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About 240dkw

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    Powell River,BC, Canada

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  1. I hear you, I spent a year working for Husky Oil in the Cold Lake area and during Maple Leaf days they would come over just above the tree top, one chasing another and just scare the *#$@ out of us.
  2. No it was removed to do the repair, photo is of it reinstalled on the new(original) rebuilt motor. And yes it was drilled out at both ends of the crack and ground out between the holes. I think it will last for quite a while, but will keep checking it every so often.
  3. So after a very skilled welder (not me) tried a few different options, what worked best was a brazed repair.
  4. It is also the stock one for the 69-70 HLS30-UN. Conedodger I sent you a pm
  5. KMS stocks some Eastwood products, maybe they can bring in what you want without any shipping costs.
  6. Does anyone have really good photo of this decal, I thought I could remove it to plate the cover, but I destroyed it in the process without taking a good photo first. I hope to get it reproduced.
  7. Siteuneen: FYI the second photo shows the parts, the mirror is not glued in, there is a rubber backing pad and they just float in the body held by the rolled edge. The metal is quite mailable just take your time.
  8. 240dkw


    Post #145
  9. Yes, i agree the door switch would turn them off and on, just not sure how the wire would go from the switch to the lights in the door. The wires would have to be long enough to open the door all the way and not to long to get pinched it the door when closed. As well as holes drilled in both the door and A pillar. Seems like a lot, when the hole is already in the door card and wires run in the harness. Much more than plug and play.
  10. Mark: that is how most of the youtube's show it being done. Now to see if I have the wherewithal to give it a try.
  11. I wonder how the power is ran, as there is no hole in the door or A pillar?
  12. I have had a plan to swap out the non-original motor in my car with the original, correct motor at some point and decided it was time to do it. I have been very happy with how the motor has been running, just want the number correct motor in it. First little problem I found was a broken cam oiler tube. This is very common and as I had checked the valve settings this spring and saw no problem then it is a fairly new problem. I have another oiler to replace it. The next problem was a bit disappointing. It seems I have developed a crack in my E30 non-emission exhaust manifold. The second photo shows the pattern of the exhaust on the back side of the heat shield. Now to decide if I try to weld it myself or pay someone to do it.
  13. I was just reading a TSB for the 1973 carb mods and the fuel free flow test with both the elec and mech pumps is 3 pints/min or 22.5 us gal/hr at 1000 rpm's so I do not think your pump is weak. If you do not find a "smoking gun" with a fuel problem, you should try changing out the capacitor on the dizzy. As they get old they can start to fail at higher voltage and create a problem where the rpm's go flat at WOT looking like a fuel starvation issue.
  14. I had to look it up, but yes the updated function is called the ATC or automatic temperature control. Page TE-28 in the service manual. They moved the flap from the snorkel to controlling the hot air from the heat riser on the bottom of the air cleaner.
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