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Reptoid Overlords

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About Reptoid Overlords

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    Seattle, WA

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  1. My friend just moved to the next town north of where I live. I just received this picture from him. Apparently this is across the street from his new house. Looks like I will need to go check out this new house of his. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  2. My mistake.. The idle air adjustment screw is on the throttle body, not the AFM. Apologies if I muddied things up. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  3. If the idle air adjustment screw on the AFM is out of spec, will ambient air temperature affect cold idle? I can't remember what happens when I tighten mine all the way in while the engine is running , but I seem to remember it stalling out. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  4. A KCG10 or Kenmeri Skyline maybe. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk Edit:I`d definitely give up my ZX for either.
  5. No more perfect condition 2015 Toyota Tacoma with 65,000 miles for only $1000 Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks. It's possible then that someone had it apart at some point in it's life, and did not install circlips upon re-assembly, as there was no gasket, just RTV between the diff case and the rear cover.
  7. Is the engine producing any type of smoke out of the exhaust when it's running with the oil cap on?
  8. I pulled the cover of the back of the original differential. I don't see any circlips, or evidence that they grenaded inside. Is it factory RTV in lieu of a gasket on the rear cover? It would make sense, I know Toyota used their FPIG and Honda had its Hondaseal or whatever. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  9. I had a vacuum leak at the intake/exhaust manifold gasket several years back. It caused what seemed like lean misfire symptoms. I sprayed throttle body cleaner along the mating surface of the intake manifold and head with the car running and found that the idle would surge where the throttle body cleaner entered into the intake leak. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  10. I got the halfshafts back from NW driveline. They did great work. Even painted them. I've put everything back together and went on a test run with some mixed city/freeway driving. Don't hear any clicks or any other abnormal noises. The diff whined a bit at first but shut up after a bit of driving. I guess I can move on to other things now. Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction.
  11. I noticed the other day when I removed the old differential that if you spin one side, the other side spins a lot slower than the side you are spinning by hand. Sometimes, it doesn't even spin at all. The spare differential spins the same speed and doesn't stop until you stop spinning it. Also it seems a bit "tighter" than the old one. I haven't got my halfshafts back from the shop yet, but I'm guessing my old differential has some problems. Also, the other side spline came out when I removed the halfshaft. So now both sides have no circlips. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  12. This is all great information, and I will definitely take it all into consideration. I'm honestly leaning towards letting it be for now, but if I do, I'll keep an eye on oil consumption to determine weather or not it's time, and move ahead on my engine build. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  13. I've watched a video of a guy do one on a Miata DOHC 4cyl. Seems legit, but I expect the procedure to be a bit more problematic for lack of a better term. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  14. Maybe the best course of action is to take the head to the machine shop if the price is right? I'll look into it for sure. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk
  15. I have a puff of blue smoke at cold start. Been that way for about a year. The car goes through approximately 1 quart of oil in 3.000 miles(10W30). Per a friend following in another vehicle, there is no smoke under heavy load, and no smoke after high engine vacuum(3500+RPM downhill followed by acceleration). Oil consumption goes down to about half a quart if i use 20W50 instead of 10W30(conventional). High mileage oil with seal conditioners seem to have no effect on cold start smoke or oil consumption. Compression reads in the low 170's evenly across all 6 cylinders with a good tester(high 150's with the Harbor Freight tester, but still even across all 6). Did not perform wet compression test. Gas mileage with EGR delete is around 19 to 20MPG with "normal" acceleration. I have a freshly built L28 on a stand. The head is getting shaved, and I still need to get a few things such as oil pump,water pump etc. But most importantly I have a few big purchases to complete that engine how I want it. Mainly Headers, lightened flywheel, more clutch etc. In other words, It'll be a good while before that engine is ready to go into any car. So I'm faced with making the decision to replace the valve stem seals in the running engine. I could just live with it, and wait for the other engine to be ready, or go ahead and replace the seals. I have a set sitting in the garage i didn't use for the other head. I havent quite made up my mind yet. I don't like knowing it smokes, even a little, but the fact that it's not too bad might just be ok with me. If i decide to replace the seals, what is the proper valve spring compressor tool, and how can I tell if the springs need to be replaced while they are out? Should I just get a set with new retainers and springs and all that just to be safe? I'll admit, removing the cam scares me a bit. But I'm not afraid to do it.
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