wheee!

I'm glad i used a media blaster for mine.... the few parts (flat panels) that received paint stripper were a real chore...

Fuel rail pressure is right on the money. I tested the newly rebuilt injectors and they all pulse properly with 9v applied. I have a new tune to load when I get back to the car. The tuner changed a few settings. TDC might have changed when I moved reluctor pickups in the CAS. My timing light still shows 10 degrees BTDC at the current setting though...

Thanks Zed. I checked the injector harness with my brand new Noid light kit. They are all pulsing. I also checked the injectors previously. I am set up for 310cc volume on these too. It sounds like 5 cylinders to me too.

So close!.... IMG_2983.MOV

Cleanliness is imperative. Clean your awork area and vehicle meticulously and also wear a cleansuit (cheap paper overalls) and full face mask. If you have the space and resources, turn your garage into a downderaft paintbooth (see my thread). Take your time and prep the vehicle with quality fillers and primers. Use a seal coat before paint. If possible, use waterbased paint. Less toxic and less fumes. Take a night class on painting or get some experience at a local shop if you can. Practice on test panels. Watch mix ratios and temperatures closely! Spray your paint in the early spring or late fall when there are less bugs. Winter is great if you have a heated shelter/paint booth.

Any air tool that runs for more than a few minutes will benefit from a large reservoir tank and a decent CFM rating. I run a sandblaster as wellas a paint booth on my 60 gallon 19 cfm unit. It barely handles it. A sander will burn out a 5 gallon tank in shor torder. I even have a 20 gallon unit that I use mainly for an air gun to clean work areas. Go big and sell it when you're done if you have to. It should be riveted but they drill out easily. Same as the door plate.

Toyota VR in the onesix

It would appear so. I am reading about filter settings to see if they can be set to allow more "noise" from the Home and Trigger signals to smooth out the engine.

Cover the paint stripper with cling wrap. It will enhance the process by removing oxygen and stopping the stripper from evaporating. I am the embarrassed owner of three air compressors. Each one bigger than the last. The single stage 60 gallon industrial one is adequate but I keep ogling number 4 with a two stage compressor head.... Enjoy the process!

...trying so hard to hold it together here.... such optimism! I love it when people have plans to be done "ina few months" for "a few thousand dollars at most..." While I am 6 years and $45,000 into my $10,000 6 month restoration...! One can dream I suppose!! I wish the OP all the best and hope it works out for him.

That's about a ten second clip. Andno, I don't claim to understand it much more than you.... Other than the lines should be more linear for an engine that is idling (mine wasn't).

Here is a screen shot of the most recent data log. I feathered the throttle to keep it running a few seconds. Still misfiring and coughing but verrrrry close to a smooth run. You can see the channel colour values on the left.

I might have said something unkind about Rotaries at one point. But I don’t see how that’s relevant.... [emoji13]

Understood, however in this case the car is not running, merely turning over and backfiring a few times before dieing. I have seen the log files and can easily see the synch and home results with errors for the other tunes. The issue with the last "tune" was the meltdown instantly upon reboot of the ecu. The starter was not engaged and the car was not running. I am running the Elite 750, but while i'm getting it tuned, It is the remorte tuner who sees the screen as I am over the engine holding the remote start button and feathering the throttle body....

The engine never ran during that meltdown. It all happened the instant the tune was rebooted in the ecu and the ignition was quickly shut off (Key ON position, turned to OFF). I have a copy of the tune on the laptop that I emailed to the tuner for his perusal. I expect that there was a glitch that happened suring the reboot and fried the COPs. I will reload a clean tune (that was cranking the engine without issue) before I plug COPs back in.