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  1. True Right Hand Drive Datsun 240z from Japan (foreign VIN plate to prove it), otherwise known as the Nissan Fairlady Z. Let me make it clear that great lengths have been taken to ensure no rust in this car. It's all steel and completely straight. 2.8L engine with triple Mikuni carbs, a 5 speed transmission, R200 rear, 3 core aluminum radiator. Brand new paint job completed August 2016 in correct original Orange 918. Disc brakes on every wheel with red calipers, rear kit is brand new. Brand new fully stainless steel exhaust. Brand new coilover suspension from TechnoToy Tuning. Brand new white interior including door panels and dog legs with heat-bonded chrome strip (4 months to make on a custom order). Brand new carpet, custom made for Right Hand Drive arrangement. Brand new weatherstripping kit. 1 key car. Original steering wheel completely restored. Brand new horn button with BLUE color Z emblem (JDM). Brand new from Nissan chrome lining strips for windshield and rear hatch, installed. Brand new exterior chrome door handles from Nissan. Brand new chrome bullet fender mirrors. Brand new exterior door window chrome mouldings. Brand new sound deafening and vibration reducing Dynamat installed on the entire floor and doors. Brand new Nissan Gas Cap. Alpine head unit with Sony amps and Sub ready to be installed. Gas tank was fully restored a year ago. Grille has been restored. Front AND Rear bumpers are included, although not pictured. Miscellaneous interior pieces are almost all there - arm rests, window cranks, window mechanisms, sunvisors, seats. No glass is missing. Clean CA title in hand. There is not much left to complete the project; this will make someone an amazing car. Please note that I am selling this car AS IS, and it has been sitting for some time. MAKE ME AN OFFER PLEASE, or check it out on eBay - just search for "Datsun 240z RHD JDM Nissan Fairlady Z 1972"
  2. Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock! Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler KVID0467.mp4 KVID0466.mp4 KVID0864.mp4
  3. A game-changer marks its golden anniversary: Datsun’s Z celebrates 50 years Kurt Ernst on Mar 6th, 2019 at 8am SHARE DATSUN 240Z FOR SALE 1971 Datsun 240Z. Photography by Jeff Koch, unless otherwise noted. By the end of the 1960s, Japanese automakers struggled to overcome the perception among U.S. buyers that their wares were little more than transportation appliances. In October 1969, Datsun debuted a GT coupe at the Tokyo Motor Show, designed with American consumers in mind, and in short order the 240Z rewrote the book on what an affordable sports car could be. In 2019, the Datsun Z will mark its 50th anniversary, an achievement that will be recognized with a dedicated Z Car class at the 2019 Hemmings Motor News Concours d’Elegance. The Datsun Z wasn’t the first aspirational sport coupe produced by a Japanese carmaker, an honor that would instead go to the 1967 Toyota 2000GT. Built under contract by Yamaha, which also handled much of the 2000GT’s design, the Toyota was a halo car meant to help the automaker shed its conservative image. It worked, with American magazines of the day heaping praise on the coupe, which carried an aluminum body and came powered by a Yamaha-tuned, double overhead-camshaft 2.0-liter inline six, rated at 148 hp. It also carried a hefty price tag of $7,150, considerably more than a new Corvette coupe ($4,353), a Porsche 911 ($5,990), or a Jaguar E-type ($5,580). Combined with its diminutive size (including an overall height of just 45.7 inches), the 2000GT proved a tough sell globally, but particularly in the U.S. market where just 62 were imported out of 351 produced. The Toyota 2000GT and the later Datsun 240Z have more in common than a country of origin. What would eventually become the Toyota coupe began life as a potential Yamaha sports car project for Nissan, styled with input from Count Albrecht Goertz, the designer responsible for the BMW 507. When Nissan changed its mind on the project, Yamaha shopped it to Toyota, which revised the design with feedback from its own styling department, notably Satoru Nozaki. The Goertz concept, which Nissan referred to as project A550X, clearly influenced the overall shape of the 240Z, but Yutaka Katayama — known to American fans as “Mr. K” — long insisted that Goertz was not the designer of the 240Z. Instead, that honor belongs to Nissan’s Yoshihiko Matsuo. Mr. K with a Datsun 240Z. Photo courtesy Nissan Motor Corporation. Katayama was president of Nissan Motor Corporation USA when the Z was under development, and lobbied the car’s designers and engineers in Japan to consider the needs and wants of prospective U.S. buyers. Long before Mazda used Jinba Ittai (essentially, “a horse and rider as one”) as a marketing slogan for the Miata, Katayama lobbied Nissan’s engineers to adopt a similar philosophy with the 240Z. He coached the development team that the car must be light, be equipped with sufficient power, and have exceptional handling, yet still be affordable within its market segment. The Datsun 240Z was a potent road racer, as demonstrated by Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE). Photo by Chris Brewer. The car was introduced in its home market as the Fairlady Z, a name that Mr. K knew would not help sales in the United States. Instead, he adopted “240” in deference to the car’s 2.4-liter displacement, adding the “Z” suffix reportedly because it was easy to pronounce in multiple languages, and could denote many things. Internally, the car had been referred to as the Type Z during development, another factor than may have influenced Katayama’s naming convention. The 240Z even proved itself in rally competition. Photo courtesy Nissan Motor Corporation. The Datsun 240Z arrived on these shores in late 1969, as a 1970 model. Power came from a single overhead-camshaft, 2,394-cc inline-six with seven main bearings rated at 151 horsepower and 146 lb-ft of torque, mated to a four-speed manual transmission. In a June 1970 test, Car and Driver found the 2,330-pound car capable of running from 0-60 mph in 7.8 seconds, on the way to an observed top speed of 109 mph. A fully independent suspension and 51/49 front-to-rear weight distribution ensured the handling balance Katayama sought, while power-assisted front disc and finned rear drum brakes ensured fade-free stops. Perhaps the biggest selling point, however, was the sticker price of $3,526, which positioned the Datsun in between the MGB GT ($3,260) and the Porsche 914 ($3,595). Introduced in 1974, the Datsun 260Z also came in a 2+2 variant. This example once belonged to Mr. K. Photo by Chris Brewer. Even before they had a chance to drive it, Road & Track declared the 240Z, “… a bargain, too. Who else offers a GT coupe with a 2.4-liter SOHC 6-cyl engine and all-independent suspension for $3500?” Despite this praise, engineering editor Ron Wakefield cautioned readers, “Our experience with other Datsuns to date tells us it won’t be assembled with the precision of a German car nor will it have the fine edge of “feel” found in the Italians — but the same package produced in either of those countries would undoubtedly cost $1,000 to $2,000 more. We think Datsun has a real winner.” The Datsun 280Z debuted in 1975. Wakefield’s prediction, and Mr. K’s intuition, proved correct. The Datsun 240Z was sold from 1970-’73, and during this time U.S. buyers snapped up 148,115 examples (of 168,584 built in total). By way of comparison, Datsun’s prior sports car offering in the U.S. market, the Roadster, sold 44,152 examples over the course of 10 years, from 1960-’70. 1976 Datsun 280Z brochure image. Scan from the collection of Mark J. McCourt. To counter the car’s growing weight and declining horsepower due to increasing emissions controls, Datsun upped the displacement in 1974 by increasing the stroke from 73 mm to 79 mm. The revised engine now measured 2,565 cc, and hence the car was renamed as the 260Z. Though sold for just 18 months, the 260Z debuted a 2+2 variant and gained improvements such as a rear anti-roll bar, firmer springs, a stronger steering rack, electronic ignition, a supplemental electric fuel pump, and an improved shifter mechanism. Output (now measured in net horsepower instead of gross) was 139 hp. and for the first time, U.S. buyers could opt for an automatic transmission. The 280ZX debuted in 1978. Shown here is a Japanese market 2+2. Photo courtesy Nissan Motor Corporation. In 1975, displacement grew again, this time by increasing the cylinder bore from 83.0 mm to 86.1 mm to yield 2,754 cc and the 280Z name. Fuel injection replaced carburetion, improving driveability and upping output to 149 hp and 163 lb-ft of torque, and U.S. buyers could opt for a five-speed manual transmission in addition to the four-speed manual and three-speed automatic. The car grew more luxurious during this period, too, with several special editions that foretold the car’s next evolution, as the S130 280ZX in 1978. Introduced in 1984, the 300ZX emphasized luxury over sport. Photo courtesy Nissan Motor Corporation. Nissan stayed the course with the Z car in the United States through 1996, when falling demand and a strengthening yen prompted the discontinuation of the Z32 300ZX. After teasing a new 240Z concept in 1998 and revising it for the 1999 auto show season, Nissan even kicked off a program selling refurbished 240Zs through selected dealers (with limited success), but in 2002, after a six-year absence, the Z returned to the showroom, this time as the 350Z. The Z32 platform 300ZX was sold in the U.S. market from 1990 to ’96. Photo courtesy Nissan Motor Corporation. Today, a 370Z remains in Nissan’s lineup, though falling sports car sales may once again doom the model to extinction. Even Mr. K, who died in 2015 at the age of 105, could not have predicted just how successful the model he guided through production was to become. The 2019 Hemmings Motor News Concours d’Elegance, taking place September 13-15 in Lake George, New York, will feature a class dedicated to the 1970-’73 240Z, 1974 260Z, 1975-’78 280Z, and 1979-’83 280ZX. We’re still actively seeking entries in the Datsun Z class, so if you’ve got a stock, concours-quality example and can attend, please contact either Kurt Ernst (kernst@hemmings.com) or Matthew Litwin (mlitwin@hemmings.com). Related calendar event - This article has been republished on https://www.classiczcars.com with permission from Kurt Ernst from Hemmings Daily, a publication of Hemmings Motor News - Original article = https://www.hemmings.com/blog/?p=1049177
  4. Hi everybody! Thanks a lot for yor feed-back. I’ve got some news and that’s why I’m here again. Last Tuesday I went to Mr.vitorino shop and started do dismantle the Z…honestly I thought it was a dificult task, but it wasn’t…well, only in some little details. The ca ris in excellent shape as photos will show…I guess this car was restored or deep painted some years ago. Next week We’ll have at least one door rebuilt, below the doors and inside need some intervention. Here are some photos… Rear window acquisition…the car has the horizontal defrost lines and aren’t the correct…I found one vertical and job done…a few years ago I bought one in the USA and came broken…never bought or find anoter one..they are getting rare this days!!! The beggining… Door parts ready for the treatment…Nickel plating Rear floor…not bad!!! I got scared, but fortunately the brown zone is glue…no rust… Door ready for Mr.Vitorino! Original floor carpet…but has to be removed!!! Rear luggage accomodation in excelente shape And now the surprise…the original blue…It can only be seen on some detailed parts..this is one! Replacemente tyre floor…not bad…no rust… The seats will be rédone, but I will only take care of the parts that are completely off… No plastic cover…but I have 2 here…offered by a mate!!! Passenger side floor…the usual…46 years and some bad treatment…the reason…the jack tool…but Mr.vitorino said that’s a part to be redone… Drivers side floor…the usual again…but this one has no concerns…ist’s 75% good…a little intevention. By the end we will apply some Soundproofing board to avoid rust and noise. My helper keeping all the bolts in place! Under the plate no surprises!!!! Datsun logo temporarily off… In my opinion this s the exact moment to restore the car…it has some details that need intervention, and now that he has no rust holes and unrestorable parts the process will be much easier. Hope you like it…next week some more news!!! Regards Mário
  5. Found this over at Petrolicious, a very good read!! https://petrolicious.com/articles/this-datsun-roadster-has-a-new-heart-and-quite-a-few-stories-to-tell The Datsun Roadster: a truly overlooked gem in the grand scheme of classic, Japanese metal. When you think of Datsun, chances are you envision a 240Z, or a 510. The Roadster remains generally overshadowed. It is what I would call a niche car, and has cult followings comparable to those formed around other cars like the BMW Z3 M Coupe. This may seem like an odd comparison, but the two followings have much shared between them: members of these niches share the qualities of undying loyalty, an almost impossible amount of stored info and obscure facts, and a genuine, unwavering adoration for the cars. Read on by clicking link above...
  6. Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
  7. I have a 1977 280z with running issues. What's wrong is that when I start the car, it cranks over fine and will start fine but after the initial start it will immediately bog down and either die or run on like 3-4 cylinders :sick: It helps tons when I push the AFM in about 25% of the way, but If I let it go on its own the car sputters and bogs down again or dies. With the AFM pushed on full (the top cover is off) I can slowly push the car up to a fairly high rpm, 5000 or so, but I can't seem to do quick revs or the car will backfire even with it in all the way. Here are some of the things I've replaced: -New cap and plug wires (with relatively new plugs; they're NGK, don't worry) -New fuel filter -New seals for the fuel injectors -New fuel regulator -New coil Here are some things I've done: -Cleaned the fuel lines -Set the timing -Tested the fuel pump (It works and puts out about 36 pounds of pressure between the new filter and the rail) -Tried a different ECU and a different AFM (Both came with the car and both give the same results) -I did do a compression test awhile ago and everything was fine, and I should be able to do another compression test tomorrow afternoon -I checked to see if the injectors work by taking them fully out of the car starting it and see them all work correctly -I did check the voltage of the clips going to each of the fuel injectors and those all work fine -I checked the points in the ECU that go to both the AFM and the fuel injectors both also came out fine -I checked the electrics in the AFM itself and everything seems fine (it's also possible to hear the fuel pump working when the AFM is puched in slightly) If anyone has an idea of what might be going on please reply, I feel like by now everything should be working at least sort of correctly. I'm at the point where digging into my pocket and sending it to a mechanics shop or buying a Megasquirt system would be better than wasting anymore time on it. Would maybe replacing the whole AFM do me any good? Could it be a bad sensor sending a bad signal to the ECU? I appreciate anyone's input! ZDrummerGuy is online now Report Post Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
  8. Not sure if this was posted before here, but found it on youtube. Some part is about the 240Z as well.
  9. First time I was able to get to a swap meet early on day 1, payed off with some dealer swag. Eldon Vories Motors, in Walla Walla WA. I started a FB page Dave Zeparta, (clever name right). I despise FB and it's tracking, It can still be a useful tool for staying in touch. I posted the pics there to get some traffic. https://www.facebook.com/dave.zeparta.3 Friend requests welcome. Picked up some NOS to sell too, only one Z car part though. a FI relay for a 75-77 280.
  10. Not only is this my first post in this forum, this is will also my first Datsun, and also my first car! It has a well documented 83k, starts right up, drives great, and has rust on the passenger side wheel arch and a bit on the driver door sill. It hasnt been driven much in the past few years and I would like to get it up to daily driver status. Ill have to travel at least 15 miles a day or 28 miles at most (round trip). What should I be checking/replacing to ensure reliability and healthy driving? Are there specific parts that commonly fail on these cars, or should I just bring it to Meineke to have it inspected? Cant wait to pick it up tomorrow!
  11. Version


    1981 280zx Factory Service Manual AND Turbo Supplement


  12. Version


    1979 280zx Factory Service Manual


  13. Hey guys! First off, I was so happy to have received such a warm welcome to classiczcar from my first intro thread. I'm really glad you guys enjoy the car, and I'm going to do my best to keep consistently updating on my progress! So, here's what I did yesterday. (Get ready for a lot of words.) If you didn't read my intro post, you missed some info. Basically, when I brought the car home from Oregon, I was unable to get it back to the Bay Area that same night. I was fortunate enough to be able to leave it at my friend's shop in Sacramento (known online as CAtuned) to be able to work on it until I got the kinks worked out. The first day we went to work, we rebuilt the dual Webers. I really don't have a lot of history on these carbs, and the previous owner didn't tell me when they were installed, so I figured a rebuild definitely couldn't hurt. They also needed a good cleaning, since when we were struggling to make it up a mountain pass on the way out of Oregon, the car ultimately died on the side of the road after backfiring and sputtering incessantly. I had never rebuilt a carburetor in my life, so it was a learning experience. But it was successful! After the rebuild, we couldn't get the car to run right. It started and idled just fine, but under throttle, it spit flames from the carbs. Not good. After some observation, we started to think that it was more of a timing issue than a carb issue. I had failed to check the timing initially, so that was my fault. But at this point, we had been working in the hot Sacramento weather for almost nine hours, so we were ready to call it a day. When we returned yesterday, we brought with us a timing light and some faith. The battery had died since we'd last started it, so we hooked it up to a charger to get it started. However, when we got it started, there was an immediate knocking coming from the motor. I felt my heart sink, and my friends and I looked at each other and all said, "Oh ****." It basically sounded like an awful rod knock. We listened all over the motor, down to the oil pan, but there was nothing out of the ordinary. Just this stupid knocking coming from somewhere in the front right of the engine bay (from my pov in the driver's seat). Under throttle, it sped up, but then seemed to go away at around 2k rpms. We figured if it was a rod knock, the damage was done, so there was nothing we could do. We ended up advancing the timing just a tad, and that fixed the entire backfiring issue. The carbs were probably fine from the start, but now I have rebuilt carbs and a solid running motor, so I'm happy. But the knocking was still there. When my boyfriend went to flip the off switch on the battery charger, the knocking immediately went away. We all stopped for a second and just stared at each other. He flipped the charger back on, and the knocking came back. We laughed hysterically, and mostly out of relief that it wasn't a rod knocking in my motor. Has anyone ever encountered anything like this before? We had no idea what could cause something so weird. There's absolutely zero ticking/knocking from the motor now. After that, we went on a test drive. Everything went smoothly, and the car ran great. No backfiring, no sputtering, and no hesitation like before. I did notice that the throttle hangs up just a tiny bit, but it's nothing major and doesn't really affect the drivability. I'll address that next. I decided that it was time to bring her back home to the Bay. I wasn't 100% confident to bring her on an hour and a half trip of all freeway. After waiting a short while for the tow truck, we were on our way. All in all, it was a really successful day, and I'm beyond stoked to have Pumpkin home. (The blue 510 below is my boyfriend's.)
  14. Version


    1977 280z Factory Service Manual


  15. Hello guys! I'm new to this forum and recently new to the datsun world I purchased a 1981 280zx datsun that has been sitting outside a barn for about 4-6 years and since it still had the engine I decided to see if I can get it running before I even consider swapping the same l28e or if I get lucky the l28et. The first things I did was: change the oil, replace the fuel filter flush tank and replace gasoline (regular) replaced battery with terminals flush and replace coolant, spark plug wires (all in correct firing order) change ngk spark plugs (gaped .42 and added oil in each cylinder for lubrication) I cranked it with no luck, I heard the oil pump running loudly but decided to use starter fluid. Once started fluid was sprayed and the engine was cranked and the engine started and was running on starter fluid so my next steps were: clean injectors clean fuel rail replace o rings and insulation I cranked it again without starter fluid and it only cranked but didnt start. So I did a compression test and numbers were 140, 145, 145, 140,145, 155 so compression is pretty good being that 180psi is like new. I removed the fuel return line and cranked the engine and gasoline came rushing out, I tested the spark and its a blue with white tint, engine sounds like it wants to start so timing is good (?), exhaust smells like gasoline and has pulses, and it still doesnt want to start. Each time i remove the spark plugs after attempting to start it, i can see a little wetness on the tip and it smells like gas. It started once with starter fluid but now it just doesnt want to even with it. What do you guys think can be the problem? thank you!
  16. Hope you fellow S30 Z fans enjoy these old advertisements as much as I did.
  17. Version


    1973 240z Factory Service Manual


  18. Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.
  19. Version


    1982 280zx Factory Service Manual


  20. One of Japan’s most iconic cars is making a comeback. A descendant of the game-changing 240Z that debuted in 1969, an all-new Z car (code-named Z35) will honor the legendary Datsun with a stylized 21st-century interpretation of the original’s long nose, short deck, and perfect proportions. That first Z was designed to appeal to buyers in its main market of the United States, and the new model will be no different. Just get a load of one artist’s vision of the dynamic silhouette. While the car will feature a low-slung, swooping body, it will be downsized from the current 370Z to dimensions that resemble the original’s. That means the car will lose around 2 inches in width from the current 72.6 inches. Our insider mentions that lightweight high-tensile steel will be used to further reduce the car’s curb weight by up to 420 pounds to a class-leading 2866 pounds. According to a source close to Nissan, the Z35 will be powered by a choice of V-6 and four-cylinder engines at first. Company bosses want to phase out the V-6, though a small but strong fan base might lead engineers to retain it. Nissan feels that it has to “wean” the motoring public off the six cylinder, which has been its mainstay powerplant since the very beginning, and switch to a more fuel-efficient four. We are told that the new four-cylinder will be a 2.5-liter turbo unit and incorporate direct injection to make at least 330 hp. But our insider explains that Nissan bosses are concerned about fuel economy and CO2 emissions, a fact that will almost certainly force them to reduce power to around 280 hp. For a gutsier Z, we can look to the company’s in-house tuning arm Nismo, which is rumored to be working on a 330-plus-hp model. The Z33 of 2002 was a big hit and its low-$30,000s price tag helped it drive out showroom doors. With the Z34, Nissan created a good-looking, sharp-handling coupe, but by Nissan targeting rivals in the BMW Z4, Porsche Cayman, and Audi TT, the price went into the low $40,000s and hurt sales. The new Z35 must pick up where the Z33 left off and reinvent the Z car all over again. That means downsizing while creating a compelling design and minimizing its sticker price. And employing four-cylinder turbos will do the brand no harm in lowering prices, CO2, and fuel consumption. We can expect to see the Z concept unveiled at the Detroit auto show in January. The final production version should debut one year later at the same show with a price tag starting under $30,000. Credit: http://www.motortrend.com/news/new-nissan-z-car-code-named-z35-in-pipline/
  21. Brock Racing Enterprises Announces BRE Reunion & Datsun Car Show Be sure to mark your calendars and plan to attend! Febrary 20, 2016 At The Newly Remodeled Petersen Automotive Museum 606 Wilshire Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90036 Spend the morning with the BRE Team in two separate events! This is it! It is actually happening! All The guys together at one time! Mark your calendars for this Historic Datsun Event! February 20, 2016 at the Petersen Automotive Museum It’s the BRE Reunion and Datsun Car Show! Your Datsuns will be judge for Best in Class, Awards will be handed out by the BRE Team members! Then it’s time to go inside for the Official BRE Reunion. Log onto www.nostalgicdatsun.com or you can see the flyer here: http://the-chaplain.com/bre-reunion Visit the BRE Event page here: https://ww04.elbowspace.com/secure/20141125105225142432
  22. Hello everyone I am needing a 1982 280zx turbo AFM, wire loom and ecu. I have a 1975 280z that has an '82 turbo transplant. Problem is that the air to fuel ratio gets lean at higher rpm's. Which is why my pistons are melting and broken:tapemouth. So I figure this may be the best solution, unless someone here has a better idea with what I have to work with. Note, I have not look hard into mega squirt yet. but lets start here first. Thanks. Big Al.
  23. Hello! Back in the day, I had a 1970 Datsun Fairlady Z. Great car, now a memory, but I've got the original engine and I'm not sure what to do with it. I pulled it out to do modifications and put in an L28 and get smog'd and some speed. Now, I hate to waste the opportunity for someone that might want an original engine (in an original condition), for their show car. Any suggestions from the community? Thanks!
  24. Gday! New to the forum so if i am posting in the wrong section, please forgive me. I have done lots of homework and have been looking all through the forums to build an idea, so this isn't my first stop Really keen on finally getting a start on my Z car dream, just worried my ambitions are getting in the way. Local bloke here in Florida has a gutted 75 280z for 1500: generally rough in most factors, but is rust free and the body is pretty clean. She has no engine, just a P30 block / E88 Head... I'm confident everything else is mechanically sound with the trans, suspension etc... What can I expect to pay to get her back on the road? ie: Replacing the engine here in Florida. Please give me a ballpark figure of common turbo-engine swaps. I would like the SR20DET or something strong enough to slaughter my arch-enemy's stock 370z... but I am sure an L28 could do the job. Is it reliable to buy a complete engine from craigslist? Would anybody fit it if I brought it to them with my 280z? I see there are tons of complete engines all over craigslist for good prices, is this a good place to start? Will respect and appreciate your wisdom!!! Please don't send me to Hybridz.org, already reading through the forums. Thanks !!!
  25. Version


    1976 280z Factory Service Manual


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