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Usain_Boat

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About Usain_Boat

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Alabama
  • Occupation
    Student

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z freshly painted and most of the rust repaired currently runs but very unreliable.

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  1. What size lines/fittings and where can I get said items to remake the lines?
  2. I have already done the Kia blower swap and I'm ordering a 280z drier but I noticed the screen filter on the high side going into the evaporator is gone. Is there anyway I can replace it? Also, The low-pressure switch seems to be pretty messed up where can I buy a replacement?
  3. I'm In the process of back together my A/C system and have a few questions. First off, I have the drier that the flare fittings are right next to each other and not offset like the 33286 drier. Since I have this type, can I just use a direr from a 280zx? And if I do will it have the pressure switch? Second, I believe it will be easier in the long run just to use R134a so what all needs to be done to prep for this? I have no clue what the state of the system from my car was because the PO took it apart... Also I went ahead and picked up another full system off of another Z to replace some of the mangled and seized copper tubes.
  4. I took a video and everything in the trans seemed to be working so I removed the O-ring that came with the switch and cleaned the bulb connections in the rear and now it works like it is supposed to. I'm honestly not sure why it wouldn't work before.
  5. Ok, that's what I think as well how can I fix it?
  6. Just tested, there is no continuity when the switch is unplugged and the transmission is in reverse.
  7. I just took it out and pressed the switch and it turns on the reverse lights. What is the next step?
  8. Ok, its been a while but I now have turn signals back. One of the wires going to the reverse switch had broken off and was grounding out and blowing the flasher fuse. I replaced the switch since the wires were so stiff but now I don't have reverse lights. Both the old and new switch look the same and thread in but neither will turn the reverse lights on (I resoldered the old switch just to test). I know the circuit works because eliminating the switch by shorting the connector turns on the lights. My concern now is that the transmission is not hitting the switch. I have replaced the original 4 speed with a 280zx 5 speed but as far as I know the reverse switch is the same.
  9. Thanks for the vinegar tip. Cleaned the contacts in the plugs and now it runs and I even have low beams. I've just lost brake lights, blinkers, and reverse lights now...
  10. Ok, It's fixed! I had a suspicion it was the plugs under the dash in the passenger footwell so I took them apart and reseated them. I also found some corrosion on a plug coolant spilt on while replacing the heater valve so some combination of reseating and cleaning plugs got it running again. While I'm here, what is the best way to clean all the body plugs since you can't really fit sandpaper in the plug?
  11. I have checked a few more things. Unplugging the oil pressure sending unit a cranking as Zed Head suggested does not get power to the fuel pump. Also, I checked while cranking today and neither the fuel pump relay nor the fuel pump control relay has power while cranking and do not "click" as they did when I tested them off of the car. And for the Oil Pressure sending unit's harness the connection marked in red is shorted to ground, is this normal? Also, I have checked my fusible links and they have continuity. That's all that I should be testing for correct?
  12. This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug and Have tested for voltage when the ignition is in "Start" and not just "On". Some troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated since I have already tried to look through the FSM and wiring diagram.
  13. Sorry, I meant that the switch does what is to be expected based on the wiring diagrams. The proper wires have the proper continuity.
  14. So I just traced the low beam ground to both lights and it is conductive all the way. Also, both the dimmer switch and the combo switch have the proper wires switched on when in the position for low beams yet they still don't work. What should I check next? Hazards do work now though but not blinkers. Blinkers work now. I had to take apart the hazard switch and lightly sand the contacts even though it had continuity.
  15. Ok, I will take a look at that. I know of the FSM wiring diagrams but where would I find the one that Zed attached a picture of?
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