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Found 3 results

  1. Teflon suit on - Check Here goes... Ok, first post here and relatively new Z owner (1.5yrs, 260z 2+2 Auto). The car has weber 32/36 conversion with all the smog stuff removed. It runs decently well, but is rich at idle and takes a bit of cranking (6+) to start if it sits longer than 2 days. It doesn't have a lot of power but I don't really know the baseline. The engine runs smooth, and it definitely pulls ok, but I think it's probably in the 75% range of what it could do if tuned properly. It has a resonator and catalytic converter and original exhaust manifold. I recently switched to non-ethanol and it seems to like that a little bit more, slightly easier cold-starting, a little less missing and oddness. The engine/exhaust note isn't anything I'd brag about and it's more along the lines of a chill cruiser (partly probably reinforced by the auto transmission). Finally, the webers just don't look right in there and I just really love the original look of the SU's with the orange airbox. Sooo... I picked up a few Flat Tops (a NOS front, and a used pair with an airbox) and a refurb kit, thinking I would keep it correct for the year, but without re-configuring all the emissions stuff. I'm looking for some advice here from folks who have experience with the flat tops and don't hate them but that said, I welcome all feedback. My basic question: What's the minimum viable connectivity with the emissions deleted? Do they NEED vacuum? Do they NEED coolant? Do they need the temp control stuff and the anti backfire stuff? Does anyone have or know of good HSM for the 260Z fuel system? The HSM from Xenon is better than nothing, but the scan quality is so low for the fuel system portion it is hard to read. Thanks for all comments and feedback, -j
  2. Hi Everyone, Completely stumped on this one. So my engine was running completely fine since it's first start about a month ago and then suddenly it just stopped working all together. I have spark, I have fuel pressure, and there is fuel in the carb bowls. I figured it's an issue with the carbs so I pulled them and cleaned them up + did the basic rebuild, but still no luck. Pretty sure I set the floats correctly, center shutoff to 0.5" from the machined surface, and power valve pickup 1/32", but when the bowls fill up it goes well above the dot in the viewing window. is this normal? I tried pulling the power valve to service it, but couldnt get it to crack open. Any tips here? Is there any way I can test the functionality of the carb other than trying to start the car? Just want to verify it is mixing fuel with air. Thanks!
  3. New to the site, I've done a lot of Google but can't find the answer I'm looking for anywhere. Basically I'm rebuilding a california 1973 datsun 240z it has a e88 and p30. As far as I'm aware it hasn't been rebuilt. I purchased some new pistons however these came with no valve reliefs whereas the ones in the engine do have valve reliefs. I'm guessing that the valve reliefs are there for a reason. Maybe due to the 73s having bigger valves? (If I read correctly). I was effectively wondering if there's any chance I could run without valve reliefs. Quite expensive getting hold of new pistons here in the UK so thought I'd ask whoever unlikely
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