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  2. Whoa! Those are some outstanding pieces of work! If those are “prototypes” I would love to see the “production” versions!
  3. I haven't been posting much but I have been working. Transmission is completely cleaned now and so is half the engine. You can even see the original blue paint now! We'll sort of, but I have two cans of the color to repaint with. Couple of questions: Is there a good paint or clear that people have used for the transmission. I got it cleaned but its spotty and doesn't look great. I started tackling the surface rust in the engine compartment. Once I am down to bear metal how can I protect it as I am not ready to paint yet. Does anyone know if someone sells Datsun color 240 in a rattle can? attached is a pick of the battery tray where I was able to get to good metal. Also, a pick of some of the rust I need to treat on the firewall
  4. Today
  5. I guess somewhere between Bloomington and Jasonville I have lost my AC unit for the 240. I would like AC back on the car. Will this be possible to do as it was before?

  6. I'm using the stock manual pump. Not sure what you (siteunseen) mean about getting the cables right. Are you referring to setting the choke cables correctly? I basically pushed the choke lever fully open and attached the choke cables with the cable levers fully dis-engaged. I then made sure they opened the butterflies evenly and pushed the jets down. Is there more to it then this? I'll give it a shot with the updated timing and see what happens also. I do think at 2.5 turns out the car would be very lean- bet I will confirm.
  7. There’s some great news coming down the pike for Toyotaku. Toyota will soon make reproduction parts for the A70 and A80 Supra. The news was revealed by none other than Shigeki Tomoyama, head of Gazoo Racing and A80 owner, at … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  8. Speed bleeders have worked very well for me for years, some times it is hard to find someone else to pump the brake pedal and speed bleeders make it a one man operation.
  9. Yeah, you're quoting my conscience.
  10. The Datsun 520 and 521 were the first real compact pickups to make it big for Nissan, and their endless charm is still readily apparent today. In age where pickups are mostly gigantic and laden with the bells and whistles … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  11. Looks like I have to bleed the brakes on my 1971. Before I tackle this project, I'm going to buy Speed Bleeders to install on the front calipers and rear drums. Here's a small write up about what I've found, in case others want to follow this path. Speed Bleeders by Russell Performance: IMPORT CARS SPEED BLEEDER APPLICATION GUIDE One Person System Takes The Work Out of Brake Bleeding...Bleeding your brake or clutch line has never been easier or simpler! Revolutionary double-patented Speed Bleeder replaces the original bleeder valve in your caliper/wheel cylinder with a spring-loaded one-way ball and check valve design. This unique design opens to allow the old fluid and air out, then closes automatically between pumps to prevent the old fluid and air from re-entering the line. It's a real time saver! Year Model Front Rear Front Rear NISSAN/DATSUN 80-98 200SX 639560 639560 - 639560 89-98 240SX 639560 639560 - - 69-78 240/260/280Z 639560 - - 639570 79-83 280ZX 639630 639630 - - 84-89 300ZX 639630 639630 - - 90-96 300ZX 639560 639560 - - Looks like I need the following part numbers, since I am still running stock calipers and rear drums: 639560 639570 I found these part numbers on Amazon (of all places): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOB6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOAM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
  12. These have a zero offset. No issue at all with the rotor caps. These are the 16x7 size.
  13. I think that they reduce the odds of leaks. Maybe also strengthen the seal for when you bump the bottom of the pan on something.
  14. If stopped working means it just quivers and jumps or it doesn't read right, that sounds like the ignition module. They go bad often these days after 40+ years.
  15. I was going to mention that you don't have to be exact on the rotations. For example, in first gear you'll have 3.592, 3.321, or 3.062, for example. 3.592 is between 3 1/2 and 3 3/4, 3.321 is between 3 1/4 and 3 1/2, 3.062 is almost right on 3.0, for one complete turn of the output shaft. Set your tail shaft indicator straight up, estimate the turns to get a full rotation and see what you get. The 1/4 turns are easy to eyeball. Once you look at the possibilities and try a few counts you'll say "it has to be ____".
  16. Mike, is there any wheel offset? Any issues with the front rotor caps hitting the wheels?
  17. Some logs from the other day.... 51819-1 by blodi, on Flickr 51819-2 by blodi, on Flickr
  18. So what do you guys think? Got them on the car today. The VTO Wheels look pretty damn nice! And of course that turned into a car detail project. She’s nice and shiny.
  19. Yes. Someone suggested put on an old clutch disc for a more accurate count and turn 20 times.
  20. Thanks! Appreciate you responding.... and great questions. See below: #1 I purchased the car about 2 months ago. It had been running fine in the short time I have owned it...... It did sit in a garage and according to the last owner he drove it a couple times a month but short local trips over the last 20 years. So hard to tell for sure how often it was driven.... #2 According to the last owner and the paperwork in the glove box. The injectors where cleaned about 2 years ago and it looks like the fuel lines under the hood have been changed. I did replace the fuel filter, and the one I removed had some sediment come out of it. After running it with the new fuel filter a few times the fuel appears clean as I removed the new filter and drained it to see what "gunk" may have come out. Looked clean. #3 The car is completely stock under the hood..... Still has the original engine with 92K miles. Thanks again for you thoughts.
  21. Welcome to the forum. The folks on here love to help Z owners with problems, so you’ve come to the right place for quality advice. So, I going to ask the questions most would ask before we get the ball rolling. 1. What is the recent history of this car. Did you just buy it? Has it been sitting, was it a weekend driver etc. 2. What recent work has been done on the car? 3. Is your car stock for the most part or modified. So fill in some more details so we can start to narrow down the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Datsun7


  23. New to the forum so please go easy on me! LOL! I have a 1977 280z. It was running fine and then died while idling in the driveway. I restarted and it is idling a bit rough.... when you give it gas it breaks up at certain RPMs. Really rough run up and not drivable but will maintain a rough idle.... At the same time this happened the tach stopped working. I have to assume the rough running and tach are related? I changed the ignition coil and cleaned up the terminal block connections that connect to the coil. Would appreciate any feedback and or suggestions.
  24. I have the rails but i am using the base pan off the old engine. They looked kind of ratty. Im guessing i dont need them. replacement bolts are all the same length.
  25. The mostly OEM harness and the added on wires from: horn, HIDs, LEDs, dual electric fans.
  26. The longer bolts go for those rails I found out the hard way. Never found out the reason for those rails though.
  27. CruiZer(currently not) & Racer... Chris
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