240dkw

I think that the tabs for the screw are wrong on the left side. The one closest to the carb should be on the bottom.

This is what my window trim look like after a split second of not being real careful with a bench polisher. Lucky no fingers were lost.

Very nice videos, it will help lots when you put it back together. I was surprised to see a emissions sticker on the hood as your car has none of the emissions stuff. My car did not have one and as they are so close in Vin's I did not expect to see one on yours. As well, I see you have a header, did you keep the original exhaust manifold when you did the sap?

Not quite correct, all cars imported into all of Canada in 69-70, except the ones that went to Ont. They would have had all of the emissions system.

Seems like there is at least 4 types see post 27 and 29 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58637-balance-tube/?&page=2#comments

I agree with Jim, look at your carb linkage if there is no C and D adjustment screws then you have a true non emissions set up and would not have any decals on the air filter box.

That is what I bought. I have some left over of course, would you like me to put some on a smaller spool and send it to you? Price sure has gone up, l think I paid around 80 cdn about 5 years ago.

Sorry, yes I have been talking about the main voltage regulator, that is what failed on my car. I still say that if my system voltage was moving up and down with the engine speed the gauge would move too. But I am the guy who pulled the head of my motor when I had an electrical problem.

The temperature of the bimetallic strip is a function of the current flow. The oil sensor varies the resistance which changes the current flow. Pressure up- resistance down-current higher-temperature higher. I am saying that if the pressure-resistance stays the same and the voltage goes higher the current will go higher and heat up the strip more. If the voltage regulator does not control the output of the alternator then what does?

But there could be a correlation between a high reading oil gauge moving with engine revs(alternator) and a bad VR.

Nice car, I hope it goes for a nice price. Ok I have read it a couple of times and am I miss reading it or does it state that it is a low milage car somewhere? They write that the odometer shows 37859 when parked in the 90's and that the log book kept track of the milage from 72 till it was parked, but the photo does not show the pages right before it was parked?

No it is all stock, except the VR, it was a first generation electronic style one from the eighties.

It is a off the shelf grommet, says it is vinyl on the package so we will see what looks like in 500 miles

Well, the problem has come back, and this time I took a deep breath and started trouble shooting before tearing into anything. Much the same symptoms as before, running really rough and smoking. The more it ran the worst it got. To the point it was backfiring and would not stay running. I finally tracked it down to a bad capacitor(brand new) on the points. Once it was replaced to ran like a top for about two days and started again, once again it was another bad capacitor. I do believe my old style electronic external voltage regulator has failed causing the caps to burn up. I replaced the VR with a old mechanical style one and another cap. Seems to be running great again, but I have been here a couple of times already. Is there any thing else I am missing that would fry the cap?

Crazy, I look at the photo that I posted from ZParts and see different sizes. I would have never guessed that they are the same size.