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  2. Patcon

    Idle dying when warm

    My question wasn't about sitting between the test, but whether the engine sat for a number of years before you got it. Some times the rings get stuck from sitting and can give low numbers like this. Doing a dry then a wet test can show this too.
  3. Patcon

    WTB SHEET METAL PANELS 240Z

    I guess my hope for an NOS would be good fit to the chassis and very little filler. After that I don't know that anyone other than a really skilled body man could tell whether a panel was NOS or off a donor. As for cost, if I am building a $70k+ pristine low number car and a NOS quarter is what I need, then I pay-to-play. I could see paying 3K if it's something I really need. Like I said I can't see paying that over a good SouthWest donor. Of course I don't own any of the really special cars.
  4. Today
  5. wheee!

    WTB SHEET METAL PANELS 240Z

    NOS don’t necessarily make the car “better”, but maybe more original. $1500 would be my breaking point on a quarter panel even on a “special” car...
  6. Mark Maras

    Idle dying when warm

    Time to adjust the valves and hope the compression improves on all of them. Be sure the throttle is wide open when conducting the tests.
  7. Zed Head

    Idle dying when warm

    Sounds like you're doing everything right. Your engine is doing things wrong though. I'd pop the valve cover and check the valve train. As Patcon suggested, valve lash set wrong can affect cylinder pressures. Although yours are way off for just a simple lash adjustment. If you're lucky you'll find a rocker arm lock nut or two that is loose, causing the valves to open only partially. If you're unlucky you'll find some damaged cam lobes. Getting a new cam and rocker arms installed and broken in without damaging the cam lobes can be difficult on these engines.
  8. Mike mcdade

    resurrecting a 1977 280Z

    New fuel pump installed. Had to modify the pump mount. At any rate we bypassed the fuel dampener.
  9. Geoff's 240z

    Idle dying when warm

    I performed the same method for all cylinders, and double checked the front two cylinders given the variance. I was more focused on the variance than the actual values given that I don't know the history of the gauge itself. Took the coil wire off, all plugs out, screwed compression gauge in as tight as possible by hand. No extension used. Full throttle and ignition for about 3-4 seconds for each cylinder. No, the engine did not sit for an extended period of time after warm. Just long enough for me to do the procedures above. I have a '79 280zx distributor. I gapped the plugs to .044, as I have a 280z bottom end. Interestingly, the NGK 11's came out of the box all gapped at .040. Sound like anything else I'm doing wrong?
  10. Patcon

    Idle dying when warm

    Also did this engine sit for an extended period of time. I don't recall if that has been mentioned or not. Those numbers aren't good. You need to double check those numbers and like Zed said make sure you do each cylinder exactly the same way. I don't really care about cold and warm. What I want to know is dry or wet. After you do the initial test squirt a little motor oil in each cylinder. If the numbers come up then it's a ring issue. If they don't its generally a head issue. I would also adjust the valves before I did another test
  11. That one is beyond restoration. You can find some good used ones or buy the Asian reproductions. Repros are still better than shorted lights
  12. Patcon

    Datsun 240Z Shim doors

    Yes Mario I would use some galvanized steel in the thickness you need then prime or plate them before use
  13. Another one on the rear really rusted. Ive seen the replicas but i dont rely on thailand quality. Any other options or restoring these ones?
  14. Zed Head

    Idle dying when warm

    Those are terrible. Are you positive that you had a good seal on the tester and the pressures are correct? You didn't use the extension on #1 and #2 then take it off for the others did you? The extension/adapter will give a much lower reading because it adds volume. What is your ignition system? Distributor and ignition module. Your plug gaps seem pretty wide for a points system.
  15. Geoff's 240z

    Idle dying when warm

    Update on the continued saga... Started out today with compression test (thanks O'Reilly for lending the tool) and got bad news. Results as follows: Tested Cold/Warm 60 / 70 60 / 70 100 / 120 110 / 115 90 / 100 115 / 115 So now we have cylinders 1 & 2 to worry about. What's odd is that cylinders 4,5,6 are the ones making noise when I disable the front carb as posted in the video above. Also checked for vacuum leaks with brake cleaner and did not discover anything. Put in new plugs, results in the picture below. Seems like we're doing better on the color when compared to before, cylinders 6-1 as you look top to bottom. Good news is that the idle seems to be holding now after the continued carb tuning. I'll drive again this afternoon to confirm this is the case. Located in Laguna Niguel, CA for those local or who want to visit.
  16. Mark Maras

    ZCON 2018 Roll Call

    Among the fondest memories, I have from ZCON, was the drive to and from Saturday's show at Coolray Stadium. Jai hands me the keys to RedBird and says, "I'm going to ride with Bill (her son) and you and Kathy follow us to the show". Since it has been a good number of years since I had been back in a Z and never driven a 280, I jumped at the chance. The adventure started crossing lanes of traffic to get to I-85. Quickly discovered that RB's turn signals were intermittent. Hoping that modern drivers would recognize archaic hand signals, I found that Southern Hospitality was also in effect on the roads. Being in a beautiful bright red 280 probably helped. We managed to stay behind Bill but as we started down the ramp onto I-85 he takes off like he's being shot at. As the smile starts to spread across my face I shift into 3rd and then 4th gear and put the gas pedal to the floor just to keep up with Bill and Jai. Soon I think, OK, time for 5th gear. Slip it into neutral over to the right and up. Goes in easily, I let out the clutch and immediately realize that it was in 3rd and also realize this is a 4 speed. (trans is in excellent condition, btw, but could use some shifter bushings) Pull it back into 4th. As we gracefully weave our way through the slower traffic I look down and realize we're going 90 mph. Ah, this feels good. As I settle back in the seat the memories and feelings of driving a Z at speed come flooding back in a huge wave. Does Bill realize that the I-85 signs aren't speed limit signs? Who cares, I'm back in the 1970's when I was was bulletproof and much like back then, I just want to go faster. Much too soon we safely pull into Coolray Field and find a parking spot. When Bill gets out of his Xterra he has the biggest $hit eatin' grin on his face I've ever seen. Come to think of it, it probably matched the one on my face. After thanking him for the experience, we got to know each other better. He wants a 510 for the street and occasional track use. The apple didn't fall far from the tree. Good work Jai. The other great memories are of meeting Y'all and putting faces with names. Being able to talk with Matsuo-san, Cliff coming down for the day and providing transportation for us (thanks Cliff) and the warmth and hospitality of everyone we met in and around Atlanta. We wish we had more time to bench race with the other members but we're grateful for the memories we have. Thanks to all.
  17. wheee!

    Where to go with this rusthole

    Try using the EZ strip grinder wheels. They are plastic, don’t build heat and do a great job.
  18. Datsunbat

    Datsun 240Z Shim doors

    OK Patcon, so I guess I'll use normal metal, the same as the body car? Only with different tchickness. Correct? Regards Mário
  19. Patcon

    Where to go with this rusthole

    If you keep a fan running you should be fine. It doesn't stink after it's neutralized.
  20. heyitsrama

    Idle dying when warm

    Hey Geoff what area do you live in, maybe someone from the club can lend a hand? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  21. Jughead

    Where to go with this rusthole

    Thanks Elliott000 - Keep up the good work and thanks for the inspiration
  22. Patcon

    Datsun 240Z Shim doors

    BTW don't use aluminum as spacers! The dissimilar metals causes other issues. I agree, your best bet is to make some. I like originality too, but sometimes it's not worth the effort. The older I get, enjoying the car on the road becomes the priority
  23. Patcon

    WTB SHEET METAL PANELS 240Z

    I would think NOS quarters are worth North of $2000 each side and I could get a good rear clip for probably $1500, which gives you both sides. It seems sort of silly to try to get NOS unless you have the special car that needs them (ie #10, 12, 26 etc) since the rest of the car has 50 years of wear and tear and surface rust. A good clean rear clip would accomplish the same thing and reserve very special parts for very special cars. Now if you're doing a very special car, speak up, somebody might be willing to part with them if your project is more special than theirs.
  24. Never a deal like this near me in Canada... I would buy it if it was local.
  25. Good deal on an awesome car.
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