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Found 19 results

  1. Hey all, I did the transistor ignition unit upgrade as described here: Given this though, I have had some problems after doing it. Given that I have a '78 I don't seem to have a resistor below the ignition coil but I think I wired the HEI module in correctly. I think it is correct since it ran for over 6 months, and the last 7 weeks of that was the car being driven daily. On the 7th week though, problems began. The car became slowly harder to start taking longer and longer to crank until it eventually stopped firing all together. I have checked and the car has fuel and air, just no spark. Seeing this, I replaced the HEI. After replacing the HEI the car stumbled as if it would fire and then resumed cranking with no spark. So, have I installed the HEI correctly for a '78 280z? If so, what else could be killing HEI modules when I replace them? I have attached pictures of my module installed:
  2. Hello and thank you taking a look at my issue. I've just finished turbocharging my NA 1978 and have been running into many issues. Firstly, the car will crank for days but never starts, I've narrowed it down now to spark. I have disconnected the transistor ignition unit as it has an e12-80 module and distributor from a 1980 zx, with a new cap, rotor, and aftermarket ignition coil. Verified rotor is spinning. On the ignition module I have C going to Negative post on coil and B going to Positive. I have the Blue/Black wire & Blue wire connected to Negative on the coil, and Black/White connected to Positive. (There's a skinny white/black wire that I have no clue what to do with, can't find anything on it). I also have a wire connected to a post the distributor going to chassis ground (that wire got a little warm while trying to start the car, strange, disconnected and still no start.) The coil is getting 12~VDC at both posts with key at ON, and 0.00 with key at OFF. Any leads would be greatly appreciated, just want to drive this thing again 😔
  3. Hey Team I have spent a lot of time on this forum and i want to say thank you all so much this is an incredible community. I have hit a brick wall and looking for a little help. Background story; I'm helping a friend of mine fix his 280z with 30,000 miles on it all original. Car has been garage kept all its life. Really really well taken care of. Apparently some one A-hole mechanic tried before me and failed miserably and i don't know what he/she messed up or touched. After them the car didn't even start. Fixed that issue. (FACE PALM) ?‍♂️ When you try to start the car it tries to start but never does on its own. If you give it gas than the car starts but it is runs rough(motor shaking). Have to keep the gas paddle pressed in just a little to keep it running. Car smokes white/bluish smoke from the tail pipes. (running rich) ( Gas smell). Changed the oil after the previous Mech worked on it smelled like gas was in it. Did a double flush much better now. Things i did and tested on the entire car: Spark Plugs - New Spark Plugs Wires - New Battery - New Battery Terminals - Cleaned Distributor cap - Cleaned and polished Dizzy - Cleaned and polished Pick Up - Adjusted to correct distance from roller according to 0.08in or 0.2mm Distributor Vacuum - Good Ignition Coil - NEW (built in resisters original ceremic resistor was missing) (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/super_stock/parts/8140C) Fuel Pressure - 22-25psi in when engine is off, while the car is running at low rpm 30psi+ ( 700 to 1k) Smoke test - No leaks AFM - Refurbished still sealed was installed last month AFT Idel screw - Did not mess with Throttle Body Screw - NO EFFECT when turning clock or counter clock Electrical - 12V all over from Body, Engine, - All good Ground Connectors - Clean Coolant Temp Sensor - Ordered Arriving tomorrow (CANT IMAGINE ITS THE REASON) Timing - Seems good 10 degrees of from original zero marking Cylinders Compression Test - 125 + on all Cylinders Injectors connections - look good Injectors - listen to them with stethoscope sound health strong tick HELP!!!? Thank you again for reading. I will be testing tomorrow.
  4. So the electrical saga continues with my z... I have a 1978 280z and it recently developed a tendency to turn itself off when I'm driving. It started with it just turning off when shifting into reverse but has evolved into turning off with the right blinker once (I could hear the a relay in the passenger foot well clicking on and off with the blinker) and also just randomly while driving. Today it died in my neighborhood before i could leave and wouldn't turn back on until I jiggled the main wiring harness around. Because of all of this I suspect two wires shorted together since the turn signals and reverse are on the same circuit and removing the fuse for them fixes the problem but if someone could help me track down where in the harness i should be looking and what wire to the main ignition relay or other relay that would kill the car might cause this.
  5. This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug and Have tested for voltage when the ignition is in "Start" and not just "On". Some troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated since I have already tried to look through the FSM and wiring diagram.
  6. 1978 280z Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with under 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it just isn’t fair to the car. Well maintained, never failed a smog test. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 240z. This car is a joy to drive. When I’m on the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day! Best conversation starter, ever, but you probably know all about that... Will have a price once tune up and general check up done. - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised— as you can see. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has transferred rust stains to well. Next up: service and repair record, or as much as I can lay my hands on. Let me know if need further photos. Thank you for interest and advice!
  7. View Advert 1978 280z for sale 1978 280z, 5 speed transmission Smog certified on April 13th. Has never failed Runs great but needs a number of repairs and general attention. Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with around 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it isn’t fair to the car. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), carpeting, radio and speakers, new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 1976 240z. This car is a joy to drive. On the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day. Best conversation starter, ever—but you probably know all about that... - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised to it as well as regular maintenance. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch, in one wheel well, on two rails (not structural—apologies for ignorance of terminology!), other incidental spots—see photos - Window tinting needs removal and/or replacement - RPM gauge seems stuck. No, I lie, it has repaired itself—as it does - Driver’s side door doesn’t completely latch sometimes (when warmed up). I lock the door when driving but it’s gotta be fixed of course. - Removed several badges when had car stripped and painted but have them. - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has a rusty rim and has transferred rust stains to well. I do not believe the spare wheel well is itself rusting. Have included all the undercarriage rust photos I have but no room left for the rust-less majority. This car is in remarkable shape. And now I’ve organized the renovation receipts I can tell you that They cost about $15K. Maintenance and small repairs takes it beyond $20K... Hence her devastating allure~ Let me know if you’d like further photos or information. Thank you Advertiser A Delory Date 04/15/2019 Price $8,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS30445754
  8. 458 downloads

    1978 280z Factory Service Manual
  9. Hello everyone, new to the club. I'm working on a 1978 280z and this thing has been sitting for years. So to start out I drained the fuel tank and put new fuel in, changed engine oil/ filter, installed new spark plugs & wires. All while I was waiting for a new ignition switch to show up. So once I got the ignition switch installed I started to crank it over trying to get a start. It wouldn't start so I took off the air measuring device and tried some starting fluid. It backfired on me. I verified I had spark at my plugs. I ended up going under the car and checking the voltage at the fuel pump while cranking and I had 0 volts going to the pump itself. Can someone help me out with wiring diagram and or description of up stream components to check from the fuel pump? (relays/fuses) and the location on the vehicle. Thank you all for the help and the add.
  10. My wife learned to drive in this California car back in '78! It is a late 1978 280Z with an oroginal/stock 1979 engine installed by the factory during Datsun's transition to the newer 1979 280ZX body style. My Father in law gifted irt to us back in '85 when we got married and we have driven it on and off in Florida ever since. This car has never seen snow and salt covered roads, but it HAS had it's share of rust! The original, serial# matching power plant still runs great, but the electrical system has seen better days. I replaced the hood, the interior, the alarm & radio as well as several rusted panels and did a complete repaint completed in January of 2013, but quite frankly, I am over it! If you want to complete a wonderful project or just need a great engine this is the car for you.
  11. Year/Model: 1978 280z I recently changed the original fuel pump to a compatible Airtex model. Before the work was done i had power to the fuel pump. After the install i went to start the car and I'm getting no power to the pump. I've chased wire from the pump, up behind the passenger seat, all the way to the fusible link and the battery. I'm thinking the issue MIGHT be the fuel pump relay. Is there any way that it could have been damaged in the process of changing the fuel pump? The first thing i did was disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to eliminate fuel in the lines. I then disconnected the negative terminal of the battery before any work was performed. I know it isn't the wiring of the pump itself. i multimetered the connection behind the passenger seat and no power there. I've looked at the wiring diagram until my eyes crossed. The fuel pump harness that plugs into the fuel pump relay has 4 wires: 2 green, 1 black, 1 white with black stripe. When the harness is plugged into the relay, i have power to one green wire, but not the other green wire which I think should be the hot output wire from the relay (both green wires should be hot when key is in "on" position) Can i be certain that the relay is bad because i'm not getting power to both green wires. Also...the key is in the "on" position while im doing my readings. (on a 1978 triggers the pump on) Before i go and buy an expensive fuel pump relay ($70-$100) i wanted to bounce the situation off all of you knowledgeable Zheads. Thanks in advance for responses its much appreciated!
  12. Does anybody have a spare fuel pump relay for sale? part number 25230-79907 Thanks Shay
  13. My first comment since joining last April. I would like to share some of my experiences owning my Z if I may. I have owned Christine (her nickname) since 1978 and she currently has 176,898 miles under her hood. She is in better health than I am, however I'm pushing 85 1/2 years so she does have an advantage. During the 38 years I have owned her the only mechanical failure has been a water pump which I replaced about 25 years ago. In the process of removing the old pump one of the bolts snapped off inside the head. I installed the new pump minus that one bolt and the pump has never leaked. Within the last two years I had the brake system rebuilt as well as the A/C which still uses R=12 and works great. She still wears her original white paint job and red interior. I replaced the orighinal radio for a stereo/CD unit and recovered the seats. Everything else is original including the dashcover. She has never slept outside except on a trip to Canada. I have owned many automobiles in my lifetime, but never an automobile as reliable, beautiful and fun to drive as Christine. How she got her name? About 15 years ago (yeah its been that long) I took her in for a tuneup and valve adjustment. I was so impressed how she was running I couldn;t wait to get home so I could have my late wife drive her. I backed her in the garage and asked Shirley to come out for a test drive. She was never enamored of the car because she felt the Z was pretty fragile in the event of an accident. I finally got her to come out and the last thing she said before she got in the car was "i really don't want to drive your stupid car!" I half kiddingly told her to be careful with her language because car's have feelings too. Well, she proceeds to turn on the ignition and the car gives off the loudest backfire which just reverberated throughout the garage. Shirley had a white knuckle grip on the steering wheel. She finally let go and bolted out of the car. I got into no small amount of hot water laughing at what had just occurred. She never drove the car after that day and we never spoke of the incident after that day. Christine had never backfired before that day nor has she since. God's truth. From that day on we referred to her as Christine after Stephen King's novel of the same name. Like i am sure all of you, I love my Z. Not only for the precious memories but also because I think they are special automobiles from both a design and well as a mechanical aspect. Thanks for listening. John Petkovich
  14. I know there are similar threads but none that deal with my specific trans and I would really like to be sure before starting. So I've gathered from reading other posts that the transmission should bolt right in but I'm unsure about all of the extra wire ports that seem to be on the 83' trans. Can they be left in connected? And is there anyway I can tell if this transmission is from a turbo or non turbo version (I hear the non turbo is better) any feedback would be great will post a pic if that will help expedite the process
  15. I'm not exactly Captain Jack Sparrow but I am a new Z owner... Found this beauty in TX and am planning on giving it to my son (who is 5 months old) in the future 1978 280Z Black Pearl (color code 638)... I'm the 4th owner... All matching, mostly original... I even have mint condition owners manual, spare, jack, tool kit, and shop book. The thing drove like a champ the 70 miles home (no trailer! w00t w00t)... Super excited!
  16. Sadly, I travel too much and cannot do this myself. My wife of 28 years learned to drive on this 78 1/2 280Z back in '78, making us the original owners. This car originated in Northern Ca and has been with us in S Fl since 1985. We have used it nonstop for many years, but it has been a third car that sees much less use the last 5-8 years. Lots of rust (DUH) but otherwise still great car! Can anyone recommend an honest, reliable, knowledgeable garage/restorer in my neck of the woods who won't want to finance several college educations on my back? I would love to bring it back to (almost) new condition, but I'm NOT looking to enter it in the Concourse D'Elegance!
  17. Hey everyone, I hope all's well with you and your families! My name is Michael from Houston, TX. I've been a member for almost a year now (hard to believe!) and so it's well past time to introduce myself. I first fell in love with the Z car back in 1978 when a drummer I was working with in the U.K. used to take me for rides in his 240z. When he let me get behind the (right-hand) wheel, that was it. A few years later in 1982 I purchased a burgundy 1978 280z 2+2 with a 4-speed transmission. I was partial to the coupe model but liked having the back seat and extra room for my guitars, etc. That was followed by a blue 1978 280z 4-speed coupe which I loved. I later switched to a van (!) in order to transport my band's gear as we were on the road pretty often. However, the thought of getting another Z never left my mind. Over the years, I fondly remembered from time to time how much I loved that 280z. Sometimes I would look at ads on ebay and found myself trying to remember what it was like to sit behind the wheel of a Z. It was like a sweet dream that brings a smile to your face every time you think of it ... sound familiar? Flash forward to early November 2007. One of the secretaries in my office told me one day that she and her boyfriend were working on a 280z. I of course told her that I had owned a couple of 280z's years ago. The subject came up a few more times after that and then ... something clicked. The fever was back. On a lark, I started checking out listings on ebay and cragislist to see what was out there and recall being surprised at how relatively few Z's I found around Texas. As the fever grew, I then began crunching some numbers to see if I could swing something crazy like this. And then I knew - somehow, some way - I was going to get another Z. By late November I found three 280z's for sale on Craigslist. Two in the Dallas area and one around Austin. At that point, the only thing I clearly remembered about Z cars was that you had to remove the fender liner to change the headlights! So I asked the sellers a lot of questions and had them send as many photos as possible. I decided against the Z in Austin and decided to make the trip to Dallas in hopes of returning with one of the 280z's. My first choice was a bronze 1978 5-speed coupe. Second was a green 1977 coupe. I knew that the '78 needed some brake and other work and would need to be towed if I bought it. For some reason I didn't have a real good feeling about the '77. Very early on December 1, 2007, I took a Greyhound bus up to Collin County (north of Dallas) and rented a U-Haul truck with a car trailer. (My Volvo was not heavy enough to pull a trailer with a car on it). I had made arrangements to see the '78 later that morning and drove over with great excitement to see it. When I got there, I found that it was in somewhat rougher condition than I had expected. The body was in pretty good shape except for a few dings and dents. No visible rust. Paint was fair. The interior was dirty and a bit rough. Overall the car just looked neglected. And it had an ugly half dash cap! The engine sounded pretty good but as the owner had told me the brakes were not working well, I didn't try driving it. After checking the car out as well as I knew how, we agreed on a price. Using the parking brake, we loaded the car onto the trailer and I drove away as the proud owner (once again after all those years) of a 280z. When I got home, my brother helped me unload her from the trailer. I then discovered that the brakes worked better than I had thought. It felt so wonderful just to sit in the driver's seat of MY 280z! As the registration was expired, I was a bit reluctant to drive her but later that evening took her for a spin around the neighborhood. I recall my intial surprise at the steering as I had completely forgotten that the S30's don't have power steering! The fever was coming back with a vengeance. Over the next couple of weeks, I took every opportunity I could find to reacquaint myself with Z's in general and learn about my car in particular. This included a few more neighborhood drives. At that point it became clear that I needed to find a good Z mechanic to bring her back to health. I ended up taking her to Kin Chan's shop in Cypress, TX. Kin is the Technical Co-Chairman of the Z Club of Houston and a Z car enthusiast. My intial intention was to have her checked out and restored to proper running condition as a daily driver. As most of you know, however, these projects often take on a life of their own! And so it was with mine. Kin and I often discussed the possibility of a full restoration. As Kin's shop was restoring her to mechanical health, I decided to redo the whole interior and see about having her repainted. We ended up pulling the engine, transmission, wiring harness, etc. and sending her to Master Auto Body & Upholstery in Houston, TX. She is now repainted in the original 301 bronze color. Except for a few hard to find parts, the engine, transmission, etc. are back in the car. While the engine and tranny were out, we had the valves and cylinder head redone, block repainted and a bunch of parts like the intake manifold, valve cover, heat shields, splash guard and various brackets powder coated. Also had the underbody, wheel wells and floors undercoated, the bumpers rechromed, seats recovered and mag wheel covers refinished. There were only a few minor rust spots throughout the car - some small ones in the floorboards, a little under the battery tray and in the windshield channel, and a few small spots by the tailights. There was also a bit of rust forming on the drivers side frame rail that was only visible after the engine had been removed. These were all sand blasted and repaired. The real fun was cleaning and protecting all the connections on the wiring harness and retaping all the places where the old tape was pulling away. New weatherstripping too. Before she went to the body shop, I also replaced the struts, ball joints, tie rods and steering rack. At the same time, we replaced all the bushings with a poly master bushing kit from Energy Suspension. Also replaced the front sway bar bushings, which are not part of the master kit. Later pulled the dash out and took off the half dash cap that was on it. I removed all the gauges, cleaned them, installed brighter bulbs from MSA and put a full dash cover on with a new dash emblem. Also replaced the short insulated duct that goes from the drivers side dash vent to the vent under the dash. Now in the process of locating a few miscellaneous parts such as a new receiver/drier and expansion valve. I got some new replacement stickers/decals for the underside of the hood, air filter housing and radiator. MSA doesn't have the 301 paint code sticker yet, so that will have to come later. Soundproofing, new carpet, re-upholstered seats, new console, door panels, etc. will be going in soon. Once the paint and trim are buffed out and polished, new emblems and side molding will go on and then a set of new tires. Last thing will be a muffler that's closer to the stock design. Last July, I decided that it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use this car as a daily driver. When a friend started asking me to sell him my Volvo 240, I started thinking that it would be fun to have another 280z to use as a daily driver instead of the Volvo. A few weeks later I purchased a burgundy '78 5-speed coupe from a guy near Fort Worth. But that's another story for another time ... for now here are some photos of the bronze '78 coupe at various stages of this project. Back in the saddle indeed!!!!
  18. Hey everyone, The body shop just reinstalled the bumpers on my '78 280z but when I was looking through one of the parts buckets I saw these four parts. Although the bumpers seem to be solidly mounted, I thought some or all of these are part of the bumper mounting system. Either way, can anyone tell me what they are and where they're supposed to go? Thanks! P.S. I thought I'd throw in a couple of photos of the work in progress ...
  19. well finally narrowed it down to where all i need to do is get a new fuel pump. The thing is all i find are electircal fuel pumps and the only mechanical fuel pump i can find is a strange cube looking one. do the not make stock 78 280z fuel pumps anymore or am i just having the hardest luck finding one.
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