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  2. Now the front end... 1 coat colour 3 coats colour
  3. This the first group of tests some of you may recognize from the FSM. At the beginning of today, I flunked this thing BAD. Spent a lot of time tracing down grounds/wiring issues and made some improvements. Results of before and after are: 1-1 (throttle valve) Before: Fail, 2-3Mohm. After: Pass 1-2 (throttle valve open) Before: Fail, open circuit After: Pass 1-3 (AFM) Before: 180 ohm, 180 ohm, 100 ohm After: Same 1-4 (air temp sensor) Before: 1.7 Kohm (weird temp reading) After: Pass, 2.3 Kohm 1-5 (water temp sensor) Before: Fail, 8 Mohm After: Pass, 2.3 Kohm 1-6 (air regulator) Before: Fail, 27 Mohm After: 61 ohm (?) 1-7: Pass 1-8: Pass 1-9: Pass 2-1: Pass 2-2: Pass 2-3: Pass Where a "Pass" is a resistance of just a few ohms. Even after "fixing" these wiring issues, still won't start. Injectors still not pulsing while cranking. I didn't have time to focus strictly on EFI wiring, but cleaned as many grounds as I could get my hands on. Maybe drop resistors aren't supporting enough current, or issue at relay pins like Zed Head mentioned...
  4. Grit, I'm not really suggesting things that you should do on a whim, I'm suggesting things that I would do if I had your problem. I'd use a mirror to see the AFM.
  5. Today
  6. Continued disassembly. Got the Dash out and most of the interior out on Saturday. Got the motor, muffler and transmission out today and started the brake line removal. Took a lot of electrical pics. I removed the interior vent ducts and noticed that a small passenger had set up his home in the driver side vent. Nice spot, much better than under or in the seats. Looks like he was prepping for the cold Pennsylvania winters.
  7. Gotcha, good to know, makes sense as it was a lower power LED bulb. A few things on the AFM. Relatively sure the AFM is actually a new unit (more parts someone threw at it). The vane opens with ease by hand. I'm working on my own and can't watch it during startup. But I'm actually spraying the starter fluid in a tube connected to the AFM, and since I'm getting a sputter at least, I think I can assume the vane is opening at least some. Battery is 10 months old, spent most of it's life on a battery tender in a garage. I tried the jumper cable start (my working car has a solid 12.8V or so) and didn't make a difference in terms of starting. I also tried starting for 15 seconds non-stop in the jumper cable config and no dice.
  8. @Zaspen That is really a good question as there is more to plating than just sending the parts. 1) Typically rubber does fine and is not effected by the acids. 2) Plastic is a little more hit and miss. Some types seem to not be affected by the acids, others are affected. I notice that the plastic on the end of the carb linkages do not handle the chemicals so well. They come back very clean but seem to loose some of their shape. 3) The bigger problem is 'Cavities'. This is a big problem. The Vac advance would fall into this category. What happens is the liquid that is used in the processing gets into the cavities of these parts and does not get fully rinsed or evaporated from the cavities. Then, during shipping, as the box is manhandled and vibrated, the processing liquid comes out of the cavities and stains the other parts in the box. The cavity parts also corrode very quickly because this liquid is still inside. So now, I send the cavity parts for plating separately from the regular parts. Cavity parts get their own separate shipping bag with instructions to dry longer and ship separately (in bags) from the standard nuts and fasteners. 4) Also, on the last vacuum advance I sent in (without special instructions) it came back with the internals very corroded. So, I ended up using a vacuum advance with light gold paint to somewhat mimic the gold zinc plate.
  9. Nicely finished inside panel! I will prep and paint the inner areas that are not visible when the car is assembled. I really hope this bed liner will keep the inside nice and fresh for a long time!
  10. Oct. 18. Press Preview in Ginza, Tokyo, Japan. thanks to @HS30-H
  11. I took the 260Z over to a friend's house today. I wanted to check how close my timing light was to his. At idle it was 1 degree off. That was close enough for me. He said I could still bump it up a couple of more degrees, and I said I would think about it. It just cruises so nicely now. We looked at a car he was working on for a customer. It was draining the battery after an alternator replacement. The previous alternator and replacement were both GM alternators. I told him before we got over there that the switched wire wasn't landed at the right spot. We checked the draw. It was 4 A. I told him to disconnect all but the ground and main wire. The draw disappeared. We validated that it wasn't the EFI relay (78 280Z). I didn't think it was, but since I don't have the wiring diagram memorized, I couldn't absolutely rule it out. I told him to swap the wires. He did, and there was no draw on the battery. Unfortunately, the battery had been drained and recharged too many times, and it needs to be replaced. We then moved to one of his cars. It's a 73 with an L28ET swap. It didn't have headlights. I checked the fuses. I made sure there was voltage at the fuses. The headlights still weren't on. I checked at the combo switch, and I found voltage on the dash harness side. I told him there was a grounding issue. We found the ground wire that wasn't connected, and the headlights came on. Then there was the matter of the high/low dimmer switch. It was non-functional. He had another turn signal switch, so I stripped off a good high/low switch from it and put that on the switch for the 73. Now it will change from high to low and back again. He called me after I got home. He didn't like how my transmission sounded as I left his house. I will raise the car on the lift and check the transmission oil level later this week. I like Z car days like this.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Jim, Thanks for clarifying. No, I'm afraid there are no notches cut in the back of my carpet (aftermarket #%^&*@). Fortunately I have a friend who is a sail maker and he should be able to cut and stitch-trim the recesses I need. Best regards
  14. Did a restoration of the octane in both cars today! Pretty tough job but I'm happy with the results. Guy at the pump next to me said I should wash my car. It shines like a new nickel so I told him I was just getting a splash of gas to make it to the "buy 10 gallons and get a free car wash" place on the other side of town. He looked at me sideways for a second or 2 then started smiling. It was great.
  15. Richard, To clarify - the area that I am referring to is the bulkhead right behind the seats,not at the taillight panel. You do want the strap mounts at the taillight panel to be aft of the carpet edge so you can easily get into the spare tire well. There is a good possibility that your carpet edge binding is already notched at this area to fit around the strap mounts. Sorry that I was not more clear on the first response. Jim
  16. I recently had the pleasure of spending a few weeks in Japan on vacation. It was my first trip back there since the late 1980's, when I used to visit frequently on behalf of an employer that was in the business of providing design/build services for R&D-type automotive test facilities. On this long-awaited return visit, I stayed in the Osaka - Kyoto - Nagoya area ('Kansai' district), well to the west of Tokyo. I thought I'd post a few of the photos I took during my stay, since it was partly a 'car guy' itinerary and I got to visit and experience a few things that will probably be of interest to many of the CZCC members. I'll start with a few pix I took in the magazine section of a big bookstore at Osaka's Kansai International airport. Sharp-eyed viewers will note that Japanese magazines are bound on the right side of the page and read from back to front...
  17. Thanks Jim, I was a bit concerned that having the back of the carpet screwed to the floor might make spare-tire access an issue, but (hopefully) that's a problem we won't have to deal with often. I appreciate your advice.
  18. Another guess and one that happened to me except that it happened when things got hot. The EFI relay coil would get an open circuit and not actuate the relay during starting. Just crank, crank, no start. You could jump the EFI relay pins as a test. One more - you say that you're not getting the injector test lights flashing during starting. This could also be caused by loss of injector power. Put a meter on an injector plug and see if you lose power during starting. The best way to solve these EFI problems is with a detailed list of tests and knocking them off one by one.
  19. A fully charged battery is 12.6v, so you need to get it charged up. It also drops a lot when cranking, how old is the battery. Probably not a direct cause but EFI and ignition systems don't like low voltage. Things get wonky when the voltage drops too much
  20. I still think that this is worth doing. If the vane is stuck you'll get less fuel. It's not uncommon, I think that confirming the vane isn't stuck is one of the checks in the FSM. As far as the starting fluid non-start is concerned, where are you squirting the fluid? You should squirt it in to the manifold after the throttle blade for best effect.
  21. Great thread with a lot of great info! I have a plating related question. Did the plating process ruin any rubber/plastic? Did the vacuum advance still function after plating?
  22. REDUCED TO $19,900. Here’s a photo from yesterday in the garage at Momentum Porsche (awaiting state inspection). Saul - 917-836-0545.
  23. I suspect your carpet is not too long. The carpet should butt up against the vertical bulkhead ridge and the screws for the luggage strap mounts should go through the carpet - effectively securing the carpet in place. Don't cut notches in your carpet at this location.
  24. The situation where you're getting +12 on both sides of the injectors is normal. It only takes a small amount of current to light up the test light and you'll pull that small amount through the injector on the floating side. It's not enough current to click the injector, but it'll pull enough to light the test light, In fact, you'll see that same situation even if you pull the connector off the injector completely. You'll pull current through one of the other injectors. Like this:
  25. That's what I learned from this process, if it works, you don't need to fix it! 😉
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