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About HappyZ

  • User Group: Subscribing Member

  • Member ID: 33599

  • Title: HappyZ

  • Content Count: 153

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  • Joined: 03/07/2019

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HappyZ last won the day on May 13 2020

HappyZ had the most liked content!


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  • Occupation
    Retired Air Force

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    7/71 240Z - Need a lot of work, but has good bones. I've have a few British roadsters and this Z, by far, is much better.
    11/71 240Z - Repainted back to original silver. It's gonna be nice when she's done.

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  1. it occurred to me that with the new AC installed I'll need a stronger alternator. I have a Bosch alternator in my other 240Z, so I think I'll swap it into the Z having problems. I also have the plug the connects to the voltage regulator plug. I think that may fix the problem and I need the other alternator anyway. More updates tomorrow.
  2. Thanks guys! A bit of background. I bought the car and only started it once, but couldn’t drive it…transmission and clutch were shot. I put a clean L28 and 5speed in it. The dash has been out since paint as I’m installing a vintage air in it…all of that being done by a local guy (Locked & Loaded in Daytona). The wire harness is mainly on the drivers side floor, but everything is connected. The A/C is almost done, but we didn’t want to put it all back together until we were confident the harness was good. I’ll go thru your emails tomorrow and report back. This the last leg of an 18 month project, so I’m super motivated. thanks again.
  3. If it's not an internally regulated alternator, what could be the problem. I really am stumped, so anything is helpful.
  4. Sorry for the ugly pics and freaky wiring colors, but the PO sprayed the entire car with white paint. The overspray still shows it's ugly self on occasion.
  5. Thanks @SteveJ I'm not sure, but I think it's an original type with a voltage regulator (see pics).
  6. Any help is appreciated... My 240Z starts just fine, but it keeps running after I turn off the key and remove the key. It runs smooth as if I never turned it off. The car does stop when I turn off the key and remove the lead from the alternator. Another thing is I thought 240Z had to have the tachometer connected to run, but I could be wrong. It does run without the tach. I also swapped the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Any help pointing me in a certain direction is appreciated. Ideally, someone that experienced this before.
  7. Thanks. I created a signature block. For other members, you have to turn on the switch in settings to see other members' signature blocks too.
  8. During one of my question threads, someone recommended that I provide my car information with VIN #. Do I just provide that information with every post, or is there somewhere in my profile that I can enter it? I looked at others' posts and don't see it in their profile. I'm good either way, but I'd like to be consistent with what you more experienced folks are doing. thanks
  9. Will do Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Thank you...I’ll look in my spare parts bin...I may have them, but didn’t pay attention to them. Fingers crossed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks [mention=11371]zKars[/mention]! So we’re on the same page. On the inside of the door, where the two bolts come through, there will be a plate welded (on the inside of the door panel). If the plate isn’t there, then I’ll need the baffle. Is that correct? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. I’m reassembling my door latch assembly. On the parts list, attached and highlighted, what is the Door Handle Baffle? I have two 1971 240Zs and neither of them have what looks like the diagram. My guess it is a bracket that goes on the inside of the door to support the handle. Does anyone know what this is?
  13. Thanks for your inputs and links. I have one of each. One with the clock mechanism, with the large hole. The other has the other type spring. At this point, I think I’ll go with the older model and hope the spring does break; it has the correct sized hole in the ball crank for the bushing I have.
  14. @Zed Head do you have any thoughts?
  15. I removed my door latch mechanism and cleaned it up. When I reinstalled it, I realized that it wasn’t functioning smoothly. I pulled it out again and realized that the ball crank bushing was too small. After comparing it to a spare I have, I discovered that the hole in the ball crank (metal cam with hole in the middle) is larger than in the other car. I could install the spare, but it has issues of its own. Does anyone know if the mechanism changed between model years? The pic shows the spare with the smaller hole. I’ll post a comparison photo tomorrow.. If it did change, does anyone know where I can find a larger bushing? Does anyone know where I can find those little nipple type clips that hold the push rods in place? Mine are a bit worn. Lastly, is there a trick to removing those nipple clips? Thanks in advance.
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