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  2. You mean like a links directory we already have? Here's a link: https://www.classiczcars.com/links/
  3. Today
  4. I’d bet so. It’s a fairly arbitrary PN, could have multiple supplier producing it under the same name.
  5. I wonder if there are a number of parts using that number bit vary in construction?
  6. I didn't have any issues when I replaced mine on my track Z several years ago.
  7. The ones I had, had very large shoulders on the yoke that prevented them from going in easily
  8. As for your adhesive. If you paint is catalyzed lacquer thiiner or adhesive remover should work without paint damage. But test it in a spot that is not visible
  9. John, let us know when you're back, and we'll go from there for Gland Nut measurements, and/or getting them back here. As far as the ones you used, as long as the ID of the inner opening that seats down on the strut matches extremely close to the top of the KONI, we would assume you'd be ok, but there may be factors we're not thinking of. If there is any movement at all, the damage could grow over time. We'll figure it out.
  10. I didn’t have any problems on this particular install. If anything the caps are a hair bit longer than the originals, but didn’t pose an issue
  11. I agree with CO Gone in 60 seconds. My youth was very colorful. If I really wanted to protect it, put a tracker in it. It'll tell you if it moves and you can lead the cops right to it. Provided they're still interested in that sort of thing where you live...
  12. Yep. About 2+ inches. Plenty of room for a cold air box. Maybe someday..................... I have added a heat shield between the header and intake. (Older picture)
  13. I used those myself but found they needed a little clearancing to get into the yoke ends. Did you have any issues?
  14. Actually you're better off to have that "12V" wire connected out closer to the loads. Like at the battery. Connected at the alternator it will deliver lower voltage to the full system, because there's no voltage drop there. You have yours setup like a "one-wire" system. But that is all considered in the #14 link. One of the wires that is being jumpered is the "12V" wire. That's one of the things that SteveJ suggested you check. SteveJ has been doing electrical for years, but I was in and out of it and off and on myself so I might have more empathy. I tried a few of the connect
  15. I was writing something when you posted. I'll go ahead and post it now. It's Reaganesque.
  16. Post up some rebuild results and tie this off nicely
  17. Should we trust ZCD? There are a lot of variables we don't know about that could have contributed to the failure the insulation of the fusible link. For instance, I believe I saw paint around the connector. Paint, corrosion, etc, would adversely affect current flow, building heat. We don't know the condition of the battery. If it wasn't fully charged, the alternator would be pushing more current across the link.
  18. 300 mm and look how much space to the shock tower...
  19. Considering what it looks like in the pictures I would make a video of the engine running and add it to your listing. Would probably help. And if you put the front struts and wheels back on somebody could roll it on to a trailer. The way it sits now, it will take a lot just to get it loaded. Just trying to help.
  20. Zed Head-yes, that diagram does show the wiring. I currently have the "12V post" wire tied off to the B terminal of the alternator. the wiring diagram from ZCD on the harness itself is already kinda iffy, so in the interest of being thorough, i was trying to verify 100% this wiring. Thanks for that!
  21. Air filters ? We don't need no stinking air filters ! (Autocross only) 😁 Length from head to end of velocity stack is approx. 300mm (11.75 ")
  22. See pic, steel line at bottom of the pic runs from the driver side to the rear vent tank (rear pillar) . two vacuum line connectors (top of pic) one for the crank vent tube the other to the air cleaner. Question: can the or has anyone used the crank PCV valve vent line running on the driver side to the vent tank (rear) as fuel line? 73 240z. Believe this hard line is 5/16? 73 240z.
  23. Yesterday
  24. Yup, based on you application. Where you want to make power, what your cam is doing, etc. Port match, run a reasonable velocity stack, a good air filter and call it job done.
  25. View Advert 1977 280 Z For Sale I am selling my 77 280 Z. Mileage is 131,484. Asking $4,000 OBO. Car has been in the family since the early 80's. It was garage kept through 2000. The car sat outside until we moved it inside in 2008. I unfortunately don't have time to work on this car. The car does start. Brakes work. No exhaust system. Front strut was removed to splice in a replacement quarter panel (battery acid). Pictures are attached. The car is in decent shape considering the age and treatment. Happy to set up a time to view the car if there is
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