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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. Welding is slow work, that's why it costs so much to pay someone to repair a rusty Datsun! You're making good progress!
  2. Maybe the vacuum switch halves are loose. Touching it changes the way the halves meet each other?
  3. I had the same thought about generator
  4. We lost power for part of the day today due to high winds. Worked on an electrical rough in with headlights for part of the day
  5. So we have made some progress. Some of it two steps forward one step back. We got the headliner done but it looks like "Fido's hindend". It fits poorly, is too thick and was coming loose a day or two after we got it home. So we are gonna cut our losses and redo it ourselves. I ordered one and it was supposed to be here Monday but who knows where it is now! He has 3 out of 4 doors on the car and those are mostly assembled and gasketed. Have I stated recently that weather strips suck!! I hate em!! Trying to get them on in the right place and working properly is such a pain! Part of our slow down is I have been hurt for about 3 months now and Cody is working 50 hr weeks and taking classes at night. He gets about 10-12 hours of sleep during the 5 day week. I have a problem that I need some help with. Actually two... I installed the door seals like this. This seemed the intuitive way to do this The first problem is the seals don't close the way I would expect them too. I would expect them to lay down against the body like this but right down the end of the door where the hinges are they tend to bunch up instead of laying down against the body. We can flip the seals out so they lay right but they dont do it on their own. So do other people seals lay properly against the body or just crumple up. They look sealed either way but are harder to close when they crumple up. @zKars @grannyknot The second problem is the rear hatch. I'm not sure how to run the inner hatch seal. I may need to make some better pictures but the seal seems to only fit one way. On 3 sides of the hatch it makes sense. On the bottom, not so much. Either the orientation needs to change or I have to deal with the extra rubber on the seal
  6. You already have at least two other threads with this issue. Why don't you try sticking with those instead of cluttering up the forum. You won't get any better response this way. Maybe less...
  7. Is it me or should the slam panel not be totally flat in that picture?
  8. Yeah, the vin location is weird! Covered in bird guano...
  9. Yup A good tip about cutting at an angle. Remember too, that old truck bed is much thicker than datsun steel. So not as affected by heat or air cooling
  10. That why heat wrap is asbestos!! Proceed with caution...
  11. Also the shape of the S30 Z cars requires that all of the seals on the rear half of the car be in good shape or your gonna get lots of fumes
  12. Love the reflection in the rear valance!!! Thats a hard panel to get that smooth!
  13. Oh, I agree, single stage is the more authentic looking paint but not as forgiving. BC/CC is more forgiving and easier to touch up. I will be running BC/CC on my Z for that and other reasons
  14. I agree with Namerow, and his excellent explanation. If I am understanding the OP correctly, he is talking about removing the lower sections on each side of the engine bay (that we call frame rails). If the car is stripped and not rotten as swiss cheese, there just isn't a lot of weight up there to cause distortion. Floor pans and rocker panels is a different thing. With different tactics...
  15. I would be surprised if any repaint was the same thickness as the factory paint even on bare metal. The first reason being is many people run base clear on their repaint. So you have at least one extra layer of paint. Painters also tend to stack layers of clear so there is room to cut and buff the car. Also most decent painters spend a pretty good amount of time trying to get the car straight and smooth. That means lots of buildable primer and filler which adds thickness really quickly. These cars never had paint stacked on them in the factory like that. It would be interesting to get some readings off of cars like mine (if I ever get it sprayed) or Wheee's or Grannyknot's if it was bare metal to see what our finished paint thickness is
  16. If the upper structure is good and the car is supported properly under the rockers, I dont think I would add any bracing to replace the frame rails
  17. Yes, that is the basic idea. I use a heel dolly to shape them because it has a similar radius to the factory floor pans
  18. I think the bigger the panel and the longer the seam the more chance for problems. Small patches are a great way to learn because they are reasonably forgiving
  19. I agree with the whole rant! I too have found that section of the pin deformed and it takes very little of that to make the pins really hard to get out. That little lock pin is really not designed to be driven in or torqued to silly values...
  20. Charlies floor pans don't have the curves on the inside to match the tranny tunnel. I cut into them until I can shape the petals of the floor pane to match the tunnel. Then I zip screw it in place. I take a cut off wheel or body saw and cut through both layers of metal in one area. That makes it exactly the right size. Tack it and move on. When it's all tacked, dolly it to a nice shape and weld it off
  21. I have found that cooling with an air hose will cause excess shrinkage and warping. It is a technique used by body men to remove dents and oil canning.. Don't get me wrong, I use to do it but I ruined several panels this way and simply let them air cool now. Sometimes I dolly them along the way to prevent the weld bead from warping the panel
  22. I slot the floor pans every 2"s or so on the edge. This allows me to adjust the edge to match the tunnel. Then seam up the slots when it's all tacked in Look at Whee's thread where he's doing floor pans (like page 200 out of 600 )
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