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  1. Past hour
  2. The timing set is "Engine Pro" brand. I think it will be fine and I'll chalk it up as a learning experience of what to ask about next time before ordering. I HATE the thought of a master link in the timing chain! While the cam gear didn't have the notches it did have the indents labeled 1,2,3 so I do feel confident that it is properly timed. Just got the Z last summer, I've always liked to tinker with stuff but never really got much past basic maintenance items and bolt on accessories. I finally am in a place in life where I have the means and garage to really tear into an engine. When I was younger the problem was that whatever I was working on I typically had to be able to drive it to work the next day! I'm not a mechanic by trade but I have spent the last 26 years around golf course maintenance equipment, maintaining reel mowers to cut perfectly at .100" is a pretty delicate undertaking. During my first job after college I worked with a great mechanic on taking 8 old Toro mowers and combining them to get 5 of them to operate and function properly. He taught me a lot about laying things out, cleaning up all the parts and how to assemble things. In a nutshell I know just enough to be dangerous but thanks to some great books, this forum and no real deadline for completion I have been able to deal with the challenges that pop up on a project like this. Thanks again for your assistance, I'd like to buy you a beer someday.
  3. Today
  4. Now you can trouble shoot that, it could also be the thermotime switch, less likely as it tends to fail off, but easy to find out. try hooking up the CSV to a 12v source, use some clip leads to it and supply a 12v (unplug the csv from the wire harness, connect the 12 directly to the csv, never the harness) it should "click". if not its prob stuck, you maybe able to get some carb cleaner into it and try cycling it a lot with the outside source. Not a bad idea to run some good fuel injector cleaner with your next tank full of gas. I thought about it more, the thermotime ONLY gets 12v during the crank so even if it was stuck on, the only thing that would happen is the injector would fire regardless of temp and would fire as long as you held the ign in the "start" position. I don't think that would allow enough time for the flooding you are having. So pretty much has to be the injector.
  5. I have been putting a list together of gearbox bearings I could need (for FS5C71B). It looks like the FS5W71B, FS5C71B and FS5C71A and the F4W71B all share nearly all the same Nissan part numbers give or take (e.g. 4 speed no bearings on overdrive). My question, or point me in the direction of a previous post, is what are the part numbers for the bearing in there generic form, eg. Timken 6205? There are a few gearbox rebuild threads, but I haven't seen any bearing info. Thanks Ian
  6. Will you be running fender liners in the front?
  7. Thank you Whee! Will pull it up and take a read. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. That's because that model of air dam from Kameri is designed to mount under the stock chin valence but on this car the chin valence is missing and he has attached it too high up. This is one I bought a few yrs ago but haven't used yet.
  9. The local brand..ribbed and unshrinkable....two Seinfeld episodes:
  10. heyitsrama


    Hey @silentbug I think there are already people trying to help you out in the thread you posted earlier; Try to keep your issues contained to one thread so people can see what you have tried, its easier to get help that way. Often when people start opening up multiple threads, and DONT follow the instructions/discussions that are being held within the topics they start, the thread dies out and people stop posting help. I think ZedHead and Steve were walking you through some stuff to test out, I would listen to what they have to say, they are very well informed individuals and have helped lots of people get their 280z fuel injection system figured out, they are not wasting your time and their time trying to help. You will need a multimeter to figure out the EFI system, and YES its possible that the water temp sensor is messing with the system. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=multimeter&qid=1611644234&sr=8-5
  11. if it looks like this, maybe you should take it to the Vet. 😁
  12. That part affects is the axial end play of the distributor shaft in the housing. If you switch over to a different piece (whether that is plastic or metal), you should check the end play and adjust the gap filling washers accordingly if necessary.
  13. Yesterday
  14. It depends on the fuel being used and the camshaft and how you plan to drive it. Best to stay away from highest.
  15. that one is pretty small that lowes sells ,so that will be this weeks little project. I am still leaning on the rear floor in front of the shock towers right between the seats for placement. I would think that in case of a fire quick access is best.
  16. Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. View Advert 1978 Datsun 280z with l28ET P90/F54 Year: 1978 Model: 280z Modified Engine: 2.8 L L28ET (P90/F54) Trans: manual Color: (int/ext) Black / Black Mileage: 925 on rebuilt engine Asking price: $27,000.00 / obo Name: Christine Siepka Phone: Email: 280zkuro@gmail.com City/State/Country: Tempe, AZ Description: Modified 1978 Datsun 280z restomod with fully rebuilt engine and many custom upgrades. Link to google doc with more information and photo gallery can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1dlGVNaq8oegMuRqqohsDcgE65RQ_Bn0oZV-df8W7DGo Please contact me at the above email address with any questions or requests for additional information. Advertiser Kuro Date 01/25/2021 Price $27,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
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