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Found 5 results

  1. I am in the process of tuning the round-top SUs on my 71. The first step is to set the idle screw and and jet level. The jet is supposed to be even with the "bridge," the flat part where the piston comes to rest when it is "at rest." This is possible on one of the carbs, but I cannot raise the second jet high enough. It is about a 16th-of-an-inch below being the bridge, I cannot get it to a flush position. Is it possible to loosen the jet jet locking nut and then make a "gross" adjustment so that I will be able to set the jet to flush using the jet adjusting nut? An other way of putting is, if I was rebuilding my carb how would I know where to place the jet before I held it in place with the Jet Locking Nut before I reassembled it and then made adjustments with the Jet Adjusting Nut? In case it helps, here is an image from the web showing the jet in the bridge. Can't tell from this angle if it is flush or not, but this is what I am trying to adjust.
  2. I am attempting to tune my '71 with the old round top SUs. I performed a rudimentary (at best) carb tuning and then turned to the ignition. While tuning the engine I was able to get the it to idle well at 800 RPM and it had strong acceleration up to about 6K RPM and 90 MPH. (On a track only, of course! 😉) But when I look at the ignition timing with a timing light, it shows that it is about 25-degrees BTDC! The distributor is at its limit of adjustment. Is it possible/recommended that I remove the distributor itself and move it by "one position" to fix the problem and get me back to the right range where I can make timing adjustments just loosening the distributor cap and adjusting? What is going on and how I can fix it? Thanks!
  3. Saw this and thought it might work for dual SUs, what do you guys think?
  4. Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know who you are! If there's anything I need to clarify or add, let me know. Table of Contents I. Documentation II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories III. Prologue IV. Choke/Venturi V. Main Jets, Emulsion Tubes, Air Correctors & Idle Jets VI. TBD I. Documentation DCOE Weber Carburetor Top-View Layout Weber Factory Tuning Manual - Download Link Power Tuning Webers (Des Hammil/Veloce Publishing) - Download Link Selection and Tuning of DCOE Weber Carbs (David Andrews ) - Download Link Weber DCOE Tuning Manual (Philippe Boursin) - Download Link II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories http://www.redlineweber.com/ http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm III. Prologue - The First Date First and foremost, it is essential that you know what you're working with. Setup a date with your newly acquired friends and spend a romantic evening just getting to know each other - perhaps light some candles and pour some wine while you're at it. In order to tune them properly, you need to know what sort of equipment your carbs are packing. IV. Choke/Venturi - Step One - Removal Let's start off by determining the size of the chokes/venturis. (If carbs don't have filters on them, skip to Step 1D) If the carbs are already out, the easiest way is to shine some light down the carb and see if you spot the engraved number. If you can't see the number or if you want to replace the chokes, then follow these steps. 1A - Unscrew the airbox/filter (If applicable) 1B - Underneath there are four (8mm) bolts holding in the housing. I already took off one of the studs. 1C - Remove Gasket (If applicable) 1D - Unscrew the this little fella (11mm) sitting on the bottom corner of each side of the carburetor. This holds the auxiliary venturi in place. 1E - Once the screw is removed, the aux. venturi should slip right out. 1F - Make a note of the little indent where the screw holds the aux. venturi in place. You're gonna have to put it back the same way for it to seat properly 1G - You should be able to see the chokes now, but we're gonna replace the 28's with a different size. 1H - Unscrew this fella (I used a flathead) to allow the choke to slide out. 1I - If you're having some trouble getting the choke/venturi out, then open the butterflies and push it out from the opposite side. It'll otherwise slide out IV. Choke/Venturi - Step Two - Assembly Alright, so now we have removed the choke - it's time to replace them! Here's the old 28 next to the new 34 that is going in. 2A - See these notches? You want to make sure that they line up properly in the carb. Looking at the carb from the front, the left choke lines up at 12 & 3, while the right choke lines up at 12 & 9 (Left choke lined up at 12 & 3) 2B - Re-insert the screw and make sure it sits firm. I had some trouble getting the right angle on some of them, so just make sure it's lined up properly. 2C - The aux. venturi should slide right in. Remember that little indent from before? Make sure it lines up properly with where the screw goes. 2D - Screw the little guy (11mm) back in and double check to make sure the aux. venturi is seated properly 2E - Do one final inspection to make sure everything is sitting right and then continue to put your gasket and filter back on. Personally, I went with these stacks. They slide right in and uses little clips that slide into the studs to hold them in. V. Main Jets, Air Correctors, Emulsion Tubes & Idle Jets WIP - Work in Progress
  5. 63 downloads

    A scanned document on building and power tuning Weber and Dellorto Carburettors

    Free

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