Hay I found a new one from a company called Klearz <firstname.lastname@example.org for a white lens, but it looks like the whole lamp assembly has to come out of the car to replace the lens, can someone clarify this operation for me ?
Researching the web I found a post where a guy had the same problem after adding the ZX ignition. ZedHead was on this post. This guy had an MSD coil and when he went back to his OIC coil the problem went away. I have the same coil I was using before I removed the ballast resistor? Does anyone think adding a resistor to blue white on the coil would fix this. Not sure if the old ballast resistor dropped the voltage to the tach. Or I can try a different coil
Here is another thread on hybrid Z. This guy changed his coil too and it fixed the problem. The stock coil is designed to be used with the ballast resistor and is rated at 3 ohms without a ballast resistor you want a 1.5 ohm coil.
Okay, I tested all those connection. First us3 the continuity setting the the the resistance to verify the actual ohms.
- Black wire on dash harness side to ground shows “short”. With a reading of 1.2 ohms,
- Blue white (LW) on dash harness to neg post of coil. Shows “open” with 2.23 k ohms
- Then tested Bluw White (LW) on diagram to the resistor and it shows “short” with .3 ohms
- other side of resistor to neg coil post shows “short” with . 3 ohms
-resistor itself tests ar 2.2 kOhms
-when I put a jumper where the resistor it goes I get a” short” reading with 1.6 ohms
This all looks correct to me.
Of note the thee gauge lights to the tachometer do not illuminate with all the other lights on the dash. New bulbs in there also.
I’ve been lurking for months now, just learning. It’s a 72 240z. Bought about a year ago and slowly getting it back in shape. Did the usual rust repair in the dog legs. Added a mild cage so my chances of dying in a mild accident are lesser [emoji6] And now just trying to get the panels fitted properly before heading off to paint. Just ordered lower fender patch panels from KF vintage because mine are beat to death. Goal is to just have a good daily driver. Here’s a pic of the car when I first got it and at present. Yes, it looked more complete in the first pic, but there was a lot hiding under that paint… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you! Mine is about 1/4” wider on both measurements, which probably explains the excessive gap. And if anyone else wants to chime in, a few more measurements for comparison would be helpful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Start with the wiring diagram from the FSM:
It shows one wire coming from the fuse box: blue. There is another wire coming from the resistor: blue/white. The wiring diagram shows this as yellow/white. Finally there is a ground wire.
From this approach, the first thing to check is quality of the ground. Measure resistance to ground on connector on the dash harness side at the black wire. Also make sure there is no resistance from the connector on the gauge to the gauge body. Clean the connector with Caig Deoxit while you're at it.
Next, as I stated before, check the resistance from the blue/white (or yellow/white) wire at the dash connector to the negative post of the coil. You may need to make an extended lead with an alligator clip to reach. You can build your own probe with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Multimeter-Stackable-Connectors-Adapters/dp/B07C535GBD.
Also make sure the dash to engine harness connectors are clean.
This was an aftermarket thermostat with an off-set valve. I'd definitely agree that could be the case but the thermostat I had in there previously was only a couple years old and a genuine nissan part with a centralized valve but after changing to this thermostat the issue didn't change.
Okay, was gone all weekend for kids sports tournaments but I’m back in the garage this AM. I’ve moved the capacitor (condenser) to the positive terminal on the coil. Stated the car…no change in the tachometer readings. Then I completely removed the TIU in the passenger footwell and wrapped covered and wrapped this wires that went to that. Started the car….no change in the tachometer. I then put my voltmeter on the red wire going to the back of the tachometer and started the car. 13.3 V at idle and 12.8 V while reviving the engine. I read that t tac needs a lower voltage here, but when I removed the inline resistor in the passenger foot well ( and left that circuit open). Then built a jumper to put the resistor on the red wire reconnecting to the back of the ta, it didn’t show any RPM at all. Thought I maybe needed to jump the wire to close that circuit where the resistor originally came but wasn’t sure if that would make a difference. SteveJ….any other ideas? I haven’t changed out the E12-80 unit for one of my backups but I really didn’t think that would make a difference. Any ideas appreciated.
Have you checked all the grounds? Among others, I am pretty sure there is a ground under the car in the area of the right tail light. I have found loose grounds will make for some weird electrical issues.
Sounds perfectly normal to me. L series engines always have valve chatter…..especially with a higher lift cam. I asked the Z Doc about this when he used to build my heads…..he said its the nature of the beast. You might be trumpeting it through the thin headers too. Enjoy it, drive it, L series engines are hard to break…,.believe me I’ve tried LOL.
That's very kind of you Kats. Thank you.
Japanese engineering of the 19th and 20th centuries is a fascinating topic, mixed up with all kinds of politics and social history. A period of rapid changes with extreme highs and lows. I am intrigued by it.
did you check the new thermostat before installing it? new ones can be bad.
Also, is the valve central in the thermostat or offset to one side? if offset, I think its possible to install it so it can't open fully. (one side of the thermostat housing is shallower)
Can someone help me out with 2 measurements? The panel gap between my hood and headlight buckets appears excessive. Can someone put a tape measure across the dimensions “A” and “B” in the photo below. Please measure the INTERIOR surface dimension, not outer edge. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey, I have a 1973 240z and I have what I believe is the original key. I wanted to get a replacement made and the code on the key is just a 4 digit number (5XXX) with no prefix. I thought the keys generally had a prefix for the type of cut? The key does work on everything (ignition, both doors, glove box, and trunk)
I took a look and there is no glove box code sticker. I attached a picture of the key (with a repro blank I was hoping to use) to show the style (and edited it a bit to remove the last 3 code digits and some of the key length)
Any idea what might be up? The key is super worn so I was hoping to avoid having a duplicate made directly from the key
Follow up to this. I removed the front carb and recentered the butterfly ever so slightly to make it close completely. There was a very slight gap on the bottom half of the butterfly plate. You really couldn't see it unless you put the carb up to the light and looked through. I didn't think it would make a difference, but sure enough it did. The car will now idle as low as I like.
They are hand made, one at a time. The color does seem off but Steve is very obsessive about making accurate reproductions. I feel confident the color is correct. He would be my first choice if you can figure out shipping.