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About qz16

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qz16 last won the day on September 1 2020

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  1. chuck - thanks for the information. Now I understand why they added the extra screws to the 260z/280z. Can't figure out why they thought adhesive was good enough to hold the upper and lower seals on a 240z, and require screws and a metal strip to hold the center of the 260z/280z in place. I think the best thing for me to do is to use the original upper and lower, quarter seals, and then if I don't like the aesthetics to put a weather strip between them held by adhesive, making sure that it is thin enough not to rub against the door sash. Really do appreciate the information - thanks.
  2. heyitsrama - Thanks for the response. I have the 1970-1973 version and you are correct it does not cover much of the area. I did not know that there was an available 260z, 280z version - thank you. It looks like it will cover the length of the front quarter glass frame. Interestingly enough MSA has the following note about the 260-280z version: Note: This weatherstrip can commonly be found installed on 240Z's, although it was never installed from the factory. You will need to locate screws and drill holes in your quarter window frame if you want to add these to your 240Z. I'm not thrilled at the thought of drilling the extra holes into the quarter window frame, and I don't understand why they don't rely on adhesive to hold the seal in place, unless it is so thick that it rubs against the door sash when you close the door. Perhaps you could answer that question - how thick is the weatherstrip, and does it rub when you close your door? Thanks again for the response.
  3. I have a 1973 240z and I am looking for an outlet to purchase the weatherstip that goes on the outside of the quarter glass. This would fit between the Door Sash and the quarter window and be mounted on the quarter window. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  4. Glad it turned out to be nothing serious. zkars is correct your latch is quite different than my 240z. Sorry to mislead you. I also learned a trick from Zed Head which was worth the price of admission to this thread.
  5. The gaps look pretty good. Before replacing it I would suggest that you soak it in something to see if that resolves the issue. Maybe we are overthinking it. Perhaps it is as simple as just being gummed up or suffering from overspray. Just curious - when you adjusted your striker (on the body side of the door frame) did you ever try rotating it. By this I mean holding its top position (single screw) and pushing the bottom clockwise (toward the door). If you can't move the striker clockwise then push the top screw in towards the interior just a bit. I would also check the wear on the striker. Don't mean to be just creating work for you, but please continue to post your progress. Hope you are able to solve it quickly. regards, ron
  6. One more thing - It's hard to tell but in the first picture it looks like the door is hung with the rear bottom corner a bit low. You might check the entire door frame and the bottom of the door for scratches.
  7. If it isn't too much trouble could you post pictures of the entire door to see all of the gaps. Also, post a picture of the B pillar to see the lock and the dovetail, and the door side of the striker as well. In the past has the door closed properly? If so, has there been any recent work on the door? Have you changed the hinge positions? With you sitting in the car can you determine if anything is making contact and preventing the door from closing? With the weatherstrip removed there should be some space all around the door, including the door bottom. Is the door sash (window frame) hitting the door frame? There is a door seal mounted (with three plastic retainers on the top front of the door, is there contact in this area with the frame?
  8. I Have installed a few windows in British cars and this is my second opportunity with a 240Z. So, I don’t have a tremendous amount of experience, but I think this will provide a bit more detail that may help you. Outlined below is a procedure that worked well for me and I hope will help you. Please feel free to correct/improve the process for the next guy. Door Glass Install Install the outside rear view mirror. I installed insulation and sound deadener. I think this helps with noise and temperature control and it also gives the door a bit of added weight improving the feel of the door. I put white lithium grease on the rollers and channels, and on just about anything else that moved before installing anything. I installed the door locking mechanism, and all of its associated parts exterior door handle, key lock, and interior door handle. I removed the door sash (frame/channel that surrounds the glass) to make it easier. I installed the window regulator. To move the regulator I attached a vise grip to the knurled winder mechanism, be careful not to crush the grooves. At this point my troubles began. From what I read I thought that the front sash (front channel about 12 inches long) and the guide channel were supposed to be installed. I tried installing the glass by reversing what the service manual describes for removing the glass. Tilting it and sliding the front roller into its channel. I wasted hours and lost ½ a pint of blood and got nowhere. When the front roller was in the channel it would come out as I tried to install the rear roller, or the front sash guide. So, I walked away had a cup of coffee and decided to take a look at the entire mechanism. I was alone on this task so it is easy to get worn out hunched, and holding the glass, etc. Here is what I came up with and the glass was installed in less than 30 minutes. The first (6) six steps are valid and was my starting point. The front sash (approximately 12 inch long channel for the plastic slide at the front of the glass) and the guide channel (approximately 4 inch channel mid door toward the door lock) are not installed at this point. I think this would be a good time to remind you that you should install the outside rear view window before going any further. It’s painful to do it after installing the glass, don’t ask how I know that it is painful. Getting the window into the car can be tricky. The manual suggests: front first and down on an angle. If you are concerned about your paint I would protect it with at least a strip of tape on all edges of the door. Watch the outside of the window as it enters the door as there are screws (at the front tip of the window where the slide is located), that can get hung up on the door. The window sits closest to the door skin, in between the skin and the window regulator. At this point I re-installed the window sash with one screw in each or the two top corners. There are 3 rollers. Two of the rollers face the window. One faces the interior of the car. One of the two rollers that face the window will be on your left as you face the interior of the door. The 2nd roller will be on your right. The right most roller is mounted on an arm that has the third roller (facing the interior of the car) attached at the opposite end of the arm. This roller (facing the interior of the car) should be sitting down, toward the bottom of the door, before you try to install either of the other rollers. If it is not in this position it will be more difficult to position it later on because it will get hung up on the regulator and the interior door sheet metal. Seating the regulator rollers into the window channel Wind the regulator almost all the way down. Now slowly wind the regulator up and watch the rear channel, toward the door lock. I believe this step is easier if this roller enters the channel from the right side (nearest to the door hinge) of the channel. When it is close to the regulator roller slide the glass forward or back to allow the roller to enter the channel. Once the roller is in place slide the glass a bit more to insure that the roller stays in the channel. Slowly wind the regulator almost to the bottom of the door. I believe this step is easier if this 2nd roller enters its channel from the left side of the channel, nearest the door lock. Remember the third roller must be lower than the other two rollers. Watch the front channel of the glass. When it is close to the level of the regulator front roller stop and move the glass forward toward the door hinge, make sure you don’t move the glass so much that the first roller comes out of its channel. Push the roller into the channel and slide the glass toward the rear (toward the door lock) to keep the roller in the channel. To move the roller toward the channel you might try pushing down on the opposite side of the arm where the 3rd roller is located. You might also need to grab the glass and move it forward (toward the door hinge) corner up toward the top of the door. Slowly wind the regulator up about half way, when the remaining roller is accessible slide the guide channel on to the roller. Move the guide channel toward its mounting holes to get the guide studs in position. You may need to wind the regulator up or down slightly to get the guide channel studs to their mounting holes in the door. When one is in the hole place a nut on it to insure that it stays put. By winding the window up/down you should be able to manipulate the guide channel’s 2nd stud into its mounting hole. Now from the top (right side facing the door interior) push the front sash down and guide it onto the plastic window slide. Push it down and move the window to the front or rear so you can place the screws through the door and into the front sash. Tighten (finger tight) everything and using the window regulator roll the window up and down. If everything is moving smoothly then tighten everything and bandage any wounds.
  9. To finish off this topic I would like to show you what I did with your assistance. I searched under the dash for any kind of mounting hole, but alas there were none. I suspect that originally there was a bracket that mounted inside the dash and drove the reset cable/spindle vertically downward through the bottom of the dash. I have removed my dash a number of times for various reasons, but have no intention of doing it again unless it is absolutely necessary. This issue does not meet that bar. So, based on your assistance I came up with the following solution. I created a bracket that allowed the spindle to turn freely. The “C” clip at the back prevent the spindle from moving forward in the bracket. The knob, when I find one that fits will prevent the spinde from moving rearward out of the bracket.s The bracket had to be long enough to extend far enough below the dash line so that it would be accessible. The bracket I made is perhaps a bit too small in that it may be difficult to g it is definitely out of the way, and it does reset the trip odometer. So, thank you again, this is one more item on my tick list that is put to bed.
  10. Terrapin Z- Thanks. I will first search for the original hole in the dash and give it a try. If it works it will be much easier that I thought. Appreciate your effort.
  11. Siteunseen - The link to the removal was an education on taking the cable out of the speedometer and fixing one that would not reset correctly. Thank you. SteveJ - You bet the picture helps. Actually, I needed both Situnseen's URL and SteevJ's photo to figure out what to do. I don't think the cable can go in from the front because the largest (diameter) is the the end that the knob attaches to. So I think the right way to do this is to remove the cable from the speedometer head. Put it through the dash and reconnect it to the speedometer. Slip a "c" clip into the groove behind the dash and then slip another "C" clip into the groove on the front of the dash. Of course, from time to time I have departed from what was the correct way and I may have to do that in this case. If my dash thickness is different than the original I may not be able to get the clips on both sides. So I may just make a small panel to be mounted below the dash; that way I can control the issue of the thickness of the panel by using washers between the back of the panel and the "C" clip. Anyway, thanks to both of you. ron
  12. Would appreciate some help regarding the mounting of the odometer reset switch. The car is a 1973 240z. The dash has been replaced and one of the last two things to find a home is the odometer reset. It is a long shaft without threads and there are some grooves on the shaft that make me think there must have been some sort of a pressure clip. The grooves are set back from where a knob might be attached. Here is a picture of what I have. If you could take a snapshot of the mechanical fastener, or know what it is called It would be a big help. Thanks .
  13. So, I took a few snap shots from the service manual: top right corner depicts the 4 connector blocks that are tied together. Pin out detail is on right. Below is a lamenated schematic that I think I got from Bonzai Auto works Hope it helps. Let me know if I can help.
  14. I have a 1973 so I am not sure that your set up is exactly the same as mine. Having said that, I believe up under the passenger side you will see a bank of connector blocks. Your wire harness is separated into a few pieces. If memory serves me there are 4 larger connectors with 10 pins in each. There is a also a few individual connectors. The 4 larger connector blocks (black white green and blue) connect the dashboard or instrument harness, hatch area harness, to the engine harness. The relays for things like the horns, and wipers are located on the passenger kick panel and are connected with individual connectors. There is also an “L” shaped connector that connects the hazard relay. Another for the main power from the battery to the fuse block. Can’t remember other detail at this moment. Anyway, I would start by taking copious notes and labeling the various individual connectors, and I would disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected until the issue is resolved. Write down the order of the 4 larger connectors, they are colored and I believe keyed. I think there is a good chance that the problem is one of the relays, but that is just a guess from some of the things that you posted. Don't conclude anything based on guesses. You can troubleshoot this to the point where you can eliminate the actual issue, and not waste time or money replacing items that are not damaged. After labeling all of the connectors I would disconnect them from the engine harness and see if the short still exists. If it is gone than reconnect one connector at a time to determine which harness has the issue. If the short is not removed then I would disconnect the individual connectors. If everything is disconnected and you still have an issue then the problem is likely to be in the engine compartment. I say likely because there is always the possibility that a previous owner has added or modified something. Once you figure out which area has the issue then I would get a schematic and track it down. I have a laminated schematic in the garage and will post a picture when I can, a bit later today. If you do not have a meter or short detector you need to buy one, you can get something fairly inexpensive. You may be overwhelmed, frustrated and confused right now. Electrical systems are similar to plumbing, without some of the sloppy mess. Go slow, take your time do one thing at a time and draw a conclusion. If your not sure post the question. Write down what you are doing and what the results are so the forum can help you. It may take a while but you will get through it.
  15. So, I have 1973 240z - not aware of any differences that would affect these measurements. Across the radiator support your image #3 -39 3/4 in. Your image #1 - 39 5/16" Your image #2 - 39 1/2" If this satisfies you - great - If you need really accurate measurements then let me know and I will dig out the laser and get some batteries in it. edit: Okay so I went back with the laser: your image #1 measured 39 5/16" your image #2 measured 39 1/2" your image #3 measured 39 3/4" now realize: my hood is attached and generally aligned my fenders are not fastened to the body my grill, bumper, and valence are not mounted Hope this helps Just curious what issue are you trying to resolve?
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