wal280z

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wal280z last won the day on September 30 2018

wal280z had the most liked content!

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About wal280z

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    Virginia Beach, Virginia

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    '77 280Z

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  1. You may not need a color version, but ya can't just think about yourself. The need has been shown. Take one for the team and publish a color one already/
  2. @Jeff Berk @Kurbycar32 @SteveJ Since y'all have 260's, and I have a 1977 280 ( which there is an available color diagram ) anyone want to swap cars and titles so i have a NEED to make a color diagram for a 260z? Just a thought. I laugh at my thoughts. Coincidentally, I have a few free days coming up myself. Wayne
  3. @z3beemer Hi Paul, FYI - the links may be dead, but the information is still here, but you'll have an easier time finding it using this work-around The 'old' site prior to the software update in 2015?16? is located at http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php Here is an example of a broken link https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Now, with some 'doctoring' using notepad, you can 'splice the two links together' like this >> http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Here is showing what is deleted (shown in bold red) on each link and delete any remaining spaces.: http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html I am unsure of the work-around for pictures. Once you find the old thread, you can search by title/date/author to find it here if the old site doesn't show the updates to the thread, if any. hope this helps you and others in finding older information. Wayne
  4. @dmuzial, congrats on your purchase. Looks like a very stable starting point. Check out the 1977 wiring diagram now supported by @EuroDat in the download section. It's been through several revisions since posted back in 2004 Wayne
  5. I have my reservations too, and I booked a room yesterday.
  6. @Jeff Berk - I think you got lucky. Somewhere on this site, @zclocks advised against using any oil in the clock mechanism, sorry I can't provide you the direct link to the write up. I'll try using the contact cleaner on my spares. Hopefully zclocks can add his link for all to benefit. Took me a few minutes to find, but here's the link >
  7. @SteveJ - I haven't been following this as intensely as I should, but did you change the tank to a later '75-76 tank for FI applications?
  8. Gotcha. Best to follow @SteveJ advice in post #5. If your fusible link upgrade didn't address any of the factory splices at the 'T' in the harness directly below the original fusible link location, that should remain suspect until verified that all connections are good. Note, when you connect the fuses on your upgrade, and you still don't have power as described - give the 'T' portion of the harness a slight twist. If you hear relays clicking, that's part of your problem. As far as the other gauges - you can check the fuel gauge operation by grounding the yellow wire on the connector that connects to the sending unit connector. (I don't have a 78 FSM, but on the '77, it is shown in detail 'a' on pg BE-94 (dash harness wiring layout).
  9. @tleverett(Emphasis in bold) That's the way I wired my headlight relay power source. It is not the way the factory wired it. Please don't mistake my modification to the way it should be wired.
  10. Appreciate the kudos @SteveJ, but I didn't do the '78 version.. Only the '77 is what I can take credit for. I believe the 1978 version is courtesy of @awolfe, I found this thread >> but I believe @Captain Obvious was kind enough to post that to the download section.
  11. @Captain Obvious - you aren't OCD, are yoU? To add to the conversation - I recall my original lid was a hard plastic - like ABS as Chris describes. My current one is a padded type with about 2" of foam covered with a vinyl type material. I'm too lazy to take apart a functioning part. I mean, who would jump out of a perfectly good airplane? Insanity!!!
  12. wal280z

    76 280Z

    @Zed Head To me, a NON EGR intake = less parts to replace when they go bad. Same logic I use when it comes to under-achieving engines that get turbo treatment from the factory. KISS* principle. Might not be appropriate to current emission laws, but KISS*. *to those just waking up = KISS = Keep It Simple, Stupid
  13. Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution. I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................
  14. What you may find, is upwards to an inch or more from the bare wire connection, there is additional corrosion that won't help your situation down the road. Although I can't find it now, there are (were) some crimp-able type connectors available. That is what the factory used - in some instances, a 4 into 1 using 12-14 AWG. Although bulky, you could use some terminal blocks (2 terminal type) to connect the wires together. Then wrap the crap out of it. Bulky, yes. Serviceable, yes. OEM, no. <<this would be considered a 'BUSH FIX' (sometimes bush fixes become permanent, thanks @Captain Obvious) @SteveJ and others will be able to add better ideas on how to CORRECTLY splice and connect.