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Av8ferg

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Av8ferg last won the day on September 13

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    Emerald Isle, NC

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    280z
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    1977 5 speed

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  1. Dave the sending unit is a single female type bullet connector. Is this the one you’re talking about?
  2. Well when typing in a small phone with big fingers and “auto correct” turned on mistakes are made. I🤓
  3. Okay, I get what you’re saying and yes it appears the timing has changed with the HEI on. Warmed it up and put my timing light on and it was off about 3-4 degrees (retarded) at 800 rpm. I reset it to 10 deg and she’s now even running smoother, I took it out for a 30 miles drive and had no issues. Well, I thought I had one but I’m coming to believe my temp guage or sender it’s very accurate. I bought a radiator cap with a thermometer in it as a back up and it was showing much cooler than the temp guage. Took my son through a drive through for lunch and them temp gauge really creeped past mid range. I pulled over and the cap on the radiator was reading about 180 ish. So I’m missing the lower half of a fan shroud and don’t currently have the lower skid plate installed, not sure if that’s a factor. I’ve kept it off until I take the car to a shop to make sure the alignment is good. I did it the good of’ boy method. Eye ball it while drinking a beer, but she tracking perfectly. Maybe I should drink beer more when working on the car. It got even higher than this pic my son took.
  4. That’s exactly what my research led me to believe. Without other connector attached it operates as an E12-80. I think Zed Head had a good point and I will still place a timing light on the engine today and see where it’s at. Before I did all the ignition changes it’s was spot on at 10 deg at 800 rpm and the mechanical and vacuum advance was perfect. Off the top of my 17 deg of mechanical advance with a total around 35 at 3000 rpm. Don’t quote that. I’d like to find an adjustable vacuum advance Part number 22301-7901 and replace mine. Would be fun to mess around with the advance curve and see how it effects performance.
  5. These are challenging times for business and the economic future in the short term is not good. I have both friends and family that own small business and they all same the exact same thing. My brother built 4,000 homes this past decade and had decided to pull the plug as the housing market is set to get crushed soon. With the looming 1.0 rate hike next week next week it will only worsen. Spoke to a close friend yesterday who says he’s probably going to shut down his business and layoff all his employees because the customers are no longer there and his prices are increasing so fast he cannot stay ahead of it and customers are pissed off at him. The challenges are becoming insurmountable to many small business and there is three things I hear over and over from all of them, 1. Cannot find good workers 2. The cost of doing business has increased sharply and they have to pass those costs to the customers which is driving them away. 3. More hostile governmental policies and tax burdens 4. The cost to borrow money has increase sharply and they don’t want to take on the risk. I am seeing this where I work. We just announced we are closing 90 brick and mortar locations in the US, we have stopped hiring and profits are way off estimates. We are operating fewer flights and the stock has plunged 19%. We have seen a serious reduction is global package deliveries. This company is a bellwether for the health of the nation’s economy. All signs point to “storm clouds gathering”. I’m sad to see this vendor close. This is what comes up if you go to their website. Time to buckle up! https://www.cnbc.com/2022/09/15/fedex-ceo-says-he-expects-the-economy-to-enter-a-worldwide-recession.html
  6. Okay so here are my test runs today. I swapped out the Nissan E12-92 for a different one. Second one ran worse it was also as 92 not 80, third one is an aftermarket one (92) and ran well so the tests were done with that module against the HEI. Both ran well, but the HEI idles smoother and I feel the acceleration is cleaner or smoother. See for yourself below.
  7. I’ll just pull the electrical connection on the cold start injector and start there. The car seems to idle a little rich by the smell of the exhaust. News update: Ran the car off the E12-92 module today and wow is the difference remarkable. The car accelerates so much better on the HEI. With the Nissan module it is much slower through the RPMs. That Nissan module might not be good. I’m going to retest with one of my backups. Right now the engine is singing using the Flame Thrower HEI. Never ran better and after the Valve lash adjustment and new plugs man is the motor sweet!
  8. Well, these injectors were sent off and refurbished so they should be good. The guy sent me a report on each on with flow rates. I sent him 10 and he picked the 6 that were the best. Now I didn’t have the cold start injector sent off and like mentioned some posts back I need to make sure this one isn’t a bad actor and possibly operating when it shouldn’t. It’s warm here so I don’t really need it.
  9. I’m running the stock EFI. Those plugs have been exposed to all sorts of usually activity with the ignition issues and getting the timing and advance all dialed in. Hoping they look better next time.
  10. Not a bad idea, I’ll keep the extra two wires pieces I built in the glove box and a card with the wire setup drawn out in case I’m drunk and brake down 🤣🤣 Today is test day. I’m going to run the car around and see if I can shake out any more bugs. Yesterday, I re-torqued the head bolts from the rebuild and about half of them did tighten a bit (set 60 ft lbs), adjusted the valve lash and replaced the spark plugs. About 9 valves needed to be adjusted. 7 had too much clearance and 2 not enough but all were within .001 of the cold specs. (my back hurts now from that) The old plugs were fine but my local parts store had the NGK (BPR6ES11) in stock for $3 each so I grabbed them, only needed 4 because I had two remaining when I bought the 8 pack last time. Just doing my part to help the economy.
  11. That starter is a gear reduction starter from a ZX. It’s brand new. It does sound odd but works perfectly. Spin faster than the stock Z one. This one is made by AC Delco bought it on Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,electrical,starter+motor,4152 I won’t forgot how to swap these modules out. It’s dummy proof.
  12. Okay job is complete and tested. See link to the video showing both ignition modules working and how I quick swap them.
  13. I got my HEI installed today and took the car for a drive. I rode it pretty hard and it was a hot day today. The car ran flawlessly, clean acceleration and no engine hesitation anywhere. I only pushed it to 5,000 rpm because my engine is still very new., but it was perfect up there. Overall I’m happy. I also have my Nissan E12-92 unit bolted up a few inches away from the HEI and have almost completed the full wiring setup that will allow me to swap modules very easily and rapidly using no tools. Hey I’m a pilot I like redundant systems. We have 3 of just about everything on the jet I fly for work. Here are some pics, it took some hole drilling to make all this merry up right and some special totally flat pan mounting screws for the heat sink so the module would sit flush, there wasn’t a lot of room in the heat sink so this was a must. Once I finish all the wiring clean up, like the setup coming out of the distributor I’ll test the two modules back to back and provide an honest comparison. I made a plate that mounts to the distributor that attaches using the same bolt holes the original module attached with. Then I cut out a notch on the top of that plate and set in there one half (male) of the weatherproof wire connector and then using steel stik I formed a perfect mold of the area where the wires exit the distributor and around the connector. Now it will be sealed and a clean attach point. I haven’t totally completed that so expect pics of that tomorrow,
  14. Thank Chaz. Here’s the update. I’ve mounted and wired up the E12-80 module as depicted above. Temporarily wired it to the distributor just to test and the car started right up and ran fine. With this new location I was able to test my other modules some Nissan some aftermarket. It took no more than 1 min to conduct the swaps. I received the HEI but still waiting on the heat sink to arrive, should be her tomorrow. I took some temperature samples after letting the engine get to operating temperature. The base of the distributor was around 150 deg F and the module located next to the AFM was running about 120 deg F. Touching it felt pretty hot to the hand. I’d like to see it run cooler, if possible. I guess I could get crazy and mount a mini fan that is used to cool computer processors, would be easy to do but probably not required and a total over kill. I wanted to go back and discuss my thermostat findings. I ordered two extra thermostats and after removing my old one I tested all three in a pan of water on the stove. There brands were Stant (old one I removed from ca4), Gates (premium grade) and MotoRad (high flow). After the tests they all opened per the FSM and at 189F we’re full open (these were all 180f spec) . I’ll put pics below of each, The MotoRad look the best made, because it had a more robust construction but it also had a 5mm wider opening at full operating temp than the other two. The Stant and Gates look identical. Here it is on Rock Auto where I bought it. Car temp gauge seems to go to about the F in the middle of the temp gauge now. Before it would go past a bit. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4483860&cc=1209248&pt=2200&jsn=10415
  15. Thanks for Info Gents. I built my prototype for a new mounting location for the E12-80 module. I’ve mounted a bracket to base where the AFM rests. Might need to make some changes depending on clearance issues once all wired up but I think this might work as is. Like I said earlier I’ll mount the HEI to the existing bracket where the old TIU came in. It has a small bracket there and it has two screw holes to work with.
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