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  1. Big milestone last week. Car is back on wheels 5 years after I stripped it down.
  2. I think in South Florida we go straight into summer with 90 degree temps tomorrow! But, hey, I'm always ready! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  3. Wife was out of town this weekend. I can get so much done when she is away. It was like Christmas this weekend, woo-hoo. Got the hatch installed, front and rear glass in, got windows in both doors. Put in the choke plate after small mod to clear choke switch screw. Cleaned up floor area, installed kick plates and installed dash. Got wiper system installed. Cleaned up and put the old plug wires on cause i thought they look cool. Still a lot to do but she's lookin' pretty nice. Here are some pics.
  4. Once the shell was complete and back in my garage it sat untouched for a whole year. Since then progress has happened in short bursts but the latest one has been very productive and long. I always beat myself up for not doing more but I am pleased with how it's turning out. Here's my apprentice testing the steering.
  5. Hey Everyone, Let me introduce myself. My name is Craig , I live In Austin, TX. I have restored cars over the years but this is my first Z. I have been a member since last October 2018. I recently purchased a 1973 240z CA/AZ (one owner car) that's been hibernating for 25 years in a AZ. garage. I am working on waking it up. She is at a shop in Austin waiting to be worked on now. The previous owner started the car and it made a ticking noise, so they turned it off right away. I plan to keep it near stock and restore over time. It is presently Blue, I plan on taking it back to its original color Red 110. Right now I just want to get the car road worthy - I am going crazy waiting to drive it. I have been reading here a lot and educating myself and will continue to - so thanks for the help now and in the future.
  6. Thanks again to all for weighing in, it's great to have some like-minded folks to help get perspective on the situation. Had a great chat w/Patcon and am feeling a little more optimistic. At this point I'll probably pull off and discard all the parts that are beyond repair and then see what it'll take in time/$$ to get her driveable again. Once I get a required parts list I'll post up and see what's available to purchase from the CZC community. Stay tuned...
  7. Similarly, made it to a local show yesterday - about 125 entries. Four members of our club attended, I managed to snag a Best in Class award in the Post-War Import class. Voting was a People's Choice process by the entrants, a nice recognition for my car from peers. Quite a few rare and unique cars entered in addition to domestic restorations and rods. Check out the FB link below for pics of some very interesting cars. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.2425401730816296&type=3
  8. Hi Kats, It looks like the numbers shown in the table are correct. Not sure why the numbering was different on the early RH seats. One of my parts books came from Nissan USA's HQ and has hand written notes when the part numbers changed or when parts were NLA. Also included a picture of the page with the vinyl swatches that includes the blue vinyl.
  9. I guess it's a bit of a challenge getting this just right. Can't make it too shiny, don't want it too dull. I did get the manifolds installed last night. Nice to be working back on the engine. I temporarily placed the balance tube and flat tops on just to see what things will be looking like. The balance tube is a bit of a challenge. That brass plug on top is pretty hard to get out....even with the vice grips. Will have to try the fire and ice method on this and see if that helps to loosen it. Also broke off a fitting on the underside of the tube so I will need to drill and tap that out. I had to re-tap the threads for the air galley. Those threads are M14 X 1.5 for anyone interested. The good thing is that my water tube and exhaust tube for the EGR are in nice shape. I did a quick fit check on those. I will install as much of the tubing as I can before I actually install the carbs.
  10. When dealing with gaskets that tend to move out of place during installation, tie the gasket to the pan using sewing thread thru each bolt hole. When the pan is in place and the bolts are started just break the threads and pull them loose
  11. Howdy, I just wanted to share this super cool shift knob that @Captain Obvious finished for me last week. I wanted to repurpose my skateboard that I was using in high school after seeing these cool 917 shifters online. The Captain took the time to take the sections cut and glued, and shaped it to be just like the OEM shifter. He even was able to replicate the lower plastic portion out of aluminum as a final touch. We decided the correct thing would be to increase the diameter slightly due to having larger hands. With the small increase, I don't feel my pinky hit my palm like the OEM one does. I'd show it inside the car but I pulled off the interior to install the AC!
  12. George: No matter how long it took - it looks like a really great result. Certainly worth the effort, with something less than 3% of Datsun 240Z's being RHD and now in their 50th Year.. That is a rare and very desirable example. Finish it up and enjoy it, get it out for everyone to see. Today there are a couple of generations of people that have never seen one on the road.
  13. How many clamps does it take to get the headliner trim held in place? ............. Answer ... Many..... Been working lately on trying to get finished and drive-able local nwacc member & club president Scott M's super nice Black Pearl car. Nice to work on a car where dirt & grease have been banned everywhere ....
  14. First car show of the year for me. 55 degrees sunny and windy but a nice day with over 400 cars on the main street of the little town of Irwin just east of Pittsburgh. I was the only Z car of the bunch. I usually am, not many of the early Z around the Pittsburgh area. I did talk to a couple of gents that owned Z's but did not bring them, they both said there cars were not worthy to show at the time.
  15. So what do you guys think? Got them on the car today. The VTO Wheels look pretty damn nice! And of course that turned into a car detail project. She’s nice and shiny.
  16. So I was able to do a bit of trading with someone and ended up with a very nice canadian brochure, as well as a May 70 owners manual which will work well or my car. Included was a 510 canadian one as well.
  17. I still think its the AFM that needs adjusting.
  18. Could be engine oil or transmission fluid. Smell it. Both require transmission removal though. Might as well do them both. Might as well replace your throwout bearing while it's out. And the clutch is probably worn. You'll be down by the slave cylinder too. And its hose. The transmission mount is probably worn out. Pilot bushing. Probably have to remove the exhaust system, check the gasket surface. Might break a stud removing the pipe so that could be an issue. If you have to remove the exhaust manifold you'll have the intake manifold off. Might as well replace the injector seals. Don't forget......
  19. I know this is a really old post, but I thought I would follow up with what I learned. I tested baking hoses and it works quite well, here is what I did to form my own brake booster hoses. I started by testing a few pieces at 350 degrees for 3 different times with 1/4 od soft copper pipe to hold the shape, the first one I tested with my tire pyrometer to see how hot it was (hotter than 200 degrees in the middle of the rubber and that is the limit of the pyrometer, so I didn't test the others). I decided to go with a 7 minute bake, as you can see all three held their shape, 9 minute stunk a bit more so I went with the middle of the 3 for my final bake. I used 3/8" fuel injector hose which fit perfect, and has thicker walls than some of the other vacuum/fuel line hoses. For the real hoses I greased the copper tube so it would be easy to get out. I baked at 350 for 7 minutes, and the hoses stayed quite nice, not quite as tight as the factory lines, but they kept their shape well enough for what I needed. I think the trick is to bend them a little further than you need, and when dipping them in water, to cool them, hold the hose a little tighter than the tube holds it while pinching the other sides so it doesn't have a tendency to crush to get perfect bends. Well, that is what I did and I am satisfied with the results, it gave me a good looking formed hose without the cost of the braided ones, and if I need a new one down the road, I can easily make one for like $15 worth of stuff. The integrity of the hoses looks great, but I didn't test them in any way other than driving it around. I totally recommend this for vacuum line hoses, but I would want to test a little more before using this method for fuel injection or other higher pressure and higher risk applications.
  20. Well, lookie what showed up today!
  21. I commend them for that, rather wait and get as perfect as possible. I hope someday the Z after market is supported the way 60's American muscle is. You can practically build a brand new 1969 Camaro from the jegs catalog.
  22. Well shimming the r-180, backlash, pre load and wipe pattern took most of a couple days after work and most of a Saturday morning. I think I took it apart 20+ times. Finally happy with the wipe pattern. Luckily I didn’t have to change the pinion shim. Edit: I think in a perfect world I would have had a special tool to set the pinion nut at the factory 125-150ftlb. Then used different shims to get the bearing pre load perfect. But I had no way, so a couple of hits with the impact is what I used to set pre load, I found that info on here and a few youtube videos. It's not precise at all, just hopeful the factory had it correct enough. A bunch of site posts and a few guru told me to just reuse the pinion shim and move on. Everyone basically told me backlash is the most important. Ended up with 5 thousandths for backlash give or take and then ring side backlash shim if .05 and other side of .07. Total inch pounds is around 8-10 on the pinion. No carrier I had around 3 inch pounds for the pinion. This is worth paying someone to do. Just FYI. I had fun. But super frustrating.
  23. Clearly (and not surprisingly), there are people viewing both this ClassicZ thread and that BAT sale. Right after I brought it up here, they started talking about the dash cap on BAT and they're all over it now. It's an easy issue to fix. Expensive, but simple. "there has been some discussion of this car on a prominent Z car website, Classiczcars.com" Woot. We're prominent!! So just to be clear... I don't see anywhere where the seller ever portrayed this car to be a "completely correct" example. So all the chatter from people (like me) about the things that are "wrong" is info for the next owner who wants to make it better. That car isn't done, but it's a beautiful starting point!
  24. Ahhhh, the swiss cheese car! Bless you for taking this on! I went back and looked at the first pages of pictures. The car has come a long way and looks great! There were a lot of folks saying five years ago you would never recoup your investment but I think that math has changed in the last 5 years. I seriously think these super low numbers cars are, or will be soon, 6 figure cars. Congrats on getting through paint. Now the fun starts
  25. It's on the edge of being a 72 if it was built in 10/71. What does the title show? "Better off" depends on what your plans are. If you're going to flip it then there's a bunch of options. The resto-mods seem to be doing well. If you're going to keep it and drive it then whatever you want to do is best. A "Series 2" with Series 1 parts is still a Series 2. I don't think that anyone will think that you're "ruining" an early Z whatever you decide to do. You'll be saving a Z if you get it back on the road.
  26. Nice shot. Don't forget to take a matching, 'After' picture when the car is finished.
  27. Just for fun here's a picture of the 1st shipment of parts from Nissan.
  28. HAPPY BIRTHDAY CLIFF... Hope you have a great day and a cool Z driving year ahead!!! Sending love, Jai & Lissa
  29. Just got done adjusting the valves, all the clearance were too tight, couldn't get the .007 gauge bottom of the lobes and the rockers. Set both intake and exhaust valves at .007 now the compression has gone up to 150 psl on all cylinders. Tomorrow I will go for a test drive
  30. At this point I view sub 500s as $100k cars. So 22k for a not disaster project seems pretty reasonable. You do bring up a good point about some of the missing pieces that could be hard to replace. I always wanted a low number car but I have pretty much gotten over that because I want driver cars. The sub 500 cars are quickly becoming too rare to be practical to put miles on.
  31. I don't think anyone is saying that. On the other hand, some people seem happy to dismiss factory settings and data without even knowing what they are. It's all useful. And when you are restricted to period-correct and/or FIA homologated parts then the parts that the factory used in period are far more relevant than any fancy remote-reservoir WRC type struts. Personally speaking, one of the things I like about owning old cars is the fact that they are old. Period tuning parts appeal to me. I don't necessarily care about "what works now", and I certainly won't be fitting that new inboard rocker arm design rear suspension system to any of my cars. Yes we all have to be pragmatic - I am pretty much forced to use modern tyres, oils and fuel in my cars - but a '32 coupe with an Ardun headed flattie is much more my cup of tea than a '32 coupe with an LSX crate engine, even if the LSX is "better"...
  32. Thanks guys. I went back to the shop today (Discount Tire) and they were able to order me a set of BFGoodrich G Force Sport Comp 2's. It will take them a week to arrive, but, I like their extended warranty and they were willing to mount them on my rims. Costco couldn't look up cars older than 1983, so, they weren't able to help me out. The Yokohama S-Drive tires were just not available. I did check out Tire Rack dot com, but, installers in my area want $30 a wheel for mount and balance! Crazy... Anyway, it looks like tire manufacturers are making cheddar on all-seasons and larger sizes. Summer tires in this size are becoming extremely limited.
  33. Thanks Alan , that is very helpful to understand what was gong on to the seat designing at that time . A legislation effect, I got it . So was it like Japanese and German manufacturing’s adherents habit which were sometimes seen in industrial world ? Prepare and finish well before the cut off date of regulations applied. Lamborghini Miura , and Ferrari Datona didn’t have the high back seats in the same era , did they ? The legislation was not mandatory? Or just recommended item , not necessarily had a high back seat , a head rest was a must item ? How about other Nissan cars in 1969 ? Blue , Mr . Chiba is the interior designer of S30 . Approximately in early 1968 , dashboard and seat and other things had its design finished . He said in this book ‘ I disappointed a little bit about the finish of the production dashboard, the cray model which I designed had much sharper edges around meter foods. I was told by the manufacturer ‘ you can not have the edge here and there , and there ‘ I felt the technology of vacuum forming at that time was limited compared to today’s level ‘ This book ‘ Motor Fan ‘ 20th Oct 2002 is very fun to look at . Kats
  34. Thanks SteveJ! That link gave me the clue I needed. After removing all 31 fasteners, the oil pan wouldn't slip down/out to the rear. The only thing I had to do was pull the spark plugs and use a 27mm socket wrench to rotate the crankshaft until the #1 cylinder (front most) rod journal was retracted upwards into the block. Nothing else required. After removal, degreased it thoroughly. Lots of pieces of old gasket material was in the sump! Put down a thin layer of Edelbrock Gasgacinch on the new Fel-Pro gasket plus a layer on the oil pan. Waited 5 min as per the directions, stuck the gasket to the pan. Temporarily put all the fasteners back in to make sure the pan holes stay aligned with the gasket holes, while it dried. Put down another layer on the block and block side of the pan gasket. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly, right? Isn't that what shop manuals say? Well the pan wouldn't slide in past the steering rack, stopping an inch short. Whacking on the tail end with a mallet didn't help, it wouldn't go. Realized that there was so much caked on grunge on the steering rack that it was costing me 1/8" of clearance. Once I degreased it, the pan slid right in. Last hurdle was the pan gasket separating from the pan, at the front end. Put two fasteners into the rear corners to hold the pan, then the front of the pan drooped. Using a little L-shaped pick, weaseled the gasket back into place. 29 fasteners later and it was done. Let it sit overnight before firing up. No more drips and leaks!
  35. I actually was able to attend the presentation of the first watch to John. I had to keep it quiet until the press release. Burt Levy (http://www.lastopenroad.com/) commented to us that John was always so low key that despite driving for many popular marques, Nissan and its fans were the only people who remember him.
  36. Well my bodyshop is an excellent guy, but he surely takes his time to get all the details right. I love that, but i want my car back before i retire. That's why i always search for the best possible solution to make life as easy as possible for him. Lately i often saw those yellow panels from UK popping up on various sites. One of the "problematic" areas is stil the Rear lower valance. I got one from MSA so far and it's ok for most of the "american" restaurations i guess, but not for me... The main problem beeing that the Curvature from the original lower valance is missing. I thought i'd give it a try and got it today: I'm surprised about how different it is and how great it looks. Also got confirmed that it's the original sheet metal thickness as the cars came with. You can clearly see the "curvature" in this picture. The main difference aside from that is the "lip" at the bottom end (see first picture) and the more accurate shape at the exhaust area. Here's panel from MSA, see the differences? All a bout the details.. I really can recommand the yellow one above. They don't have a website but i often see these (and many other 240Z parts from them) pop up on ebay and various facebook pages. Price is also nice if you ask me 🙂
  37. The legislation seems stupid to the masses... but unfortunately the masses are stupid. They are taking over like zombies! What a sad world. Glad to be checking out in the next 30 years or so.
  38. I will have to walk away from the pissing contest about the dashes on this BAT thread. Do not wish to hi-jack it and detract from the auction. For those actually interested in the difference between the the two dashes, other than the huge price difference, my thoughts are as follows. Personally, I believe the exterior plastic is exactly the same for both dashes, and both are installed the same way (vacuum forming). Both have the exact same texture which does not match the OEM texture, but looks good. The difference is the foam portion. The Vintage Dash foam is molded and is a single piece. Just Dashes removes the outer plastic skin and trims the foam where needed and then re-foams and shapes the dash. I think the problem here is that there can be areas of the Just Dashes dash that are not replicated as well. One of those areas is the center cluster where the three instruments are located. You can actually see the difference in the pics below, Just Dashes dash is on orange car, Vintage on the blue. The 'Deja Vu' Dash is from Just Dashes and was purchased, I think, before Vintage Dashes was in existence..or at least in it's infancy. The Just Dashes 'scallops' are a bit fat and rounded, where as the Vintage Dashes 'scallops' are a bit more sleek. I did a visual check with my '70 and feel that the Vintage Dash replicated this area much better than Just Dashes. I did not check other areas of the dash. Instrument fit is similar for both dashes. The one negative for Vintage Dashes is that they omit some of the flaps in the glove compartment area. Not sure why that is as it would seem pretty easy to re-produce. The flaps are not visible once the glove box is installed. Anyway, just my opinion for those that are interested.
  39. Hey, just joined. Bought this 71 #33909 off BaT a few days ago form an owner of 30 years. The car is straight, all original sheet metal and rust free so I have a nice base. The car is now with Robert at the 240Z Guild down in Madill, OK for an evaluation and some refreshing. Have had lots and lots of cars but my first Z so this will be a learning experience. Also, I'm decent at the conceptual stuff but an unskilled fairly miserable wrencher so I got that going for me 😎
  40. "The present world system is based on a conceptual framework where owning represents an investment of our life, our time, our name, our character, or any other aspect of our being, for the sake of control over the thing owned. It's difficult to realize the depth of devastation this has brought to humanity, but every historical record that presently exists attests to the visible devastation wrought in wars of conquest and subjugation of peoples for the sake of ownership!"
  41. I like the shot next to the original wood knob. That's a great contrast between old and new!
  42. I don't know about anybody else, but for me what I call the "flip forward" function of the seat back wasn't so much about quick recline of the seat back for driving position, but more useful to access the area behind the seats and the tool stowage area/rear deck via the doors. Maybe everybody else thinks about it in a different way? November 1969 Nissan 'Service Shuho' #184 (Z-1) calls the lever the 'Reclining Device' and the large knurled knob the 'Back Fine Adjustment Device'. The later design added more forward flip, but I've always thought of it as more useful for access...
  43. Big milestone day! Got the rear diff and half shafts back in the car!
  44. I finally figured out how to fix my door seal problem and thought I would pass on what I found. My problem was that my passenger door seal works perfectly , but my driver side you had to use both hands to shut the door . These seals were put on years ago and should have taken a set by now . From my research and talking to several rubber suppliers I was shocked to find that many Z car owners are experiencing the same problem I have. I looked at the fender alignment, hinge alignment, and door panel trying to discover what the heck was the wrong. Most of the door on the driver side sealed correctly , but from the door sill to the top of the door on the latch side was really interfering with the door . What had happened was the rubber seal was bunching up between the door and the body. The normal gap for the seal was 1/4 inch when compressed , but my door seal was 1/2 inch when compressed. See photos of what I'm talking about . The seal should have been designed to normally push down under the door . Instead the seal I had was normally facing up and being compressed between the door/panel and the seal attach point. This could have been just this seal or a seal that was from a different supplier. What I was told was that there are only 2 rubber suppliers that make door seals for Zcars. I can't verify this but who knows. I couldn't find the Aki door seal as mentioned in the previous text and if ordered it would cost over $100. So looking on Amazon I found a wealth of door seal possibilities. The seal I ordered from Amazon is near perfect , seals the door to the body, and looks good. I think time will tell if the seal takes a set and remains sealed. One thing I did find was that a seal should only be compressed 25% of its original diameter to make a good seal. Any more than that and the seal will deform / compress and not seal properly. One other piece of note worthy advice is those who have a Zcar shop do ANY work for you should make 2 appearances per week at the shop unannounced to check the progress on your car. I trusted the guy that owned the shop I used and have regretted it to this day. I can't believe one shop could make the number errors that were made on my car if they tried that hard. This was only one the 47 other problems I have had to correct. And this was a shop chosen by Nissan for the vintage Zcar rebuild program. Hope this helps someone who is having the same problem. Ron
  45. Going forward for anyone recovering the seats on an early car, here's a tip on locating the hole for the hanger: After the old seat cover is removed, install a small round-head screw in the hole, install the new seat back cover, locate the round head screw, make a small "X" cut on top of the screw, remove the screw, install the seat belt hanger.
  46. Part of the 1970 New York Auto Show stand:
  47. Looks like a lonely "76 280Z. Reptoid to the rescue!
  48. Thanks Patcon. I was just pointing out that the answer to the problem was there over a month ago. I thought I might get a "haha" back. Maybe the realization was irritating. "Haterade" was off-track, and a mistake. That's the main problem with the internet, it records everything. Easy to go back and see what's what. Anyway, another Z survives...

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