Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/19/2018 in all areas

  1. jfa.series1


    I understand your concern over remembering where everything goes after plating - we all go thru that. Here's a suggested approach: - During disassembly, carefully bag and tag everything immediately as it comes off the car. DO NOT consolidate stuff, make it specific. Use a paper tag inside the zip bag with the parts to identify what it is / where it came from - a felt tip marker on the bag can easily rub off. - Thoroughly clean everything in a bag, remove all rust, dirt, paint, ...etc. The better you clean things, the better your plating results (remember the old axiom: garbage in. garbage out). A wire brush wheel on a bench grinder is great! Take stuff apart wherever possible: bolts, nuts, washers, springs, ...etc. If the factory plated things before assembly, so should you. - When a bag of parts is clean, photo the parts with the paper tag visible. Put it all back in the bag until all is done. - Small parts like washers, nuts, tiny springs can and will get lost in plating if left loose. Use some thin, soft wire to make closed loops for like things: nuts, washers, springs. For tiny screws, tightly wrap thin wire a couple of times around the threads then give it a twist to lock it in place (see pics). - When everything is cleaned, the moment of truth arrives: time to dump everything into a big zip bag to take to plating. Save your small bags and tags for use later when it all comes back. If you've properly documented everything, you should be able to return all parts to their original bag with tag. Good luck. -
  2. kats

    Is this a new find?

    Thank you everyone, I think so too , no more covers , that is our loss . Mr. Sudo really love Fairlady Roadster , he also did his work for his car . Nice red interior and navy soft top ! Kats
  3. gwri8

    Manifold gasket?

    This is the Nissan gasket I put on my N7 head with round ports. I've been happy with it and it's held up just fine for almost 3 year now.
  4. 26th-Z


    I have been using the green media for which I posted a link. It wears out pretty fast compared to stiffer media I have used. Tumbler times? Usually overnight, minimum 4 hours, more like six. Bigger parts, big bolts take longer. Little washers actually help the process by banging into each other. No, it doesn't damage the threads. I wash and dip the tumbled stuff in OSPHO before I inspect everything. Sometimes I run a tap or die over the threads. Don't let the OSPHO drip dry. It will cake in the threads. Wipe everything off with a dry towel. And your'e good to go.
  5. Does the temperature gauge work? What did it read? Yes they can overheat quickly if there is a problem. Overheating these aluminum headed engines is a no-no.
  6. Obie 280Z

    Finished brake upgrade

    The stopping is better in my limited testing so far but not night and day. Did some hard stops at 40. Normally the back would lock and get a little sideways. Now almost no lockup and quicker deceleration. I stayed with the stock prop.? valve. Kept the little insert in the MC for the back drums, cleaned drums, looked like they still had plenty of wall left. The new front pads are ceramic and the back shoes and MSA multi compound. Think back were about $79. Petal travel feels about the same. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. 1 point
    ZCON is in Atlanta in 2018. Track day at Road Atlanta. You might even get to be on the track with John Morton. Autocrossing, karting, brewery night, mountain drives...You KNOW you want to make it. Special guests include Toshio Yamashita, designer of the Z32; Yoshihiko Matsuo, designer of the 240Z; and Peter Brock & John Morton, two of the legends from BRE. Go to http://zcon.org/conventions/2018/?page_id=132 to get to the registration link. https://youtu.be/itAz7Szpb-k
  8. Mike

    Off topic... 69 Bronco acquired

    Looks like a great find! The older Bronco's are slick!
  9. Captain Obvious

    Off topic... 69 Bronco acquired

    Sweet! My first car was a beat up Falcon with a 170 and 3 on the tree. Unsynchronized first gear. I learned a lot about transmissions with that car. A whole lot...
  10. Patcon


    I don't believe it was sealed from the factory. Which is why they rust out there. I wouldn't use any of the marine caulk products. I would get a dedicated seam sealer and use that. The seam sealer will take paint. I would also try to treat any rust that is down in there first

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.