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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. Patcon

    Not a Z but so charming

    Similar, I suspect the red one is the same model but older
  2. Patcon

    The last word in 240Z Restomods

    There was a post a while back about this shop. Pretty cars, but quite pricey!!
  3. Patcon

    RIP Spiderman

    Married for 70 years to the same woman!!!
  4. Patcon

    Who makes the best repair panels

    I suspect that pretty much all of these parts are made by one vendor and retailed through multiple sources. The market demand isn't that large IE: all of the rear valances are stamped on the same line, all of the hoods are made on the same line, etc.
  5. I love Meguiars products but I find the assortment of options confusing and their website doesn't help to determine which product is best for what or why. I found what I used Smart by Puris 2 stage product. It was really easy to do. I found the wet sanding to be the more difficult part. http://www.finishmaster.com/products/smart-by-puris-a1-pure-compound-1-gallon When you buff, buff away from edges, never into them. If there is a body detail that might burn or cut, you can run a tape line down it when you use the cut compound and only use buff compound on it. Don't overheat your buffer pad or add a lot of down pressure on the buffer. The machine should be heavy enough to do the work. It slings everywhere so tape up rubber and windows if necessary.
  6. Patcon

    Where to go with this rusthole

    Good score on the parts! What ever you lay on bare metal, will not be your final primer (etch primer or epoxy primer). There should be a filler primer laid down after sealing then blocked out. If you paint in sections, your high build aught to take care of any overlapping epoxy paint. Epoxy is not know for it great sanding qualities. It's hard! and hard to sand, that is the way it is supposed to be.
  7. Patcon

    Another Clutch Pedal Question

    I believe Diseazd missed the "x'd" out last number of the vin. Yes I would expect they are both 73's @Zup Do you have the ability to make some pictures of that museum car of yours?
  8. Patcon

    Roof joints

    Finally, the actual translator
  9. Patcon

    Roof joints

    While I was at Zcon in Atlanta I got to spend some time with Gnosez at the car show. It was a lot of fun and very informative. While we were talking, we ended up on the topic of the Bad Dog frame rails that Gnosez makes and markets. John was telling me that when the frame rails get added to the floor boards they should not be fully seam welded. They need to be spotted in with gaps between weld sections. John was telling me when people have disregarded his advise and fully welded the floor seam, cracks have appeared at the roof joint at the top of the hatch. We were wondering about that joint and since Matsuo San was just a few feet away, we went to ask him about it. When we asked him about that joint, Matsuo San said the car needed to "breathe" and they put that joint there at the hatch. The idea was that the movement, from the car flexing, there at the hatch was better than stressing the A pillar and cracking it instead. He also said that since the chrome window frame is not structurally supportive, it needed to be like that. If the door had a real frame around the glass it might have been different. So for those of us, me included, who have considered making that joint more substantial to prevent cracking, that is not such a good idea if you like your windshield to stay in the car. John may have more to add as he was interpreting for me...
  10. Patcon

    1973 Datsun Z-Series 240z

    I would suspect filler. The tops of the fenders are even bubbling. The rear frame members look like they are rotted open. It is amazing how the values have climbed lately
  11. Patcon

    Where to go with this rusthole

    Sounds like a good father in law.
  12. Patcon

    1973 Datsun Z-Series 240z

    That is a rusty beast. The underside pics look really bad. $2,500 already with 4days left
  13. Patcon

    Where to go with this rusthole

    I think I would go the drill welds and replace route. I might change my mind if I could see it. More pics might help. Grannyknot likes pictures...
  14. I used 1500 then 2000 wet. Soak in a bucket of warm water with a little bit of dish soap in it. I used a hard foam block designed for sanding (it's blue on one side black on the other) and just wrapped the paper around it. I have a Makita digital VS buffer that I used for cut and buff. Pads are sold specifically for cut and buff. They are color coded for which ever activity. IIRC the black pads are cut and the white pads are buff. I used 2 liquid products I got from my local Finish master. I believe it is their in house product. Didn't have any real issues but it's a little nerve racking to take sand paper to fresh paint.
  15. Patcon

    Cody's Goon

    We bought a 72 510 wagon for my son about a two years ago. It had been hit on the front right and it took us a while to get that straightened out. Lots of pulling, shrinking and welding We rebuilt the hood out of two different hoods there are some more pictures of this on the forum, but I don't know where... We are changing the cars color from an Ivory type color to one of the factory orange colors. Last weekend we pulled the hatch and started reworking it but there was some bondo on there, so that required a good bit of metal work and even after that there is still a lot of filler on the panel I will try to post up some more picture tomorrow
  16. Patcon

    Cody's Goon

    Ok, I haven't done an amperage test on the tacho yet because it was cold today and I didn't feel like messing with it. I did adjust the timing a little. We had about 6d at idle and about 33d all in at 3000 rpm's. I moved it to 9d at idle. It seemed to clear it up some. How much total advance can I run? I think some more initial advance would be good but I don't want too much OA. I have a matchbox dizzy. I could unhook the VA and run more initial advance. Thoughts? We have a speedo problem. Coming home from Zcon he didn't want to run 85mph. I told him we were running about 70. By the time we got home, his speedo would read almost to 100 mph. We took it apart and checked it. Seemed like to grit in the speedo case but it rotated freely. Can I spray some lubricant into the speedo without damaging it? Any other ideas? We took the ends off the 5 spd tranny. Looked pretty good to me. But I didn't see the infamous oil gutter Anybody see any issues? @Captain Obvious, @zKars @Dave WM We started with this for an input shaft I sanded the snout and it looks ok. The pitting is very light and hard to feel except with a finger nail. I could probably remove almost all of it, but I don't want to overly reduce the ID. I had to file and sand each spline after wire wheeling to get it clean enough for this There is this long gutter in the rear case Is there supposed to be a short gutter in the main mounting plate? This is a 280ZX transmission. I don't know the exact year. Is there supposed to be a gasket at either of the mating surfaces. There was only sealant at both transmission halves. Let me know if I need to make any other pics Thanks Guys
  17. Patcon

    Found old Z pictures. I’ll start!

    I like the shape of the door and the side glass, I like the way the rear behind the wheel rises quicker than the stock Z. The A pillars are non existent and wouldn't work. It would look really sharp with a good air dam up front.
  18. Patcon

    Where to go with this rusthole

    The little pitting at the quarter window, I wouldn't worry about. Treat it and just skim coat it. As far as leaving previously painted areas, I agree with Grannyknot, what ever your comfortable with. It makes me nervous to leave it. So I strip it. If it's bonded good and no cracking or bubbling it should be good. That A pillar is a mess. I would send your one but the postage is awful, Zkars might have a donor. A donor makes that repair much easier
  19. Patcon

    Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    As they all should!
  20. Patcon

    New boxes

    I got a new set of drawers for the shop last Friday. I bought these off an auction site. It's a Vidmar cabinet. They are stupid expensive. I was pleased I got them for a decent price. I already have them filled up. It did allow me to spread some tools out from my other tool boxes. It's like the shop, never big enough! I had to do some minor dolly work on some areas. I am going to build a big wooden top for these and use them as the table base. I'll remount my vise to one corner and mount the two grinders on the back edge of the new top
  21. Patcon

    My Throttle Cable Conversion

  22. Patcon

    Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    I have a very similar app and a bluetooth obd reader. I can watch all my 7.3 values in real time. Very cool and very help for diagnosis
  23. Patcon

    Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

    ok, that makes sense I did a little looking. Looks like it might be a hard find. You might could rework one. Under the plating the tube is soldered or brazed in. Heat it and reverse it and have it replated. Not a very cheap way to do it, but it should get you to where you want to be
  24. Patcon

    Cody's Goon

    I will see if I can set up an ammeter measurement with what I have. I watched the needle, it never moved in any of the 4 configurations I will post this in here too. Retro fit repair for a 510 tach using newer parts. This would probably work for a Z tach too, if needed http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/08/tech-how-to-510-factory-tachometer.html

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