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Found 3 results

  1. Teflon suit on - Check Here goes... Ok, first post here and relatively new Z owner (1.5yrs, 260z 2+2 Auto). The car has weber 32/36 conversion with all the smog stuff removed. It runs decently well, but is rich at idle and takes a bit of cranking (6+) to start if it sits longer than 2 days. It doesn't have a lot of power but I don't really know the baseline. The engine runs smooth, and it definitely pulls ok, but I think it's probably in the 75% range of what it could do if tuned properly. It has a resonator and catalytic converter and original exhaust manifold. I recently switch
  2. Hi Everyone, Completely stumped on this one. So my engine was running completely fine since it's first start about a month ago and then suddenly it just stopped working all together. I have spark, I have fuel pressure, and there is fuel in the carb bowls. I figured it's an issue with the carbs so I pulled them and cleaned them up + did the basic rebuild, but still no luck. Pretty sure I set the floats correctly, center shutoff to 0.5" from the machined surface, and power valve pickup 1/32", but when the bowls fill up it goes well above the dot in the viewing window. is this normal
  3. New to the site, I've done a lot of Google but can't find the answer I'm looking for anywhere. Basically I'm rebuilding a california 1973 datsun 240z it has a e88 and p30. As far as I'm aware it hasn't been rebuilt. I purchased some new pistons however these came with no valve reliefs whereas the ones in the engine do have valve reliefs. I'm guessing that the valve reliefs are there for a reason. Maybe due to the 73s having bigger valves? (If I read correctly). I was effectively wondering if there's any chance I could run without valve reliefs. Quite expensive getting h
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