240dkw

View Advert Polished Manifold & Balance Tube Manifolds are E88 castings, so only fit the later three screw carbs with the extra holes in the insulator Balance tubes extra holes have been filled in with alum threaded plugs and welded, both end or top connections for the brake booster line are available. Manifolds- $60 + core($50 core) + shipping Balance Tubes - $150 + core($50 core) + shipping Note: Fittings or insulators are not included Price is in USD if shipping to US, CDN if shipping to Canada Advertiser 240dkw Date 12/15/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale  

My 7/70 has the one on the left.

What is the assembly in the third photo for ? I do not think I have seen that before.

I can imagine what kind of buzz this car generated at that first show, every photo you show us from that show has a large crowd around the car. It would have been very cool to be in that crowd seeing it for the first time. The hostess in the background looks very lonely.

I think that the tabs for the screw are wrong on the left side. The one closest to the carb should be on the bottom.

This is what my window trim look like after a split second of not being real careful with a bench polisher. Lucky no fingers were lost.

Very nice videos, it will help lots when you put it back together. I was surprised to see a emissions sticker on the hood as your car has none of the emissions stuff. My car did not have one and as they are so close in Vin's I did not expect to see one on yours. As well, I see you have a header, did you keep the original exhaust manifold when you did the sap?

Not quite correct, all cars imported into all of Canada in 69-70, except the ones that went to Ont. They would have had all of the emissions system.

Seems like there is at least 4 types see post 27 and 29 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58637-balance-tube/?&page=2#comments

I agree with Jim, look at your carb linkage if there is no C and D adjustment screws then you have a true non emissions set up and would not have any decals on the air filter box.

That is what I bought. I have some left over of course, would you like me to put some on a smaller spool and send it to you? Price sure has gone up, l think I paid around 80 cdn about 5 years ago.

Sorry, yes I have been talking about the main voltage regulator, that is what failed on my car. I still say that if my system voltage was moving up and down with the engine speed the gauge would move too. But I am the guy who pulled the head of my motor when I had an electrical problem.

The temperature of the bimetallic strip is a function of the current flow. The oil sensor varies the resistance which changes the current flow. Pressure up- resistance down-current higher-temperature higher. I am saying that if the pressure-resistance stays the same and the voltage goes higher the current will go higher and heat up the strip more. If the voltage regulator does not control the output of the alternator then what does?

But there could be a correlation between a high reading oil gauge moving with engine revs(alternator) and a bad VR.