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  1. Hello everyone! I hope this message finds you well. It's been a long couple of years. After my last update, which was exactly 2 years and 2 days ago, I spent 2019 moving a family of 8, along with 7 Datsuns, into a new house. Truth be told, the Datsuns, and all their parts, outgrew the space. We had to move! So 2019 was spent renovating the old house and getting it to market. We were handed keys to the new house in February of 2019, along with an ultimatum that the front and backyard landscaping needed to be completed within 12 months to avoid HOA "nasty-grams" threatening fines. 2020 started off promising. The economy was on fire. Work was great. We were planning to celebrate my 50th birthday in March with a road trip to wine country in #8701. It was definitely time to get back to restoring #187. But all those plans were temporarily placed on hold upon news of my father's health in late January. Within 2 weeks of finding out he had stage 4 pancreatic cancer, he departed this world. It was a somber Valentine's Day 2020. We took comfort knowing he passed without much suffering. In fact, he reported no pain at all. Unlike many during the lockdown, we were fortunate to be at his bedside until his final breath at 77. Please indulge me while I speak of him. He was a descendent of generations of Vietnamese farmers. As such, he was destined to become one, but as fate would have it, he was drafted and placed into service. At the beginning of the conflict, Bell UH-1 Iroquois (nicknamed "Huey") were arriving in theater, but they came without pilots. So a batch of Vietnamese Air Force officers were hand picked and sent to Fort Sam Houston in San Antonio, Tx to learn how to pilot the Huey. Interestingly enough, I completed my officer basic course (OBC) at Fort Sam Houston 4 decades later and separated from service with the exact same rank as my dad. Upon returning home from Texas, he flew special ops mission, flying upwards of 3 to 4 sorties a day for 8 years. It was an amazing feat. One old combat vet that spoke at his funeral said, "When we would climb aboard the Huey, we would always check upfront to see who was piloting the bird. When we saw that it was MAJ Huynh, we knew we would be home for dinner." During the war, he was introduced to his future wife, a young lady who was a descendent of royalty. Her father was the nephew to the king. What does that make me you ask? Absolutely nothing. [emoji1787] I digress. They married months later and had my brother in 68 and I followed in 1970. On April 30, 1975, the Fall of Saigon, we were on the tarmac at Ton Son Nhat Airport awaiting evacuation to US naval ships off the coast. Needless to say, plans for an orderly evacuation were scraped when the North Vietnamese planes began bombing the airport. As such, Operation Frequent Wind was implemented. I don't recall much other than booming explosions and the ironclad grip of my mom's hand handcuffed around my wrist as she dragged us out of the belly of a Boeing CH-47 Chinook onto a Huey. Despite the uncertainty of our Huey lifting off, 30 passengers, mostly women and children, made their escape by helicopter onto the USS Midway. As a young boy growing up, I would watch footages of Bell Huey being pushed over the deck to make room for incoming helicopters, and not once did I equate those clips to my past. It wasn't until the 40th Anniversary of the Fall of Saigon, when a large ceremony was held on the deck of the USS Midway, now a floating museum in San Diego, to honor my father and his squadron did I come to appreciate the significance of that aircraft carrier. The USS Midway evacuated my family and thousands of other refugees to the new world. Unfortunately my mom's journey ended in Hawaii after succumbing to malaria and pneumonia. She passed at 27, and my dad, then 33, a widow with 2 toddlers, began life in America with only the clothes on our backs, literally. Given the umpteenth times he has cheated death as a helicopter pilot, I thought my dad was invincible, capable of living well into his 90's, certainly long enough to enjoy driving #187 after the restoration. After all, it was he who bought me my first Datsun in high school, a used red 1979 Datsun 280ZX with 77K miles. We picked it up in Fontana from a gentleman that races top fuel for a living. I remembered our trip home. We got on the freeway and he gunned it. My dad rarely smiled, but he did that day, and we smiled all the way home. Now that I've laid my father to rest, I can once again turn my attention to restoring #187. Thank you for indulging me. Due to COVID-19, the panels that Rod ordered sat in quarantine at the border for months. The parts finally arrived last month and he striped the car to a rolling chassis in preparation for the body shop. Sorry I don't have anymore pictures to share but I will in the near future. Here's wishing you all a safe and happy Labor Day weekend! P.s Not sure why my father was the only one on that helicopter with a life vest on. You think he would have given it to me. [emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  2. Racer X

    1972 240Z

    I bought this car for Mrs. Racer 1.0 back in 1992 for $2,000. When we divorced she said she didn't want it, and demanded I pay her for it. I pointed out the car was bought with money out of my pocket, and the title was in my name, and I would not be giving her anything for the car, and that was that. I drove the car off and on until 1998, parking it because the oil consumption was excessive, and at the time I was trying to defend a championship in my race Z. So the car sat in the back corner of the shop, collecting dust. Fast forward to this past August. I'm at work, and my manager calls me, says I have to go home. Contact tracing had resulting in me being identified as being at risk to Covid19. Not wanting to waste a two week paid "vacation", I decided to clean up the shop a bit and see how the old Z was doing. I charged the battery overnight, and the car reluctantly came to life, 22 year old gas and all. Being all original, and numbers matching, I won't be making any changes that cannot be returned to the as new configuration. But in the interim I plan to replace the tired engine with one of the many others I have lying about, and rebuild the original as time and money allow. The car as I bought it in 1992 (alongside my race car): Double Datsuns by Racer, on Flickr Brown Z Red Z by Racer, on Flickr And after sitting in the corner of the shop after 22 years, dust, dirt, overspray (I painted a tractor and even though I had a makeshift spray booth, overspray went everywhere) and spider poop. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Not easy to see through 22 years of dirt. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr I washed it. Notice the red haze of overspray. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr After the first pass around with rubbing compound and a buffer. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr And after about 20 passes around the car. I put some Panasport wheels on it that were on a 280Z parts car I had out back. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr And finally a coat of Zymol wax. Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Now for some mechanical work. I am going to change the car over to a manual tranny. These cars should never have had automatics. I also have new carpet, weatherstripping, and interior plastic panels to change out. Stay tuned. Racer
  3. Car arrived Friday from Miguel. The paint work is amazing as always. Since it has only been around 110 degrees F here in San Diego, I decided to do a little work on the car. Got the underside painted with POR-15 and then added a little undercoating. Painted the forward radiator supports, rear vent holes and the wire tabs. Started installing a few components that were ready to go. My son is going to lend a hand tomorrow so should be able to finish up the brake and fuel lines and install the suspension. She's looking pretty nice!
  4. There's effectively no copyright on the original Kobe Seiko design, and several different companies have made replicas over the last 50 years. You cannot label or market them as Kobe Seiko items, that's all. The problem here is effectively piracy of M-Speed's IP software, molds and R&D. We all know how many of these Chinese factories operate, and to buy product from them - which others have invested time, know-how and money to - is effectively encouraging piracy. If anybody wanted these wheels, they were freely available for the last two years from M-Speed Japan at a price which reflected the time and expense in setting such a project up. Buying via the back door is bad for all of us in the long run.
  5. Well I like the way they ride . I’m running about a 1/4 turn out for all these wonderful roads around here . The ride is decent and can be made softer than my non- adjustable KYB’s - but just a smidge . I take a long drive tomorrow so I will really give them some miles . Nice curvy Indiana roads . I’m taking my friend gearhead with me for the ride . Actually I’ll have two passengers l but cranky arse has to stay in the back .
  6. Well I can’t keep up with what I post anymore . The 3.2 is now running with the MN47 head again . Since the last post I had put miles on the p90 while I was fixing a 71 for a customer . Meanwhile the MN head got new Manely valves and bronze guides . I swapped it back I’m with the proper head gasket thickness and should be back to 10.5:1 . Cylinder pressure is around 220 with compression tester . Pistons were pretty much broke in , so just a tune and start flogging . I managed a quick 0-60 time of 4.77 seconds . This is a beast motor . It’s amazing how hard it pulls even in 4h gear . Dyno appointment is in November - everyone is booked up until then . 8B4867CC-29D6-428F-A1D7-5F72482973E3.MP4
  7. I saw a mock up of a front grill mod that breaks up the big black square grill that I think improves the look of the front.
  8. LOL. Commitment issues. Here's what I did: After I got the original peened nuts off, I completely removed the shoulder where the peening was originally located. I cut mine off in a lathe, but you could do the same thing with a file or grinding wheel. The end result was a "test nut" that I could install and remove any number of times without damage to anything. Using test nuts, I could put everything together and make sure it all worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what my nuts look like: Then when I was completely convinced everything was done right, I took the test nuts off for the last time and replaced with the one-time-use ZX nuts.
  9. Hi all Really looking forward to starting this project and getting all of your input and advice along the way! Im new to this forum, Ive spent lots of time lurking though! I have been posting on the australian forum but traffic is quite low on there so hoping to get quicker input on here. I did also consider hybridz but I think my resto will be more in line with classiczcars as Im not transplanting a V10 into mine... Names Ryan, I am the long time owner of a 1971 240z here in Perth Western Australia. Vin is HS30-001063 I have owned the car for 10 years. When I bought the car it was in rough condition, tried to get it running to enjoy for a while but the previous owner had neglected it too much. So I decided not to waste money or time and wait for a ground up resto. Then it took me 8 years to find a decent space to start the resto (my dads new shed). I started the tear down in late 2018 but then had my son so it went on the back burner for another 1.5 years. Now I am almost finished the tear down and excited to get some real work done. Unfortunately I have another baby due in November! Damn! Lol I have also started a YouTube channel to document the restoration. At the moment they’re pretty boring dismantle videos but I plan to make them better quality and more exciting in the future. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHZhre0vm7sL2Kl7hUQFVkg About the car: History unknown, bought it from a very energetic guy who pretty much ran it into the ground, was completely neglected and unmaintained. I knew I wanted to do a full restomod however, so this was not an issue for me. Car has a L20 engine and may be an originally automatic gearbox, hence the L20 swap and that the gear lever barely lines up with the hole in the trans tunnel. L20 will be thrown in the bin. Car is green originally and has had a terrible quality respray. Car had a relatively minor front end collsion, bent sugar scoop/front bumper support and some light repairs to radiator support Basically everything on the car needs replacing/restoration, nothing is reusable in a sense I can just rebolt it on the restored car. Plans for the car: Due to the car not having the original engine I see no point in going back to stock original. may as well create the car I want, so many things will not be stock - Color change, unsure as to color just yet, was leaning toward white but recently I have been liking safari gold - L28 stroked out - Triple Weber set up but thinking of keeping SU's initially to save some $$$ - BC Coilovers, techno toy tuning 3 point strut brace in front and 3 point apex engineering strut brace in rear - Initially all suspension components will be restored and reused to save $$$ (however I havent ruled out installing some pretty techno toy tuning/ apex engineering components at a later date) - Brake upgrade to front and disc upgrade to rear. not going big brakes as I dont like big rims on the 240z - Custom interior - I am an upholsterer by trade and am going to be doing the interior myself and upgrading some it. Think Alcantara and leather - wheels are undecided but something of the period, watanabes/rotas etc - Fender Mirrors for that classic japanese sports car look - Majority of the chrome will be painted in a satin black, I am not a chrome fan unfortunately.... (I know this will upset many of you) - Exterior besides the lack of chrome will be very stock, no flares etc, thinking about maybe doing a BRE style lower lip air dam thingy Here are some photos just before I started stripping it
  10. My good friend TJ Lord and his father Gary were gunned down in their Virginia City gun store yesterday.TJ was a sniper and my sniper instructor when I decided to take that training just because as an officer, I could. He made me feel welcome when I think the other students thought I was just an elitist shouldering my way in to the training.Lately, I would see him at the range as I still go almost daily.We both made it back from Iraq with me spending time in hospitals for over a year. It's just so hard to have a brother killed violently when we both thought we were safe now... Well, as safe as you can ever feel after combat. We'd laugh about both trying to get the chair facing the door in restaurants. We'd tell each other when a nightmare woke us up. We'd laugh at ourselves for only knowing how to say "get on the ground" in Arabic. He taught my daughter how to shoot and how to clean her weapon. I never told him but she had a crush on him and told me but not him... People say 'thank you for your service," but truthfully, we did it for the man or woman standing next to us. TJ stood next to me. RIP brother...
  11. Kats is fine, don't worry about him. We keep in touch and - as you can perhaps imagine - the Japanese airline industry is facing a lot of upheavals at the moment, so he has been seeing some changes in his work pattern.
  12. I can help plated hood latch parts if you’d like...
  13. See photo. Engine hoist. Cargo straps. Bath towels wrapped around engine hoist boom arm and hatch to protect hatch paint and glass. With one set of cargo straps centred vertically and another centred horizontally, and using the cross-over point as the lift location, the hatch was pretty well balanced for a flat lift. I trimmed it out by adding small weights (socket wrench sockets) as required on the hatch surface. This wasn't so important during removal, but it was very important during re-installation in order to get the hinge bolt holes to line up.
  14. This is one of those critical moments in running a business. Do you take a relatively small loss, to keep your customers happy and your reputation in good standing. Or do you hold your ground to save that small cost of fixing the problem, destroying the good will that exists and damaging future sales. California Datsun comes to mind. I hope these guys can handle the broad view. They have a huge selection of parts now, the business has grown quite a bit since it first appeared, not that long ago. This thread is like a case study in a business course. What not to do. Let's see what happens next... https://zcardepot.com/
  15. Even though the FSM says not to bother un-peen the original nut before removal, don't believe it!! They say just put a wrench on it and take it off. Again... Don't believe it!! As grannyknot mentioned above, if you take the original off without relaxing the peened area first, it will mess up a bunch of thread. I've tried it and (while still usable), the results weren't pretty. And as far as being able to un-peen and reuse the original nut, I think it would be very unlikely. More power to ya, but for the cost of a new nut, it's a theory that I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to prove. I do a lot of unnecessary time consuming stuff like that, but that's below even my threshold!
  16. Hi everyone. I am the owner of the rolling shell for sale on Ebay and the instigator of this thread - big apologies for not making this clear in the first place. Also sorry for not participating more in the discussions but I've been busy the last few days preparing the rear of my 1970 240Z car for primer and a base coat before the cold weather takes a hold. I must also apologise to HS30-H (Albrecht) for copying his thread from the ZClub UK website without acknowledging him or asking his permission to do so. So in my view the real interest in the shell is that it is a low 260Z chassis number that was taken off the production line before being built up into a complete car. I know that I have no paperwork to prove this but I am very confident that anyone who has experience with working on S30 cars who see it in the flesh would agree. I suppose my question is, how much would a similar shell sell for if Nissan were to offer one today as a spare part? Now in terms of the BSR association. Let's face it, it's a nice story BUT even if it were true the shell was never actually built into a race car. It's an association - nothing more. Saying that, if it was eventually completed as a BSR tribute car then it would be a fitting conclusion to the story. The Skyline conversion was undertaken maybe 5 or more years ago by a small restoration shop who are local to me and who specialise in MGB's. They have done an OK job but in hind-sight it should have gone to a Z specialist. Four years ago out of the blue I had a serious illness and it took me some time to recover from that and shortly afterwards I took early retirement. I recently concluded that owning three Z's was not a good long-term strategy so I sold my 260Z UK track-day car about 6 weeks ago and now the 260Z US rolling shell is for sale. To be honest, I really don't want to let it go but in reality it's the right thing to do as it would mean that I can concentrate my resources on the 240Z which will keep me busy for the next year or two at the pace I'm currently achieving i.e. very slow. Regarding the asking price, yes I've set it on the high side and why not? I'm in no rush to sell and I have in fact had some interest from a couple of people. I'm under no time or financial pressure to let it go so I thought OK let see what happens. I'm aware that it is unlikely that it will go state-side especially considering the additional shipping and import costs involved but if you don't try then you'll never know. I just thought that it would be good to let you guys know that this shell was for sale. I also really don't mind any negative comments, I'm too old and ugly enough to get wound up about things like that any more. Hope you all have a good day, Dave
  17. @gnosez and I have corresponded about this bodyshell. As far as I'm concerned, everything rings true.
  18. In a fire bad enough to ignite Elektron Magnesium wheels (which the original Kobe Seiko wheels were made from) on an S30-series Z, the fumes from the burning interior plastics and vinyl would kill you first. M-Speed's replicas are made from Aluminium alloy.
  19. We did some brainstorming, including heaving the early one remolded, but that would be way to expensive, they will only do it from at least a 1000 pieces. So I decided to modify the later one, back to the early one. I think it worked out. I will test it to make sure, just waiting for the strap to come in first. I cut the purple, and added to red, so the " slope " is the same, and the holes are on the same spot as the early one. With the purple cut out, you can now put the M12 nut under there. I could not just simply twist the mount 180 because that would change the angle.. so this was the only way. Welded the mount with the rubber part of it submerged in some water, so it wouldn't melt..
  20. Yet another round of wildfires in California, Oregon, and Washington. I am seeing a lot of smoke in the greater Seattle/Puget Sound area, which is a nuisance to work in, but some folks are losing their homes and lives. I hope those here in the path of the fires are safe.
  21. Thunderstorms and rain last night. That should put the hurt on the fires and scrub some of the smoke from the air.
  22. As I am today rebuilding another wiper linkage, I thought I would contribute some more detailed pictures of the fancy wiper park components for future posterity. Out of, ahem, "several" available wiper linkages, I have only a single one that has an unbroken spring. Thought I would include detailed pictures of it in hopes of some day creating new ones, as well as to show the assembly order and position of all the components Here is the little spring with oft-broken off hook engaged where it belongs Complete and broken example for comparison of where the break happens and how long the bent tang is Clever photography (ie move it around until you can see it), shows the shiny spots and wear on the bottom of the spring. All the bits and pieces in order from top to bottom. Top is defined as having the end with the (poor excuse for a ) snap ring/C-clip pointing up when you're taking it apart. I have used a real compatible sized E clip to replace that obnoxious soft C clip thing. This gives you a visual idea of how the eccentric cam part fits with the hole in the arm, effectively changing the arm length as the cam rotates. Another shot showing how the spring and the "millennium falcon" part with the slot are arranged in the assembly. Clearly this proves the designer of said space ship in the movie was a Datsun owner.
  23. Wait! Don't cut the stub off! First thing to try would be penetrating oil, some heat, and grabbing that stub with a pair of pliers. If you cut it off, you'll lose that opportunity. Wiggle it back and forth. If you can get it to move at all, you're pretty much home free. And you've got another advantage in that it's not a blind hole. You have access to both side. Is there any bolt length sticking out the other side? And what is the base piece made out of? Is it steel or aluminum?
  24. So I signed up for Youtube TV. I guess they call them "streaming services" now, we used to call it "cable". Basically you can watch programs on your computer. Or one of the new computerized TV's. Most of today's "TV"s are actually just very large computer monitors. Now I find that the commercials on the major main stream networks that I watch follow my latest Google searches. So Youtube, owned by Google, gets information from Google and tailors the TV commercials to match what I'm looking at on the internet. It's not even spooky anymore. Sometimes i try to mess with them by searching things that i want to see commercials about. Is that some boo sh...t? I don't even have TV commercial commonality with the rest of the world anymore. Just seems crazy that they spend so much time trying to drill in to my head. Many of the ads on the web pages are for things that I just bought on Amazon. I just bought it!! Why show me an ad for it. The above might qualify as a rant. I don't know. Edit - also just realized that this might all be in my head. Not sure...
  25. Thanks for your review of the parts from KFvintageJDM, it's very timely as I might need some of the parts they offer. Regarding your question, on viczcar, about the fit on the outside edge of the front seat rails, mine has about a pinky finger sized gap.
  26. Are you ready for the photo flood to start? Day 1 (or is it Day 0?) https://photos.app.goo.gl/xLN3ymszPDNSx87j6 This morning https://photos.app.goo.gl/UxdKfupPw7E6ZDyh6
  27. The L28 is i think the most wanted z engine at the moment (of the L series), also a reliable engine. Over here i would buy it in a flash! For that price, only a good gearbox is more expensive than that! You plan to rebuild it.. if it was stored dry and sometimes turned and oiled.. it is very possible to NOT rebuild it. also.. nobody can look straight through the engine or gearbox, so it's always a gamble. Look for damage and wear, a bad cam says a lot of miles and a expensive rebuild..
  28. Go LED headlights, reduces the current requirements to the point where relays are barely required to protect our sensitive old headlight switches. either Dapper OE7’s or LED H4 bulbs in Hella or Bosch (or similar) housings is the way to go. Dapper’s OE7 (and OE5) lights are astoundingly good and look OEM. Bright white light and sharp cut off. 2.1 Amp each on low beam. https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/oe7 BTW the blurry photo is caused by extreme speed and distraction of the photographer by the beauty of the subject matter...
  29. Sorry folks, you may have seen the note we put up in our store, this Covid thing has forced a couple more guys to step down to take care of family, including James temporarily, and we were already short on warm bodies, so we've been a bit overwhelmed, but still standing and swinging. We have a couple of new guys starting soon, both of them Z owners, so if we've missed any of your emails or messages know we're working hard to get caught up. I was able to check in with Lee between his recent business trips. He is traveling (again), and having log-in issues, but I mentioned the Stainless issue to him and he said that the hardware is chromed steel, not stainless. Now that discussion is above my pay grade, lol, so I'll let Lee pick up any further questions when he gets back. It has already been answered previously, but that disc is completely there just to avoid possible air damage to the seal, by giving paths for the air to move freely if the bump stop comes all the way down. I guess they used to see it happen way back and thus came up with the disc as a simple yet fully effective solution. One of the projects that has suffered with the current situations is making a picture-gram of how the pieces go together on the strut just to add clarity. The sleeve and the bump stop go together like this image I took. I believe this was also described early on in this thread, but I never made it to making that diagram/image. Sorry about that. I'll make a real one soon with all the pieces. Then instructions are also something Lee is looking into, but those wheels turn pretty slow, especially with our current world. Somebody said it was done like that to make it work for all languages, which is exactly correct. We hate to see that anybody had any trouble with their struts, but it is great to hear from so many who love the performance. Ok, it's nearing 10:30 pm here in SoCal, back to answering more emails!
  30. Hey I bet I can save you $8k, the suspension might look like it is shot and certainly the original rubber bushings are but you may be very surprised how well new rubber bushings make the car feel. There are more than a few guys here that have gone the poly urethane bushings route then turned around and replaced that with fresh OEM rubber. If the car is a dedicated track car that's one thing, if you're doing a mixture of town and country driving then the harshness of the poly can get old really fast. TTT's stuff is sexy for sure but all new rubber bushings and mounts is only going to set you back about $500, however, poly mounts for the steering rack really are a must. Just my opinion.
  31. I am absolutely blown away by the responses! Haven't posted on too many forums but I usually get blasted on the first post no matter where it is. I looked a lot more into things last night and wow do parts get expensive! Not to mention machining and other things. I think I am going to cool it on my thinking about hp, I know these cars are light and do well with "lower" hp numbers. I am NEVER lucky.... I usually approach car stuff with a take it apart now and then price as I go, but I see with the engine I REALLY need to make a spreadsheet and plan for everything I am going to do and then execute later. As well as adding 50% to that and then probably spending double lol. I agree! Alright, next step will be getting it ready for a compression test and hopefully leakdown as well. That is an awesome stand, loved the videos, I may be interested to do it! So much more to think about...... In terms of my plans for the car, this list also goes in order of operations. I hope to finish the car with about 15-20k. This leaves about 3 or 4k for the engine, power is not my main concern atm and can be revisited later as I know these cars are fun stock and its simple enough to pull the engine and really get it done if I choose to in the future. I prefer suspension and tires over power as there are a lot of fun curvy roads out here and I don't like speeding tickets... Everything in this list is fully DIY except for the engine. Got the car for $1,000 Currently fixing body (its not too bad, almost all the usually non-structural rust spots) for hopefully ~$500-1,000 Painting at home for ~$2,000 (already priced out liquids and know where I am buying it) lets hope I can do it well ? Fix engine... ???$ New wiring harness - ~$400 (I'm actually excited for building this, thinking about templating and trying to sell some to earn little bit of cash for the build as well as helping other with a high quality harness) Rebuild transmission - ~$500 (hopefully) Rebuild differential, maybe OBX LSD - $500-1,000 Hoping for a full Techno Toy build as almost everything under the car looks shot and I hate money. $8,000-10,000 Interior - ~$1000 This is quite an ambitious project, but I have about 3 months till my next job starts and look forward to putting 40-60 hour weeks into this. Please let me know if my plan is dumb lol. I look forward to asking for lots of help and learning a lot...?
  32. A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interesting electrical bits too. Check it out when you have some browsing time
  33. I’m in the business too, I can confirm that the prices have jumped More than 100% since spring. I was very fortunate to buy my lumber for my personal barn conversion to garage/workshop in the spring otherwise it would have cost me double in August when I really did it ?... A 11$ osb 4x8 sheet in spring is now 23$ the last time I checked. here is the almost finished project that I will finish during the cold winter months!...
  34. If it's gas Mig you'll pick it up quickly, it's very forgiving, however Datsun sheet metal is not, it tries to blow holes in itself. Start with small tack weld for the panels, jump around letting them cool and eventually join them all up.
  35. I have the frost fighter grid on my 510 rear glass. It’s pretty tough yet thin. No problem cleaning it with a rag and invisible glass cleaner so far.
  36. The extra bushing goes to the long, thin contact for the wiper washer switch... Also, that bushing has nothing to do with the headlights blowing the fuse. Your headlight contact Inside the switch is grounding out because it's misaligned. Open it back up inspect it. If you bent that "teeter" contact plate, it will go to high and hit the metal case and ground out.
  37. That was lifted from frost fighters website. Apparently there is no residual material after application---only the lines. A purpose built grid that matches in lengths, spacing and element thickness should be as close to original as one is probably going to get and in my mind would likely be a better performer than a mix of old and repaired segments or a new conductive grid with irregular thickness (hence resistive) properties. I appreciate your "do it myself" approach and applaud you for it. My only intent here is to see if there is interest in a quality one source solution that virtually anyone can purchase and install with a minimum of hassle and a maximum of performance.
  38. LOL. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard that......
  39. Hi Dmuzial, I have a 78Z manual, and had this same problem about a year and a half ago....actually started a thread in the Engine and Drivetrain section since I originally ran across the problem when installing the diff...you can see it here: Lots of good responses to my questions by the forum members. Bottom line was that some of the drawings in the FSM were copied from previous year models and are incorrect. Like you, I initially installed the bar with the bushing cylinders aft of the mustache bar (per the FSM diagram) only to discover that I couldn't get the forward diff mount to line up correctly. It all worked out good once I reversed the bar so that the bushing cylinders were forward. Love this forum...never fails to get you back on track with whatever Z problem you're tackling at the moment!
  40. As a Marine Vietnam veteran(1966-1967) I honor your father. Peace to you my friend. Can't wait to see your restoration. Cheers, Mike
  41. I just read your story to my wife. I'm 70 and she's 65, and we lived through that era and watched the war on TV. My high school classmates (class of '69) went over, and some did not return. I'm glad your dad and your family made it out. He was clearly a remarkable and admirable gentleman.
  42. The 510 made the big move today from the storage tent to the shop, hoping to have her road worthy for next spring.
  43. Hi Jim Thanks so much for the warm welcome! Its really so exciting to be starting this build. Yes the shop is nice and spacious but im running out of room with all the parts coming off the car! It needs some upgrades though, no electricity atm, and want to give the place a good clean out! I swear my dads a hoarder. Yes Perth is extremely isolated! Not many z's left over here at all, I could count on two hands how many times Ive seen one on the road. Makes them more expensive and parts harder to find. But luckily we have you guys in US to buy parts from. Just have to get a mortgage to pay for the shipping costs! look forward to using all the knowledge and expertise from my fellow members
  44. Sorry to see you have the same issue Captain. Totally agree on the original design being elegant. If you’re not bothered by originality, the classic BSA motorbike ones worked perfectly and look all the money - way better than the RockAuto ones. I had to trim the edge off one end to help it over the spring top-hat lip without covering the drain holes (a tight fit even with the originals). The dimensions on the other end are tight enough over the strut tube body (late 260z) that I could have gotten away without the clip. I did add the clip regardless but it’s not hidden like on the originals gaiters. Here’s the link. Let me know if you can’t find them or anything else suitable state-side and I will get some to you. https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/bsa-fork-gaiters-42-5320.html Here are some dimensions for comparison ...
  45. Can you tell which corner has the air in it? See bubbles come out of the tube? Hate to bring i up but you might have damaged the seal on that piston and it's sucking air. Just a big Maybe to check for. Big MAYBE, don't know, hope it's not, but it could be. Beside that you probably drew a lot of air in to that cylinder when the piston was unseated. Spend a lot of extra time purging that one. Tap on the lines, fittings, and cylinder to break any small bubbles free. The fronts are where a lot of air can hang out. Did you do any work up there? Bleed screws up... Brakes are the biggest pain on these cars, I think. Since you had the master cylinder off there could be air working its way through from there, through the NP valve, and the pressure imbalance warning switch, and the various junctions. Just a lot of little spots for a bubble to hang up. I put speed bleeders on the backs so that I could push a lot of fluid through quickly. Many people like the speed bleeders. They help.
  46. Exciting new development today! I have sourced a Subaru R180 LSD diff for my car! I have a classic z specialist here in Perth. bought from one of his other clients who was selling it. Apparently all I need is a front flange and backing plate from my stock 240z diff for the drive shaft join and some adapter plates to mate the 240z halfshafts to the diff. These adapter plates are made out of Japan and will be on order soon. I may also need a different moustache bar but we will see. Will come out cheaper than the Quaife option hopefully. Still pricey though.... but can you put a price on not lighting up your inside rear wheel mid corner?
  47. Hey Chas, I don't think the rust is too bad, I'll know more once I get it up on the rotisserie, the worst of it is the panel repairs done by previous owners. The shape of the rear quarter wheel lip looks like it was guessed at so will have to dig through the putty to find out what's under there first. Fortunately there is a very good body panel manufacturer the next province over that seems to be the only one making 510 rear quarters for 2 door coupes and the price is reasonable. http://www.alfaparts.net/dat510.html They make panels for a lot of older cars, http://www.alfaparts.net/


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