc1SgkIGBIFMTItMTNQqKsBWP7KAWDq1gFoAHAAeACAAWSIAbsHkgEEMTIuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwi1k876idnoAhUwmHIEHcTrBdEQ4dUDCAw&uact=5
  11. Wow, that is Gunther Toody (Joe E Ross) from "Car 54 Where Are You?"!! He and Fred McGynne (Herman Munster on The Munsters) were police partners on that show! Okay, I digress ...
  12. And it seems somehow my previous input was overlooked as well. In response to your request, I posted a bunch of ways people have successfully installed headlight relays. So in case something went wrong with the previous message and the info did not come through on your screen, here they are again. Here's hoping whatever went wrong with the message last time works this time: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50416-75-280z-headlight-relay-upgrade/ http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/HeadlightRelays/JudkinsRelay.htm https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91938-headlight-relay-for-260-280/ http://www.zhome.com/DaveRelay/DaveBuild/DaveInstruction.htm https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60198-240z-led-headlight-wiring/ http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
  13. Yes, I was also happy to find that table with available standard thicknesses from the period. With enough volume and modern methods manufacturers today definitely have more options. I plan to remove my seats on the long weekend so I will have better access to measure again. I will report back with my findings.
  14. So I’ve made some good progress rebuilding this distributor. The Atlanticz rebuild instructions are fantastic. So I have carcasses and parts from 3.5 distributors (One I cannibalized in the yard because it was frozen to the front cover) I have 3 vacuum advance assemblies. I bench tested them and 2 of 3 were bad. The good one looks rough...very rusty but it holds vac pressure and the plunger moves and holds. I’m actually building 2 distributors, one a a primary and the other as a back up. I went online to hunt down a new vacuum advance. Of course they’re no longer in stock anywhere. The part number is 22301-p7900 or 7901. I did find some that look identical, Stanza and 200sx. Parts numbers are different, but part looks exactly the same, not sure if those would work, look at links below. first eBay link is titles 22301-p7901 but on the phone it has a different part number on the box 22301-D2100 https://www.ebay.com/p/1173306983 Another website says I can use a Standard Motor Product part VC351. See this link, at the bottom is talks about different Nissan Vaccum advances compatibility with Standard Brand. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Late-model_Vacuum_Advance What do you guys think?
  15. Attention - Le Mans Classic. Because of the cotinued propagation of the coronavirus, the (correct in my view) decision has been made to put back this event to 2021, July 1, 2, 3 + 4 ! This gives you the opportunity to plan ahead and join us is wished to this most awesome event in the Classic car calender. An incredible blend of static displays, club stands and full-time classic car track action throughout the night. Racing is but 24hrs from Saturday afternoon, just like the real thing but the event is open from Thursday morning ‘til Sunday evening. Looking positively, this now gives everyone a chance to book local accomodation, finish their cars and…I’m pushing for more Club Datsun track-sessions for the Friday morning (fingers crossed). If already booked for this year, please confirm asap that you intend to keep your booking for 2021 OR wish a reimbursement of 85% (we need 5% over and above Peter Autos’ 10%) to cover our club fees and administration). Those wishing for a reimbursement and wanting to join us in 2021 will need to re-book through me and although I can confirm space on the stand, camping spaces and track sessions might be at risk. I am at your disposition for further information (if I have it) and any questions. Best regards and good health to you and for your families. Sean https://peterauto.peter.fr/wp-content/uploads/lmc-concurrents-competitors.pdf https://peterauto.peter.fr/wp-content/uploads/lmc-spa-gpao-clubs.pdf
  16. A few years ago Toyota UK created some very cool GT86es to commemorate the company’s 50th anniversary in the United Kingdom. While slapping a wrap and putting some wheels on an otherwise stock car can be a half-assed way for … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  17. I read your comments and replies to the mods you made, and points to be lost. I have no intention of going to Branson or any serious show. I'[m just interested to bring it up the standard you have set, and enjoy it as long as possible. I printed all your photos on 11 x 17 for reference. The body is in good shape except for rust around the windshield and one corner of the hatch. It used to be just covered, but now its inside a Harbor Freight tent. My valve cover is polished, the transmission was overhauled and had them clear coat it, and fuel rail looks like gold, so I'm loosing points already. As I did with the plane, I'm trying to as much work myself as possible, but age is creeping up. Thank you for all your insightful comments.
  18. Never under estimate the power of well applied bondo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Cost north of $60K? More than that. Yep. I’m embarrassed with the final numbers, but it sure looks like showroom again, even the underside is awesome. Approved by my wife!
  20. The person who started this thread hasn't been back to this site since November 2010 according to his profile.
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