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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2022 in all areas

  1. Today A bright gallon Here is the yellow basecoat I think that was 3 coats of base. There were some areas that had a little gray show through and they were super hard to get covered with the yellow. It's just so transparent! 3 coats of clear. Overall, not too bad but one of my cans of clear had a little rust on it and it ended up in the mixing cup. the paint screens didn't get it all. So there are a few brown specs in the clear. I will have to cut them out. Hopefully I won't have to reclear. It's progress though. My booth didn't totally work the way I wanted. My intake fan filter ended up clogging with exhaust paint overspray coming back in another door of the shop. At the end the booth was pretty foggy! Don't light a match!! I probably should have worn my Tyveck suit but it was already hot in the booth... Colour!!!!
    13 points
  2. Wrapping up the interior. I’m pretty happy with the outcome. It’s not perfect but it has come a long way. I wish I had great pics of the interior to show the before and after. The bottom line my car had no interior and no seats when I bought it. Everything is new or something I either bought or salvaged. The only interior pieces that I had were the plastic panels that go around the rear quarter windows. The headliner was also in good shape and required no work. There was no vinyl on the shock towers or wheel wells. I salvaged mine off a junked Z in a salvage yard. You can see in the before pics the interior was just bare metal. Still haven’t figured on the center console arm rest mechanism. I have all the parts (springs and wires ) just haven’t figured out how is works yet. I also need new sun visors, or to have mine refurbished.
    8 points
  3. 1982 Datsun 720 4x4. Just finished painting it. Fun to drive
    7 points
  4. My tranny crossmember bushings were shot, so I pressed them out and read tons of posts on the OEM bushings being NLA. I have a couple of different x members from various years, so I figured I could get something to work. I chose to keep my original x member and make a set of poly bushings work. I ordered the black energy suspension bushings from one of the vendors. They are too big and too long for my style x member. I took them over to my brothers house and we put them on a lathe and turned them down to the right diameter and then shortened to metal sleeve and bushings to fit....Tight as a tick! One problem solved.....ten thousand more to go.
    7 points
  5. You hurt my feelings😒 I love my silver 240 with red interior
    6 points
  6. July the 17 I mixed the oil and grease around, burnt the dust of the brakes. I'm scared to go dowm there now. My 4 foot black snake that eats all the chipmunks that store acorns on top of the 280's intake among the other various places has grown to 6 feet now. No more chipmunks but now I have a huge arse snake living in my garage. It's non poisonous by the shape of the head. I know the shape because he leaves me full body skins about twice a year as a way of letting me know he's the boss. I hate snakes. My dog acts weird too from smelling it but I won't kill it unless I have to, you know like maybe a girl sees it and won't come back until it's gone. Here's one from a week or so ago I found in my bycycle. Windshield to headlight, 5' 8 inches.
    6 points
  7. I've been prompted to start a new thread on this subject after reading - for what seems like the thousandth time - somebody describing the OEM steering wheel on a late 1970 production HLS30UV as "Plastic". No. The OEM steering wheel on the '1969 through 1973 production S30-series Z was WOOD. Real wood. They were manufactured for Nissan by specialist Izumi Motor Co. Ltd, based in Shinagawa, Tokyo. Izumi made a wide range of steering wheels for Nissan, as well as selling their own aftermarket 'sports' stering wheels with a cheeky 'Izumi' engraved script which aped Nardi, one of their inspirations. Izumi used a patented high-pressure heat moulding process. Real wood fibres, impregnated with resin, were laid - following the grain - in a heated mould around the steel hoop of the steering wheel. High pressure, combined with that heat, moulded the wood permanently around the hoop and cured the resin. The result was a wood steering wheel, complete with finger grips on the rear, with no joints or seams. No splinters. My theory is that people found them a little 'plasticky' or just couldn't believe they were real wood, and it stuck. After 50+ years it is hard to shake this off, hence me reading a comment on yet another Bring-a-Trailer auction from somebody who is convinced they are plastic. Evidence: I've cut one up. I'm making a 'special' wheel using this 1970 production Izumi as a base (it was already damaged, so don't weep...) and can therefore show what's under the surface. I'll let the photos speak for themselves...
    5 points
  8. So, my latest learning from doing the bodywork on this car... This is a pretty important lesson to learn with regard to filler work. Here is how my passenger door looked in bare metal: The door wasn't sand blasted. Don't do that, by the way, of course. The paint was stripped off with a 36 grit disc on an air sander. Followed by 80 grit on a DA. Next pic shows body filler which was applied on top of epoxy primer. An obvious issue is that I have over sanded the filler and broken through the epoxy primer to bare metal. The instant you break through to bare metal, unless it is a high spot which will be pretty obvious, stop sanding. But, what I really want to point out is with a large panel, such as this passenger door, you can't assume it is flat enough to just skim coat with filler, sand, and spray a couple of high build primer coats on it and call it done. Note the bottom half of the door and that oval spot of body filler: After more filler applied and more sanding... note the oval spot is still there: In this pic, I have applied high build primer filler... and note the oval spot on the lower half of the door... this time with white body filler added. Are you starting to get a sense of the repetition here? right Almost a year ago, the bodywork on this door still wasn't right. So, here is what I have learned. Don't over sand. Other than possibly being a good workout, it wastes time and materials. Critically, for large panels, use a straight edge, or look at the reflection with a coat of wax and silicone remover on the panel, and check for any concaveness across the span of the door. It is exceedingly difficult to address the panel being ever so slightly concave after you have sprayed primer filler. You need to check it while it is bare metal, and again while it is in body filler stage. Get the panel flat while in the body filler stage. Do not move on to primer filler until the panel is flat. Use guide coat, and wax and silicone remover and check progress. Primer filler is not going to fill a concave panel. That is another thing I was doing that was wrong. A picture from today - note the white filler in the same location as the oval low spot in the pics above, and which can be seen in the video above also: I have learned a lot, but have done it the hard way. And it has cost hundreds of hours and hundreds of dollars in materials. The reflection looked really good prior to application of primer filler today, so I think this door is super close to done, at long last. While waiting for filler to dry, I also assembled my brake calipers today. The original hardware was re-plated, insides of pistons sand blasted zinc primed and painted, caliper halves sand blasted, zinc primed and painted with Eastwood cast iron look paint:
    5 points
  9. You are the Duke of hazards.
    5 points
  10. Slow progress. Waiting on the body shop to get room to take in my car. I sent off a bunch of stuff to get plated and just got the stuff back. I thought they did a very nice job considering how rough the stuff was. I wet blasted and wire wheeled every nut bolt and washer. I think it was 43 lbs shipping! Engine rebuild should be able to get finished now that I have all the bolts and suspension should be back from powder coating any day. Marquis Zinc Plus in Dundalk MD. Talk to Tabitha, she kept everything sorted for me!
    5 points
  11. Last night I tried popping my hood open, with no luck. I figured I'd have to get it up in the air today and try prying the latch as mentioned in many other threads. But, somehow it did open, luckily. So while removing and cleaning the hood latch, checking the cable, I decided to add an emergency cable, just in case the original fails. First I bought a $2 hook and wire leader from Walmart, 60 lb test, about 34" long, and removed hook and beads. . Drilled an 1/8" hole in the top of the swiveling cable end connector, on the firewall side so it won't bind up with real cable. Fed the small cable loop up through the hole, then big loop through small loop. Attached factory cable and reinstalled latch. Fed new cable to throttle linkage bracket, down the inside of bracket, around brake lines so it wouldn't wedge into something, over to speedometer hole, and inside. Used small binder clip to clamp end of cable to clutch/brake pedal frame. Looks like I'm missing the speedo hole grommet. Anyway, it works great. Hopefully I'll never have to use it, but it's there if the occasion arises.
    5 points
  12. 69F this morning so I uncovered the 240Z. Two hours driving around here, ran perfect. It had 72,xxx when I bought it in 2015 now it has 78,855.
    5 points
  13. I briefly owned a JDM 2.0L 70 Fairlady in college (around '95) that I traded a Marine a motorcycle for. I really loved it, but it ended up being beyond my abilities in terms of rust and foolishly let it go to the scrapyard - triple carbs, magnesium wheels, and everything. I've lost many nights' sleep over that tragedy since then - particularly since I ended up in a restoration career - so when I decided to call it quits with other folks' cars, I bought myself the most rust-free '72 Z I could find - to make amends for my past sins, I suppose. 🙂 I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum - I'm already learning tons of history and historical details, going very much down the rabbit hole, and will have MANY questions about my 240 as I touch up and renew some things that age has gotten the better of. So, thanks in advance! I'll grab some photos of it tomorrow at the shop for posterity and to start this off properly. Stay tuned.
    4 points
  14. The 'hoop' on my 4/70 steering wheel - as seen in the photos on the first post of this thread - is mild steel bar and measures at 7mm. 6.3mm seems a strange - non-standard - size? I would imagine it being far more likely that they would use a readily available standard size, no? I don't know where this talk about wood "powder" and even "sawdust" comes from. There is an easily-observed grain and structure to the wood material used. That grain follows the shape of the wheel circumferentially. There are no readily-seen end joins. In a way it is rather like wool, where short strands of carded wool are spun together to make a continuous thread. The wood fibre used here seems to have been processed in something of that nature. Yes, it is not a traditional wood-rim wheel in the way that your custom-made version is (we have already covered that) but it IS wood.
    4 points
  15. The Chinese are a threat to the world in many ways. They are the leader in CO2 emissions, are an authoritarian government that keeps its foot on the neck of its people, steals intellectual property, undermines civil liberties and uses it power and influence to strong arm companies and governments. The least of our problems are the crappy stuff they make but I agree. Not sure why we (western democracies) do business with them. The only reason I can guess is that we value money more that our western values. It’s like feeding the neighbors dog steaks over the fence, when everyday it threatens to chew your face off. We deserve what we are getting !
    4 points
  16. There are probably five major seals that would be best suited to Nissan OE if available: windshield, L/R doors, hatch glass, hatch inner. The principle suppliers of repro seals are Precision Replacment Products (PRP) and Vintage Rubber. The MSA kit is likely composed of PRP items. I heard some brief mentions some time ago the VR was actually using some pieces from PRP but I cannot confirm the accuracy of that. PRP door and hatch inner seals have long had a reputation for being fat leading to difficulty closing the doors and hatch. Most of the PRP seals for other areas can be used with good results. Don't overlook Banzai Motorworks and 240ZRubberParts for alternate sources of high quality repro items. Just my $0.05 worth - if that much! 😉 I'm sure others on this forum can chime in with experiences with both PRP and VR items. https://www.prp.com/ https://vintagerubber.com/ http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ https://www.240zrubberparts.com/
    4 points
  17. And can I just point out that when I said "I'm thinking that something within the carb itself is keeping that front throttle butterfly from closing completely"... I nailed it! HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
    4 points
  18. Installed my new replica tail lights. looked at guidelines from the web, all suggested to cut a wire under the steering column to separate the brake light from the blinker. Couldent understand why you would have to do that? Theres a connection at the brake light switch, used that and used the new harness from the replica tail lights and everything workes. Ofcourse the oem tail light 4 pin connection doesn’t match the 6 pin connection from the replica tail lights, you have to swap these so they match.
    4 points
  19. That could've been the T boner?
    4 points
  20. So I think I may have it sorted out. Don't want to speak too soon though... I installed an extra fuel filter inline next to the tank. I also installed a new primary fuel filter and the new fuel sender unit, o-ring and lock ring. I had to re-solder one of the connectors and use the heat gun on the rubber boots to get them soft enough to push over the terminals. I also blew out all the fuel lines with my air compressor turned down to 40-50 psi or so. Started the car after a bit of cranking to fill the filters, and it seemed to run...OK. Still missing and hunting somewhat, but I got it into a state where I could drive it around the neighborhood. After some more tinkering, it was alright, but then it died again the way it did last week. I coasted into the driveway and pulled the top off the rear carb fuel bowl: Dry as a bone. 😡 Really frustrating, but then I noticed that I forgot to put a hose clamp on the fuel pump inlet line. Also, it was kind of loose. I wonder if the fuel pump had been sucking air, creating a kind of vapor lock condition in the fuel lines? Regardless, I put a clamp on it, and the car seemed to run a lot better. I was able to drive it down the road a little ways and it didn't threaten to die at any time. I didn't want to get greedy so I came home and decided to wash it. It's the first bath it's had in almost 20 years. The paint cleaned up really well and looks fantastic; the painters did a great job with it. There are a couple of tiny water leaks but nothing major. I don't plan to drive it in the rain anyway. Current engine bay status: Yes, that's blue painter's tape protecting the left shock tower from getting scratched by the air filter wingnut.
    3 points
  21. So we worked on the motor some more today. We started by checking end play float. We could force 2 thousandths of play be we really had more like 1-1 1/2. So we pulled the crank back out and we checked the thrust bearing thicknesses. I logged all of those down. Then we did some calculating and decided we wanted to add 1 1/2 thousands. So we removed half of that from each side of the bearing plus a little. Tom Monroe calls for using 320 grit paper but I used 600 wet. 320 seemed way too course. You need to be able to keep track of which side is which. I made a sharpie mark on one side and the oil hole gives a reference point to work from. Each pad is treated as a measured location. We set the shells against each other and wrapped with a couple of turns of electrical tape. We used the granite counter as a flattening plate but a piece of glass would work good too. I made circular motions when sanding and counted revolutions. I did 10 to the side and then mic'd. Then 10 more. It took about 30 to the side to take off 0.00075". After we reassembled we had 2 thousands that would indicate with no pressure applied. We could force it up near 3 thousands. While we had the crank out we heated the timing gear in the oven and installed it on the crank. Then we put rings on the pistons and installed them. The pistons are 7 thousands proud at TDC. Off my rough calculations we will be about 10.35:1 compression. So we may have to keep the timing down until we upgrade the head and cam. Now we need to get the timing cover cleaned and then work on the rest of it. I couldn't really turn the crank by hand before without the pistons, just the crank. I can now turn the whole assembly, pistons and all by hand. It's tough but doable
    3 points
  22. HAHA! It is. My brother put that on. Shouldn't ever trust an attorney. Thanks for the heads up, I guess I would have noticed eventually.
    3 points
  23. Yep. That's the kinky part of engine porn.
    3 points
  24. It was $50 Aussie for 5kg, it was just in a polystyrene cooler, and I used my welding gloves to handle it. 5kg was just enough to do all the flat surfaces
    3 points
  25. Your calipers look great. I see that the M10's that you are inquiring about a torque spec have a 10T marking on the heads. The Datsun (Nissan) general torque spec book shows tensile strengths and torques for 4T, 7T and 9T bolts. It would likely be safe to assume that a 10T bolt would be 11% (= 142,000 psi) stronger than a 9T and likely could be torqued 11% (= 31 - 42 ft-lb) higher than the 9T spec as well. Extrapolated values are for M10 x 1.25. General-Datsun Torque Specifications.pdf
    3 points
  26. This week I removed the sound deadening/tar mat from the car as preparation for blasting. To be honest I was really dreading this job but in the end it was actually not that bad! I ordered 5kg of dry ice for the occasion. This worked an absolute charm for the boot area. Leave the ice on the matting for a couple of minutes and you can start to hear it cracking. Then use a scraper and it comes off in big slabs. the transmission tunnel area is much more difficult, dry ice can be used on the top flat surfaces but doesn’t work on the sides, I tried hanging plastic bags with dry ice in them but it just doesn’t get as cold… for the sides of the transmission tunnel a heat gun and scraper worked great for me, trick was to get it hot enough to lift off the metal but not so hot that it melts completely. and end results… still finishing up the bracing, only managed to add a cross brace for the rear of the car as I’m going to remove the entire rear valance.
    3 points
  27. Please don't read this wrong. It is your car and you can do whatever you want to make yourself happy. IMO, that is a very nice, solid, unmolested example. Even with a "modified" driveline the car will not be very fast compared with a modern car. Why not go through the car and keep it all original? I have done the L28 with e31 head , turbos, and other variations in the past. Sure, it was fun, but I didnt really find them to be that much more fun than a stock 240. I just have an appreciation of the survivors, I guess because I am becoming one myself!
    3 points
  28. HLS30-41924, build date 8/71. This Z has been a race car since 1989, I bought it in 1989. Originally red, the car had been painted many times. I stripped it to the bare shell, bare metal, removed the bolt in roll bar and built a full cage. Refinished in 1985 Corvette red, and Mercedes grey. It has done well, running ICSCC and SCCA meets in the Pacific Northwet, and Thunderhill twice. I was Conference Production E champion in 1997. The car is currently awaiting a fresh engine.
    3 points
  29. Hi Alan, I show this before you do . From a サービス周報(Service bulletin) 昭和44年11月 ( November 1969 ) page 27, ステアリング ホイール 木製 (Steering wheel. Wood ) シフト レバー ノブ  木製 (Shift lever knob. Wood ) page 130, 握り部分を木製にし、スポーティムードを出しました。 (The grip is wood , to show sportier mood ) Kats
    3 points
  30. Some more photos from my 'autopsy'. This time from the outer surface of the rim where 50+ years of use has worn through the outer layer and revealed a naturally-grained surface below it:
    3 points
  31. Techno Toy just sent out an email for their new, custom made S30 steering rack. Check it out: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z
    3 points
  32. I think these 'collector's items' are worth saving for posterity: I must say '71Zcollector' is my kind of guy. He knows plastic when he sees (and feels...) it and he's sticking to his guns. That's the spirit!
    3 points
  33. Maybe it's not the brakes. Could be wheel bearings.
    3 points
  34. Hot is relative. Use an IR thermometer to say what the temps are. How freely can the fronts spin with the tire off the ground? Shoot a video of you spinning the wheels by hand. Post it on YouTube and link it here.
    3 points
  35. Progress… underside is basically done. Now on to the inside/engine bay… started prepping the brake and fuel lines today. Once I have the engine bay and interior painted, I can start much more reassembly. Seriously looking forward to it… I’m tired of looking at shell. I want a rolling chassis again.
    3 points
  36. Today finally steam cleaned the under carriage and glad to see all good under coating, no rust and most of the oil and buildup was around trans and diff. Got it nice and clean. Left the engine alone! It runs flawless idles great and don’t want to take any chance. I am thinking of keeping stock setup for now. tomorrow I am gonna move the balance weights inside and put on the stock hub caps etc. will share a pic later again. For now here is the shot …
    3 points
  37. Before you commit to 15" wheels, be sure you can find satisfactory tires. The selection in this diameter has greatly dropped in recent years. 16" wheels have a much broader selection available.
    3 points
  38. Okay, so this happened yesterday, but it's still within 24 hours... After performing well all last week at ZCON 2022, she deserved her spa day. And all done, ready to go for the next drive/cruise/car meet.
    3 points
  39. Not sure that I agree. Once the engine gets up to normal operating temps, the carb heating loop is closed (as in: inactive, does nothing, might as well not be there). Any emissions-related benefits would be restricted to start and warmup conditions, where the presence of the manual choke would overwhelm any contribution that carb heating might make toward reduced exhaust emissions. Remember, too, that the federal exhaust emissions standards (and related compliance testing) at the time were performed only at ~ room temperature ambient air conditions and with the engine up to operating temperature (i.e. choke off, main thermostat open). It was always my understanding that the carb heating circuit was introduced in an effort to inhibit drivability issues caused by carb icing. Not all carbureted engines suffer from this problem. As well, it apparently isn't specific to constant-vacuum carbs, nor to inline engines, nor to water-cooled engines. Nor to cold-weather operating conditions. It seems to occur only with certain combinations of engine, carburetor, and engine compartment layout and under certain air temperature/humidity/engine speed/throttle-opening conditions. Evidently, Nissan decided that it had heard enough reports of problems with early Z's to warrant spending the (not-inconsiderable) amount of money required to install the carb heating loop (complete with revised castings for the carb bodies and the thermostat housing). There's a useful discussion of the Z's carb heating system on Hybrid-Z, here. And if you use the search function here on the CZCC site, you'll discover that several discussions about the system have taken place over the years.
    3 points
  40. Ohh I just did this, I would use Eurodats part list for OEM part numbers, or on the right side it has the bearing number (e.g. 6305 c3) and order high quality bearings from an online distributor. I bought a bk104 bearing from Transmission Parts Distributors it had one wrong size bearing, it gave me a larger bearing for the fs5w71c. All of the bearings in this kit were from Nachi, they were very smooth.
    3 points
  41. I think I've read a couple of those over the years.
    3 points
  42. @SpeedRoopreviously asked about the Kanri number on the dashboard at the spot where there would normally be a pen holder. It's surmised that this was most likely placed there by a previous owner, as it is not a factory inclusion that appears in any period photos. @HS30-H had clued me into the fact that these rally pen holders were actually still readily available, so I bought several of them with the thought that I'd have to retrofit one with some sort of mount, in order to properly affix it to the dashboard. In stock form, they appear to be designed as clip-ons for a clipboard, or other hard, thin surface. With some samples of the pen holder in-hand, I elected to take a chance and finally remove the Kanri badge, and hopefully re-fashion a new pen holder and custom mount to be placed in the same location. I had always suspected that the Kanri badge was simply a decoration that covered up some form of glue blemish or tear left by the original holder when the car was converted to street use. However, I was happy to be mistaken - after a little careful prying, the badge came off, revealing a precise 1/2" slit and groove that had been cut into the dashboard. The groove fit the new pen holder snugly, so after a little massaging, I managed to situate the new pen holder pretty much as it appeared in period photos. Job done!
    3 points
  43. I remember tooth powder. The homemade equivalent is baking soda and a bit of salt. Shake it into the palm of your hand, rub the tooth brush on it, and brush.
    3 points
  44. Woah, Cliff! Ease up there. Don't want to wear it out all at once. 😂
    3 points
  45. Yep! just seen this topic and.... YUUPP!! your Crazy! (Just kidding!)
    3 points
  46. Before I put the front cover on the engine, wondering if I can get confirmation that this chain guide and tensioner alignment is good. What do you think? More pics: Oil pressure senders aren't available new from Nissan anymore, however, this "Sankei" from Beck Arnley looks like it could be an original one? More progress on both door panels and fenders this weekend as well. Getting panels flat is hard!
    3 points
  47. So yesterday Shot some white basecoat There was still a little trash in the paint. No idea where it's coming from. So I worked those areas with a little 600 grit and then degreased again and tacked the car
    3 points
  48. I think I could pass with a stand-in copy? We could put a couple close together and do the "shake and bake"?
    3 points

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