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  2. Those look like they would clean up very well. With plated hardware and a vapor hone. 🙈 I think there are rubber isolators between the carb and the manifold, check them out and make sure there are no leaks. Nothing stands out too much, make sure the head/manifold gasket is not restricting airflow.
  3. I recall the clamps I used were 6-7mm, (used braided hoses).
  4. While waiting for a few small parts, I decided to redo the Lighter and Hazard Switch mounting. The rear mounting bracket made the hazard switch stick out about 3/8" of an inch too much, showing a lot of the brass threaded stem above the spanner nut. The lighter socket fits fine, but the switch bracket needs to be pulled back away from the dash to have a solid flusher mount. I saw this link which talks about the same problem and fix. First, I cut the bracket with some tinsnips, and after drilling a new hole for a sheet metal screw, and bolted the lighter half back in place and mounted the lighter socket. I rounded up some spacers for underneath the bracket, add added some washers to the stem so it seats against the back of the dash. I also added a washer beneath the spanner nut so it doesn't twist directly against the new dash material when tightening. Not sure if the factory had one there, and mine was missing, but it seemed like a good idea. Used my snap ring pliers for the spanner nut, not the best tool to use, but it worked. Got a longer M5 screw and drilled another hole for the sheet metal screw. Mounted back in place. It does feel more solid too.
  5. Today
  6. I decided to create a new topic to continue the discussion regarding factory undercoating and whether primer / paint was used or not. I understand and it makes sense that the factory may have done different things over the years with regard to undercoating so all I can really present and comment on is my 5/72 240z. I would really like to see what @Carl Beck, @26th-Z, @bluezand others think about what I am seeing with my car, relative to what has been written and thought about the topic over the years. My car is a 5/72 240z. It has original 918 orange paint that is in excellent condition. The car shows approximately 24k miles and in every way that I can think of reflects that number. I am refreshing the car but am preserving the original exterior paint and pristine original interior. The car was stored for decades after having a blown head gasket. This probably saved the car and preserved it. I am refreshing everything else- engine, everything under the unibody, rubber, etc. I have refinished the engine bay and front unibody that the fenders, hood, valence, etc mount to. I am currently refinishing the floors and underbody behind the floors. My car has what I believe to be factory tar undercoating top coated with 918 orange (though thinly top coated). It is what 26th-Z describes as a "thicker textured paint finish". In my opinion this is a typical tar undercoating with lots of texture, top coated with the same paint used on the exterior- in my case 918 orange. My eyes and experience with stripping the undercoating tell me that what is beneath the tar undercoating is nothing but galvanized metal. I can remove the galvanization mechanically or with acid. This coating, to me, doesn't behave like a primer or paint and doesn't look like it either to my eye. It won't come off with aircraft paint remover. It only comes off with a wire wheel or acid. Here are some photos that I hope show what I am seeing. This is the floor before stripping. I used a heat gun and a putty knife to remove the "painted tar undercoating". The photo below shows what the painted undercoating looks like when removed. The painted side is painted. The tar undercoating portion is what I know tar undercoating to be. And, there is no primer or paint on the underside of the tar undercoating (the black side). It is just black tar undercoating. The photo below, to me, raises the most questions. To my eye, the left side shows what I now see all over my floors and tunnel- a mixture of bare metal and galvanized metal. Clearly the transmission brace is bare metal. The tunnel surrounding, to me, shows a galvanized / electroplated sort of coating. To me, this doesn't look like and it doesn't behave like a primer. Aircraft paint remover does nothing to it. The only way to remove it and make it look like the transmission braces is to either wire wheel it or treat it with acid. Am I seeing this wrong? Is it really some milky looking super thin primer? The right side shows the painted undercoating. What I see where the undercoating ends and metal begins is painted tar undercoating where my tool has, at the edges, scraped away some of the paint leaving only black tar undercoating. So, I am interested in what Carl, 26tth-z, bluez, and others think. Please let me know if I am wrong about what I am seeing. I truly want to know, and I want others to know, how at least the 1972 (or maybe just the 5/72) cars were delivered. I also have a 10/71 1972 240z in Silver. It is not at all close to the condition of this car....but have seen the same where I have removed some painted undercoating in the past.....though all of it has now been refinished to preserve the metal. Thanks all. J
  7. Great info, thanks for the clarification.
  8. i don’t have the filter setup or airhorns for it but i wouldn’t mind getting either for it . it don’t have any of the gaskets either so i would have to get those as well. i was mainly just wondering if there’s any additional linkage id need to buy or have modified
  9. Yesterday
  10. I'm trying to bring my '71 back to as close to original as practicable. I went to ZCar Depot and ordered two-wire hoses clamps. The rad and heater clamps worked fine, but the fuel-line clamps just won't tighten down on the rubber 5/16 hoses. They tighten, but no much that you can't easily twist them on the steel lines. Apparently the original fuel hoses had a bit greater o.d. than do modern hoses. Any suggestions would be welcome.
  11. It looks like they have a J hook set up, some some linkage is there for the throttle. I can't tell if it is all there though. They also appear to have K&N backing plates, If you have the rest of the K&N set up that would suffice as an air filter set up.
  12. Difficult to tell from a couple snapshots on a phone camera. Did they come with airhorns? Did they come with an air box and filter? Intake/exhaust manifold gasket?
  13. Going triples isn't for the faint of heart. If you love to tinker, or have access to a local carb tuner, then I say go for it. If that isn't your cup of tea, stay away. They are not just bolt on and go.
  14. this might be a dumb question , but if i get these rebuilt and put on is there any additional parts like linkages or anything else needed or that would need modified to work or are triple setups bolt on?
  15. Me too. It's my favorite house plant.
  16. The two barrel side draft carbs were used on many different cars, not just Datsuns. Find a supplier that can get rebuild kits and do it yourself. It is easy. Or, find a shop that specializes in carburetors and be prepared to spend a considerable amount more to pay someone else to do the job. The installation and tuning is where the skill comes in. Having a set of various sized jets, a tool to read the spark plugs helps. Even better is having an exhaust gas analyzer to get the carbs set and jetted correctly. Get it too rich and it will consume excessive amounts of fuel, and wash the cylinders down, shortening the life of the cylinders and piston rigs, pollute the oil and risk bearing damage. Get it too lean, and melt pistons. Oh, and when the atmospheric pressure changes, you’ll need to check and change jetting.
  17. It is a sweet, pungent scent. The first time I encountered it I was barely 12 years old. I still like the fragrance of it.
  18. Thanks Carl for sharing that information. Unfortunately I was just a toddler, so I missed out! it would be something special to have that poster collection now. Laughing a little bit to myself here about the display you describe, because there were probably very few US customers who even understood what rallying entailed. Most probably asked themselves why on Earth would they ever want to off-road their brand new Z, ha! Times have changed- today, everyone wants an SUV.
  19. I'm Dutch.. but was never stoned.. i take a big detour when it comes to drugs.. NO to drugs! Weed is available here and i know the smell ( Horrendously!!) because i was a servce engineer for fire and burglar alarms.. Oh wow... it stinks to hi heaven!
  20. hopefully they contact me back here soon. i tried to call another shop locally but haven’t responded to me either, also idk if they’re really familiar with datsun related carburetors but it was a carburetor specialty shop.
  21. Replacing gaskets and cleaning doesn't take long, so it shouldn't be too expensive. I would say 2-3 hours worth of work. Completely taking them apart, vapor blasting or similar, all new zinc hardware, fully setup takes a lot of time and will cost $.
  22. yeah i emailed them to see how much it’ll run. i think i spoke to another guy about that shop and he said it’s like $1200 to have them rebuilt but i could be wrong. we will see since i just emailed them last night
  23. Kyushahouse would be about as good as it gets for SK carbs. They are on the rarer side here in the states. OER still makes and sells parts for them, but it's hard to get them here these days.
  24. Welcome! I know of no replacement for that screen but others might. Yes, some of us install an in-line fuel filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump to protect the pump. I use Wix filters but I think the Fram G3 filters are the same. I think I use wix 3302 (5/16 hose fittings) for a 240z and 3303 (3/8 hose fittings) for a 280z. I replace the filter each year.
  25. "De onderste steen boven halen" is that saying in dutch.. translation would be: Get the bottom stone out! I can't think of a difficult to understand (translated) saying on the spot now.. Thanks! CO for the explanation!
  26. I've never used this service, but i see lots of people on Instagram use http://kyushahouse.com/
  27. Just an FYI, in case you didn’t see them in the Datsun Showroom at the time: That image and another was printed on one half of a Showroom Poster - each image was about 3w’x2h’. So the total size of the Poster was about 3’ wide by 4’ high. The images were printed head to head, or top to top. The Poster was then folded in half - and hung over a support wire that ran wall to wall across the center of the showroom. There were two or maybe three different Posters - that featured the EAS Rally 240Z’s and the Monte Carlo 240Z's.
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