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wal280z last won the day on September 30 2018

wal280z had the most liked content!

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About wal280z

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    Virginia Beach, Virginia

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    '77 280Z

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  1. @Jeff Berk - I think you got lucky. Somewhere on this site, @zclocks advised against using any oil in the clock mechanism, sorry I can't provide you the direct link to the write up. I'll try using the contact cleaner on my spares. Hopefully zclocks can add his link for all to benefit. Took me a few minutes to find, but here's the link >
  2. @SteveJ - I haven't been following this as intensely as I should, but did you change the tank to a later '75-76 tank for FI applications?
  3. Gotcha. Best to follow @SteveJ advice in post #5. If your fusible link upgrade didn't address any of the factory splices at the 'T' in the harness directly below the original fusible link location, that should remain suspect until verified that all connections are good. Note, when you connect the fuses on your upgrade, and you still don't have power as described - give the 'T' portion of the harness a slight twist. If you hear relays clicking, that's part of your problem. As far as the other gauges - you can check the fuel gauge operation by grounding the yellow wire on the connector that connects to the sending unit connector. (I don't have a 78 FSM, but on the '77, it is shown in detail 'a' on pg BE-94 (dash harness wiring layout).
  4. @tleverett(Emphasis in bold) That's the way I wired my headlight relay power source. It is not the way the factory wired it. Please don't mistake my modification to the way it should be wired.
  5. Appreciate the kudos @SteveJ, but I didn't do the '78 version.. Only the '77 is what I can take credit for. I believe the 1978 version is courtesy of @awolfe, I found this thread >> but I believe @Captain Obvious was kind enough to post that to the download section.
  6. @Captain Obvious - you aren't OCD, are yoU? To add to the conversation - I recall my original lid was a hard plastic - like ABS as Chris describes. My current one is a padded type with about 2" of foam covered with a vinyl type material. I'm too lazy to take apart a functioning part. I mean, who would jump out of a perfectly good airplane? Insanity!!!
  7. wal280z

    76 280Z

    @Zed Head To me, a NON EGR intake = less parts to replace when they go bad. Same logic I use when it comes to under-achieving engines that get turbo treatment from the factory. KISS* principle. Might not be appropriate to current emission laws, but KISS*. *to those just waking up = KISS = Keep It Simple, Stupid
  8. Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution. I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................
  9. What you may find, is upwards to an inch or more from the bare wire connection, there is additional corrosion that won't help your situation down the road. Although I can't find it now, there are (were) some crimp-able type connectors available. That is what the factory used - in some instances, a 4 into 1 using 12-14 AWG. Although bulky, you could use some terminal blocks (2 terminal type) to connect the wires together. Then wrap the crap out of it. Bulky, yes. Serviceable, yes. OEM, no. <<this would be considered a 'BUSH FIX' (sometimes bush fixes become permanent, thanks @Captain Obvious) @SteveJ and others will be able to add better ideas on how to CORRECTLY splice and connect.
  10. Got the same email - you're closer to it than I am. A day at the junkyard beats a day at work is my saying. Of the 50 Datsun results, about 17 were ZX, 2 were Z, the majority of the rest were pickups, and other compacts, plus 2 300ZX
  11. Found this old gem while accessing the attic... From the Petersen Publishing Group, ISBN 0-8227-5026-0, copyright date of 1978 Shows a full pictorial (8pgs) of the modification of a 240Z to Evel Knievel's custom car (I don't recall it being in any stunts) Not that I like that, but do respect the skills that Carl Green used to 'save' a 240, way back when. I apologize in advance if the pictures are rotated wrong.... @Patcon Also found some very dated body repair / painting publications if you want them
  12. Slim pickin's are getting fewer and fewer now... only 2 '77 280Z's nationwide. I still recall when we would get a S30 every few weeks at the local PNP. Back when gas was $4 a gal. Those were the days...
  13. Been there, done that. And now, confirmation that I was not the only owner with THAT problem. (Sorry about that0 see the thread at >> for some pics of the issue I fought with. Looks better than what I started with. Let me know if you need some additional white / red stripe wire. Got lots from the old harness I pulled out. Mine was green instead of rusty. NOTE: See the electrical tape covering the two wires in the picture? If you have THIS condition here, you may the same condition THERE. Not as bad as the "While I'm there disease" but more of the "Let's prevent another disaster"
  14. Please explain on how the blocks are wrong in the wiring diagram. What diagram are you using? There was much discussion on how the wiring diagrams were messed up regarding the LOCATION of the fusible links on the front fuse block, see the thread by @EuroDat on fusible links. Wayne
  15. wal280z

    76 280Z

    Not seeing any rebar.... Agreed, what intrigues me is the black tubing running parallel to the valve cover, does a 90 degree bend downwards (by the hood latch) through a ???? then under the intake..... I don't have a '76, but THAT is not stock, OEM or whatever you wanna call it. I know you aren't me, and I'm not you, but $5K is just too much for that non-EGR intake...
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