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kenward1000

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About kenward1000

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    San Jose, CA
  • Occupation
    firmware engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    72 240z with 145K miles. PO upgraded to 4 wildwood disk brakes, kyb struts w/coilovers, 17" wheels. Originally orange, cheaply painted red long ago.

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  1. This is my first points replacement so there could be confustion. Now that I've got the distributor drive tang oriented correctly, I'm going to set the points gap at 0.020" by rotating the eccentric screw in the cutout, in the points plate. This will initially set the dwell angle. For initial timing, going to use the 12vdc lamp with two alligator clips, to rotate the distributor itself. Going for 10 degrees. After I've got it running going to use the Innova 5568 to check for dwell angle within the stock limits. Finally going to check for timing within the stock limits. Or should I be initially setting the timing before initially setting up the points gap/dwell angle? Innova says set dwell first.
  2. anything worth doing, is worth doing three times. or more.
  3. Thanks for the pointer! I always search before I post but must not have used the correct search terms. Got it fixed, thanks!
  4. 72 240z. Points were pitted, installed new points and condenser. Static timed it at 0.020" points gap. The car starts and runs. Checked the dwell angle afterwards with my new Innova 5568. Can't set dwell any more than 30 degrees where spec is 35-41. I'm at the end of adjustment range with the eccentric screw in the points oval. Set up engine for TDC compression on #1 cylinder, both its valves are closed, timing cover pointer aligns with 0 notch on crank pulley. Pulled the distributor to check the drive tang. Looks to me like 12:30-6:30. Is this the correct orientation?
  5. Figured it out. Yes, two ways to do it right. 1. set the timing light for 0 degrees and adjust distributor until the 10 degree notch on the pulley aligns with the timing cover pointer. 2. set the timing light for 10 degrees and adjust distributor until the 0 degree notch on the pulley aligns with the timing cover pointer.
  6. New 71 240z owner. Attempting to measure/set timing on a engine that has no vacuum advance. Bought an Innova 5568 digital timing light. Can see that the crankcase pulley has 5 notches, corresponding to 0 - 5 - 10 - 15 - 20 degrees of advance. Is it correct that if I want to set the timing at (for example) 10 BTDC that the timing cover pointer should line up with the 10 degree pulley notch (3rd notch) while the timing light display is showing 10 degrees? Or, when the pointer lines up with the 1st notch (TDC or 0 advance) and the timing light display shows 10 degrees, does that indicate 10 degrees of advance? Thanks for reading this!
  7. Thanks for the clarification! Good to know that I don't have to remove/replace the plastic filler tube. I'll go back to trying to fit the tank fill neck into the filler tube. The car is on jack stands with the passenger side rear wheel removed. Have a motorcycle scissors jack under a tank-sized plywood sheet, then a layer of cardboard to protect the fresh powder coat. All vent hoses are connected to the tank and routed into the body. Thanks for the tip on connecting the fuel filler tube!
  8. This morning tried to remove the plastic filler neck, take it downtown to Z Car Garage for identification. Can't figure out how to remove it w/o cutting it in half! From the images, can anyone confirm that the plastic filler neck is a 240/260 part vs a 280 part? Thanks
  9. After I bought my 71 240z, had fuel overflow problems. Discovered there's no expansion tank and the fuel tank itself is from a 75-76 280z. Sourced a good 240z fuel tank and the correct plastic expansion tank. Fabricated the hoses, now trying to install the tank. Seems like the plastic filler neck is not quite lining up correctly with the fuel tank. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong. Can't locate the owner who did the swap. Wondering if fitting the 280z tank required a 280z filler neck. I see there are unique filler necks for 240/260 and 280. Is there a way to tell the difference, so I'll know if the filler neck is why the tank doesn't quite line up? Thanks for reading this post!
  10. Connected the vacuum spigots to the insulators today. Measured and marked the center of a side, pilot drill 0.1090" then tap drill 0.1695" Tapped with M5 x 0.8, threaded the brass spigots in with a thin layer of Permatex #2. Keen to try this out. FWIW I can't diss the UniSyn; that's what Z Therapy recommends! This is just an experiment based on my years of balancing twin carb motorcycle engines like BSA, Triumph, Norton, Ducati.
  11. The drill size for tapping a 5mm hole is only 4.3mm (17/100") out of a thickness of 14.7mm so will have 5.2mm of material remaining on either side of the hole. thinking just center the hole between any two stud holes, center the hole across the thickness. An open Q is how well the material will put up with tapping, ending up with good threads. Since the vacuum stub will remain in the insulator, could just install it with some loctite. Going to experiment with the insulators because they're easier to replace if screwed up, they're straightforward to fixture in the drill press vise, don't want to remove the intake manifold.
  12. new 71 240z owner. just balanced pair of SU dome carbs with Unisyn, using instructions from ZTherapy. car now runs OK, but thinking it could be better. for my 70's Ducati twins, use my Twinmax electronic carb balancer. two hoses go to two fittings, one on each intake manifold. no moving a single air flow meter back and forth, can easily see relative vacuum suction, easy to tweak idle speed for pulling same vacuum at idle/5000rpm, tweaking so each carb starts increasing vacuum at same time, when throttle is opened. wondering if anyone else has tried this or mercury sticks. could do an experiment by drilling/tapping carb insulator blocks (could also use the intake manifold itself) for the 5mm x 0.8 threads. the fittings are capped after adjustment is complete. opinions are welcome.
  13. Chassis fuel lines are good. Removed the defective 280z tank today, picking up a good 240z tank tomorrow morning. Should be back to running by noon.
  14. Today drained the fuel tank completely. Disconnected supply/return lines from tank to engine compartment, on both ends. Used compressor to blow air through both lines, from engine compartment back to tank. Pressurized air came out without no debris, both hold pressure. Tomorrow will connect an external fuel bottle, located near the tank, to the line supplying fuel from there to the fuel filter. If car starts then I'll know that the lines are good.
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