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About Usain_Boat

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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z freshly painted and most of the rust repaired currently runs but very unreliable.

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  1. Update: The wheels are bent in the center and cannot be fixed, so this leads to more questions. I have done the Toyota S12+8 front brake upgrade and have stock fenders with zero plans for flairs. Given this, what wheel size / offset would be recommended for me to be able to just bolt on?
  2. So the one caveat to this whole thing is that the original person that looked at them said they weren't repairable. I'm not sure if it's because they didn't have the tools or if they are literally that bad. I'll just have to have them looked at.
  3. So that's the kind of advice I was looking for, should I just be asking around for a place that straightens wheels?
  4. I've been fighting a wobble in my steering for a while on my '78 280z and took my wheels to be balanced again. One wouldn't balance right so two of the wheels stayed to be looked at by wheel repair man. Now I know that the rear diver side wheel is bent and the front one is bent less badly. I have the 5 slot aluminum wheels that I believe were offered as a dealer option so I'm not exactly what wheel I should be looking to buy. So, if anyone has been through this sort of situation any advice on how to fix the wheels / what wheels I should be looking for to replace mine.
  5. I found one on Amazon that was M12x1.25 and it fit, so all good now.
  6. I recently took off the Castle nut that holds the tie rod to the knuckle and the threads got messed up. I bought a replacement M12x1.25 castle nut but it is too tall for the cotter pin to be used. Does anyone know where I can buy one of the shorter style castle nuts? Or should I just buy a M12x1.25 tap? Here is the new vs. old, as you can see the new is about twice as tall.
  7. Well it's definitely not the prettiest soldering job I've done but it's done and the car runs correctly! I also checked the other splices around it and they were solid but a little corroded so I just put some dialectric grease on them and taped it all back up.
  8. My plan was to look after I fixed this splice. Currently trying to solder the connection but I can't get enough heat into it to flow the solder. All I had was a 15W Radioshack iron so I bought a 100W harbor freight gun (I know not great quality) but I still can't get the whole joint to heat up and flow. I'm using quite a bit of flux too.
  9. Exactly my thought too. The reason it was so intermittent was probably caused by the car jiggling on the road and the resistance on that section causing it to heat up and expand just enough to mask the problem.
  10. That's right below the fusible link blocks where that section meets up with the main section of the harness.
  11. Found the problem! When I cut back the tape the crimp for the white wires for the problem circuit fell apart. What is the best way to repair and recrimp this area? Also notice how much corrosion there is.
  12. I haven't exactly found the problem but narrowed it way down. I jumped the supply side of the fusible link for the trouble circuits to the + on the battery and it has stopped dying. My next step is to unwrap that section of wiring harness and look for the issue.
  13. Around .5 Ohms to ground where my leads have a resistance of .2-.3 Ohms. I understand that I'm losing current just baffled as to where. It stops dying in reverse with the flasher fuse pulled or the reverse switch pulled, yet I have physically traced the reverse circuit and nothing is grounded out. Also even with the reverse circuit disconnected the left tun signal still kills the car.
  14. That ground looks clean to me, no corrosion and good continuity to ground.
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