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  1. Please get a real web site. The great wall/iron curtain of facebook is a pain in the arse.
  2. I concur with Mike. You’ll have at least $20k-$25k sunk into that Z to renovate it. Maybe $10k-$15k sunk into it (including purchase price) just to make it a halfway reliable driver. I bought a ‘75 Z about 1 1/2 years ago in NorCal for $6700. No rust, except a little surface rust on the interior at the firewall and a bit on the underneath side of the car. It had been sitting for 16 or so years. Just to make it a reliable driver, it would’ve needed fuel lines replaced, gas tank cleaned, and new tires installed. Of course, I jumped right away into a major renovation of the car instead of just making it reliably roadworthy. 😁 Let’s just say it hasn’t been cheap. 😱
  3. I got an itch to acquire another Z last year... This car on Bring-a-Trailer got my attention and I couldn't let it go. A project car, the previous owner acquired most of the important rubber parts, a NOS dash, a bunch of spares, etc. and did very little to it other than keep it stored in his garage in the Denver CO area for over 25 years. Prior to that, it was in Arizona. So, having restored one Z which had a fair amount of rust, I was super excited to think about restoring one with next to none. I've been at it for a little over a year now, and so I have a pretty good amount of the work done. My hope is that within the next 12 months, I can complete the restoration. I've got lots of pics of progress so far, so, I'm also hoping I can post updates pretty regularly. Here are a few pics after it arrived in GA: The previous owner said he never started it. If true it hadn't run in over 25 years, but the engine turned over by hand. Before taking it apart, I wanted to see if I could get it running and then do compression and/or leak down tests to learn of its condition. I power washed the engine to get all of the dust and gunk off. Then I took the carburetor domes off and cleaned the domes, pistons, needles, inside the carbs, float chambers, etc. The "choke" was stuck in the on position (jet nozzles down) and carbon was caked on the inside of the carbs keeping the pistons from moving freely. Here's the engine after cleaning: Here is the clean engine after it dried. The distributor shaft had a lot of play, so I snagged the one from my other Z. Fuel lines were completely clogged, so I disconnected at the hard line coming into the engine bay. Fuel pump was gummed up, so I grabbed a spare mechanical one (once was on my other Z), and ran the rubber line down into a gas can. Oil in the engine seemed like oil, so I left it as is. After a few tries of the starter, I got it fired up. Still no coolant in the system, no radiator hoses, etc. I just did a quick sync on the carbs and got it running well enough to know that nothing catastrophic had happened to it. Here is a video after only a few minutes of tinkering with it. Next, I put radiator hoses on, put water in and other misc. things so I could run it for a while. I wanted to run it for a minimum of 30 minutes so I could do the compression check or leak down test. Here's another video. The exhaust is original Nissan parts (verified part numbers of center section and muffler), by the way... and very quiet. Garrett
  4. My other passion is Halloween and all things spooky and artistic. So I spend most of this year making these RC controlled tricycles. I did all the legally required stuff (patent, TM, etc.) Hopefully I can begin to get them to market this year. I was thinking you could even put a cooler of beer in one of the wagons and drive it around like a tailgate haha. I am grateful for any feedback, advice, critique, etc. I have 13 prototypes at the moment. And yes, I basically invented them and figured out how to do it. Which is a skill I learned by working on cars! RC Tricycles (Horror Trikes)
  5. More progress pics. Had to modify cross member to fit sump, will need swaybar redesign. New front pulley set up underway. Sump will be off next week to add trapdoors and windage tray and connectors. Will be putting in new bigger oil cooler. Shes well underway. Lots of swearing and moaning by my mechanic so that must be a good sign of progress.
  6. Some of you will remember me (LBO730 - Bryan) from a few years back for developing the reproduction early style shift boots, emergency brake boots etc. for the early Z cars. You guys gave me overwhelmingly great support on that project. I'm still doing lots of stuff in upholstery and leathercraft. You can see a photo of the leather interior I did in my 75 280 in my photos. I wanted to see if you guys think there would be any interest in good quality leather wallets, key fobs, belts, wrist cuffs, mouse pads, phone cases, guitar straps, coasters etc. and maybe even purses & totes for the Z crazy females, all of which would be customized with something Z related. IE "Z", 240Z, 300ZX or just about anything you could come up with. (Making sure not to violate any copyright laws) Ideas & suggestions from the Z community would be great. You can see some of the stuff I've done on Facebook at Brookland Leather Co. Let me hear from as many of you as possible as to whether you think this could be a successful idea. Thank in advance for your input!
  7. Hi all, I've launched another small change to the website. Our main forum page was getting quite 'textual' and I wanted to bring forward a little more usabilitty to the page. To accomplish this, I changed the style of the forum list to a 'card layout' style. This makes browsing the forums a little easier (for me at least) and somewhat enhances the usability of this area. Take a look next time you're browsing the main forum page. I'd appreciate some feedback if you have a few moments. If you absolutely dislike the new card layout, you can change it back by clicking the icon next to the "Start new topic" button in the upper right. If you have cookies enabled, the system will remember your choice. Here's a screenshot of the new change:
  8. This does look like a good deal. HOWEVER, be warned the condition of this car will likely chew through the rest of your budget and then some. You will likely spend more like another $10k-15k if you include bodywork and paint. Go into this project with a plan and you'll have a great time!
  9. I tightly zip tied mine then Gorilla Glued it. The trick for me was carfully engaging those 3 metal snap clips as you turn it into place. I don't use the horn button anymore. The middle finger works just fine out the window of a bright orange '72 car.
  10. Death by a thousand mods... Here’s a quick little mod to aid in cowl drainage and save the bulldog nose on the sill....
  11. 1 point
  12. Here we are on 24th October 2009, exactly forty years to the day after Nissan's new S30-series 'Z' models debuted at the 1969 Tokyo Auto Show. The Japanese press had been invited to an exclusive preview of the new S30-series range at Nissan's Ginza HQ a week earlier, but at 9.55am on 24th October the doors to the 16th Tokyo Auto Show - held at the Tokyo International Trade Center in Harumi - were opened to the general public, with Prince Takamatsu of the Japanese royal family performing the opening ceremony. Over the next 14 days, over 1.5 million people would pass through the doors of the exhibition, viewing 722 vehicles and 256 exhibitors stands. This was the world public debut of the S30-series Z..... Happy Anniversary! Some images from the show:
  13. That is hilarious, now turn him into a zombie with one foot pedaling and the other one missing or dragging on the ground. The possibilities are endless, how much weight can the motor handle?
  14. Well that's cool as all get out! I hope you sale thousands. 👍
  15. Like the others said, $4300 is a good price for that car if you're planning on spending 3x that to restore it or fix it up. If you have $7300 to spend to get something that runs and can be enjoyed, you should probably look elsewhere. Truthfully, there doesn't seem to be as many Zs on Craigslist as there once were (I still have the same alert set up from when I got mine 4+ years ago), so you might need to be patient. This might be the best/only candidate in the LA area on CL right now: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/tujunga-1975-datsun-280z-280-clean/7015067719.html
  16. you can pinch off hose with vice grips then cut
  17. You can separate the black plastic housing and remove the chromed vent, then I use a child's toothbrush and a strong cleaner to get as much of the dirt off as possible. If the chrome is still in good condition I use 0000 steel wool to do the rest of the cleaning, if the the chrome is spotty and worn off in places then I use chrome polish and a small screw driver wrapped in cotton to apply and buff or Qtips.
  18. I bet he got hung up on the boobie thread. I know I do.
  19. Ok hear me out.... My horn pad was doing the same thing and it’s because the cracking plastic no longer holds snug on the wheel. Instead of a zip tie, I used a soldering iron. Just hold the horn pad together so that the cracks in the plastic close, then carefully draw the hot iron back and forth over the plastic melting it back together. The secret is to melt enough material for it to bond with out burning all the way through. After doing that my horn pad fits snug and had a satisfying “click” when pressed back on to the wheel.
  20. Hmmmmm, I wonder where you found the inspiration for that idea?
  21. Love it every time I look at parts that usually rust out. Here are some pics as I went around the car when I first could examine it well: Right rear wheel well at bottom corner of rocker: Inside bottom edge of passenger side rocker: Outside bottom corner of passenger fender (fenders are original to the car) - note rust pitting, and inside frame double panel at tension rod mount location: Passenger front inner wheel house area: Driver side wheelhouse and rocker lower corner: Inside driver side rear wheel house looking at bottom, front corner, and from center of car looking at inside of same rocker corner: I didn't take pictures of the floor as delivered, but here are some of them in their sand blasted state: What little rust there was is gone now
  22. Shipping the car by itself from CO to GA ended up costing $850. All of the extra parts, I knew, was going to be a pain. I looked prior to auction close for rental availability and flights, but long story short, flying out, renting a pick up truck and loading it up, and getting all of the parts back to GA cost $1,654.18 and took 2 days (and into early morning of the third). Total with 5% for BAT was $9240, so delivered total of car and parts was $11,744.88. I am keeping track of costs very precisely and will be sharing with everyone as well as time spent (not nearly as precisely). Regarding the direction of the resto, I plan to do a high quality restoration back to stock, except for the following: The engine had pitting on cylinder 6 that was bad enough to require a re-bore. Pistons are ITM - .030 over. Stage I Isky cam which has a higher lift than stock but the same factory duration (won't be able to tell it has a cam from listening to it) Some bigger valves to allow better breathing Zstory stainless header and exhaust Mild porting to make the valves, cam and exhaust work well together 16" x 7" wheels and performance tires The goal I have in mind is to have the car be like "new" back in 1971, but with "upgrades" for exhaust and wheels. Both of those mods will be fully reversible, if at some point I want to sell the car, and a future owner wants to go 100% stock. The car was originally silver, and I am nearly certain I will put it back to that color. I like the factory orange a lot, but I want to keep it the original color. Silver looks nice on 240z's too. 🙂
  23. Some old and new photos of my '73 240Z. (I am the original owner) My 240Z in 1973 1982, Daily Driver loved by our daughter . 2019: after restoration - loved by the next generation
  24. I will suggest googling "240 bumpers on 280 Eurodat classiczcars.com". Probably the best current thread we have. Also he has a '77 like yours. And they're in a large shipping box. If your travels take you anywhere near you could pick them up at his business.
  25. It looks outstanding, here is the ultimate in "not busy"
  26. Finally got around to replacing the inner door panels and took her out for a few laps around the neighborhood today! It was gorgeous out and the fall colors were in full bloom!
  27. A couple of photos from my collection. Alan, the 2000 GT is labeled as a 1971 (handwritten on the back), but I think that's an error and it was actually from the 1969 show. It seems to be the same model standing next to it as the 432. Do you agree?? -Mike
  28. Ten years ago, some of my photo posts on this thread were scans taken from original Japanese magazines of the period. Quality could have been better. And now it can be. Morita san of MOTOR Magazine has kindly posted scans of some the original photos from their archives:
  29. Just a heads up for those awaiting a dash like me.... I spoke to Vintage Dashes by email today and their manufacturer has an issue with their machinery and there was no delivery last week. Still waiting to hear when it will be back in production. I am waiting for my 280 dash at the moment.
  30. The 280 just sold for $22,000 on BaT and now it is going to Dubai, http://www.tominiclassics.com/ I made my parts and materials cost back and a little bit for my labour, I'm happy boy. Shopping list, another Z, bigger compressor, more lights in the shop, a new Tig welder🤩, maybe a spot welder too, ...
  31. A fellow on FB (Mark Shep) just posted a quick article about how he replace his choke cable sheath and core wire. He showed poictures of what he had done and he gave us the URL of the company he found that supplied the wire and sheath. Just had a quick look, seems that have quite a bit of inventory. Should be useful to use in the future. http://www.controlcables.com/ He measured the stock sheath and told them what he needed and they set him up, so we don't have specific part numbers but now we have another vendor to somehow remember.
  32. Thanks to Mattel, the band finally got back together
  33. Going after a birthday present for my friends little boy. This one requires no thought. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
    That's some fine examples right there! Thanks
  35. So what I liked about the “APP” was it was easy, quick and went straight to what I wanted to see “unread posts” and I used it approximately 80% of the time I spent on the site from my iPad or iphone. More detailed work I did on my HP laptop. Today from all of my devises I use a password storage site called “LastPass” that launches the Webpage with my user name and password and requires a thumb print on the iPad and the iPhone. No need to waste your time or money just for me. Keep up good work ps just checked in on the white 72 on BAT: $40K and 7 days to go. Wahoooooo
  36. I have concerns about reinforcement around the fuel tank. I just see a piece of steel failing to yield and breaking instead, to end up punching the fuel tank it's meant to protect. I would think reinforcement would have to be very well thought out. I think a more interesting idea would be coming up with a puncture resistant liner like fuel cells have.
  37. I believe this photo was taken at the Nissan press writers test driving event - where various members of the Japanese automotive press actually got their first drives in the various new S30-series models - held on November 5th 1969, and over the following days.
  38. I think the cars in these photos from Alan & or Kats posed for that brochure 🙂 They are from ~ Oct. 18, 1969 when, at the same time, two silver Z's were tearing up the USA and Canadian highways. @kats @HS30-H
  39. Curious in this advert, the one car has no paint protector on the bumper and no bumper rubber whatsoever? Vs the 432 has it? Also notice the holes for the bumperettes, but no bumperettes? Interesting to not see the paint bumper protector in so many restorations?
  40. Mine also had cracks causing it to fall off easily. To avoid cutting away the foam, I used standard safety wire that is used for securing nuts/bolts on race cars etc. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  41. Correct (S30 type) emblem on left. Incorrect (S130 type) emblem on right. The 432 going to auction has the incorrect, flatter profile (and plastic...) S130 type bonnet emblem.
  42. Hi,Thank you everyone,I did restored the spoiler.I am not happy with its finish, I should work hard for sanding and painting.But currently this is my best,do not look it closely!I used a heat gun to be flexible the portion of it where should be straighten.Also I put FRP liquid and cloth to fill the gap between body panel and the spoiler.And for reinforce the spoiler.Color is not matching for the original,but I am OK.Please note 3 holes for the emblem on the back,they are a good sign of original early one.The earliest spoiler has only one emblem " Fairlady Z" . These holes are exactly correct locations and dot size.Compare the official photo of Z432-R, you will see mine has the same location of the emblem. I looked into holes from inside of the spoiler,there are no evidence of repairing or filling extra holes. kats
  43. In a word, yes. No LHD S30-series Zs were officially marketed and sold with 'Fairlady' name badging, as far as I am aware. SP/SR roadsters are a whole other kettle of fish.... Back to the main topic: Here are some pics of what I believe was the first official S30-series Z related sales flyer / pamphlet to be freely distributed in Japan. I am told that these were handed out from the booth on Nissan's stand at the '69 Tokyo Auto Show. It unfolds to become a two-sided mini poster ( 44cm x 36cm ) with a quaint mix of photos and illustrations, and a fair bit of technical spec content. It's all part of that initial "Your Dreams Come True" Japanese sales campaign:
  44. In the weeks following the show, the Japanese press began to publish their December 1969 issues - many of which would feature the new Z models in editorial coverage, and carry high-profile advertisements from Nissan's 'Your Dream Comes True' campaign for the domestic Z range:
  45. And on the floor area of the Nissan stand, a 920 'Safari Gold' 'S30' variant 'Fairlady Z-L' model:
  46. Displayed on a rotating circular platform right outside Nissan's main booth, an orange PS30 'Fairlady Z432' attracted a lot of attention, and certainly had the wow factor:
  47. Hi Jay: So far here's the best I've found. <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/AcuraSeats/AcuraBeck.htm TARGET=NEW> 96-98 Accura Seats </a> I've now put thousands of miles on the car with these and I've been very happy with them. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com


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