Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'su'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Interior
  • Exterior
  • Electrical
  • Engine & Drivetrain
  • Fuel System
  • Exhaust
  • Body & Paint
  • Suspension & Steering
  • Wheels, Tires & Brakes
  • Z News
  • Technical Articles

Forums

  • CAR TALK
    • Z Cars
    • ZX Cars
    • 510 Cars
    • 240K Skyline Cars
    • Aftermarket
    • Roadster
    • Racing
    • Fairlady
    • History
    • Concepts & Rumors
  • CLASSIC ZCAR CLUB
    • Chatterbox
    • Information Feeds
    • Shop Talk
    • Regional Forums
    • Video Center
    • Technical Articles
    • Club Website
  • SHOPPING
  • NW Arkansas Z Car Club's Discussions
  • Maryland Z Club's Discussions
  • Midwestern Z Club's Z Chat
  • Midwestern Z Club's Classifieds

Calendars

  • Zcar Events and Shows
  • Zcar Club Washington
  • Classic Car Shows

Categories

  • Wiring Diagrams
  • Microfiche
  • Service Documents
  • Brochures
  • Factory Service Manuals
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
  • Manuals
    • Owner Manuals
  • Website Support
  • CAD Files
  • Software Tools
  • Tech Articles

Product Groups

  • Club Merchandise
  • Direct Advertising
  • Club Membership
  • Club Donations

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Z Cars
    • 240z
    • 260z
    • 280z
    • 280zx
    • 300zx
    • 350z
    • 370z
  • Other Models
    • 240k
    • 510
    • Skyline
    • Wagon
    • Trucks
    • Roadster
    • Sedan
  • Other Brands
    • Cars
    • Motorcycles
    • Trucks
    • Pets

Categories

  • For Sale
    • Cars for Sale
    • Parts for Sale
  • Want Ads
    • Cars Wanted
    • Parts Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype ID


Facebook Page


Real Name


Birthday

Between and

Map Location


Occupation


ZCCA Membership ID


About my Cars


Zcar 1 VIN


Zcar 2 VIN


Zcar 3 VIN


Zcar 4 VIN


Zcar 5 VIN

Found 8 results

  1. I am in the process of tuning the round-top SUs on my 71. The first step is to set the idle screw and and jet level. The jet is supposed to be even with the "bridge," the flat part where the piston comes to rest when it is "at rest." This is possible on one of the carbs, but I cannot raise the second jet high enough. It is about a 16th-of-an-inch below being the bridge, I cannot get it to a flush position. Is it possible to loosen the jet jet locking nut and then make a "gross" adjustment so that I will be able to set the jet to flush using the jet adjusting nut? An other way of putting is, if I was rebuilding my carb how would I know where to place the jet before I held it in place with the Jet Locking Nut before I reassembled it and then made adjustments with the Jet Adjusting Nut? In case it helps, here is an image from the web showing the jet in the bridge. Can't tell from this angle if it is flush or not, but this is what I am trying to adjust.
  2. Hi, right now i am in the process of fixing all small issues with my Fairlady. Since you guys already helped me I want to try my luck a second time. I had a look at the vacuum lines and to me they seem to be set up in a weird way. The car is a '78 280Z with a 280ZX engine (L28E F54 block with P79 head) converted to Ztherapy SU carbs and original AC. The engine runs fine apart from a slight fluctuation in idle speed (every 3-5 second it goes up from 800rpm to maybe 840rpm and then back down again). I checked all the FSMs to use the correct terms in my drawing and I added three pictures of the current situation. Especially the wrong plumming of the servo diaphragm and control valve +the missing connection to the carbon canisters vacuum signal line seems odd to me. If i understand the original piping correctly then I would expect that the servo diaphragm is doing nothing in this setup (have to check if it moves during let go of the throttle) and that the carbon canister is only doing its job in 'idle mode' due to the bypass mentioned in the haynes manual (because the valve for the purge line is never opened by the vacuum signal line). Another point is the missing of the EFI specific FCID. The AC is not working at the moment so i don't know if the car runs fine without raising the idle rpm. I wonder if it would make sense to pipe the FCID magnet valve to the control valve to use it as a 'carb FCID'? My overall question to the experts is 'Do i need to be concered about this vacuum setup (do i need the servo diaphragm/carbon canister to do their work) or is this maybe a clever solution?' Thanks in advance for your time and help. Picture 1: Picture 2. Picture 3.
  3. Howdy Yall, I've been driving my Z for a couple weeks, (its too much fun, dont want to drive other cars now). Ran into an issue that I cant seem to get myself out of. I'm getting what appears to be a lean condition on the carbs, the motor will produce a backfire/bog down when running between 2.7-3.5k RPM, and if i get to 40 mph it really drives rough. I parked the car for 2 weeks and have been trying to get a baseline tune on the carbs, based on information that I'm finding on the web, but am a little confused from the information that I'm reading online regarding the float settings: Idle ~6-750RPM @ 20mmhg on the flowmeter apparently for this carb (1970 4-screw), the instruction set that came with the carb rebuild kit states that I should be at 10.38mm on both front and rear carb, online readings indicate that the rear should be configured at ~2mm lower than the front, but the 1970 4-screws have equal length float arms, and the new floats that I got have longer floats needles in the front, while the float needles that came with the carbs are equal length front and rear. When I end up placing a new (aftermarket) float needle into the rear carb, and set it to ~10.38mm FROM THE FLAT PLATE THAT THE FLOAT NEEDLE SITS ON, i end up with a sunk float needle, which leads me to believe that the configuration is incorrect. I think adjusting the float level correctly would be the first thing to do in order to get the mixture configuration correct, does anyone have some input, or maybe some settings that work for their 4-screw? Should I switch the manufacturer for the float needles? Really want to drive it
  4. Hi guys. Wondering if there's any way someone here could help me out with finding a part I'm looking for. I'm currently converting my '73 240z to early SU carbs, and I need to find the long J hook linkage that comes off of the firewall bracket to the rest of the carb assembly. Linkage piece I need is shown in the photos I attached below. Does anyone have one of these or know where I can find one? ZTherapy told me to check around on the forums, and I'm not sure where to find one locally. Thanks in advance for your help! Courtney
  5. These came in a bulk load of parts I picked up a while back. Oval foam type air filters that look to be new but not in the original boxes, for 70 - 72 SU (Hitachi) carburetors. The are similar to the Black Dragon LongFlo style air cleaners found on page 71 of their catalog listed at $39.99 each. Asking $55 shipped (med flat rate box is $13.45) Thanks.
  6. Last night I replaced the choke (cold start) cables for the carburetors. They need to slide freely and after 44 years of usage and most likely never being lubricated since new, it was time. After doing some research I found that 0.055" Piano wire is the best option for replacement as its affordable and able to push and pull, which is required. I also have more than enough left over and only paid $4.60.After disconnecting the cables from the carbs and pulling the center console apart, I removed the cables from inside the cabin, then measured the length needed. I left myself an extra foot before I cut the Piano wire. I bent it around the mounting plate and then lubed it very very very good before fishing it back into the housing and reconnecting. I'm very pleased with the results!Link to Piano Wire used:http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3JQGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
  7. Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube to help diagnose engine problems and tune the carburetors This is a perfect kit for the 260z and 280z owners who want to upgrade to the reliable and high performance round-top carbs. Ready to bolt on and begin using! Professional installation is recommended as fine tuning may be required depending on the condition of your engine, gasoline used, and other variables not related to the carburetors. As with anything that is 43+ years old, these are not perfect but are great performers. This set is being sold as-is for $750, shipped anywhere in the USA. PayPal friendly and ready to ship within 1 business day of payment. More Pictures @ http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html .
  8. Hey gang, I've looked around and didn't see anyone mention this issue about four bolt dome top SU carbs that run horrible after everything else on the engine is correct. Recently bought an early 1970 Series 1 and it's been having really bad stumbling issues when you open the throttle from idle. Timing is dead on, valves are within spec, compression is good on all cylinders, cleaned up the carbs and even swapped out a few bits and pieces from a donor set of carbs. Bushings are in really good shape and there is almost no vacuum loss from the throttle shafts. After tuning the carbs way out of spec I got it running half way decent. Nearly impossible to sync the front and rear carbs without the front being overly rich. Most of the hesitation upon accel was tuned out but it was smelling super rich and power was lacking. Luckily this is our project car so I wasn't driving it anywhere serious. I know I am doing everything right... why is it running like crap. Fast forward several weeks and we are replacing those aftermarket K&N filter cans off the SUs for a stock air cleaner assembly. In the process I start hooking all the hoses back up to stock and discover that the previous owner have rerouted all of the vapor hoses coming off the SU's into a T fitting that basically went nowhere. Hmm, that's weird. Then I start investigating the other vacuum hoses and discover the vacuum port on the front SU isn't connected to anything and the vacuum canister on the dist is connected to the fuel vapor fitting from the gas tank! WTF!!! *Light bulb goes off in head*!! Are you freaking kidding me!? I totally see how I missed this one glaring issue. The hoses went down out of sight and I assumed they were the same hose. DOH!! Needless to say, once the vac port and the canister were correctly joined - I did a 5 min basic tune on the SU's - the 240 purrs like a kitten and has full power through the entire acceleration curve. What do we take away from this experience... If you have a poorly running 240 it might not be the carbs. Make sure to check the vacuum canister is working properly and is receiving vacuum from the vac port on the back of the carb body. I would have saved myself a few weeks of aggravation if I had noticed this from the start.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.