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About kenward1000

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    San Jose, CA
  • Occupation
    firmware engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    72 240z with 145K miles. PO upgraded to 4 wildwood disk brakes, kyb struts w/coilovers, 17" wheels. Originally orange, cheaply painted red long ago.

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  1. My issue was the connector on the wiring harness side of the fusible link had a broken off locking tab. The connectors stayed together only via friction and had become disconnected. Couldn't see the disconnect at first as DPO had put a wrap of duct tape around it, in lieu of replacing the broken connector. The consequences of having that fusible link fail while on a road trip are so high that I bought a new spare fusible link. Also bought a new wiring harness side blade and plastic shell. Didn't need to replace the blade, which is 8+mm in width, but I did have to destroy the old plastic connector shell to install the new shell. I got these from Banzai Motor Works $15 for the WH03 fusible link and $7.50 for the WH03/05 connector. Hope this helps.
  2. With enough heat and squirting with penetrant, got the old weak motor out of the rubber housing, after extracting the rubber housing from the reservoir. First installed the new MSA motor into the rubber housing, then tried to install that assembly onto the reservoir; not possible. Removed the motor, installed the rubber housing onto the reservoir, THEN pushed the motor into the housing. Success. Need to re-align the metal squirt tubes so the washer fluid sprays through the valence slots. Also need a tiny hose clamp (or maybe safety wire) for the passenger side washer fluid tubing (new tubing), so all the fluid sprays into the squirt tubes instead of soaking the firewall. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  3. With the hot water soak and two pry bars (which mysteriously look like screw drivers) was able to separate the reservoir from the rubber/motor assembly. Now, how to extract the motor from its hard rubber housing? The motor is going to be discarded, so destroying it while using a press to extract it seems reasonable. Is there another option?
  4. Just purchased a replacement pump motor, as the original motor is too weak to spray fluid anymore, even after replacing the tubing. How does the old motor come out of its rubber holder? Been dripping penetrating oil around the motor. Does the rubber holder need to be removed from the fluid reservoir first? The rubber isn't very pliable. Searched the forums repeatedly, found lots of posts about purchasing a replacement motor, no advice found on how to physically remove/replace it. Maybe I didn't use the correct search terms. I've been using this forum a lot since buying a 71 and 72 240z this year, everyone has been super helpful. Thanks!
  5. If the "fusible link" that connects battery power to the wiring harness has failed or if the connectors between the "fusible link" and the wiring harness have opened/pulled apart, that will produce what seems like a total electrical system failure (no cranking, no lights, no horn, no nothing) even though the battery is fine. Just found/fixed this problem on my 71 240z with the kind people of the Help Me! forum.
  6. Aha! That image led me to the problem spot. Now I can see the "fusible link", which looks very much like a length of black wire. The "fusible link" provides +12vdc to the wiring harness, through the plastic connectors. The tab of the connector on the harness side had broken off sometime in the past. So the DPO had put a wrap of duct tape around the connectors to hold them together. For some reason there's no slack in that wire on my car, so the connectors eventually pulled apart. When they were no longer touching, that fact was covered up by the duct tape. My "fusible link" shows continuity. Zip ties and clear heat shrink to the rescue, all electrical power restored, car starts. Should get a spare starter "fusible link" to carry with me on rallies, where a single-point failure means an expensive flatbed home. On the harness side, need to lengthen the wire by 2" to prevent tension strain on the connector and find a new connector end that has a functioning tab. Are there other "fusible links" in the wiring harness? Thanks for the replies!
  7. Wait, do you mean the 20A IGN fuse in the fuse panel? Already checked and known good.
  8. Where is the IGN fuse located? Thanks
  9. Where is this alternator fuse located? Thanks
  10. 71 240z owned for 5 months. Been on two 900 mile rallies, driven daily, been running great. Decided to re-check vacuum pressure, after replacing two leaking hoses (block to intake manifold, intake manifold to brake booster). Started car, let it warm up. Shut it off, plugged in vacuum gauge hose. Car won't start. Won't crank, no turn signals, no horn, no nothing. Even though I thought that plugging in the vacuum gauge couldn't possibly cause the problem, removed it and still no electrical power. Battery is 2 years old, measures 12.75vdc. Searched all forums for similar issues. Charged overnight, still no electrics. Jumped from a known good battery, still no electrics. No voltage detected at any fuse in the panel, all fuses good. I'm electrically competent. Would appreciate any tips on where I can look for potential failures.
  11. Thanks to jfa.series1 for telling me how to figure it out. Got the hinges in and solved my hatch issues. Thanks!
  12. bought 71 240z 3 months ago. the driver side hatch at hinge has always stood proud. seller had no info, said it was like that when he bought it, always kept it garaged so he didn't worry about rain. efforts to adjust (after searching forums) all failed. removed that hinge, has a lot of bench grinder marks for some reason. decided to replace both hinges, eBay @ $40/pair. they arrived this morning and are symmetrically different, seems like they're made for specific sides of the car does replacement hinge image 5356 show the correct orientation, driver side on the left? thanks! couldn't resist putting a TLA in the title
  13. View Advert 75-76 280z fuel tank Removed from my 71 240z. No leaks, fully functional, clean inside, never coated. Not sure why it was ever installed. Replaced by good 240z tank. Some small dents, some evidence of repairs. Includes working fuel level sender. Can include unused Bill Hirsch 3 part lining kit. More images available upon request. Can box and ship, estimated domestic shipping cost $75. Advertiser kenward1000 Date 09/29/2019 Price $450.00 Category Parts for Sale  

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Removed from my 71 240z. No leaks, fully functional, clean inside, never coated. Not sure why it was ever installed. Replaced by good 240z tank. Some small dents, some evidence of repairs. Includes working fuel level sender. Can include unused Bill Hirsch 3 part lining kit. More images available upon request. Can box and ship, estimated domestic shipping cost $75.


    San Jose, California - US

  15. This is my first points replacement so there could be confustion. Now that I've got the distributor drive tang oriented correctly, I'm going to set the points gap at 0.020" by rotating the eccentric screw in the cutout, in the points plate. This will initially set the dwell angle. For initial timing, going to use the 12vdc lamp with two alligator clips, to rotate the distributor itself. Going for 10 degrees. After I've got it running going to use the Innova 5568 to check for dwell angle within the stock limits. Finally going to check for timing within the stock limits. Or should I be initially setting the timing before initially setting up the points gap/dwell angle? Innova says set dwell first.