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About youztheclue

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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Oldie, but a goodie.

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  1. I already have the engine back down to the block in 21/2 hrs. its really easy after doing it the first time.
  2. The bolt was snapped already and is the old bolt. I have a fresh one ready to replace it. I milled the head and all that. I just took everything apart. It could be the front cover gasket leaking? I'm not sure, the thing is it my first time with z's and having a project car like this.
  3. I rolled the dice and I lost the bet:(
  4. Okay sorry I need to clear the info up. 3 years ago bought 260z and spent 2 and half year in the garage fixing/correcting/maintenance of the car on a shoe string budget. I had a cruise for STL Z club it made the cruise 100 miles 2 qts oil used. this is a stark contrast to the ~40 miles its driven since I've owned it. Parked in garage and pulled everything off the block. Everything is back together after a couple months, with one thing i know for sure is bad. butttttttttt is it what is causing my oil/coolant mixing? Here's a little picture story, my z is in the back of the group photo the last day it drove.
  5. I rebuilt the head on my 260z. I drove it 100 miles and burned 2 qts of oil. I parked it and started tearing everything apart. I found a snapped head stud in the middle of the block. I couldn't get the bolt out at all so with 13 others how bad can it be?https://youtu.be/Ib9RJ3x2_Rs Please whatever help you can give is tremendous because I don't want to redo what I just did and then also take the engine out and the pistons, rods, and bottom out to give the block to a machine shop. There is 1-2qt from the top of the coolant leaking into the oil only. Not the combustion chamber because the exhaust is fine.
  6. I just put my engine back together and started the engine up. Also all the electrical components are working. So now that I know everything I have is working good I will start updating this with all the notes that I have. Also I will do the same on GitHub.
  7. The mostly OEM harness and the added on wires from: horn, HIDs, LEDs, dual electric fans.
  8. Update on the wiring. I have the whole front engine bay harness unwrapped. It's undone all the way to the firewall. I'm going to remove and add a couple wires, shorten some, replace others. A nice rewrap and the electrical will be good while I create the really nice loom on the bench.
  9. im striping my engine bay now and also trying to learn GitHub which is no easy task. tomorrow i will be stripping back the wiring loom to get and accurate readings.
  10. I just bit the bullet and took the head off the block gonna do a whole top end service and see if that fixes it.
  11. the loose spark plug male tip was on cylinder 6 and 4 i believe and i had a intake vacuum hose open to the rear then to the gas tank filler neck loosely. here are my engine bay pics. the video has the on off i was talking about and also the tire skip from the welded diff.In the first pic you can see the evap charcoal canister that i deleted and add the red caps. Also you can see the second pic the cylinder 6 exhaust doesn't have a bolt, because it was snapped inside the head. it has exhaust sealer goo on it as well as using that to seal the firewall. a VID_20190322_142254Trim.mp4
  12. Sure um I'm going to look into doing that. I've visited GitHub once or twice but never really used it. i linked the git hub after the intro. https://github.com/youztheclue/S30-Spec.git
  13. So I put my car on jack stands and put it in gear. First, second fine. Then third started clunk and fourth made me scared. Crawling under the car it's definitely shaking and clunking in the transmission case:( I add the last .4qt from the flush I did and it quited down and actually lasted 100 miles in one day. It helped a lot but seems it could be the transmission messing with the engine and driving feel. I definitely need someone that's driven old Z around to actually nail this down.
  14. No AFR sensor unfortunately. I'm gonna be buttoning it up today and drive it around again to see if I can pin it down.
  15. My 74 260z has dual Weber 32/36dgav with emissions and mechanical fuel pump delete. Car runs good at idle and on throttle. The problem is cruising around at a constant speed it has a "mis"/bubble spot the it seems a cylinder isn't firing. I have new plugs wires and distributor cap and rotor. I noticed taking off the plugs the NGK caps for the wire connection unscrewed itself from the porcelain.(possible fix) The cylinder 6 has a dark plug but the rest are a dusty clean grey. The cylinder 6 exhaust bolt is snapped in the block and definitely has a leak. Brand new fuel filter put in last week. I also have never owned a carb car before so my tune is iffy and I'm going to look into fixing that, by redoing it the third time to procedure by Weber. Oil pressure is great and steady. The alternator is weak and I believe the regulator is bad now because lights get brighter with rpm. I'm wondering if the electrical fuel pump is affected but the fuel bowl should smooth that issue out. I can hear the fuel pump get faster when the headlights are turned off. Any help with cruising speed would be extremely helpful as I'm going on a drive with my club in STL Saturday.
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