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  2. You gave enough details to get a good guess. I'm glad it was that easy.
  3. I might agree with you. The information I found mostly on this site is how I came up with this. It’s my understanding that the rear brakes require 10 psi of constant pressure, the front brakes do not. It’s also my understanding that the master cylinder is what maintains the 10 psi for the rear brakes but does not maintain constant pressure for the front brakes. If this is true and the brake lines are reversed, then a constant pressure of 10 psi will be on the front brakes and none on the back. The same thing was said in the referring pages I found above. At least that’s how I interpreted it. It doesn’t make sense to me that a manufacturer would label a product front (f) and rear ® if it doesn’t matter. I have very little experience with this, but I did run into this problem in the past. I’m not here to be right, I’m here to learn. If I’m wrong, that tells me to dig deeper. I don’t know what to look for next. Zedhead, what is wrong with analysis and conclusion? I’m honestly here to learn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Today
  5. Hi Gavin , yes ! Are you thinking of your genuine works wheels are on a shelf as spares for the car show ? Kats FullSizeRender.mov
  6. Are your oil pressures good? Do you have any excessive engine noise?
  7. Nice Kats, are they the M-speed wheels? I would like a set myself.
  8. A Safari Gold Z432 with my Fairlady 240ZG . This Z432 belongs to Mr. Uekubo , he did restoration work by his own hands , metal work , paint work , and mechanical components refurbish work , interior trimming work , and S20 rebuilding. It took him almost 20 years to complete when he finally took the car on the road in 2021 . He was cleaver to do it, he had been collecting parts from local Nissan since late 1990’s . So most of parts which were applied in this car are NOS parts from Nissan , just amazing. Funny thing is, he found this Z432 in a vegetable field covered by lots of dart and soil .If he didn’t decide to take it, this Z432 would have been returned to the earth. He chose a set of replica “ Nissan works rally wheel “ . Looks great in his car . Kats FullSizeRender.mov
  9. Disagree, emphatically. But, good luck.
  10. 1. My left rear drum was stuck. I found today that no fluids come out of the brake cylinder when it's pressurized and I open the bleeder. 2. I also discovered that my master cylinder is not connected to the differential switch as it should be. I started tracking all of this here. For me at this point it's the same issue. I have noticed the front brakes dragging which can be caused by #2 above. I believe getting my master cylinder / differential switch setup properly.
  11. Thought that you were working on a rear wheel cylinder and/or stuck rear brake (Brakes dragging.), one side only. Not clear what the subject is.
  12. The last post in this thread by beermanpete explains how the master cylinder functions and why the lines from the master cylinder need to go to the proper area on the differential switch in the engine compartment. The master cylinder for sale at zcardepot also explains what's going on. https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-master-cylinder-1-wilwood-240z-260z-280z
  13. Disconnect the line at the wheel cylinder. Use your pressure device at the master cylinder and see if fluid comes through the line. If it does then the bleeder valve or the wheel cylinder is clogged. If it doesn't then there's a blockage before the wheel cylinder.
  14. Guys, I am debating between 20W-40 and 20W-50. The weather in CA does get in the 90s in Summer but in colder winter it does come down in the 40-50 range. Right now I am at 20W-40. Let me know what you guys use. Also any good brand in the 20W-40 range with good dose of ZDDP?
  15. Thanks! Paid a bit more close attention this time. It was beeping as intended without the seat belt. With the seat belt it did cranks nicely. Relay turned up fine i think. I started cold so it did gave me some problems at the start. I am changing the temp/thermo time/cold start valve connectors as they are all loose and broken next. Test out the cold start injector on the machine and finally its time to change the thermal coupler on the fan.
  16. I use a pressure tank at the master cylinder to simulate pressing the pedal, and yes. That pressure bottle saved my marriage. LoL The pressure differential switch has a line to each front brake and only has one line going to the back where it connects to a proportioning valve. This makes me believe that master cylinders are marked for a reason. All the lines are the same diameter, so that makes me think the back brakes may possibly require half the pressure? FYI - I learned that the "Differential Switch" is what the master cylinder is connected to in the engine compartment. The proportioning valve is mounted in the back of the car and controls the the volume of brake fluid to the calipers.
  17. Yep. In a modern car if you have it set to defrost, on hot or cold, the AC is running to dry the air. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. That's right. There should be 4 screws, but you only have 3 when you twist the head off one. That happened when I changed bulbs 22 years ago. Why did I need to change bulbs? I put in a new alternator and didn't know it was internally regulated. I was checking my new relay setup and running the car to test the new alternator. I measured the voltage at the battery and saw 17 volts! Before I could turn off the car, the passenger headlight went *poof*! A little research on Zhome.com, and I figured out my problem, and bypassed the voltage regulator.
  19. I thought it odd what they said about the paint. I guess it’s possible, but unusual. No? “The seller says the Racing Green paint is original, though he notes “a few touch-ups” done after it had been stored under covers for 40 years. Seller describes that the original paint was wet sanded, touched up, clear coated, and buffed out.” If it’s original paint, why not just touch up and buff out? I’d be worried about the clear coat pealing later on if that is what they did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Did you press on the brake pedal? Not clear what you're doing. Nothing should come out until you apply pressure.
  21. I absolutely need to get started on reassembling that engine. I am a bit stuck on some details. And of course, time is a factor. But I miss driving the car. It has about 46k original miles. The only reason I took it out was to fix a leaking front main seal and ro cleanit up. Then I spotted oil staining on the exhasut gasket, which I attributed to worn valve guide seals. So I pulled the head. And now I want to clean the engine bay up too...
  22. The wheel cylinder in your picture is the old series 1 style. The newer wheel cylinder isn't as tall and the brake line connects going straight in from the back rather than at an angle from the side. Check the thread I linked in post #5 of this thread for a visual comparison of the series 1 wheel cylinder and the newer cylinders.
  23. I've had that happen when the lines were plugged. Usually happens at the ends of the flexible lines. This would explain the dragging by maintaining some pressure in the slave cylinder.
  24. Nothing comes out of the bleeder. Is this a rebuild or replace? I don’t want to take things apart until I know where I’m going. Is this brake cylinder more current than a 1970? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. I doubt the engineers reversed the reservoir locations for no reason. Not totally sure what it was, but it costs money to retool and redesign parts. It doesn't really happen for no reason
  26. My other series one it was suggested to swap the lines. The easiest way to do that was to take the master cylinder off and connect the lines the proper way, then turn the master cylinder slowly sound until you can get it into the booster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. carmodelman


    1980 ZXR... Nooooooo !
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