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ramsesosirus

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ramsesosirus last won the day on November 6 2017

ramsesosirus had the most liked content!

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About ramsesosirus

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    Active Member

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  • Website
    www.ramsesosirus.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Nebraska
  • Occupation
    Campus Planning and Sustainability (new buildings)

My Cars

  • Interests
    Art, Older and Classic Cars, Fixing cars, Learning things, Ancient History, Politics, Nature, Animals, Figuring stuff out, Helping others fix stuff
  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    Mostly stock 1976 280z. 240z front and rear bumpers. Front spoiler. Turn signal lights relocated to the brake duct holes in the air dam. 240z grille with extra inserts. White face gauges. Transplant engine from 79 280zx (stock intake used). Boiled and cleaned gas tank. NEW: fuel pump, starter, radiator, water pump, wheel cylinders, brake booster, master cylinder, Grant wood wheel, CD player, Speakers in stock location, NOS energy drink bottle, wheels that I've never seen on a Z, dash cover, stock AC (not working), stock automatic Jatco trans, outer tie rods, H4 headlights with relays

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  1. Cant say about the oil, but I've read accessing the fill bolt on our differentials is a real pain. Make sure you can remove/access the fill bolt before draining the old oil
  2. Makes sense. My Z sits in a garage 99% of the time. Thanks for help guys. With my luck, I'll get it to stop leaking just as I careen into the one remaining pothole that hasn't been fixed and bend the wheel and probably get high centered as well haha
  3. Hmmm... that's good to know.... Maybe I should try to clean the wheel and "re mount" the tire instead... and maybe pick up some of that bead sealer stuff shops use. Most stuff I read tells me the fix a flat type stuff is primarily to get you to the tire repair shop, not a "permanent" type thing. EDIT: Watched a few videos about remounting tires. Doesn't seem too tough. The ratchet strap idea is good. Some guys use fire to mount them. I guess tires are one of the last areas I've never done much with, I think I'll try and maybe learn something.... Here's a guy using the fire method: https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/outdoor-projects/how-to/a18991/how-to-set-a-tire-bead-with-fire/ (I should mention I've had over 20 flat tires in my day, so I can change a tire pretty quick if need be. I've also gotten pretty ok with the tire plugs... they work well)
  4. Cool, thanks guys. I think I'll pick up a can of the fix a flat and start with that, but I won't put it in until I'm ready to roll around. I just want to be able to drive it a few times a month really. I did read it's sometimes rust, but they're not steel wheels, aluminum alloy I think.
  5. So I pulled the front right tire off, did the soapy water thing to find the leak, and its actually leaking along the rim. It goes flat in a few days. One guy told me to use the "sealant" with an air compressor? I know slime makes it a mess in the future. I've never used fix a flat or slime. I'm not in a position to buy a new tire right now. When you put a tire on a rim, do you just fill it until it seals with the rim edge, or is there some sort of adhesive etc? Like if it was so flat that it popped off the rim, could you just manhandle it into place while filling it with air? I don't mind filling it a little every month or so to drive it, but it's losing air too quickly now, and will probably go flat over the course of a cruising day.... It seems like all 4 have this problem, as they all lose air slowly, but the other 3 never actually go flat. just a tad low. I'm open for recommendations for what to do, or a brand to use etc. Thanks A road worker told me it will be another month before most of the potholes are fixed, so I have a little time to address this.
  6. I had a rear brake line rust out on my daily driver S10 last fall. I had to buy a tubing bender (just the cheap $10 one), a tubing cutting (around $5), and the double flare tool (about $25). Now you can make any brake line you want. You'll need the right size line and nut. PRACTICE making your double flares on scrap lines first... don't ask how I know... ALSO, in case you read about it, compression fittings ARE NOT for brake lines, even though parts stores sell them as such
  7. Lol, we should have a contest to see which state is the last, Alabama vs. Nebraska... We didn't legalize gambling because the old football coach, Tom Osborne, didn't like it. So we send millions of dollars a year over to Iowa, since they have casinos... Tom doesn't like weed either, so we might be the last state... College football is all we have and all that matters here, apparently. And potholes. Not pot, potholes. We have plenty and they mess you up good.
  8. That's a heck of a nice car to get a deal on. I've never done much body work, but it's amazing what can be fixed by someone with the tools and knowledge. I suppose you could have quite a side business just buying salvage vehicles, fixing them, and reselling them
  9. Huh, that's a good site with lots of parts! Good to know
  10. That is what I thought, they're just "hidden" beneath the cover. That blue Z actually was fixed, according to the guy who put up the youtube video. But it looks like even the quarters got bent.
  11. I've actually seen a few motorcyclists out and about in the past 2 weeks... must have a death wish! Aaaand last Saturday a pothole finally got me.... ruined the tire AND bent the aluminum wheel on my DD S10... and the temp spare was flat... but it seemed fine until I lowered the weight on it... so now I have 3 matching wheels, and 1 87 Monte SS wheel. Oh well...
  12. Cool thanks. Yeah, it's pretty much the only real issue I have with the car right now (of course there are small things always on a 40+ year old car). After I couldn't get the leak to stop, my solution just became not filling the tank completely full... and THIS is why: https://zcarsource.com/rebuilt-280z-gas-tank-sending-unit-for-the-1975-76-datsun-280z The 75-76 one is $250 for a rebuilt one, and you send them your old one. That's why I was looking at an alternative. And yes, 76 does go in from the side of the tank. I wonder if it would be possible to "block" the hole in the tank, and remove the sender completely? My last DD's fuel gauge didn't work, so I went with the tripmeter reset method... until I didn't want to completely fill the tank. I ran out of gas a few times haha.
  13. So will that one you linked to work for a 76 280z? I can only fill my tank about 1/2 or 3/4 full, when the level gets to the sending unit, it drips... I've already tried to epoxy the connections, as well as put on a new o ring and the locking cap. I can just get that one and bend the rod? I'd love to be able to fill up all the way!
  14. Are they really making them without bumpers now? I know for a long time, the actual "bumper" was hidden behind the plastic/urethane cover. At least it was on most of the cars I've worked on. Either way, the likelihood of a Z surviving a mid speed rear end is pretty low...unless it did have the park bench bumpers, and the car behind you's bumper lined up perfectly with the Z's. (One good thing I've noticed around here is that with the killer potholes, people are forced to not tailgate, so they can see the potholes coming) Look at what happened to this nice blue Z that was just restored, then rear ended.... ouch...
  15. I did the same thing on my 76, only I did install some 240z bumpers. I wanted to keep the big bumpers for protection (the 240z bumpers do nothing...), but I've noticed that even with the larger bumpers, the bumpers sit too low and most modern cars on the road would just hit your tail light panel regardless. It would be interesting to see how much the rear bumper really does, or if it is too low. I know that if a large truck (F150 or something) rear ended a Z, no bumper is doing anything.
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