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  2. Oh the glamour! Such fun! [emoji58] Let this be over soon ... I have too much OCD.
  3. Today
  4. Kats, Could it be any one of these??
  5. I thought the same thing when I read that. Sometimes it's nice to let the car do the work. Too bad the autos don't have a bench seat. No offense. A bench seat has its advantages...
  6. You can also take this time to measure piston deck height. Put a straight edge on the deck, turn the crank until the piston rests on the straight edge, zero the indicator and go all the way up. Place the indicator along the wrist pin and the straight edge intersecting the wrist pin.
  7. Yesterday
  8. 70 and early 71 are D. The rest up until 77 had Zs. Iirc The ones referred to as series 1. The 69 was D I suppose. I'm not familiar with the early cars.
  9. Let me play! If idle adjustment does nothing I'd say you have a vacuum leak. Borrow a gauge from a local parts chain and tell us the numbers.
  10. Finally getting around to installing the new dash. Removal went easy, the cluster of connectors on the pass side and a few singles on the driver side. those on the driver side were removed while the dash was being pulled off, the cluster were undone before the removal process. I also removed the steering wheel all the plastic parts, and the turn signal/combo switch just leaving the bare steering shaft and the ign cylinder. That had those silly tamper proof bolts that I did not want to fuss with. removed the console finisher and the floor console of course. I removed the gauges tack and speedo, the vents the hoses. it was a good time to tidy up the connections as they were quite loose due to the loss of the foam that surrounds the hard plastic junctions. I wrapped some electrical tape around the plastic junction ends to increase the OD so the hoses would fit nice and tight. After I sorted the HVAC I moved on to the actual dash install. some observations: On mine the hard point above the cig lighter was misaligned, I ended up drilling my own hole for that sheet metal screw. Careful so as not to punch thru the das pad. carefully cut out the hole for the cig lighter and the two holes for the dimmer pot and trip meter setting. The instrument cluster fit well for the speedo and the tach, the other gauges required a lot of finesse to make sure they were set in enough to make sure there were no gaps around the bezel. It seems to me this could be a bit deeper to allow for a less precise fit being required. I ended up adding some foam tape the backs of the straps that hold the gauges in place, as is the were just a bit too far forward for the straps to hold them tight up to the dash. A good bump and I suspect they could jar loose leaving a gap from the bezel to the dash. Not a show stopper just something to make sure you have secure so it does not happen. Everything installed I moved on to the glove box. this is something that should be addressed. The flap of material around the opening is too thick. On my OE dash the flap of material is JUST the plastic covering. On the V dash its got about 3/32 of foam under the dash material That is just enough to keep the small screws that go around the perimeter from engaging the clip on retainers that fit on the metal dash. I ended up digging out the foam with a small screw driver to thin this out. I should have done this before starting the process with the dash off the metal frame. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.... just look at your OE dash and make sure the glove box area is the same. Overall the fit and finish are very good. I presume as good as the OE but for the glove box mentioned and the cig lighter metal hard point being misaligned. I caught the cig lighter and corrected before installing the dash. I thought I could get away with the glove box, but ended up fixing that after all was installed. I have the dash mostly back installed, just have to go around and tighten up the 10mm bolts around the edges, it was a bit of a struggle, my wife helped with the wires on the driver side, after a failed 1st try, we got it. Had to get the dash close enough to connect the wires and still install with out tugging it loose. Another warning you maybe tempted to remove the mount that fits under the AC control panel, it was in the way making things hard. I removed it but failed to consider how I would struggle with reinstalling it after the dash was in. the very control panel that I was trying to avoid made it very hard to get the mount back installed. I am making some videos, not so much of the process as that would be nearly impossible to do by myself, but stages of completion will post up later.
  11. View Advert "78 280 Z FOR SALE This is rust free( to the best of my knowledge and what two mechanics have said), partially restored, slightly modified, car that needs cometic and interior work to make it outstanding. Car was purchased as HS grad gift for son in 2002...he went to went to garage. It has been stored since then til 2013 when an attempt to get it back on road was made...ran but would not pull itself up a hill...mechanic was not a Datsun guy, but at that time new injectors, new fuel pump, wires, plugs, filters, hoses etc were installed and car was parked inside. In Dec 2019 took to a different mechanic...tank cleaned and sealed, low temp sensor replaced, sending unit replaced, valves adjusted...runs really good now. See my posts for more info and pics. Since photos were taken four new tires, new belts, coolant hoses and flush. Brakes are like new as well as lines. All suspension work was done by previous owner:struts, control arms, bushings, oversized stabilizer bars, tie rod ends, etc. Also headers and a larger exhaust pipe were installed. Has new battery too. Interior work needs to be done, and yes the dash is cracked. Needs rubber replacement. This car has not seen one drop of rain the entire time of my ownership. It comes with a rough "78 parts car. It is a 5 speed conversion. Parts car has the orig 4 speed. My health issues (back) prevent me from continuing to work on car...deserves to be in the hands of a more able and more knowledgeable enthusiast. Feel free to ask questions as I'm sure I've forgotten things. Cars are in western NC. Advertiser zeenubee Date 01/21/2020 Price $12,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280 Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  
  12. Thanks All, New SS rear flex brake lines and emergency brake mounts (for the Maxima caliper) are on the way. Pissed I'm paying for this work twice. Need to replace the rear hard SS lines going to the frame mount. Previous caretaker of the car used vise grips on the fitting (left and right). Are the only options to buy a complete set of SS hard lines ($350.00) or make them? Any suppliers that sell the SS hard lines piece by piece? 73 240Z Making option: what dia SS line is needed and what is the flare fitting tread size and pitch? Thanks again.
  13. There were several significant classics and performance cars that crossed the auction block at the BH Auctions last week, but there is one more machine worth mentioning. The LM07 Toyota Group C race car wasn’t particularly successful, but it kicked … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
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