Namerow

This vendor sells authentic jute... www.the-roadster-factory.com

@Mike This is the third comment I've received recently to say that the gasket templates won't download. Would you mind checking the links, please?

i could be wrong, but I don't think that the Eastwood internal frame coating product had been introduced at the time when the magazine started their comparison test.

This should generate some lively discussion... Most of us have tried a variety of rust-prevention products. If you're like me, you've found that some don't quite live up to expectations. Many swear by a particular product, but I often wonder if their allegiance is tied to subconsciously defending the choice they made. There are lot of manufacturer's claims published and a lot of one-use testimonials, but not much in the way solid comparative date to back them up. Back in 2011, 'Classics Monthly' -- one of England's leading auto restoration publications -- began a test of a group of the leading, over-the-counter rust prevention products. The test lasted for three years. The products were split into two categories: 1) those for pre-paint treatment of exterior surfaces, and; 2) those for treatment of concealed internal surfaces (door cavities, frame rails, rocker sills, etc). The results were quite interesting... https://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk_0.pdf

Typical Honda issues, IMO: Superb engineering, accompanied by indifferent exterior and interior styling. The NSX seems to draw the same reaction.

Ow. Ow. Ow. That couldn't have been a good moment (looks like something I would do). How well did the rail respond to the slide hammer? Did you have to use any heat to get the metal to shift?

This is the other end of S30 reality. For every $40K car helping to set the upper end of the pricing envelope, there's a couple of these that keep the bottom end firmly anchored at $500 (aka, 'Asking $1200'). This car is located about 45 minutes from Grannyknot, so perhaps we'll see it showing up in his driveway soon? p.s. I, too, noticed the 'L0L' postal code. I wonder if the seller will get the joke?

If I understand the loads here, the staking on the collar is used simply to retain the head on the shaft as the shaft retracts. Not much loading on the ends of the pins (or the staked dimples). Interference fit, LocTite, or both. Anyway, my idea was offered as 'a possible alternative', rather than, 'a better solution'. I look forward to seeing the DIY staking machine that you are trying to come up with.

Your uncle was a very cool guy. These days, the high-dollar car afficianados wet their pants over the Bonneville Speed Week experience and the guys that make it happen. Your uncle was there. This is probably the only picture in existence of a Z on the salt flats. Thanks for posting.

Kudos for three of the best pictures I've seen that show the challenge of repairing the Z dogleg. This seems to be the single most important and consistent repair area for a Z and yet no one manufactures a repair panel kit to address the problem. If these were Alfas or Porsches, someone would be making the kit. Disepsyon is a very talented guy, but he's not interested in making 100+ repair kits. We really need someone like MSA or ZCar Depot to step up here.

Thinking out loud here (always dangerous, I know). Instead of the factory strategy of staking the part, is there enough wall thickness to take three short pins? Dress the ends to make them round-ish. Drill the holes for a close fit (Loc-tite) or a light interference fit. The pins wouldn't be subjected to much in the way of long-axis loading. Just 'wobble' loading.

@katsToo bad, but at least we now know with certainty. Thanks for investigating. We will now need to hope for a successful outcome from Patcon's experiment with the Mustang kit.

FWIW, I made my own flap cover by gluing thin upholstery vinyl onto 1/8" open-cell foam sheet. After the two layers were joined, I traced out the pattern and cut to shape. The gasket had to be 'relieved' (undercut) a bit in the vicinity of the hinge so as to provide good closing action. Hard to describe in words, but you'll see what I'm getting after you do a trial fit. The gasket patterns that I made for the S30 HVAC system are available for download somewhere on this site (same place where the downloadable FSM's are located).

if all else fails, the part can probably be cobbled from sheet metal (24 gauge sounds about right). Trace a pattern, drill the holes for the roller, bend to shape, trial fit. Make some dimples in the fold-over to help provide some bite on the door flange (the OE part has pressed-out teeth, IIRC). Precision to +/- 0.001" is not required. Nor is concours appearance. When you're happy with the fit, temper the metal to give it some springiness. Remove the roller, heat to red-hot with a torch, and then quench in water or (preferably) oil. Prime and paint, or zinc-dip, or zinc plate before re-installing.

Your photo is a great illustration of how (and why) these parts failed in regular, daily-driver service... 5 years of driving x 1 drive/day x 1 up-down cycle/drive = 7000+ flexes through those two narrow webs of spring steel. Add additional cycles for further use by new owners over some/all of the next 35 years. 'S-N-A-P'! A junkyard piece may have already exhausted a good part of its useful life, so if you're planning on keeping your car and using it a lot, it might be a good idea to grab a spare for the driver's side door.