Patcon

I saw this on Copart. It might be rusty considering how the inside of the hood looks. Although the inside looks really good. I posted it as a reference since it has already run. It was $5600 before the auction started. I would have posted it earlier but Cody was getting his wisdom teeth out https://www.copart.com/lot/30378089/

Start with checkkng the rear drums for being properly adjusted and bleed the brakes. Then provide some feedback

There are some close up pictures here, page 4

@JLPurcell I did a little looking but can't lay my hands on one currently

Bad idea to delete all the vents

Tailgaters!!!!

Does he not have a ring compressor? All of the rings need to be checked for end gap in their corresponding bores. This should have already been done before trying to install them. If he hasn't done this then I would take my toys and go home. I would not replace the cam towers. You would be asking for trouble. Make some simple flat block off plates with a gasket under them. Not too hard to do really

The cam towers look to be the early type. You can see the bolts just sticking out. Someone may have been running both the internally oiled cam and the spray bar. You need to block off the cam tower spray bar locations. Also on start up you need to verify that the cam is oiling. Don't assume it feeds oil out all the holes, verify!

What was the purpose of removing the carrier from the diff?

So those stub axles will mate up to the original halfshafts...

What are you using for half shafts?

The last picture is of the cylinder head. Is the mechanic saying there is a tube missing down the right side of the cylinder head? On the later cylinder heads the valve train is oiled from the internally drilled cam. The little holes in the cam lobes. There is no spray bar on the later heads like on the earlier car.

Turbo charged 1.8L making 249 Hp! 236 ft/lbs Neat car but not very Z like in its styling. More like an Audi

So there's 4 separate pieces in the A pillar?

Can you not coat them with a clear coat to prevent them from dulling out on the lip?

Always nice to have confirmation!

I would consider trying to vary the splice location between the different layers at each corner. It would make the repair stronger. Also be sure and preserve the original leaded joint locations. The chassis needs these flex areas to survive

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I would price out the pieces individually. I suspect you could pull it together cheaper and get paid for the time to do it. Use Rockauto for everything you can. they may even have it all

$150 or so is pretty typical of a rebuild service. I saw 7"ers for sale a while back but they were like $250 or so

Yes, congrats on a good trip. That's a good test for whether the car is solid or not

The soft suspension could be a combination of old bushings and old struts. Most of these bushing are available new in rubber from Nissan. Switching to poly bushings can make it too harsh. Some prefer poly Mushy brakes is normally air but could be swelling rubber flexible lines, failing seals or excess adjustment in the rear drums The combo switches can be cleaned and are getting rare. So if the one you have can be repaired all the better

I believe most of the boosters are available reman'd. Although the smaller 7" boosters have a premium. He could also send it to a rebuilder and have it reworked. I have tried sealing that diaphragm in the past and have been unable to get satisfactory results. Harmon Brakes in GA is one possibility. If the OP is really industrious he could rebuild it himself like in the booster rebuild thread. Reman'd boosters normally come unfinished; the boosters from a rebuilder come looking like new

You need to see if the booster will hold a vacuum. A vacuum gauge will be needed to accomplish this. Many fuel pressure gauges will also measure vacuum. It would be easiest to measure on an idling car. Then engine acts as the air pump. Plumb the vacuum gauge between the booster (the black thing on the firewall) and the check valve. Run the car, pull vacuum down and cut the car off. See if the vacuum holds or drops slowly. When master cylinders look like this, they have generally already leaked into the booster. The brake fluid destroys the diaphragm in the booster making it tear. Reconditioned boosters are available from vendors.

I like those washer sprayers. They look great. Are they NOS?