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qz16 last won the day on December 1 2018

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  1. Steve, That is a great point. I built a new harness and upgraded all of the wiring, thats what I am testing now. But lowering the fuse values is something that i missed. I installed relays and so I can do that in a couple of spots. I also removed the heater/defroster and AC and replaced it with a vintage air unit, so there is some wiring that is no longer active, as well. My original wiring was kindling. I agree with your suggestion on the 3 gauge set. When the white LEDs arrive I will give them a try. Regards, ron
  2. So some of the LEDs (SteveJs suggestion -thanks) that I ordered, came early, the clear version is (as luck would have it) still not scheduled to arrive until 4/21. I tried the red version (brake Light Failure) and the green version (turn signals) and you have to be patient - there is no abundance of clearance when installing the LED into the socket, but it fits. I then plugged the sockets into the respective holes. They install as they should and you will have no trouble with them bottoming out in the gauge causing the socket to become dislodged due to vibration ...etc. I was going to wait for the clear to finish this portion of the dash effort, but I am not the most patient person and I noticed all of the socket holes have green filters. I ordered 10 green and used two. I need 7 to light the tach, speedometer, and the 3 gauge set. I decided to populate the remaining 7 with the green LEDs. Could not stand not knowing what it would look like so I wired the lights to a battery. Yes the dash is upside down as I am testing the harness. And yes the gauge faces have a fair amount of dust on them but you get the idea. The wiring on this car separated the 3 gauge set lights from the speedometer and the tach with regard to the dimmer. When I was redoing the harness I tied all 7 bulbs to the same ear on the dimmer - so they all dim at the same rate. So these LEDs are a lot brighter than the incandescents. If they are too bright I can dim them down. I don't recall anyone ever claiming that the z gauge incandescent lights were overly bright. Once again, thanks SteveJ - I appreciate the help. regards, ron
  3. Gundee, Thanks for responding. I am sorry to be the bearer of mixed news. The URL that you sent has a 360 deg view button, one of images is a dimension view. This is the url for that dimension view. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/. I have some of these and I believe that they fit in the speedometer and tach (will check if you need me to), but they do not fit in the gauges - oil temp, amp fuel or clock. As you can see the length is 26 mm for this bulb. The length of the bulb listed by SteveJ is 18 mm and I believe it will fit everything. ps 1 (3/23/20) I just checked and the 26 mm does fit in the speedometer and the tach. ps 2 (3/24/20) sorry to do this but I did not want to mislead anyone. I was working on the harness in my dash, and inadvertently put just the slightest amount of tension on one of the bulbs for the speedometer. It came out of its socket. So it turns out that the 26 mm LEDs do in fact hit the green lens inside the speedometer and the tach. I was fooled because one of the bulbs seemed tight enough, but it would be a mistake, in my opinion, to use the 26 mm bulbs anywhere on the dash. So to tie a bow around this the original incandescent length is approximately 20 mm. The alternative that SteveJ has suggested (thanks again) is 18 mm. There is one more critical dimension. There are 2 posts that extend out of the barrel of the bulb. they provide a key/locking scheme to keep the bulb in the socket. I apologize if I am confusing anyone. Anyway, on the suggested alternative there is a collar. That collar is no doubt larger than the socket, so the distance from the post on the barrel to the collar could be, likely is, critical if it is too short then you will not be able to get the bulb in the socket. This dimension is not available, so I cant be certain that the alternative will work. I will update this when I get the bulbs that I ordered. Sorry for the confusion. regards, ron
  4. Thanks Steve and Chuck. I will give them a try and confirm. Unfortunately it will take a while since they will not deliver to me until 4/21. regards, ron
  5. So, I am replacing the dash on a 1973 240z. In the process of putting everything back together I tested the bulbs for the gauges. I believe they are mini bayonet BA9s 1445. This is a 3.4 W incandescent bulb. I think that is a lot of power (watts = volts X current) for so little light. Anyway, I was curious if anyone has a direct LED replacement for the mini 1445. The version that I have fits some of the enclosures eg. the speedometer and tach, but are too tall for the gauges and the clock. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  6. Thanks for getting back. Makes perfect sense. Appreciate the insight as I have not previously installed a windshield. regards, ron
  7. Grannyknot, I am also restoring a '73 240z and I too have begun to re-install my interior. You have been a big help to me in the past. Having said that I was curious why you recommend installing the windshield before installing the dash. Thanks.
  8. okay, so you asked if anyone tried to remove the strip from the card. I tried heat, but chickened out quickly because I was concerned about melting the 45+ year old vinyl. My door cards and vinyl were in very good shape, with the exception of the strip. I really did not want to take a chance on ruining the vinyl. I was going to change the color of my vinyl and decided to go with the SEM spray for the vinyl and the Spaz Stix for the strip. The picture below shows what I was able to achieve. If you are retaining the current color of your vinyl then the problem is a bit easier as you only have to tape the vinyl tight to the strip. One word of advice the chrome spray is pretty good but not great. Your results are improved if the surface is really smooth, so dont sand, there is no paper that is really fine enough, but you do need to remove anything that is loose on the surface of the strip. I am not trying to discourage you from trying to remove the strip. I am concerned about getting the area hot enough to separate the strip from the vinyl without melting the vinyl. Best of luck.
  9. Hardway, I just wanted to thank you for addressing the issue regarding the images. It's a big help. regards, ron
  10. Hardway, Thanks for the effort. Its Christmas, there is no rush. When their site comes up we will have the images. Thanks again and Happy Holidays
  11. I am starting to rebuild my 240z seats and I remember seeing an article by hardway - which is in the knowledge base. There are a number of pictures which prove to be helpful. Unfortunately I did not print out a copy when I looked at it the last time. When I bring the article up where thepictures are supposed to be is a message saying that they are "not available". double click the picture below to go to the article and see the missing images. Can someone explain if there is a temporary problem with the website or is it an issue with my laptop settings...etc. Thanks in advance for your assistance. regards, qz16
  12. I agree removal of the strip is a very bad idea. I am going to prep the card, use the SEM spray system and then finally mask the card and spray the strip with spaz stix spray on chrome. I believe the SEM finish will handle the tape for masking better than the spray chrome. I will insure that everything is fully cured before using any masking tape. I dont think that a tape line will be apparent when the job is complete. Thanks again for the help regards, q
  13. First of all thanks for the responses. Secondly I have some experience with the SEM product line and everything (plastic and vinyl) has been completed ( repairs to plastic and vinyl as well as the color change. The SEM product line is amazing and everything turned out beautiful. The only alternative, albeit destructive, that I can come up with is hope that the vinyl under the strip has not adhered to the card, cut through the vinyl around the plastic strip and gently scrape out the strip still attached to the underlying vinyl. Then you would have to find a chrome strip that is a bit wider than the original to cover up the damage. I believe they sell replacements for this strip but do not know if they are wider than the original. Another alternative is to mask it, but the chrome strip is no longer really chrome looking, it looks almost midnight blue, so rather than mask the strip, mask the card around the strip and use SEM plastic prep on the strip, and then remove the mask and paint the entire card with black SEM color coat. When i decide which route to take I will update this post. Once again thanks for the help.
  14. The car that we are working on is a1973 240z. Door cards are in good shape but I need to clean and covert them from tan to black. There is a chrome strip 3-4 inches below the top of the door card. I am told that this accent is plastic. I do not want to replace the vinyl on the door card but would like to remove and replace the chrome strip. How does one go about removing this strip and not marring or destroying the vinyl. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  15. Well, I primed the door both sides at the same time but it was hung in a weird position with wire. I don't think anything other than coverage is important with regard to primer. I hand block everything before applying color. So, there is primer under the washer. My plan was to spot repair that area when i take it off the rack. I may even wait until after the door is hung. I have not found a way to avoid some nicks and scratches during the assembly stage so touch up is just a part of the process. Aesthetically the washers and the latch will probably hide this defect effectively. But thanks I forgot to mention that issue and the novice painter might not realize that the area would need touch up at some point. Good catch.