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  1. I am in the process of restoration of a set of Logan Blackburn's American Racing LeMans magnesium wheels. This is a set from his championship winning Z. I purposefully left his "trademark" yellow over spray on the inside of the wheels.
  2. OLD thread warning, but still relevant to those trying to fix. Using methods described above. Had all three break on one bucket, one on other. Worked great. The ABS glue I received was probably a little old because it was very thick. It worked to my advantage on this project because it steadied the bolts. Still had to do some occasional adjustments while it set up.
  3. Morton took a great line into turn one. Late braking on the outside. Real great execution.
  4. Well hello everybody. i'd like to introduce myself. I'm Nils, coming from switzerland and about two year ago i started work on a S30Z i bought. I now have a few restored parts, a lot of repair-parts lying around but the chassis was in bad condition because of earlier bad repair attempts by previous owners and a few crash-damages. Check out the whole story here: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11769 then i had to decide if i would have a bodyshop to bring everything back to original condition or look out for a second car with a better base. Some weeks ago i got a notice from two friends telling me they saw a sad Z hanging around with no roof-window out in the rain. Long story short - it was near my job, i checked it out and brought it here this weekend and started work immediately: so here's were the story begin's - i'll keep you updated! Check out my other project (JDM EK9 TypeR and my Daily EJ9 which will get replacement in 2013) on my personal site on www.JDMjunkies.ch back to the Z: Jup, it has been a while, but today i bought a second 240Z for a really great price. it looks ugly but it was a real great deal i'll also get some more parts from this guy beloning to the Z soon. Mor information soon: 1) My friend Simon is loading the car and tying it safely 2) while at home my old Z chassis had to leave the garage for better workspace on the new one: 3) and here my new fairlady is safely at its new home in the garage: Even have some OEM seats and seatbelts and a complete engine with carbs and everything 4) Last but not least i had to wrap the "old" chassis so it wont get wet during winter: I'll explain more on my plans soon. all i'd like to say is that both are genuine swiss 1972 240z. The main plan is to strip the new chassis and build one car out of these two with each part choosen from which car the part was in better condition. but we'll see. will be fun to explore Lots of updates will come again soon - the project is back in full swing
  5. Because we buy most of our parts from the states. Our dollar is worth 30% less than yours so if we both make $50,000 a year, you actually have 30% greater buying power. Top that with ridiculous shipping fees, taxes, and brokerage and we end up about 40% more cost in restoring a car. That’s life.
  6. In 2020 I will have been producing performance exhausts for 10 years ! Firstly, I would like to thank all my loyal customers over the years to make this happen and I’ve been rewarded in return by having many of you as friends. I’d also like to thank all those Z-professionals and track, rally and hill-climb competitors who continue, respectively, to sell and exploit my parts ! To celebrate this I’ve produced some exclusive super-goodies which I’m including as gifts* with each 2020 order and so as to be clear : Silencer, muffler order = free keyring (your choice) Manifold/header order = free T-shirt (quote size ‘L’ or ‘XL’) Complete kit = free 10yrs keyring and T-shirt (quote size ‘L’ or ‘XL’) These items may also be bought seperately with worldwide shipping** included in the prices below : Keyring 10 yrs : us$11 Keyring Z profile 50yrs : us$15 T-shirt 50yrs : us$23 (two sizes only ‘L’ and ‘XL’) *so long as stocks lasts ! **I will group ship so as to reduce the overall shipping cost. Obviously if bought as an extra and included in an exhaust order, there will be no shipping cost ; so less expensive ! Please contact me via mail (or PM) for any enquiries : seanz@wanadoo.fr So, Merry Christmas and I wish you all a happy and above all healthy New Year with new Z (and ZX) adventures !
  7. Small video of the first parts been sprayed with epoxy. 20191221_133026.mp4
  8. Thank you, will forward your number to Joyce, the owner of the 75 280z. I gave her your email address, she may have already contacted you thru that.
  9. It is sad to see how a couple of those "expert" posters with ulterior motives will dominate the dialog on a 240Z auction and denigrate a car for the sole intent of promoting their own vehicles. You are wise not to post on BaT, as your car would be in the cross hairs of the verbal elementary school food fights that is now so common each time a good 240Z is posted.
  10. A comment was made about radios; no, they don't have radios necessarily. This is vintage racing, not pro racing. And John's brakes were not cold. He just came out of turn one. John drove into the back of Brian, plain and simple.
  11. I never raced in historic events, just SCCA. They were both past the spinning car on the left when the Chevron took the line into the kink. The Chevron was ahead - it was his line. Morton plowed into the back of him. That's the way I see it.
  12. I think if the cars and drivers were switched, John and Randy would be saying that the Chevron drove straight into the Z. In fact, that's what they do seem to be saying anyway, isn't it? I have the utmost respect for Morton and I am - of course - a Z fan, but it needs saying. Looks like he certainly had a better view of the incidents unfolding on his left, which explains why he was moving to the right side of the track ahead of Morton. I know it's all too easy to Monday Morning Quarterback this, but the key point(s) here are the incidents unfolding on the left side of the track in turns one and two. Ploughing into a crippled/stationary car because the regulations state that you should "maintain a predictable line" is not the best interpretation of the rules, so the Chevron driver was doing the right thing in my opinion.
  13. @kats A few videos are available for testing a later silver RHD but the LHD test car below seems to be much earlier. The vinyl top option is known but interesting to see on an early test car. The more striking observation is the early rear panel. They either dug up an early prototype for the test or the testing was started well before the Z styling was finalized. But.... is that a roll cage inside? Spoiler testing too + locking fuel door. LHD too but with a single RH wing mirror (round type) and a LH door mirror (A racing 432R also has a similar wing set up but w/o the mirrors fitted). It was an automatic car with black plastic wheel Can't see the hazard switch type lol Note roll bar like silver tube visible in quarter window. @Carl BeckPerhaps to help with USA roll-over test compliance? Same tail section for dirt road test area Orange turn lights and 6 vertical grill supports! (this may be the original grill that went below bumper that Mr Matsuo mentioned. Same car as in wind tunnel with RH wing mirror and LH door mirror. Perhaps an overflow bottle on left? Very narrow rubber strips on over-riders. No diamond vinyl yet and strange metal tube bolted below quarter window... roll bar? If so, you can see where it fastens. I wonder if it ties into the roof where the mystery nut-serts are. No hatch sill or latch, just a thing vertical metal sheet. Another LHD doing water tests but with wooden steering wheel and square wing mirrors Pre 1969 engine and suspension. Note plastic fan, paint dabs, orange oil filter Very early fuel rail with return at rear carb and smog pump No text on valve cover Rear differential and suspension
  14. Blue , we are learning every day! About the not pointy hood , I remember Mr. Tamura and Mr. Yoshida told me that they were trying to shape the hood front edge not pointy . Mr. Tamura did free hand drawings for me at the dinner table , he explained how they wanted to be the headlight case . You see “ r 5 “ next to the head light case . To match the case , Mr. Tamura and Mr. Yoshida were making the head light cover trim ring as “ not pointy “ . Personally , I am a big fan of its sharp edge of the case . Early original is the sharpest due to aging I think , later metal case is never be that sharp on top of the edge . Here is the reference thread which contains the report of a dinner with Mr . Tamura and Mr . Yoshida . Kats
  15. Hi Blue , the silver test car is a unique ! Do you remember I introduced Mr. Miyazaki who was a member of Euro S30 test team ? He said the man who was behind the wheel was him . I don’t know about the roll bar , it appeared different from the production model . I have this video’s DVD , it came as a bonus who bought the 1/8 Fairlady 240Z model . And the 100 books are also the most valuable part of this model . I actually don’t need the model , I wanted the DVD and the books . Kats
  16. The dash certainly is not the final design. The top of the radio/heater cluster extends out much farther into the cabin and the margins are not as filleted nor the edges as smoothed. Here is another interesting pre-production dash:
  17. Here is one example of tail lights (and dual exhaust) in Aug-Oct 1967 designing period. Note the license light in the bumper and keyhole in the hatch lip. Shark gills are a bit obvious.
  18. More photos from testing the 240z in the 60's to get a better picture: Comparison Cars: Slalom check Egress Checks Aero Models Crash Z
  19. Hi everyone, thanks so much for your inputs .Those inputs make this thread attractive so much . I really appreciate it , as usual . Recently I have been writing about various kinds of cars , today I am back on route , Datsun 240Z vs Fairlady Z432 . I want to say , both are great great cars , each cars has each fantastic things . About their engines , here are some comparisons . ” Stock specification “ L24 150 ps , 21kgm / S20 160 ps , 19 kgm ” L24 Racing specification “ 200 ps , 24.5 kgm (71 Monte / Safari ) 250 ps , 25.5 kgm (73 RAC , 2498 cc ) “ S20 Racing specification “ 200 ps , ( 69 JAF Grand Prix ) GTR 253 ps , 21.9 kgm ( 71 mid ) GTR 265 ps , ( 72 Fuji Masters ) GTR Wonderful engines they are , Nissan is not a manufacture like Ferrari or Porsche, but I think Nissan did great ! An interesting interview of Nissan works rally team manager Mr. Namba and Mr . Wakabayashi after winning of 1971 Safari rally he said “ we dropped its engine power like a normal car , range 2000-6500 rpm , compression ratio 8.0 ( usually 9.5 for racing) . We assumed average octan 93 , field elevation 0-3200 meters for the race. High-tuned engine is not good for this race , we used standard head gasket , we shaped inside of dome . Also carburetor setup is the key , this rally has various field elevations from zero to 3200 meters , that made us feel challenging. With the assumed octan 93 , we finally settled down setting them at 1800 meters , that was Nairobi “ ... I am so amazed by reading this interview, what a fascinating they were ! And a clever thing is , they filled up their 510 rally cars with six different kinds of fuel before sending back them to Japan ( maybe this was common for rally team ? ) after winning of the 1970 Safari rally. They thought quality of gas was not the same , they needed to know what was the average quality so that making trouble free engine . They analyzed and tested those fuel , then they had got the plan for the 1971 Safari rally. Also an interesting interview for the three ex Prince Murayama engineers is so much fun to read , they did so hard on their racing S20 engine . I will write about it later . • Citation Nissan graph June 1971 DATSUN 510 & 240Z ( Grand Prix Shuppan ) SKYLINE 2000 GTR MEMORIAL ( Yaesu Shuppan ) Kats
  20. That's a 130-P model Cedric with an H20 4cyl engine running on LPG.
  21. This interprit contains not correct part, and I see also Japanese text is not right , Mr.Fujita should select Japanese words correctly . The point is , there is no stock L24 which has better paformance than the racing S20 , Never . (We know L type engine was born from practical parents , S20 engine was born from racing parents ) . Maybe people want to disrespect S20 in some reason , but a stock L24 and a stock S20 are almost same performance. A racing L24 and a racing S20 are almost same performance. The one has more capacity , the other has more advanced technology. That's it . They both are awsome engine , just enjoy each "feelings" , "flavor" . I haven't heard from S20 owners saying "my S20 is better than the L20 , 24... , etc. Kats
  22. You're just scatter-shooting again. Where's your critique of the content? You post it as though you believe every word. Isn't this the same Classic Motorsports Magazine article that implied BRE 'discovered' the L24 crank harmonic problem and 'reported' it to Nissan Japan, hence taking some credit for the re-design of the crank and the 'cure'? We've been through all this before of course (Deja Vu all over again...) but Nissan knew about the problem - and already had the re-designed crank going into production and testing - before BRE had received their first 240Z. As for your "...early L24 crank failures and possibly why the L24 did not race in Japan until this was sorted", this doesn't stand up to even the most basic scrutiny, does it? Well before mid 1969 Nissan had already put in place their plans for racing and rallying the new S30-series Z range. That's why the 432-R existed in the first place, and why Nissan was putting together a program of International rallying for the 240Z (they were testing a PZR-bodied, L24R-engined works rally mule on the Monte Carlo Rallye route in January 1970), all of which made sense for its domestic and export marketing strategies. The article's "...the 240Z’s new American-market, six-cylinder engines had never been designed for or even expected to see competition." is ill-informed USA-centric twaddle, isn't it?
  23. Not only is it color, but Safari Gold color!
  24. "As valid" as what? Any replica/tribute/'phantom' project is fine by me. But you are - once again - missing the wider point. The Real Thing always demands a premium. Does somebody buy one of these cars when they actually would have settled for something completely different? Are there people out there who can easily afford a Michaelangelo - and actually want one - but who say 'Nah! I'll get a dot matrix printed copy instead'..? Where were your pithy comments about the so-called "Franklin Mint" car? I would have thought that if you need any of this explaining to you it's too late. It's already gone over your head.
  25. Maybe you can start a little side business to tell art galleries that they don't need to buy those Rothkos, and that you'll knock them up something similar at a fraction of the price...?
  26. I've not seen one for the 260. What tool would you be using to create the diagram? There's a great one for the 77 done in AutoCAD. Would it save you work to start from that and modify it for the 260, or would it be just as easy to start from scratch?
  27. Some of the smaller panels after dent straightening and sand blasting: And other parts getting stripped. Lots of stripping!
  28. Thought I would resurrect this thread to add some info that I learned yesterday working on my own speedometer problem. My speedometer on my early 72 suddenly stopped working Friday. My first thought was speedometer cable. I removed and verified that it was just fine. Next thing I tested was the gauge. I was really hoping it wasn't the gauge because I see no practical way to pull the gauge without pulling the dash. Seems like some people have done this successfully but I don't think I could. The way I tested the gauge is I attached the cable to the gauge and disconnected from the transmission. I pulled the transmission side of the cable from under the car so I could hold the transmission end while watching the gauge. As Zed Head mentions above, if you pull the cable out a bit and turn while pushing, you can feel the cable seat into the gauge securely. Once seated I simply turned the transmission end of the cable counter clockwise (by hand, no drill needed) and was able to see the speedometer needle move. So, gauge was fine. Next, I removed the speedometer spindle / housing at the transmission. If yours has been in there a long time it can be a little challenging to remove. Tap on it a lot (without damaging threads). Remove the 10mm bolt and metal piece that slides into the spindle housing slot. I used a flat head screwdriver and the housing slot to kind of pry the spindle housing out. Be prepared for transmission fluid to pour out a bit. What I found is that the plastic speedometer gear was damaged badly: the teeth were worn away on one side. I installed a new spare I had on hand and my speedometer works as it should again. Remember to line up the slot square relative to the bolt hole. When you reinstall the spindle and housing, it will feel like there is a lot of resistance. Oil everything up, especially the o-ring (use a new one). Press firmly and it should pop in. Don't hammer (see below). While you are at it, think about whether it is time to replace transmission oil. At a minimum, top off your oil if any leaked out. Finally, connect the speedometer cable at the transmission. Follow what Zed Head wrote.Rotate the cable pulling and pushing until you feel it seat in the gauge. Then, hold it in position and slide the cable into the transmission spindle slot so that the cable will be driven turned as the car moves. Tighten up the bolt by hand. I am not totally sure why this happened. I refreshed the transmission last summer and I remember having a difficult time re-installing the spindle / housing. Could be that I got too aggressive forcing it back in. Hope this helps someone dealing with speedometer issues....and especially eliminate every other possible problem before heading down the path of removing the gauge or worse the dash.
  29. While you have those gauges apart you should pull the guts and repaint the insides of the cans a nice bright flat white. No matter what bulbs you choose, that will always help. Personally I don't like the harshness of the LED replacement "bulbs" that I have seen - I'm very old school that way. But repainting the inside of my gauges made a huge change in the brightness even using stock 3.4 watt bulbs.
  30. Thanks 240260280 and all, such great responses. I only wish that I had paid closer attention to these details when my car was new (who knew?). Here are a couple of pics/white paint dot on fuel pump center cap screw, and red paint mark on throttle control set screw along with small green mark on same.
  31. Here are a couple of pix that I have on file that show the placement of the 'vent' holes in the later-design hatch side panels (I'm pretty sure that the panels for the Series 1 design did not have these holes). I don't have a precise measurement (and I'm too lazy to go out to the garage to make one), but the holes appear to be about 2/3 the diameter of the holes used for the plastic rivets... In the 1980's, I worked as a project engineer for a company that designed and built wind tunnels (not model-scale -- the real ones) for the automotive and aerospace industries. We worked with Porsche, Honda, Volvo, Ford, Hyundai and others (even Williams GP Engineering, but that's another story). It was clear that the auto manufacturers at that time were only just beginning to pay proper attention to locating and sizing the cabin extractor vents for effective HVAC performance. The Z was designed in the late 1960's and the extractor vent positioning appears to have been based on educated guesswork rather than wind tunnel testing (although Nissan did own a wind tunnel at the time). Even when working as designed, the Series 1's extractor vent system can be best described as an intriguing but complicated failure. The re-location of the vents in the C-pillars got rid of the exhaust fume problem and the water drainage requirement (along with a lot of parts and assembly steps), but the revised design doesn't provide enough outlet area to be very effective. So I wouldn't be too concerned about venting the plastic interior trim panels because it's not going to make much difference.
  32. Almost finished. Still looking for proper material for drain tube. I hope member is happy with the results. It was great to have the products from rubberparts.com available for this project.
  33. Thanks Kats. That would help out a lot of members.
  34. Hi, I wrote a message to HARADA Ltd customers relationship, about a request of the antenna mast replacement. I do not know they will reply , I am waiting hearing from them. Kats
  35. If the mast could be reproduced with the correct tip it would be a no-brainer to have at the very least 100 reproduced. What is the cost per unit? I had forgotten about the seal ring under the retainer. I hope that along with the cap Nix can reproduce this part. With the mast and the rubber parts correct restoration of an antenna for the early Z will be possible.
  36. It would be best if the comparison testing was done on the same dyno. Otherwise, the (probably) small differences measured could have to do as much with dyno A vs. dyno B as they do with exhaust system X vs. exhaust system Y. I haven't looked at chassis dyno specs for a long time, but back in my day, the best chassis dynos that speedshops could afford were based on eddy-current absorber technology and IIRC the absolute accuracy was on the order of +/- 5% . Decent repeatability, but only so-so absolute accuracy. The automotive and fuels/lubricants industry R&D labs that I worked with used controllable DC machines, where the accuracy was +/- 0.5%. Those units cost anywhere from $500K to $1 Million. The low-end machines may be better than they used to be, but it's always best to be using the same measurement device if you're looking to detect small differences with confidence.
  37. Tired of the old SLOW and Tired wipers on your 240Z? Ya, Me too. SO I did some research on the subject over at HybridZ and found that for a few years now, people have been trying to use the 94' Accord and 91' Civic wiper motors as a replacement to the Datsun wiper motor that ONLY like to move if the window is WET... So I read every thread and post on the subject to find out as much as possible. All I found was pictures and posts by people saying that "it works great BUT..... The wiper does'nt PARK when you turn the switch to OFF. You have to shut the wiper switch off at the EXACT moment to get the blades to sit in the usual DOWN position. So I went to the junk yard and pulled a 91' Honda Civic wiper motor, brought it home and tore the gear/contact cover off to find what made it click and Also to find why nobody, after 4 years, could get the wiper to "PARK" I wrote everything down that I saw, put it back together and studied the their wiring diagrams and my diagrams. So I wire up the wiper the way everyone else had been doing it for a few years and started tesing each and every wire. I discovered what they had missed and decided to wire up a relay, the way I thought it should be, to get the wipers to "PARK" and then gave it some power. Slow speed worked great, high speed worked even better. So I kicked it back down to slow then crossed my fingers and turn the switch off. It spun a little before the relay kicked in, then it finished it's rotation and stopped exactly where it should have. So I did it a bunch of times and it stopped in the exact same spot every time. So in other words, I seem to have fixed the problem that plagued people who have done the conversion before. Below is everything you'll need to know about putting in a 91' Honda Civic wiper motor into your 240Z. I've done the conversion and it's FRICKEN AWESOME!!! The first time I tried the wipers was in my garage on a DRY window with NEW wiper blades. I made a video of it for any unbelievers and also to show how the OFF position Parks the blades at the end of the rotation. So here's some more good news, the Datsun wiper motor mounting screws work on the Honda motor AND the Datsun wiper arm bracket will slide right onto the Honda motor shaft without modification. When you go to the Pull-A-Part, SAVE THE BOLTS and the NUT & WASHER. If you buy the motor at the Auto Parts Store, it will NOT normally come with bolts or the bracket mounting nut. Here is the Short list of needed items....... 1) 91' Honda wiper motor (make sure to unplug the motor and also remove the female end from the honda with at least 6 to 8 inches of wire past the female plug, you'll need the female end if you wanna make a custom adaptor type harness) I paid $6.50 at the local Pull-A-Part, Schucks Auto Supply wanted about $100. Go Used. 1) 20/30 amp 12 volt relay from the auto parts store (usually about $5.00) 1) 6-terminal Datsun Plug (exactly like the one on your Datsun wiper motor, or Voltage regulator or pre 3/73' Combo switch on the harness side. I sell these and the terminals if you would like to make a brand new adaptor for your conversion The other possibility is to Cut off your plug and wires from your Datsun Wiper motor, it's up to you. You can even Hard wire the Honda motor in if you'd like. 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue-------------pin 87 ________ pin 30--------blue Blue/red-----------pin 85-------pin 85----------green/black Black----------------------to------------------black Blue/yellow----------------to-------------------blue/yellow ________________________________________________________ Here are the pics for drilling the Datsun wiper Plate, notching the plate to seat the Honda motor correctly, and that's it. 5 small cuts, 3 small holes. If you have any questions and don't mind reading alot more, check out this link for every single detail. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82292 After the New Honda Motor is installed in your Z, turn the wipers on once or twice to 1) Make sure the motor is working correctly and running and 2) to Park the wiper studs in the right position before installing the wiper blades. Feel free to ask questions here, post results, share added info (other years and models of Honda wiper motors that are identical etc.) Dave. Datsun to Honda wiper diagram.bmp This post has been promoted to an article
  38. Got the other side finished and the rest of the stitch welding done and a few other patches, Now this the job I have been putting off cause I'm not sure if I'm up to the task, compound angles, multiple layers and not much room to work without removing the quarter panel and I really don't want to do that. Oh, and those patches on the inside lip of the wheel well, that's not my work. I'm way down that rabbit hole now, got most of the garbage out of the way before I called it a day.
  39. Well this is a subject that I leave to guys that understand it but I'm pretty sure megasquirt has this algorithm that combines the TPS, air and coolant temp to form a map that allows multiple ITBs like mine to function properly. Matt didn't seem to have any problem tuning the engine back in the summer. I'm probably not mentioning some other key sensor that ties it all together. Jumped in today and started installing patches, bracing and working on the stitch welds.
  40. "It might make the likes of Grannyknot orgasm into his popcorn" Pics or it didn't happen.
  41. The winning L24 and engine compartment seems pretty basic from the outside. A few items to note: throttle linkage replaced by cable dead-headed fuel piping architecture oil cooler and fittings deleted mechanical fuel pump alternate PCV system with large white plastic catch can deleted fan non-stock damper pulley remote oil pressure measurement sensor fibreglass belly pan hood latch delete (racing pin arrangement) stock battery, alternator, distributor, radiator, coil, starter very light coloured distributor cap. Plugs seem stock. stock wiring harness unknown hose from battery area to drain on left tower/wheel well. It seems to go behind battery then across the fire wall to the transmission tunnel area. heater hose delete shortened/modified fuel rail stock-ish fuel filter Stock hood prop, vent elbows, rad over-flow drain hose, v-reg cover Washer fluid hoses in place along with stock wipers brake booster not in shot. Master brake cylinder and clutch master cylinder seems to be stock no camber mods to shock towers engine lift bracket in place
  42. So simply put, set the initial to 17 degrees at 750 RPMs. Since I have 8.5 weights, add 17 for a total of 34 degrees on my dial back light. At 2,500 RPMs with the light set to 34 I should adjust the distributor until the big notch (TDC) on the pulley lines up with the pointer, 0 degrees. That would give me total advance of 34. Drive it and see how it performs? What should the vacuum pull on the front carb be at 2,500 RPM? I'll hook my vacuum gauge up and get some numbers and report back. Thanks guys
  43. I found the Excel spreadsheet Walter Moore made. I have the D6K8-05 10 degrees at idle 17 weights 20 vacuum 47 total @2,500 rpms Thank you @Walter Moore D6K8-05 10 17 20 47 2500 27 M 1979
  44. And Gallery Link is broken again. New link to member profile here: http://www.classiczcars.com/profile/8135-take432r/ and gallery link (Which is working for now).
  45. I wanted to start a thread where people can discuss the latest value information on our beloved Z cars. I attended Barrett Jackson auto auction on Saturday and only saw one Datsun sale - a 1500 Roadster which sold for $22K. Link below. There were lots of old Toyota Land Cruisers which were selling for between $20K to $50K. Prices on the usual 50's and 60's Detroit Iron were all over the map. Most of the really nice cars clearly sold for less than their restoration costs, which makes car restoration a labor of love and not logic. But most of us knew that already! Impressions were that prices were down. Last year Ron Pratte sold his entire collection of premium classic cars at BJ. No one knows why. Since Ron is a savvy businessman, this "dump" leads many to believe that classic American car prices are heading down, since some say baby boomers are losing interest in cars as they age. And some say the next hot area may be Japanese cars since this is what many millennials drove when they were young and now that they are older & working they have disposable income for the fine Jap classics. In any case, post your thoughts and/or information in this thread! http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1965-DATSUN-1500-ROADSTER-189458
  46. Typical mainland Chinese... looks like a cap, feels like a cap but it ain't. It's a polished turd that fakes a real cap. Mainland China specializes in this and they are very good at it. Now that their economy is cooling, they are using even more watering-down methods. Now I avoid everything I can from China or labelled "imported for". For your problem, use non-chinese hose ~ 4" and 2 hose clamps. Stick a stainless bolt in the end and clamp it.
  47. I've had this happen when I replaced a transmission. It's possible to get the cable housing, or sheath, attached without actually having the cable end inserted in to the speedo drive gear. Disconnect it at the transmission, draw the cable out an inch or so and insert it in to the drive gear (give it a twist while inserting and you'll feel it drop in), then attach the housing/sheath to the transmission. I usually turn the drive shaft while screwing down the sheath attachment to make sure the cable drops in at the speedo end also.
  48. It isn't ABS. It's Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP) although there actually isn't any plastic in it. It's actually some type of polymer base with fiber (appears to be fiberglass) embedded. When you replace the studs consider using brass or stainless instead of ferrous steel. Also use a standard nut, flat and lock washer along (preferably of the same material as the stud). with a bit of anti-seize. Nylocks used here could just cause another broken stud.
  49. 1 point
    A shot of the new firewall insulation on my '73 240Z See more at: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/bs_insulation/webtour-1/index.htm