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About CaptainMajestic

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    Austin, Tx

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    1974 260z with an L28

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  1. @Captain Obvious Can confirm I did not let the magic out. Sorry for the late reply, got tied up at work. Turns out @Zed Head was right on the money, I drained the tank + carbs and flushed the lines then added new gas. Started right up! Carb rebuild definitely helped make it start quick! Have you guys ever had issues where when the car is choked it behaves exactly as expected, but when the choke is released the car drops well below it's expected idle? It should be timed, and I thought I did the tuning procedure correctly. Thanks again!
  2. Going to try this tomorrow. Also, at this point anything you guys say to help I take as gospel. Thank you so much!
  3. It just wouldnt start one day. It's pretty hot here in austin so I normally just choke it 1/4 of the way, but choking at 25% 50%, 75% and 100% did nothing. what should I be looking for for bad gas? I recently pulled the tank and flushed it / did a small acetone rinse, but the gas does have a light reddish hue.
  4. Ah yes, forgot to mention I've already tried this. Engine starts up fine for a few seconds and then dies. That's why I think it's the carbs
  5. Hi Everyone, Completely stumped on this one. So my engine was running completely fine since it's first start about a month ago and then suddenly it just stopped working all together. I have spark, I have fuel pressure, and there is fuel in the carb bowls. I figured it's an issue with the carbs so I pulled them and cleaned them up + did the basic rebuild, but still no luck. Pretty sure I set the floats correctly, center shutoff to 0.5" from the machined surface, and power valve pickup 1/32", but when the bowls fill up it goes well above the dot in the viewing window. is this normal? I tried pulling the power valve to service it, but couldnt get it to crack open. Any tips here? Is there any way I can test the functionality of the carb other than trying to start the car? Just want to verify it is mixing fuel with air. Thanks!
  6. Yes indeed! Basically it was a combination of valve lashing and the oil pump install instruction diagram in the FSM not telling you which direction is the front of the engine. I installed the oil pump mostly correctly, but I was one tooth off, and that threw the timing out of wack.
  7. Yup, I double and triple checked it earlier today. Had to rule out beer mistakes
  8. Update: Moved it a tick in that direction. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1c1ooQshVhN17STt6 😄 It seems a bit weird that I have to put the distributor all the way clockwise.
  9. Update, I re-did the valve lashing and now I have compression, about 130 per cylinder (except 6 around 120). Here's what the distributor rotor looks like when I'm at TDC: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFTUHwfnY15yvpQh8 From what I've seen online, it's slightly too far south and should be a tick more in the CW direction. I'm guessing I need to pull the oil pump and tick it back one notch?
  10. Here is what the timing chain looked like when I was done. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jA1uKULRv2WUexB1A Just as an FYI, I'm wiring this up myself and still don't have the oil pressure bit hooked up. I can probably pull the gauge and jerry rig the wiring. I can confirm that I hear a whooshing sound when I turn the engine over by hand. Intake and exhaust should be 0.008" and 0.010" Honestly I cant remember on the distributor. I can always pull it and set it. Does it just need to be at TDC? Or do I have to go through the 400 or so revs to get the black timing gear back on #1?
  11. Hello! What's the easiest way to check for oil pressure? As for disassembling the engine, I removed the head and cleaned everything up + replaced timing, oil pump, and water pump, but I did not go as far as removing the pistons or valves. I did lash the valves when I was done assembling, but it's possible i messed up. All of the plugs have strong spark. SUs are stock flat tops, but I have not rebuilt them. They could be gummed up. How much play should i expect with the distributor rotation, assuming it were perfect, before the engine doesn't start. Is it within a degree or a few degrees?
  12. I did do the valve lashing when I rebuilt the engine, but may be I messed up. Will check and get back to you.
  13. Hi everyone! So over the past year and a half I have torn my 1974 260z with an L28 and flat top carbs down to it's rusty britches and done my best to get her nice and shiny. This is my first project car, so I probably have no idea what i'm talking about. However, I have not been able to get the car to start and I am pretty stumped, even though the car ran when I bought it. FYI, I did disassemble the engine, clean it up, refresh it with new timing stuffs etc, and put it back together citing the FSM almost religiously. I also have been wiring the car myself using the speedway 22 circuit harness + some custom over engineering bits. So far: Brand new battery Engine turns over Spark plugs have spark plugs are 1-5-3-6-2-4 CCW on the distributor, with 1 on the radiator side and on the cap spot with the extra line. fuel pressure somewhere between 4 and 5 psi (my gauge is cheap) https://photos.app.goo.gl/GuQMgZK5M82v27q36 I can get the engine to spit with starter fluid, but won't get past sputtering. My guess is there might be an issue with the carbs, but I have no idea how to proceed with debugging. Also, is it normal to be able to crank over the engine by hand when the spark plugs are in it? I don't remember being able to do this when I first put the engine back together. Thanks!
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