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  2. Sean, when I say it de values the parts, what I mean has nothing to do with monetary value.
  3. Sorry to see you have the same issue Captain. Totally agree on the original design being elegant. If you’re not bothered by originality, the classic BSA motorbike ones worked perfectly. I had to trim the edge off one end to help it over the spring top-hat lip (a tight fit even with the originals) without covering the drain holes. The dimensions on the other end are tight enough over the strut body (late 260z) that I could have gotten away without the clip. I did add the clip regardless but it’s not hidden like on the originals gaiters. Here’s the link. Let me know if you can’t find them or anything else suitable state-side and I will get some to you. https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/bsa-fork-gaiters-42-5320.html Here are some dimensions for comparison ...
  4. Today
  5. Car turns over just fine with a screw driver from battery to solenoid. I haven't had the chance to look at the relay discussed above yet and may not get one today either. My yellow wire that goes to that relay or the solenoid is dead. I probably will re-enable the 'non-factory' relay. I do not like high amps in the ignition switch either. Thanks very much for the 'wiring' pic & diagram. I am trying to be real cautious so I don't fix one thing and then fry something else.
  6. Quoted by Alan T on AusZcar the 24th August 2019 I can recommend the re-issue ADVAN (Yokohama) HF Type-D in 195/70-14. Here they are on a set of genuine 432 type Kobe Seikos, but I reckon the size will happily stretch the extra inch to work on the 7J Kobe Seiko Works Rally Mag replicas Quoted by Alan T on AusZcar the 19th Oct 2019 The latest run of replicas being sold in Japan by M-Speed are made outside Japan, so their overhead costs are much lower. They are slightly different than the originals, and are made from Aluminium alloy rather than Magnesium. Q.E.D.
  7. And you have what, exactly? I have wheels that show proof of their quality that as if I had bought a run of Rotas or Ataras – I don’t need to visit their factory for quality proof and neither do I for this factory – who does here when they buy after-market wheels ? Hands up ! I very much doubt you know what their overheads are, or what their profit margin is, but you seem to be ready to claim that they are "manipulating the public"? How could you possibly be in a position to make that assertion? I’m claiming that YOU are manipulating the public – plastering doute upon the wheels’ quality, trying to install guilt upon anyone buying them – as for their overheads in Japan, that’s not stopping the wheels being sold here at inflated prices either ! Nope, just straight to the back door………………….Nothing ‘slipped’ out the back door or ‘fell off a lorry’ because as I’ve already stated – they were sold openly via an approach to the factory. Garbage. And totally irrelevant too. So YOU would say but it’s already been stated elsewhere by one of your cronies that that seeing these on everybodys’ ordinary Z will ‘devalue’ the scene. You don’t want to see these wheels fitted to Zs owned by Joe Public – point ! You’d like all the ‘nice bitz’ reassuringly expensive to ‘select’ their owners and keep ‘em rare – hardly a mate to M-Speed who, as a retailer, want to sell as many as possible but have failed ! Reproductions of these wheels have been made for many years. Nothing is stopping anybody from making them. Nor selling them to the general public ! I've asked you before whether you'd be happy for anyone to approach the Chinese factory which makes your Z-Story exhausts for you, and to start selling them without your permission. No answer. Here’s your answer then : It is ironic that is was YOU who tipped me over to sell wheels ! Wherever the exhausts are made now, you’re right – there IS nothing to stop someone obtaining one to serve as a prototype to fabricate elsewhere ! So, I began spindle pins now with strut-brace bars, then wheels (which I expect to develop as the modest profits are reinvested) and early next year with other parts, all in parallel with a growing range of exhaust parts. And my prices are and will continue to be affordable, cost less than most competition and be of an equal or superior quality. What do you make Alan ? What do you BOTH do to help ordinary Z owners ? What do you and your SW chum bring to the Z community aside from a few snippet photos and a large slice of sarcasm with cutting remarks from the safety of your keyboards ? I’ve been a very active club member, helping others, organising events, negociating discounts from suppliers of parts and services and throughout those 31 years, promoting the marque to increase the publics’ and press’ awareness. The only thing I haven’t done is promote our cars through recongnised motorsport and even that is about to change ! So whilst your happily criticising everyone and everything, arrogantly snug in your office, don’t preach to me about ethics ! These exchanges with you both are tiresome and pointless….just an opportunity for you both to try and score points, nit-pickers, picture-straighteners and I’m having no more of it. These wheels are already happily selling on three continents – I shall concentrate my time and energy upon customer satisfaction instead. Moderators – this is a for-sale thread attached to a legitamate advert – please consider if all these replies are relevant. Owners – if you want to discuss buying a set of wheels, I invite you to PM me please.
  8. And you have what, exactly? I have wheels that show proof of their quality that as if I had bought a run of Rotas or Ataras – I don’t need to visit their factory for quality proof and neither do I for this factory – who does here when they buy after-market wheels ? Hands up ! I very much doubt you know what their overheads are, or what their profit margin is, but you seem to be ready to claim that they are "manipulating the public"? How could you possibly be in a position to make that assertion? I’m claiming that YOU are manipulating the public – plastering doute upon the wheels’ quality, trying to install guilt upon anyone buying them – as for their overheads in Japan, that’s not stopping the wheels being sold here at inflated prices either ! Nope, just straight to the back door………………….Nothing ‘slipped’ out the back door or ‘fell off a lorry’ because as I’ve already stated – they were sold openly via an approach to the factory. Garbage. And totally irrelevant too. So YOU would say but it’s already been stated elsewhere by one of your cronies that that seeing these on everybodys’ ordinary Z will ‘devalue’ the scene. You don’t want to see these wheels fitted to Zs owned by Joe Public – point ! You’d like all the ‘nice bitz’ reassuringly expensive to ‘select’ their owners and keep ‘em rare – hardly a mate to M-Speed who, as a retailer, want to sell as many as possible but have failed ! Reproductions of these wheels have been made for many years. Nothing is stopping anybody from making them. Nor selling them to the general public ! I've asked you before whether you'd be happy for anyone to approach the Chinese factory which makes your Z-Story exhausts for you, and to start selling them without your permission. No answer. Here’s your answer then : It is ironic that is was YOU who tipped me over to sell wheels ! Wherever the exhausts are made now, you’re right – there IS nothing to stop someone obtaining one to serve as a prototype to fabricate elsewhere ! So, I began spindle pins now with strut-brace bars, then wheels (which I expect to develop as the modest profits are reinvested) and early next year with other parts, all in parallel with a growing range of exhaust parts. And my prices are and will continue to be affordable, cost less than most competition and be of an equal or superior quality. What do you make Alan ? What do you BOTH do to help ordinary Z owners ? What do you and your SW chum bring to the Z community aside from a few snippet photos and a large slice of sarcasm with cutting remarks from the safety of your keyboards ? I’ve been a very active club member, helping others, organising events, negociating discounts from suppliers of parts and services and throughout those 31 years, promoting the marque to increase the publics’ and press’ awareness. The only thing I haven’t done is promote our cars through recongnised motorsport and even that is about to change ! So whilst your happily criticising everyone and everything, arrogantly snug in your office, don’t preach to me about ethics ! These exchanges with you both are tiresome and pointless….just an opportunity for you both to try and score points, nit-pickers, picture-straighteners and I’m having no more of it. These wheels are already happily selling on three continents – I shall concentrate my time and energy upon customer satisfaction instead. Moderators – this is a for-sale thread attached to a legitamate advert – please consider if all these replies are relevant. Owners – if you want to discuss buying a set of wheels, I invite you to PM me please.
  9. That's a great video. The pressure seems lower than most at idle but jumps up quick so is probably fine under load. It's a tough call, I can't think of what you would do about it except a rebuild. The pump looks fine based on how the pressure jumps when you rev it, but the 10 psi at idle seems low. I'm only guessing but it looks like you might just have a worn, or loose, engine. A perfectionist (no offense to those out there) might tear the engine down and rebuild it because it's not "as-new" but it looks like it's supplying oil with back pressure at the higher RPM, so should run fine and last many miles. Maybe run a thicker oil than standard. I'd just run it as it is until you hear a rod bearing knocking. I'm not an expert though, one of the guys who's rebuilt a few might see clues of impending doom there.
  10. I was theorizing about using the original type nut but not peening it and using Loctite instead. 😬
  11. I checked the parts for my 83 ZXT. The tension rod bushings have a tubular metal inner sleeve, but the sway bar end bushings do not.
  12. I’ve used that 13/64 bit quite a few times with good results. As you mentioned centering the bit is key.
  13. i’ll try to run the baby bottle of fuel right before the pump to see what happens and let you guys know what happens. if the line is stopped up is the only way to get around that just replacing the hard lines that run from the tank to the engine bay or is there some way to get them cleaned out
  14. M6 x 1.0 is used extensively all over the car, and while I did not look up that bolt specifically, I believe that's what it is. As for the official pilot drill size necessary, I'd have to look into that. There are rules for metric taps (that I never committed to memory), but it would be easier for me to instead just see what size drill bit fits snug into the threaded hole of a couple M6 x 1.0 hex nuts and just use that. Edit - You made me look... My crib notes says I use a 3/16 (.1875) drill for my pilot when tapping M6 x 1.0. It's probably a little undersize according to the rules, but that's how I roll.
  15. CO, Is the tap size Ilisted correct?
  16. I think the oil pressure on the mechanical gauge looks fine. Seems like an electrical issue with the dash gauge.
  17. You won't be able to push the bolt back out that way. You need to turn it. Pushing it straight won't do anything good, and if you push too hard, threads somewhere (either on the stub you've got stuck in there or the bolt your using to push) will give way and tear out. However, if you do have access to the other side and there is some exposed threads on the back, you can use that hole on the back side as a guide for a drill bit to get it centered. You want something that is the minor diameter of the threads (do you know what I mean by that), and then you should be able to use a tap from that back side to clear out the threads. Are there enough threads exposed on the back for you to catch a tap on to get started properly?
  18. My pleasure!! And I second the Loctite ban. If you use the distorted thread ZX nuts, you won't need any thread lock. And if you use the original style, you'll just peen them. In either event, you won't need any Loctite.
  19. Crapsticks. That's not the answer I wanted. I really thing the original design (with the bellows and the retaining ring at the bottom) is pretty slick. @AK260, you mentioned in another thread that you were using the bellows from the front of a dirt bike or something? How did that work out?
  20. OK, so there are a whole bunch of votes that say the spacer I described isn't there. And admittedly, I did not go out to take a look at my car. It's quite conceivable that I was mistaken and simply describing how I THINK it should be designed. In any event, you're in good hands. Ignore me.
  21. I was reading your post from the beginning and have a question. When you said the car wouldn't start did you mean the engine wouldn't turn over or it turns over, but will not run? Also the relay you showed is a Bosch std 30 amp relay that is used for everything and mostly in alarm systems. If this is hooked to your start switch the PO might have tried to by pass the wiring to the starter because the car wouldn't start. I had this problem with my 75 and have seen it on more than 5 cars over the years. look at the crude diagram I have drawn. I currently employ this relay because it eliminates running a high current through the ignition switch that if shorts in the steering column causes all sorts of problems.
  22. She's somewhat resistant to opening back up. I'm trying though. I have to get it off though because I plan to replace the female portion, heck, both the hood and firewall side with newly plated latches. Just have to find some...
  23. Glad to help. I might have a few spares I could part with... They are easy to open and clean up.
  24. I'm working on 2 things at once as I find parts bad and waiting on new ones. I am removing the MSD & getting power to the solenoid. Thanks for the pictures of the coil & resistor. My wiring there was butchered for the MSD. IF you are looking down at the resistor are the 2 right wires the ones connected to the coil?
  25. Hi, do you happen to still have radio? thanks
  26. Good to know, thanks for posting this info! I have been looking for one of these for my '71. They are hard to come by (in good shape anyway). I've been pondering the purchase of another one so I can restore it. This will give me the information that I need to make a purchase.
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