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Av8ferg

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Av8ferg last won the day on January 17

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    Emerald Isle, NC

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    280z
  • About my Cars
    1977 5 speed

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  1. Sorry, I did put his contact above but here it is again. http://heatervalves.net Spoke to him on Saturday he’s going to rebuild and test both AC and Heater Valves. Said he’s done hundreds. Got my fuel tank in this AM, never a fun job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Good advice above. Modern cars (not yours) have gaskets between electrical connectors. If you get water inside your connections like to the AFM etc you could create a short across a terminal. If the voltage is enough you could damage something like the ECU. Disconnect the battery before you do anything. You can power wash with care to avoid these connections. I power washed the heck out of my engine but it wasn’t running at the time and I let it sit in the sun and dry before connecting the battery. You can also pull connectors post wash use compressed air to blow out the water on the connections. You have to avoid the distributor for sure. Water will pool in the bottom and you won’t be able to start it. I like brake cleaner and simple green. Brake cleaner disperses water and has chlorine and evaporates quickly. I go Simple Green. Let is soak for 15 mins the lightly spray off with water. Get a bag of rags and wipe everywhere you can and follow it up with the brake cleaner. Cleaning the engine bay is a process. Get the big stuff and then over time focus one one areas and progress. Will take days or weeks to get it really clean but you need to get the caked off grime to get headed in the right direction and power washing with care in those areas (like oil pan and lower block areas) will help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Dave thanks for all that info. I don’t have plans to modify the system unless parts availability come into play. I have a Hitachi compressor. I don’t know it’s status, could be junk….or not. I guess the issue with a Sanden is getting the lines to fit properly. I usually try and avoid aftermarket stuff but in some cases technology had progressed making it better but most of the time there are fitment and quality issues. It’s not a hard and fast rule but something I’ve seen in my previous car repairs. Buy OE once or aftermarket 2x or more. Good news, got a hold of the guy rebuilding my heater and ac valves. Nice guy and price is reasonable. He said he’s done hundreds of these rebuilds and will have mine working like new. Sent them off yesterday and they’ll be ready when my new dash arrives from Vintage Dashes next week. (Thanks for putting your 6 part video series up on the dash replacement).
  4. Jim, late to this post but this AC dragon is beginning to poke its head out of its lair for me. Only because I’m replacing heater core and having the heater and AC valve rebuilt. Summer come fast where I live and I don’t won’t to waste half of it unraveling my AC issues, I have a stock system. My bracket is a ZX one, my compressor came off my car and is Hitachi. I have no idea if it works. I do know that the system was charged when I removed the AC lines. I had quite a surprise when I made a bad assumption that the system was depleted and removed a AC line. Made a mess and scared the crap out of me when it discharged. What a dummy! I saw these Sanden compressors for sale ~$200. Seems reasonable but is it worth having my rebuilt or tested first? Getting those fitting set up sounds a bit difficult and I don’t have access to a hydraulic crimper. Is the Sanden lighter than the stock one. I couldn’t believe the weight of that thing. I also could use a replacement condenser. Mine appears to have had several battles with blunt objects smashing up the fins pretty good not to mention it looks rough, I never see the logic of putting old crap back into service like this condenser when it probably on its final leg anyway. You did a sweet job on this, nice work and thanks for posting it up.
  5. Your diff is painted blue. Was it replaced by you or did you get the car with it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I wanted to start a discussion about the 280z HVAC. It’s a bit confusing to me and I need some education to make the proper decisions to move forward. My car is a stock AC car so it has two HVAC control valves. One is a vacuum valve for the AC and the other a mechanical valve with a thermostatic sensor for the heater. This sensor has a coiled copper wire that sits under the heater core and the other end goes to the heater valve. I’m not sure how all these devices work together. My reading leads me to believe this system is all that great, not to mention stock components are in the unobtainable category. First are there modern valve alternatives? Second, there are Nissan heater valves for a non-ac ZX that would probably work, the question is what do you lose with removal of the thermostatic sensor that’s on an AC car? Not sure why an AC car has this additional sensor and why it is coiled below the heater core? If I went with a ZX valve and kept the Vacuum AC valve would I not be able to control temperature? I really don’t know so I can’t make a decision on the proper way forward. My contact in WI that rebuilds heater valves has gone silent on me so I’m looking at alternatives until he responds. i have a new Dash that arrived from Vintage Dashes next week and when I return from my 10 day work trip I want all my stuff ready to go. I’m not doing this job twice. I needed the heater stuff squared away before installing the dash! I can’t imagine I’m the only person that has had to deal with this, so I’m hoping there is corporate knowledge out there on suitable alternatives. I live in the South and heat isn’t a must have but it get cold here. Got done to 28 last night. Summers are brutal….AC is a must. Mid to high 90’s during peak summer with humidity 95+ %. No AC = No Go. I’d like to have both work. There is heater valve off a 70’s Volvo looks promising. For sale on Amazon for $99 with free returns, only difference is the cable connection is on the opposite side. Could be an easy mod? Last pics are of this Volvo valve. Here are pics of the above discussed components.
  7. Glad you’re better Cliff. The library was getting out of sorts with you gone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Don’t forget to take 2 Advil afterwards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I’ve done this 3x. Make sure you match the length of the shaft off your old one. You want the throw length to be the same. It’s hard because you have to compress the masters rod, push the spring loaded clutch pedal in a confined space. Plus you need to light. It’s a really tight area to slide the clevis pin in. So I found a much easy technique because what I explained above is almost impossible unless you have hands of a 3 yrs old and weigh 58lbs and are good at Yoga. Here’s the way to do it . Once you match the shaft lengths by adjustment of the screw, then observe the threads sticking out the U-Joint. (Count them). Then remove the U-joint from the masters shaft . Go and attach the U-joint to the pedal. You won’t be dealing with all the pressures . Once the clevis pin is in and c clip on the go and install the master from the engine side. Lightly screw it in so it won’t fall out. Go back in the car and grab the threaded shaft and screw it into the u-joint you just attached to the pedal until the threads are are the right length from your previous measurement. Now go and tighten down the master in the engine bay. If you enjoy cussing and getting passed off try the first way first.
  10. You’ll enjoy putting in the clutch master.
  11. Mine are 205/55 R16 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I got the exact same wheels from MSA. Same size and color. They look great in my opinion on these cars. Have you decided one tire size yet?
  13. The past few weeks I thought the site went totally down intermittently. I think last week I couldn’t even open the homepage. I thought it was solar flares [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Dan this is an awesome post. If my wife walked in and saw what you did to the dinning room table…..oh boy would it be a bad day for me. I once’s used the oven to back some high temp painted engine parts and she about shot me for that, never saw it the act but smelled it upon coming home BTW. I have a couple extra stock wire harnesses that connect from the harness behind the dash to the center counsel. If you need one let me know. Got them incase I had issues with the connectors on mine. Any chance you’d be willing to print up a set of rear bumper plates. Something I thought about but don’t have a printer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Side bar…my fuel tank arrived yesterday. Looks good…it looks like it has a thick rubber coating on it. Clean inside, and it is guaranteed for life. Guy cut it in half, addressed any issues and removed all the rust and then welded it back, It was baked 3x during the process and then sealed on the outside. The exterior has paint streaks but I knew that going it. The material they use cannot be sprayed he said. As long as it trouble free I don’t care.
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