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About AlbatrossCafe

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    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Issaquah, WA


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    Software Developer

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    1978 280z with L28ET Swap

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  1. AlbatrossCafe

    Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z

    Wow, I LOVE the Khaki interior on that car.
  2. AlbatrossCafe

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Finally added an MSA air dam to the front. It's amazing how much of a difference this makes in the car's appearance. The fit is "OK", but I expected it to be a little wonky since this car is so old. It works well enough. I don't think I will paint it. Gonna get the car painted by the end of winter, so I'll probably just leave it for now out of laziness haha
  3. I have a Fiberglass (recently just sold the urethane one before installing it) Type 1 airdam for my 280z. Of course, it did not come with any hardware. Just looking at it, it seems like I'll need 6 bolts, 6 nuts, and 12 washers. What size bolts did you guys use for hardware? Anyone remember? And I'm assuming I should use stainless?
  4. AlbatrossCafe

    WANTED: 280z 5-speed red shifter knob face

    No thanks, I cleaned up mine a bit, reglued it, and called it good enough.
  5. AlbatrossCafe

    Are these OEM lock pulls? Where to purchase?

    Awesome, thanks guys. I kind of like the chrome-ish look over the black, so I think I will try to find something similar. I assume the process to replace them is pretty simple/obvious? Do I have to take off the entire inner door panel?
  6. AlbatrossCafe

    Are these OEM lock pulls? Where to purchase?

    yeah, these right? https://zcarsource.com/door-lock-pull-240z-260z-280z-70-78-black-new That's all I can find online. That's why I am unsure if mine are OEM...
  7. For a 1978 280z Like title says.. are these OEM? I had one snap off and need to replace. I can't seem to find these anywhere. The ones that MSA or others sell are black and have a Z logo on them.
  8. AlbatrossCafe

    Did I miss something?

    Hot damn that car is sweet! But not $47k sweet!
  9. AlbatrossCafe

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    I'm totally fine with not having to mod the fenders. Just yesterday I cut the fenders on my truck to fit larger tires... it was a terrible experience. Can't imagine doing it on the Z lol. And yeah, I don't want to have to worry about scraping every single time I go into a parking lot or driveway or over a speedbump. Plus, this car is small/low enough already compared to the modern behemoths that are out there!
  10. AlbatrossCafe

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Fit the new wheels on this weekend. Maybe it's because I am only lowered about half an inch, but I didn't have to trim/roll anything for these 225/50/R16's. When near-fully compressed, the tire is still an inch away from the fender. Got it insured through Hagerty (about $330/year) and finally got to take it out driving. This thing is still SO STIFF, so I hope it breaks in a bit more. It's very fun to drive, but it desperately needs a front valence put back onto it, and I need to replace or bolster the seats. My back hurts after like 10 min in that car. They are planks of wood at this point. Pics... Testing clearance:
  11. AlbatrossCafe

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Ended up getting an amsoil filter. It is installed in front of my radiator. Had to remove my oil cooler to actually fit it cus I got the next size up haha. ALSO, after 5 LONG arse MONTHS my new suspension is now 100% INSTALLED! I seriously thought it would never get done. Even on the 10-year old probably-under-inflated stock tires, it is a HUGE improvement compared to what was there before. The short list of stuff I have to complete: Fit my new 225/50 R16 0 offset wheels/tires that are just sitting Alignment Find a good way to mount my boost gauge (adhesive doesn't work on A pillar very well) Figure out what I'm gonna do for the front air dam Insure the thing so I can actually drive it
  12. AlbatrossCafe

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    Update on this: The front in the first post was about +0.25" over stock height. I lowered it to about -0.75" under stock height. After I lowered it this 1 inch, I had no problem at all fitting the end links. Didn't even have to loosen the bottom nut. So it was purely because I was riding a bit too high. No binding in the suspension either. Glad it was an easy fix! Blurry pic, but here is proof:
  13. AlbatrossCafe

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    Thanks for the advice all. I will give everything a shot. Never even knew that "corner balance" was a thing haha. Interestingly enough I found a picture of the stock end-link at what I assume is with the car jacked up (full droop). This is why I got replacements lol. But even here you can see the (worn out) bushings are almost completely compressed.
  14. AlbatrossCafe

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    I got these urethane bushings: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20h03/23-4132 With these end links: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20h03/23-4336 The bushings are pretty stiff. I'd hate to have an end link snap on me or something. Unfortunately I can't work on my car for about 10 days or so (lol) so I won't be able to get a result for you guys for a while. My plan in 10 days is to connect them and test droop levels to make sure the swaybar isn't limiting anything. I bet if I lower my coilovers in front another 3/4" or so like I was planning it will help as well.
  15. AlbatrossCafe

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    Yeah, the bottom of the end link was tightened. I'll try loosening it and jacking up the LCA a bit on both sides to see if I can get it to seat. Good call. TTT has an inner & outer setting for the swaybar end link. Mine is already on the inner setting. I can't imagine who would use the outer one since my arm is already at the minimum track width allowed. Haha interesting... you mean you use a hex bolt instead of the end link? Got a pic?

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