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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. Patcon

    1/2 page of autoplay ads

    I would hate to see the site become untenable because of ad revenue. If a few more regular members became supporters it might become a mute point. For the price of a latte you can become a supporter...
  2. Patcon

    My 240z project

    Yup, they use copper for adhesion and they can also use it as a filler to make a bumper look really sharp. They plate it, then file and shape it, and then plate some more until they get it just shaped. Then they chrome it. It's a neat process
  3. Patcon

    1973 Rebuild

    Are you expecting any advantages from polishing the valves in this manner?
  4. Yes, no rubber hammer needed and no sealant should be needed either...
  5. Patcon

    1/2 page of autoplay ads

    I hate autoplay ads!!!!
  6. Patcon

    1973 Rebuild

    How did you accomplish that?
  7. Patcon

    2+2 gets some SEMA love

    That was my first thought.
  8. Patcon

    Sway bars

    I have done a few hours of reading on here and some at HybridZ on sway bars. I am looking at ordering a sway bar kit. I always felt like the stock setup rolled too much. There are a number of people with kits listed, but It seems there are like basically 3 choices: The ST kit with the rear bar behind the differential and custom "Transverse brace plates" $320-356 The FutoFab orange bars with the rear bar behind the differential $450 but the rear bar is back ordered The MSA kit which looks to have the rear bar forward of the diff and the floor has to be drilled $220 How many of you are running front and rear bars? Any complaints? Which kit are you running? Are any of you having frame problems up front? This is probably my most significant question. I don'e really want to do any welding up front since I have all that area finish painted.
  9. Patcon

    Caswell Plating

    There was a guy on you tube that ran a filter full time on his bath. He had a decent sized pump under his bench and like a 10 gallon tank. I tried to ask him on you tube, what kind of filter he was running. I assume is was a particulate filter, but I don't know what micron. I wouldn't run the charcoal filter full time. It would be nice to run a different pump setup. Caswell sells a little giant chemical pump, but I think it's overkill for my little tank and it's expensive. Maybe one day... For now, I will finish cleaning the tank. There is a little bit of debris in the bottom of the tank and I will filter that out through coffee filters. Then I will try to plate something. We'll see how it goes. It will be interesting to see if I can get a bright zinc plate without adding brightener. Might try it this coming weekend if it doesn't monsoon again...
  10. Patcon

    Caswell Plating

    I am getting ready to start using the Copy-Cad system from Caswell. I have been on the Caswell plating forum for help getting the process lined out but their forum seems to be rarely used and many threads have no responses. I have also read through all the threads I found on the forum, I thought this thread could sort of be used to combine the working knowledge of the experienced platers (ajmcforester, motorman7, nix240z and any others) on here and I would add in where I could and my experiences as I go along. I spent a day with Steve (nix240z) with him showing me his process a couple of years ago and I am finally getting around to doing this. I have acquired the power supply and the chemicals came in this week. Some of my bigger questions are: How do you clean dirty hardware? Soak in solvents? Parts cleaner? Carb cleaner? How to you strip rust? Bead blaster? Acid? Vibrating polisher? Do you pickle or acid was to neutralize remainder of rust? Are you baking hardware for hydrogen embrittlement? Thanks, I look forward to some expert direction Charles
  11. Zed head is correct. The O ring is between the distributor and the metal plate with the markings. Make sure you put it back with the pointer in the same place on the markings. That way your timing will be the same. The pedestal is the aluminum part at the bottom of the distributor that is held in with the two 10mm bolts. The paper gasket goes under there
  12. Patcon

    Sway bars

    Evidently, according to some very knowledgeable people the forward mounted bar can bind. Where the rear mounted bar won't
  13. In this picture you can see all 3 of the 4 bolts that can be removed to remove the distributor. There are the two 10mm in the bottom aluminum piece. One you can see, one on the reverse side you can't see. There is the single bolt I believe 8mm that threads upward through the plate with the degree markings on it. The last bolt is on the rear side of the distributor. 10 mm and threads down, sometimes it will have a nut on the bottom if it's been stripped. The bottom aluminum part can be removed and reinstalled with out affecting the timing. The other two bolts hold the distributor from moving and changing the timing. What do the seals look like?
  14. I was not trying to be insulting but Jalex's mechanic support is pretty non existent it seems. So I would hate to see him break it when he seems to finally have it running well.
  15. This is very true in a broad sense, but it is easier for some people to get out of the hole than others
  16. Patcon

    Holy $^!# I bought a turd

    I would blank off the brake booster port at the manifold until you get it running right. The booster might be blown and like ZedHead said unmetered air is bad. I wouldn't drive it that way but it will help you determine if the booster is good or not. If you hook the booster back up after getting it running good and the engines runs more poorly the booster is blown or the hose has a hole
  17. Patcon

    1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    I thought about doing that, but didn't really want to build up the door edge right there with filler. I was afraid it might chip in the future as the door jamb could easily get struck getting in and out of the car. I will probably cut it again tomorrow and at least tack it up. Might get it fully seamed tomorrow. I won't have double seams like I did today. I added slivers of metal in the other cut and that required double seams.
  18. I have been remotivated by Wheee! and siteunseen and others build threads. So I have decided to get serious about getting this car running and finished. So to keep up with the Jones or the Jones'n in Cliffs case I decided to start a build thread to sort of bring everyone up to speed on where I'm at... Bought the car from a guy in Charlotte that had it shipped from out West. He is registered here but really spends more time at Hybrid Z That was late 2008 or early 2009... Stripping the car down Sept 2009 Chipping sound mat out January 2011 Don't you wish you could be that happy about chipping out sound mat
  19. Patcon

    Caswell Plating

    I thought so too. My favorite part was that it required so little effort on my part. Set it and come back in an hour. I am trying to get as much of my plating this way as possible
  20. I thought I would post this up here instead of burying it in my build thread. Does any one have ideas on how to bench test a brake booster? I have an assortment of 5 or so small boosters. I would like to bench test them to see if any of them are good. Then restore the best candidate Thoughts?
  21. Patcon

    Holy $^!# I bought a turd

    I believe the wire tied linkage is for a dashpot. It was wired up to prevent flopping and rattling. Probably not an issue for right now. I think the valve cover vent is tied back to the pcv valve, so shouldn't be unmetered...
  22. Patcon

    1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    Worked on the quarter some more. Welded it up, then knocked it down some... Only to realize, I'm an idiot and I have to cut it again, because the door gap is uneven... Worked on the air dam up front and made some progress on that @grannyknot That was a good tip! Took one of the door handles apart. they have some sort of rivet in them. Ground it back and separated them Gonna look around and see if I can find a substitute (4.953 dia and roughly 25mm long). Might use a roll pin. Also I was looking at the door handles. There is a small rubber seal on both ends of the handles where they go into the doors. Are those seals available anywhere? How would you install them? Cut them or re-pin the door hinges?
  23. Patcon

    Holy $^!# I bought a turd

    It almost looks like they were trying to go turbo. Float bowls linked, intakes linked, sealed intake runners...
  24. Patcon

    Sway bars

    thanks
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