Patcon

@jfa.series1 Jim, would like to get the gas cap plated?

Looks good. Will be interesting to see if the harness plugs will go on and off easily

Used ones appear to be $75 - $100. So I would easily think double that but It might be worth a lot more on an auction site

You should get the early gas cap and ring if it's not too bad. Have it plated or send it to Jim (jfa) to have it plated

If you have a drill or drill press and some taps you might could make a tool to free it. Take a piece of steel schedule 40 pipe big enough to go all the way over the bolt and arm. Drill a hole in the pipe and tap it for a bolt, maybe 1/2" or 7/16". Make a hole on the opposite side for the wedge bolt to push out of. Slide it over the wedge bolt & arm and thread the "press" bolt into the pipe against the nut on the end of the wedge bolt to force it out Edit: Home depot has some black and galv sched 40 pipe. If it doesn't have to be too big of an id. I don't remember off the top of my head how big you would need. You might could just buy a close nipple the right size so you don't have to buy a long piece of pipe

The hose is actually rubber. It's just gotten that hard over time. A heat gun or boiling water can help make it more pliable to get it out or to get the tank neck into the tube

and he didn't update his thread!!!

Post a few pictures of the caliper, like Zed said

Is that on the 510?

Yes they are stock

Pressure washers not going to help much. It'll get it clean but won't really touch the rust.

The head alone would cost you $2,500 or more to duplicate. It was probably a really good deal .That's why it's already gone...

Most people want the 76 tank because it makes going EFI easier. Which I believe you mentioned as your plan for the future

I put the nut back on it most of the way. Lay a steel bar into the case laying on the nut and strike it with a hammer. It should come out.

That is what I do too

Take good car of those early hatch parts. They are getting hard to find

Thats a good deal for a set of carbs

If the engine is fresh, then high oil pressure wouldn't concern me too much. I rebuilt a chevy that did the same thing because the mains were on the tight side. I dont know how too high is a problem unless it gets to 100 psi. Then the oil filter can be at risk. What weight oil were you running?

Lets start with causes of high pressure Problem with the oil relief Bearing clearances Excessive pump output What is the engine history? Have you ever run any oil flush through it? If you haven't, don't! My first concern would be junk building up in the bearings driving up oil pressure. Oil relief could also be a problem

A wire brush on a drill can help clean up those threads too

Yes, kudos!

I would want the O2 even if it was to just feed a gauge. Makes diagnosis much easier

Keep an eye out for 300zx turbos after mid 87' I believe. They could have the nice differential in them. Remember to get the half shafts if you get the differential. Especially if it's a "Shiro"!!!

@Usain_Boat Would you do me a favor and note quote in reverse background if possible. It's really hard for me to read it. You might be able to get a pencil torch if you can't get enough heat too it. When you hold an iron to it, hold it underneath. Remember heat rises and the wires will heat better on top of the iron

What he said ^^^^^