AZDatsun

I just use my fuel gauge instead of trusting the light Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree I have done this about 4-5 times I always need to Jack the transmission up to get the right angle and wiggle the engine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We flattened the curve... well someone did Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the same sender from zcardepot and my fuel light doesn’t light up but it never has... The fuel gauge does seem very accurate. Sorry I have added nothing helpful to this topic but I am following with interest. I replaced my bulbs with LEDs and still doesn’t work. I only got it because the last sender didn’t move my gauge needle properly and this fixed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the system working really well here are two videos one is of idle after warmup and another is just accelerating to about 60mph somehow my air temp sensor got messed up on the drive got to figure that one out (edit) figured it out loose wire connection going into the connector need to redo the connector wiring for that. Temp showed correct temp after wiggling the wire Idle [/url] Accelerate

The top two style are on my 78 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To me it sounds like it’s running rich if it was lean it would be backfiring out the intake from my understanding. Did you mess with the distributor timing at all? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any pictures of the install? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The fitment seemed good no complaints there, mine starts at a high idle and then settles down but does take a bit I believe that might be part of the “cold start” value I might try reducing that value also. I noticed it idles at around 1000-1100 until warmed up a bit. One of the downfalls of the ez efi system is you don’t get to edit or even see a lot of the values but I knew this going into it. So it’s hard to know what it’s actually doing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wanted to post my initial settings here that gets the car running pretty well. I am going to try moving fuel to -8 for accel because it’s getting about 8.8 AFR on wide open throttle. Although not sure if will learn that it needs less automatically over time or not. On EFI computer System base fuel pressure; 40psi injector pressure; 19lb/hr @43psi Fuel trim; -6 for accel setting, 0 for cranking, 0 for cold start AFR set to 13.9 at idle, 14.0 at cruise and 12.7 at wot idle set to 800 rpm Engine size 171 rev limit 6000 Throttle body “other” Injector count 6 On Car -I set Fuel Pressure to 29 with vacuum connected and car at idle, I have aeromotive FPR might not apply if you have stock system. -I have my idle speed screw all the way closed on the throttle body. -I set my TPS to about .3 volts set this by adjusting the TPS sensor bracket verify this in the handheld display. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah went for a drive this morning, it isn’t an air leak it’s the IAC I guess after really concentrating I really only here it from off idle to about 15mph after that it’s pretty much covered up by engine noise. The system values range from 5-60 with 60 being fully closed. It seems it gets to 60 pretty quick after you start accelerating. I am just going to ignore it or maybe relocate the IAC into a better area. Thank you for all the help. The car is running great at idle cruise and hwy driving I am very satisfied with the kit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I found out this is called throttle follower the iac opens when you are cruising so you don’t stall when you let off the gas I guess. http:// http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/threads/ez-efi-iac-numbers.20527 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These are all good suggestions I guess I got some more tinker time. Interesting video from FAST when they say open the throttle blades to let more air through if you have annoying hissing how do you open them on the 280z? I have the idle speed control screw but that’s about it. But I don’t get the hissing at idle so I dunno Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it idles steady I am going to check tomorrow after the sealant dries to see if I fixed it. Here is a picture of the setup the IAC is not connected right now in this picture because I just unplugged it for the threads sealant. The only thing I can see in the ez efi screen is the IAC value and I think that’s what step the plunger is on. In order to get the IAC in the green zone I had to close the idle adjust screw all the way down but that seems normal from videos I have seen. The values I have seen when I am driving is around 60 when I am cruising and 5-15 at idle but I will have to look closer at that also Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok that makes sense. I was picturing what happens in the reverse from your description. I closes because it gets all the air from the intake during acceleration and opens during idle to allow more air in. I can hear the noise coming from the IAC when I am outside the car revving it with the throttle linkage not just cruising. So I am am guessing either the IAC plunger is not seating properly or there is a air leak in the threads allowing air to be pulled in. I am going to put some thread sealant on all the threads and check again tomorrow. I for sure pinpointed it directly to the IAC though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk