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  2. Thinking I can use something like this and make a straight connect. Just need to figure out size.
  3. Be careful with that. There have been many different substances substituted for R12 and R134, many of which are flammable or potentially explosive. I've converted three cars from R12 to R134 and all i did was change drier, screen (orifice valve) in the AC tubing, and install a compressor with seals set up for 134. In the case of a Z or ZX, that would probably mean having a compressor rebuilt to your specs. In each case where I did a conversion, the AC worked fine, it just took a bit longer for full cooling to build up.
  4. Yep it is a little kinked on both sides. Looks like in packaging they tried to protect it but it pushed against that cardboard. I have been pinching it to get it to unkink. If anyone has a picture of the Y plug or removal of the Y please post. I do good with pictures. Made good progress today. Pic below.
  5. Sorry... One more thing while I'm in here. The rubber fuel line in this pic doesn't look right to me. Looks kinked. Is that just a trick of the camera angle?
  6. Actually, that's not really a big deal. If you overfill it, it will just run into the carb throat and the first time you start the car, it will just get sucked in and burned. One little blue puff on that first start and problem solved.
  7. I'll be the dissenting voice: I don't think you should block off everything. I think there should be a small amount of flow through the thermostat housing at all times (even when the thermostat is cold and closed). If everything is blocked off, you can run into the situation where the thermostat is sitting in a stagnant pool of liquid. Problem with that is a stagnant pool won't correctly reflect the temperature of the coolant inside the head and the thermostat could be delayed in opening. On my 280, I'm routing coolant through my throttle body, and that coolant bypasses the thermostat. Once I installed that line the temperature gauge reads completely different than it used to. My needle starts to move much earlier than before indicating that with the previous system there was no coolant flowing around the temperature sender until much later. So you don't have to pass the coolant through the carbs, but IMHO, there should be some flow. If you insist on blocking everything off, drill a hole in the thermostat. My experience with my 280 leads me to believe that the little jiggler hole built into the thermostat isn't enough.
  8. "mostly the underside" I sure hope they didn't screw up the assembly marks like they seem to do to every Z that slips through their hands. Last time I worked on Paul's car the underside was PERFECT!
  9. Today
  10. When it goes from bad to worse To the Harbor Freight Community: I'm writing to apologize. I often reach out to tell you about Harbor Freight's commitment to quality and all the investments we've made to deliver quality tools at the lowest prices. Your trust matters deeply to me and I'm proud of how far we've come. So when we have a product recall, it hurts. A few months ago, we recalled our Pittsburgh 3 ton and 6 ton steel jack stands (SKUs 56371, 61196 and 61197) due to a manufacturer's defect. We asked customers to return them and receive a gift card that could be used to purchase replacement jack stands. I felt terrible about that recall because you should never have a concern about the safety of any of our products. Today, I feel even worse. I'm disappointed and embarrassed because we've identified a welding defect in a small number of the Pittsburgh 3 ton steel jack stands (SKU 56373) that replaced the recalled jack stands. We're now adding these jack stands to our recall. Unfortunately, this defect wasn't discovered during the initial recall investigation. If you own these jack stands or any of the jack stands in our original recall, whether or not you have had an issue with them, please stop using them immediately and bring them back to your local Harbor Freight Store for a full cash refund or store credit (see details here). We have investigated all of our other Pittsburgh 3 ton steel jack stands (SKUs 56371, 56372 and 57308) as well as the Pittsburgh 6 ton steel jack stands (SKUs 56368, 56369 and 56370) and Pittsburgh 12 ton steel jack stands (SKUs 56374 and 56375) and did not find the defect. Although none of these other jack stands are being recalled, if you own any of them and have any concern whatsoever, please bring them back and we'll give you a full cash refund or store credit for those as well. I want to apologize to all of our customers. While we've dramatically grown our team of engineers and inspectors, and intensified our tests and inspections, I assure you that the lessons learned from this will drive further improvement. As the owner and founder of Harbor Freight, I want you to know that we stand behind every product we sell and that safety will always be our top priority. Sincerely, Eric Smidt Owner and Founder Harbor Freight Tools
  11. That could leave a mark!
  12. Are you guys using anything special for intake/exhaust fasteners? I’m using a Datsun Motorsport header that has been on my car since the 70’s and a non-EGR L28 intake that has been extrudehone’d. The EFI will be controlled by a Haltech Elite 2500. I was going to just order some new fasteners from the ZStore but I thought I’d ask here first...
  13. Yesterday
  14. I couldn’t find this via a search so I thought I would share my findings the thread size for the fitting that leaves the turbo oil t-block (originally hardline to the turbo) is: m12x1.0 I used a m12x1.0 to -4an adapter and works perfect for my turbo oil feed line. cheers!
  15. Do not overfill the dash pots, doesnt take much oil!!!!!!
  16. For the oil, use Marvel Mystery Oil. The perfect weight.
  17. Easy peasy. Put a pipe plug in thermostat hole. The pressed in plugs (four) in two carb manifolds are good, or replace with pipe plugs. Remove the "Y" adapter, and replace with a straight piece of tubing. Remove everything from the "Y" fitting to the thermostat. Plug the hole in the end of the balance tube unless you need more vacuum fittings. Check my gallery for photos, I have done what you want, except I don't run a heater core.
  18. I believe he capped it off at the red circles so I believe that is best method. I have already done the thermostat cap but what do you do to cap it at the Y in the lower red circle. Do I have it go from the metal Y to the little bit of hose and then find a cap that fits that hose? Ideas on that. Also the carbs were shipped without any oil. Seems I need 20W oil and the only 20W oil I can find is fork oil. Is that what I use? Thanks again and wish me luck. I have had this apart for 5 months waiting on the carbs and I just received them and should have taken more pictures of what goes where...
  19. What Siteunseen has done achieves exactly the same net effect: no coolant flow to the carbs. You can do what he's done if you want. However, the plugs put into the front and rear carb body coolant ports by Z-Therapy mean that -- for you, with your new carbs -- there's no need to do what Siteunseen has done in his set-up. Nor do you need to worry about the pipe connecting the front and rear carbs. It's long gone and irrelevant.
  20. Sorry Dutch, the rear fender flairs are one of a kind, handmade. Similar panels can be found if you search for "YZ flairs" on this site (and/or the web in general). The exhaust sound you heard is without any tailpipes or mufflers. With the system fully installed the sound is quite satisfying. It would be fun to be able to "toggle" between the two sounds.
  21. https://www.autoblog.com/2020/07/07/harbor-freight-replacement-jack-stands-recall/?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAFPwutOBUYd_3Zr9zB_IqN_nHR1qBqVMbJq0_k-_hTcnAfMT9BtIUz10rGUPtPOPntthIOgsM8dsyqdpKf9Mzoe_biKwqssMAN_VHIMv-SUvyBh240a4gVL5eB31t5K7OJuqC73RgnZ69jt2x2MX9nYxy1DCE6zt2lwqy_BeYOtH
  22. Thank you, those pictures are very helpful! Nice car too!
  23. I got 20” from center. The 240 has a muffler hanger bracket directly above the outlet pipe of the muffler. I offset forward in the car to tighten up the exhaust pipes he makes. are putting on a resonator it made mine a little more pleasant. But still nasty on WOT between 4K and 7k.
  24. Well the buyer can back out but he will loose his privilege of bidding on BaT for future auctions and will probably still be charged the 5% commission he owes BaT. After that deal is dead BaT will reach out to the second bidder to see if he is still interested.
  25. Very helpful, thanks! Any chance you could pull a tape from the center of the car (or the outside) as well?
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