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  2. I am going from memory, but I seem to remember that the sending unit is keyed so it will only go in one way. also, no need to bend the float arm. If you look closely at the float arm pivot point, you will find a set screw which allows you to adjust the travel of the float. hope this helps. Dan
  3. Also the float runs horizontal like the photo. Kinda tricky getting it in but not too bad. Good luck!
  4. Right side up is when the arm raises up. When it's all the way down you're on empty. If you still have the old one lay them side by side. You may need to bend the new one to match. I didn't and now a quarter tank on the gauge is empty inside the tank.
  5. Hi everyone , I am a new member here. Just purchased a 1974 260 that's spent 20+ years in the Texas hill country out in a field. Rats chewed through many of the harness, but I have been able to in most part patch it together, however I've run into a snag with whatever this mystery relay is over on the driver's side by the radiator. The plug on the relay side has a yellow, blue/red ,black/yellow, yellow/black,solid black, and light green/black colored wires. On the harness side of the plug most of the wires make sense , apart from 3 wires that are black/ white of the same gauge . It's really a guessing game to where these wires go without knowing what this relay is. Any insights ? I've looked at a 260 diagram, but it looks completely wrong. Any ideas? This car has A/C as well as all of the factory interlock system
  6. Today
  7. Been looking fo solid pillar emblems on Yahoo! Auctions Japan. Have seen a few sets, but they are in bad shape. Have a line on reproductions.
  8. I would like one so I can put this one away. Is that your Z432?
  9. I have a Z432R rear view mirror if you need one.
  10. Lol.... I'm not kidding, these are atrocious! I literally dodge and weave all over town... if you don't, prepare to pop tires and bend rims!! (and the city will NOT pay to fix your car...) Imagine a Z going over that road... not gonna happen. We get bad potholes every year, but this year was real bad with the winter etc. Supposedly our potholes are so bad because we have a high number of freeze/thaw days each year, something like 40 days. But it would be nice if they could get to fixing some of these... I literally caught some air the other day on a stretch of road that barely qualifies, and should be closed!
  11. Looking at this picture: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-sending-units/products/fuel-tank-sending-unit-oem-240z-260z-70-74 Is this sending unit right side up? I took mine out when I removed the tank for cleaning/coating and cannot remember which way the unit goes. I need to learn to take more pictures when I take things apart. Jeff
  12. Carl...Thanks...! I am going to eliminate the vents all together when I have a shop clean the tank. I was thinking of having the outside waterjet blasted and powdercoated. Any thoughts...? Thanks again...Ryals 1973 240-Z 115 Blue / White interior
  13. WD-40 is, in my opinion, essentially useless as a lubricant. It is designed with a very low viscosity so that it flows into holes and openings. Unfortunately, it has minimal effectiveness as a long-term lubricant. It is intended for what I would call, 'household' applications (i.e. good for house door hinges, not so good for automotive work). There are better spray lubes conveniently available. However... I am skeptical that you will be able to get the tip of the spray wand ('straw') to point in the direction needed to properly lubricate the regulator spring. You are welcome to try, but I think you're just going to get spray lube everywhere but where you want it. The regulator is best dealt with after it's been removed from the inside of the door. The main items that need oil are centre pivot pin for the arms (just like a pair of scissors), the pivot shafts for the nylon roller wheels (the ones located at the ends of the regulator arms), and the centre pivot pin for the hand-crank gear. Everything else should be greased (not oiled). Use synthetic grease, not mineral-based. Grease goes on all of the gears. It also goes in the front and rear guide channels. For the big coil spring, I would use spray-on lithium grease (available at hardware or automotive parts stores). The only way to properly apply grease and oil is to take the door apart. THINK CAREFULLY ABOUT WHETHER YOU WANT TO ATTEMPT THIS. Are you confident that you will be able to re-assemble the parts successfully? Are you really sure that the parts desperately need lubrication? IF YOU FIND YOU ARE UNABLE TO PUT THE DOOR BACK TOGETHER, YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO DRIVE THE CAR. Don't make this discovery after you've taken the door apart. Disassembling and re-assembling the door is not rocket science. However, it takes care, patience, and attention to detail. If you lack these, don't try it. In my experience, it's the guide channels that are most likely to have lubrication issues. The original grease tends to turn to hardened crud over the years. In general, I think that lubricating the front guide channel is the item that will give you the greatest results. You can probably get some spray lithium grease into that channel using a long (12" or longer) flexible spray wand. Lower the window all the way. Look down the front of the window slot. After you're sure that you have identified the top of the front guide channel, you will have a target for the spray grease. DON'T OVER-DO IT!. Some of the overspray is going to go on the window glass and that will muck up the felt window channel guides. You cannot grease the rear guide channels without taking the door apart. Other members may have additional or better suggestions. Wait a couple of days before you decide what you want to do.
  14. Yikes! That's quite a price for an emblem in such bad condition!
  15. Thanks guys, all great insights. I did look at chokes before but I haven't recently - so I will undo the cables and make sure the jets are returning fully. John, I will try what you suggested before doing that. Will also get vac gauge out and let you know of any leaks. Next up, I need to get these bad boys on and head for a RR tune again. But I do want to find the root cause of this annoyance first!
  16. Holy moly, that's as bad as I've seen. I will never complain again about our roads.
  17. @240Ziggy, does he have an asking price? You may want to edit the classified ad with a price so people know where to start. Edit: Just saw you had this in the description, apologies. I updated the advert. Mike
  18. Time Left: 2 months and 28 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I'm helping a friend sell his 1978 modified 280Z. The owner had it over 20 years ago and was in rust free condition before even doing the restoration. He spent ridiculous money on it and he understands his lost. He is now at age of 64, he is no longer able to drive this car due to health reason. Here are some of the details done to the car I was given by the shop who worked on the mechanicals and upgrades. The engine is a L28 3.1L TD04 Turbo water methanol multi port injectors, approx. 400HP SDS Engine Management System. 6 speed Getrag Corvette manual transmission. R200 4:11 Nismo LSD. 13" front and rear Vicknell disk brakes 4 pistons calipers. Custom 3" exhaust with stainless steel muffler. Custom adjustable coil over suspensions. 17" Eagle Alloys wheels with Toyo Proxes 4 Plus 245/40R/17. Custom interior. Power sunroof. Power locks, Security Systems. Custom Stereo with power amps subwoofer. Clean straight body and multi layers of base/clear coat paint job. This car neds a new home. Owner is asking for 30k CAD around 24k USD or entertain him an offer and will let you know. Car is located in Toronto, ON Canada. Thank you.


    Toronto, Ontario - CA

  19. Hi Tirnipgreen: The Gasoline Vapor Recovery System (GVRS) was required for cars manufactured in 1969 and early 70 only in California. Because California was a very large Sports Car Market most of the cars sent to North America get it as standard equipment. By late 1970 it was added to the Federal EPA Emissions Standards/Regulations. Yes, you can eliminate the entire system fairly easily. Here is a summary of much discussion. This shows how to make the 180 degree turn on the one remaining Vent Line - although another person just had that vent tube re-positioned when the gas tank was out. Either way works.. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm hope that helps, BTW - if you have the SU's I'd stick with them. If you go Webers - go triple side drafts. Carl B.
  20. I want original. I'm learning some things the hard way.
  21. Well just an update; Went ahead and bought a Glass Pack from Jegs for under $20. Had to use various exhaust fittings/clamps to get it in place (the hardware cost more than the glasspack....). Only drove it once last fall after the glass pack, but it seemed fine, maybe a little bit of exhaust leak, but that could be from the broken manifold stud as well... Once these potholes are fixed, the Z is ready for some cruising! Example of our road conditions this year (worst I've ever seen, just bent my DD S10 rim on Saturday on one.... the Z would get high centered in some of these no joke!) They actually closed a mile stretch of road cuz it was so bad. Some guy took this video as well https://geekologie.com/2019/03/holy-smokes-omaha-nebraska-road-thats-mo.php?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+geekologie%2FiShm+(Geekologie+-+Gadgets%2C+Gizmos%2C+and+Awesome)
  22. Thanks to both of you for chiming in. I am a Triumph guy venturing in to new territory with this Z project. EPA BS killed British Leyland as things got so complicated fuel system-wise. I am very familiar with SU's from my TR world, I bought a bunch of Z parts and a new set of Webers was included in the lot. I have round tops to fall back on...just wanted to see what the downdrafts would do. The tank issues with respect to venting are the big thing for me. Seems like the time to eliminate what I can as no EPA numb-nut is going to be knocking at my door asking to inspect the car. And if that expansion tank can be eliminated, I will put it on the shelf with the flat tops...! I am really enjoying working on the 240...a little tired of the same old British rut. Although I will never sell my TR4...!
  23. Yes - that one would have been far less - as it's not OEM and has different looking caps... but still somewhat the same function and over-all appearance
  24. Yes - I thought the Ad was deceptive - that's why I mentioned it. OEM Original Equipment Manufacturer - simply means it was sourced from the OEM, but that doesn't mean the part is the date correct, original part. It is a "replacement part" - even Nissan will send you a newer style, or new and improved replacement for the original Part if the original is no longer available. If there actually is no problem caused by swapping the reservoirs - you are golden. If you have to re-bend the brake lines it is a PIA.. but doable.
  25. Seems like there was a recent thread about removing the expansion tank and all but one of the vents on the tank. Seems like @Carl Beck gave some direction on doing this and still keep the tank properly vented. The vent on the tank that was kept was also turned 180 degrees to eliminate the need for the horseshoe bend in the vent line. Hopefully Carl will jump in here and either enlighten the thread or tell me I just dreamed this up!
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