wheee!

Here’s the dyno graph. 6000 rpm pull.

The mustang dyno came in at 210 HP and 252 TQ, but the load sensor was flaky and I’m not really sure where we ended up. We spent 8 hours tuning and each better than the last. I feel like a true number would be closer to 250 hp and 290 TQ. With a bit of mechanical advance on the timing chain, it might make a little better power under 4000 rpm. I will redyno in the spring. Overall the car runs great now.

Well, dyno day came and the car did quite well. Despite a dead O2 sensor that needed replacing, my tuner Matt did a stellar job clearing up the fuel tables and working his magic making the car run smooth and idle properly. IMG_5656.MP4

Dyno tune coming up next week… crossing fingers that everything works as it should and I make good numbers!

Doors and hatch are fitting much better. Still some adjustments to make.

Here we have the famous Kia Sportage seal on the right and the MSA Z Store door seal on the left. The first picture is relaxed normal size. The second and third pictures are compressed. Note the difference in the compression rate of the KIA seal… much tighter. This is why they make great replacements for the stock seal!

Finally got around to a few things this week. Changed the fuel filter before the pump… only about two hours of driving on it and it was filthy! New lines and a completely sanitized and coated tank meant I must have missed cleaning the inside of the rubber fuel filler neck. Only place for the crud to have come from. after that, I drove it around a bit tonight and 5th gear works perfect with new shifter and welded shaft! Yay!

All my modern clutch cars are like that so it is a good “safety” feature for when the wife drives/starts the car. Plus it is part of the wiring of the push button and I have no issues keeping a safety feature installed. I have five grandkids climbing around in there at times and one of them is bound to push the start button eventually….

Why not just go coilovers? Prices are reasonable for good street sets like CXRacing. Not that difficult to do overall.

There’s always one more thing… I took the time to rethink the push button start system this week. As it was designed for the stock electrical system, the ignition needed to be activated by pushing on the brake to start the car. But this was a pain in that it was clumsy and if you stalled in an intersection while rolling, you needed to stop the car with the brake to start it. So I had an idea to replace the rubber bumper on the clutch pedal with another brake pedal switch. Normally open, closed when the brake is pushed. I drilled out the rubber bumper nut in the pedal box for the bigger diam

Just fixed that....

Well, it has been a long time coming, but I finally got the car out to a car show. Went to the 30th Anniversary of the Edmonton Z Car Club Car show on Saturday. Wow! Where did all of these S30's come from! It was a great turnout with lots of great cars. I am over the moon thrilled with SASSZ and how she looks in the sunlight. We weren't the only ones apparently because we took first place for the S30 class and Best in Show to boot! Validation after all this time feels amazing... Thanks to everyone on this forum that have helped push me along with advice and encouragement, parts and knowledge.

Installed the Techno Versions V Boost tach adapter last night. The ebay version, although functioning, tended to jump around a lot. The V Boost version has enough power to smooth the signal totally out! Still waiting on the replacement fuel pump. The stock unit can’t feed the volume anymore and is leaning out under load. Ordered a Walbro in line unit to replace it. This should also get rid of the pump noise that was driving me nuts.

You really need a 3D printer to fix these nowadays. Parts are incredibly expensive or unobtainium new, and used parts are just as fragile. A good 3D file would be helpful. Not just the case, but the switch mechanism too.

Always buy a pretty lady a drink…