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  1. Big milestone today, the exhaust system is finished and installed now which allowed me to move along with installation of the heat shields, coolant pressure container and finish up the engine bay electrical. The rad support crossover got some filler, primer, colour and 2 coats of clear today so the rad and oil cooler can go in now, just waiting on one more fitting for the new fuel system and I think I will be ready to turn the key! Of course then I will spent the following week trying to track down why it won't start, that's my usual MO.
  2. As a business owner, if I was being endorsed or using the endorsement of somebody convicted of fraud, I would want to be told. If I continue to use them, then that is my prerogative but I would at least like to be made aware of something that might not be readily known.
  3. Here's what I have. Looks pretty close to me. It's attached to the drier with a worm clamp. I thoght it would be nicer than that but it's the same as your picture. You pay shipping and it's yours. PM your info if you want it. Cliff
  4. Just my opinion, but I doubt that the defect in that lobe is your source of noise. If it were mine, I would inspect the rocker for that lobe and if intact, I’d continue to run what you got.
  5. Pretty same process so many other have done 1st - Green Scotch‑Brite Scrub till you don’t see the nasty brown soapy water. 2nd - Stained Red oak 2 coats. Minwax 70040444 Wood Finish Penetrating Stain. 2 light coats and waited 2 days before adding Varnish. 3rd - spar varnish spray - 4 coats maybe 5 Minwax 33250000 Helmsman Spar Urethane Aerosol, 11.5 ounce, Gloss Waited 3 days for it to cure before moving to the center section. 4 - Black semi gloss 3 coats Let it sit a day before removing tape and tee shirt protecting the varnish. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  6. pakz

    New guy

    Thanks for the info guys. I bought the car around 12 years ago and drove it for a couple years. Have loved these cars since I first saw them. Moved around a bit and let it sit without starting it and then wouldn’t start. Was able to keep it in a garage the whole time and finally have a decent garage of my own to bring it to. Had to work rear passenger wheel with a small mallet and breaker bar to free it and get her to roll. I believe the engine is good but will take the precautions mentioned above. Thanks again siteunseen, zedhead and socal. I’m not too tech savvy but will learn how to navigate this forum. Will post some pics. Interior is pretty solid and odometer is around 56k, not sure if that’s gone around a spin or not but I’ve put very few miles on
  7. Picked up a bunch of stuff from @Richard McDonelyesterday. A very nice gentleman with a beautiful 918 orange restoration underway .... He had a lot of great stuff for sale. Loaded my Avalanche to the brim - might have to go back ... I thought this was interesting. Vertical defrost but no vents .... Took a flyer hoping this steering rack is in better shape than it looks. I get a little nervous when someone has painted over the boots, bushings AND mud 😕😕😕 Fortunately the rack moves smoothly from lock to lock. 30 minutes later had this ... and this ... 😉🤭 Grabbed a couple of fenders and a set of early doors to experiment with ... And couldn't resist this ... all in all, a decent haul ... might have to go back 😀
  8. I never said it did. Just that this guy is running around with his merry men claiming to be the greatest thing to happen to the s30 range in the past 50 years. Its wrong on so many levels.
  9. I have a decent little collection of the long wing bolts and the mating long “nuts” they thread into, but the one part of this assembly that I am lacking in is the little cup washer with the rubber grommet underneath. Been hunting for a replacement in the generic hardware world and have come up virtually empty handed. About the only thing close is from RedLine Performance in Auzzie land. Many of you may have touched these over the years if you’ve done side draft carb installations. Redline 52-110K Those cup washers lower right are perfect, well, they are 3/4” diameter while the real ones are 7/8”. There is one in the first picture top right. I contacted Red line and they do sell the cup washers separately, in fact they make them in-house! The Sku is 52-571B $2.58 I even asked them to please make them 7/8” See what they say. I had previously found a plumbing washer that duplicates the rubber washer in the stock cup washer so that part is easy. Now this leads to three things. First, everyone go search the interweb and see if YOU can find a supplier of cup washers. Second, Caption Obvious, machine me up a die to press flat 1” washers into lovely 7/8” cup washers! Simple. Third: You hoarders with a thousand of these already, contact me. I need a dozen.....
  10. This past week, lots of sanding was been done… my favorite hobby... NOT!! Giving me trouble with my shoulder.. eating pain pills for breakfast.. But somebody has to do it. Paint was already ordered and now we are discussing who is painter haha.. me or "them"? I sprayed over a 100 cans and used a prof. paintergun a few times.. I think.. if i can do the inside doors and hood in a perfect way i'm the painter of my own car!! (It can't be THAT hard...? the only thing you have to look after is putting paint everywhere and at the same thickness.. HAHAHA...) some pic's of the progress.. Doors.. Rear hatch.. Hood.. Difference in sanded and not sanded.. clearly to see.. Here a pic of the workshop.. all kinds of zx stuff. Front of the car is done and the roof also.. I think paint this month.. at least the colorcoat in the edges (post of the doors and hood etc.) and inner side.
  11. It's been a long time since I updated this, but I have been working on it between actual paid work, moving house, travelling, buying another Z (Z32 Twin Turbo) etc. Anyway, drivetrain is back in! Yes, I wish it was a more complete rebuild - but as I said in a previous post - I do want to actually get this on the road this year, and I'm building a second motor on the side. For now, we have a new clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, cleaned up transmission. Motor has new front and rear main seals, timing set, water pump, oil pump, valve cover gasket, alternator and belt, oil and fuel filters, etc.. Also got the ceramic coated 6-1 headers installed. Waiting on my MSA mandrel bent system and Zstory JDM muffler. I do have a Pallnet fuel rail, but decided to install the stock one for now until I get things up and running. Wiring still a bit of a mess, but getting closer.
  12. Excellent. Glad to help. I did a quick web search on the process and quickly came up with the following. This should help you get it right with fewer iterations: http://thelibraryofmanufacturing.com/deep_drawing.html Lots of good pictures and helpful rules of thumb. I should have looked first!
  13. Haha! Ok, I think I have enough "stuff" laying around the shop that I can at least mock something up quickly and show you what I'm thinking of. And as for the heat treating, it's not quite like that. First - Make sure you know what type of steel you're working with. Not all steels have a composition that will react favorably to a heat treatment process, and even the ones that do, will have a different process depending on the composition. For example, above, you referenced an oil quench... Well that works great for "oil hardening steels", but not so good for "air hardening" or "water hardening". The three most common ubiquitous categories available everywhere are Oil, Water, and Air hardening varieties. I've got a bunch of "O1" (Oil hardening) laying around here and that's what I would use, but it's probably not the best choice for a die like that either. Would be OK, but not great. However, you've got no idea what you've got laying around, so I would just skip the heat treat process completely unless you're sure what you're working with or just want to experiment and see what happens. Second - The temperature you described above is not high enough. Needs to be full cherry red. One simple way to determine if you're hot enough is to use a magnet. The steel will actually lose it's magnetic characteristic when it's hot enough. It will be glowing red and it won't be magnetic. Then quench (using the appropriate method). Third - If the heat treat was successful, the part will be hard. Like real hard. Glass hard. File skates across the surface hard. Problem now is that the part is TOO hard. Too brittle. So you need to "temper" the part to draw back the hardness some. For that you re-heat the part but not as hot. "Straw color" is a term thrown around a lot. Heat the part "to straw color" and then let it cool slowly. After that, the part won't be hard brittle anymore and won't shatter like glass when you put in the press to make your washers. And don't forget that all the while, the glowing part has been oxidizing on the surface and by the time you grind the scale off, what's left is now the wrong size....... So you add to your long bucket list of projects, an argon purged heat treat furnace......... I would skip the heat treat and just make a new set of dies when the first one wears out.
  14. Sure, but I’d like you to show me how, not so much do it for me. I really need to stop getting distracted with fun little projects like this and get the next 510 in the shop and finish it’s resurrection. Heat treating. Heat until yellow, then plunge in oil right? Then call 911. I’ve been watching those knife maker shows....
  15. WELL I finally got a chance to take the “new” (to me) fancy hybrid extra yummy tranny out for a drive tonight. The roads are clear here, temp is +5C, beautiful night for a cruise. I have to get this thing out of the shop tomorrow anyway to get the next project car in there, and we have a good cold snow dump coming this weekend, so now or never. I am happy to report the trans works very well. MUCH quieter over all than the old rattle box (better be with new bearings and such). All gears change easy, new synchros are doing their thing just fine. Up and down all gears. That fancy 62mm front bearing in my gingerly machined out bore seems happy, but only time will tell about how well the counter shaft bearings stand up to the abuse I will be giving it over the next few years. Even the reverse light is happily coming on with my modified shift rod with the 4 speed bell housing. Remember this is the one with mixture of a 720 truck ratio’s stirred with a 4 gear set from a close Ratio ZX 5 sp. The idea was that it gave a 0.65 ish 5th while retaining reasonable 1-4 The lower four gears are essentially identical to what i remember “feel” wise. 1st is maybe a tad taller, the 2-3 gap feels just a tad wider, but that 5th. OMG I love it. 2200 RPM at 100 KPH. The mighty 2.4 LZ has no trouble moving it right along. Going to make an excellent highway cruiser for this years planned trips. Feeling good. Now there’s a chance all my other one’s that are now re-built will also move a car down the road with little drama.
  16. The parts look like 280Z parts if you compare to Rockauto pictures. If moozieman is 100% sure that it's the distributor then there's only one thing to do. Remove the distributor and check it out. The overall description doesn't really make sense anyway. Why would the rotor grinding on the cap cause the engine to die? The engine would happily just grind that cap and rotor in to dust.
  17. When all you have is a three jaw puller, the whole mother of invention thing kicks right in. I'd be proud to have built that.
  18. siteunseen

    New guy

    Don't try to crank it yet with that 10 year old gas. Drain that crap then put a filter straight out of the tank. This is a 280's but you'll get the idea. For my 240 a Fram G2 works best. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm Oh yeah, welcome to the forum. A lot of information here plus some laughs, mostly tongue in cheek stuff though. I/we kid around a lot. Post some pics of that 260! We enjoy looking at other peoples stuff.
  19. Bravo on the install video. 😉 Great Job! Just a follow up regarding this particular 123ignition distributor. Upon receipt of the unit, I installed it in my 1969 MGC where it has been working flawlessly since. New price on rotor after review. Plus free shipping in Continental USA. Thanks for the support from the Classiczcars. Hope this helps Ed
  20. Yes, install dizzy=use timing light. No question. Although a year old thread, I do want to chime in here. Since about the time this thread began, I have been running the (Bluetooth) 123ignition /Tune+ On a 260Z block / heads with twin SUs and SM needles. I also run a hotter coil (oil damped) Bosch Red is also ok. And I’ve bypassed my ballast resistor and rotor resistor myself. Why have extra resistance in your circuits, unless you still use AM radio? Heh, heh. No problems with the engine / timing in over a year of spirited driving. I love to tune it as I choose each day, depending on how I plan to be driving. I have several Curves, like 10 including the ‘Default.123’. I use an ipad and also my iphone. You can tune ‘one the fly’ (just +/- advance, you can’t change or save the curve-yet...). SO City it’s start & stop, so use a good idle maybe 10-12d BTDC at 750rpm -not my default map which as lower idle advance. Cruising the freeway or touring (I want better milage), twisty mountain canyons (lots of advance at high rpm). It’s cool to have variable Timing / vacuum advance curves, without playing with advance weights, or adjusting the position of the dizzy manually to change static advance. Some comments: The setup procedure with the LED light is only good for getting the engine running with the new dizzy. Then run the 123ign centrifugal map with 0 degrees up to 1500rpm in the app and set the engine (with the timing light) to match. I read somewhere that using the LED procedure can actually set 5d TDC static to ‘get the engine started’ easily. I didn’t see this myself, but it brings up the next point. Personally I wouldn’t run the default map and LED timing except to test, and certainly not on the road and under load. Do NOT set up static timing, it screws everything up, and you would have to ADD that to all the values 123ign “sees” in real time and when you add vacuum retard “maps” (which *will* kick in at 1500rpm by default) it gets way too confusing. That is IF you run a vacuum advance line / dizzy (I do)- most with triple DCOEs won’t (or can’t as there isn’t a common plenum). You confuse the123ign and more importantly yourself as to the advance you are running. I did write to Ed Madak, before install and he was very helpful The instructions are incomplete and they expect you have some knowledge. He said: “Hi Richard Setting the app to 0 and the number one cylinder to TDC is preferred as it will show exactly what you have set your timing to. Always confirm using a timing light and synchronize the app with the motor. Hope this helps“ It did help. So you don’t think I’m a fanboy, here are some issues I have experienced and tried to solve: 1. The install instructions are terrible. Read the above and take note, hard lessons learned, you must confirm you have TDC marked correctly on your harmonic balancer. Then use a good timing light, one with dialback if you can. I even made an ‘newbie’s guide’ (ymmv) of my 123ign install & posted it on YouTube: 2. These engines love advance, but personally I don’t exceed 35d advance even at 8000rpm (it’s never driven as a race-car). I also usually RPM limit at 7500, 123ign does random spark cut to keep to that limit. My tach is very accurate and the function works as advertised. I have a ‘hotter cam grind’ and don’t want to bend valves or blow a head gasket. 2. Problems I have had are mostly with the app: i) Sometimes it doesn’t load any curve, and seems to run whatever you save as Default.123 - so make that a gentle map with good idle but one where you will notice a big difference under acceleration (and can’t trash your engine). Butt dyno to the rescue. ii) The ‘map curve’ which does ignition adv/retard from vacuum is difficult to understand at first, I wish it had an option to change it to Hg (mercury), rather than Abs pressure (kP) which the dizzy uses. Yes, you can look up conversion. My default is very gentle, but I have more aggressive maps to run: Default MAP No. Abs Pressure (kP). Degrees Crank 1 0 0 2 29 0 3 30 5 4 45 7 5 85 0 6 100 0 7 200 0 Note: If the Map you’re reading is shown in Degrees camshaft, you need to convert to crank by using a x2 factor. That’s buried in the crap instructions. Crank rotates twice for every single cam rotation. Look at the gear sizes on the timing chain! So you multiply cam x2 to get crank degrees. ii) You can ‘immobilize’ your car in the app, which is a feature I like (I used to run a manual kill switch). It used to work correctly, but now when I go back to settings after disconnecting, the app looks like it’s ready to go. But it isn’t, the engine will die right away. You have to enable, then disable the function. On my New iphone anyway. Not ideal. Iii) The GPS speedo is rubbish compared to other iPhone GPS apps and Speedos on the market. Sometimes it says I’m doing 153 mph (yeah, right) sometimes 25mph and I’m doing a steady 65mph on the freeway. Mostly. But it’s okay as a check, my analog speedo isn’t accurate at some speeds (very low and above 60mph). So it can help ‘fill in the gaps’. iv) As discussed, the cap and rotor aren’t great, and way too expensive. Replace the cap and rotor with a Bosch one. The ‘71 280SL Mercedes and the ‘65 Porsche 911 2.0L base used the same cap, but that’s from memory. Buy products made in Europe, so Germany or Italy. Go to a Porsche site or Imports parts supply. Dizzy cap for 123ignition 123 Tune+ Bosch 1 235 522 060 or Beru VK102 Part Number for the rotor is:
 Bosch 1 234 332 024 or 1234 332 088 which supersedes the 024 WVE 4R1209 For example, a good quality rotor (Italian made) is also available here for $25 shipped: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333529359496 I bought a Bosch cap NOS (in original box) on eBay for around $16, in fact I got two- and was happy. If I wasn’t (cracked or used) I would have sent it back for a refund under eBay/PayPal policy. Finally, the rotor should not come with a resistor, I’ve modified mine by soldering in a piece of ‘house wiring’ gauge copper wire No problems at all, but you may need to file the top of the wire flatter to have good clearance. Good practice would be to encase the copper wire run in epoxy, so you don’t get unwanted spark jumps. Especially if you run MSD 6AL and a hotter coil. v) No data logging. A huge disappointment, or has to track the data, why not be able to save a ‘pull’ to look back at what the dizzy (and the car) did. Fix this! That’s it. My experience has been quite good. These are machines. Cars and engines go wrong. You all know that. There’s probably more I could say, but I hadn’t intended to write a book when I started. If you’re reading this far, you have the benefit of what I’ve discovered. I like the 123i Tune+ dizzy and plan to use another one soon- maybe just the USB one as it could have a single standard tune. This is on a built stroker 3.xL with triple webber DCOEs, hot cam, etc. I’m not scared that if set up correctly, it won’t detonate your engine. It should default to a map that ‘still makes sense’ if it goes out. BTW the holes 4&5 on the L6 are more prone to failure than the others. Don’t ask me how I know...
  21. I thought it was a heat shield.
  22. Put your finger on the top of the shaft and see how much play there is. Wiggle it and see if it moves far enough to touch anything. Or just take the distributor out and see if there are any obvious problems. While it's out see if the drive quill (down in the hole) has problems. Your problem doesn't sound complicated but you're going have to go farther to solve it. It's an uncommon issue, nobody out here will have the easy fix. Time to take things apart. Removing the distributor is super easy. One screw, and disconnect the red and green wires, and it pulls right out. It only goes in one way, so you can't really mess things up. That distributor is so rusty inside that it's almost guaranteed that your vacuum advance doesn't work anyway.
  23. Looks like sway bar end link parts to me...
  24. So this thread is titled "tips and tricks" so here is one tip and trick. This is related to using the bearing splitter and puller. I use the puller with long extensions to get the rear main shaft extension housing bearing off, then to pull the very snug bearing sleeve under the 5th gear needle bearing. It requires 16" extensions for one and 18" for the other. Being inherently lazy, and efficiency driven, the ordeal of spinning those 3/8 nuts back and forth on the long rods, or changing from 16 to 18 in rods and having two sets of nuts and washers, I find just too tedious and time consuming. What to do, what to do.... Let's see... Surely there is a nifty "something" out there that allows you release a threaded nut and slide up and down, then quickly re-connect it with the threads. Didn't take much googling to find the concept of a "slip on nut" to be a real thing. Here is the first thing I found. Two interlocked nuts that rotate to expose an opening, then rotate to lock back on the threads. Found it on Fastenal's website, and low and behold, they actually had some at the store near me. I zoom over, and yes, she pulls out four of them in a baggy, goes to the computer and says "That will $60 bucks please"! I let out the loudest laugh i have ever produced. She looked at me with very worried and surprised eyes, wondering what I'd say or do next. She managed to say with a straight face, "well, we do have minimum charges....". I apologized for possibly offensive behavior, thanked her for her time, declined the purchase and left.. Home I went to the internet. Found them on McMasterCarr for $5.75 each. BTW these are 3/8-16 thread. (PN 90125A031) Even better, I also found on McMasterCarr a much slicker sliding nut system, the "Push Button Slide Adjust Nut (PN 98150A360) for a mere $10.83 each. Of course I bought both items to compare. I had other important things to buy from them as well, so I justified it easily. Like a bag of 25 orings that fit the speedo cog body and striker rod for $8 bucks (9262k892)rather than the $8 each that Nissan charges you. Same for snap rings (97633A290), and various individual ball bearings that match the ones you always lose when you take the trans apart)..... They are surprisingly all perfect SAE sizes. 0.25 (shifter rod detents), 3/32, etc. (Yes, it all was more than $60 Canadian, I knew you'd ask....) Anyway, the push button slider nuts are the best thing out there. Push, slide, release, thread to lock. The nut OD is quite large (over an inch for a 3/8 nut), but for this usage its perfect, as the base is flanged and fit the fingers on the puller head without additional washers. The two piece slip on nuts work too, but are finicky. BTW the trick to getting McMaster Carr to sell to Canadians is to register your account with a business name. Don't have to provide proof, just have a name in the box when you fill out their on-line form. I use my zKars handle. Occasionally the courier driver will ask my name on delivery, I will blurt out my actual name and he will say "but the name on the waybill is ZKars". I show him a business card I had made up, he's happy.
  25. Whilst poking around inside my 4/70 HLS30UV project car the other day, I noted that the passenger floor tar mat was manufactured in a shape which accommodates the possibility of fitting an OEM passenger footrest:
  26. Battery Bling! Finally got around to installing new battery terminals that have sat around about 4 months. I like the way they look and will be great for the eye candy part of car shows but the functionality will require more effort. Instead of just a 1/2" (13mm) wrench, I'll have to add a full set of Hex keys and a 9/16" to the tool carry kit. The plastic covers look good too but there's Nooo Waay that I will ever let an Autozone guy replace the battery without me removing them first.
  27. Beautiful car, extremely well done. Congrats - now, drive the damn thing and get some long past due enjoyment out of it.
  28. Hi all, I've just received my 1973 240z! The previous owner towed it out from MO for me along with piles and piles of parts. We went over it together and it's in better shape than I expected (it was a Craigslist transaction over the phone between MO and NJ). I'm sure that I'll start finding nasty surprises once I start into it, but for now I'm basking in the glory of having a Z in my garage.
  29. Klassic Fab has been manufacturing quality VW Bus floor replacements for years and has recently started manufacturing floor pans and frame rails, etc for 240Zs and for other vintage Japanese cars. Here's their website: https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Pictures courtesy of The 240z Guild.
  30. Dave WM

    New guy

    One last thing to consider, and I consider this an item that ALL L series engine owners should consider. Look a the timing chain guide on the tight side (thermostat side) next time you have the valve cover off. if you see grooves worn into it from the chain, do yourself a favor and replace the chain guide (as a minimum, check the chain for wear and replace that too if needed) but really just replace that guide. On my long trip, the guide must have been worn enough to allow the chain to rip into the metal part and tore if off completely. I got lucky, the guide fell harmlessly down inside the timing chain cover, but I consider that just luck. Its not too difficult a job to do, can be done with the engine in the car (remove the rad for access, relocate the compressor if needed but keep it connected of course to not vent Freon). replace both guides and tensioner would be best practice, and the front seal of course. I would look at this with any engine with 100k or more miles. Its a few hours if you are only replacing guides and seals, don't even need to remove the chain if its not worn.
  31. Yes! Yes!! That's the one! Thanks! I was pretty sure it was you or convertt, but finer details continue to slip. They say it won't get any better... So I guess now that you've already answered the process question, that half an hour I spent in the shop this morning doesn't add much more to the discussion. But for the record... For the female portion, I used an old bearing race because its what I had laying here, and it's hardened. For the male portion, I used a previously machined drop of 12L14 steel because it was already machined to close to the size I wanted. For a real product, 12L14 is definitely NOT what you would want to use as pretty much it's only claim to fame is it's ease of machinability. Doesn't heat treat, doesn't weld well, isn't particularly strong, but boy it sure does machine nice. Anyway, hardened race with .625 inch ID. 12L14 male mandrel with .555 inch diameter, and .032 thick steel sheet. It took two tries to get the mandrel diameter correct, and I suspect this is where all the skill and experience comes in. You need the correct clearance between the mandrel and the die for the thickness material you're working with. Not enough clearance and it acts like a hole punch. That's what my first try did. So I took ten thousandths off the mandrel and things got a lot better. And by the way, this forming process is known as "drawing". I assume there's oodles of info on the web if you want to research. On the hydraulic press. My 2 ton arbor press wasn't enough and I didn't want to rip a shoulder out of the socket: Here's the result. Note the tear through on the first attempt and the better draw on the second (lower) form: Trim the excess material off and put a hole in the middle just for show:
  32. Can you highlight where in the pics it shows the grinding? I can't see it. Also a sound recording might be good. One man's grinding is another man's whirring!
  33. I'm refurbishing my tank in a 1974 early 260Z. I took some pictures to be sure it goes back together correctly.......and have one that should help. Your hose in question goes under the frame and back up into a bendable clip. Hope this helps!
  34. Here's the rings I used: Checking ring gaps: My ring gaps (like @Av8ferg) came out within spec so I did not need to do any gap grinding. Top ring gap - Spec is .009 - .015 and I get .014 on mine. (Note that I measured .020 to .024 with old worn top rings) Middle ring gap - Spec is .006 - .011 and I get .009 with mine. (Note that I measured .014 to .015 with old worn middle rings) Oil scraper rings - Spec is .012 - .035 and I get .014 with mine. I did not measure old oil rings.
  35. It's finally time to move the jig ... lets see if the dolly plan worked .... custom lifting tool .... ...caster bolted up ... repeat ... easy peasy ....
  36. Do you have a set of plans or are just going to wing it?
  37. And although nobody asked (rarely stops me), here's some additional info about those sensors. The original sensors are actually two pieces. A steel threaded portion and a brass sensor portion. The steel part uses a straight thread and the reason they can get away with a straight thread (not tapered) is because that's not what holds back the coolant liquid. The liquid sealing surface actually has nothing to do with the threads. The liquid is sealed by the small beveled edge further down the sensor. Taking liberties with Granny's photo: Some of the newer aftermarket sensors are all one piece brass like the below. Note that the O-ring does not hold back the coolant. All it does is keeps dirt and junk out of the threads. The same beveled surface is what keeps the coolant in:
  38. Sorry Kats I just noticed this comment and I apologize for not being clear. As I mentioned before I purchased an after market version of the foot rest a number of years ago thinking my wife would appreciate it. As you can see from the photos it mounts differently than the original. I was particularly interested in your carpet. Appears the solution is to have a carpet mat made. also I am interested in knowing how you reproduced the ribbed rubber cover.
  39. Welcome to the spindle pin club. These people who build spindle pin pullers and think that's the answer... Now you know the truth.
  40. Sure. So with the front rail and the rad support out, I could push/pull the horn side to side a few mm by hand easily (except for the strut support holding it it place). If it was out of alignment, I could easily be re-aligned. The legs of the jig are bolted to the car, and to the long longitudinal rails. So the jig gets assembled / dissambled under the car while the car is on jacks. The floor is epoxy installed by the previous owner. It is slowly being destroyed by all the metal work ....
  41. - no. I did the floors years ago, and then the car just sat for a couple of years.... The jig was built to factory dimensions, not to this car. I posted about the build in my other thread “240z gets jiggy”. (Can you link to another thread here? Not sure how to do it). Anyways, the jig supports the car at all the factory drivetrain and suspension points and under the floor rails. If the car is out of alignment you can pull it pack in for sure. The front is partially supported by the strut tower. It would be almost entirely if I had cut out both rails at the same time. The next support point is the transmission mount. its very rigid. Car did not budge when I cut the rail.
  42. Yet another consideration is a mig liner. They're available in many diameters. Last time I bought one it was about $1.00 per foot.
  43. I was stuffing around with a few Z clocks and found there were mostly two types. The one described above, and the one in my 260Z (a Kanto Seiki). The one I had was driven by a small electric circuit rather than a motor. I couldn't find any schematics so I got the oscilloscope out and traced it out. Of the three I got working again, one had failed capacitors, one had a failed transistor, and one had both the transistor and capacitor failed. I changed these to equivalents and presto. This was six months ago and they are still going... I think I will look at a way of putting the circuit, waveforms, diagrams (equivalent transistors will have different pin arrangements), and photos into one document and posting it. It should make a nice little article. Stay tuned.