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Found 6 results

  1. 1974 Datsun 260Z View Advert I'm selling my 1974 Datsun 260Z with a 350 Chevy Small Block swap for $11,000 OBO. The engine has an edlebrock carberator and is mated to a turbo 400 transmission. The car gets lots of attention and is fun to drive. There's no rusting of the body or frame (I have pictures if needed). I recently replaced the belt, oil, coolant, thermostat, vacuum advance, wiper motor, and fuel sending unit. I also have an electric fuel pump and full aftermarket sanden air conditioning kit ready to be put into the car. I have some extra parts, literarure, and paperwork for the car that I will give to the next owner. Still have the original sticker for the car. The car also still has its spare tire kit, owners manual, bumpers, and spare. Overall, the car is in very good condition. For other aftermarket parts, it has stiffer coil springs, a smaller steering wheel, a new radio, and new speakers. Please text me at two zero three 8376222 Advertiser AnarchyPerformance Date 01/28/2020 Price $11,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1974 Model 260Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) RLS30-004360  
  2. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I'm selling my 1974 Datsun 260Z with a 350 Chevy Small Block swap for $11,000 OBO. The engine has an edlebrock carberator and is mated to a turbo 400 transmission. The car gets lots of attention and is fun to drive. There's no rusting of the body or frame (I have pictures if needed). I recently replaced the belt, oil, coolant, thermostat, vacuum advance, wiper motor, and fuel sending unit. I also have an electric fuel pump and full aftermarket sanden air conditioning kit ready to be put into the car. I have some extra parts, literarure, and paperwork for the car that I will give to the next owner. Still have the original sticker for the car. The car also still has its spare tire kit, owners manual, bumpers, and spare. Overall, the car is in very good condition. For other aftermarket parts, it has stiffer coil springs, a smaller steering wheel, a new radio, and new speakers. Please text me at two zero three 8376222

    $11,000.00

    Tempe, Arizona - US

  3. Wanted - Datsun z Car (240,260,280) that has been built to SCCA's ITS specs. Will consider a chump car. Car should be running and in decent condition. Having a SCCA log book is a plus. If you have one for sale, please contact me at jimjeanbell@gmail.com. I have a trailer and can pick up. Will pay cash or trade a 510 Datsun 510 ITC race car.
  4. My 1974 260z haa uad some difficulty starting. I read up and found the engine has a reset button so I tried this and it would finally turn over, after i had replaced starter and ignition switch, but every wire in the ignition system got so hot they started to smoke... I'm not going to pretend es and I have any idea what's happening. The car has an electrical points upgrade, and an ignition coil from a 240. Currently not messing with it for fear of burning all my wires completely. Please help!
  5. datsun Z

    NISMO Tech

    From the album: Datsun Z

    2016 NISMO Tech
  6. I have a 1977 280z with running issues. What's wrong is that when I start the car, it cranks over fine and will start fine but after the initial start it will immediately bog down and either die or run on like 3-4 cylinders :sick: It helps tons when I push the AFM in about 25% of the way, but If I let it go on its own the car sputters and bogs down again or dies. With the AFM pushed on full (the top cover is off) I can slowly push the car up to a fairly high rpm, 5000 or so, but I can't seem to do quick revs or the car will backfire even with it in all the way. Here are some of the things I've replaced: -New cap and plug wires (with relatively new plugs; they're NGK, don't worry) -New fuel filter -New seals for the fuel injectors -New fuel regulator -New coil Here are some things I've done: -Cleaned the fuel lines -Set the timing -Tested the fuel pump (It works and puts out about 36 pounds of pressure between the new filter and the rail) -Tried a different ECU and a different AFM (Both came with the car and both give the same results) -I did do a compression test awhile ago and everything was fine, and I should be able to do another compression test tomorrow afternoon -I checked to see if the injectors work by taking them fully out of the car starting it and see them all work correctly -I did check the voltage of the clips going to each of the fuel injectors and those all work fine -I checked the points in the ECU that go to both the AFM and the fuel injectors both also came out fine -I checked the electrics in the AFM itself and everything seems fine (it's also possible to hear the fuel pump working when the AFM is puched in slightly) If anyone has an idea of what might be going on please reply, I feel like by now everything should be working at least sort of correctly. I'm at the point where digging into my pocket and sending it to a mechanics shop or buying a Megasquirt system would be better than wasting anymore time on it. Would maybe replacing the whole AFM do me any good? Could it be a bad sensor sending a bad signal to the ECU? I appreciate anyone's input! ZDrummerGuy is online now Report Post Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
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