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  2. I'm looking to get a project 280z that's about 450 miles away from me so the owner sent over a video of the car running. There's a loud clicking noise that I'm curious about so I'm wondering if anyone here would be able to guess what it's coming from. This will be my first project car so I'm not too knowledgeable about engines yet but I'll get there eventually. Here's the video of the startup and running -
  3. Yep its here on Amazon. I used only one wheel for dozens of long welds. It's a really good grinding wheel. https://www.amazon.com/3M-1991-Reinforced-Grinding-Wheels/dp/B0002SRLF2
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  5. I would buy a set of plugs, $10 and make sure the wires are in good shape and the right order. The cold start valve could be dumping fuel in also?
  6. Hi Engine cranks but not start. This 3 days after collecting the car at the garage for wheel/tire change. Guy told me "engine is running on 5 cylinders". Did not notice, but remember now 8 monthes ago that another garage owner change the sparkplugs...may be one was brand new but dead. Car went fine even if driven less than 200 miles or so. Could a dead sparkplug flood the engine with fuel with time? A possibility to explain why not starting anymore??? Anyway, did the continuity test and here are the results: Except for the water temperature sensor, everything's seems OK. Anyone has a concern regarding these results? Anyone got the bright idea to collect these data on a well running Z? Thanks for the support
  7. "500 miles in the last few years" Sounds familiar. Priming everything worked. Good to know for us "Garage Queen" owners.
  8. Wow! Big thanks for your time explaining that better. That post will be saved for sure. I'm guessing you have some experience in hvac. 👍 Thanks again.
  9. R12 is still out there, a shop should be able to get the real stuff. That is what is in mine. the replacements are often some kind of hydrocarbon (propane/butane) from the research I have done. IF you cant get R12 I would suggest R134 and a replacement Condenser like a parallel flow and maybe even a aux fan. New drier and complete flush of the evap, an a new compressor just to be sure, replace everything (evap too if you want to pop for a new one). Oh and barrier hoses as well. With all new stuff you will be into the price range of a vintage air, but will not have to do the fab work, and it will be original as far as the controls. I like the OE style since it maintains the correct use of the outside air chimney for ventilation. The correct way to diagnose an existing unit would be to have a shop evacuate the existing gas (if any) then fill with nitrogen to about 80psi (the normal off pressure for todays heat) see if it holds pressure, use soapy water to find leaks esp around the condenser. Look at the connections as well. The evap lives in a safe place so it will prob be ok. if pressure test checks out, before pulling a vacuum check to make sure the little line filter at the outside firewall connection of the high side is not plugged up, Flush the condenser with cleaning fluid install a new drier, pull a vacuum. If it hold near 30inmg for several hours after stopping the pump, then they put in the correct amount of R12 (assuming no oil was lost). The system is very simple, and as demonstrated in the video works just fine. Mine had a slow leak at the condenser, I was able to get a nice NOS unit to replace it as well as a now hard to get 33286 drier. This meant I was able to get it completely original. If I could not get the condenser and drier I would prob opt for a after market condenser of the same approx. size and modify the inlet side hard line so I can use the easier to find driers with inlets and outlets at the top.
  10. That is what I bought. I have some left over of course, would you like me to put some on a smaller spool and send it to you? Price sure has gone up, l think I paid around 80 cdn about 5 years ago.
  11. If you use a small jack under the tire once you have the whole car up and get the weight off it's easy. I didn't have to use the fork removal tool, just tapped the vertical threaded rod out with a hammer after removing the castle nut. Hollar back when you get ready to do it if we can help.
  12. I don't think you're likely to be able to source these new as stand-alone items (unless Zeddsaver comes through). Instead, they'll probably come in the form of used items from someone with an unwanted, beat-up seat. If I were such a person, I'd offer to either sell you the whole seat for $25 (you pay the packaging and shipping, so add $100) or I would invest my labour to recover the clips and dispose of the rest so that I could sell you the clips for $25 (you pay the packaging and shipping, so add $25). Alternatively, @zKars probably has a cache these (used), ready for sale and instant delivery. My guess is that his price will be $25 .
  13. have you noted excessive play in the steering parts? IIRC the inner tie rod is only one flavor now, so if you go that route make sure you get the correct outers. What is the symptom that you are attempting to correct with the replacement parts?
  14. Is your freon number in the video? I ask because my 77 has factory air that's long gone r12. A refrigeration guy we use at the restaurant said he has a drop in replacement for old commercial coolers and freezers. I think it was r222 maybe? I know it was in a pink tank. Thanks for any suggestions.
  15. I want to do the tie rod ends but I’m intimated by the install 😂
  16. Behind a locked panel... [emoji2955]
  17. If you do the tie rod ends remember the driver's side has left handed threads. Lefty tighty, righty Lucy.
  18. Got it, thanks for the link. I’ll be completing this repair along with the suspension components.
  19. A little background, there was some chatter about the ineffectiveness of the stock OE AC system, to point of perhaps still pics were showing low temps a result of pics taken in the winter time. The video was done to show the actual temp drop in real time for doubters. I generally stay out face book, but I also don't like misinformation so I felt the need to make the video. As mentioned feel free to jump around.
  20. Where is this hidden release cable, I’m asking for a friend.
  21. That was almost as good as the video of paint drying. Perhaps a timeline summary would have been as effective. Dennis
  22. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4307 Not cheap so you would want to make sure your old ball joints are not worn out. Have to remove them, they should be somewhat tight, any slop bad, easy to move bad. If they seem ok then you could clean up (pump grease to displace all the old) wipe clean, install boot, install on car, pump up with grease unitl you start to see the boot bulge (just a bit).
  23. they just fit over and have a wire IIRC. You would need to look on ebay and have some measurements ready to compare (they are given), I started down that road but popped for the sankie types.
  24. Hi Kats, I am glad that my experience with a car originally purchased new on 3/25/71 helped confirm the reasons a redesign of the oil pressure gage/sender combination was needed. I had used the 90psi/6kg combination with the good results that you describe, but I needed to use the 140psi/10kg combination to retain the originality of my series 1 car. During periodic maintenance, my mechanic, who has worked on these car since the mid 1970s, confirms my oil pressure with a direct reading gage knowing that this was a problem from the start. It also, as you say, gives me peace of mind. Sorry, I am no help when talking about S20 engines in Z432 cars, but wish I had this Z432 problem. 👨‍✈️ Dan
  25. Double hood latch release cables. Now I can open the hood with locked doors if the battery dies and the remotes won’t work. No door locks looks cool but can be a real issue if you lose power! Emergency access!
  26. Thanks for the info Dave. I didn’t know you could just get the boot. How does the boot attached to the unit?
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