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qz16 last won the day on December 1 2018

qz16 had the most liked content!

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About qz16

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  1. qz16

    license plate wire path

    i built all new harness engine bay cockpit overhead and hatch. that's why i asked you about the fuel tank to gauge piece. obviously the old harness did not have it so i did not reproduce it, so i will have to add it. regards, q
  2. qz16

    license plate wire path

    how completely stupid of me - I do have the access hole. The grommet is still there. Painted over by yours truly. I did not see it until I zoomed in on your picture and mine at the same time. Thanks very much.
  3. qz16

    license plate wire path

    CanTechZ - The two pictures you sent are worth 1000 words. Thank you very much. I have a 1973 which in most regards is quite similar to your 70. Having said that I do not have the access hole in hatch area that appears in your picture.
  4. qz16

    license plate wire path

    I am doing a complete restore and foolishly I installed the tail lights and the taillight panel without giving a thought to the license plate light. All of the interior trim is off because I am changing the color. Guess I was too in a rush to finally see some forward progress putting stuff on the car. Thanks for the quick reply.
  5. qz16

    license plate wire path

    can someone please tell me what the path is for the license plate light. How do you route wires from the hatch area harness to the light? Do I have to remove the taillight finishing panel to see an access hole? thank you.
  6. qz16

    source for upper quarter window seal

    paid the invoice for the lowers thanks
  7. qz16

    source for upper quarter window seal

    Thanks for the reply. I did order the part. regards, ron
  8. Does anyone have a source for part #1 (upper quarter window seal) in the above diagram? This part is used on all 70-78 Z coupes. I have rebuilt both quarter windows - inner and outer seal and weather strip. I have door seals. But there are two additional pieces for the quarter window an upper and lower quarter window seal. The lower (small, rectangular) piece is available. None of the usual suspects (vintage rubber, precision rubber, thezstore,, zcardepot, zcarsource) have the upper seal. Thanks in advance.
  9. So, I thought it would be a good idea to update the thread regarding the change of interior color. I must admit that I was leery of changing the color of vinyl with a paint/dye. Our vinyl was in fairly good shape and it is quite expensive to replace all of the vinyl and plastic, so I thought it would certainly be worth a try. After a reasonable amount of research, I decided to use the SEM product line. I also decided for once in my life to strictly follow SEM’s process. I had two pieces of vinyl that were damaged through exposure to the sun. But even these pieces turned out well, and I do not think it was purely due to the fact that I was going from tan to black. I think the result would have been just as good if I repainted them in the tan color. Anyway, the result was truly amazing. Every vinyl piece came out looking brand new. It is nearly impossible to tell that they have undergone a restoration and a color change. Yes, there may be a seam that if pulled when installing might show the original color. I plan to touch up these spots after I install the interior. You can avoid this possibility by spraying the back of the material at least on the seams. I did have a spot or two where there are cuts/splits in the vinyl, and one very small hole. I simply took some black vinyl and superglued it on the back of the piece. I did this for two reasons: to reinforce the area so the cut/split did not grow and in case the material was pulled during installation it would merely expose the added black vinyl. Once these areas were painted, I could not spot them easily. The plastic trim was in relatively good shape considering that it is 45+ years old. One of my rear quarter pieces had been hacked up by a previous owner who was attempting some ridiculous change to the speaker areas using a machete. A replacement panel came with the car so I used that. A few other panels had chips where material was missing. These few areas were of the 1- 2 sq. in. category. Some panels had cracks, mostly at the edge of the panel, some minor and some more considerable, but all required attention or the crack would have continued to grow. I found a product called Q-Bond. It is an interesting process. For a crack I cut a “V” groove in the back of the plastic and cleaned the area around the crack. They give you what seems to be a graphite like powder. You sprinkle the powder into the grove. Since it is primarily the back I sprinkled it liberally around the groove as well. If the crack cannot be completely closed in the front of the panel you place a piece of tape on the front covering the cracked area. I used yellow tape that I have experience with from painting a car. It sticks well, but can easily be removed and has never damaged an area that I have used it on. The graphite like material can’t fall through the crack because of the tape. Q-Bond also provides what they call super-glue. Looks just like what you buy in the hardware store. You dribble a few drops on top of the graphite that is mounded on the back of the crack. It seeps in and sets up in less than 30 seconds. I gave it a few hours and then sanded the front of the panel to insure that the filling was level with the front surface. We painted the panel with the SEM product and where it was just a crack you could not tell that anything had been done. The crack line looked like it was part of the original pattern on the plastic. Where major repair was required, I used J_B weld to fill a missing area. The J-B weld patch as well as any other areas on the front of the panel that needed to be sanded were rendered flat with no grain. I tried scribing lines with a pin in some thin putty but this wound up looking like scratches. I have read about graining pads, but I think they perform better on vinyl/leather than a hard plastic panel. I decided to use a textured paint from SEM. This will not imitate grain, but I thought it would be better than leaving it flat. You don’t have a lot of control other than varying the distance of the nozzle from your work to produce less texture. I lightly sanded the texture and tried to blend it into the original grain. I then repainted the panel to get a consistent color. Its not perfect but if you are not looking for it you can’t spot it and the panel is repaired. Where I was missing a lot of material, I added some plastic pieces cut from the panel that I replaced. I super glued these to the back of the panel I was repairing and then used JB-Weld to bring the repair level with the rest of the panel’s surface. This also worked really well. Its strong, but it is ugly. Once again, I used the texture and sanded it and then painted the entire panel. It will not pass concourse inspection but it definitely is cheaper than replacing the panel, and it is a sound repair and it is another piece of authenticity - a 45 year old piece of trim that looks pretty good. As an example this is the vinyl that covers the rear shock tower. It has been cleaned with a mild soap, and Scrubbed with a gray scotch brite pad using SEM soap. You can see signs of fading from the sun. Here is one of the shock tower vinyl sections painted. Plastic panels - this is the interior overhead where the dome light mounts in the middle. I was amazed at how nicely the plastic and the vinyl cleaned up. This is one of the rear hatch area panels. It installs behind the rear wheel. It had some cracking and it also had a missing section around one of the mounting holes. The first picture shows all of the repair work - cracks at edges and the missing section around one of the mounting holes. The picture below show the panel after paint has been applied. You can see the patch area. The only issue with this panel is the total lack of grain in the repair area. It was noticeable and so I pushed on. Here is the my first crude attempt at trying to see if I could imprint some grain. This looks awful here but it was even worse when color was applied. The next picture is of the panel with everything having been sanded. It has the benefit of the texture paint having been applied, and color over that. The rest of the plastic and vinyl came out even better and I was very satisfied that we were able to save so much of the original car. Can't wait to see all of the vinyl and the trim panels go back in the car. Unfortunately, I completely rewired all of my electrical harness, and don't want to assemble the interior until after I test everything. Testing the harness is waiting on a new dash. Early on in the restoration I tried repairing the dash, but it crumbled and my total lack of expertise inspired me to try wrapping the skeleton with vinyl. Twice I thought I was going to get away with it but alas the speedometer and the tachometer wells could not be done by me to my satisfaction. I then searched for someone in need of some extra cash but every shop that I went to said that it was so difficult that they would have to charge enough to fund their son's first year at Harvard. Next step on the road to wasting a fortune was a full cap. I would have stuck with the cap, but this car is for my son, and I worried that the cap would not do well in the cold climate that he lives in. The overall restoration is coming out pretty good and to be honest the cap just didn't match what we were able to achieve with the rest of the car. I am currently on a wait list for a replacement dash pad. products that we used: 1. Gray Scotch Brite pads 2. Dawn dish soap 3. SEM Soap 4. Vinyl/leather prep or plastic Prep 5. SEM Sand Free (adhesion promoter) 6. SEM Color Coat Satin Black 7. Q-Bond 8. J-B Weld The following URL is valuable in terms of a reference for the SEM products that you will need and the overall process. https://www.semproducts.com/product/color-coattm-mixing-system/system#product-videos I suggest you watch the video. I also watched this video. Their humor is a bit tiring but I found it before the SEM youtube and it encouraged me to give it a try. episode 128 Dyeing Door Panels and dash pads Autorestomod. Bottom line: If you are thinking about refreshing your plastic interior trim or your vinyl – DO NOT hesitate The SEM process works, at least if you diligently follow their instructions. They have a complete line of colors and you can even mix a color to match something. If you have plastic that needs repair within reason you can successfully restore your plastic panel cracks with Q-Bond. I am sure that there are other products out there that work just as well but I have not tried them and because these have worked so well for me I probably will not experiment with anything else in the future. The one thing that I do want to try is grain imprinting using those grain pads. Hope this helps.
  10. qz16

    vintage dashes 280z

    First, I wanted to thank those of you that responded regarding vintage dashes and the 240z. I also wanted to give you an update. I was able to connect with the vintage dash people. They are for real. They have developed multiple products. They are different than many vendors that I have dealt with in the past, namely they are very serious about producing a quality product. They appear to be very ethical. They decided not to take deposits in advance, unless they had product on the shelf. Quite admirable when you think about it. For whatever reason they were having a manufacturing issue with their mold. What they described to me was (in my opinion) a couple of minor aesthetic flaws. They believe that this situation is resolved and expect to have 240 product within 4-5 weeks. They do keep a list of customers that have requested product. My understanding is that it is based on emails that they receive. I believe that originally they were requesting a deposit, but as I said earlier they stopped that practice. So if you contacted them by email you are apart of their request list even if you did not provide a deposit. My understanding is that in the very near future they will be reviewing this list and contacting customers to validate interest. "Whee" is correct - a little more patience will be required.
  11. qz16

    vintage dashes 280z

    thanks for the advice
  12. qz16

    vintage dashes 280z

    thanks for responding. what is the definition of placing an order? i have emailed and spoken by phone but they would not accept any money, not even a deposit. i am supposedly on a list, but no idea of how close that puts me to a dash. just getting frustrated.
  13. qz16

    vintage dashes 280z

    Does anyone have a solid understanding of whether or not vintage dashes is a real business? I have been trying to get a 240z dash since 9/13/18. My understanding is that these are stand-up guys that can be trusted. They supposedly produce a good quality product, but they do not make it easy to understand when they might be able to provide it. If anyone has any information I would certainly appreciate it. If it is not available then I need to go in a different direction with my project. I understand that they are now making progress on supplying a 280z version, have they given up on the 240z? Thanks for your assistance
  14. I was asked to regenerate the parts list order/s required for the install of the vintage air mini gen II. Below is the information for the mock-up box that vintage air loans out to help customers understand the size of the package that has to be installed inside the car. It helps you understand where to put the evaporator and hose connections. I cotacted vintage air and this was the info that they gave me. I decided that in my case it would not be necessary to actually mock-up the install. I was confident that I could get everything to fit based on other installs that I had read about. I would add that vintage air was responsive and helpful. “The shipping box measures 26 x 20 x 20. The evaporator assembly measures 11" high by 11.5" wide x 8.5" deep and will sit up against the firewall and a small portion of the bottom of the unit will sit down below the bottom of the dash. You would see about 2" to 3" of the bottom of the case. The switch kit we have for this system is separate from the original and can be placed under the steering wheel or in the console out of site. You can go to our web site at autoacsolutions.com and to to instructions for more on installation of the system. Click onto our indash a/c instructions. If we can be of more assistance let me know. I will be working messages off and on through the weekend and will try to answer as soon as possible.” The only disappointment that I had with Vintage air was that they could make it a great deal easier to order a complete system. I would suggest that they spend some time reading some of the different popular forums searching for reasonably good installs and create a parts list for some of the popular classic installs. Obviously, it would be nice to place a single perfect order that contains everything you would need. I have been able to do this a couple of times. Sadly, this was not one of those times. Below is the first order that I placed. The error of my ways is immediately apparent: I did not use the Horizontal slide panel. I did use the York to sanden conversion bracket – but I have heard that there are better solutions out there. I used vintage air’s ez-clip kit. I also purchased their plier which I think is well worth the expense. It was easy to use. It allowed me to create the customized hose routing that I wanted. I am still in the throws of restoring my car so I do not have any experience with the quality of this connection system, but I have high hopes that it will not leak. I liked the idea of using the bulkhead connectors and so I bought two. One for the AC hoses and one for the heater hoses. If I had to do it again, I might separate the hoses a bit more; just to make it easier to connect the hoses. The bottom line is don’t get ahead of yourself. Order what you need. As best I could tell there is no discount for larger orders with the exception of shipping cost. 66005-VUZ-A MINI GEN II W/DEF EA 1.00 0.00 470.00 470.00 main unit (heater/def/AC) inside car 49110-SHQ HORIZ SLIDE PANEL (MACHINED) EA 1.00 0.00 75.00 75.00 slide controls 63375-VUE DEFROSTER DUCTS (SET) EA 1.00 0.00 19.95 19.95 04808-VUQ SD-508 POL COMP O-RING 134a EA 1.00 0.00 249.00 249.00 compressor 15815-VUB YORK TO SANDEN CONVERSION KIT EA 1.00 0.00 60.00 60.00 conversion bracket to mount compressor 547002 HOSE KIT,E-Z CLIP UNIVERSAL EA 1.00 0.00 360.00 360.00 clip kit (hoses+connectors) 420000-VUR EZ CLIP PLIERS EA 1.00 0.00 78.00 78.00 tool to install ez-clips 07323-VUC DRIER W/TRINARY SWITCH EA 1.00 0.00 59.00 59.00 drier 389602 STRM 2 WAY INLINE BKHD #6-#10 BLK EA 1.00 0.00 44.00 44.00 bulkhead connector /bracket (AC) 389803 STRM 2 WAY INLINE BKHD #10-#10 BLK EA 1.00 0.00 44.00 44.00 bulkhead connector / bracket (water inlet/egress for heater) 03263-VUC PARALLEL FLOW COND 14 X 24 W/BRKTS EA 1.00 0.00 149.00 149.00 condenser (to cool air before drier and return to evap) My second order was just foolish. Do not order hose connectors until you really understand your hose routing. In my opinion this is not possible until everything else is installed. With regards to the connections inside the car. My install works but, it would have been a lot easier for me if I had realized how little room there is in the cockpit. If you understand how difficult it is to make bends with these hoses and how much room you need to actually tighten the connectors then placement of the bulkhead connectors can be improved. This influences the selection of connector style (90 deg., 45 deg. straight, etc) I ordered a number of incorrect connectors. 347160-VUR EZ CLIP #6 STRAIGHT EA 4.00 0.00 17.00 68.00 AC and water connectors 347100-VUR EZ CLIP #10 STRAIGHT EA 1.00 0.00 19.10 19.10 347200-VUR EZ CLIP #10 45 DEGREE EA 1.00 0.00 24.50 24.50 347180-VUR EZ CLIP #8 STRAIGHT EA 4.00 0.00 16.00 64.00 347380-VUR EZ CLIP #8 90 DEGREE EA 2.00 0.00 18.25 36.50 318000-VUR EZ CLIP AC HOSE #10 PER FOOT FT 8.00 0.00 5.75 46.00 347962-VUR EZ CLIP #6 CLIP EA 8.00 0.00 0.60 4.80 347960-VUR CLIP #6 CAGE EA 4.00 0.00 1.05 4.20 347902-VUR EZ CLIP #10 CLIP EA 4.00 0.00 0.65 2.60 347900-VUR CLIP #10 CAGE EA 2.00 0.00 1.40 2.80 347982-VUR EZ CLIP #8 CLIP EA 12.00 0.00 0.60 7.20 347980-VUR CLIP #8 CAGE EA 6.00 0.00 1.15 6.90 Third order: 347260-VUR EZ CLIP #6 45 DEGREE EA 1.00 0.00 20.00 20.00 more AC /water connectors and clips 347300-VUR EZ CLIP #10 90 DEGREE EA 2.00 0.00 19.75 39.50 347900-VUR CLIP #10 CAGE EA 2.00 0.00 1.40 2.80 347902-VUR EZ CLIP #10 CLIP EA 8.00 0.00 0.65 5.20 347960-VUR CLIP #6 CAGE EA 1.00 0.00 1.05 1.05 347962-VUR EZ CLIP #6 CLIP EA 2.00 0.00 0.60 1.20 121018 HARDLINE 90 HEATER FITTING EA 2.00 0.00 7.00 14.00 121004 HARDLINE STR HEATER FITTING EA 2.00 0.00 7.00 14.00 The final order that I placed was for controls so that I could use the original 240z climate control panel. 11458-VUS SWITCH 3 SPEED BLOWER ROTARY EA 1.00 0.00 11.25 11.25 knobs I needed to use orig. 240z control panel 49457-VUI KNOB CONTROL (ROTARY) EA 1.00 0.00 1.50 1.50 20558-VUP LABEL BLOWER SWITCH EA 1.00 0.00 3.00 3.00 I know some of you will be interested in the total cost of the install. I made a few mistakes that were somewhat costly. And the total cost of these orders also includes the EZ-clip system and plier and extra parts. So, if you add all of the figures the total is approximately $2154. I would estimate that there is approximately $300 worth of material that I did not need or use (panel, bracket, hose connectors ..etc) There is a $75 plier. I did not calculate the additional charge for the ez-clip system. The reason I bring this up is to be fair to vintage air regarding cost. If you compare the price of their system to another vendor make sure that you are comparing equivalent systems. Given the additional information/experience that I have at this point I would make the same choice and go with Vintage Air. I hope this helps and if you have a question, I will try to answer it.
  15. Patcon, thanks for the comment - I am not trying to be coy its just that sometimes on forums the topic at hand morphs into commentary on who likes what manufacturer. Anyway, I did not know what to buy and decided to go with a brand that I have used before. My base and clear coat are PPG deltron, very pricey stuff - not sure if it is worth it or not. For the epoxy primer I went with PPG OMNI MP 17x series. I have read and seen a number of complaints and stories about difficult to spray, gummy, etc. I have nothing but good things to say about the product but that is not based on a ton of experience. It sprayed great, It looks fabulous - but it is primer. No orange peel, no problems with gassing off too slow or too fast. It appears to be somewhat self leveling. I put two coats on. My primer gun is an air gunsa AZ3 with 1.8 HTE tip. Sometimes people blame the product when it is a skill issue, or equipment issue, or setup issue. I'm at the point that its just easier to blame me. I have heard good things about Nason products. Based on your comment that you sand everything I assume you are using an etching product or a water based product like rust dissolver. I think you are correct as long as you wash down the panel and dry them thoroughly the chemicals work great. I have come to the conclusion that the only time to use rust converter type products is for place you just cant get to very easily, like the bowel of a rocker panel, or into the fold of a fender. And in these types of situations it is more of a wing and a prayer for areas that you cant see the rust. This morning I tore into a fender that I had used rust converter on a year ago. I did this because I saw a pinhole in what was good metal a year ago. I kept hacking away trying to get to clean metal and what I found was that the converter had worked on one piece but a second piece that was sandwiched to it showed no sign of reform. The rust was fresh and active. So today I am less of a fan of rust reformer/converter than I was 48 hours ago. I am just a DIY guy and so it is a bit of a production to switch from mechanical work to bodywork to paint, so like you I am not able to put paint on the same day that something gets stripped, unless I was going to rattle can it. I am not sure what is best - to use the etch and let it dry to protect the piece until you can get to it or to deal with the rust if you are unlucky and it does form. I have very little control over the climate in my garage, so I will not spray below about 55 deg. and never even tried above 40% humidity. I am lucky though I live in phoenix so temperature and humidity favor me most of the year. Biggest problem I have is very quick drying when the temps are high. Turns out that most of the time when I do something foolish I just need to lick my wounds, the right answer to my mistakes rarely turns out to be an easy or quick solution. But I will not make this one again. Once again, thanks for the response. regards, ron

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