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  1. Hi all, just wanted to post some status of my trip to Japan. I was able to meet @kats and we took a drive in his Fairlady Z432. Man what a great car! It’s in great shape and Kats knows how to take car of his cars. We met in Kyoto as I arrived, with my family, to our hotel. Kats lives about 30 minutes away from Kyoto and drove the car up just to visit with me. He has 4 Z’s and asked me which one I wanted to see (and drive). Since I’ve never seen a Z432, it was an obvious choice. We spent about 20-30 minutes ogling the car before he let me drive it around the block. I don’t have an international drivers license, so he took the controls and we went for an extended drive around the city. I’ll post more about my observations when I am able to sit down at a computer, but I wanted to share a few pics. What a great time, and I wanted to personally thank Kats for taking time out of his busy schedule to meet with me. As you can see, it’s springtime in japan and the cherry blossoms are in full effect!
  2. I should update the title of this thread to 'Z cars at the Concours and Museums'. My '70 is now on display at the San Diego Auto Museum. They have an exhibit that started Feb 2, 2019 called "Icons, Cars that Drove our Imagination" : https://sdautomuseum.org/exhibit/icons The Roadster is at the Petersen Museum: https://www.petersen.org/1969-datsun-1600-roadster/ Love that free storage!
  3. Got it out in the sunshine for awhile. Wore the flat spots out of the tires.
  4. A much needed cut and buff action. Getting ready for the first car show of the year.
  5. I might be a little bit biased but I think if Nissan put the original 240z design back into production they would sell million of them. Update the suspension, brakes and electronics but leave the exterior exactly as it was.
  6. Hello all, my name is Lee Grimes and I am the Automotive Product Manager for KONI Shocks. I have been working with Greg and Joseph to get these new Z-car parts to market and help answer some questions. He pointed me to this discussion to maybe give some clarity or assistance. I won't be able to stay as a regular contributor but I will be happy to check in for a little bit to help people understand the new parts. A bit over a year ago, Motorsport Auto came to KONI to see if we could revive and modernize our offering for the early 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX. Needless to say we jumped at the chance to offer proper products for these important cars. Off and on through the years KONI has offered the tradtional red painted KONI Special strut inserts with internal (off the car) adjustment for 240Z through 280ZX. In the late '70s-and early '80s KONI also offered an externally adjustable version for these cars excluding the ZX but they were discontinued by the mid-'80s. Now was time for an update. With Motorsport Auto as an exclusive partner stepping up to take full production run volume, we developed and tested new externally rebound adjustable (knob adjustable on the car) yellow painted KONI Sport strut inserts for these cars and a externally adjustable rear shock for the ZX. We started with the external adjustables from the 1980s as the launching point and even used the same part numbers this time with the SPORT suffix in the part numbers. We then updated the internals a bit (it was no slouch to begin with back then though) to more modern seals and guide components and set the valving to work well with either factory stock springs (starting baseline adjustment at or near full soft) or performance lowering springs for perforamnce street, autocross, track day, etc. use (starting baseline adjustment about 1/2-3/4 turn up from full soft setting). Like all KONIs, the adjustment range is about 100% so they are twice as firm at the maximum setting than at the minimum setting. This is a very large range of adjustment so we suggest that you start in the lower end of the range, drive it for a bit to get a feeling for it, and then tune accordingly from there for your ride and handling preference. I think it will be very rare that people will use more than 1 turn (about 50% higher than full soft) for normal use when they are new. Because the adjustment range is so large, it allows you to compensate for wear over extended time, tune it high for an autocross or track day, and then quickly turn it back down for street use. Because the range is so large, it is possible to overdamp the car for your needs and actually make it more harsh and have less grip than needed so do not just turn it way up figuring that "more is always better". Although these could be used for a dedicated track and racing car, their needs and expectations are different and we do have other racing options (e.g. 8610 RACE and 8611 RACE) where street handling and ride quality, high mileage longevity, etc. are no longer important. These new Z-car Sports are targetted to take you from stock Z- car to just shy of all out racing. They carry KONI's limited lifetime warranty against defects and materials to the original purchaser as long as tht person owns the car registerd for street use. Regarding the discussion about bump rubbers, you can use a good condition OE type bump rubber for a Z-car, one of the black urethane ones that Motorsport Auto sells, or the KONI Racing Silastic bump tops made for use on a 22mm piston rod. KONI does not have a specific bump stop length suggestions as different ride heights and springs will determine what length you need. The imporant part is that you have some bump rubber installed to keep the strut or shock from bottoming out internally which can cause internal damage that will cause loss of function and will not be covered under warranty. The first production runs of the fronts and rears for the 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z are currently in-transit from KONI in The Netherlands due in mid-March. The 280ZX fronts are in-transit as well but the 280ZX rear shocks are awaiting final production due to to different compponent sourcing but will be here ASAP. Please be clear that these were specifically developed only for these Z-car applications and they are not crossovers from ome other vehicle. Because these parts are exclusive to Motorsport Auto and no other KONI dealer has access to them, we will not be listing these part numbers on our official KONI websites for North America www.koni-na.com or Europe www.koni.com. If you have any questions, pelase contact our Technical Staff at info@koni-na.com or 859-586-4100 Option 6 from M-F 8-5 Eastern time.
  7. Saturday was Zup's Birthday. Some friends and neighbors stopped by to wish him well. Great food & a very special desert. Happy Birthday Jim! My best friend ever!
  8. Started her up today after new rebuilt head (thanks[mention=6833]MadKaw[/mention]), timing chain,water pump, etc Then shared a car wash with our 18 mo old granddaughter. 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.
  9. Definitely try to press or tap it out. Maybe you'll get lucky and have it come loose pretty easy. I've made my mounts out of aluminum. Stainless would certainly be stronger and would probably hold a polish longer, but the aluminum is so much easier to work with and it polishes up nice enough for me. Here's an aluminum part before polishing. Stock plastic on top and my version on the bottom with surfaces as machined: And here's a part after a little polishing. As good if not better than the original:
  10. I am one of the many Z owners, with SUs, that has battled a lean condition on hard acceleration, or WOT. My idle and cruise AFR readings (have AFM attached to header) are great at 14.5 or so, so have adjusted it as best as i could. Along with SM needles, I adjusted fuel levels and tried to do anything I could think of to resolve this issue, to no avail. I even switched to triple Webers, which allowed me to see how my car could really perform with appropriate AFR! I decided to switch back to SUs, as I had some linkage sticking and fuel dripping that bugged me. So, I started looking into the different available SU needles to see if I could find something richer. I looked at various charts and saw that the SB needle had the same configuration at the top two levels (so idle is the same), and was slightly richer heading down the needle. I thought, let's give it a shot! I could not find anyone locally that provides SB needles, so I went down under to Australia and ordered a set of SB needles from Competition Products for about $40 delivered (less than 2 weeks for delivery). I was stunned at the improvement! My idle and cruise AFR remained around 14.5, but my lean (16 to 17+ AFR) condition at WOT was gone, now hitting around 13.5 AFR!! That is ideal! I cannot believe the difference. My L28 was rebuilt with flat top pistons years ago, but outside of that, there is nothing else outside of the norm. I would strongly recommend this solution to those with similar issues! I strongly urge you to make sure your fuel level (and flow) is appropriate before you go this route, as that can resolve many of the lean issues.
  11. I sure do and I bet I'm not the only one!
  12. I picked up an old, never mounted Kamei front spoiler yesterday, no idea how old it is, seller said it's from the 70's. The card and install instructions look very old but it's in great condition, it even came with stickers!
  13. Thank you for all the tips! We made it back without a hitch! We took all of your recommendations and carefully inspected the Z and also brought tools, spare parts and fluids with us. We were willing to have it transported like some of you mentioned if we had any doubts but it drove really well. The only things we noticed were the following (which we will get to this week hopefully): - Soft suspension - Soft brakes, have to nearly step all the way down on the pedal - The headlight/wiper switch needs to be replaced (Seller gave us back $200 to fix this)'
  14. My Dad told me when he was younger somehow or another they put plugs in the exhaust and made fireballs come out the pipes. My Dad bullshits me a lot though. Pretty funny now that he's 80 and nuttier than a squirrel's turd.
  15. This is another interesting NOS part that I recently acquired. Electric Fuel Pump upgrade.
  16. Thanks to everybody in this thread. All of this discussion has solved an ongoing problem for me where I kept slowly toasting the fusible link for the alternator and fuse block (it was brown) whenever the headlights were on and only when the engine was running. It was driving me crazy until CaptO's picture showed up. I had been blindly going by MSA's diagram and had placed my black link like their example, putting a brown link on the slow roast. I just went down and switched the links to the proper placements. Nothing gets hot anymore! Thanks again!
  17. I just received notice that the shipping label has been prepared. The fun will commence soon. 🙂
  18. You're probably too young for this, but the answer is shift it like Rat Fink: RIP Ed "Big Daddy" Roth: http://www.ratfink.com/
  19. I couldn't agree more grannyknot! I'm not deriding this excellent survivor, what a wonderfully preserved car, but there are a couple of things that I saw, so I will mention them. When I say "original" it is in the context of "correct" for a 240z car with this build date of 1971, not necessarily original TO THIS CAR. The positive cable to the battery does not appear original to me. I could be wrong but I've never seen an original red one---only black. The uniquely shaped and formed terminal end is hidden by the inspection lid in the photos, as a result it is unknown by observation whether it is truly an original red one. The battery hold down is new (you can see the tag) and the battery does not have it's proper cover and cap. Certainly not a big thing, but for $72 grand it would have been nice to see Steve Nixon's reproduction on it with proper disclosure that it is a faithfully correct reproduction. (Steve reproduces the battery terminals also I might add.) Madill, Oklahoma is not too terribly far from where I live in NW Arkansas. Sounds like a road trip in Zilver might be in the offing to see The240zGuild operation first hand. He has offered many nice cars through BringaTrailer and obviously knows his stuff. Possibly he could give me his professional appraisal of Zilver while I am there!
  20. Didn’t have too much time today but got the passenger firewall patch fabbed up .... Cardboard pattern .... Traced onto some 20 ga .... f Rough bends on the brake .... And clamped in place ...
  21. My condolences re: your EFI woes, especially being forced to deal with it by the municipality. Seems a Kafkaesque nightmare. I did sell my 78 EFI setup, but I have a complete one from a 79 ZX (entire manifold, ECU, TB, etc) that’s been gathering dust under my work bench for several years. Let me know if any bits would be helpful. PS: The SU’s are still performing beautifully...
  22. After playing around with my suspension setup and changing my mind a few times as to setting the dial on my adjustable Tokico Illumina struts, I got tired of broken and lost retaining pins for the strut tower covers and decided to fabricate an easy access port for the dial on the top of the rear strut. I used a 2.5" diameter screw cap and "neck" from a juice bottle (hard clear plastic) and adapted it to the strut tower cover. Took about an hour total time (and drinking tons of cranberry juice) but now I can dial in my rear struts as easily as my fronts now.
  23. 6 points
    There are a few threads floating around in the Topics section that deal with refreshing and/or upgrading the Z's Heater system. None of them offer much help for gaskets. Here, for the first time (I think) is a set of printable templates for the full set of gaskets that you'll need to put your 240Z Heater system back together in a factory-equivalent fashion. These templates were developed as part of the work I'm doing on my 1970 240. I know they're good for the 1970-71 cars, I think they're good for the 1972-73 cars, and I believe they might be ok for the 260Z as well. Restoring a 240Z Heater System (gasket templates included) I've debated for some time whether to attempt posting my experiences in restoring the heater system for my 70 Z -- there are already a couple of similar postings in the 240-260-280 Z Topics section on this site. However, none of them really has much to offer in the way of assistance for creating all of the (many) foam gaskets that are required to do the job properly. Since there's been some member interest expressed recently in getting access to templates for these gaskets, I've decided it's time to contribute my efforts as a new installation in the Articles section. I hope they save you some time and effort. Application My experiences (and the photos and templates posted here) come from the work I've been doing in restoring the Interior of my 70 Z. After looking at the Parts Fiche diagrams and part numbers for the 240Z's Heater system, I don't see any change in the main parts throughout the various 240 models (1969 - 1973) -- excepting the Heater Core/Matrix (same dimensions, but the orientation of the inlet/outlet pipes is a bit different). So: everything that appears here should be ok for your 240. If you're working on a 260Z or a 280Z, you'll need to verify whether the gasket shapes are the same or different (the Heater Box changed from an end-plate design to a centre-split design at some point along the way). And if you've got a 280ZX, all bets are off. My heater system was in the, 'rode hard, put away wet' condition when I pulled it out of the car and stripped it down. Fortunately, though, the corrosion was minimal and a pressure test of the heater core performed by my local rad shop showed that it was good to put back in the car (a relief, because the Series 1 heater cores are hard to find). Disassembly Pulling the assemblies apart is pretty self-explanatory. Just remember to take lots of photos and label-and-bag the parts (they look different when you come back to them after a week or two hiatus). Hopefully, your system (unlike mine) won't have shed any of its parts or suffered abuse at the hands of a PO. Heater Control Valve The most likely piece of the system to require replacement will be the Heater Control Valve. Mine was seized. However, a week-long soak in 'CLR' calcium-lime remover loosened things up very nicely. It doesn't appear to leak, either, but I still need to verify that with a proper pressure test. Leaks in this valve are usually down to the small rubber washer that seals around the in-out control rod. If your valve shows signs of leakage from this spot, I'm afraid that the only solution is to going to be the purchase of a complete new valve (pricey, but available from several sources). The little seal for the control rod used to be available from NAPA, but as of 2016 it appears to be NLA. Cleaning and Painting You can (and should) clean out all of the nooks and crannies with compressed air. Strip off all of the old gaskets and clean up the surfaces in preparation for installing new ones. One member has recently reported good experiences from using muriatic acid for this task. Be careful of eyes, skin, and breathing if you try this. And don't even think about doing it indoors or in your garage! (the vapours will corrode every bit of exposed steel in your shop - i.e. all of your tools, parts, and machines). Heater Box -- After you've removed any remaining crud and rust, I recommend painting the inside surfaces with a zinc-rich primer to help stave off any future corrosion. After you finish this job, I think you'll agree that you don't ever want to have to pull this unit out from under the dash again, so an anti-rust treatment makes sense. Make sure that the various airflow control flaps are operating freely and aren't bent. There are two big ones and two little ones. Remember to add a drop of oil to all of the hinges and pivots. When everything looks good mechanically, finish up by painting the outside of the main (metal) housings with a fresh coat of satin-finish black. Carefully mask off any decals before you apply the paint (I think there's just one). Re-Assembly & Gaskets Once again, this is pretty self-explanatory so most of my discussion here applies to the foam gaskets. The pictures here will help to remind you how everything goes back together. I made my gasket templates the hard way (drawn or traced by hand). Once done, I decided that I needed some insurance in case I made a mistake in cutting or during installation, so I tried scanning one of them into a .pdf file using my computer's scanner. A print-out afterwards proved that the .pdf file generated a new paper copy that was 100% accurate in size. That uncertainty removed, I scanned all the rest of the templates to generate a complete* set. The result was a set of digital templates that can be re-used ad infinitum. They're attached here. You can download the entire set, or just the ones you need for your particular job. Here's how to put them to use: Cutting and Applying Most of the gaskets used at the joins for the ducts and housings are very thin. I used 1/8" dressmaker's foam and it seemed to be about right in most cases (1/4" dressmaker's foam might offer a bit more resistance to tears, but it seemed too thick to me). This type of foam is open-cell and quite soft. I'm not sure about its long-term durability for automotive applications, but I suspect that it'll be good for at least five years. It's not easy to work with, though - stretchy and floppy while being handled and, of course, it has no adhesive. I came up with my own solution to this problem, but I've since become aware of a much better alternative! I recommend that you use the 1/16"-thick closed-cell foam that's sold at art supply shops in 8-1/2" x 11" sheets (visit your local Michael's or Joanne's store). This is available in one-sided adhesive form, with a strip-off paper backing sheet. All you need to do, then, is print off the gasket templates and then glue them onto the backing sheet. Presto! You're ready to start cutting. You'll probably need a soft foam for the gasket the seals between the windshield cowl panel and the 'Air Intake Compartment' housing. This gasket needs to be made from closed-cell foam in order to provide an effective water seal. While you can buy sheet neoprene in a 3/16" thickness and you might be able to use it here, I'd be concerned that it may be too hard (durometer) to provide enough compliance for this particular application. Whatever you use, you may need to consider using some kind of sealant for the gasket surface that seats against the cowl. Just make sure that the sealant and the foam that you use are compatible with one another. Do a trial application on a piece of foam scrap before you commit. Let is sit for a few days to see what happens. If you're in a hurry and not too worried about neatness, you can just use scissors to do most of the cutting of the gaskets. Just remember that not all scissors are created equal and a crappy pair of scissors will make for a poor job. I've had very good results using Olfa-brand scissors. If you want to do a tidier job with nice straight edges, though, you'll need to use a steel straight-edge and a razor knife. You'll still need the scissors for the contoured sections and the radiused inside and outside corners. Use a leather-type hole punch to create the bolts holes. This is a tedious but necessary part of the job. I've marked the hole centres and shapes in the templates. Here's a trick that I just learned (once again, after the fact) that will make things go faster and easier: For your backing board, don't use the flat side of a board ('face grain'). Instead, do your punching against the end grain (I used an end-cutting from a piece of pine 2 x 4 held in my bench vise). Punching into the end grain produces a cleaner hole in the foam and it takes a lot less pounding to get the job done Special Gaskets #1 - Heater Box End Plate Unfortunately, you're going to need to make your own template for these gaskets (there are two), because the ones I made were too big to fit on my computer scanner. They're relatively easy to make. Just tip the open end of the Heater Box onto a large sheet of tracing paper and use a pencil to make the outline. After you remove the box from the paper, you'll now need to draw cut lines for the inner and outer edges of the gasket. Do the outer cut line first. Draw it freehand so that it sits inboard of your traced line by about 1/16" - 3/64". Then draw the inner cut line (again, freehand) so that the width of the gasket is about ¼" all the way around. Note that the factory gasket was actually applied around the inside lip of the end plate's joining flange. Good luck trying to replicate that approach with your forty-year-old housing a cover plate. It's easy enough to cut the gasket strip and glue in in place. However, trying to slide the end plate over the end of the heater box without destroying the gasket is another matter altogether (and maybe that's why Nissan changed the Heater Box design later on so that it split down the center and got rid of the removable end plate). My approach was to make gaskets that would form a butt seal. Once cut, I glued these onto the main housing, rather than the end plate. This may not be quite as air-tight as the factory's lip-seal approach, but I think it's going to be pretty close. Feel free to try the lip-seal strategy if you like. Just remember to put on your hair shirt before you try to re-install the end plate. Special Gaskets #2 - Big Air Control Flaps There are two big air control flaps used in the system: the first is the fresh air/recirc control flap (located inside the 'Air Intake Compartment' housing, upstream of the Blower); the second is the vent/defrost control flap (located at the outlet of the Heater Box housing). Each one is operated by one of the control levers on the centre stack fascia. Each flap uses an over-centre, hairpin-type spring to create a 'toggle' action as the flap is moved from one setting to the other. Each of the flaps are finished with a padded-vinyl skin, applied to both sides of the flap. When the car was new, the flaps seated with a nice, reassuring 'thunk'. Unfortunately, after the system gets to be 30 or 40 years old, the padded-vinyl skin begins to deteriorate and peel off, changing the 'thunk' to a 'clang'. To re-create these vinyl-skinned flap liners, I recommend you use 1/4" dressmaker's foam (I ended up using two sheets of 1/8" foam glued together). Buy some thin upholstery vinyl while you're in the store (the flaps are invisible, so colour doesn't matter). Glue the vinyl to the foam (3M 80888 spray adhesive recommended) first, then cut the flap liners to shape. You need to be careful when positioning these liners, so that they seat properly around the entire periphery of the flange and don't foul the return spring that's located on one side. 'Align twice, glue once'. It's not terribly difficult to take the flap assembly apart. This will let you make a better/easier job of cleaning the flap surfaces and it will also let you clean and lube the shaft pivot surfaces. BTW, the little flaps that control the floor vents also have liners fitted. Again, they serve as both an air seal and a cushion (so that the flaps don't clang shut and then rattle and squeak). The foam to use in this location is either 1/8" open-cell foam or 1/16" closed-cell neoprene sheet. I used the former. These gaskets are hard to cut and hard to fit. They have to be cut in order to fit over the directional vanes, etc. and that makes them floppy and hard to handle. At the same time, they need to fit properly or else they won't seat against the adjoining flange on the Heater Box outlet. Special Gaskets #3 - Blower Motor-to-Blower Housing In this case, the gasket(s) function as both an air seal and as a vibration isolator. While the gasket as it came from the factory looks like it was cut as one piece, I found the areas around the three bolt holes to be too narrow to permit punching out the holes without severing the gasket. For that reason, I cut mine as three identical pieces, each representing one-third of the whole. I think it's a good enough seal. Because this gasket also has to provide a cushioning mounting surface for the Blower Motor/Impeller assembly, I used yet another type of foam for the purpose - in this case, it's 3/16" closed-cell, medium-density foam. My feeling is that the 3/16" neoprene sheet might, once again, be a bit too hard (durometer) for the application. My foam had one-sided adhesive with a strip-off protective sheet, so the three pieces were relatively easy to place and secure accurately. If your unit with like mine was, you'll need to replace the four rubber grommets that are used in the Motor/Impeller mounting plate. These are fitted as two pairs - one round pair and one oblong pair. They all have suitably shaped press-in metal liners. Accurate reproduction items are now available from a speciality supplier. The original grommets will probably be hard as a rock and won't be serving their purpose properly. None of the 'rubber softening' formulations that I've tried are even a tiny bit effective (I'd call them 'preservatives' rather than 'softeners'). The last picture here shows my completed Blower assembly. It's been retrofitted with a Honda Civic motor and impeller (more output, less noise, less current draw), complete with a customer-built duct to replicated the motor brush cooling system used on the original Honda setup. I've re-painted everything in satin black to make it look pretty. Now it just needs to have the Nissan wiring connectors added in place of the Honda items. I'm still toying with the idea of adding an 'intermittent' setting for the controls. Special Gaskets #4 - Centre Front Ventilator Duct Here's another place where the foam isn't actually acting as a gasket. In this case, the factory lined the inside surfaces of the metal duct outlet with thin, open-cell foam in order to reduce airflow noise. I can't say how well this actually works (you'd need to try 'with' and 'without' to really know). However, the set of templates includes the pieces needed to re-create this liner. It's finicky work to get this done right. You'll need to use 1/8" dressmaker's (open-cell) foam for it to work (the closed-cell neoprene foam won't offer any quietening effect). Excessive gaps or steps between the foam pieces make un-do the intended purpose of the lining, so you need to be careful here. Also, poor cutting or gluing could cause the foam to foul the rotating, chromed directional-vane piece. Special Gaskets #5 - Heater Core Pads Most of these aren't really gaskets, of course. They're pads glued to the heater core to keep it from generating squeaks and rattles after it's slid into position inside the Heater Box. There are end pads applied to both the left and right header tanks. The factory put a long central pad along the centre part of the left (driver's side) header tank. I don't think it's necessary because the header tank is indented there and there's no potential for metal-to-metal content. I just used the little pads located at either end of the tank. I glued these to the wall of the Heater Box, rather than gluing them to the header tank. There are also vinyl skinned pads that act as sleeves around the Heater core's supply and return pipes. These actually do function as gaskets, hence the vinyl skin (which acts as a seal against the removable end plate of the Heater Box). In all cases here, the factory used soft, open-cell foam. The re-create this, I found some inexpensive kitchen sponges purchased from the local Dollar Store that were about right. These had to be cut to shape. I marked off the cut lines with a pen and then used a hooked razor knife to make the cuts. The vinyl skin for the supply/return line sleeves is best glued to the foam after you've done your cutting (the thick foam squirms a lot when it's being cut, and it's hard to cleanly cut through both the thick foam and the vinyl in one shot). I did, however, make the holes after the vinyl had been glued in place. I didn't have a ready-made leather punch big enough to make these rather large holes, so I made one from a lamp fixture found in my odds-and-ends drawer (the cutting edge was made with a file after I'd chucked the piece into my drill press). Here's a place where my new-found knowledge about punching into the end grain of the wood backing piece would have made for a better and easier job (notice the blunt impressions made in the wood after pounding against the face grain). General Suggestions Depending on how much wastage you can tolerate, it will be more economical if you nest the gasket templates into groups, so as to make maximum use of each 8-1/2 x 11" sheet of neoprene. See photos for illustrations of how I did this. I've found that this closed-cell neoprene responds remarkably well to cyanoacrylate glue ('super glue'). The big gaskets for the Heater Box End Plate can are too big to be cut as single pieces from an 8-1/2 x 11" sheet, so they have to each be made from 2 pieces joined together. You can - if you want - glue the pieces together with butt joins before installing as a single piece on the housing. Or, you can just glue them in place one after the other (easier). Try to keep the gaps at the cut ends as small as possible. As I mentioned at the outset, this is a long and tedious job. The picture of the mess I had left behind tells part of the story. Having my templates available will certainly remove a lot of the challenges. For the locations where all that's needed is a joint seal, you can - arguably - get the same functional result by just using adhesive-backed foam strip purchased in a roll from the hardware store. You could even try using silicone caulking as a replacement for cut-foam gaskets. Neither of these approaches will help you for the flaps, the acoustic lining, and the Heater Core pads and sleeves. You'll have to decide what works best to meet your personal objectives for your project. Namerow Burlington, Ontario May 2016
  24. I don't think 'Lstepp4re' should be too high on your list of Experten... You have world-class 'Z Store'/'Vintage Z Program' knowledge at your service right here on the classiczcars forum, and indeed already on this thread, in the form of our fellow member '26th-Z'. He compiled and privately published what most consider to be the definitive written work on the subject, and I'm sure he would be happy to answer any questions you put to him. If he doesn't have the answer - and he usually will - then he will know who to ask.
  25. Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of lateral play in the shaft allows it to expand or contract almost three inches. ...on to the pics! First a shot of the shafts after I ran one through the media cabinet next to the other. The removal of the u-joints is straight forward, several well documented methods on line if you need help there. Now the science! Here you can see that the axles are identical in each dimension. Also note the layout of the snap rings, retaining rings and the balls and spacers. And for those that were still disbelieving, a shot of a 240 half-shaft next to the 280 half-shaft. 240 shaft with the u-joint still attached. Then on to refurbishing! You will need 4 new u-joints. SKF UJ393, MOOG 393, or Precision 393 will all work or any variation thereof. I media blasted the shafts and protected the bearing surfaces while doing so. I then painted the exposed parts in Cast Iron engine paint from Duplicolor. Love the look! I re-used the old boots as they were in great shape. After blasting the shafts and painting them, I turned the boots inside out and fed the wide side over the bearing shaft. I used the cut-off top of a funnel to aid the narrow end going over the shaft and up into position. Worked excellent. Leave the boot inside out for now. Slide the upper retaining ring and snap ring on to hold the shafts together, tuck them up by the boot. Refer to the above pic for proper order. Attach the lower retaining ring and snap ring. Put the cleaned spacers and bearings into a zip lock bag full of a good quality bearing grease and ensure they are coated nicely all around. Place them in the channels in the correct order, ball bearing at the bottom, spacer at the top. The grease will keep them in place. Add about 10g of grease to the top of each channel. Carefully slide the shaft back into the axle while ensuring the ball bearing and spacers are supported by the retaining tabs. Make sure the shaft is orientated correctly, the same direction as the axle end! Try and keep the bearings at the bottom of the assembly as it goes together. Holding it vertical helps. When the shaft is in the axle, add another 30g of grease to the top of the shaft, concentrating on the open groves of the axle that did not receive the bearings. Use the retaining ring to push it all together and seat the bearings. I used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the retaining ring flat. Worked great, didn't need much pressure. Reattach the snap ring to the axle at the top. Wipe up the grease you got everywhere... and pull the boot back down outside-in , ensuring the top fully inverts and seats in the groove, same as the bottom. Attach your favourite brand of cv boot clamp over the boot ends and securely tightly. Mine had not arrived in time for the pictures. Proceed on to installing the u-joints, being careful not to damage the pretty paint! Grease the u-joints and you are done! Another 40 years of glorious torque! Thanks to Jim @zKars for his guidance and wisdom.
  26. My test drive last night, 10 minute test drive turned into a 1 hour cruse! I forget how much fun this car is to drive over the winter months.
  27. I'm hoping to be Mr. Roomba. Just charge me up and let me go! Dennis
  28. Bought a parts Sept 1970 240z to help with #147 resto. Seems to have early radio and antenna switch. Fingers crossed on the 2400 Valve Cover. I have not seen the engine yet and Sept is the final month of the 2400 cover.
  29. Dan - Here's the update on the Molotow Chrome Pens: I thoroughly cleaned the lettering area at the top left with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, most of the silver Sharpie and any prior chrome came off. Used the 1mm pen to cover the text. Cleaned the rest of the plate - note the silver Sharpie did not come off the long lines. Finished the text at top right with the 1mm pen and the long lines with the 2mm pen. I'm well pleased with the outcome - a very shiny chrome finish. I highly recommend this product, will be using it to update other areas in my car! Jim
  30. Just drove it! Got a ignition problem fixed and made a club run with a local car club
  31. The package arrived today. I had to unbox it to take photos.
  32. That's not likely a dealer warranty tag. Most likely "Big Eddie" was a mechanic with a strong sense of complete disclosure who went to a lot of trouble to document an engine swap for the then current and all subsequent owners. Note that he installed the tag on the firewall over the factory stamping of the VIN and made no attempt to replicate the OE tag. Good job "Big Eddie"!!!
  33. So after some hammer and dolly work the backer plate was re-aligned .... It didn’t look too bad but some of the rust pitting actually went all the way through once I started grinding so ...Plan B again.... _ It’s not perfect but it’s reasonably close. I probably could have just patched the holes on the original plate. I did a couple of mods to Big Bertha last week and wanted to try her out so ... Bertha got rewired with a proper bi-directional toggle switch and a deadman foot peddle so both hands are completely free to control the work piece ... So basically just need to weld her all up ...
  34. Isn't THAT the truth! You-know, I have two toolboxes and a whole slew of service tools. Lord knows what I'm going to do with all that. Some time ago, Kats was looking for a particular service tool and I took mine down to a machine shop and had copies made. I deserve a 12-step program!
  35. The good thing about forums like ours -- We have the research, historical data, and the experience to help! I saw this photo and thought I would share.
  36. Some pics of the engine going together
  37. For anyone who hasn't seen a 69 crankshaft here it is next to a standard 240 crank
  38. I'm trying to pick up myself. What you didn't see was the one behind me. Not as good shape but still a decent car. This one is an automatic early Gen. The current owner owns the Nissan dealer in the area. The car has been stitting in the backlot for about 10 years from what I understand. A friend of mine knows the General Manager, so I am woking through it. Its probably going to b a long process, with much persistence on my part.
  39. Hi everyone here's pictures of the tear down and the car being shipped off to Miguel's:
  40. Back to the topic.... I got the block cleaned up and painted tonight. The oil pan needs to be done still and a few other things, but I thought it was as a good a time as any to slap it together for some motivation! As soon as the coil on plug units arrive, I can start mocking up the aluminum support for the spark plugs and coils. I think the cast iron paint will be a nice subtle touch in the engine bay along with the shiny black, chrome and red bits.
  41. Thanks Zup for coming through with a door......awesome folks on this site! I’ll start a thread for this project next week. It ought to be fun! Thanks again Zup for going out of your way to help a fellow member. Guy
  42. My my my how the world turns. Before I carried Zup's "pay it forward" mirror assembly to get the glass removed for installation into my car's housing I stopped by my local Nissan dealership to ask what he thought. The parts manager has taken me in like a bastard child of his. He looked up the mirror and wrote down the part number. Said they had 23 in Memphis if I broke Zup's and needed one, $115 plus tax was my price. I declined and he suggested the same glass shop I was going to use for the removal. They still have it. I just got a call from the parts guy, somehow he mistakenly ordered a mirror. Said he wrote down the P/N on his order pad and at the end of the day it got ordered. So now he has a brand new mirror assembly but if he sends it back he has to pay a restocking fee which we don't need to do. He's taken good care of me over the past few years for parts on my old Zs. I told him to keep it, I would buy it to keep the owner off our arse. $90 plus tax. I'll put the new one on when I fix the lock so I can go to see Arkansas's Jims at Chunkey Monkey's in Branson.
  43. Good work, I also like experimenting with different refinishing techniques, I have had some success with sanding lenses down and then lightly buffing on a wheel but it is SO easy to melt the plastic that I've stopped that and use compound polish now, much safer. I'm will try the clear coat method now, SEM has a very good clear. For rubber refinishing I use a Grey 3M Scotch pad until all the hard oxcidized rubber is removed and the surface has a flat appearence then a couple of coats of AutoGlim tire dressing.
  44. When I got my car the engine hadn’t run in 18 yrs. It was locked up big time. I pulled the plugs and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit 24 hrs. Tried to hand crank it was only moving a small amount. I cycled the wrench on the cam bolt turning it both CW then CCW. It would move on a few inches. Poured more in and let it sit another 24hrs and the next day it hand cranked right over. I also put assembly lube on the cam lobes before cranking with starter. She runs fine now and compression is in the normal range. So don’t be rushed...take it slow and work it back and fourth over time or you risk damaging something in there like a piston ring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  45. Thanks Gavin , it could be AU market car . Does AU market car have a set of “ lowered coil springs “ like Euro cars ? The car looks slightly lowered at front , the gap between the tire and the fender .Optional item chosen ? This morning I took my 240ZG as a commuter to an airport. In a cold rain dawn , but comfortable cabin . Kats
  46. @outlawswine A small thing, many of these threads get broken links in them months or years later when the pictures are no longer hosted where ever (photobucket sucks) If you upload them to the site. The administrators will make sure they last and others can learn from these threads with the pictures still present...
  47. 5 points

    From the album: Georgia Z Club

    The owner of this private garage was nice enough to let our club have a photo shoot on his property. We had over 40 cars show up with every generation of Z on hand. The garage's owner had a 73 240Z back in the day. After letting us do the photo shoot, he's interested in getting back in the game. An S30 would look nice with the rest of his great collection of cars.