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  1. Mission accomplished
  2. We will be loading the car tomorrow AM and heading for Branson. Here are some final pics of the car. Yes, and a few photos of @jayhawk and @motorman7 in the background. Looking forward to an awesome event. Thanks to everyone for the help, input and support.
  3. So I know that I'm way past the point of reasonable cost-benefit-labor-hassle... But at this point, it's me vs. my PO. It's personal.
  4. I built my workbench over 30 years ago and put the deck height at 42" just to make work and tools a bit easier to get to. A few years ago I gave up some of the length to make room for a shelving unit. Of course this also reduced available space for tool storage, resulting in stuff stored in different spots around the garage. Further complicating things is that I keep three cars stored in a slightly oversized 2-car garage so floor space is already at a premium. I recently spotted a mobile workbench at Home Depot and took note of the dimensions. Checking under my bench I realized I fortuitously had the EXACT right sized opening for the unit. All I had to do was clear out and remove a shelf under the deck. The install took place yesterday, it looks like a custom install, and lots of tools now have a new and organized home!
  5. Put the show tires on and took her for a short spin in the cul-de-sac. Got the center front bumper filler installed along with the alternator and smog support that came in from eBay. Will do the luggage straps tomorrow night. Motorsport parts are coming in on Wednesday. It's coming down to the wire.
  6. S30Driver

    Z Story Part 1

    My order from Sean Desart arrived safely so last weekend I replaced the muffler & S pipe with 2 pieces of the Z Story S30 system. When the downpipe is available to mate up with the stock manifold, I will order the remaining pieces to complete the exhaust system. I also purchased a stainless resonator and an adapter to go from 2 to 2 1/2 inches. My great neighbor across the street let me use his lift and mig welded a new resonator and the 2" to 2 1/2" reducer, or increaser in this case to adapt to the stock system. Everything fitted up great, the quality is beyond excellent, and the sound of course very pleasing. Nice burble at idle, and beautiful note going up thru the gears and highway speeds. Can't wait to get the rest of the system, hopefully next spring. Will do a video with sound clip when I have a chance. Thanks @Sean Dezart for making available a great product!
  7. This body shell is Fairlady 240ZG which belongs to Mr. Tasaka . He is going to paint it soon , now he is doing a final check of how the genuine over fenders fit well to the body . As quite some people are saying a story in Japan , original ZG over fenders are not symmetry, especially in rear fenders . Left rear over Fender is slightly positioned upward than the Right rear . Mr . Tasaka and I confirmed our ZGs are the same , both cars have same unsymmetrical rear over fenders. I used to have two sets of NOS ZG over fenders, but I sold them last month. I realized how beautiful and well- crafted the old over fenders which originally came with the car are . The NOS ones have fresh paint but , the edges are dull and the thickness is not the same to the originals .The NOS ones are more flexible . Maybe the NOS ones were made in 90s or later , that is why I decided to stick with my original over fenders . You can tell what I am talking about in Mr. Tasaka ‘s ZG over fenders. We agreed “Z is so beautiful even it doesn’t have tires nor body panels “ . Kats
  8. Motorman7 is more than a Datsun expert, he is the Fountain of Youth, who made me 24 years old again! (with key work by Datsun paint expert Miguel). I am incredibly grateful to him for enabling me to recreate that wonderful feeling getting a brand new 240Z - the car I knew even in 1973 that I would keep forever. This is not a car to be sold, but to be enjoyed and driven. Although we will try to show it off for a while, so everyone can see how a heavily used Z can be made new again by a knowledgeable and dedicated lover of Datsuns. Thanks Motorman7! Now for a road trip!
  9. Then they shall be yours.
  10. She's alive! Not sure if this video will download but will give it a try. Looks like I have an exhaust leak at the mainfold/downpipe interface. Otherwise, not bad out of the gate with minimal adjustments so far. Surprisingly , the only leak( so far) was the return fuel line near the gas tank. 20190705_135059.mp4
  11. Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short... I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site.... Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams... https://www.classiczcars.com/files/
  12. I used to use thin stuff like that. Until I tried 1/4" cotton cord - wet. I've done 3 or 4 that way now and it works so much better, pulls so much faster, no torn rubber, faster around the top corners, it amazes me. Ya, this stuff - wet - it's unbelievable.
  13. Today, the Los Angeles Times newspaper ran a fun little story that the longtime Z owners among us may relate to. Here's the link: https://tinyurl.com/y2t4pxja Dennis
  14. You know I had to chime in here. Still amazes me that people are promoting the technically inferior SUs over the Flat tops, which are stock for this vehicle. I think most do not realize the advances that were incorporated into the flat tops that are not on the SUs. The flat tops feature 1) factory aligned needle and seats 2) a visible glass float bowl level 3) Anti-stall fuel rich mechanism 4) multi-point adjustable fuel mixture screws 5) fuel pump accelerator. I would bet that most who are promoting the SU’s are unfamiliar with these features and have no clue what I am talking about. Personally, this car is about as good as it gets…I even love those hubcaps! OK, no more carb comments from me…I will go back into hiding. I tried to post this comment on the auction site, but looks like they will not allow it....perhaps it is too inflammatory. Maybe I should try to sanitize it and then re-submit.
  15. Thanks man. This forum looks like a better fit. This car is too nice to modify. Some of the paint is original but I don't know how much. I polished the wheels last night and spent 4 hours buffing the paint and polishing the chrome today. I hand polished it using some light compound and then put a coat of wax on it. It came out nice, but it is still a 20+ footer .
  16. Okay I have everything put back together so will go get 10gal of gas tomorrow morning and see if I can get it running, I got all the signals, lights and engine running well before I tore down so if I'm lucky ... I'll shoot a little video if all goes well.
  17. Picked up the fenders, fuel door and hinges yesterday from paint shop. Fenders are just resting in place. Will probably wait till engine is done before I do actual install. Also got the last of my plated items. Will get most of the plated items on the engine tomorrow.
  18. Thanks again guys. So here's that plug where my PO drilled through into the water jacket. Cut off and now flush: I'll drill and tap for the valve cover bolt later. Now that I've got good metal to work with, that shouldn't be difficult.
  19. One of the many great things about this Forum. Most people on here regularly, are on because they love these cars and the camaraderie with the members, not to make a buck or boast and prove their expertise. The pay it forward mentality for the greater good of the members and forum is the prevailing culture. Jonathonrussell just proved that once again![emoji481] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Oh, and my donor cam from @jonathanrussell arrived today and looks great! Thanks again for the incredible generosity!!
  21. I got a couple hours in the shop today. Here's what I started with. You can't really tell from this pic but that hole goes in on somewhat of an angle. It's not square to the top surface. It cuts in towards the center of the head: First I bored out the hole (hopefully close to the correct location) to about as large as I was comfortable with. Here you can clearly see the off-center hole that punctured down into the water jacket below: Then once that was done, I threaded that hole: And made a threaded insert on the lathe: Here's a test fit: I didn't glue the insert in yet. I'll do that tomorrow with a clear head. And then after I glue it in, I'll cut off the excess and machine flat.
  22. Just picked up a new flasher for the signals on the 280z and here is another one of these warnings, they seem to be everywhere. So how do I get cancer and reproductive harm from this little flasher? I think I would have to grind it up to a fine powder and snort it.
  23. Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum so I'd like to say hello! I'm an engineer and I'm trying to restore a 1970 Series I 240z in Philly. I bought the car sometime late February and since then I've been getting all of the tools I need to rebuild the car from the frame up. So far there are a few major areas of concern on the body and frame that I need to either replace or patch up including, but not limited to... Both rear quarter panels, trunk floor, both floor pans, firewall, frame rails (front), various lips, possibly an A-pillar and etc. I'm using CAD and the technical drawings from the factory service manual to try and make my own jig, but I'd like to know if any of you know where I can find plans that have been used to successfully make a chassis jig from scratch. The drawings from the manual are sort of difficult to read and I'm trying to do this without making too many mistakes. 🙂 Lastly, I plan on making technical drawings, and even some CAD models that I'll upload here when I'm finished and I know everything is functional.
  24. Well, it has been a while, so I figured it was time for an update on the Garage Mahal. I was able to get the horse stall area concreted in this spring, so I now have 100% of the floor space in usable condition. In the first week of June, I had the asphalt drive way put in. They did a great job. I now have a lot of parking area and space to turn around with the trailer to back the race car into the barn. I can back to the whole rig in, with the truck still attached, close the door and just walk into the house. No more 45-60 minutes to unload when I get home from a track weekend. That used to really annoy the wife. The original builder of the barn came out to give me an estimate on the ceiling. He said that the trusses would have no trouble supporting a steel ceiling with R38 blown-in insulation. I am thinking about going with maybe R49 for better heating economy. I got several quotes on heating. The 12' ceiling height was not quite enough to make radiant tube heating work. They said it could bake the paint right off the cars. It needed to be at least 16' to make it work. So, I am going with a forced air unit. I just need to finalize my research to decide if I go with natural gas, or LP gas. The local gas company said it would cost me $3K to trench the gas lines out to the barn. I have got most of the wiring done. All of the wall outlets are in. I also put in a 220 line. I wired in 6 more lights for the ceiling and added 4 lights along the back wall over the work bench area. All of the lights will be 3810 lumens, so I am hoping it is pretty bright. My wife is always giving me crap by saying "Do you want to do surgery in there!?' My response ..."Exactly!!" The brighter the better in my book. I still need to figure out how to install 2 ceiling fans on the trusses. A lot of the quotes were coming in higher than I anticipated, so I am giving up on the idea of running water out to the barn. It would be nice, but it is not a necessity. All of the wall insulation is in. About half of the vapor barrier has been installed. About half of the previously installed wall has been put back up, and the rest of the wall materials have been purchased. Over the long 4th of July Holiday (took Friday off too), I put in a lot of hard work to get stuff done. So, as a little reward to myself, yesterday afternoon, I got the Z out for the first time this year and went for a drive up Route 67 in Southern WI. 67 is a nice curvy road that goes through the Kettle Moraine Valley. The Kettle is a really beautiful area and a popular destination for a car or motor cycle cruise. It feels good to get this much progress. There is still a lot left to do. That's it for now. Later, Marty
  25. Hey Guys, I was sent here from the Hybridz forum. They said you do more factory and stock cars so it might be a better fit. I wanted to introduce myself. I bought this car 2 weeks ago from an old lady down the street. It was her husbands and he bought it in 1973. The build date is 6/1971. He never drove it in the rain and kept it nice. It hadn't been run in 7 years and hadn't left the garage in 10. I put gas in the carbs and tank, aired up the tires, fired it up and drove it home. It has 98k miles and service records since 1973. I have never owned a z before. I have been reading a bunch and getting familiar with it. So far I have changed the tires, belts, fuel lines, trans fluid, differential fluid, brake fluid, shoes, pads, and unstuck a brake cylinder. I have some interior parts coming to freshen up the interior. I polished the wheels today and tomorrow I am going to buff out the paint. This winter I am going to do the trans and differential seals, suspension, bushings, steering ect.. I am preparing a laundry list now. Aside from the suspension, the car runs and shifts well except when downshifting into third. It grinds every time, no matter what I do. None of the other gears grind. My buddy suggested double clutching but that hasn't worked. The fluid in the trans was thick and smelled like gear oil. I put in red line I think the PO used the wrong fluid. I was reading that the wrong fluid can damage the syncros. Is there anything else I can try to make downshifting into third smoother. Bill
  26. Looking snazzy. I went with stainless black lug nuts. I also have the raw stainless, it's a hard choice.
  27. Captain Obvious’s bumper prototype. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. Testing_Canada.mp4
  29. Had a wonderful time visiting with @jfa.series1 for a few hours yesterday. We enjoyed his well stocked and orderly garage while turning wrenches to tune his carbs. It was a pleasure to work on a gold medallion car and to work with Z Therapy restored carbs. So clean and mechanically perfect! Thanks for the privilege! @siteunseen will be pleased to know that Jim is now a believer in "Equally Shitty" 3 cylinder tuning!!!!
  30. Did he need bail money? He's a traveling Otis Campbell.
  31. Got the air cleaner back from Powder coating. Installed loosely just to see how everything looks. Meant to comment on the wires above. I thought that I would need to make a new radio and antenna harness after pulling these two cables off of the dash harness. I lucked out however, as these were the cables that were the original radio leads. Somewhere out there is an original radio with the cables cut off. The new OEM radio just plugged right in making things easy.
  32. A little more progress. Finished off most of the electrical, added more engine plumbing, installed glove box and partial radio.
  33. Hi , I forgot to report this , I found this car for sale in June 2017 in Japan . 09/1970 on the door jam tag . This car has an early bonnet which looks to be origin to this car but , the edge of the bonnet doesn’t have a small tab which can be seen in the one from 69- 1970 early. So , this could be the second bonnet , no holes / no reinforcements , no tabs . I enjoyed discovering this car’s condition, many original parts still there . It was a fun to look at various type of “ date” markings are corresponding. The seat belt 8 /1970 , the tool’s contents paper “ 45 . 9. 10 “ September 10th 1970 ) , even the wiring harness showing 70. 9. (September 1970 ) and , I see the jack has corresponding date “ P H Y “ ( 1970 August 25th ) . Someone has to rescue this car , still sitting outside of the shop . Sorry I wrote to many things , just I wanted to give some information of the date to see when this betweenness was applied from and up to . Kats
  34. Attended a nice small car meet today.
  35. Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20
  36. Haha!! I could possibly be convinced to make more. You know they aren't metric though, right?
  37. My DIY repair of the face plate , not perfect but I think it is OK for me . I really love Cray putty which is very easy to create shapes when I need . Kats
  38. I'm going to guess it's a 280Z? The other reason for cold air is a loss of vacuum at the AC control bottle. Pretty common. Split hoses. The vacuum woter cack (water ****) is normally closed.
  39. What do y'all think about spoons? I use one almost daily without poking my eyes out.
  40. Just a teaser for now without much explanation but this could get very interesting! Will do a proper write up as to why and what when I finish the work ... 1/8” increments ... Webcam pointing into carb mouth Nice view ... Timing light with rev counter fixed in field of view for analysis, need to improve lighting ... Let the fun begin!! Ah, no! Children’s activities stopped play at the crucial moment! [emoji22]
  41. Was that Penn State or State Pen? Dennis
  42. This topic picks up on a mini-conversation that I started on Grannyknot's 280Z build thread. These little washers are an important part of the NVH isolation design for the Z's rear diff. The design, from an engineering perspective, is a lot more sophisticated than meets the eye, so there's an incentive to try to install a proper replacement if your own have deteriorated (which they probably have, if they're 50-year-old originals). Unfortunately, the part is NLA from Nissan and none of the primary Z restoration parts suppliers offer a substitute. There's been some discussion about the need to use vulcanized rubber. I think that's a red herring (look up, 'vulcanized') and was meant to infer that the rubber part needs to be bonded to the metal part. While the originals might have relied on a heat-bonding process, its now 2019 and we have aerospace adhesives for this purpose. So: All we really need is the rubber part. Steve / Nix240 has cobbledup a wide range of rpreviously unavailable rubber parts for our Z's. I see nothing special about re-creating the moustache bar runner washers, other than using a suitable durometer rubber and having access to a good-condition original to create a mold. After that, they could be bonder to a suitable metal washer and, presto, we have another part taken off the NLA list. I think these washers carry across the entire 240-26-280 series without any differences. Maybe even the ZX's? Also: I'm thinking that the same might be the case for the Series 1's diff front insulator. Steve creates the rubber piece, then the owner carves the perished rubber out of his insulator, cleans up the metal armature, and then bonds in the new rubber. @nix240z Steve: What do you think?
  43. Ordered "Made in Canada" Clear front turn light Lens (Fathers Day). https://klearz.com/products/datsun/240z They will be used in HLS30-00147 (natural blue) as a tribute to the 1969 Tokyo Motor Show car. Now to find a radio antenna hole blank! Anyone have a pic? Found it!
  44. Hi Guy, thanks for the compliments. Will you be out in Branson? The car is not perfect, but it's pretty doggone nice, the colors are awesome. I wish we had another week or two to finish up some small details and do some final tuning, but for the most part she's about 99% complete. We chose in several cases to go with the original parts versus buying new or aftermarket replacements. The windshield would be a good example. It is the original 46 year old glass, complete with small rock chips and wiper scratches. In cases like these, the original part trumps a perfect aftermarket windshield for the build. The small defects are not super obvious in the pics, but I am sure the judges will ding us for such things. That is fine and understandable, it's just very cool to see the original part on the car where it's reasonable. Anyway, I am thrilled that the car will be at the show. I am looking forward to seeing all those awesome Z's!.
  45. Hoover bag shows it on VINS ~ 12,000 but not on ~18,000 so somewhere in between it changed. This gives a change between Oct to Dec 1970
  46. Dang---- I will really miss seeing and talking with you again Bruce, Gary, Charles and Cody, Steve J., Gary W., Wayne, Mike W. and Alex and so many, many more that may not make this Zcon. Great recent memories, but more to come next year at Nashville! Yes---the torch will be carried by Rich, Bob and I! Can't wait to get with you guys at Branson!!!! Safe travels in your journey East!
  47. Sure: Cut out the original rubber seal as much as you can before taking out the old glass. First cut out above the glass so that the edge is exposed then get a knife blade behind the glass to free it. Do all around before lifting. Remove all old seal and sealant. Address any rust on the pinch weld Install new seal on new glass Install stainless steel trim Fit weed wacker monofilament line inside seal where the pinch weld will go Fit glass into position with 2 helpers (1 inside and 2 outside) Inside person slowly pulls line while outer two push/gently hit glass into place. Start from middle of bottom (or top) and work outward to both sides evenly. Optional: Once fitted, use a long nosed tube of silicone to place sealant between glass and seal Optional: Once fitted, use a long nosed tube of silicone to place sealant between body and seal Tips: Watch some glass installs on Youtube where they use a cord/rope Use a spray bottle of soapy water as a lubricant
  48. This will easily fit in the garage, and this is the best price I've seen online. If I didn't already have a lift, I would buy this: https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2c000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html


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