wal280z

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wal280z last won the day on September 30 2018

wal280z had the most liked content!

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About wal280z

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    Virginia Beach, Virginia

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    '77 280Z

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  1. Although it's not Saturday night, here is something to lighten the mood... https://ultimateclassicrock.com/social-distancing-songs/ They did miss one... All by myself by Eric Carmen Haven't read through the whole thread to see if this in here, but, S A T U R D A Y Night S A T U R D A Y Night Bay City Rollers...
  2. wal280z

    No heat

    The heat selector appears to be functioning correctly. It appears as though the missing vacuum line is for the recirc / fresh air intake. The vacuum controlled water cokk would be in the closed position, as mentioned previously. Do you have a MIGHTY VAC or similar? Hook up the non-connected vacuum line WITH THE ROUND GROMMET lying on the floorboard to engine vacuum. That should be the source line that would normally be connected to the magnet valves @Captain Obvious has mentioned. Move the mode selector to HEAT or DEFROST. Move the temperature to HOT When vacuum is applied, the small flaps should open (as well as moving the internal flap which directs the airflow over the heater core). Note, the defroster tubes *SHOULD* be connected to the heater box cabin side of those small flaps. Do you feel heat? Download the FSM as suggested, it has a wealth of diagrams to show what flaps are in what position for normal operation. Might need to take another picture on the OTHER side of the heater box.
  3. How are you testing for heat? Turning fan on and moving temperature selector to hot? Note: the heated air is not designed to come out of the vents. In order to get heat, the mode lever of the control unit needs to be in "Bi-Level", "Heat" or "Defrost"
  4. Try clicking on the time stamp of the post you are viewing that you wish to direct someone to. The address bar will indicate a change (viewable on a PC, not sure if it is the same on mobile) $$ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63127-l28-full-rebuild-assembly/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-593183 $$ Even works on old posts - again, click on the time stamp of the post $$ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/11727-77-280z-color-wiring-diagram/?tab=comments#comment-84676 $$ EDIT>> $$ added to links to show in text the link
  5. Question - how many bolts have you removed from the 'horizontal" heat shield? I am assuming by horizontal you mean parallel to the top of the valve cover / parallel to the oil pan.... I was able to 'feel' 6 fasteners - one each under #1, #3, #4 & #6 runner, and two under the main intake - one of the fastener locations can be seen very clearly in Cliff's photo - view an imaginary line from the front - outside of #5 intake, and then draw down to the bottom of the intake. Sorry, no photo editing capabilities to circle it.
  6. Does this mean we are going to see you at ZCon 2020???? 😀
  7. You may not need a color version, but ya can't just think about yourself. The need has been shown. Take one for the team and publish a color one already/
  8. @Jeff Berk @Kurbycar32 @SteveJ Since y'all have 260's, and I have a 1977 280 ( which there is an available color diagram ) anyone want to swap cars and titles so i have a NEED to make a color diagram for a 260z? Just a thought. I laugh at my thoughts. Coincidentally, I have a few free days coming up myself. Wayne
  9. @z3beemer Hi Paul, FYI - the links may be dead, but the information is still here, but you'll have an easier time finding it using this work-around The 'old' site prior to the software update in 2015?16? is located at http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php Here is an example of a broken link https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Now, with some 'doctoring' using notepad, you can 'splice the two links together' like this >> http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Here is showing what is deleted (shown in bold red) on each link and delete any remaining spaces.: http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html I am unsure of the work-around for pictures. Once you find the old thread, you can search by title/date/author to find it here if the old site doesn't show the updates to the thread, if any. hope this helps you and others in finding older information. Wayne
  10. @dmuzial, congrats on your purchase. Looks like a very stable starting point. Check out the 1977 wiring diagram now supported by @EuroDat in the download section. It's been through several revisions since posted back in 2004 Wayne
  11. I have my reservations too, and I booked a room yesterday.
  12. @Jeff Berk - I think you got lucky. Somewhere on this site, @zclocks advised against using any oil in the clock mechanism, sorry I can't provide you the direct link to the write up. I'll try using the contact cleaner on my spares. Hopefully zclocks can add his link for all to benefit. Took me a few minutes to find, but here's the link >
  13. @SteveJ - I haven't been following this as intensely as I should, but did you change the tank to a later '75-76 tank for FI applications?
  14. Gotcha. Best to follow @SteveJ advice in post #5. If your fusible link upgrade didn't address any of the factory splices at the 'T' in the harness directly below the original fusible link location, that should remain suspect until verified that all connections are good. Note, when you connect the fuses on your upgrade, and you still don't have power as described - give the 'T' portion of the harness a slight twist. If you hear relays clicking, that's part of your problem. As far as the other gauges - you can check the fuel gauge operation by grounding the yellow wire on the connector that connects to the sending unit connector. (I don't have a 78 FSM, but on the '77, it is shown in detail 'a' on pg BE-94 (dash harness wiring layout).