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Removing 280z tail housing


AZDatsun

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I Removed the 8 12mm bolts from the tail housing, I also removed the little pin with the c clip. What do I have to do next to separate the tail section? The striker arm now moves out about an inch or 2 inches.

 

 

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IIRC striker rod has to be turned to the extreme CCW (viewed from behind). That will clear out the fork from the shift rods. I assume it has a reverse lockout if you are working on a ZX.

this guy just beats the heck of it, then twist the rear section off to release the striker rod from the shift forks.

 

Edited by Dave WM
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Ok yeah I just beat it off the dowel pins with a rubber mallet now onto second problem. How do I get this bolt out so I can remove the striking rod? I saw in your video the transmission has a port and you could just knock it out. Looks like the 77-78 does not have that port so there is almost no room in there

9fe6ca2a0055ccdb631f2d1056468120.jpg


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ok so no reverse lock out, think your best bet would be to put a nut back on it and just get as small a tapping device as you can find and start in on it. its wedged in but will come out. you maybe able to get some channel locks in there and see if you can squeeze on it the nut (protect the threads) with a socket on the other side for the pin  to press into.

I know its a PITA.

Edited by Dave WM
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I agree. Put the nut back on just enough to cover the top threads. Tap it with a small hammer or similar. If it won't let go, you can try to heat the arm. DON'T heat the threaded bolt (coter pin). It should release easier then.

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I did this last summer and it is very frustrating trying to apply enough force but not damage the bolt. In the end, what worked for me is a combination of what EuroDat and Patcon wrote. I used lots of heat. left the nut on to protect the threads. Tried to avoid heating the bolt and instead direct heat to the fork body. Key though was to use a steel bar resting on the nut so that I could hammer from closer to outside of the housing. I used a 3/8" socket extension with the square side resting on the nut. I would heat and then tap. Eventually, it moved. I bet I worked at it for 2 hours too. Be patient and it will eventually free up. 

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This on on the same list with removing spindle pins as a headache.. you would think there would be a better design.. of course the fsm just says remove striking arm bolt.. I am surprised it doesn’t show a finger just pushing it out. I am giving in and going to try and take it somewhere. At least on the later 5speeds you have a way to get to it via the reverse lockout hole in the case.


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