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About BayAreaZ650

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 33604

  • Rank: EnthuZiast

  • Content Count: 104

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  • Achievement Points: 790

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  • Joined: 03/09/2019

  • Been With Us For: 1004 Days

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EnthuZiast (6/14)

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  1. Hi everyone, The issues (bouncy idle while warming up the car and the Z intermittently bucks during acceleration) hasn’t gone away. I installed a fuel pressure gauge. During idle, I’m getting roughly 39 psi and with the key in the ignition on “on”, it’s at 0 psi. Yesterday, I cleaned the throttle body, afm connector and used rubber gasket to plug a small crack in the tube between the afm and throttle body.
  2. I replaced all the fuel lines on the rail and the Z runs as it should! I just got back from a 20 minute drive. One of the rubber hoses had a pinhole leak and was squirting a decent amount of fuel. I appreciate everyone’s help!
  3. I just pulled the FPR out. There isn’t gas in the vacuum line (vacuum line is dry). Does this mean that the FPR is working?
  4. Thank you for all the replies so far. Here's what I have planned this weekend. - Add an inline fuel pressure gauge. Is it best to add it after the fuel filter? - Clean the ECU connector and AFM - I will be replacing the FPR this weekend as well since I'm redoing some of the old rubber lines in the fuel rail. - Is the EGR valve worth replacing?
  5. I appreciate the replies so far. Here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/H6bVZI4WoxE In the entire video, the gas pedal is pressed to hold 3000 RPMs. Sometimes, the Z drives good but it would start acting like in the video and buck during acceleration. I checked the spark plugs and they were black when this issue was happening 100% of the time. Now it happens roughly 50% of the time and the plugs look better. I did record the mileage and it stayed the same. They didn't work in the engine bay. Where is the ECU located? I cleaned all of the electrical connectors besides the ECU.
  6. I got back my 1977 280z from the body shop a few days back. My Z was there for the past 10 months while they worked on restoring her. When I got the Z back, I noticed that it idled roughly and would take 4 starts to get it going. When driving the Z, it would randomly hesitate when stepping on the gas pedal and it would have trouble holding the RPM’s steady. The Z ran perfectly and was gone through (new spark plugs, injectors, fluids, spark plug wires, timing and valve adjustment, etc) before sending it to the auto body shop. I went through two new tanks of gas, cleaned all the electrical connectors, changed the water temp sensor, fuel filter and put fuel system cleaner in. What could this issue be? in the video, I’m holding the pedal to rev at 3000rpm. I’m not releasing my foot on the pedal when you see it dip to the lower rpm’s. IMG_0668.MOV
  7. I tried this yesterday using brute force and some of the fins that lock the cap unto the wheel broke ?
  8. Hi everyone, i finally completed the suspension upgrade for my Z! Thank you to everyone who gave me advice and tips on the install. Here’s a photo of the Z with 205/60/15. Is there a trick to installing the Konig hubcaps on the front? Id like to add the BRE spoiler and Air Dam. Does the Official BRE spoiler for better than the MSA spoiler with two bolts? Do you guys have a recommendation on where to get the Air Dam with Brake Ducts?
  9. Thank you Zed Head. I’ll be working on it this weekend. I’ll keep you guys up to date.
  10. I found the KYB piston nut laying on the garage floor. I ended up reusing the old piston nut (don't my mistake). Since there is a load on the vehicle, do you guys think i'd be able to unscrew and replace the piston nut without putting the Z on jack stands?
  11. Thank you for the replies. I used a KYB Excel-G shock. I spoke to technical support and they said the shock strut is made of a much harder material than the Nylock nut so hopefully it's just the nut that is stripped.
  12. It took me nearly two weeks but I’m finally finished with the suspension on the Z! I believed I stripped the nut holding in the strut (the one in the middle). It just keeps spinning and it won’t tighten. Is it possible to remove this nut with the car’s weight on it or do I have to remove the whole strut tower again?
  13. I might just install it without it. It would just lower the rear by half an inch.
  14. I just called Nissan Parts Deal and they don’t have it in stock. Thank you though!
  15. That is exactly that piece you linked that I'm after. Where do you think I can get a big o-ring from? It's roughly .70 inches in height.
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