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About My Cars

Found 77 results

  1. Moving next month, so time to let go of some parts that I know will not be applicable with the direction the build is heading. All prices are negotiable. Listed prices do not include shipping. We will discuss once I can provide you an estimate. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for looking! I tried to give two pictures per item (pictures will follow in response). Prices are as follows. ECU x2: $70 each PENDING Rearview Mirror x2 (one in good condition, second needs refurbishing on rear side): $10/5 respectively ONE SOLD (good condition mirror) Datsun Horn Pad (scratches around bezel): $5 Coin Tray (good condition, has expected oxidation): $3 SOLD Antenna Assembly: $15 SOLD Dash Air Vent (finish peeling around adjustment lever): $10 Driver's Side Armrest, Black: $15 PENDING 1977/78 Tachometer: $60 1977/78 Complete Speedometer with sensor: $60 1977/78 Fuel Gauge/Volt Meter x2: $30 each BOTH SOLD Water Temp/Oil Temp x2 (One is '75/76, one is '77/78): $30 each Clock: $20 PENDING Turn Signal Actuator: $40 PENDING Lights/Wiper Actuator x2 (one 75/maybe 76, will confirm, other 77/78): $50 each Air/AC/Heater Control Mechanism: $15 Bosch Fuel Dampner: $50 Center Console Vent/Light Piece (w/ Floor and Fuel Indicators): $20 SOLD Interior Panel, Black, Rear Hatch Tail Light cover: $15 SOLD Wind Shield Wipers x2 (Chrome Pair and Black Pair): $5 per pair Interior Door Handle Chrome Brackets (minor oxidation): $10 for pair Exterior Front Fender Indicator Lights (amber): $15 PENDING Exterior Rear Fender Indicator Lights (red): $15 PENDING 4Spd Shift Knob (black leather green face, with spare face): $15 Emergency brake leather cover, Black: $5 SOLD Wiper motor: $5 SOLD Evap Canister (normal wear and tear): $3 SOLD Rubber Intake hose with connectors (confirming application, possible ZX): $5 Blower Assembly: $40 SOLD Mark Ten B CDI System (unused with all documents and packaging): $40 77/78 Front Door Cards, Black with Silver/Woodgrain (some minor peeling along ends with chrome) : $70 for pair PENDING Updated 9 Jan 10:00pm (EST). Thank you again! -Chris
  2. 240z70

    PARTS WANTED

    Looking for these parts: Throttle lever and Knob 240z door springs -(springs only) Functional Volt Gauge Let me know if you have it and if so how much to buy it - shipping included- to San Jose California USA If you need parts, also let me know.. I have some misc. available.
  3. Hi everybody! Thanks a lot for yor feed-back. I’ve got some news and that’s why I’m here again. Last Tuesday I went to Mr.vitorino shop and started do dismantle the Z…honestly I thought it was a dificult task, but it wasn’t…well, only in some little details. The ca ris in excellent shape as photos will show…I guess this car was restored or deep painted some years ago. Next week We’ll have at least one door rebuilt, below the doors and inside need some intervention. Here are some photos… Rear window acquisition…the car has the horizontal defrost lines and aren’t the correct…I found one vertical and job done…a few years ago I bought one in the USA and came broken…never bought or find anoter one..they are getting rare this days!!! The beggining… Door parts ready for the treatment…Nickel plating Rear floor…not bad!!! I got scared, but fortunately the brown zone is glue…no rust… Door ready for Mr.Vitorino! Original floor carpet…but has to be removed!!! Rear luggage accomodation in excelente shape And now the surprise…the original blue…It can only be seen on some detailed parts..this is one! Replacemente tyre floor…not bad…no rust… The seats will be rédone, but I will only take care of the parts that are completely off… No plastic cover…but I have 2 here…offered by a mate!!! Passenger side floor…the usual…46 years and some bad treatment…the reason…the jack tool…but Mr.vitorino said that’s a part to be redone… Drivers side floor…the usual again…but this one has no concerns…ist’s 75% good…a little intevention. By the end we will apply some Soundproofing board to avoid rust and noise. My helper keeping all the bolts in place! Under the plate no surprises!!!! Datsun logo temporarily off… In my opinion this s the exact moment to restore the car…it has some details that need intervention, and now that he has no rust holes and unrestorable parts the process will be much easier. Hope you like it…next week some more news!!! Regards Mário
  4. jdmfairlady21

    FS: 1974 Datsun 260z

    Up for sale is a 1974 Datsun 260z. Bought it two years ago with plans on fully rebuilding it to a period correct build. Like most stories, life got in the way and rather it go to someone that has the time and finances to get this automobile to proper running condition and be used. This is the best info I can give regarding the car.... Bought it from a man in Georgia and had it shipped up to NY. Original owner was in Tampa, Florida as per title history. 2nd owner rebuilt / refreshed engine to oem specs besides being bored out .20 over. Vehicle runs if you spray starter fluid on the intake. It is equipped with triple Weber carbs. Besides the usual maintenance that it will need, I believe it needs a bigger fuel pump, carb maintenance and reworking the throttle and choke cable. Otherwise, new tires and fluids. I don't see rust on the usual areas but I never got to dig around the car too much. Been busy working and never got to it. Now the business requires I pick up a truck, hence the car being up for sale. I can provide towing prices, just need an address. Vehicle is located in Oceanside, NY 11572. Best contact would be via email alex (at) realautodynamics.com Would like to get my initial money back, $8k for the car. Thanks!
  5. Found this over at Petrolicious, a very good read!! https://petrolicious.com/articles/this-datsun-roadster-has-a-new-heart-and-quite-a-few-stories-to-tell The Datsun Roadster: a truly overlooked gem in the grand scheme of classic, Japanese metal. When you think of Datsun, chances are you envision a 240Z, or a 510. The Roadster remains generally overshadowed. It is what I would call a niche car, and has cult followings comparable to those formed around other cars like the BMW Z3 M Coupe. This may seem like an odd comparison, but the two followings have much shared between them: members of these niches share the qualities of undying loyalty, an almost impossible amount of stored info and obscure facts, and a genuine, unwavering adoration for the cars. Read on by clicking link above...
  6. FairAbrocoma

    280z Starting help

    Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
  7. 1982 Datsun/Nissan 280ZX. 102,000 miles. A true "survivor" car. Original paint, original interior with no rips, tears or cracks. Original engine. Absolutely NO RUST. Close to $8,000 invested less than 4K miles ago. New power antenna, new steering rack, new brakes (calipers and rotors), new belts and hoses, new fuel injectors, new shocks and struts, new rubber bushings, new power window motor (passenger side), new wiper blades, new battery, new windshield washer motor. Any electrical problems all repaired. Compression excellent on all cylinders (approximately 170#). This car has been well cared for - always garaged. Willing to provide paperwork from mechanic to verify all work done. Asking $10,500 OBO
  8. ROBERTWILLIAM

    1971 Datsun Z-Series 240Z

    1971 Datsun Z-Series 240Z On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Z-Series-240Z/263919315561?
  9. ROBERTWILLIAM

    1972 Datsun 240Z

    1972 Datsun 240Z On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z/173506740555?
  10. Washington state I purchased this Z new in April 1978; original interior in excellent condition, original engine and drive train all working well. All gauges and controls work; paint is decent for being 40 years old, has some mostly coin sized rust spots but none in the wheel wells, foot wells or spare tire area. More info. at the CL listing, see link. 211k miles, price 13000 negotiable. CL listing: seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/1978-datsun-280z-by-original/6668644145.html
  11. jdking

    Field-Find 3 Datsun 240Zs

    Where: Southern New Jersey. USA I have 3 pretty rotten but complete(mostly) 240Z cars. The two yellow ones are both early 1970 models. The silver is a 1972. I have both front fenders/wings and grill. All are manual trans and have complete stock drive trains. They have been sitting out in the New Jersey elements for over 25 years. I also have a couple of doors, hatches, a hood, and brand new front fender/wings that are in a dry storage container. I have a few spare blocks, heads, transmissions, rear diffs, etc. I would like to sell this as one complete deal. If I had time I'd just break apart the cars and sell the parts myself, but that is not a project I need right now. I think the lot is worth $5,000 but I'm open to options, ideas, trades. Only contact me if you are truly interested. Thanks, JD
  12. mklyons

    Dashboard Repair Guide

    Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark
  13. bartsscooterservice

    Datsun promotional film vintage

    Not sure if this was posted before here, but found it on youtube. Some part is about the 240Z as well.
  14. 240260280z

    1979 280zx Factory Service Manual

    Version

    14 downloads

    1979 280zx Factory Service Manual

    Free

  15. misscourtneymae

    Pumpkin Update: SHE'S HOME!

    Hey guys! First off, I was so happy to have received such a warm welcome to classiczcar from my first intro thread. I'm really glad you guys enjoy the car, and I'm going to do my best to keep consistently updating on my progress! So, here's what I did yesterday. (Get ready for a lot of words.) If you didn't read my intro post, you missed some info. Basically, when I brought the car home from Oregon, I was unable to get it back to the Bay Area that same night. I was fortunate enough to be able to leave it at my friend's shop in Sacramento (known online as CAtuned) to be able to work on it until I got the kinks worked out. The first day we went to work, we rebuilt the dual Webers. I really don't have a lot of history on these carbs, and the previous owner didn't tell me when they were installed, so I figured a rebuild definitely couldn't hurt. They also needed a good cleaning, since when we were struggling to make it up a mountain pass on the way out of Oregon, the car ultimately died on the side of the road after backfiring and sputtering incessantly. I had never rebuilt a carburetor in my life, so it was a learning experience. But it was successful! After the rebuild, we couldn't get the car to run right. It started and idled just fine, but under throttle, it spit flames from the carbs. Not good. After some observation, we started to think that it was more of a timing issue than a carb issue. I had failed to check the timing initially, so that was my fault. But at this point, we had been working in the hot Sacramento weather for almost nine hours, so we were ready to call it a day. When we returned yesterday, we brought with us a timing light and some faith. The battery had died since we'd last started it, so we hooked it up to a charger to get it started. However, when we got it started, there was an immediate knocking coming from the motor. I felt my heart sink, and my friends and I looked at each other and all said, "Oh ****." It basically sounded like an awful rod knock. We listened all over the motor, down to the oil pan, but there was nothing out of the ordinary. Just this stupid knocking coming from somewhere in the front right of the engine bay (from my pov in the driver's seat). Under throttle, it sped up, but then seemed to go away at around 2k rpms. We figured if it was a rod knock, the damage was done, so there was nothing we could do. We ended up advancing the timing just a tad, and that fixed the entire backfiring issue. The carbs were probably fine from the start, but now I have rebuilt carbs and a solid running motor, so I'm happy. But the knocking was still there. When my boyfriend went to flip the off switch on the battery charger, the knocking immediately went away. We all stopped for a second and just stared at each other. He flipped the charger back on, and the knocking came back. We laughed hysterically, and mostly out of relief that it wasn't a rod knocking in my motor. Has anyone ever encountered anything like this before? We had no idea what could cause something so weird. There's absolutely zero ticking/knocking from the motor now. After that, we went on a test drive. Everything went smoothly, and the car ran great. No backfiring, no sputtering, and no hesitation like before. I did notice that the throttle hangs up just a tiny bit, but it's nothing major and doesn't really affect the drivability. I'll address that next. I decided that it was time to bring her back home to the Bay. I wasn't 100% confident to bring her on an hour and a half trip of all freeway. After waiting a short while for the tow truck, we were on our way. All in all, it was a really successful day, and I'm beyond stoked to have Pumpkin home. (The blue 510 below is my boyfriend's.)
  16. Not only is this my first post in this forum, this is will also my first Datsun, and also my first car! It has a well documented 83k, starts right up, drives great, and has rust on the passenger side wheel arch and a bit on the driver door sill. It hasnt been driven much in the past few years and I would like to get it up to daily driver status. Ill have to travel at least 15 miles a day or 28 miles at most (round trip). What should I be checking/replacing to ensure reliability and healthy driving? Are there specific parts that commonly fail on these cars, or should I just bring it to Meineke to have it inspected? Cant wait to pick it up tomorrow!
  17. ZDrummerGuy

    77 280z running like poop

    I have a 1977 280z with running issues. What's wrong is that when I start the car, it cranks over fine and will start fine but after the initial start it will immediately bog down and either die or run on like 3-4 cylinders :sick: It helps tons when I push the AFM in about 25% of the way, but If I let it go on its own the car sputters and bogs down again or dies. With the AFM pushed on full (the top cover is off) I can slowly push the car up to a fairly high rpm, 5000 or so, but I can't seem to do quick revs or the car will backfire even with it in all the way. Here are some of the things I've replaced: -New cap and plug wires (with relatively new plugs; they're NGK, don't worry) -New fuel filter -New seals for the fuel injectors -New fuel regulator -New coil Here are some things I've done: -Cleaned the fuel lines -Set the timing -Tested the fuel pump (It works and puts out about 36 pounds of pressure between the new filter and the rail) -Tried a different ECU and a different AFM (Both came with the car and both give the same results) -I did do a compression test awhile ago and everything was fine, and I should be able to do another compression test tomorrow afternoon -I checked to see if the injectors work by taking them fully out of the car starting it and see them all work correctly -I did check the voltage of the clips going to each of the fuel injectors and those all work fine -I checked the points in the ECU that go to both the AFM and the fuel injectors both also came out fine -I checked the electrics in the AFM itself and everything seems fine (it's also possible to hear the fuel pump working when the AFM is puched in slightly) If anyone has an idea of what might be going on please reply, I feel like by now everything should be working at least sort of correctly. I'm at the point where digging into my pocket and sending it to a mechanics shop or buying a Megasquirt system would be better than wasting anymore time on it. Would maybe replacing the whole AFM do me any good? Could it be a bad sensor sending a bad signal to the ECU? I appreciate anyone's input! ZDrummerGuy is online now Report Post Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
  18. 240260280z

    1977 280z Factory Service Manual

    Version

    19 downloads

    1977 280z Factory Service Manual

    Free

  19. Version

    59 downloads

    1981 280zx Factory Service Manual AND Turbo Supplement

    Free

  20. Terrapin Z

    Swap Meet items

    First time I was able to get to a swap meet early on day 1, payed off with some dealer swag. Eldon Vories Motors, in Walla Walla WA. I started a FB page Dave Zeparta, (clever name right). I despise FB and it's tracking, It can still be a useful tool for staying in touch. I posted the pics there to get some traffic. https://www.facebook.com/dave.zeparta.3 Friend requests welcome. Picked up some NOS to sell too, only one Z car part though. a FI relay for a 75-77 280.
  21. Hope you fellow S30 Z fans enjoy these old advertisements as much as I did.
  22. Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.
  23. One of Japan’s most iconic cars is making a comeback. A descendant of the game-changing 240Z that debuted in 1969, an all-new Z car (code-named Z35) will honor the legendary Datsun with a stylized 21st-century interpretation of the original’s long nose, short deck, and perfect proportions. That first Z was designed to appeal to buyers in its main market of the United States, and the new model will be no different. Just get a load of one artist’s vision of the dynamic silhouette. While the car will feature a low-slung, swooping body, it will be downsized from the current 370Z to dimensions that resemble the original’s. That means the car will lose around 2 inches in width from the current 72.6 inches. Our insider mentions that lightweight high-tensile steel will be used to further reduce the car’s curb weight by up to 420 pounds to a class-leading 2866 pounds. According to a source close to Nissan, the Z35 will be powered by a choice of V-6 and four-cylinder engines at first. Company bosses want to phase out the V-6, though a small but strong fan base might lead engineers to retain it. Nissan feels that it has to “wean” the motoring public off the six cylinder, which has been its mainstay powerplant since the very beginning, and switch to a more fuel-efficient four. We are told that the new four-cylinder will be a 2.5-liter turbo unit and incorporate direct injection to make at least 330 hp. But our insider explains that Nissan bosses are concerned about fuel economy and CO2 emissions, a fact that will almost certainly force them to reduce power to around 280 hp. For a gutsier Z, we can look to the company’s in-house tuning arm Nismo, which is rumored to be working on a 330-plus-hp model. The Z33 of 2002 was a big hit and its low-$30,000s price tag helped it drive out showroom doors. With the Z34, Nissan created a good-looking, sharp-handling coupe, but by Nissan targeting rivals in the BMW Z4, Porsche Cayman, and Audi TT, the price went into the low $40,000s and hurt sales. The new Z35 must pick up where the Z33 left off and reinvent the Z car all over again. That means downsizing while creating a compelling design and minimizing its sticker price. And employing four-cylinder turbos will do the brand no harm in lowering prices, CO2, and fuel consumption. We can expect to see the Z concept unveiled at the Detroit auto show in January. The final production version should debut one year later at the same show with a price tag starting under $30,000. Credit: http://www.motortrend.com/news/new-nissan-z-car-code-named-z35-in-pipline/
  24. 240260280z

    1982 280zx Factory Service Manual

    Version

    35 downloads

    1982 280zx Factory Service Manual

    Free

  25. 240260280z

    1973 240z Factory Service Manual

    Version

    56 downloads

    1973 240z Factory Service Manual

    Free

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