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  1. When taking parts off of 50 year old Datsun’s, you may encounter some rusty bolts that need a little attention. Sometimes you just have to give up and break it off, then deal with the drill and tap that results. Perfectly normal. Some of the bolts on my “most likely to break off” list include the M8 pair at the bottom of the fender with the nifty little pointy tips that face upward, threading into an internally welded nut inside the rocker panel. Natural place for water to collect and make those threads just about solid. Well today I had a treat. The 75 280 that I’m parting out had two missing and already out, leaving just two that I had to remove. And surprise surprise, I got one of them out without breaking the bolt!
  2. I've been lurking on the Caswell thread for months, and finally pulled the trigger and bought the 1.5 gallon system. Built a cabinet: 2 sheets of plywood and sheet of poly from Home Depot, removable casters and power supply from Amazon, and Crockpot from Costco. Didn't want it any longer than 6 feet long, and wanted a fold down top so it's not a wasted space and I can also use it to work on whatever. Rustoleum Royal Blue paint looks surprisingly like the color of my 240Z block. 🤷‍♂️ Just starting off with small pieces and fasteners as I work on various stuff. So far, some success, some so so. Need more practice to get the routine down. Nice to be able to learn from others experiences.
  3. I replaced all the fuel lines on the rail and the Z runs as it should! I just got back from a 20 minute drive. One of the rubber hoses had a pinhole leak and was squirting a decent amount of fuel. I appreciate everyone’s help!
  4. Good news first, DAT307 is siiiiiick ! The car is finally back into its original color and this is beautiful ! Under carriage + interior + engine bay are done, clear coated as well, and today marks the start for reassembling the suspension/direction/brakes 😍 I also finished the dashboard assembly, and... Damn son, these red needles are popping, and my custom speedo/tachy faces are as expected ! Now just praying for the lighting to be following up. I noticed the Tachometer needle need to be readjusted slightly on the 0 and I inverted the Volt/Fuel Gauge housing (upside down)... In the meantime, the body panels are getting prepped. All weatherstrip will be installed to do a mokeup of the panels assembly and finalize the alignment to perfect the body lines. Now onto the less good news... When removing the oil pan for painting, we span the engine on the support and one of the header bolt fell off... I don't know for how long it has been broken for, but we had to remove the 13 others to get the thread cleared (luckily it came out easily so no need for insert). I ordered a new set of header/block bolts, obviously not available locally... I already have the gasket in the kit I purchased previously, but bolts might not arrive before the 17th, which is a bummer... Second bad one is that the Prothane bushing kit I got is, as well know for, not perfect... and the 4 (actually 4x2) bushing to be placed into the 2 supports for the rear diff are too small diameter, so there is a LOOOT of play. I am having some spacers made out of Nylon or Delrin for the time being and will see to get replacement from another brand, if necessary. As a relief, the rear diff. cover has been ceramic coated and looks fantastic ! Rear suspension were almost reassembled yesterday and the front are following closely. Also, the amount of spare parts and boxes is slowly reducing =D I received my 6-1 header from Motorsports/MSA, will have the black protective paint removed and a real thermal resistant paint applied, then goes the wrap.
  5. Any headers part-welded onto the flange have been so done to keep costs down. If you have the opportunity to buy headers with matching ports do so. A 6-1 will work, a 6-2 will work better*.....better still with longer twin secondary pipes joining to 1x at the rear of the gearbox and not before the firewall. All said, of the least expensive headers on the market - the coated MSA 6-2 is the best value : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6001CH Please note that its' 1.5" primary pipes have a much smaller inner diameter than other after-market headers although plenty big enough for a stock or near stock street engine. *for a street engine, what one needs to release is torque, not top-end power. A 6-2 will do this best and torque is what we use for each gear change and acceleration ; ask yourself how frequently you max out the revs to obtain max power ?
  6. The bidet has always intrigued me, but I have yet to use one. The splash of cold water is a concern, then there is the wetness after. Toilet paper breaks down pretty quickly when wet, so I doubt it would make a good product for drying off afterwards. So how do you dry off afterwards? A younger guy at work says he has one. He claims his backside is very hairy, and wiping after a dump is like trying to wipe mud out of shag carpet. I suggested he get that thing waxed. (ouch!)
  7. Certain elements of the 240Z electrical system were somewhat, ah, 'under-designed' by Nissan. The headlight circuit (all of it, including the switchgear and right on out to the headlamp sockets) is the leading culprit. The voltage regulator is a quaint anachronism -- easily replaced with a solid-state alternative if you want. There are numerous threads on these issues -- and their remedies -- here on the site. There are also relay-based upgrade mini-wiring harnesses for the headlight system that are conveniently available and at reasonable cost. For the most part, I see no reason to start replacing the connector shells, although replacing the terminals within them is (arguably) a better solution than the Dremel-cleaning strategy. To replace the terminals, you'll need the proper extractor tools and a good crimping tool (all available from Vintage Connections, who have been, in my experience, a quality vendor). We have a couple of leading electrical system experts here on the CZCC site and, if you're lucky, they may choose to add their 50 cents' worth here.
  8. I’ll post a few more interesting pictures I took of the beast.
  9. #00064 was dark green and they were asking $50K for it - it was in florida. That First Green Z - the pictures were for a car sold in Bring-A-Trailer...
  10. JIDECO A picture in another thread posted today shows an electrical relay (rear window defroster, I think) with the manufacturer's name ('JIDECO') stamped on the side of the cover. I didn't recognize that company, but figured that the 'J' maybe stood for 'Japan' and the 'ECO' for 'Electric Company'. The 'I' and the 'D' were a puzzle, though, so I did a bit of on-line searching. The answer lay in the corporate website of another Japanese manufacturer, 'Mitsuba' (wiper motors) that came up in some of the hits I got using, 'Japan + company + JIDECO' as my search string. Hiding in the 'History' page on Mitsuba's site was this entry: 2007: The Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Jideco) merged with Mitsuba. A bit more poking around revealed that Jidosha Denki's old website was www.jideco.co.jp. However, that site now just shows a message saying that Mitsuba and Jidosha Denki have 'merged' and providing links to the Mitsuba website. An old Bloomberg listing for Jidosha Denki said that they manufactured wipers, power windows and power lock systems and provided a single address: 1760 Higashi-Matanocho, Totsuka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa, 245-8510 Japan. So they were probably located not too far from the Nissan assembly plant in Yokohama. Entering that address into Google Maps shows that it's now listed as, 'Mitsuba Corporation Yokohama R&D Centre'. Street view shows us what the former Jidosha Denki h/q looks like today: Hard to tell whether there's any manufacturing facilities at the back of the property. The front part looks like strictly admin and engineering. The back part may just be lab space. Digging back into Jidosha Denki's history, I found this not-happy story from 1998 in a business trade newspaper: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo has unveiled plans to restructure its operations and those of its subsidiaries, a move which will result in the company's workforce being reduced by 30% to 700 staff by 2000. The company plans to close down three subsidiaries, with production being switched to overseas bases in India, China and Indonesia. The restructuring will leave the company to provide wiper systems, control devices and motors in Japan... Jidosha Denki Kogyo will move all of its mass production of motors for power windows and windscreen wipers to subsidiaries in the Philippines and China for its products to be more cost-competitive to its main client, Nissan Motor. Jidosha Denki Kogyo's two Japanese plants will stop production of these products by March 2002, and will specialise instead in making prototypes and some spare parts, and in assembling complete wiper units." Then in 2002: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo (JIDECO) will have a 35.8% stake acquired by fellow electric motors and wiper systems maker, Mitsuba, affiliate of Honda. JIDECO will issue 15 mil third-party shares on 07 January 2003 as part of the deal. The companies hope that the deal will enable them to improve their cost competitiveness by working together on purchasing, product development and manufacturing. The deal will result in Nissan and Hitachi reducing their stakes in JIDECO to 14.6% and 13.8% respectively." And in 2004: "Jidosha Denki Kogyo, automobile control parts maker, will invest around Y500 mil to restart production at its plant in Tomioka in Japan's Gunma Prefecture. It stopped production at the plant in 2002, but has now decided to use the plant as a major site to improve production technology. It has installed a new assembly line for seat-use operations, which is already in operation; and will transfer another such line from its plant in Kikugawa by September 2004. By March 2005, it will transfer a line for motors used in power windows from Kikugawa to Tomioka." And, finally, this, from the Mitsuba 2006 Annual Report: "The Company has decided to merge with its wholly owned subsidiary Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd., effective April 1, 2007. The Company and Jidosha Denki Kogyo, having been closely working, have agreed on the merger to enhance their synergy as an integrated group and seek greater management efficiency. The Company will be the "surviving entity" under the provisions of Japanese Corporate Law following the absorption and merger of Jidosha Denki Kogyo Co., Ltd. and its subsequent dissolution." And that was the end of JIDECO.
  11. From my notes on #556 For Sale 14 Jan. 2014 - Craigslist - Bad Rust - in Texas For Sale 25 Dec. 2017 - EBay - Beverly Hills, CA - looks like new floorboards&Frame Rails - bid to $20K - RNM FWIW, Carl B.
  12. Never heard of this brand, but it looks like an Italian Pantera. 351 V8 Ford engine, Italian styling. Z car + Corvette = 1971 Intermeccanica Italia Coupe. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-intermeccanica-italia/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-02-13 Weird antenna. Looks like a light pole.
  13. My 72 even has a towel bar on the front bumper. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr I don't like it, and it will be coming off soon. My plan is to get new bumpers with nothing on them, not even the black rubber strips on the outer ends.
  14. With one order I should have almost everything to restore the harness on this Z. Most of the work done on the harness was purely from an aesthetic standpoint, removing tired old connectors and replacing them with clean ones. We got lucky that no one decided to hack into the wiring of this car much previously. Here’s a quick before and after The harness tape they sell is nice. OEM grade, and slightly thinner than what you can find at the auto parts store.
  15. How about these wagons.....😁
  16. I know this thread is a little old but I just finished my wheel and I believe it turned out pretty good and to me looks pretty close to the brechures that were posted on here. Anyways If anyone is interested in the full story behind my 71 240z I have a thread going here: https://www.zcar.com/threads/240z-worth-saving-front-end-damage.421423/
  17. Sorry about that, thought it was clear. I installed a new fuel pump and the intermittent stumbling problem appears to be solved. Did richen up the front carb during tune-up, which appears to have fixed the detonation I was hearing. Only issue now is I need to get the OEM fuel pump rebuilt so I can return to the stock look. New fuel pump off the shelf is an ugly one.
  18. I needed a change of scenery so started on the other side for some variety, still lots to do on the roof but you have to take your victories where you can.
  19. Bought this for a friend. 67 chevelle 383 stroker. 15k. It's currently in the port of new york
  20. Sealing is the same for any engine that uses gaskets. Get high quality fiber based gaskets, not cork. Cork gaskets will leak before you even install them. For the oil pan, timing cover and rocker covers, be sure the flanges are straight, flat and true. No deformation around the bolt holes. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner using clean lint free rags, and wipe dry with another clean dry rag. This is important. The cleaning solvent must be wiped off before it dries, or any contamination will be left behind, and the sealer will not adhere properly. Apply a thin film of grey RTV (if there is squeeze out, you used too much), apply the gasket, apply more RTV to the other side, install the cover or pan and the bolts. Only run the bolts down finger tight (I use a 1/4 drive deep socket). Let it sit overnight. Pull the bolts out and add one drop of blue LocTite 242 to each one and reinstall. Then torque every bolt to the torque spec for the fastener size. Do not overtighten. For the intake manifold, again, don’t use cork gaskets. If I recall correctly, rubber gaskets come with the intake gasket set for the front and rear of the valley. A thin film of grey RTV on both sides, and an extra dab at the right and left ends where the surface transitions to the cylinder head (there was a GM service bulletin on this back in the day). The better quality gasket sets will have silicone sealer preapplied to the gaskets common to the head and intake manifold, so no additional sealer is needed there. If there is any squeeze out, you have too much sealer on. The excess can break off, get picked up by the oil pump and clog small oil passages in the crank, and valve train, resulting in lubrication failure. Like with the pan and covers, thread the bolts finger tight, wait overnight, then pull the bolts, add a drop of blue LocTite 242, and torque to spec. The distributor only needs a paper gasket, with no sealer. Again, do not use cork.
  21. That is a beautiful car and you are deservedly proud of it. What you are attempting to communicate is laudable but likely impractical from a car show perspective. I have a 18" X 24" showboard that I cart around to car shows, propped up nicely on a good quality easel. This is my third pass at a workable showboard after learning that 1. less is more; 2. clarity is critical; 3. it must be readable from 3-4' away. The amount of info you are considering will require multiple boards to contain. Experience has shown me that anything that requires more than a couple of minutes to read will not get read. 99% of car show visitors do not have the patience to cover large amount of detail; you may encounter that one individual prepared to occupy you for an hour or more. You'll always find people that don't understand or appreciate the marque and probably never will. Focus on presenting YOUR car as effectively and succinctly as possible. ZCoT Showboard - Jim Arnett 3 PDF.pdf
  22. I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : ( Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.
  23. That one on eBay shown as coming from Top End is the MSDSinc.com product (aka Marty mentioned earlier in this thread). Go to Marty's site instead if you want that one. You'll save $60-70 buying directly from him. He has a good reputation on here. I wound up going MSA's product over his but only because they have the exhaust-to-tail connection ready to go. Marty's part number related to that eBay item is HO-241, I think.
  24. Yep, signed in. I think IP address location probably plays a a part, like heyitsrama said. What's funny though is that the "web" thinks that I am located many many miles from where I actually am. The internet is both highly sophisticated and primitive at the same time. I am starting to wonder if AI isn't involved somehow also. There must be AI experiments going on out there somewhere. The AI bots think that I am an old guy with dirty ears who can't reach his own butt and needs Viagra. Someday surely, but still far away.
  25. The recent 75 that I just parted out displayed quite conflicting “usability” or should I say “re-usability” in many components that come in twos. The car had sat outside for I’d estimate 10-15 years at least. 95000 mi on the clock. 195000? Maybe.... 1. Spindle pins. Right side came out easily with my usual simple air hammer technique. Left side, no such luck. Even after upgrading my air hammer to the best one available (ingersol-rand 123KMax) and heating with dual MAP gas torches to 600C +, not even a micro-millimeter of movement. Off to the machine shop we go. I even cleaned out the cross pin area, although it came out without a fuss. Haven’t had to seek outside help for quite a while. 2. TC rods. Right side is near new, left side again not so much. Significant corrosion under the sleeve at the bushing end. Just enough to make me not want to re-use it. 3. Drum brakes. Unlike the usual drum to hub corrosion, this left side came loose with only a few hundred mild blows from a 5 lb, but then had to literally pry the drum off, the totally worn out brake shoes where bonded to the totally worn down steel liners and actually peeled off parts of the liner when it finally gave up. Right side? Just came apart..... 4. I previously shared my struggle with the lug nuts on the left rear side. One that had to come off with a ridiculously long snipe and a left hand thread lug remover socket So its no mystery to me that the car sat more on its left side in a damp spot. There were also many pleasant surprises. The gas tank interior was sparkling clean, as well the fuel level sender. The filler hose is still soft enough to re-use easily. The tank itself has some dents, which I will chronicle the removal of here later. Going to try one of the hot glue slide hammer dent puller thingamadooees. The hinges are like new, pin play and roller detent wise. How is this possible? The e-brake cables are free to move in the sheaths, which are in great shape! Again, Huh???? The rest of the linkage is dirty and seized some, but un-seized with little fuss. Even the lousy M6 threads on the adjusters just cleaned up with a wire brush and PB Blaster and the nuts move just fine. The little rotten cotter pins all came out with a fuss, as did the the square C clips that hold the brake sheaths to the brackets under the car. The tar mat sound deadening came off in huge sheets with my fingers. ok, the floor under them was mostly gone, that ones not fair. The steering wheel, the infamous sponge rubber “rotten on top where the sun shine, not bad the rest of the way around” was EVENLY rotten all the way around. Spooky. Actually feels nice high grip in use. The wiring is totally un-molested and in pretty good shape. No the clock was not working. I was sure it would work given the other nice surprises. Wiper linkage and motor. Primo! Even the 6 little M5 bolts that hold the linkage to the cowl came off without much fuss. Sun roof. too bad..... Front clip from in front of the shock towers forward, near perfect. Remember the hood prop clip still in place and unbroken? Still is. Saved it. Battery tray and surrounding body is nearly rust free!!!!!!! Saved it Now the rest of the body from the rockers down, actually bottom of doors down, was GONE. It was neat to see the seat rails still attached to the sills and trans tunnel, but half gone on their bottom where the floor was.....
  26. I think craigola actually brought the price down from where it could have gone.
  27. I'm confused... A real Alfa owner would never, ever, never, ever, ever call their car an Alfa "Romero". Ever.
  28. Dash to firewall are all M6 1.0 but are machine screws not self tapping, the ones under neath the ends are the same. Even the two in the middle at the trans tunnel (four for 280’s) are all M6 machine. They do have a starter tapered thread at the tip I suppose. The self tappers that hole the vent levers are #8 roughly, quite coarse. Sorry don’t have the exact spec. the four heater panel are M4 x 0.7 about 30 mm long, 25 at least. Run a tap into the threads on the dash to clean them up. They like to get cross threaded and nasty.
  29. In the middle of sub 10 F temperatures, been working on the routings for the AC hoses. Being one of the very few things on the car that's not original, I wanted to do the AC installation with as few permanent cut ups to the car as possible. I plan on routing the hoses down the passenger frame rail so that they'll be tucked away and not as much of an eye sore as the dealer setup was previously. To do this, I created these mounting saddles that I can zip tie over the electrical harness, and will also saddle each of the lines. 3D printed two to rough-in the concept. I think it'll work out nicely with a few more.
  30. Bought a 67 chevelle 383 stroker for a friend of mine ,from Michigan, Jackson, it's going to be shipped coming weeks. He wanted 18k but reserve was not met on Ebay ( 13 ), I offered him 15k, eventually he came around. Hope it all works out, it remains risky transfering alot of money overseas, without meeting the actual person. I asked as much information as I could, and let him sign the bill of sale and a copy of the title, and their adress checked etc, called a few times also.
  31. My connector pieces were built to match what was already there. Not perfect I’m sure, it is very close. The jack plates are my own design as far as I know. I don’t remember seeing them done before. But I’m sure someone else had the same idea. The TC bucket was removed by drilling out the spot welds and careful grinding. I just welded back through the spot welds to put it back on. And yes, my thread would benefit from “chapter markers” ....
  32. I just got my friend's reply: "Fill the air inlet of the impact with air tool oil, connect the air and then blast away at the nut. The oil prevents air from going out of the vanes of the impact, and will produce significantly more torque than just air."
  33. Like many things on Japanese cars, it is a copy of another manufacturers part. A Ford transmission I believe, but I don't recall which model. Like anything the Japanese copied, they improved it some. They really are good transmissions, I just don't care for slushboxes in sports or performance cars. Or any cars. Makes people lazy drivers. I never owned anything but manual shifted vehicles up until a couple years ago. I had surgery on my right foot, and couldn't quite coordinate braking and accelerating with my left foot, and operate the clutch by hand with a stick that can clamp to the pedal quickly by depressing a button in the handle (I did this a few years earlier when I had similar surgery on my left foot). So I was forced to get a vehicle with an automatic. Bought the oldest grandson's 95 Eddie Bauer F150. Drove it with my left foot for six months. Now it is my beater shop truck and makes the occasional dump run. If I had any say, no one would get a driver's license unless they are able to drive a stick shift.
  34. I would avoid that guy! Search Facebook and you'll find he has his own personal hate group...not everyone can say that. 😉
  35. Back under the Z, the half shafts were next up for a tear down and rebuild. Not a difficult job to do, but one you need to keep in mind the reassembly order and orientation of hardware.
  36. Low oil pressure readings are a consistent problem that many Z owners experience. Something like this will give you a clear idea of what your pump is doing, https://www.amazon.com/MEANLIN-MEASURE-0-100Psi-Stainless-Glycerin/dp/B08HRQKW8F/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=oil+pressure+gauge&qid=1612964155&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDMUg5QkYxUjJGTjcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMTUxOTgyRjBHSklGUFU4UEJWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MjMxMjlRTDg0NzhUVE1HQjcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl Replace the oil pressure sensor with gauge just make the the pump is working properly and give yourself some peace of mind. As for a long term solution I just finally replaced the gauge and sender with new aftermarket units.
  37. Same reason we have "Pleaded guilty" instead of plead; "Got milk" instead of have; "Gender" instead of sex; and the list goes on. I suppose it's why we've been able to move from "Whoever hath her wish, thou hast thy will" to "roofs" 😆😆 Sorry, guess I'm a latent pedant 🙄
  38. Its the same for the UK market cars, maybe a Europe thing.
  39. If it was mine, I'd get it running with the Webers for now. There's plenty of things to change after you've gone through your list.
  40. This popped into the inbox, a nice commentary on JIS vs. Phillips head screws. It got me to thinking about JIS screwdrivers and bits and I ran across another article that makes it clear that all the so-called JIS drivers on the market today are not truly JIS but most are the later DIN/ISO standard that is a compromise between JIS and conventional Phillips head screws. The bottom line: if the tool does not explicitly state it is JIS B 4633 specification, it is probably a DIN 5260/ISO 8764-1 spec. Close but no cigar! https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/that-phillips-head-screw-isnt-what-you-think-it-is/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=21_February_6_Newsletter_Weekend https://rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-screwdrivers-and-where-to-buy-a-jis-screwdriver/
  41. I got the call today and I'm officially moving from the iceball that is Michigan to the surface of the sun they call Phoenix. I will be taking my 78 280Z and the 996 for sure and I'm 96% sure the 260Z race car will go, but my stash of parts that I've been collecting for 40 years will have to get pared down to the bare minimum. I simply don't have the money to move everything or the space to store it out there. It will be tough to part with stuff, but it's worth it. Thanks all for the emissions help and within a few months, I will be posting from my new home and looking to meet up with you guys that live in the Phoenix area.
  42. Out of hibernation, step son slightly alarmed with all the 'whooshing'. Guess you cant please everybody!
  43. I put seats from a '90 300ZX in mine. I first saw some at the old MSA Zcar show. Asked the owner to sit in in his car. They were way more comfortable and supportive. He said it wasn't too difficult to install. He and I used the original adjusters from our S 30s and drilled a couple of new holes. Went right in and I've never regretted the swap. My old tired butt and back thank me whenever I go for a drive. Cheers, Mike
  44. This past week, I went to get my Z ready to move to my new place from where it’s being stored, I knew the clutch hydraulics was having an Issue, because the last time I went to see the car the pedal had no back pressure. I assumed I got a either a leak or air in the system, so I bleed both the master and slave cylinder and it was totally unsuccessful. I had replaced both the master and the slave about 18 months ago when I first started trying to get this car road worthy. I think they are both made by Wagner? This will be the 3rd master I’ve installed. The first I got from AutoZone and that one wouldn’t fit due to the rod being the wrong length. I tried to cut it and then it was too short. No biggie it was line $23. Then I ordered one from RockAuto which is the one in there now (about the same price) , BTW, I found it to be difficult to install due to the limited space under the pedals, and having to hold the pedal, while compressing the road and holding a light all at the same time while inserting the clevis pin. I remember saying to myself, “I hope I don’t have to do this again”. Not the case...So, it appear the master is bad now, it won’t transfer pressure to the slave and when I push the pedal with the cap off I can see a small boil of liquid come out of the reservoir. Well, this weekend, I decided I was going buy the real deal and ordered the Nabco master cylinder from a Nissan Dealership locally. The lesson learned for me in this is, it’s almost always better to buy OEM, this isn’t a hard and fast rule but if I would have done it right the first time I would have saved time, money and a lot of inconvenience. The new OEN master was $67 plus $4 tax and local pickup, being cheap doesn’t always pay...and sometimes it cost more, Buy once.....cry once. Lesson learned,
  45. Thank you all for supporting my sense of humor =P I'll probably make a poster with Bernie and send him out. Latest news: the interior work is finally completed 🙏 I am studying the battery relocation (probably end up with a braille 2015 in the passenger side toolbox) From the exterior, delete of the side marker holes is done, almost deleted the antenna hole as well, but after testing it is still working (going up and down at least) so I decided to keep the vintage style. Inspired again by @grannyknot and @wheee! I added the hood gas strut, so much slicker than the big spring bar crossing and visible behind the front grille. And we are now doing some cleanup in the engine bay, as battery is relocated, and the air intake and manifold are replaced by ITBs, we can get rid of a lot of useless stuff 😅 Next step starting on Saturday is denting and panels adjustment with the new weatherstrip, should take the week or so, before painting prep to start ! My excitement is through the roof ! Open question regarding the front side markers, as I deleted them from the fenders to have smoother body lines, I am thinking about putting them in the wheel wells, see below: No need to extend cables, just some plastic cutting actually... Finally some work started on the dashboard, marking is done and the alcantara is being cut (29 pieces in total):
  46. Been putting the last bits of the engine together today, I think she looks pretty good for a neophyte’s first go round. Now if we could just get the damn salt off of the roads... Hopefully it will crank easily and run well when the time comes, till then it’s brake line bending school. P.S. I know #6 plug wire looks as tight as a guitar string, pretty sure PO adjusted the dizzy cap etc to accommodate a short wire, had me scratching my head for a while


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