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About 240z70

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    San Jose, CA

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  1. Yes I should have provided the most information I had available, and be clearer in my post. My apologies to all for my inadequate post. Additional info: Yes all lights work other than the signals, and I don't have a heater, so I can't check it thru there. When I said jump, I actually meant providing a direct signal from the battery to the solenoid ignition signal post, not putting cables from another battery to my battery. Both switches (turn and lights - left/right) were torn apart and rebuilt by Dave Irwin, so I feel very comfortable about their internal condition. The wir
  2. Scenarios: Dirty battery connections/ Old Battery: Dont think that is the problem. Battery is new, and all the connections were cleaned and "vaselined". Bad connector connection: Could be. Will check those with meter. Loose wire somewhere???: Maybe, will check since it seems that the starter does not get the ignition signal to start, BUT why would it affect the turn signals...? When i put a small lead from POS on the battery and touch the Ignition signal post on the solenoid it starts without a problem. That seems to indicate the problem is upwind to the ignition, not down
  3. Background: 1970z-L28F54 engine- Starter sometimes would not crank, other times it would, so i figured that the starter was bad. Since its probably over 20+ years old minimum, I figured the Z could use a new starter, so I bought a new High Torque starter and installed. Then tested it. It did the same thing, (so I probably wasted the money, but at least I know that component is new) and THEN I NOTICED that whenever it would not start, the turn signals would not make any sound (flasher sounds) and the signals would not work. The funny (not really funny) thing is that IF i test it an
  4. Perhaps only archived instead of discarded?? That would be ideal, but you never know. Thanks Patcon.
  5. Maybe if all the different forums got together and created a virtual HISTORICAL DATSUN 240 Ƶ SOCIETY they might have enough weight to make a formal request to each state's DMV to provide them with maybe just the basic information for each HLS30: First Sold, City/State Each Subsequent Sale, City/State If destroyed City/State This would be done for the public historical interest with no personal/confidential information required from DMV. If such a virtual Historical Society was created, then perhaps it could be headed by someone who is very much into the history of t
  6. For those who want more info on what a reaction disc is, here you go. Has pictures also. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/#comments Without the reaction disk, the booster will not function correctly.
  7. Pat, could one just make one? I mean, if you have a metal lathe you could turn a big chunk of aluminum (very expensive..) or just a block of hard wood such a oak, etc. and make it. It should not be a problem if the wood is hard and can fend off damage from the pressure and it would be very cheap to make. almost any size bend you want. Add a bottom base and screw it onto your work bench when you need it. The other idea I had was just buy (fleamarket/craigslist) some cheap V-Groove Belt pulley/wheels that have the same shaft hole size, grab a small steel plate, weld a shaft on it ve
  8. Tweeds, hey what can I say? You were right on the money with that tool. Simple to use, no issues. Did not eve try the other type that I have since I did not want to waste time and definitely not waste line once I had it in place, isolated and secured....Thank you for the advice. Also, thanks to all who have provided input which I will follow. I will try to bleed the MC first, then I may just redo the wheels, and try again. I will also check for leaks. If I cant fix it, I will remove the booster and either make my own reaction disk if it is missing, redo the booster push rod adju
  9. Activities: Front to back Brake Line replacement, Rear Handbrake cable replaced, Clutch Line replaced due to visible wear and tear, MC pressure retention valve, remove & replace speedometer cable. MC Pressure retention valves were seen in both MC orifices. The one servicing the disk brakes was removed. Clutch Line Replacement: No problem, Adequately bled it afterwards. Clutch functions well. Rear Handbrake Cable: One heck of a job. Because of dual exhaust, and drive shaft were in place, this is one *itch of task. No room to maneuver. However it got done. May still nee
  10. 240z70

    SpinTech Muffler

    " An aggressive street muffler for the performance enthusiast where clearance and space issues need to be addressed and want a quieter sound." An aggressive street muffler with a quieter sound? Yeah it didnt make sense to me either when I read it...Aggressive usually means louder an possibly raspier, but quieter?? Interesting. I also do like the sound, but what I am trying to find is one that was installed in the 240Z. The sound would be a lot different than one on a V*...That is why i asked the question.
  11. Question: Is there a free/paid service where a currently REGISTERED Z owner can obtain all the history on on his/her own 240z down to the point of when it was first sold in the USA? Info: When it was first sold State/City Owner (maybe not due to privacy concerns-understandable) Every other time it was sold/bought/registered along with city/state. I don't think DMV in California provides that info. Or does it? Does any agency in any state do that?
  12. Has anyone installed a SPINTECH Low profile 3000XLF Sportsman muffler on their Z without any resonators? If so, what did it sound like and do you know what the decibels on it were? https://spintechmufflers.com/3000xlf-sportsman-low-profile-muffler/ I looked extensively for some info, but the only thing I found were installations on non-240z vehicles which obviously will have a totally different sound and decibel numbers. Thanks for any info.
  13. Issue: I need to install the A-Pillar. I know that it is glued on, however how does the edge trimming look like? Is it just glued on, or doe it have the metal trim on one or both of its edges? Progress: I bought: the A-Pillar kit, the Glue (Contact liquid and Spray), and I also have the metal strip. Have looked at pictures online, but cant really tell if the material is just glued on with the edges rolled over and glued or if it has the metal trim on the edges. Can anyone send me good pictures of both the top and the sides so I can see what it is supposed to look like?
  14. "OBVIOUS'ly CAPTAIN, I surely will try not to forget it...It would be detrimental to the success of the project...Wasted time, effort, and material. Thanks for the reminder. It would suck to forget that part of it..
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