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  1. Been working hard to improve my photography skills so I shot my dad's orange Z this morning. These are my favorites. Shot with a Canon 6D.
  2. Still needs a tune and bumpers and a myriad of other things, but I started it for the first time in 6.5 years (and since the body was restored) yesterday: Before the restoration, way back in 2011: Totally rusted out pass. floor pan and rockers, mismatched tires, faded non-original color paint, etc etc. I've done everything except the actual body restoration (welding, paint, etc). All the disassembly, reconditioning of parts, reassembly, etc. It's been a LOT of work, and it's not over yet, but... I just wanted to take a short victory lap. Thanks for all the support and great advice.
  3. Cars on the ground. Fuel is in, ready to load the first run file and start the engine on Saturday! Hopefully no fireworks.
  4. Covid Tuning SK Racing Carbs for a friend. BRE 46 Tribute
  5. I took the 260Z on a local "Maskparade" tour. I had the only old Japanese car out there, and it did draw some attention before the tour started. However, many more people came by after we were done. It was fun to get it out on the roads, and it drove so well.
  6. Not being satisfied with the "plump" look that resulted from my first attempt, I decided to be more radical and opened the visors again, took out all the foam I had added and all the factory green foam pads as well. I started with the now totally empty visor skins and prepared a "sandwich" consisting of a single piece of black 10mm thick high density foam precisely cut to shape, covered with a single layer of 2mm sheet of the same foam on each side. I beveled the edges a bit before reinserting into the visor skins. Closed up the same way as before. I'm super satisfied with the much improved flatness and stock appearance. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  7. Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart!
  8. @EuroDat & @Zed Head Happy to ask! No promises on any of this though. Having worked for an OEM in the past, sometimes finding old specs and doing small runs can be impossible and/or expensive. Fingers crossed that is not the case. @grannyknot still trying to find out. Just got passed from purchasing to their motorsport division in Japan. Still trying to track down the right person.
  9. I own a few (OK more than a few) older muscle cars but always loved the Z - so I just bought a 1971 Z sight unseen and had it delivered this morning. Ya, not a good idea to buy a car without looking at it, especially an early Datsun but I took a chance. Other than leaking gas from the gas line it ran not bad - oh and the turn signal is totally pooched (already ordered a new one, as he told me about it). The one issue it does have is some minor perforations in one - possibly both rear frame rails of the car. Have most people just replaced the whole rail or can you pretty easily cut out the small section and replace the metal? Seems to be isolated in one area right towards the rear portion of the rail and the rest of the rail is totally solid. The car was from Arizona and other than one other small patch in the floorboards in front of the wheel well on passenger side the car is crazy clean of rust. The wheel wells - both outer and inner, rockers, rear valance and floor all completely original metal with no repairs or rust. Car was parked since 1987. Pictures below. Paint is worse than it looks. lots of patina and orange peel - plan to leave it as is cause I love the originality of it. Anybody have a general idea of rough values on series 2 driver condition Z's? The prices are all over the map...had a hard time assessing what they are worth in driver condition - a few on BAT looked really nice and sold for low 20's. My dash is cracked - like most, as it was from Arizona. Lastly, me head hits the damn roof...I am 6 2. Leg room good. Roof room sucks!
  10. http://www.alfaparts.net/dat280.html His Datsun panel selection is still small but he plans on offering more. Not great photos on his site but the detail looks crisper than Tabco products.
  11. I discovered that the fuel level sensor was leaking on the live terminal where there is insulating plastic, remember this photo? To confirm it, I hung the thing from the float over night, with the “bowl” bit filled with self penetrating oil. The next day there was ample oil on the other side to prove it’s no longer air tight. I could have repaired it with fuel resistant mastics but I started to look at the cost of a new one. Utterly HORRENDOUS prices. Over £300 for the right shaped one. Then one appeared on eBay advertised for a Datsun 510 with very similar kinks etc so I took a punt at £40! Today, this little package arrived ... Now you can see the differences below: The resistances however are virtually identical +/- 1/2 an ohm. 10.8 ohms full, 88.5 ohms empty. I was tempted to move the rod and float from one to the other but decided that as it involved cutting the squashed end and re-calibrating, I was going to have a go at bending the new one first. I straightened up the first kink on the new one, measured the length of the same king on the old one and bent it in the same place as the 260z sensor. The end result? Ignoring the parallax of the iPhone lens, it turned out utterly perfect. It even sorted out the difference in length - they are now identical in length also. I gave it a test run in the fuel tank and fortuitously, there is plenty of room in the tank for the float to sit the opposite way round to the original. The bottom of the tank is actually deeper at that point and thanks to the PO has a raised bit where the POR treatment wasn’t fully flushed out. That will give me “reserve” when the gauge is on empty. A total win!! Next up, a test on the car electrics to see it “turn up to 11” on the gauge ;).
  12. After recently removing my exhaust header I was able read the casting number on my E31 block, The casting number is located low on the left side, just back from center and in raised characters reads "0630I". Using the decoding method suggested by @katsthat would make it 50 years old today. Here is the old topic from back in 2004, where this was discussed:
  13. The lighting makes a huge difference to me. Before sunrise, after sundown they look redder.
  14. My father bought his '78 280z brand new in February 1978 and the 5 speed was a $165 option in both 1977 and 1978. I currently have 2 1978 280z's with original 4 speed transmissions as delivered new from the factory. Here is one of them which had previously been on BaT: https://www.motorcarclassics.com/1978-datsun-280z-c-92.htm
  15. You're an 'Lstepp4re' fan club member then? 😄 It must be you that's sending him all the DMs about "significant Z movements", LOL. I didn't see any pond-crossing pissing match (what did I miss?) but I did witness Lstepp4re once again actively bidding up a car he had no intention of buying, attempting to control the narrative in the comments during the auction as well as threatening legal action against somebody (a fellow American) who simply disagreed with him. Bring-a-Trailer mods hit the delete button a few times and it was all swept neatly under the carpet. Maybe I'm in the minority in being allergic to superannuated, arriviste blowhards and their fanbois?
  16. As a pleasant footnote: James @MSA offered a store credit for the full amount of the sender I bought from them that broke during installation($200) if I returned it! So it's on its way to them now. I'm happy about that and MSA will continue to be one of my the suppliers for my Z parts. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  17. Finally had a car show that wasn't cancelled. I just wish it could have been when the temperature was below average.
  18. A little more custom bling for the engine bay!
  19. UPDATE: I spoke with the owner Dave and he told me that just minutes after he posted his listing on Craigslist that he had numerous phone calls for days that were not only located in all parts of the US, but also from Europe. He insisted that the six 240Zs be sold as a package and he had multiple parities bidding on the 240Zs. A gentleman from California was the winning bidder and he flew to Spokane to meet the seller, inspect the cars and see that all 6 cars were loaded on the carrier company's truck. The seller also mentioned that the new owner already owns a few 240Zs and is very passionate about 240Zs and plans to restore an keep all six of the cars. The seller also told me that the two 260Zs and the all 280Zs and 280ZXs were all still available.
  20. Hi Guys - looks like "The Z Car Home Page" at ZHome.com is back on-line now.. thanks, Carl
  21. The foam insulation went in Monday and much to my delight drywall today.
  22. Yep, it usually is the slave cylinder. both times it happened to me I was enroute to somewhere. I can tell you from experience that a Z is very easy to drive without an operating clutch pedal. Little problem shifting up or down (as long as you match revs to the trans speed) , the fun comes at a stop light when you have to turn off the engine. 1st gear, half throttle, turn the key, it chugs forward a couple of feet and you're on your way.
  23. So all the conclusions I made in the last post on May 16th are all wrong, air is not a good substitute for brake fluid when testing The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I made some videos of the 3 tests and they are here if interested, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131534-wilwood-proportioning-valve/?tab=comments#comment-1221616 With the brakes mostly sorted and I should mention the braking action is fantastic, 2-3x better than the Toyota/Maxima combo, I started working on the fault codes🙄 There are a few ghost codes for things the ECU doesn't control anymore and will get a round to scrubbing those off but the Bank 1 O2 sensor is reading bad but it's brand new. I'm going to install the used O2 sensor the engine came with to see if that makes a difference and the engine keeps wanting to stall when I come to a stop, that's only real problem at the moment. My on-going hunt for more power is now over, the few times I have stepped on it, it has scared the crap out of me, the acceleration is insane in a car this light. Love it. First pic, just a little hint of what's under the hood. .
  24. Spent some time yesterday cleaning the dash and some of the ventilation system parts to ready for storage. I am storing select parts on shelves in my office the rest will in my crawl space and organized on shelves and bins in my garage. I under estimated the space required but I'm doing my best to be organized so that I won't have to rely to much on my memory when I eventually get on to re-assembly.
  25. I just saw a link to this on Facebook: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/180?fbclid=IwAR0HVhjrJgKGzxMYHPycwJpWO9Ap0gIyhjS4IIK0YQlwjk7P7wnjk2GxvN0 It could be helpful to someone who needs to repair electrical connections in his/her Z.
  26. Here's a few more photo updates. Assembly is moving right along. Sent gas tank and radiator out last week for sealing and re-core. Ordered braided hoses and exhaust parts from Jay. The long poles are the headliner and vintage dash. Hopefully will have this running is a couple weeks.
  27. We are talking about replacing the original bushing with something that has similar characteristics. We know the PU aftermarket bushings transfer a lot of diff noise to the body so making any bush out of PU doesn't seem to has any advantage. I have made PU insulators for the fuel lines and other stuff for my own 280Z, but getting it to hold to the metal components enough to take the stress would be hard to achieve. It would need to be a part from another car with a similar purpose. For example the original positon for the bolt was in the vertical position, otherwise it would probably fail quickly due to stress it was not designed for.
  28. Thanks Brandon! The Datsun 240Z is an incredibly beautiful automobile design and you have certainly brought that out in your pictures. The best shots of the 311 pictures you took.....nice work!!!!
  29. My son has the perfect filming car . His Model 3 will out run me all day , but also quietly film me . Third gear pull.
  30. I too feel saddened that these cars are becoming unreachable for the average person. Seeing #1 and #2 cars go into six figures means they aren't a car that will be driven and enjoyed by average guys. The days of driving one to work or school as daily driver are long gone, and my fear of something happening to mine when I go out or on a roadtrip is stressful as I am unlikely to be able to easily replace it. Jeff, I recall seeing your car and talking to you at Gingerman shortly after you built it. I still run track days (in a Miata) and have been looking for a Z to run. Sadly, I also see that dream slipping away as the cars become more collectible. About a year ago, I went to an estate sale and saw a Z for sale that was in somewhat rough shape. I considered buying it to turn into my track car, but couldn't bring myself to do that to a car that could be restored and enjoyed by someone else. I prefer to find a car that has already been converted to a race/track car. It seems like finding the right one for the right price may never happen. Luis
  31. A timely post on windshields. Last year I replaced my original pitted windshield with a oem green tint, no blue top band replacement manufactured by Fuyao Glass. Fuyao is a large oem manufacturer with plants here and overseas. I discovered that Vintage Glass sources the Fuyao windshields and re-sells them. The total cost with shipping was very high, so after much research, I found a very large glass distributor in Tulsa that had them in stock and picked it up at their warehouse. Very recently, a group of us, including a notable member in Austin purchased a number of the Fuyao S30 windshields. We discovered that this distributor had a total of 9 in various warehouses around the country. We purchased all of their existing inventory, and after they arrived, picked them up. At this point are all are spoken for. The distributor indicated that they had no idea when or if they would ever be manufactured again. This is what drove our decision to purchase all of the inventory. I took a quick picture after unloading them last weekend...
  32. He doesn't want much for it. I assume that he wants it delivered though. "I’m looking to trade for a full-dresser. Let me know what you have."
  33. I did a bit of searching and found the thread on the mustache bars where I had downloaded the photos for the 280Z bushes a couple of years back. . The thread was about the bushes and possible alternatives. @kats posted a lot of photos of all the different variations he came accross on page 2. These is also a tool on page 3 made by a someone back in 2011 to flare the outer ring over the mustache bar
  34. Time is money as they say. A friend completely sand blasted a Triumph TR6 he was restoring - frame, body panels, suspension, etc. Used a Craftsman siphon blaster ($20 iirc) and a compressor similar to the one Bill is considering. Laid out a very large tarp to catch the sand so he could recycle it. It took forever, but he got it done. So, if you want your time back, you have to spend money and go with better and bigger equipment. Deals can be as had. I paid $650 for my compressor (one year old) with a line drier and supplied-air respirator pump, lines, and hoods. Came from a bedliner company going out of business. They were SO relieved someone wanted it! I was happy to oblige. 😁 The A/C condenser and furnace blower is a great idea for getting water out of the air. A long time ago I ran 1" copper pipe all the way around my garage with one drop leg. Drain valve at the bottom of the leg and the air take-off was 12" higher. It worked pretty well, but as with all things, it becomes a matter of degree. Anything is better than nothing, and more is better still.
  35. Fresh engines should have the valve lash checked often. As the valves wear into the seats, lash will tighten and keep the valves open longer. This can cause rough-running and compression problems. Also do a leak-down check before tossing the engine out of the car. That will tell you where your problem may lie and is a fundamental step in troubleshooting compression issues.
  36. As previously mentioned, you need to make a change with the headlight harness to convert it from the negative ground switched to positive switched for the led lights to work. If you are in the market for led's, take a look at Vintage Car Led Headlights (they don't look funny) https://vintagecarleds.com/7-inch-round-headlights/ Highly recommended ....
  37. I have a pdf of the 520/521 Datsun Pickup parts catalog and in the explanation of Nissan parts number system it mentions the Nissan NES part numbering system for hardware type items, here is a snippet: This parts catalog doesn't have full detail of the NES system but with a google search i found some interesting info on datsun1200.com. There is an article on the evolution of Nissan part numbers. I can't vouch for it's accuracy but here is a snippet on the 10 digit breakdown that expands on what you describe above: Here is a link to the web page, http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=NES_Part_Numbers Cheers, Mike I think I found the topic you were looking for, funny its references the same site I found,
  38. @Mark Maras The plan for now is just to get it running and driving well. Then I’d like it to be a bit lower, better wheels and triple carbs look pretty cool and fun. But that stuff will be later. And I still want a 240Z too, but this car seems too solid to get rid of right now. @heyitsrama Hey, maybe we can get together sometime! I don’t have any Datsun buddies yet. The vin is 023321its a February ‘74 car. @wheee! Gotta have an extinguisher, especially with the new unknown cars.
  39. Just another quick update. The Z is almost on the road, I had few minor electrical issues and I'm currently waiting for a new brake master vac. My new seats finally came in from Japan after waiting almost 2 months due to Covid-19.
  40. Some progress! Drivetrain buttoned up and now runs, drives and stops! Still a lot of tidying up to do on engine bay and as you can see from the photographs, fuel system isn't complete as there is some metal/bodywork to do around the filler area, and I still need to wire the fuel pump and find a new ignition relay. Anyway, moved the car under its own power yesterday for the first time in almost 2 years and she sounds good! She's now in the bodyshop and will be there for the next approximately 6 weeks for body and exterior paint. After that, going to a shop in Sacramento for a few button up items that I don't feel confident to tackle myself, with the hope of being on the road by end of the Summer!
  41. Get a bulb seal. No clips needed.
  42. In the 2 or 3 I've done so far, the amount of suction is spectabulus (yes I invented a word, no beer involved) so there is no problem with getting fuel from tank with an air filled line. Only time will tell about real world performance and life. The only thing I screwed up was getting the check valves in the right way the first time. And maybe the second....
  43. Mine has 2208J. So that matches the build date of 02/72. '72 February 8th but what does the "J" stand for? Is it just a batch symbol possibly?
  44. Hi all, Well when in doubt go back to the basics. Air, do you have? Spark, do you have enough? Fuel, again, do you have the amount you need at the carbs? So, #1, check spark plugs. They were fouled with fuel. A quick clean job and ready to go. #2, checked the throttle linkage. Took them apart, all set so there is no binding anywhere and the linkage goes smoothly back together. Checked the throttle stop screws for proper opening, they were set where they need to be, 1/4 turn from .006 clearance at screws. #3, air, well no restrictions any where, no vacuum leaks. #4, I left the installed 50 F9 idle jets alone and went to an air corrector of 200. Engine back running lean abit in the high 15 to mid 16's. #5, increased idle jets back to the 55F9, air corrector remained the same at 200. Now the motor is a happy camper. Idle, cruse, drivability all back to a few days ago. That's a good thing. Just as we were getting back to the shop, A/F ratios went rich. Checked the spark plugs all sooted up. Now I know they were a bit used up as we had cleaned them several time, So new plugs installed, had to reset idle A/F mixture, test drive showed at cruse high 13's to low 14's. Idle excellent at 14.5. Idle always returning to base setting. Great throttle response. lesson remembered? Sometimes trying to save money by cleaning your sooted up spark plugs not worth it!! I knew we should install new plugs every time we sooted them up, but at that time we were sooting or over heating them up a lot. I decided to just clean them in the bead blaster. New plugs cured all of our issues. The car went to the customer and he was to drive it Friday. Ed
  45. I’ve found that some tasks are best left to a professional body shop. Why God created money!
  46. Zed, There should be 4 on a 75. The fourth is a coolant Temp switch which could be placed on the side of the housing or in the front.
  47. Very nice result. Your perseverance really paid off. Whether we like it or not, stuff done on the underside of a restoration matters only to the faithful. Come up short on the paint or the interior, though, and everybody notices it.
  48. I got a kick out of this. I think his media portrayal is dead on.


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