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Av8ferg

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Av8ferg last won the day on August 1

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About Av8ferg

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    Memphis, TN

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About My Cars
    1977

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  1. Av8ferg

    New Member - 77 280Z 3-Speed Automatic

    People have a lot of options on this topic. From my research 10W-30 was the recommended oil with some caveats. https://zcarguide.com/datsun-280z-oil-change-guide/ Lots of discussions about Zinc Additives and many recommend Valvoline with ZDDP. Here is another link. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5765-l-series-preferred-oil-brand-and-grade/
  2. Av8ferg

    New Member - 77 280Z 3-Speed Automatic

    Eveyone loves pics on the forum....why are you holding out on us? Its like the plastic sleves over dirty magazines in 7/11, everyone wants to peek.
  3. Av8ferg

    New Member - 77 280Z 3-Speed Automatic

    I’d take a peek under the valve cover and look at the cam and make sure you lube it up with some engine assembly lube. I’d also crank the engine by hand first to make sure it’s free before cranking. I’d put some, new oil in first also. Something temporary to help collect all the gunk in the engine from sitting. You can replace it again later. I did this and after the first change and about 30mins of idle time the oil came out really black. Changed it again and now it’s clean. Dont ruisk running contaminated oil through your head.
  4. Av8ferg

    New Member - 77 280Z 3-Speed Automatic

    Yep, that’s the Thermal Vacuum Vlave. The 1977 is unique and I learned that the hard way. A 1978 will not fit. Here’s a link to a new 1977 one. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6173 Its a minor pain to install because you will have to remove the housing to install it because the plastic hose connections will keep you from being able to screw it in. Let me know if you have more questions
  5. Here are some pics of the inside of the 1978 ECU. It appears to me based on the last pic that there are no solder welds on those extra pins.
  6. I think CO just made the most reasonable explanation.
  7. Well, I’m very familiar with the Japanese culture having lived near Hiroshima for 3+ years. The details matter in their culture and they are VERY serious about the minutia. This is why they make great cars. They are super stubborn and don’t sway from the “rules”. I can assure you this details with the pins was a point of discussion in the design offices. To give you an example I once ordered a Hamburger in Tokyo. The menu stated the hamburger had cheese on it. I asked for it without cheese and the lady said it wasn’t possible. Bizarre to an American but not really to a Japanese. They make it exactly as the menu specifies. Not this is obviously a tangent and a big generalization of the culture and not representative of everyone but it give you an insight into the culture. They are AMAZING at process based things and not as good, pushing outside the norms. So I think there was a reason for the pins addition but I have been know to be wrong.....ask my wife. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I agree, why put the extra pins. It requires the company to “change” something to justify the production modification and associated cost. Not profitable to change for no benefit but ZH makes a good point that the wiring diagram isn’t different. I’ll post my findings after testing all these ECUs. I plan on marrying the ECU with the AFM that came off the same car too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Looking for the Z Oracles to help enlighten us neophytes on the 280z ECUs. I have acquired several ECUs at junkyards, EBay and CL. I thought it might be a good to have a couple extras and would sell the others I don’t need. I got them all at great prices...couldn’t pass them up. Here’s my situation. My car is a manual tranny, it had a AT ECU (A11-601-000) in it. The wasn’t running and I thought I had isolated it to the fuel pump relay because the pump wouldn’t work when I turned the key on. I replaced the ignition switch, pump relay and ECU all at the same time and the car was able to start so I never isolated it to any single part. Bench checking the old Fuel Pump Relay, I discovered it tested good. So it led me to think I was the ECU. The one I replaced it with was from a 1978 (A11-600-00) that I bought with a bunch of extra parts from a guy who converted his car to carbs. Okay so my car currently idles like crap, and current consensus is it’s a vacuum leak but unverified. I was reading through many previous forums about ECUs and found conflicting info. Some say the 78 is unique to the 78. One guy said his wouldn’t idle right when he had a 1978 ECU in his 1976 car. Other forums state they’re interchangeable. Looking at all my ECUs I can see a difference but they all have the same part number (see pics). Looks like the the 78 has more pins than the others. To make maters more confusing is my car is a CA car, so it has that altitude sensor, not sure how that plays in here. So I’m bringing all these ECUs with me to test in the car. I also have a replacement AFM I’m gonna test on the car too. Got it for $20 and I bench checked it today, readings were spot on with the FSM. What is the community consensus on the 280z ECU compatibility?
  10. Av8ferg

    Idle problems.

    Great, thanks guys. Once I do that I’ll report back my findings.
  11. Av8ferg

    Idle problems.

    Okay, good plan. Should I pull and plug all and the same time or one at a time? Seems like it would be easier to do all and then add one at a time back to isolate to bad line. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Av8ferg

    Idle problems.

    Thanks ZH. This pic of the engine compartment is a older than the current status but it can still help me find the spots. Of note: currently the clamp on the hose to valve cover is now on and tight and the hose to the TVV is also connected. The attached photo doesn’t have those corrections made. This is the only pic I have right now. I’m not near the car tonight but will return in a few days. Doing my research now so when I get there I can turn to making the fixes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Av8ferg

    Idle problems.

    ZH, thanks. Idle screw as zero affect on the idle speed. It does nothing. When I put the valve cover on I didn’t use any RTV just a gasket. I also have one broken bolt. Broke it trying to tighten the valve cover thinking this is where the leak might be from. I checked the PCV hose and it seems good. Here’s where the needle hits at idle on my vacuum gauge.
  14. Av8ferg

    Idle problems.

    I was hoping someone on here can help me resolve my idling problem. So this engine was recently brought back to life (sat for many years) and now I’m trying to get it running properly. Here is what has been done up to this point, 1. New plugs and wires 2. Valve adjustment 3. New thermal vacuum valve 4. New AFM boot 5. New PCV 6. New Oil Pump 7. New fuel injectors 8, new fuel filter 9. Cleaned and resealed fuel tank 10. Replaced ECU and fuel pump relay So here is how the engine runs. It starts up easily and right away with no hesitation. Once stated and foot off throttle it idles very roughly at about 500 RPM. Sometimes it dies unless it’s warm then it might hold the idle without me intervening. Adjusting the idle screw has not affect of the idle. I tried adjusting the timing by moving the dizzy. Moving it counter clockwise kills the engine and moving it clockwise all the way helps the idle very very slightly. Thinking I had a bad vacuum leak, I hooked my tester to the intake manifold where the brake booster connects and while holding the idle at 800-900 using my hand on the throttle linkage I was getting about 6 psi on the vacuum. So I don’t know where to start this problem. To add more suffering to my problem I also noticed I have coolant leaking from one of my freeze plugs. Not sure how difficult this will be to fix. 🤬 Another odd thing I’ve noticed is sometimes when I rev up the engine I’ll hear a “ting” sound from the engine as it revs back down. My initial thought it was then timing chain rapping off the cover or side. I say that because when I adjusted the timing chain it recall that a similar sound as I was working in there. I don’t know where to even start so any advice would be appreciated.
  15. Av8ferg

    Noob looking at A 1977 280

    That’s what mine is. Check the sticker in the engine bay next to the radiator
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