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Av8ferg

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Av8ferg last won the day on March 27

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About Av8ferg

  • Rank
    Av8ferg

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  • Map Location
    Emerald Isle, NC

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1977 5 speed

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  1. Saw this on youtube today. There was a lot more people there than I expected.
  2. Thanks for the pics. I have a feeling I would have drunk my face off if we didn’t have a pandemic. COVID saved me some money because I own so many folks on this forum beer that I would have come home broke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. You’re doing it right Dave....driving it. Who wants a hangar queen.. I’ll get mine there someday. Life has been extremely busy. Finally moved in the new place and we have stuff everywhere. I hear you with the AC, not sure how people drove without it back in the day. My car has stock AC but I’m 100% sure it doesn’t work. It’s on the list of items to tackle. Stock engines typically run better and are more reliable. You see these crazy mods people do and their engine sounds like crap. The only mods I’ll have are a slightly shaved head .020, headers and strongly consider SU carb conversion. Just bought a set of SUs with intakes and all the extras for $200 on CL Something about a carbureted engine. I know the FI is pretty good but wanted to maybe change my gameplan. Had planned on keep FI, but I love the sound and simplicity of carbs. HDAtom, the folks on this forum really know these cars and most have seen all types of mods and such. I like DaveWMs approach before you go crazy trying to do too much. The only reason I went for the full rebuild was that my car was in storage while my house was being built and it was something to do while I waited. You have to be careful of mission creep ( a term we used in the military to describe how you can be easily driven from your original goal). Like I said, I’d clean it up, do the compression check, if good maybe pull the head clean it up and have it rebuilt . Also consider knocking out some easy stuff, like replacing the water pump, and like ZedHead said check your timing chain markings to see where you are. It might be old and stretched and better to replace when it’s out of the car vs doing it installed. Then put it in the car and get it running. Make sure you get your tank cleaned up so your pushing fresh clean fuel too. Good Luck and keep us posted. You forgot pics of the car. It’s like porn to people on this forum. Everyone wants to see what you got so post some pics when you have a chance.
  4. Welcome to the club. This forum is different than most out there. Don’t expect to run into guys on here giving you a hard time or being flat out jerks. It’s why this forum continues to thrive. So I have a 77 too and my engine looked much like yours. I opted to rebuild a later L28 block. (F54) you have a N42 block. Doesn’t matter both are fine, I’d work with what you got. Like mentioned above these engine are robust. Dave WM has good advice, it’s a toss up in my eyes if you go the minimalist approach. I’m for rebuilding an unknown quantity because ultimately you don’t want to repeat work, and you want a reliable engine too. Installing only to pull it later is repeating work. It would be good to at least get the top end redone. Rebuild the head, maybe a little resurface and clean up the pistons. I’d be willing to bet your bearings are fine so its probably going to need new one. I didn’t take my own advice and did a full rebuild. It was a lot of work and got a little more technical that I expected. A full top and bottom rebuild is going to cost you about $1,000 minimum. That is if you do most of the work. The good news is there is a team of people on this forum that will help you get through it. It wasn’t easy but it wasn’t super hard either. It was a pain in the butt tackling a few items. I saw you mentioned possibly going turbo. That a whole different can of worms. If you want a turbo, I’d find a L28ET motor as your starting point. Turbo engines have a lower compression ration than stock NA engine when unboosted. There are several unique parts like a cam sensor and many parts can be hard to find unless you start with a turbo motor. You can do well with an NA motor like AK260 mentioned. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Cliff, you are truly the official librarian on this forum. Thanks for finding that. I want to convert to deck because my deck is in rough shape and it’s easier to build a flat one over getting that decking to curve properly. Low priority as I need get her on the road. I now move in the new pace on the 31st. And the Z arrives shorty after. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Not to highjack this thread but I hate my sloped rear deck. Mine is 11/76 BTW. Is there an easy way to convert the rear to to the flat one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I think you have the first production month of the 1978 model year. 8/77 began the 1978 model. That being said I think Datsun still changed stuff in the middle of a production year. Example is the 77 production year (mine is 11/76 and it has a sloped rear deck. Some 77’s came with flat rear decks depending on the production month. See link below. https://jdm-car-parts.com/blogs/news/vin-verification-of-us-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Well, sad to see everyone bailing out. I was really looking forward to some face to face with a lot of you guys. When you weight the pros and cons it makes complete sense. This has been an extraordinary year for sure. Hopefully we get a vaccine before next year. Sorry I’ve been absent on the chat. Extremely busy month or so for me and my family. Working my tail off, and in the middle of a house closing (sale) and moving into my new place all in the span of 3 weeks. Major issue with my contractor and a myriad of other life complications. I’m on my way right now to Amsterdam and then Helsinki, Finland on Monday. These is part of a 8 day European work trip. My Z expected to roll into my new place in a matter of weeks. Can’t wait!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Looks like an oil pan hoarder to me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Well, I took a gamble and decided to leave them alone. I could see the o-ring when pulled the striking rod out as far as possible. It looked fine to me. I guess was I’ll find out later if this was the right call. I’m going to be gone for work for over a week and I wanted to get this back together before something got lost. I have three kids and a very small garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I finished putting the transmission together yesterday. Thanks for all the help. A special thanks to DaveWM and EuroDat. I still need to install the shifter but waiting on a few parts there. Question on the reverse lockout assy. I discovered is can be installed in two different orientations. The mounting plate/ bolt pattern work any orientation to put it in. There is a spring loaded mechanism cam type thing inside this component so I placed it toward what would be the bottom on the trans but not sure if this is correct. The other side just has a flat rectangle plate. The FSM diagram doesn’t help and I can’t recall how it came out. Here’s a couple pics of what I’m talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Problem solved. Nice guys over at Pacesetter. I guess the headers come with these step washers but since I bought mine on CL I didn’t get them. They were $2 each and in their way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks Bruce, Just measured it there is 6mm difference, slightly less than 4 pennies thickness for a mental picture. I’m going to call Pacesetter and see if thy can assist. Second option is to cut some washers and stack them in one side. I don’t have a welder (yet). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I guess I should have researched more before asking. I knew I couldn't be the first to have this issue. 1. Make my own 2. Call Pacesetter Looks like another work stoppage!! AWOP = "Awaiting Parts" A term used in aviation when you are waiting for parts.
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