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qz16

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qz16 last won the day on September 1 2020

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About qz16

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    az
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    retired

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    240z

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  1. this message is for HappyZ: I have tried to responded to PM, but outlook is claiming that your server is not accepting emails from outlook's server. regards, ron
  2. ET14k - thanks - I'm still in the denial phase where I am hoping without reason that there is someway to prevent the scratch. zkars - like I dont have enough anxiety in my life - right? Having said that - I have thought about the drip rail and the fear of taking a rubber mallet to my paint caused me to work on other parts of the project until I uncovered a solution to the cracking paint syndrome. I thought I was in safe territory until I realized that I had to install the rubber window roller which is pinched on to the same door edge and then I figured out that heaven has given me two chances to chip the paint in that spot, once for the roller and then again when I pound the molding on top of it. So how do these guys with the $50k paint jobs do this? There must be someone out there that has conquered this medieval process, OR is this the step just before they put the car up on BAT? Imagine that all these $100k cars with chipped paint lurking under their chrome trim. Next time I buy a car guess where I am going to look, and if there is no cracks then I am going to finally find out how to put the trim back. If I figure out anything remotely promising I will be sure to let you know.
  3. I know here I go again - worrying about chipping paint. I am in the process of putting a door back on our project. The door is mounted and I just finished installing the window regulator and glass. Across the top of the door there is a piece of molding, chrome on one side fuzzy on the side facing the glass. It is press fitted onto the door edge. Is there some method of protecting the paint while installing the molding? Would applying tape to the edge before fitting the molding over it help? Is there a special tool to spread the molding while applying it to the door? Thanks in advance.
  4. So, I really do not have a horse in this race, and I am on thin ice because I am not trained as a mechanical engineer. To re-state the original issue I was concerned about the bare metal lying between the mounting holes pressing into the painted surface and damaging it, thus potentially allowing water to create an issue. It seems to me that this mini system (the handle, bracket, backing plate, pivots and springs ... etc) is strengthened because the bracket, AND its backing plate behind the door skin sandwich the door skin. My backyard logic would suggest that all the forces involved with lifting the handle are distributed because of the bracket and the backing plate. Again, backyard logic, if you separate the bracket from the skin it seems to me you change the mechanical system and the skin no longer supports the bracket and backing plate in the same manner, and I don't think it improves the distribution of the force involved. So, to me anything that puts air between the skin and the bracket (a washer of any type) may not be favorable. A strip of hard plastic between the door skin and the bracket sounds better than bare metal but will probably injure the softer paint surface. Again, backyard logic, the thin rubber was meant to be sacrificed to protect the paint, and allow the forces at play to remain relatively unchanged, at least in my own mind. The entire bracket surface is still in contact with the door skin. A thin piece of soft plastic might be better than rubber, because it might be more resilient against the elements, but I am not sure that it would fail before the paint. This is a fun topic because it is more complicated than it appears at first glance. If there is an ME or structural engineer out there this would be a good time to explain what is really going on. My final thought, at least for this reply, is that the bucket is 43+ years old. When we acquired it a number of systems had failed, including seals, rusted metal, ... etc. The metal under the door handle was not a problem. I also do not remember anything remarkable about the paint on either door in this area. My point is that without realizing it I may have started a red herring. The Datsun engineers must have done a pretty good job - it lasted this long.
  5. I’m not the most experienced painter, so take that into account when you read this. I am restoring a 1973 240z, changing colors so everything needed to be painted. One thing that I learned is that I am not capable of defining where rust is or is not. I wound up removing undercoating from places that I would have bet would not have rust only to reveal issues that I might have inadvertently covered up if I had not taken the time to remove the original 43 year old covering. I also learned that I could not get away with covering something unless it was completely free of dirt, oil etc. In my case I had to remove fenders anyway and once I started chiseling and using a wire wheel I could not stop. I originally was going to make it body color, but my paint color (orange) is extremely expensive, and I actually liked the blacked out look better. A friend criticized my flat black approach and he was right. I sprayed a rustoleum rubberized undercoating product over the flat black and I like the result. It actually looks better than the picture. The bucket has not gotten back on the road yet so I cant tell you how well it will hold up but it is reasonably thick and seems pretty tough. By the way I would encourage you to take a really good look at what is covering the floors inside the cabin, I had what I believe was a factory coating inside, AND the undercoating on the underside of the car. I found areas where for whatever reason: driving over a curb or a poorly placed jack, or a mean spirited rock chipped the undercoating. I think what happens is that water gets into the crack actually gets between the coating and the metal. Overtime rust is generated and for the most part concealed from most eyes. The dog leg area is notorious as is the floor pans just before the firewall, and of course where the fender meets the lower corner of the door. Free advice probably worth as much.
  6. nice to know that I am not the only over-protective wrench in the group. When I removed the door handles I noticed that the bracket had rust on it. There's nothing to prevent it and if it lays on the paint and scratches or chips it could be the perfect opportunity to create a real nightmare. I like putting the rubber over the entire surface of the bracket, drilling holes in the rubber for the studs as that well fill the holes as well. Once again, thanks for responding.
  7. I am in the midst of re-assembly of the bucket a 1973 240z. I just mounted a door and started cleaning up parts to be installed on/in it. Here is a picture of the backside of the exterior door handle. There are 2 square rubber seals that are mounted to the handle to prevent water from entering the interior of the door. I would rate mine at about a 6 out of 10. I think I may have found a place to get some but I am not sure that I want to go to the effort of taking the handle mechanism apart to install them. Any tip/experience would be appreciated. Also, as you are aware there is a metal bracket that spans the two square holes in the door. This bracket has two studs which go through the door and provide a means to mount the handle. I spent an unreasonable amount of time on bodywork and painting this car and I must admit I am not excited about butting that bracket up against my fresh paint. There were no signs of a gasket when I removed the handle. I checked with the usual suspects and they don’t list a gasket. Has anyone cut a thin piece of rubber and glued it to the handle before attaching the handle to their door. Again, I would really appreciate any advice that would protect the door.
  8. regarding the black mesh - I had used some sound deadner and removed it and that is just residue.
  9. mepiazza, regarding the hoses. I purchased them from vintage air. Yes they do mount reasonably well on the oval. The ovals have a raised piece of plastic, just a nub, that catches one or more of the steel re-enforcements in the hose. At the vent end it also mates well. I dont recall how it exactly is fastened but it is fairly obvious once you actually start to work with it.
  10. mepiazza, just looked through the thread again and found one of the images that shows the hole that I am speaking about. At the top of the above image is a rectangular silver piece of metal with two for the 4 screws that hold it visible. This covers the hole below the cowl. regards, ron
  11. mepiazza, I think you may be confused. The cowl vent that I am speaking about is not part of the vintage air system. It is the hole for the original 240z system. Fresh air entered the heater/defrost system via the cowl. There is a plate /panel between the hood and the windshield. It cover the windshield wiper motor and arms. Air entered the original heater/defrost system via a square/rectangular hole located on the passenger side. It should be visible if you have your dash out. If you dont seal off this hole - air, leaves debris, rain can enter the cabin. My dash is now installed but I can try to get an image of the area if you are unable to spot it on your car. The middle oval outlet on the vintage air system is for your middle vent located in the center of your dash. Regards, ron
  12. Thank you Steve, CanTech Z, and Jim. regards, ron
  13. qz16

    accessory relay

    Can someone confirm which relay is used for the accessories on a 1973 240z. The wiring diagram that I have been using shows 3 blue wires. The 73 service manual shows the accessory relay harness as a 3 pin harness with 3 blue wires. One of my relays has 3 wires, it is of course bad. Its part number is 25230 89914. Internet search indicates that this is for the intermittent wipers. I have upgraded my wipers and no longer use the original relay. I have a relay available that I believe is part number 25230 89924. I think this is a headlight relay. I probably could use this in place of the accessory relay, it is a 4 pin relay so I might have to jumper one of the coil wires. Power-wise it is probably acceptable. But the real question is can someone confirm the part number and/or spec on the accessory relay? Thanks.
  14. Patcon - As you know 3mm screws are fairly small. Just wanted to let you know that you were right. I could not locate wide enough pan head screws with a phillips head. But screwing a lot of small screws with an allen head wrench, sometimes in the blind, sometimes upside down is not a lot of fun. And the mere thought of doing it more than once drove me to use pan head phillips, still with a washer. Much easier to locate a hole with a magnetic tip phillips screwdriver and fiddle with an allen head. Thanks.
  15. Replacement of the Inner and outer Shift boot When I bought the bucket it did not have an inner or an outer shift boot. Replacing the inner shift boot is fairly obvious. There is a rectangular ring that surrounds the boot and holds it in place. The outer boot is soft vinyl, or leather and it slips over the gear stick. Mistake 1: I installed the center console after completing work on the center console area and everything that is involved with that like the vinyl over the trans. tunnel, choke control, fuse box lid, indicators, radio etc. It turns out to install the outer shift boot you must remove the center console so that you can press the spring clips onto the underside of the center console, seems obvious now, and it would be exceptionally obvious if I had removed the previous outer shift boot. I did not think this was going to be a particularly difficult task. I recall seeing someone hammer the clips into place to hold the boot to the backside lip of the boot hole in the center console. This proved to be way too scary for me. My center console is in pretty good shape but I suspect it is 40+ year old plastic. The new leather boot is thick and the new clips are very tight. One blow with the mallet and I put the bludgeon down and started typing. There must be a secret that I was unaware of and if I find the decoder ring or learn the secret hand shake the leather boot will be installed on the clips, it will be tight, the center console WILL NOT crack and this minor nightmare will be over. Unfortunately, a search of the forum and the internet did not provide much in the way of guidance or tips. So this post is NOT for those of you that have been successful in the past and did not think it would be valuable to document the process because it was such an easy project. I was not having much luck draping the material over the console and hammering or squeezing the clip over the boot onto the console. It seems insignificant and it may be so, but putting the leather inside the clip and then putting the clip on top of the edge of the console made a big difference, for me. It took me a while but it finally came to me. Hammering was too scary, pushing the clip into place seemed impossible. So I went to my second most popular GOTO tool. The first being the mallet and the second being a pair of vise grips. I slowly and carefully squeezed the clip over the console lip. It was easy. I cant explain why it took me so long to figure it out. Now that it is completed my memory of the task was that it was easy. I feel a bit silly posting this, but hopefully the next person to replace their outer shift boot will not have to think twice about how to go about it. One more thing. I read that you only need 6 clips. In my opinion you would be better off with eight. There is no way to get a clip over the seam and if you did the clip would be expanded to the point that I doubt it would hold very well. Below are some photos that may be useful . By the way the console did not crack -----yet!
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