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About kenward1000

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    Active Member


  • Map Location
    San Jose, CA
  • Occupation
    firmware engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    72 240z with 145K miles. PO upgraded to 4 wildwood disk brakes, kyb struts w/coilovers, 17" wheels. Originally orange, cheaply painted red long ago.

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  1. Progress has been made. Got the correct collar adjustment tools, raised the passenger side collars up to where the driver side collars are. Front cross member ground clearance has been increased from 3.5" to 4.5". I'd like it to be another inch or so higher. First tried to adjust the collars with some makeshift tools, only succeeded in marking up the aluminum collars. Getting the right tool for the right job made the task much easier. Thanks for the suggestions!
  2. Didn't notice that they were adjusted differently until these images. Looks like I'd have to jack it up, remove the front wheels for access, needs a special tool to loosen the collar jam nuts then turn the collars. Which way would I turn the collars in order to increase ground clearance? Towards the top of the shock or towards the ground?
  3. Yes, the red one. Selling it as soon as ground clearance issue is fixed. The green one has gotten some sweet upgrades from Rob and is a keeper. Here's some images of the QA1's with their springs and collars. Don't know how the collars could have changed over two years. Just adjust them until the clearance between the ground and the cross member is back to 6", which is what I want?
  4. January '19 acquired a 72 240z. Previous owner installed a Wilwood brake kit, 17" wheels, upgraded suspension. QA1's with chrome coil over springs, 200# in front, 350# in rear, adjustable camber plates in front. As I've been driving it, have been thinking that front suspension is too soft and rear is too stiff. Over the two years I've owned it, have been noticing that it's harder and harder to get my floor jack under the front cross member, for jacking. Initially could have a 2x6 on top of the rotating cup, then it wouldn't fit anymore, had to ditch it. Next had to ditch the rotating cup. Now I have to remove the floor jack front wheels, to slide it underneath. I've measured other 240z at 6" of ground clearance. My '72 is down to 3 1/2" today. Parking lot speed bumps are a problem. Searched the forums for "sagging springs" and other variants, came up empty. Don't know anything about suspension adjustments. Would appreciate a clue or two.
  5. Vacuum system is now complete and good vacuum is measured. Thanks for all the tips! Really appreciate it! The manifold hose barbs are installed on each insulator, for my TwinMax carb balance/synch tool. https://www.amazon.com/TMX-A005-Twinmax/dp/B004K5MH5M It works great on all my vintage twin motorcycles and works great on my 240. I'd previously tried my mercury column balance/sync tools, but the 240 pulls so much more vacuum that a bike, that they're useless. IMG_7029.m4v
  6. So I figured out the part number for the missing PCV hose barb for the intake manifold, ordered a replacement, arriving Friday. The hose barb coming off the PCV fitting at the block, now has a black rubber cap instead of the green air filter. You were correct about the open hose barb on the front carb, it was open to the atmosphere. Figured out by looking at a 71 240z that vacuum line from the front carb goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Checked to see if I could pull suction from the vacuum advance hose barb, could not. Have a Pertronix ignition installed, does the vacuum advance mechanism still have any functionality?
  7. Checked all the carb to manifold nuts, they weren't loose, but I tightened them up significantly anyway. Also tightened the hose clamps on the brake booster hoses significantly. Measured vacuum again, this time at the manifold rail, seems much better. Unclear on your suggestion about vacuum advance; suck on what? Bought the car last year and it's been disconnected all this time. Do I need to add a fitting to the manifold rail to accommodate the disconnected fabric braid hose that runs from the block? Thanks for your suggestions! IMG_6997.m4v
  8. Found that site yesterday, thanks. Engine is stock 72 240z, Pertronix ignition, 32 degrees total advance at 3000+ rpm, dwell 30 degrees, upgraded coil. Compression is 160psi per cylinder, +/- 5. I've rebuilt the carbs, synced with a TwinMax. Mixture screws 1 turn out from the stop, which makes the plugs burn clean. Starts readily with full choke, 2000rpm. Engine almost immediately begins to run rough at idle, rpm slowly reduces until it's about to die. Revving the engine above 3000rpm a few times improves the idle. Idles at 700-800 when fully warm. Really seems cold blooded. Just wondering if the 14" vacuum at idle is low, contributing to poor idle. Thanks for all the replies!
  9. Did a vacuum test yesterday on my 72 240z. plugged the gauge into a port on one carbs intake manifold. Reads about 14" at idle, goes up to 20" when revved above 3000 rpm. Are these values "normal" or do they indicate a vacuum system leak somewhere? If the reading is low, how to figure out where the leak might be? Thanks IMG_6987.m4v
  10. I'm dealing with some DPO hack. Looks like they had the front cover off, then mangled the head gasket when trying to slip it back in place. There are two small fasteners at the lower front of the head. The driver side one is missing but can't be replaced because the head/head gasket/front cover holes don't line up. Did some cleaning then external sealing today. If that doesn't work then it seems like the head has to come off, to replace the mangled head gasket and the mis-aligned fastener holes. Thanks for the tips!
  11. My 72 is leaking increasing amounts of oil, at the upper edge of the engine front cover, where it meets the front edge of the head. Looks like the head gasket is mangled there. No coolant seen. Trying to get a sense of how big this job is, any special tools required, anything that should be inspected after the removal, parts that should be replaced as a matter of course, the whole enchilada. Have all the normal automotive tools and mechanical ability. Searched YouBoob and the forums for threads about prepping for/accomplishing this task, didn't find enough. Thanks for reading this post!
  12. Yes, the unique left and right arm ID's, thanks.
  13. 5/71 240z. The wiper arm marked "761 TRICO LD100-L" has failed, where the plastic connects to the blade, and must be replaced. The other wiper arm is marked "621 TRICO LA87R". Should I be looking for a "621 TRICO LA87L"? The wiper arms on my 72 240 are marked "408 TRICO 55-R" and "409 TRICO 55-L". Didn't find posts on this topic, after doing a search. Thanks
  14. Thanks for the re-alignment tip! The Z Therapy DVD also advocates mix-n-match to find a pair of domes/pistons which have similar drop test measurements.
  15. Cool, now I know what those things are called! One carb is missing the nubbies, the other isn't. I'm trying to build the best two carbs out of four, so yes when I did the piston drop test on all four domes and pistons, I decided to use the pair that were the closest, which means that one carb body doesn't have it's original dome/piston. Are you confirming that there should be no binding between the needle and the nozzle, regardless of piston position?
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